Strawberry beds - how to make multi-tiered, smart, tall or warm beds with your own hands. What is the best way to grow strawberries in high beds? How to make a high bed for strawberries

At least one bed of strawberries can be found in almost every suburban garden plot. At least it is convenient to lure children to the country. Adults will not refuse fresh berries either. At the same time, to get a good harvest of strawberries, you have to work hard. The result largely depends on the shape and size of the beds.

Location selection

In order to competently make a bed for strawberries, you should choose the right place for it.

• The area needs to be well lit. Therefore, the possibility of orienting the beds from east to west should be taken into account. This will allow strawberries to warm up all daylight hours. Do not forget that in three years you will have to select a new place for this berry. Otherwise, it will be exposed to diseases, and the fruits will shrink.
• It is necessary to break up a bed for this crop in places where legumes and lettuce grew before. Where tomatoes and cucumbers, as well as eggplants, “lived” before, it is useless to justify strawberries. Insects and bacteria that have settled in such a place, along with the predecessor plants, will not allow strawberries to grow and bear fruit.
• It is undesirable to plant this crop near fruit trees, since the caterpillars, along with apples and other garden gifts, can also eat berries on the ground.

Optimal dimensions

Whatever option for arranging a ridge for strawberries is chosen, you always need to consider what sizes will be most suitable for creating best conditions for the development of strawberry bushes and the convenience of their processing.

If you arrange a ridge eighty centimeters wide and plant berry bushes in it in two rows, the distance between these rows will be approximately forty centimeters. This will provide the plants with normal air access, in addition, the berry can be safely weeded, loosened, removed extra whiskers and harvested.

It is more convenient for some to make the distance between the bushes thirty centimeters, when it comes to varieties with small roots and leaves. strawberries large varieties, which has a powerful root system, should be planted at a distance of half a meter from each other. In some cases, this distance can be increased to sixty centimeters.

The height of the beds is usually from twenty centimeters to a meter. It all depends on the chosen growing technology.

Moreover, a large height is preferable than a small one.- "low landing" portends the development of weeds and fungus due to the large accumulation of moisture between the berry bushes.

The distance between the beds themselves should be sixty-five to seventy centimeters. This allows a standard garden wheelbarrow to drive along such a path, which is indispensable when processing such plants.

Materials used

To make a bed for strawberries, you can use various materials that are found on the farm. Both slate sheets and wooden enclosing structures are used. From the boards you can put together something like a flower bed, into which you can then plant bushes. Will find application in the arrangement of beds plastic bottles and pipes of different diameters. A curb stone or brick will also not be superfluous.

Varieties

There are a lot of varieties of beds for strawberries. They differ in size, shape and principle of the device - from primitive to complex with original system glaze.

horizontal or standard

These are ordinary low beds without fences, dug out to the size of a spade bayonet. They are good because they are easy to arrange, on the other hand, as the plants grow and develop, they have to be regularly weeded.

Moreover, in addition to the garden itself, the paths in the neighborhood are also overgrown. In addition, it is easy to bring diseases to low horizontal areas with strawberries. It is enough if the pathogenic microflora is on a person's shoes.

Covering can become a kind of horizontal ridge. The entire ground around the bushes is covered with a black film or other material that does not allow weeds to grow and strawberry leaves to touch the wet ground. The complexity of the work lies precisely in organizing such a shelter, although the ease of use justifies such labor. Yes, and covering material can be used for several years.

vertical

Vertical structures can also be made suspended, using, for example, slotted bags. Pyramidal is convenient to put together from boards, folded from tires different size. In the pipes that are used to accommodate strawberry bushes, holes are punched in a spiral for planting.

Vertical structures are better than others in that they take up little space, look beautiful, especially during the flowering and fruiting of strawberries.

They can be placed on the south side of the gazebo or the facade of the house (barn). Berries with this arrangement of bushes do not come into contact with the ground and do not rot.

The multi-tiered vertical structure of vessels filled with earth has no (or almost no) weeds, so there is no (or almost no) weeding.

It is easier to harvest from a multi-level, for example, pyramidal, flower bed than from a low one. No need to work bending over, the berries are better visible. On the other hand, one has to take into account that in winter the longline structure will freeze through. Therefore, plants for the cold period will still have to be “evacuated” to a warmer place.

If strawberries are grown in pots or containers, they need to be fed more often than in a standard garden bed. This is also a concern. Appropriate procedures have to be done at least once a week.

with railings

Such ridges, in essence, are containers filled with earth. Moreover, they can be made to a fairly large height, depending on the configuration of the box. Then there is no need to bend low to weed some two rows of bushes from the weed and remove the overgrown mustache. This approach allows you to make a warm bed by placing a layer of compost in the box.

The disadvantage of ridges with fences is that when using them, it becomes necessary to water the plants with particular care - in this case, the roots are not able to draw moisture from the depth.

How to do it yourself?

To independently make a bed for strawberries from a bag, you do not need to make calculations, and also use a drawing. It is enough to sew pockets on the bag or take independent small bags (you can buy them in a specialized store or make them yourself). Plant bushes in them and hang the structure. The best place to place it is in the immediate vicinity of the terrace or gazebo.

In this case, it is not required to arrange a drainage system. When watering, excess water will seep through the fabric of the bag.

To make a pyramid out of wood for placing strawberries, you need to make a certain amount of boxes of various sizes. Then assemble them into a given figure. Pour soil into the structure and plant strawberries.

From a pipe installed vertically, you can make a bed that will not take up almost any space on the site. In this design, it is important to properly arrange drip irrigation. For manufacturing you need to take:

• PVC pipe with a diameter of at least eleven centimeters and a length of two meters;
• PVC pipe with a diameter of two centimeters of the same length (a rubber or polyethylene pipe is also suitable);
• tools - knife sharp end, drill, burlap;
• gravel, nutrient soil.

In a large pipe, holes should be cut from two to five centimeters in size, in rows or following a different arrangement. The most advantageous distance between the holes is ten to fifteen centimeters.

Then make holes in a small pipe. The more often they are located, the more intensive the penetration of moisture can be expected during irrigation. The pipe should be wrapped with a material capable of passing water. The same burlap, for example.

It will have to be fixed on the pipe after a certain distance. A plug is installed in the bottom hole, and upper edge equipped with a funnel.

pipe bigger size you need to deepen into the ground by half a meter. Pour gravel around it, then earth and trample down. Insert a thin tube into the middle of this tube and fill the free space between them with a nutrient composition. If the soil sags over time, add a little more. After that, it remains to plant strawberry bushes in the holes.

For simplicity, only the outer tube can be used. Then she will fit inside more land. But watering will not be so convenient at all.

For regions where the summer is cool, it is good to arrange a warm bed - something like a greenhouse. This design is carried out according to the principle of a multi-layer cake.

First, a box is made, in place of the “strawberry house” a recess is made in the ground. In the bottom layer of the "pie" is placed wood waste - chips, broken branches. After that, several levels are covered with pieces of cardboard and small wood debris - shavings and sawdust are already falling asleep on it. Grass that has just been mowed, tops, old leaves are laid on them. After that, you can lay compost or humus, and then just earth. Taking into account the fact that the roots of strawberries go thirty centimeters deep, it is necessary to lay a nutrient layer of the appropriate height.

The “heated” bed turns out to be high - about a meter up. If you do not want it to protrude too much above the surface, the recess in the ground under it can be made deeper.

Using slate for garden beds is a common idea, although, from an environmental point of view, this is not the most good option. Asbestos cement is by no means useful for the land in which it is buried. Captivating ease of use of this material. The beds, fenced with wavy sheets, even look elegant.

When constructing a ridge, it makes sense to place a wavy slate on a frame made of wood or metal; a flat one can simply be buried to a depth of ten to twenty centimeters, fastening all sides with a metal corner so that the structure does not fall apart in the spring.

If you approach the matter thoroughly, such a fence will last at least three years - until the next “moving” of strawberry culture to a new place.

For information on how to quickly make a bed for strawberries from slate, see the following video.

Experienced gardeners know what strawberry beds should be like. Garden strawberries are any berry of everyone who has their own land. In order to get a lot of tasty and juicy berries in a season, you need to choose the right strawberry variety, plant it correctly and take care of the berry. An integral stage in the cultivation of garden strawberries is the arrangement land plot.

Site preparation for garden strawberries

Not everyone knows how to make beds from the earth and improvised means. When preparing beds for strawberries, the following aspects are taken into account:

• depth of groundwater;
• side of the world;
• the presence of shading objects (trees, shrubs, fence);
• soil acidity;
• soil type.

Digging up a bed for strawberries, you need to keep in mind the fact that the plant does not like excess moisture. If groundwater is located close to the surface, it is necessary to make a bed for strawberries higher. A pyramid bed works well. The soil should be loamy, sandy or contain a sufficient amount of humus. Neutral pH soil is best.

When choosing beds for strawberries, it is important that they used to grow on them. It is not advisable to use the land on which tomatoes, eggplants and cucumbers grew in past years. It is recommended to plant strawberries in the beds where greens (lettuces, peas, beans) used to grow.

In such areas, the soil is more suitable for berries. The bed for strawberries should be located from west to east. This arrangement will provide sufficient sunlight. Strawberry is a photophilous plant.

These structures are vertical. They can be made from the following materials:

• bags;
• stands with pockets;
• car tires;
• tree;
• plastic or metal pipes.

Growing strawberries in high beds is becoming more common. This is due to the following factors:

• ease of care for plants;
• aesthetics;
• saving space;
• irrigation economy.

When using flower beds made from improvised materials (barrels, tires), the usable area of ​​the land is preserved, since similar designs located predominantly above ground. This facilitates care (weeding, watering, loosening, trimming the mustache). Pyramid for strawberries allows you to increase the yield of berries.

Few people know how to make beds for strawberries from tires. This will require a sufficient amount of tires, land and fertilizer. To equip a high bed for strawberries, you need to fill the tires with earth, previously mixed with humus or other fertilizer (litter, nitrophoska). The land is watered abundantly. Up to 5 plants should be placed in 1 tire. If the tires are of different sizes, then they can be stacked on top of each other. In this case, the diameter of the tires from the bottom up should decrease. Holes for strawberries are made in a circle.

Some gardeners make flowerbeds hinged in the form of bags filled with earth. For their manufacture, bags of cereals, flour or sugar are suitable. Bags must be strong. The bags are hung on a wall or fence with sunny side. Strawberries should be watered from above. Horizontal slots must be made in the bags.

High beds for strawberries in the form of wooden pyramids are widely used. A pyramid for strawberries requires certain skills from the owner. A box is made, which is then filled with earth. A box of smaller diameter is installed inside it. A pyramid is formed, consisting of several tiers. Garden strawberries are planted around the perimeter.

Arrangement of a classic horizontal ridge

Not everyone has an idea of ​​​​how to properly make a ridge for garden strawberries. Initially, you need to carefully dig up the ground. It is necessary to dig deep equal to the height spade bayonet. The following rules must be observed:

• its width should be from 40 to 80 cm;
• furrows should be 30-40 cm wide;
• furrow depth not less than 20 cm;
• the height of the ridges is 20-40 cm.

For convenience, it is required to make a fence of boards around the entire perimeter.

Asbestos-cement sheets are often used instead of boards. Some gardeners equip walkways made of bricks or tiles. The presence of such paths is a measure of protection against the spread of diseases between crops.

Once every 3-4 years, the location of the strawberry garden needs to be changed. Beds under the film are widespread. The difference lies in the fact that a dark, dense film is laid on top. The material is cut into large rectangles. Their size is the same as that of the beds. Sheets are overlapped and sprinkled with earth.

For planting plants, cuts 15 cm long are made in accordance with the location of the seedlings. Strawberries are planted in holes dug in cuts. Such beds have a number of advantages. First, they do not need to be weeded. Secondly, soil loosening is not required. Thirdly, water accumulates under the coating. The disadvantages include the possibility of strawberries drying out in hot weather, since the film and the ground under it heat up well.

Proper planting of strawberries (video)

How to care for ridges

The presence of several low or high beds for strawberries requires the land owner to regularly care for them. In summer, during the growth of plants, they need to be watered regularly. Watering is organized using a watering can, hose or sprayer. On hot days, you need to irrigate the beds 2-3 times a week. It is recommended to do this in the evening, as the water evaporates quickly during the day.

On cool days, the frequency of watering is less. For irrigation, warm water purified from clay is used. If you have your own well, water must first be defended in a barrel. The beds need to be periodically loosened. Loosening improves oxygen access and helps strengthen the root system. Be sure to clean the beds from weeds and pests.

In spring, mulching and enrichment of the earth with organic and mineral substances is mandatory. Complex mineral fertilizers, mullein solution, ammonium sulfate are used. Fertilizers are best purchased in specialized stores. Liquid fertilizers can be dissolved in water and irrigate the beds with it. Fertilizers in the form of granules can be laid on top of the beds.

High (vertical) ridges are easier to care for because you don't have to lean too far. Every autumn, the beds need to be cleaned of mustache and old foliage. When breeding strawberries, new beds are planted with young mustaches. Thus, beds for garden strawberries need to be prepared in advance (even before planting). Preparation includes cleaning the soil, digging, fertilizing. With fertile land and constant care all summer from June to September, you can pick juicy and ripe berries.

Planting strawberries in non-woven fabric (video)

Gallery: beds for strawberries (15 photos)

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Strawberry (garden strawberry) is a very fastidious plant that needs to be planted correctly and cared for in a special way in order to get a good harvest. The berries will be juicy and tasty only if the soil is prepared correctly. In order to dig up beds for strawberries, you need to have certain knowledge.

A garden plant does not tolerate a lot of moisture. It's in without fail should be taken into account when disembarking. If the location of groundwater is near the surface of the earth, then the beds are made higher. This eliminates the possibility of water stagnation. It is important that the strawberry beds are located in a place where there is lighting throughout the day. Insufficient sunlight adversely affects the yield and taste of berries.

Please note that the area for planting should be large, because the bushes should be planted at a distance of one from one. There should be no holes and heights on the site. The advantage is a slight slope, as it will affect the growth rate and the quality of the crop:

• When located on the south side - there is a friendly ripening and, as a rule, early. Berries grow sweet, sourness is practically absent.
• The slopes on the northern side differ in the duration of the ripening of the strawberry crop, but thanks to this, the berries are much larger.
• The most optimal landing site is the location from west to east.

If the landing is made on a slope that will have a strong angle of inclination, then in winter the wind can damage the snow cover, which will lead to the freezing of the cultivated plant. It is also useless to plant a crop in the lowlands, because excessive moisture promotes foliage growth, which leads to a decrease in the mass of berries. This contributes to the active development of viral and fungal diseases, which gradually leads to the extinction of the garden plant.

Crop rotation and neighbors

Strawberries are planted after legumes, cereals and cereals. If tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers or potatoes grew in the garden, then the garden plant will not bear fruit. This is due to the fact that there are high risks of infection of the culture with various diseases.

To protect against slugs near the strawberry beds, it is recommended to plant parsley or sage, which scare away the voracious pest. Among the most favorable neighbors, radishes, onions and beets should be distinguished.

Features of landing and selection

Strawberries are planted both in August and in April. The second option is more preferable for those gardeners who want to harvest in the summer. At spring plantings a longer wait is required. Autumn planting of seedlings is also notable for the fact that it allows you to get a large number of berries, especially in the first year.

For healthy strawberry bushes and good harvest it is important not only the time of planting, but also the acquisition of high-quality seedlings. Must choose right sort healthy seedlings. Gardeners recommend to give preference annual species having a closed root system. They have fibrous roots with a length of 5 cm and three well-developed leaves.

For a good harvest, use the best varieties garden berry. You can prepare frigo-seedlings - selected bushes from a personal garden, stored in bags with low temperatures. Before planting such seedlings, it is necessary to check for the presence of diseases.

Soil composition

Strawberry beds should be made from sod land or humus. Garden culture feels quite comfortable when planted in medium-carbon soil, which includes a sufficient amount of organic matter. It should be noted that this type of soil is heavy, so there is a need for additional loosening behavior.

How to loosen the beds for planting strawberries? It is recommended to use natural material:

• Sawdust - only overripe raw materials should be added. If the process has not occurred, then it is recommended to soak the sawdust in a solution of urea: for 10 kg of sawdust, take 2 liters of water and 2 tbsp. l urea. Mix all components thoroughly and after 2-3 hours add ash.
• Peat - absorbs and retains moisture, but according to many gardeners, it is not suitable for strawberries due to its high level of acidity. If it is decided to use peat, then at least 200 g of ash must be poured into each bucket. This type of baking powder is recommended to be used only in the autumn. Otherwise, it will become an obstacle to the growth and development of seedlings.

The volume of fertilizer beds for strawberries should be sufficient: you need to take at least 6 kg per square meter. m. Superphosphate, potassium chloride and ammonium sulfate are best suited. They are sprinkled on top of the soil and evenly distributed. Weeding should be at a depth of 20 cm.

Preparing the ground

Before planting strawberries, you need to prepare a bed. Without these measures, the berry harvest will be medium-sized and the harvest will have to wait a long time.

Preparing a bed for strawberries includes the following steps:

1. Cleaning of large debris (leaves, branches and stones).
2. Digging up the soil to the depth of a shovel bayonet.
3. A scattering of organic fertilizer (1 bucket of humus per 1 sq. M).
4. Marking the site for the beds - applying dividing strips.

Digging holes for seedlings in garden soil should be at some distance from each other. Each bush should have enough space for full growth. If the planting is carried out end-to-end, then there are great risks that all the seedlings will die. It is unacceptable to plant strawberries in the same soil for more than 4 years.

Formation of beds

Strawberry beds are formed in several ways. The most common are: simple, German and vertical.

The easy way

Strawberries are mainly grown in beds that are at least 20 cm wide. The distance between the bushes should also be taken into account. It should be 30-40 cm. Optimal width the furrow between the rows is also 30-40 cm. It is recommended to place the beds on a hill, and furrow - 20 cm below. If you make the width of a different size, then uneven fruiting is possible. At the same time, some of the seedlings may die due to lack or abundance of moisture.

This approach allows you to achieve optimal outflow of rainwater, which eliminates the likelihood of developing diseases. To ensure uniform illumination of the sun's rays, it is recommended to plant berries in the direction from east to west.

Low German beds

The peculiarity of this method is to create not ordinary furrows. As barriers to moisture, fences should be made, which can be made of asbestos-cement sheets, boards or slate or other material.

The height of the ridge should be 20-40 cm, and the width should not be less than 50 and not more than 80 cm. If the maximum width is used, then the seedlings should be planted in 2 rows. For the most effective filling of furrows, you can use broken brick or stones. On such a bed, moisture will not accumulate and there will be no problems with drought. Diseases garden culture are also excluded.

Advantages of a low German garden bed:

• Easy access to berries, watering and weeding.
• Avoiding the spread of disease.
• Strawberry bushes do not get tangled with each other and do not create a shadow.

vertical way

Even an inexperienced gardener can make vertical beds for strawberries. There are several options for creating the most fruitful beds. These methods differ from each other and have a number of advantages.

The most popular ways of planting strawberries are vertical beds:

1. Stepped - the most common. It implies making landings in fences made of boards set in a stepped position. This design in appearance resembles a pyramid. This allows for a more even distribution of light.

2. Using tires - with your own hands you can create unique designs that involve the use of improvised material - old tires. Holes are made in them, in each of which seedlings are planted. In the middle of the stack of tires laid out one on top of the other, you should install a perforated pipe of sufficient length, made of PVC. A plug should be installed at the bottom. It will be used for irrigation. Please note that each tire installed must be filled with soil.

3. Structures made of PVC pipes - they are mounted mainly on the southeast side of the fence or gazebo. You need to use gutters as the main structure and nylon or steel cables for fastening. After preparing the necessary material, it is necessary to proceed to the creation of structures. Pipes can be cut horizontally in half or holes of small diameter can be made in them. The pipes should be filled with fertilizers and soil. Such systems allow for good care for strawberries.

The convenience of vertical beds - ease of cleaning for the winter. The soil is easy to work before planting. Watering is provided with the help of special hoses led to a thin tube installed in the soil. Such a system allows you to control the humidity even with a long absence of the gardener.

Ridges for growing strawberries can be different. The gardener can choose any design that will be more convenient to use for growing garden crops. It is best to create harmonious beds that will become an ornament for a personal plot or cottage. Berries and fruits must grow under constant supervision, which makes it possible to get an enviable harvest.

How to start arranging a plot for growing

First of all, you need to choose optimal location. At the same time, it is important to take into account the agrotechnical subtleties of growing berries: the plant does not like shade, so it is better to break strawberry beds in a sunny area. It is undesirable to plant strawberries among trees - in the shade it does not bear fruit well. Strawberries prefer places protected from the wind. Experienced gardeners recommend planting strawberries between currant bushes or low fences. The ideal location of the plantation is the southeast side of the garden. Strawberries should be planted on a flat area or slightly elevated. In a lowland, where the soil is constantly flooded and does not dry out completely, the plant will not take root.

The culture gives a good yield on a sandy-loamy and sandy substrate enriched with humus. On calcareous, saline areas and soils with a high groundwater table, fruiting is ineffective. The best predecessors for planting strawberries are parsley, radishes, legumes, dill, celery, corn and carrots. It is undesirable to equip a mini-garden after harvesting potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, eggplants and peppers.

Type of beds

Having decided on the landing site, you need to choose the type of plantation and prepare a nutritious soil substrate. The classic version is the simplest and most popular. Vertical beds save space and reduce the risk of damage by many pests (but in our area strawberries do not overwinter in them!) High - prevent root rot, providing good drainage. There is a possibility of arranging an insulated "front garden".

Strawberry bed sizes

PHOTO SCHEME

To provide high performance yields an important role is played by the size of the beds for strawberries. With the traditional planting option, garden strawberries are placed in a carpet way, in nests or in rows. This technology is also acceptable for arranging high plantations. carpet method suitable for summer residents who rarely appear on the site. The culture grows, and a special microclimate is formed - a layer of mulch is formed on the surface of the earth. Thanks to this, strawberries do not need frequent feeding and watering. However, as the number of rosettes increases, the berries become smaller.

To obtain large fruits, agronomists recommend adhering to the following parameters planting berries: the width of the beds for strawberries is up to 80 cm. This is enough to place two parallel rows at a distance of 40 cm from each other. If you select too wide a plot, then it may be difficult to water, weed and harvest. The optimal landing direction is from east to west. This will prevent the bushes from shading each other. Optimal Height beds for strawberries - with sides of 20-40 cm. The width of the furrows for planting is 30-40 cm, the depth is from 20 cm. The distance between crops is 40 cm.

Warm beds and their features

A warm bed for strawberries is arranged on the surface of the earth or deepened into the soil. The insulated structure consists of several layers: drainage, a heat-generating layer and soil. Its arrangement is necessary in regions with an unfavorable climate, where until mid-June there is a threat of frost returning. Such structures are of three types: frame, bulk and combined. The photo shows their features.

Frame beds. All lower layers and a fertile pillow are placed in a manufactured box. This method of organization is suitable for areas with high humidity where it often rains or the soil is waterlogged. The frame is made of boards or slate.

Bulk beds. The technology consists in digging a shallow trench and filling it with "stuffing". As a result of the work, a raised bed-hill with a warm bottom is obtained. The bulk method is applicable in areas where there is no threat of flooding - The groundwater travel far from the surface.

Garden bed material

Before you make a warm bed for strawberries, you need to decide on the material of the fence. Boards, slate or metal profiles are well suited for this purpose. The wicker construction of branches is easy to manufacture, but does not provide proper thermal insulation, and moisture evaporates quickly.

High beds and the scheme of their construction

Many gardeners do not share the concept of warm and high beds. In fact, there is no difference between them as such. Raised beds for strawberries are made using the same technology and from the same materials as insulated structures. The only difference is the backfill. tall buildings may consist of a single layer of fertile soil, "heat-generating" components in this case are absent. The advantages of a raised garden include: for arranging frame or deep beds, you can use balanced purchased soil; breaking high beds for strawberries with your own hands is quite simple: the main task is to choose a suitable place and make a frame; the soil is not trampled down, remains loose - more oxygen and nutrients are supplied to the roots of plants; a raised horizontal bed can be given a sinuous shape, which will serve as a decoration for a personal plot; rapid warming of the soil accelerates the ripening of fruits.

The disadvantage of the design is the rapid drying of the soil. Deepening the plantation 20 cm into the ground partially solves this problem. When choosing the parameters of a “raised garden”, you should adhere to the following recommendations: in regions with a harsh climate, it is better to create a structure 20-25 cm high. In winter, the structure will be under the snow, and the strawberries will not freeze. boards high structures(40-60 cm) run the risk of not being covered with snow and freezing through. If the approach to the mini-garden is possible only from one side, then the width of the structure should be no more than 60 cm. With two-way maintenance, 1-1.2 m is acceptable. The choice of length depends on the dimensions of a particular site.

Covering material for strawberry beds

There are two types of covering material: organic and inorganic. The first option includes: sawdust, straw, pine needles. Organic mulch is available but degrades quickly and needs to be replaced regularly. Modern inorganic covering materials are in active demand: Spunbond, Agrotex, Agril, Agrospan and Lutrasil. Agrofibre is made from polypropylene, which does not react with chemical compounds and liquids. Important nuances of how to close beds with strawberries with covering material: the material should be spread in spring or autumn - during transplantation. Two weeks before the shelter, the plantation is prepared: leveling the surface, moistening and fertilizing the soil. When placing a two-layer agrofibre, it is important to check that the moisture-repellent side is on the bottom, preventing the earth from drying out. The optimal layout of beds under black covering material is 40 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows. The film is lined with a mini-garden and cruciform holes are cut out in it. If the seedlings have already been planted, then first they cover the plantation with agrofiber, “feel” the plants under the film and make holes. Before fixing the covering material on the bed with strawberries, the tension of the agrofiber is checked - it should be free, but not develop. The covering sheet is fixed around the perimeter with metal studs, boards or sprinkled with earth. It is important that no holes are formed - this will lead to swelling of the material and its displacement.

Growing garden strawberries in elevated mini-plantations has many significant advantages. The technology has proven its effectiveness and is widely used in summer cottages. Happy harvest!

Strawberry beds can be found in almost every site, but not all of them can boast of abundant fruiting. When landing these wonderful berry bushes special agricultural practices should be followed, starting with the choice of beds and ending proper care for seedlings.

Proper organization of planting will help reduce the likelihood of strawberry diseases, damage by pests, freezing in winter period. Below we will look at how to make beds for strawberries with your own hands, what type of beds to prefer, what materials are better to use.

How to choose a landing site?

1. Strawberries are plants that love sunlight, so it is advisable to plant them in well-lit places. In this case, she will pick up a sufficient amount of sugar. When planted in the shade, the fruits will not be as sweet, but they will have more flavor. It is better to orient the beds from east to west for better illumination and uniform heating by the sun.
2. The site should not be located in lowlands, near the surface occurrence of groundwater. The ideal place is on a hill.
3. It is also important what cultures grew earlier in the chosen place. The best predecessors of strawberries are legumes, herbs, celery, radishes, corn, lettuce. Do not plant berries after tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, cabbage, peppers, raspberries, roses, blackberries. These plants have the same pests as strawberries, and are also susceptible to the same diseases.
4. Neighborhood with other plants also affects the well-being of strawberries. It is negatively affected by wild rose, roses, bird cherry, apple trees, plums, apricots, cherries. In general, planting strawberries under trees is not worth it, since, in addition to the shade, it will suffer from spraying with pesticides.
5. The best soil for planting is sandy or sandy loam, well fertilized.

Should know! The plot with strawberries should be changed every 4 years. During this period of time, plants take all the elements useful for themselves from the soil. Further, the berries begin to shrink, the bushes get sick, the yield decreases.

Optimal bed sizes

Strawberry planting options

The most popular method of planting strawberries among summer residents is carpet. Bushes are independently distributed, settling in free areas. Gradually, the soil is covered with a layer of mulch that retains moisture. Maintenance of such a plantation is minimal. The disadvantage is that the berries gradually shrink due to the thickening of the plantings.

1. A properly arranged bed should have a width of up to 80 cm. 2 rows of plants can be planted on it with a distance between rows of 40 cm.
2. Also, you can lay single-row beds 20 cm wide, between which furrows 30-40 cm wide will pass.
3. The length of the beds can be any.
4. The height depends on the type of bed. If the plants are planted on level ground, then it is desirable to make furrows between the rows, which will be below the laying of the bushes. In such furrows, excess rainwater will collect, which negatively affects the roots and collects a lot of pests. It will be more convenient to move along these furrows when harvesting. The recommended width of the furrows is about 40 cm, the depth is 20 cm.
5. The distance between adjacent bushes should not be too small, as strawberries do not like tight spaces. Optimal - 40 cm.

How to do?

There are several ways to create strawberry beds. The simplest carpet method does not allow for maximum planting efficiency, so it is usually improved. Consider all the most popular options, their features and order of arrangement.

German low

The width of the beds should be between 40-80 cm, depending on whether 1 or 2 rows of plants are planted. This method requires an enclosing box. Plantings are located at the level of the soil or slightly higher.

Production order:

1. The marking of the future beds is being made.
2. The selected site is cleared of weeds and debris.
3. Box is being made. If slate, metal strips or other materials are used as fences, they will be installed later.
4. From the soil surface, at the markup site, the top layer is removed to a depth of about 40 cm.
5. The bottom of the pit is filled with any organic matter. Suitable branches, corn stalks, tops of plants, grass, paper.
6. The top layer of fertile soil is filled up with humus, rotted manure, decomposed compost. The soil is leveled and strawberries are planted.

Advantages:

1. Such smart beds provide ease of maintenance.
2. When watering, the soil is not washed away thanks to the fences.
3. Plants are better protected from pests and diseases.
4. A high content of organic matter in the soil will allow you to get a good harvest. Strawberries in such a bed will not need additional fertilizers.

Disadvantages:

1. The complexity of the process.
2. Consumption of fencing materials.

vertical

It often happens that there is not enough space in the garden for planting strawberries. In this case, you can build vertical beds, placing them in any free space in the yard. They can be attached to the walls of buildings or be independent structures.

Advantages of a vertical arrangement:

1. They take up a minimum of space.
2. You can even place it on your balcony.
3. They are easy to take care of.
4. Good drainage. All excess water flows down.
5. Bushes are located far from the soil surface, which reduces the risk of disease.
6. Such designs are very beautiful, they are elements of landscape design.
7. There are no thickenings, as the bushes grow separately.

Disadvantages:

1. Requires regular feeding and frequent watering.
2. Plant roots can freeze in winter.

Vertical beds from pipes

Creation of vertical beds from various materials:

1. Made from PVC pipe. 2 pipes of different sections are used: 120 and 20 mm. The first pipe serves as a frame. Holes with a diameter of 10-12 cm are cut out in it, into which bushes will sit. The distances between the holes are made at least 30 cm. A pipe with a diameter of 20 mm is used for watering strawberries. Small holes are drilled in it to let water out, after which the pipe is wrapped with burlap and inserted inside a wide pipe. After that, the wide pipe is filled with fertilized soil. Bushes are planted in the holes.
2. From car tires. Tires of different diameters are used. In each of them you need to cut a side shelf. The largest tire is placed in the intended place and filled with fertilized soil. A tire of a smaller diameter is placed on it. And so several tiers are filled. Bushes are planted along the perimeter of the tires, in each of them.
3. From hanging bags. Soil substrate is poured into old sugar bags, and several cuts are made in the walls of the bags. Bushes are planted in the cuts. Bags are best hung to the walls of the building. Watering is carried out through the upper neck of the bag. Ideal soil moisture is ensured, as excess moisture drains from the bag to the ground.
4. Multi-storey. They are pyramids, mostly wooden. A lower square or triangular box is constructed, which is filled with organic matter and fertilized soil. The next box, of a smaller diameter, is installed on it. So several tiers are exposed. Plants are planted along the perimeter of each of the tiers.

Warm

Frame warm bed for strawberries

Principle of operation warm beds simple. Decaying organic waste releases heat and methane, which has a beneficial effect on the growth of strawberry bushes. A warm bed consists of several layers: plant drainage, an organic heat-producing layer and an upper fertile soil layer.

Benefits of warm beds:

1. Plants receive a sufficient amount of heat, so they begin to bear fruit earlier, and bear fruit longer.
2. Strawberry roots are fully nourished.
3. There is no need to apply fertilizer during the season.
4. In winter, strawberries do not freeze.

Disadvantages:

1. It takes a lot of effort to arrange a "layer cake".
2. For frame and combined type consumables are required.

The design of warm beds may vary. We list the features and how to create them.

Frame

A box made of slate, corrugated board, boards or other materials is equipped on the soil surface. A heat-generating layer is formed in the box. Such beds work great in lowlands, on swampy and flooded soils.

Bulk

To create them, you need to dig a shallow trench into which all the layers characteristic of warm beds are laid. It turns out a small elevation on which strawberries are planted. This is the most popular option used by most gardeners. It is used in areas where there is no threat of flooding.

Combined

They combine both of these options. The laying of the lower layers takes place in a trench, and the upper layers - in an erected box. This is the most time-consuming method, but also the most effective.

Filling warm beds

All types of warm beds have the same structure:

1. The lower part consists of branches that perform the function of drainage.
2. Grass, leaves, compost, sawdust, rotted manure, etc. are laid on the branches.
3. The contents of the beds are carefully rammed, and then watered with hot or warm water.
4. Fertile soil is covered from above.
5. Strawberries are planted.

High

The peculiarity of such structures is the presence of high frames. If the site is in a lowland, then it is often possible to grow a decent strawberry crop on it only in this way.

Advantages:

1. Plants will not be affected by groundwater.
2. Ease of care and harvest. No need to squat or bend down to the ground.
3. Comfortable paths can be laid between individual boxes.
4. The principle of warm beds works. The organic matter laid down from the bottom of the box gradually decomposes, fertilizes and warms the bushes.
5. Raised beds protect strawberries from creeping pests and most diseases.

Disadvantages:

1. Regular watering is very important, since moisture does not enter from below, and good drainage does not allow it to linger at the roots.
2. Designs require serious preparation and considerable effort.

Arrangement order:

1. Choose a place, make markings and clear the area of ​​debris.
2. Build a box from improvised material. The height of the box can vary from 30 to 90 cm.
3. Remove the top layer of soil.
4. Fill the trench with organic waste (branches, grass, straw, leaves, sawdust.
5. Make the top backfill from the excavated soil, adding compost or two-year-old manure to it. Backfill should not reach the very top of the box. It is necessary to leave a few centimeters.
6. Plant strawberries in rows.

Mobile

Interesting options for beds can be obtained from simple things that are idle on the site. Plus, they can be moved from place to place. Mobile flower beds can be obtained from buckets, bathtubs, barrels, boxes, and other containers. They are filled with earth mixed with organic matter, and then planted from one to several strawberry bushes.

Collapsible frames made of galvanized steel are popular, which, if necessary, are quickly dismantled and removed for the winter.

Advantages of mobile beds:

1. Possibility of transfer to any place.
2. Low labor costs for manufacturing.
3. Good warming up in the sun.
4. Ease of care and harvest.
5. Economical water consumption.

Disadvantages:

1. In winter, there is a possibility of freezing plants. Especially in metal containers.
2. Requires regular watering due to quick care moisture.

From the boards

One of the most suitable materials to create beds are boards. Wood species that are resistant to decay are best in contact with the soil: oak, larch, beech, ash.

Advantages:

1. Inside the beds, a mild microclimate is created that is favorable for the growth of strawberries.
2. On such raised beds, the bushes will be less likely to hurt and be affected by pests.
3. The tree retains heat well, so the seedlings will be comfortable on cold days. In the sun, the wood does not heat up, which is good for strawberries in the heat.

Disadvantages:

1. The complexity of the creation process.
2. The need to use power tools and fasteners.
3. Some types of wood need to be treated with impregnations to prevent rotting.

Construction order:

1. A box is made from boards. The boards are fastened together with self-tapping screws.
2. At the installation site of the box, the top layer of soil is removed.
3. Geotextiles are laid at the bottom of the box and drainage from crushed stone or small stones is poured.
4. Fall asleep over the drainage fertile soil in which strawberries are planted.

from slate

Construction slate refers to available materials, therefore enjoys well-deserved popularity among gardeners. Flat or wavy slate beds can be found everywhere.

Advantages:

1. Quick and easy erection.
2. Durability. Slate does not rot or decompose in the soil.

Disadvantages:

1. Slate contains asbestos cement, which can adversely affect soil composition.
2. It is necessary to deepen the sheets into the soil and further strengthen.

Arrangement order:

1. In the place where the beds are created, you need to remove the top soil layer.
2. Slate sheets are buried in the soil by 10-20 cm.
3. The corners of the beds are strengthened metal corners to increase the strength of the frame.
4. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the frame to protect against wind.
5. The frame is filled with soil mixture.

As an alternative, you can first assemble a metal or wooden frame, and then fix the slate on it.

From tires

An old car tire may well serve as a flower bed.

Advantages:

1. Free consumable.
2. Takes up little space.
3. Ease of arrangement.
4. Reliable protection against winter frosts.
5. Original appearance.

Disadvantages:

1. It is believed that rubber can release into the soil harmful substances, although this claim is debatable.
2. It will take time and effort to cut holes.

Making a flower bed:

1. Holes about 10 cm in diameter are cut out in the tire every 20 cm. Or the entire shelf is cut out.
2. The cover is placed in the right place.
3. The bottom of the tire is covered with a mesh, on which the earth is poured.

Covering materials for strawberry beds

To prevent the soil from drying out, weed control and frost protection, strawberry beds are covered with covering material. Both organic materials (sawdust, straw, leaves, needles) and inorganic materials (lutrasil, agril, spunbond, agrotex, agrospan) are used.

Organic mulch requires constant renewal, while nonwoven fabric is used repeatedly. Mushrooms do not reproduce under the black cover, weeds are suppressed, and the soil warms up faster. On beds with covering material, the berries are always clean, as they do not come into contact with the soil.

Working with agrofibre:

1. The material is spread when transplanting strawberries into prepared beds.
2. In the shelter, cross-shaped cutouts are made according to the landing pattern.
3. Bushes are planted in the slot.
4. If the strawberries are already planted, a shelter is spread over it, the bushes are groped and cuts are made.
5. Agrofibre is fixed with pegs or sprinkled with earth.

With the proper construction of beds, strawberries will certainly delight their owners with a regular and plentiful harvest.

Strawberries are a rather capricious and whimsical berry in care, so growing it is not an easy task. This is especially true for regions with a cold climate, where to get good result much more difficult than in the warm south. Finland is among the countries that have been particularly successful in growing strawberries. Finnish agronomists invented unique technology, which greatly simplifies the life of farmers, and also allows you to get big harvest large, fragrant berries.

Finnish strawberries

Principles and Benefits

As mentioned above, from a geographical point of view, Finland is not a suitable place for the cultivation of strawberries. But, despite this, it is the leader in the production of this berry - according to statistics, the annual harvest is 7-12 tons per hectare.

Growing strawberries using Finnish technology

The main secret of this result lies in the technology of growing strawberries using special materials (mulching), which accelerate the ripening of berries and improve them. taste qualities. The technique, which has already been dubbed Finnish all over the world, has a number of important advantages:

• nitrate nitrogen accumulates in the upper layers of the soil, which significantly improves the nutrient medium of plants;
• mulch cover provides uniform heating of the soil and optimal level humidity, and also creates an obstacle to the growth of weeds and the rooting of rosettes;
• microorganisms that live in the earth and contribute to good growth plants, significantly increase their activity;
• the earth does not stain the ripe berries, so they retain their presentation.

Beds with mulching

You can grow strawberries in this way both in the open and in greenhouses, but in any case, it will take about 7-8 weeks for the berries to ripen.

Material selection

When growing strawberries according to Finnish technology, a special polyethylene film black color. In addition, in this case, a white film or a non-woven polypropylene fabric such as Agril or Agrotex can be used. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages, which should be considered when choosing.

Strawberry bushes under black film

So, the use of a film requires the organization of a drip irrigation system, since water rolls along it in the aisle. under cover in in large numbers insects and slugs settle, and during heavy rains there is a possibility of mold. It should also be noted that the black material attracts the sun's rays, and in hot weather, plants need additional mulching hay or cut grass. Overheating of the earth can be avoided by means of a transparent or white film, but in this case, along with strawberries, weeds will flourish in the plantings, which will need to be fought with herbicides.

Another disadvantage of the film is that even with slight frosts, condensation forms on it, which is why it needs to be additionally heated. To do this, it is best to use sawdust, which must be poured with a layer of at least 8 cm.

Agrofibre

The use of agrofibre does not carry with it the risk of mold formation, since the structure of the fiber is able to "breathe". But at the same time, the surface of the soil dries up quickly, as a result of which the plants need to be watered much more often. Among the disadvantages of agrofiber can be attributed to its rather high cost - the purchase of such material will cost more than buying a film.

How to prepare the site?

For growing strawberries, it is better to choose places well-lit by the sun away from trees and outbuildings. If you plant plants in the shade, they will often get sick, the yield will decrease, and the berries will become small and sour. If we talk about the characteristics of the soil, then strawberries grow best on light and medium-sized soils with an acidity of 5-6.5. Planting is recommended to be done where legumes or cereals grew, and land on which nothing has grown for 2-3 years is best suited. Strawberries should not be planted next to potatoes, peppers, or eggplants.

Strawberries grow well in full sun

Soil preparation is best to start in the fall. Dry leaves are removed from its surface, after which the soil is dug up well to get rid of weed roots.

We prepare the beds

In the spring, after the earth warms up, it must be well loosened with a rake in order to break up large clods and saturate it with oxygen. Next, the soil should be fed, and experienced farmers recommend using organic fertilizers- for example, humus, compost or manure (5-6 kg per square meter), as well as mineral (35-45 g per square meter).

We apply fertilizer

After the land settles (this takes about 7-10 days), the most crucial stage of growing strawberries begins - the arrangement of beds. Low beds are poured on the site and their surface is well leveled with a rake.

The beds are leveled with a rake

The width of the beds should be about 80-90 cm, and the distance between the rows should be at least 65 cm, but you don’t need to make them too wide either, otherwise access to the bushes will be complicated. To regularly moisten the planting, it should be equipped with a drip irrigation system, since it will be difficult to water the beds in another way. A garden hose with a plugged end (its length must exactly match the length of the beds) is often pierced along the entire length, after which it is buried between the beds by 5-10 cm.

An example of equipped drip irrigation

Arrangement of beds

The next step is the preparation and laying of the mulching material (agrofiber or film). It should be cut into pieces that exactly match the length and number of beds.

Agrofibre flooring

The film or agrofibre is rolled out in length, well stretched and laid on the surface of the beds. At the same time, it is very important that there are no folds or creases on it, so the material should be stretched very carefully so that it lies evenly and tightly. Along the edges, it is well fixed with boards, stones or special hairpins - they can be made from wire yourself.

Water bottles can be used as cargo

Next, you need to make markings on the surface, and then cut out the cells (diameter 25-30 cm) every 30-40 cm. It is best to do this with a thin sharp knife or piece metal pipe of the appropriate size in a checkerboard pattern so that the bushes do not interfere with each other.

Agrofibre with cells

Some farmers prefer not to cut round holes on agrofibre or film, but simply make cross-shaped cuts, but this cannot be called optimal solutions. The fact is that over time they will expand further, which can adversely affect the plants. To facilitate the task, you can buy factory-perforated material in a specialized store.

The choice of agrofibre for growing strawberries

Arrangement of high beds

Raised slate beds

Another popular way to grow strawberries in Finland is planting in high beds. It is particularly well suited to cold, wet regions where the soil is not warmed up or ventilated properly. It is very simple to equip high beds with your own hands - for this you will need the most simple materials, best of all is a fifty-fifty board. A box with a height of no more than 50 cm is knocked together from it, which will serve as a frame and will not allow the bed to sag.

Growing strawberries in raised beds

Its length can be arbitrary, depending on how many strawberries you plan to grow. The box is installed in the right place, after which they dig up the ground inside it well, select the weeds and fill it with fertile soil to the top. Everything else, including the preparation and laying of mulching material, is carried out in the same way as in the arrangement of ordinary beds.

An example of high wooden beds

planting strawberries

For the cultivation of strawberries according to Finnish technology, it is best to use seedlings in pots (they do not experience much stress during transplantation), but you can also use strawberry seedlings that were grown in open ground.

strawberry seedling

It will need to be prepared accordingly: a few hours before planting, shorten and soak in a solution of potassium permanganate or in a special rooting preparation.

It is best to plant young strawberries in cloudy weather or in the evening so that the scorching sun does not destroy the seedlings. If the procedure is carried out in the morning, the planting should be protected from the sun for several days so that the seedlings can acclimatize.

Video - Planting strawberries

In each hole made on the surface of the mulching material, use a small shovel to dig small holes, the depth of which will correspond to the length of the roots of the seedlings. Pour about half a liter of water into each of them and place a strawberry bush. After that, the soil under the plantings needs to be well moistened again, and mulched with peat or manure. The first watering of strawberries is carried out manually in each well, and then with the help of an irrigation system equipped in advance.

strawberry care

strawberry care

Caring for a strawberry planting on a film or agrofibre is no different from a similar process on ordinary beds. Plants will need to be fed with complex mineral fertilizers, cut dried leaves and excess tendrils, and also spray them from the weevil. Strawberries planted in this way in June give the first berries in August, and due to the fact that they do not grow on the ground, it is very easy to pick them.

Care of planted plants

After the strawberry fruiting period is over, the mulching material should be removed, dried well and rolled up until next year. Dried and diseased leaves should be removed from strawberry bushes, and then treated with a solution of potassium permanganate or drugs for diseases. After the onset of cold weather, plants can be covered with straw, which will protect them from freezing.

Growing strawberries using Finnish technology only at first glance seems not an easy task. In fact, this is the perfect way to simplify planting care, increase yields by at least 20% and get a good harvest of beautiful, clean berries with excellent tasting qualities.

Video - Planting strawberries on film

Every summer resident would like to receive a rich harvest of strawberries at the very a short time. And enterprising Finns are no exception. Method accelerated maturation They had to invent strawberries not from a good life: the summer in Finland is short and warm.

But the Finnish method involves not only the preservation of heat. Among its advantages is the ability to get a clean berry, without weeds. It is this growing technology that ensures the inaccessibility of the crop for pests, and also significantly reduces the likelihood of diseases in plants. Because of top part placed on a covering material, strawberry whiskers cannot take root. Well, the above method provides a minimum of labor and effort during weeding.

If a few years ago this method seemed something exotic to novice summer residents, today, in principle, any gardener can grow strawberries using Finnish technology.

Step 1. Choosing a covering material for strawberries

At the heart of the Finnish growing method is a simple rule: save heat, which is so necessary for the growth and ripening of strawberries. To do this, farmers plant seedlings on some kind of covering material - most often for strawberries they choose black mulch film or agrofibre (spunbond, lutrasil, agril, agrospan, etc.).

These materials differ not only in cost. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, choose the option that will be the most optimal for you.

Strawberries under spunbond: highlights

Learn how to properly plant strawberries under black spunbond.

Step 2. Choosing a place for strawberry beds

This should be an area that receives full sun throughout the day. The future bed should be at a considerable distance from any buildings or trees - this way you can avoid shadows. In no case should this rule be ignored, otherwise, instead of large sweet strawberries, you will get small sour berries.

Step 3. We prepare a bed for planting seedlings of strawberries

When growing strawberries, the soil is also of great importance (it should be neutral or slightly acidic). The best thing is to organize beds where any legumes or grains grew a couple of years ago.

It is better to prepare soil for strawberries grown according to Finnish technology in the fall. At this time, garbage and dry leaves are removed from the site and the earth is dug up with the simultaneous application of fertilizers (about 10 kg of humus or compost, 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium chloride per 1 sq.m). When spring comes, the soil is leveled with a rake, breaking up large clods of earth. This procedure helps to saturate the soil with oxygen, which is very important for plants.

Step 4. We form strawberry beds and organize drip irrigation

Forming beds for strawberries begin 10-14 days after completing all preparatory work. How long they will be depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. In order for the sun to warm the soil as much as possible, the beds should be located from south to north. As for the width of the beds, it directly depends on how many rows you want to make.

According to Finnish technology, strawberry bushes in the beds can be planted in one, two or three rows.

Single row strawberry planting

Double row strawberry planting

Three-row planting of strawberries

But the two-line method is considered the most convenient and rational. In order for the soil to warm up better, high (up to 40 cm) ridges 50-60 cm wide are formed. They are laid in the center drip tape or perforated drip irrigation hose. The length of the hose should correspond to the length of the bed, one end of it should be connected to the watering hose, and the other end should be closed with a plug.

Step 5. Planting strawberry seedlings in the garden

Formed beds are covered with covering material, cut in accordance with the size of the beds. Each piece of material is stretched and tightly laid on the surface of the beds. All this must be done carefully to avoid creases. So that the covering material does not fly away with the first wind, it must be securely fastened. For this, everything that is present in abundance in any country house is suitable - boards, stones, bricks, etc.

Now, on a sheltered bed, you need to outline the places where the strawberry bushes will be placed. To do this, holes with a diameter of 7-10 cm are cut out on the covering material. The distance between them in a row should be 25-30 cm, and between rows - 30-35 cm.

It is best if you cut the holes in a checkerboard pattern. This arrangement will be very convenient for strawberry bushes - as they grow, they will not interfere with each other.

Some gardeners prefer not to cut circles in the covering material, but to cut it in the form of a cross. It is not advisable to do this, because over time these cuts will increase in size, because of which the material will not be able to fully perform two of its main functions - to retain moisture and prevent the growth of weeds.

After you finish cutting the holes, you can start planting strawberry bushes. To do this, use either mustaches rooted in the garden, or plants grown in containers and pots. By the way, the second option is preferable, such seedlings are considered more hardy and have a good chance of quickly adapting to new conditions.

Before planting, the roots of seedlings with an open root system are recommended to be kept in a solution of any root formation stimulator for some time (in accordance with the instructions).

When exactly to plant strawberries in the spring depends on the climate zone, so pay attention to the long-term weather forecast. In the middle lane, strawberries begin to be planted in the period from early to mid-May. It is better to plant when there is no bright sun - in cloudy weather or in the evening. Bushes must be planted very carefully so as not to damage their root system. The planting depth is the same as under normal conditions - the roots must be securely hidden in the ground, and the growth point (“heart”) must remain on the surface of the bed.

Step 6. Caring for strawberries

Caring for strawberries grown according to Finnish technology is not so difficult. Basically, it is the organization of quality timely watering, fertilizing, mustache trimming.

Watering

Water strawberries as needed. Water for this purpose should not be warm, but not icy either. Strawberries are actively growing, and from the beginning of May to the end of September they need constant and frequent watering. In summer, if there is no heat, it should be watered once every three days. On hot days, water daily.

Treatments against diseases and pests

To prevent pests and diseases from attacking your strawberries, you need to take care of prevention. In early spring, against diseases, strawberries are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid or any other copper-based preparation, and against pests, the bushes are sprayed with Aktellik, Teldor, Envidor, Calypso and other insecticides. Another preventive treatment is recommended after picking berries (the same preparations).

top dressing

In order for your strawberries to please you with a good harvest, you need to feed them in a timely manner. Moreover, each season requires its own type of fertilizer.

As soon as the first green leaves appear on the outlets, you need to apply fertilizers that contain potassium or nitrogen. Many summer residents usually use a simple but effective mixture for young strawberry seedlings: 0.5 liters of manure or chicken manure, 1 tbsp. ammonium sulfate is diluted in a bucket of water (about 10 liters) and the bushes are watered - at the rate of 1 liter of the mixture for each.

How to feed strawberries in spring

We tell you the best way to feed strawberries (garden strawberries) in order to get an excellent harvest.

The second time strawberries are fed after the first ovaries appear on it. As a rule, during this period, fertilizers are applied that contain potassium, nitrogen, calcium, phosphorus and other trace elements. You can feed strawberries with this solution: 2 tbsp. nitrophoska and 1 tsp. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water, or 2 tbsp. dilute potassium nitrate in 10 liters of water. You can prepare top dressing from biohumus: 1 cup of biohumus is diluted in 10 liters of water and infused for a day, and then again diluted in half with water. Whatever top dressing you choose, you need to pour it in an amount of 0.5 liters under each bush.

In summer, potassium monophosphate is used as a top dressing in the proportion of 1 tbsp. for 10 liters of water.

How to feed strawberries during fruiting

If the strawberries become smaller and lose their pleasant taste, then you need to urgently take care of feeding the bushes with useful substances.

In autumn (early September and late October), strawberries need trace elements such as potassium, phosphorus and sodium. Many people use a solution of superphosphates in a proportion of 10 g per bucket of water. If you need to feed already cut bushes, use the following solution: add 2 tbsp to a bucket of water. nitrophoska and 20 g of potassium salt. About 1 liter of the resulting solution is poured under each bush.

How to feed strawberries in autumn

timely autumn dressing strawberries (garden strawberries) - the key to a good harvest next season. About what fertilizers to choose, organic or mineral, and how to apply them correctly, we tell in today's material.

When using mineral fertilizers, strictly adhere to the proportions that are indicated in the instructions. Otherwise, you can burn the strawberry's root system.

Finnish technology for growing strawberries is not in vain popular with farmers around the world. If everything is done correctly, then the harvest of large juicy berries can be obtained in record time! In addition, the method is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.

And you use Finnish technology? Write in the comments!

Traditional Russian beds on a flat surface or on an earthen ridge for garden strawberries have significant drawbacks that gardeners no longer want to put up with.

It is often possible to meet the statement that strawberries are a picky berry. This is not true at all. It does not require frequent watering and top dressing, winters well, reproduces well and is able to grow in one place for a long time.

• Parameters of an ideal bed and general rules landings
• Raised bed for strawberries
• Warm bed for strawberries seasoned with organic matter
• Vertical garden from a pipe: closer to the sun
• Interesting options for beds for strawberries with their own hands
• - Bed of plastic bottles
• - Horizontal bed made of PVC pipe
• - A bed of old car tires
• - Strawberries in hanging bags
• - Wooden strawberry pyramids
• - Bed-constructor from blocks

All that strawberries need for a high and healthy harvest: oxygen access to the roots without waterlogging, good air circulation in the growth zone of the bushes, a lighted area, fertile soil and no contact between the berries and the soil. To create all these conditions will help the correct arrangement of the beds.

Ideal bed parameters and general planting rules

With good agricultural technology, a strawberry plantation lasts up to 5 years. Then the soil accumulates pathogens, is depleted, old bushes bear fruit worse. Requires a change of site or replacement of soil and renewal of plants.

Planting material can be purchased at a gardening store, or you can use the strawberry's natural tendency to grow whiskers to take over new territory. If you take seedlings from your site, then you need to be sure that there are no nematodes and strawberry mites. Disinfection from pathogens is mandatory for both your own and purchased material.

Note! Remontant strawberry gives less mustache, row spacing stays clean longer. If you plan to propagate your variety, then in the second half of summer pick off the flowers, loosen the aisles and carry out moderate watering.

Regardless of the type of bed, we note the parameters that are always taken into account to create the ideal microclimate:

• bed width 80 cm: plants are planted in two rows with a row spacing of 40 cm, the bushes are well ventilated, it is convenient to weed and loosen the row spacing, there are no difficulties in picking berries;
• the bed is oriented from east to west: uniform lighting throughout the day;
• distance between plants in a row 25-30 cm: remontant varieties form more powerful and tall bushes, so for them the distance is increased to 30 cm;
• the optimal distance between the individual beds is 65 cm: this is enough for the passage of a garden wheelbarrow in order to freely carry out gardening work;
• bed height in different technologies taken from 20 cm to 1 m, but even a slight rise is favorable for the development of culture;
• the soil between the beds is kept in turfing (the growing grass is simply mowed at a level of 5 cm): the black soil overheats, and the weeds serve as a breeding ground for pests and diseases, while low-cut grass is pleasant to the eye and useful for the garden;
• seedlings are planted under a black film (manufacturers supply it with holes already cut, according to the planting scheme): no weeds, the berry does not come into contact with the soil and remains clean even after rain, as a result, the spread of gray rot is noticeably reduced;
• undesirable neighborhood of strawberries with fruit trees: in some years, strawberry bushes may suffer from attacks by leaf-eating caterpillars.

Landing pattern options

In the arrangement of the beds, one should not forget about drainage and nutrient soil. A well-filled with organic matter (compost, humus, peat) soil can provide a rich harvest for 3-4 years of cultivation without additional dressings. To prevent gray rot, the soil is shed with Fitosporin solution before planting seedlings.

Raised bed for strawberries

Fences can have a height of 20-40 or even 90-100 cm. The second option is more convenient in caring for plants and harvesting, indispensable in wetlands and with close groundwater with frequent spring flooding. But he also has negative points: the soil dries out faster, the plants experience overheating, in severe winters there is a high probability of freezing.

Here it is mandatory to use mulch or black film and winter shelter spunbond or lutrasil in regions with frosty winters, and a drip irrigation device is also desirable for uniform moistening.

For beds less than 40 cm, weather disasters are not so terrible, but you will have to bend over and sit down to care for them. A box for a garden bed can be made independently from boards, slate, bricks, or you can order ready-made galvanized beds.

At the installation site of the box, a layer of earth 10 cm thick is removed. Then a protective mesh against rodents or geotextiles is laid and the box is installed so that its walls are 10 cm deep. Large branches and broken bricks are laid out at the bottom of the bed for drainage. At the last stage, the box is filled with nutrient soil from compost, garden soil and bird droppings.

Attention! You can not take the land on the beds after nightshade, cabbage and cucumber, as it can be infected with gray rot.

Warm bed for strawberries seasoned with organic matter

The principle of a warm bed consists in the slow decomposition of organic material with the release of heat. Such a device is suitable for regions with cool summers and late return frosts. Filling the beds resembles a layer cake. The layers are the same as in the compost heap, only they go in reverse order.

Large ones are placed at the bottom. wood waste: wood chips, thick branches, chopped stumps. Next, lined with several layers of pieces of cardboard. Sawdust and shavings are poured on top, covering everything with a layer of freshly cut grass (great if there are green manure crops) and chopped weeds (if you are preparing a bed in the summer, then make sure there are no seeds).

The last layer is mature humus or compost. root system strawberries are fibrous and highly branched. The bulk of the roots are in the 20-25 cm layer. This must be taken into account when determining the thickness of the fertile layer.

The average height of a warm bed is about 1 m. If you want to “lower” the fence, before installing and filling the box, they dig a pit of the desired depth.

Vertical garden from a pipe: closer to the sun

The idea of ​​vertical beds seduces with saving space in the garden and decorative effect. Such option is suitable for plots with any soil, and the bed itself can be placed right in the recreation area and enjoy the aroma and taste of ripening berries while lying in a hammock. But still, this technology is good for a humid and mild maritime climate, and not for the arid Volga region or the harsh Moscow region.

A small volume of potting mix dries out quickly, so a built-in semi-automatic watering system is required. To increase the moisture capacity, a hydrogel is added to the substrate.

The process of manufacturing a vertical bed from a plastic pipe includes the following steps:

• in the pipe of the required length we cut holes with a diameter of 10 cm;
• the first bottom hole is located 80 cm from the edge (this part of the pipe will be buried in the soil)
• at the bottom we put a plug with drainage holes;
• an irrigation tube with holes wrapped in agrofiber or burlap, or a drip irrigation tape is installed in the cylinder in the center;
• the pipe is filled with the substrate at the same time as the seedlings are planted;
• plants can overheat greatly, so it is desirable to cover the plantings with white spunbond.

For the winter, vertical structures in Central Russia are either transferred to horizontal position and thoroughly cover, or brought into a closed room.

Another nuance of a vertical plantation: it is impossible to collect planting material to update the landings. Therefore, in order to preserve the collection of varieties, we recommend leaving a few bushes in the traditional garden.

Interesting options for beds for strawberries with their own hands

In this section, we will look at ideas for mobile beds that can be placed in any sunny part of the site. You can make them from cheap improvised materials. In order for the plants to develop and bear fruit, the structures are filled with a substrate enriched with organic matter. Feeding required during the growing season ash solution, infusion of bird droppings or mineral fertilizers. To increase the water-holding capacity, hydrogel is added to the soil.

Even with proper care, mobile beds are short-lived. Keep the yield on high level will allow a complete replacement of the soil every 2 years.

Bed of plastic bottles

For the full development of a strawberry bush, a volume of at least 2 liters is required. We cut the neck off the bottles, but do not throw them away. We will make a drainage device from it: remove the lid and lower the resulting funnel to the bottom of the bottle, wrapping it with a thick layer of burlap or agrofiber; at the bottom of the bottle, stepping back 5 cm, we make round hole for drain and evaporation of excess moisture with a diameter of 5 cm.

To ensure systemic watering, we make several holes in the bottom of each bottle through which water will flow from the top bottle to the bottom. You should not make a bed too high, a chain of 4-5 bottles is enough.

We plant seedlings in a hole with a diameter of 5-8 cm. We install the bottles on top of each other, securely fastening them with wire to a wooden frame.

This option is well suited for creating an annual ornamental garden. It can be placed near the playground so that children can enjoy a clean berry and do not spoil the main beds.

Horizontal garden bed made of PVC pipe

The essence of the idea is as follows: in a large-diameter pipe, holes are made with a diameter of 10-15 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other, filled with nutrient soil and installed on high supports. Drainage - small pebbles.

Watering is carried out through an inner pipe with a diameter of 40-50 mm with holes, for uniform distribution of water, the pipe is wrapped with a covering material. A more effective, but costly, method is drip irrigation.

A bed of old car tires

Not the most environmentally friendly option, but actively used. You can create a column by stacking tires of the same diameter on top of each other. Or make a pyramid using tires of different diameters. Consider the first method, since it has some nuances.

In the upper part we cut out square holes 10x10 cm, between the holes we make an interval of 15 cm. We must not forget about drainage. At the installation site of the bed-column, you need to dig a shallow pit of 7-10 cm and fill it with sand and gravel. In the lower part, in a circle of each tire, we make holes for water drainage with a drill.

To make the soil sufficiently loose and breathable, add peat and perlite.

Strawberries in hanging bags

This is a great option for growing on a balcony, terrace or pergola. It should also be considered as an addition to stationary beds. Seedlings are planted in bags with pockets or in separate small bags. You can sew them yourself from thick fabric or buy ready-made ones at a gardening store.

There is no need to think over the drainage, since the water itself will drain through the burlap. Plant care includes frequent and not abundant watering, top dressing and evening spraying of leaves.

Wooden strawberry pyramids

Environmentally friendly and durable beds can be made from wooden boards. First, they knock down several boxes with different perimeters so that it is possible to assemble a pyramid.

Then the structure is covered with nutrient soil and seedlings are planted. Low pyramids with shelter endure Russian winters well.

Bed-constructor from blocks

Among the materials at hand in the country very often there are various building blocks, which can be perfectly used for organizing beds and flower beds. A hollow block offers more options than a standard solid block or a brick that serves only as a fence.

Like elements of a construction set, such blocks are folded into various structures, and their voids are filled with strawberry bushes.