Is it possible to crash into a plastic fan pipe. How to make a tie-in into a sewer pipe - proven methods from the master

In some cases, it is necessary to make a connection to the sewer section of a separate outlet. The specifics of the process depend on the material, the available accessories and the type of system. Note that it is necessary to make a tie-in into the sewer pipe only in accordance with the technology used, only in this case it is possible to guarantee the quality of the connection and its long-term operation without the need for repair. If you do the work in accordance with the requirements and instructions, this is quite within the power of a beginner and a person without experience.

Cutting into a metal pipe

Depending on the time of laying the sewer, the materials used may differ. Old sewer systems are made of metal carriers, the connection to which is carried out in a physical way. In other words, the metal is cut and an additional outlet is added by welding (including cold welding) or through a tee.

This is the so-called economy option for systems that are in good condition. If the area is severely damaged by rust or dirty, it makes sense to change the entire pipeline along with the connection.

From the quite obvious advice, let's get down to business - we will reveal the question of how a tie-in is made into a cast-iron sewer pipe. In practice, it is not uncommon not only to crash, but to connect the pipeline with the metal-plastic section. In practice, the reliability of such work leaves much to be desired. At the same time, materials are proposed that can effectively join metal materials and "plastic". Let's talk about connecting to the sewer pipe.

For these purposes, a mortise clamp is used, which is an adapter between a diameter of 110 mm and the selected size. Mortise clamps are sold in a wide range and allow you to go to almost any diameter. The accessory is selected depending on the type of sewage, there are models that allow you to cut under pressure.

For domestic needs, the usual flange version is suitable. It securely holds the connection and does not require routine inspection. If site repair is also required, use an overlay model.

Instruction:

1. Remove rust from the area.
2. Drill a hole of the required diameter.
3. Install the clamp.
4. Tighten the nuts simultaneously and evenly.

A similar job can be done with a coupler saddle. This is a reliable, albeit more expensive mount. If you do not want to incur costs, make an insert with the transition to "plastic". At the same time, mortise couplings and saddles will provide a high-quality and most durable insert that does not require repair during the entire service life. They are applicable, including for wells.

There are products of Russian and foreign manufacturers on the market. The recommendations of many masters relate to Jimten slip-on couplings, which provide the required quality of connection at a fairly low price.

Insert into a cast-iron pipe with a transition to a section of plastic

The sequence of work on connecting to a cast-iron pipe with a high-quality transition to a new section:

• This is how the connection to systems of standard sizes is made, the diameter of the sewer section, respectively, is 110 mm. Drilling a hole in this case with a “crown” is laborious, so we recommend marking and cutting crosswise with a grinder, then remove the internal connection segments. The hole will turn out in the form of a rhombus, but this does not interfere with the quality of the work.
• Further, fastening is done using unigum mastic or similar, a layer up to 5 mm thick, 3-5 cm wide is applied around the hole.
• If there is no jimten drain, it can be cut out of a plastic sewer element with a 50 mm adapter.
• The cuff is attached to the mastic. Tighten it with clamps.

The proposed method provides a reliable and aesthetic solution to the problem of the transition between the old and new section of the PVC sewer. It is recommended by experts for open areas, for example, to connect with a sun lounger in the basement. Such a connection should be checked periodically, although the materials used guarantee a durable fastening that does not require additional maintenance.

Inserting into the plastic area and fixing with glue

Instructions for connecting to PVC:

1. Determine the center of the hole with the adapter you will be using. Note that inserts are often made with a smaller diameter than the classic sewer size of 110 mm. For washing machines, bathtubs, washbasins, 50 mm is enough.
2. Using a special nozzle with a diameter of 50 mm, make a hole with a drill.
3. Clean up the hole with a paper cutter or other sharp object.
4. Be sure to carefully remove dust and dirt afterwards.
5. Degrease the surface with adhesive sealant.
6. Mark the contours of the lining on the base with a pencil.
7. Apply special adhesive sealant to the outer surface in two passes.
8. Also apply adhesive sealant to the part, along the contour from the inside.
9. Connect the pipeline and the part together.
10. Secure temporarily with masking tape.
11. Apply glue to the inner surface of the outlet in the glued part, coat well with a layer of 2-3 mm.
12. Insert the knee-adapter to which the lead will be attached.
13. Remove excess glue.
14. After the glue dries, remove the adhesive tape and finish mounting the outlet to the sewer from the device.

Connection to the sewer below ground level

To insert the sewerage of an additional outlet into the well below the ground level, as in the photo, a different method is used, namely tees at 45 and 90 degrees. Such a connection will allow you to connect a summer kitchen or a bath to the sewer.

For work you will need:

• tee with the desired slope and branch diameter;
• coupling with which it will be connected to the pipeline.

Instruction:

1. Make a well to the junction, under the installation site you need a recess into which the liquid will drain.
2. Make marks according to the size of the tee.
3. Cut the pipeline with a grinder.
4. Bulgarian process slices.
5. Clean off dirt and shavings.
6. Treat the edges of the coupling with sealant and put it on the pipeline.
7. Put on the tee and slide on the sleeve, make a branch connection, be sure to treat all joints with adhesive-sealant.

Connection to the plastic sewer with a tee at 45 or 90 degrees, see the video:

You can see in detail how this is done in the video. Connection to a cast-iron pipe is carried out using a 110 mm mortise coupling. The Jimten brand also has sewer drains that allow you to crash and switch to PVC without the hassle without cutting off the sewer section. This is one of a limited number of brands that produce such devices.

Inserting into a sewer pipe is quite simple.

To connect a dishwasher or washing machine, depending on the sewer pipes (plastic or cast iron), the tie-in is carried out in different ways. Accordingly, various tools and materials are needed.

To do everything right, you must first free the area in which you want to insert, since, for example, in an apartment, the sewer system can be closed with decorative boxes or furniture.

It is also advisable to clean the sewer with a cable before inserting, or use different chemicals, and after that you can proceed to the final work.

This method has a number of disadvantages, one of them is the formation of burrs during drilling, which somewhat reduces the clearance and can lead to faster clogging of the system. The second drawback is that with such a tie-in, a large amount of water cannot be drained, especially with a powerful stream. From under the adapter, despite the sealing, in this case, water can begin to drip - from a few drops to quite powerful streams.

If a, For example,an old cast-iron pipe is installed and access to it is limited, the tie-in is done in the following way:

1. With the help of an electric drill and special crowns, a hole of the required diameter is drilled for metal, if possible, the burrs formed inside should be removed.
2. A so-called tie-in adapter is put on top of the sewer, which has a semicircular body and a branch.
3. Before applying it, you should carefully coat its inside with plumbing sealant, and then firmly press the fixture with clamps to the main structure.

In the course of the work (if the apartment is not on the top floor), neighbors should be warned so that they do not use the sewerage system while the necessary plumbing work is underway.

Into the cast iron sewer

Despite the emergence of modern plumbing materials, in particular, plastic and metal-plastic products, cast-iron sewer options are installed in many houses, especially old ones.

To crash into them at home, you must definitely use a grinder to drill a hole.

The old grandfather method (hacksaw + hammer) cannot be used, especially on old pipes, as there is a risk of breaking them either completely or partially.

Instruction:

1. On the pipe, markings are made with chalk, which section needs to be cut out.
2. After that, cuts are made. If the disc of the grinder does not allow you to completely make a hole, you should finish it with a hacksaw.
3. The edges of the cuts are carefully cleaned, all burrs are removed, then a plastic tee with cuffs is prepared.
4. Rubber cuffs are put on the cut ends of the cast-iron pipe; before that, it is advisable to lubricate them with plumbing sealant. It is advisable to lightly tap each cuff around the perimeter with a rubber or wooden mallet.
5. It is advisable to lubricate the part of the plastic tee that will be inserted into the cuffs with special silicone grease for plumbing.
6. First, one end of the tee is put on, then the other. At first, not completely, so that you can make adjustments.
7. After that, the tee is finally put in place, and then an additional element is connected to it to drain the water.

After acquiring an apartment, people, as a rule, make repairs in it, during which it is best to change all the old cast-iron sewers to modern plastic ones. The same applies to all plumbing.

into the plastic system

It is incomparably easier to make a tie-in into a modern plastic sewer than into an old cast-iron one. The easiest way is to use a tee, which is purchased with the same diameter as the plastic pipe itself.

Namely:

• The polyethylene pipe should be cut into 2 parts;
• A cuff is put on each cut section;
• Then a tee is inserted into it, and the whole system is finally fixed.

When installing, be sure to use plumbing sealant. If you do not want to completely cut, then you can limit yourself to drilling a hole of the diameter that is needed. If the sewer pipe or riser is 50 mm in diameter, then the hole must be drilled 22 mm, if 110 mm, then the hole diameter can be 50 mm.

You can cut a hole in a plastic pipe using an electric jigsaw

After drilling, the hole should be processed with a file and sandpaper so that no burrs remain. A special adapter purchased at the store is lubricated with sealant, inserted into the hole and secured with clamps.

In the water supply, the tie-in is carried out in the following way. A set of saddle clamps is purchased. They are 2 semicircular halves of a plastic pipe with rubber gaskets and an outlet in one of them. The water is shut off, a hole is drilled, then the saddle clamps are installed in the intended place and pulled together with bolts.

Into the fan pipe

This element connects the sewer network to the atmosphere. This is necessary to prevent rarefaction of air in the sewer and suction of water into it from siphons in apartments. When the water leaves the siphons, odors from the sewer begin to penetrate into the apartment.

If initially during construction such elements were not installed, then a tie-in should be made into the sewer riser.

Sometimes it happens that one outlet from the sewer is not enough or one pipe is made for several risers. In this case, it is required to make an additional tie-in either in the riser or in the pipe. If it is plastic, then making a tie-in into it is quite simple. But if it is made of metal or cast iron, then more effort will be required, since it will be necessary to cut the riser, insert a tee and perform a fairly large amount of work.

Nuances:

• The pipe should be purchased the same diameter as the riser;
• It can be cut in relation to the riser both at an angle of 45ᵒ and at 90ᵒ;
• The drain pipe cuts into the sewer riser in the same way as any other;
• Its end must be brought to the roof so that the distance is at least 50 cm.

It is important to do everything right and not rush to get the result, because in case of improper installation, everything will need to be redone, and this will require additional costs both in material terms and in terms of labor.

If the owner of the house himself cannot or does not want to do everything on his own, you can turn to professionals. It is only worthwhile to clarify in advance in different companies how much it will cost either to completely replace the entire sewage system, or to partially insert into an existing one.

There are several ways to connect an additional pipeline to an existing sewer pipe. The choice of method depends on the specific circumstances of the connection.

Insertion into a horizontal sewer pipeline

The most common situation: it is necessary to connect an additional plumbing fixture to a plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm.

In this case, it is still more reasonable to disassemble the sewer pipe. And insert a tee at the connection point. Work is performed in the following sequence:

The result is a one-piece stationary pipeline with a connection for a new plumbing fixture.
The only thing is that it is recommended to select an oblique tee (with an acute angle - an angle in the direction of fluid movement), in order to reduce the likelihood of clogging.

But there are situations when it is impossible to disassemble the pipe or it is necessary to crash into a cast-iron pipe, which, by its appearance, seems to say that it is better not to touch it ...

Then the tie-in into the sewer pipe will help out by drilling a hole in it according to the diameter of the connected branch.
A fitting is used at the connection point, which is called an adapter. It is a cap with a branch for a connected pipe. Attracted at the connection point with clamps.
It is selected according to two parameters: - the diameter of the pipeline to which it is connected and the diameter of the connected pipe.

In general, a tie-in kit is not difficult to purchase in a store.

But the adapter can only connect a pipeline whose diameter is two times smaller than that of the pipe into which the tie-in is made. It is also important that the connection to a horizontal pipe is made only from above or with a deviation of up to 45 degrees from the vertical. This is important, since the inserted pipe should not interfere with the drains.

Tapping into the sewer pipeline using an adapter is carried out in the following order.

• The pipe at the connection point is cleaned and dried to at least the width of the adapter.
• A hole is drilled in the pipe according to the diameter of the connection. For example, for a 50 mm pipe, it can only be 22 mm and no more. For a 110 mm pipe, the maximum diameter of the connected pipe can be already 50 mm. A core drill is used for drilling.
• The adapter is covered with sealant and fixed to the pipe with clamps. It is important not to damage the plastic pipe when tightening!
• A rubber cuff-adapter and a connected pipeline are inserted into the outlet branch pipe of the adapter.

Connection to the sewer riser

Insertion into the sewer riser can also be done in different ways.
Usually the riser has a diameter of 110 mm (plastic pipes). If a smaller diameter pipe is connected, for example 50 or 40 mm, then the adapter already described can be used.

But you need to remember that if the riser is passing, i.e. Since there is a drain from the upper floors, it is undesirable for the protruding parts of the incoming pipe to be in the riser. Otherwise, this place will become a collection of debris falling from the top. Or even a blockage in the pipe, if a rag falls on top of the protruding pipe ...

Otherwise, the insert into the riser of a pipe 50 or 40 mm in diameter does not differ from the above technology using an adapter.
It is only important to determine the tie-in point so that the connected pipeline has the desired slope.

But if a pipeline of the same diameter (110mm) is supposed to be inserted, then the situation becomes complicated. But solvable. Then the connection to the riser is made in this way: a piece of the riser is cut out and two fittings are inserted in its place - a tee and a compensator.

• A tee (if a pair of pipelines is connected, then a cross) is needed for connection. It is selected according to diameters - passing 110 mm and branch 110 mm? or 50 mm?.
• Compensator. It looks like a piece of pipe with a transitional diameter. With a wide part, it is put on the riser from the bottom up. Then it goes down the riser and is inserted into the tee with a narrow part. Thus, it allows you to re-dock the riser together.

Precise calculations must be made before installing the tee and compensator.
The main thing is to determine the height of the tee. After installation, its outlet must be at a given height level to ensure the necessary slope of the pipeline connected to it. This takes into account the length of the riser, which will enter the lower socket of the tee.
This determines the lower mark along which the riser will be cut.

Then the top mark is determined. The cut length of the riser must be equal to (or slightly longer than) the length of the compensator so that it can be brought under the riser. The length of the compensator is added to the lower mark, and the upper mark is obtained.

Before starting work, do the following:

• Prevent draining down the riser during repairs. This must be ensured by any means - by bypassing neighbors, if any, or by setting up armed posts ...
• Prepare rags and water for cleaning.
• Clean and dry the riser at the repair site.

Work on connecting to the sewer riser is performed in the following order:

That's actually all. It remains to fix the riser to the wall with clamps if its fastening has been destroyed.
But it is still not recommended to take on cutting out part of the riser, if you have not dealt with sewage and pipes before. It is better to entrust it to professionals.

Tapping into a sewer pipe will require the appropriate tool, depending on the method and material of the pipes. How to crash into a plastic or cast iron pipe, we will consider in more detail in this article!

Often there are situations when it is necessary to insert pipes into an existing sewer system to organize a drain from a new household appliance. Naturally, you can just get by with a tee. However, this approach can only be implemented when a tie-in is made into a cast-iron sewer pipe 110. In a system built from PVC pipes, one tee is indispensable.

Insert technology

To solve the problem, there are several options for working.

Tapping using a tee

As noted earlier, this option is used in 90 percent of cases in a situation where the tee is mounted on a metal pipe. The thing is that to strengthen the junction of the two parts, you will have to use welding. And at the initial stage of work, it is necessary to cut the pipe and cut off a piece, which in its parameters will most closely resemble the tee used for installation. It should be borne in mind that the tee in the considered tie-in method will be mounted in the form of a coupling on a pipe segment.

When work needs to be carried out with a system made using PVC pipes. One pipe should be replaced by several short sections, between which a piece of pipe equipped with a branch pipe will be placed. It is in this part that additional equipment will be connected. The problem in this installation is the connection using sockets, which are intended for inserting a pipe.

Insertion into PVC pipes

A tie-in to the sewer, during the installation of which plastic pipes were used, can be carried out on its own. For work that will solve the problem of how to crash into a plastic sewer pipe, you will need:

• Prepare a piece of pipe together with a nozzle of the desired diameter.
• Prepare the workpiece. This stage of work involves leaving a part of the part and a pipe extending from it. The distance is calculated so that the insertion point in the main part becomes securely blocked.
• A hole is drilled in the pipe, with a diameter identical to the width of the pipe.
• Sealant is applied to the inside of the flange. The outer side of the part near the hole is also smeared.
• The flange is superimposed on the pipe and tightly attracted along the edges with clamps. The fastening should be tightened gradually until the sealant begins to ooze from under the flange. Excess grease should be removed.

If the tie-in into the sewer pipe is carried out in places with a small liquid pressure, then there is no need to use clamps. Here it is enough to connect the flange to the pipe with ordinary electrical tape.

Cutting into a metal pipe

If you need a tie-in into the sewer riser from metal parts, it is best to use a ready-made tee that has a slightly larger diameter than the pipe. From the tee, you must first separate the part without the branch pipe.

However, there are often situations when you have to prepare the flange on your own. To do this, you need to purchase a pipe, the value of the inner circumference of which will coincide with the value of the outer circumference parameter of the connection pipe. Next, the part is cut longitudinally, a hole is drilled in it and a pipe is welded. To fully answer the problem of how to crash into a cast-iron sewer pipe, all that remains is to weld the prepared flange to the pipe. If the welding machine is not at hand, then you should use any sealed mixture and clamps.

It is worth remembering that before starting the tie-in, you must make sure that there is no fluid pressure in it.

Punch tools and how to use them

The situation when you need to connect to an already functioning sewer can arise at any time. Buying a new dishwasher or washing machine, installing a washbasin or faucet, connecting a heating pipe - all of the above is a reason to tie into the sewer system.

The modern market is ready to offer the consumer a wide range of various adapters, which are the ideal solution for each specific situation. Connecting with them will not be a problem. Currently, there are two most common tie-in methods:

1. Using an adapter. This option is used when a tie-in is made into a sewer pipe of 110 or 100 millimeters. By the way, when a tie-in is made into the sewer 110, the size of the adapter will be 50 millimeters.
2. The use of plastic fittings. This option is used when mounting to a pipe with a diameter of 32 to 40 millimeters.

To perform high-quality work with the adapter, you should follow the following list of simple steps:

• Completely restrict access to water.
• Attach the crown to the drill and use a power tool to make a hole of the desired size in the pipe.
• If an adapter with bolts is used, then the part is put on the pipe, and the bolts are tightened.
• When mounting without fasteners, the surface is preliminarily degreased, a tie-in is applied and the nut is tightened.
• To prevent leaks, it is worth additionally lubricating the junction with a sealant.

The quality of the tie-in to the sewerage system will allow the owner of the home to avoid repairing the entire system and connect a new plumbing or household appliance without any problems.

Methods for inserting a tap from household appliances

It is this problem that often causes a sewer tie-in. At the same time, it occurs not only in the houses of the old layout, but also in new apartments designed taking into account modern operating conditions. It is in such houses that the pipe in the bathroom, where the washing machine is installed, is concreted into the wall. So it turns out that it is easier to make a tie-in than to engage in the installation of a new siphon of owls with seven ensuing consequences.

To work, you will need the following tools:

1. Metal strip, drill and drill with a large diameter.
2. A clamp intended for fastening a branch.
3. FUM tape.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• A clamp is put on the outlet, intended for fastening metal strips. To fix the clamp on the wall, drill holes in it.
• Since a tie-in is being made into the pressure sewer, it is necessary to let the water through. This action will avoid the appearance of a fetid odor.
• A hole is drilled in the pipe. If it was not possible to find a drill of a suitable diameter, then a sharp knife or file will be required for further work. With their help, you can expand the hole. It is important to understand that the hole must remain round in shape, and its diameter can be only two millimeters less than the identical parameter in the outlet.
• The outlet is wrapped with FUM tape and inserted into the hole. No need to try to save on the tape and, if necessary, it is better to rewind it completely for reliable fixation.
• On the wall, the places of fastening of metal tapes are marked, in which holes are drilled and dowels are screwed in. The fasteners are twisted with maximum density in order to tightly and securely fix the clamp on the outlet.

The last step is to lubricate the edges of the joint with a sealant. As soon as the grease hardens, an additional connecting layer is formed at the junction.

A tie-in to a sewer pipe is necessary when installing an internal or external household sewer for a new home, to divert storm water to a sewage treatment plant, to connect a new plumbing fixture (sink, dishwasher or washing machine). A skillfully executed tie-in will help to avoid a radical replacement of the elements of the existing sewer.

Approach methods

Inserting a new branch into a sewer pipe involves connecting an apartment or house to a local sewer, to vertical risers or a horizontal bed. There are many ways to properly and reliably make eyeliner. And the building materials market offers a large selection of various devices in the form of adapters. But for the sewer to work properly after the tie-in, you need to know what are the simplest ways to make a tie-in into the sewer without involving expensive specialists, but doing all the plumbing work yourself.

Inlet to plastic pipeline

When starting to insert into a sewer pipe, one must prepare for the fact that the work will be dirty, which means that you will need to wear overalls. Before starting the process, you need to learn that all horizontal connections must have a slope.

The amount of slope will depend on the diameter of the workpiece:

• for diameter 50 mm optimal slope - 3,5%;
• for 110 mm – 2%;
• for 160 mm – 1%.

It is not recommended to make slopes of a larger size (counter slopes), since silt deposits will settle on the inner walls, narrowing the clearance. It is more rational to cut into a horizontal pipeline from above, so there will be less blockages and possible leaks during operation.

To enter a new wiring into an existing one, you need a branch pipe (a small piece of pipe) and clamps that will play the role of fasteners. After all the necessary parts have been purchased, you can begin to work on tie-in PVC sewer pipes.

Sequencing

Work must be performed in the following sequence:

• Close the sewer outlet.
• Drill a hole in the plastic wall for a new input.
• Fix the pipe in this hole.
• Insert a corrugated rubber seal inside the pipe.
• Fasten the joints with a clamp and tighten with a screw connection (attached to the clamp in the kit).
• Insert a new sewer line into the outlet pipe.

The clamp can be bought ready-made, or you can make it yourself. For self-production, you must perform a number of actions:

• Take a plastic blank equal in cross section to the existing pipeline.
• Cut off a piece of the required length from it.
• Saw lengthwise.
• In one half, drill a hole equal in diameter to the new pipe.
• Glue the outlet pipe into the gap.
• Treat the joint with a hermetic compound.
• Attach the clamp to the hole cut in the existing pipe (glue and seal).
• Connect to the second component of the clamp.
• Fasten with wire.

Tee application

A tee is needed to supply several additional sections to the main sewer. When inserting a new sewer outlet into PVC sewer pipes, tees are rarely used, since joining two plastic parts in this way is fraught with depressurization of the connection zones. Such adapters are more often used in the case of insertion into cast-iron wiring.

When tapping into a sewer pipe using a tee, you must perform the following steps:

• Buy a straight tee.
• Shut off the existing sewer.
• Cut out the section of the cast-iron pipe where the supply will be carried out.
• Install a tee.
• Lead the supplied systems into the holes of the tee (this must be done as deep as possible).

A special bracket is used to fix the input wiring in the desired position. The main difficulty may be connecting the existing wiring to the tee if the cast iron system is old. Old outlets are often located close to the floor and can be difficult to access due to tiling. It is difficult to make a joint when the pipes fit snugly against the wall. All these reasons impair access to the attachment point.

Gaps and joints of joints are protected with sealant. High-quality sealing materials are silicone fillers, epoxy resins, special sealing tapes that are very popular now. Before sealing, the cast-iron joint must be cleaned of grease, dirt, old waterproofing, after which it is possible to wrap the part of the existing wiring with a new tee with two layers of sealing tape.

Application of the adapter

A plumbing adapter is a device that is designed to join pipelines that do not have a convenient connection. The method of tapping into the sewer using an adapter is used when it is necessary to connect additional plumbing (for example, a washing machine), and it is not possible to disassemble or cut the existing pipeline.

Such a connection is possible only in a PVC sewer pipe, in which a hole is cut out according to the size of the incoming branch. The adapter has the form of a cap with a tap for the plug-in input. The introduced pipeline should be much smaller in cross section than the main one (at least 2 times). This requirement is a disadvantage, since it is necessary to have just such a ratio of the main and supply wiring.

The procedure for performing work on tie-in into a sewer pipe using an adapter:

• Turn off the water.
• Dry the pipeline.
• Drill a hole equal to the diameter of the adapter (if the diameter of the existing pipeline is 50 mm, the hole for the adapter should be no more than 22 mm, with a cross section of 110 mm, the supply should be 50 mm in diameter).
• Insert the adapter into the prepared hole.
• Cover the adapter with sealing material.
• Fasten with a clamp.
• Insert a rubber seal (cuff) into the outlet of the adapter.
• Install new pipeline.

Entrance to the sewer plastic riser

By connecting sewer outlets to existing risers, you can purchase all the parts and elements necessary for work at a plumbing store. The kit will include blanks of the desired section, connecting cuffs, rubber gaskets, clamps. But you need to know that when making a tie-in into the riser, an additional supply system will act on it with an increased load.

To cut the pipeline into a vertical sewer riser, you need to purchase a compensator. A pipeline compensator is a device that reduces the harmful effects on materials, reduces the load on structures, prevents various negative effects from pressure and vibration, thereby extending the working life of the sewer system.

To bring the connection to the sewer riser, you must have an adjustable socket for the required number of outlets and home-made or ready-made clamps.

Having everything to do the work, you can start eyeliner:

• Define a cutoff point.
• Cut out part of the riser for the new pipeline.
• Install the compensator and tee tightly in the upper part of the riser.
• Treat all connecting seams with sealant.
• Bring the necessary systems to the tee.
• Attach the sewer riser to the wall using clamps as fasteners.