How to build a mansard roof with your own hands and not make mistakes. How to build a mansard roof with your own hands using a unique construction technology Building an attic on an old house

The mansard roof makes it possible to significantly increase the total living area, while financial investments will be minimal. The most common option is a gable broken structure, which is easy to build on your own.

How to make a mansard roof yourself

Under the mansard roof, you can equip rooms for housing. The shape of the building may be different, but in most cases the attic is equipped under a roof with two slopes. The optimal solution, which allows you to get a significant area of ​​\u200b\u200bliving space, is a broken structure.

A sloping roof is the best option for arranging an attic

Drawings and calculations of a mansard type roof

The first step is to decide on the scheme of the frame. Rafters can be layered or hanging type. Sloped rest on the walls of the building. They are mounted in structures where the distance between the walls is less than 6.5 m. Hanging rafters are placed on fillies and Mauerlat. If the width of the spans is large, then the rafter system will need to be reinforced with auxiliary ligaments.

The main condition for the comfortable construction of the attic is the level of the ceilings - it must be above 2.5 m. To ensure such a height, the break line should be placed at a height of more than 2.8 m, taking into account the thickness of the layer of material for insulation and sheathing of the structure. It is also important to consider the thickness of the floor.

An example of a drawing can be seen in the image:

The minimum ceiling height of the mansard roof is 2.5 m

To calculate the expected snow loads, you will need to apply this formula: S \u003d Sg x µ, where S is the snow load, Sg is the weight of the snow cover per 1 m 2 area, µ is a value that depends on the slope of the roof (1.0 - for a flat design with a slope of 25°, 0.7 for a design with a slope of 25-60°).

The parameters Sg and Wo can be found in the relevant SNiP, in the "Rafter systems" section. If the roof has a steep slope, then the snow load can be ignored.

Roof device

The frame structure includes the following details:

• mauerlat - a support bar that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
• racks - supporting parts that support the rafter system in a vertical position;
• floor beams - planks that form half of the attic and the ceiling of the lower floor;
• rafters - slats that form the main contour of the roof;
• runs - horizontal support parts for rafters;
• lathing - slats or plywood sheets that are intended for laying roofing material;
• filly - planks that are attached along the axis at the bottom of the rafter legs.

The frame consists of a mauerlat, racks, girders, floor beams and other elements

The sloping roof differs from the usual design with two slopes. The difference is that the slopes that are placed opposite each other have a special shape: they do not form a straight line, but consist of several slopes that are fastened to one another at an obtuse angle. The design is also symmetrical.

The extreme part of the rafters is mainly exposed at an angle of about 60 °. Racks for support, which hold the rafters, form the frame structure of the inner walls. The upper part of the rafters is mounted at a small angle, it can be from 15 to 45 °. This makes it possible to reduce the consumption of materials, while maintaining the functional properties of the roof and resistance to snow loads.

Vertical racks, which abut against floor planks, girders and crossbars fastening them, form a parallelepiped. The design limits the dimensions of the attic from the inside. To give the product additional rigidity, struts should be installed between the floor slats and the lower rafter legs.

If the roof span is more than 8 m, then you will need to install struts

After mounting the upper elements to fix the truss and prevent sagging of the crossbars, it is necessary to install suspended support elements - headstocks. For auxiliary fixation of the lower rafter legs, they must be pulled together with racks using tacks. Parts are fastened with nails and bolts.

Stages of self-construction of the attic

If it is decided to make such a design yourself, it is important to provide for the use of such materials in the project:

• roofing material;
• vapor barrier;
• waterproofing;
• material for insulation.

The choice of insulation affects such a parameter as the pitch of the rafters. To reduce the amount of heat insulator, it is best to place the rafters so that the slab or mat fits snugly between them. The type of lathing and its pitch will depend on the choice of material for covering the roof. You need to pay attention not only to the choice of high-quality material for insulation, but also to the creation of an effective ventilation system.

Ventilation is equipped by preparing technological gaps

The construction of the rafter system must be carried out using fireproof materials. All parts should be treated with fire protection. You will need to prepare the following elements:

• wooden bars with a section of 100x50 mm;
• slats 50x150 mm;
• unedged boards;
• building level;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• steel wire with a diameter of 4–5 mm;
• plumb;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• axe;
• a hammer;
• sharp knife.

Drafting a project

One of the most important parts of the job is drafting a project. It is very important to analyze the features of the layout of a private house. It is necessary to determine the dimensions and shape of the structure being erected, as well as to provide for the placement of windows and a balcony.

All structural elements should be marked on the project

In the process of drawing up a project, the following requirements must be taken into account:

1. It is important to decide in advance what height the attic should be. It should be remembered that the distance from the floor base to the highest point of the structure must be at least 0.5 m.
2. It is recommended to take into account the heating area and the main elements of the interior.
3. The attic scheme should be expanded. If you plan to install windows, then they must be indicated on the drawing.

Drawing up a drawing must begin with the choice of shape, determining the cross section of the rafter legs and the step of their placement. To determine the size of the rafters, the following parameters must be taken into account:

• slope;
• roofing material;
• climate features in the construction region.

It is also important to provide for the required number of rafters in the project. They can be layered or hanging type.

Rafters can be hanging or layered

At the end, you should determine the number of parts for fixing. In the figure below you can see some of the data needed for the calculation, however, drafting a project is a complex process. This work is recommended to be entrusted to qualified specialists.

Mauerlat installation

The device of the mansard roof rafter system should be selected based on the type of roof, as well as on the prepared project of the attic. A simple option is a design with two slopes.

The main details of the roof truss system with two slopes are:

• linear elements (column, bar system, beam);
• planar details (plate, flooring, panel);
• spatial elements (arch, shell, three-dimensional detail).

Before performing work, you will need to dry the wood thoroughly. The first step is the marking and installation of the Mauerlat. It is attached to the walls of the building. The part can be made from a bar or a powerful rail. If it is planned to build a roof with two slopes, then the Mauerlat is laid on the long walls of the building. The element is necessary not only for reliable fixation of the lower part of the rafters, but also for the correct division of the load on the walls and the main part of the building.

To fix the Mauerlat, metal studs should be used, which are mounted in a monolithic concrete beam.

To fix the Mauerlat, you need to install metal studs

The beam should be carried out in the upper part of the wall. It is also possible to use steel wire embedded in brickwork.

To fix the Mauerlat to the upper crown of the wooden wall, you need to use wooden dowels. auerlat requires high-quality waterproofing of timber timber. Therefore, it is necessary to use roofing felt or other material with a water-repellent property.

Before installing the Mauerlat, the base must be covered with roofing material

Mauerlat installation is required if it is planned to erect a roof frame, the rafters of which rest against the upper part of the wall with beveled ends or prepared cutouts.

If you plan to make an attic, the width of which corresponds to the width of the building, the rafter legs should rest with their lower ends against the extended support parts. As supports, it is possible to use powerful beams laid across long walls. The number of supporting elements corresponds to the number of rafters. The beams must be fixed to the walls in the same way as the Mauerlat.

Sequencing:

Frame construction

The frame of the mansard roof consists of floor beams, rafters, girders and racks

Softwood bars 200x100 mm are often used as a material. Floor slats are placed on top of the Mauerlat with a 30–50 cm indent beyond the surface of the walls or in prepared grooves in the masonry. In the first case, the parts are fixed with the help of corners and self-tapping screws.

Fixing the beam to the Mauerlat can be done using steel corners

To make an even overlap, the strips should be installed in this sequence:

1. First of all, the extreme details are laid according to the level.
2. Next, pull the cord and install intermediate elements along it.
3. The step of the beams should be from 60 to 100 cm. A distance of 60 cm makes it possible to mount insulation boards without sawing.
4. To level the beams in height, they can be hemmed. Another option is to use plank linings.
5. If the beams are inserted into prepared pockets, their extreme parts must be treated with liquid waterproofing and wrapped with roofing material.

Racks must be placed on the extreme slats:

After installing the racks, crossbars and girders, you can get a reliable design that will limit the interior rooms of the attic. To increase its strength, in the future it should be fixed with struts and tacks.

Installation of rafters

At this stage, the installation of the lower rafters is carried out:

After that, the upper elements are installed:

1. The first step is to mark the central part of the roof. This can be done using a rack that was previously attached to the Mauerlat and puff from the end of the roof. The extreme part of the board should run along the center of the roof. On this board you need to align the rafter legs.
2. Next, you need to prepare a template from a 150x25 mm rail. It should be applied to the extreme part of the mounted rail at the required level and to the run on which the lower rafter legs will rest.
3. You should mark the top and bottom cuts and cut out the template. The device is applied in turn to two sides of the roof. This will make it possible to check the accuracy of the layout of the central part. If the rows of racks are placed in parallel, then there will be no difficulties in fixing the upper elements - they will have identical dimensions.
4. According to the preparation, it is necessary to prepare the required number of rafters. The parts are placed on the runs and connected in the upper parts with the help of overhead iron plates or scraps of planks. In the latter case, self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. In the run, the rafters rest against the cuts and are seized with iron corners. In order for the parts to stand straight, they are fastened with struts mounted on the bottom of the puffs. All rafters are installed in this way.
5. Suspension racks are fixed - pieces of planks 150x25 mm. The upper part of the rail is attached at the place where the rafters are fixed, the lower part is attached to the tightening.

Video: mansard roof truss system

Installation of struts and gables

Sequencing:

Construction lathing

The crate is needed for:

• distribution and transfer of the weight of the roofing material to the rafters;
• performing additional fastening of the rafter system;
• grounds for fixing roofing material.

The crate can be made in one or two layers, solid or with a vacuum.

The crate can be solid or with a vacuum

The installation method depends on what material is planned to be used to cover the structure. If a roof of slate or metal tiles is being erected, the lathing should be made of slats, which are attached to the bars of the rafter legs with nails. In this case, the installation step of adjacent planks can be 27–30 cm.

A solid crate is used in the case of fastening soft material in rolls.

A solid crate is necessary for a soft roof

In this case, moisture-resistant plywood sheets or particle boards can be used. It is allowed to use pine wood material - edged planks.

It is important to take into account the fact that when constructing such a crate, the material to be laid must follow the contours of the outer base. Therefore, the frame structure must be strong and leveled.

In the process of laying out the material, you should use a cord with which the slats or slabs will lie flat. Parts must be placed parallel to each other. Before fixing, the material must be treated with an antiseptic composition to protect it from decay, fungus and dampness. The blanks must be even and of high quality. It is recommended to give preference to wood grades 1 and 2. It should not have knots. To prevent the boards from warping, they must first be dried.

The sequence of actions for installing the crate:

Mansard roof waterproofing

The material for the roof does not have thermal insulation properties, so you will need to prepare a quality material that will be environmentally friendly for human health. Quite often, mineral wool or glass wool is used. Both materials have excellent sound and heat insulation parameters. It is also important to consider that if the roof is made of metal, when the insulation gets wet, all its qualities can be reduced to zero. Therefore, it is important to carefully consider the device design.

It will not work to insulate the attic without laying waterproofing material, so the process should be considered as a whole. Step by step guide to waterproofing a structure:

Practice has shown that it is better to protect the insulation with the help of modern materials, for example, Tyvek or Izospan. The use of ordinary polyethylene film gives a poor result, as condensation may appear. Experienced craftsmen believe that it is not necessary to waterproof the structure with roofing material.

Before proceeding to work, it is necessary to decide on the heat-insulating material.

Mineral wool is a fairly popular material used for roof insulation.

The most commonly used heat insulators are:

• glass wool;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• foamed glass;
• wood shavings;
• straw.

It is necessary to choose a material taking into account four parameters.

1. Thermal conductivity index. For roof insulation, 0.05 W/m*K or less is optimal.
2. Water resistance. The higher the score, the better.
3. Fire resistant.
4. Environmental Safety.

The insulating qualities of mineral wool deteriorate significantly after a while. Also, the material can be damaged under the influence of mechanical loads. However, mineral wool has a low cost, so the material is used quite often. Polyfoam is not afraid of water and has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. If you plan to build a house only from environmentally friendly materials, then you can use foam glass or straw.

Roof insulation step by step guide:

Laying roofing material and installation of window openings

As an example, the installation of metal tiles will be considered, since this material is used quite often:

The number of windows is determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the floor base 1:10. For example, if the attic area is 100 m 2, then the glazing should be approximately 10 m 2. When installing windows, you need to take into account such nuances.

Do-it-yourself mansard roof project. Drawings according to which you will build an attic over your dwelling, which will make it possible to increase your living space, while the whole thing will not be financially expensive. A gable sloping roof is one of the popular construction options due to the low complexity of the technology.

Building a mansard roof in your own house is a fairly common phenomenon, because this method of construction makes it possible to reduce the cost of space, while making a rather interesting dwelling under the roof. In order to properly arrange the attic floor, it is very important to thoroughly study all the requirements for this floor, as well as choose the right type of roof itself along with its slope.

According to regulatory documents, the attic floor is the volume under the roofing, which is used to place utility or living quarters there. The height of the outer walls in this case is needed no more than one and a half meters in general, otherwise this space is considered a whole living space.

Making an attic with your own hands is an extremely profitable occupation both during construction and during the use of the house itself. In the case of construction, costs are reduced, because the height of the vertical structures for the fence is also reduced. This is all because the attic itself takes on the function of the building envelope, while it continues to serve its original purpose.

Attic floor

Attic - a room located under the roof, it will be possible to make a separate living room from it. During use, costs may decrease due to the following points:

Making an attic: preparation

It is necessary to start the construction of the mansard roof with the preparation of a schematic project, this project should display the mansard roof, or rather its drawing, its complete arrangement. Typically, the roof used for the attic floor is gable, which makes it possible to provide full-fledged windows in the gables, but it is possible to use a four-slope hip roof.

If you are going to use the hips in order to illuminate the premises, then there is the possibility of installing window openings for the attic exclusively. A similar method is more difficult during the installation of mansard roof elements, as well as during the construction of interiors inside. However, costs are reduced during such roofing due to the absence of gables. In a brick building, the savings will be much more noticeable, because the cost of the construction work itself on the installation of wall fences, as well as the cost of materials in such a house, is quite high in itself.

The device of the mansard roof in the house occurs from the moment of measuring the roof, its shapes and sizes. There has already been mention of the selection of the type of rafter systems (hip four-slope or dual-slope). After that, you need to make a choice of a slope, straight or broken. Among the disadvantages of a broken slope are such as an increase in cost, as well as the complexity of the process itself. However, the use of this method can be easily justified by the need to increase the height of the room itself due to the fact that the angle of inclination at the attic roof will change.

During the design phase, it is necessary to determine the optimal slope of the attic roof. This choice will depend on the roofing material used, which imposes certain restrictions, as well as ergonomic considerations.

Before proceeding with the construction of the attic:

1. It is very important to make calculations of all its bearing elements for strength and bending.
2. In addition, it is necessary to choose the composition from which the roofing cake will be made.
3. It is necessary to make calculations of heat engineering and select materials.

Design

The list of structural components of the main load-bearing elements:

Do-it-yourself construction of a mansard roof of a house should occur with the selection of sections for all roof frame structures. The material must be selected taking into account the following conditions:

• The tree must be coniferous, i.e. suitable larch, pine or spruce.
• Must be first or second grade materials.
• More than fifteen percent humidity is not allowed.
• It is necessary to treat all boards, as well as bars with antiseptics before starting the construction process.

Heat engineering calculation process

In order to keep the heat in the house, it is necessary to select the insulation and its thickness. Often, mineral wool is used for rooms with an attic. You can also use polyurethane foam, ecowool, polystyrene or expanded polystyrene foam. As soon as you decide on the material for thermal insulation, you need to choose its thickness.

When choosing a thickness, it is necessary to take into account the rafter height. This rafter height must be greater than (or equal to) the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. In the case of mineral wool, it will be necessary to provide a ventilation gap of fifty millimeters thick between the roof covering and the heat-insulating surface. In the event that the rafter sections are small, to fulfill this requirement, it is necessary to mount the counter-lattice.

Before the process of building an attic with your own hands, there is the possibility of manually calculating heat engineering, using the joint venture thermal protection of buildings. However, it is best to use special programs.

You should be very careful when designing the attic of the house, because the flaws in the calculations, together with the incorrect parameters of the structures of the truss system, will cause the roof itself to be damaged and, along with it, the walls of the house during its operation.

It is advisable to leave the design of the attic at home to professionals. In addition, you can use specialized programs on a computer, with their help, perform calculations of truss systems, the optimal angle of inclination of the attic, as well as many other parameters. All these calculations are made according to the SNiP of loads and impacts.

In the process of choosing an attic project, it is very important to pay attention to the dependence of the angle of the attic slope and the parameters of the room itself. The premises of a residential building should be no higher than two point two tenths of a metre. If the mansard roof has straight slopes, the angle of these roofs will have a major impact on the overall width of the room itself.

Skylights, their height and roofing cake

A broken attic makes it possible to greatly expand the room, while setting the desired height at the ceilings. At the same time, the rafter bottom is at a sixty-degree angle, and the angle of inclination of the rafter top can be chosen at will.

When taking on the attic roof with your own hands, it is very important to foresee what materials will be used to install the roof pie, this must be done at the design stage. These materials will include:

• Steam insulation
• Waterproofing
• roofing material
• insulation

Insulation. His choice will affect such an important parameter as the rafter step. To save thermal insulation material, it is recommended to lay truss systems so that the mat or slab runs very tightly between these systems. The type of your lathing will depend on what kind of roofing you choose for yourself - will it be sparse or solid, as well as the step of the lathing, if it is sparse. What is important is the arrangement of the mansard roof on the floor, which involves the addition of good quality insulation, as well as a properly functioning ventilation system in the mansard roof.

Necessary tools and materials

Materials and tools

In order for the construction of roofing and rafter systems to be safe, it must be carried out using clean, environmentally friendly and fire-safe materials. Processing of wooden materials occurs with the help of fire protection and bioprotection. For to build a truss system in your house with your own hands, you will need:

1. wooden beam, section 50x100mm;
2. wooden board 150x50mm;
3. unedged wooden board;
4. 80 nails, as well as self-tapping screws and other fasteners;
5. annealed wire with a diameter of three or four millimeters;
6. level;
7. plumb;
8. roulettes;
9. hacksaws;
10. axes;
11. hammers;
12. carpentry knives.

If you use high-quality tools during construction, this will greatly speed up and make it easier to install wood structures. You can also find various video instructions for doing such work step by step.

Do-it-yourself attic construction stages

The hand-made erection of a mansard roof has some differences from an ordinary pitched roof only by the presence of heat-insulating elements. Protective layers for insulation also go into the pie. Here is the procedure:

In order not to make mistakes during construction, it is required to consider in detail the instructions for each item, you can also find video instructions.

The construction of the attic floor is possible both during the construction of the house itself, and after, if these actions were not planned initially. In both cases, a do-it-yourself attic is a good way.

Arrangement of the attic floor with attic walls

With an attic wall, as a rule, an attic installation is done with, as in the diagram above. In the case of the manufacture of a hipped sloping roof, such walls can not be built. The design provides the height necessary for comfortable use of the room.

Do-it-yourself frame attic: construction is carried out from wood, there is no need to attach attic walls

Reinforcing lining of the walls of the attic floor

Now you need to perform the reinforcing strapping of the walls. Its installation is mandatory, regardless of whether we laid out the attic walls or not. This will ensure the strength of the structure made of aerated concrete or brick, and will not allow it to spread to the sides. Also, due to the strapping of the floor, the Mauerlat will be attached, on which, in turn, we will be built.

The reinforcing strapping is made monolithic, and goes inextricably along the entire perimeter of the walls. It is assembled from longitudinal reinforcement bars intercepted by clamps. In the figure below you can see what this design looks like. The distance between the longitudinal rods may vary depending on the thickness of the walls.

How to build an attic: an armored belt device in cross section

Important: reinforcing strapping should be connected only with clamps, welding cannot be used. The construction of the building will never be 100% static, and even with small movements, the welded strapping can break. The use of clamps will give the armored belt the necessary elasticity.

We arrange a fixed formwork for strapping. To do this, we use either U-shaped blocks, as in the upper part of the picture, or, if the walls are brick, we make a prefabricated formwork. You can see both options in the photo.

Do-it-yourself attic: photo of laying the frame of the armored belt in the formwork of foam blocks

When the strapping frame is laid in the formwork, we install studs or anchors with a thread and a nut into it for the subsequent installation of the Mauerlat. Studs must be taken with a diameter of 12 mm, the distance between them is 1.0 m.

Attic device: the reinforcing belt is poured with concrete, anchors are visible from the outside

Important: between the frame and the outer wall of the formwork, it is necessary to lay a layer of insulation. In the future, it will have to dock with, so the material should be the same there and there. Thermal insulation should protrude to the surface in the thickness of the Mauerlat.

We fill the frame with concrete and wait for it to solidify completely, after which it will be possible to continue construction.

Superstructure of the attic floor: an armored belt with insulation is installed on the attic wall

Now we are building the pediments. They can be both with windows and without them - in this case, window openings are made in. After that, you can proceed with the installation of Mauerlat. In the photo you see the construction of the attic floor with your own hands with the construction of attic walls.

Do-it-yourself attic, photo taken at the stage of building gables

Do-it-yourself attic: the video contains useful information that you should study before starting construction.

Mauerlat installation

Mauerlat is made of timber with a cross section of 150 mm. If there are no bars of the required length, then we connect several short ones using anchors. In the bars we drill holes for the anchor, which we previously installed in the armored belt of the attic floor.

We lay a layer of moisture insulation on the armored belt. For this purpose, roofing material cut into ribbons is suitable. The material is overlapped and fused. Now we lay the Mauerlat so that the anchors enter the holes made for them, tighten everything with bolts from above. We leave the structure to stand for two or three days, then we tighten the bolts again. The figure below shows the scheme of fastening the Mauerlat to the armored belt of the attic floor.

Attic design: installation of a Mauerlat frame

If the house is built from a log, then the Mauerlat installation is not required, the rafters will rest against the upper logs of the bearing walls.

How to properly attach the attic floor: the emphasis of the rafters on the log of the bearing wall

Do-it-yourself attic construction: Mauerlat mounting video.

Important: before installation, the Mauerlat bars, like the entire truss system, must be treated with an antiseptic composition. If this is not done, the frame will be susceptible to fungal infections and decay, which is fraught with a loss of strength for it, and, consequently, the destruction of the entire structure of the mansard roof.

Now that the installation of the Mauerlat has been completed, you can start building and laying thermal insulation on the gables and walls and finishing work.

We make the superstructure of the attic floor

The construction of an attic, unplanned earlier, will give you some trouble: here is the construction itself, and obtaining permission for it. However, the result will fully justify the effort. Despite some time and financial costs, building an attic with your own hands will be more profitable than purchasing a separate house or apartment.

Important: before making an attic on an old house in which it was not planned, you must first find out if this is possible. The extension will increase the load on the walls and foundation of the house, and to assess their bearing capacity, you will have to call a specialist who will make the necessary

Construction work on the attic floor

After all permissions for the superstructure have been obtained and its drawing has been made, you can proceed with the construction. First of all, we need to dismantle the roof and the old truss system, and then the gables of the floor. The latter are disassembled due to the fact that we will need to increase them in height.

Raising the gables should be carried out to the height of the Mauerlat, approximately two bricks, or to the height of the attic wall, if one is to be built. The picture shows what it will look like. Alternatively, stone gables can be replaced with sip panels, so you reduce the load on the foundation and walls.

We build an attic with our own hands: raising the gables

The next moment of the superstructure of the unplanned attic floor is the installation of the Mauerlat. If we are building an attic with an attic wall, then further steps can be taken according to the technology described above for complex construction. If this wall is not built, then the Mauerlats will have to be fixed with brackets and wooden plugs. In the picture below you can see how this can be done.

How to make an attic with your own hands: fastening Mauerlat with brackets

Important: the bars for the construction of the Mauerlat should be as long as possible. The fewer butt joints there are, the stronger the whole structure will be. In addition, if the Mauerlat is made under the frame roof and has the shape of a closed frame, then it must be reinforced with brackets in the corners.

Modern people try to use the area of ​​their home as efficiently as possible. Therefore, the proposal to equip additional space under the roof is always met with enthusiasm. It is much easier to plan the construction of an attic at the stage of building a house, but you can make an additional superstructure above the old building.

How to make an attic on an old house

The presence of an attic not only increases the living space, but also gives the building a colorful look.

The attic turns a country house into a fabulous building

An old house can be updated by building a superstructure in accordance with existing standards.

The attic superstructure begins with calculations of the strength of the old house

First you need to decide whether the existing foundation and walls can withstand the load of the attic floor and the new roof. If they have a sufficient margin of safety, then you can start remodeling the house. Otherwise, they should be strengthened.

Old brick walls sometimes seem strong, but with additional stress, cracks may appear in the mortar over time. Therefore, it is necessary to immediately consider their condition, and, if necessary, tie them with a rigid belt. This is done as follows:

• metal poles with a section of 10x10 cm are inserted into the foundation with the lower edge, and connected with the armored belt of the first floor with the upper edge. Installed around the perimeter of the house every 2 meters;
• metal fittings with a cross section of 12 mm are placed in strakes and tie the house along the walls: from the bottom of the window every 2 meters up;
• a metal mesh with a cell size of 2x2 cm is laid on top of the reinforcement, which, after completion of all work, is covered with plaster.

Strengthening the foundation is carried out by tying with a reinforcing belt from all sides.

If the old foundation cannot withstand the attic, then it must be sheathed with reinforcement

Having decided on the strengthening of the building, you can proceed to the choice of the project of the future superstructure. It should look harmonious against the background of other buildings and match the style of the whole house.

The type of mansard roof will determine the calculation of the dimensions of the inner upper room and the necessary materials for construction

There are several types of attics:

• single-level with a gable roof - low ceilings with a small living space;

  A single-level attic with a gable roof is the simplest type of superstructure for small buildings

• single-level with a sloping gable roof - increased interior space, but serious costs and time for construction;

  A single-level attic with a broken gable roof is usually built on a brick house

• single-level with cantilever extensions - a complex structure that allows you to get even more area, since the attic frame extends beyond the building, and the windows are installed vertically;

  A single-level attic with cantilever extensions allows you to get a lot of internal space by increasing the upper structure

• multi-level with mixed roof support - used in the construction of a new house, built only by specialists.

  A multi-level attic with a mixed roof support on old houses is usually not installed due to the complexity and large amount of work.

Video: converting half of the old roof into an attic - an easy way

Alteration of the roof under the attic is a relatively cheap way to increase living space. In a private house, a pitched roof is usually placed, so you can make an additional spacious and bright room with your own hands.

Internal wood paneling makes the attic warm and bright

And if the house is large enough in length, then the attic can turn into a real floor: with several rooms and even a balcony.

A large attic allows you to divide the area into different residential areas

Advantages of creating an attic:

• the possibility of arranging one or more new living rooms;

  An attic with low ceilings under a gable roof is most conveniently furnished with low sunbeds

• low costs compared to the construction of a full-fledged floor or a side extension to the house;
• renovation of the exterior of the building;

  A house with an attic under construction always attracts the eyes of passers-by and is interested in the final result.

• the opportunity to observe a beautiful view from the attic window.

  A lot of sunlight comes through the windows in the attic, illuminating the room all day

However, this solution also has certain disadvantages that must also be taken into account:

• the need for insulation and soundproofing of the ceiling and a new roof, the installation of several double-glazed windows;
• the difficulty of conducting additional heating and lighting in the upper part of the old house - you will have to combine it with home wiring or use an autonomous connection;

  To heat the attic with access to the balcony, you can use a potbelly stove

• layout of a part of the home space under the stairs leading to the attic;

  The stairs leading to the attic must be fenced for safety.

• the need to purchase special furniture for a sloping roof or purchase squat models: low cabinets, sofas and tables.

  Low furniture is best suited for attic interiors

The presence of sloping walls makes the room unusual and romantic, but with this decision you will have to take a more responsible approach to design development. You can make furniture for an inclined superstructure yourself or assemble a single complex from existing multi-level models, painting everything in one color.

Furniture that repeats the slope of the attic can be made independently

So, the main disadvantage of converting an attic into an attic is the need to invest, but it's worth it.

Building an attic will cost much less than creating an additional floor, regardless of what materials will be used to build the walls. Indeed, to create them, you will need the main material, insulation and decoration, while for the attic superstructure you only need roof insulation and a new truss system.

The superstructure is made in a symmetrical or asymmetrical shape. Internal walls are designed both inclined and vertical.

Having studied the schemes of single-level attics with different types of roofs, it is easier to make a choice when planning

Alteration of the attic into an attic does not require the dismantling of all existing structures. But you need to make sure that the ceiling is reliable: check its condition, reinforce it with wooden or metal beams, sheathe it with a new board. Then it will be able to withstand the weight of furniture and people.

For frequent climbing to the attic, you will need to make a comfortable staircase, provide for the installation of ventilation, natural and artificial lighting, and perform interior decoration - all this will create a cozy and comfortable room.

The sloping roof superstructure, decorated in light colors, visually enlarges the space, while splashes of color add brightness to the interior.

When building an attic floor, the following conditions must be met:

• rafters are made of glued timber with a thickness of at least 250 mm so that the required amount of insulation can be laid;
• foamed polystyrene is used for insulation due to its low weight and high thermal insulation characteristics;
• a gap is left between the thermal insulation and the roofing material to provide natural ventilation;
• a hydro- and sound-proof layer must be laid.

Alteration of the roof under the attic do it yourself

During the construction of a house, there is usually not enough money, so many refuse to build a second floor. Or another situation may arise when an old one-story house of a small area is purchased along with the site. In both cases, there is an affordable option for increasing the place to live - do-it-yourself restructuring of the attic space into an attic.

Create a project

Before starting work, you need to draw up a plan and develop a project with accurate drawings. The correct calculation will allow you to get a cozy, durable and reliable room. You can perform all the calculations yourself or entrust it to specialists.

You can draw a plan and develop a draft design yourself by studying various options on the Internet

Strengthening the walls and foundation may be necessary in the event of a complete replacement of the rafters. If the roof is partially redone, then reinforcement may be needed only for overlapping. You also need to immediately decide what types of windows will be used in the attic: the reinforcement in the truss system will depend on this.

The location of all windows in the attic roof must be thought out in advance and this data entered into the project plan

truss system

Rafters can be layered or hanging. The former rest on the inner walls of the house or additional supports, and the latter on the outer walls.

In the attic, layered and hanging rafters are used.

Hanging rafters are best suited for the attic.

An attic with hanging rafters looks prettier and wins in the size of the internal area

The attic usually occupies the entire space of the attic, and its walls are combined with the outer ones.

The best option for creating an attic is a layered truss system.

The rafter system consists of different load-bearing bars. To understand the structure of the entire structure and build it correctly, you need to understand the purpose and operation of its individual elements.

The image of the individual elements of the truss system helps to understand the structure of the entire structure

Refurbishment of the premises

With a sufficient height of the attic, the truss system does not need to be redone. It is enough to inspect the old rafters, identify possible flaws and eliminate them.

If the truss system is in good condition, you can proceed to the arrangement of the floor. Insulation is first laid between the lags, after which the surface is sheathed with ordinary boards or sheets of OSB, chipboard.

The floor in the attic is insulated and covered with boards

Before laying the insulation, all necessary communications are mounted between the rafters, places are cut in the roof for installing windows. carried out before warming.

All wires and pipes of communications must be placed in special corrugations

Care must be taken to create natural ventilation of the under-roof space through the vents so that moisture does not accumulate inside the room.

Roof insulation

It is necessary to insulate the roof correctly and efficiently - the microclimate under the roof will depend on this. Typically, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or sprayed polyurethane foam is used as insulation.

A thick layer of heat insulator is tightly laid and fixed between the rafters so that there are no gaps or gaps anywhere. On the upper part of the roof - between the roof and the insulation - waterproofing is mounted, then heat-insulating material is laid from the side of the room. Then from the inside the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film.

For better ventilation, a small distance is left between the roofing material and the insulation: this is how air circulates through the holes in the cornice and ridge. If the roof is covered with corrugated sheets, then the thickness of the gap should be 25 mm, if with flat material, then it should be increased to 50 mm.

When creating attic thermal insulation, it is necessary to strictly observe the sequence of layers

When planning an ascent to the attic, you need to take care of the convenience and safety of movement. Therefore, the ladder is usually mounted inside the house. It is constructed from wood or metal: it can be either a screw or a marching structure.

The staircase to the attic can be of different types and designs, which allows it to fit into any interior.

An opening is cut in the ceiling of the first floor, which is reinforced along the perimeter with metal or wooden strapping.

The design of the stairs to the attic must be durable, reliable, safe and beautiful.

Interior decoration

For wall cladding, in most cases, gypsum boards are used, the seams between them are plastered. Wallpaper is glued on top or decorative plaster is applied. An alternative option is lining or natural wood.

If some rafters protrude through the walls into the attic, then they can be designed as decorative elements and even used as a horizontal bar for hanging a hammock, swing, chandelier and other fixtures.

The design of the visible parts of the rafters in the interior of the attic is an interesting and creative business.

It is not recommended to use heavy finishing materials in the attic, as they increase the load on the walls, ceiling and foundation of the building.

There are many options for interior decoration of the attic, but it is advisable to use only light materials.

To cover the floor, you can use a laminate or linoleum, and it is better to refuse tiles or porcelain stoneware.

Roof of the attic floor

The roof of a residential superstructure should consist of the following layers (in order - from the street to the interior):

Video: why and how to properly lay layers on the roof of the attic

Mansard roof calculations for a house

Determination of the total weight of the roof

To calculate the total weight of roofing materials, it is necessary to multiply the specific gravity of one square meter of coverage by the total area of ​​​​the attic roof. To obtain the weight of one square meter, it is necessary to add up the specific gravity of all the materials that make up the roofing cake, and multiply it by the safety factor (1.1).

If the thickness of the crate is 25 mm, then its specific gravity is 15 kg / m 2, a 10 cm thick insulation has a specific gravity of 10 kg / m 2, and ondulin roofing material has a weight of 3 kg / m 2. It turns out: (15 + 10 + 3) x1.1 \u003d 30.8 kg / m 2.

According to existing standards, the load on the ceiling in a residential building should not exceed 50 kg / m 2.

Roof area determination

To calculate the surface of a sloping roof, you need to break it into simple shapes (square, rectangle, trapezium, etc.) and determine their area, and then add everything up. To determine the surface of a gable roof, it is necessary to multiply the length by the width, multiply the resulting value by two.

Table: determination of the attic roof area

When calculating the angle of inclination, the climatic zone in which the house is located is taken into account, and that it is convenient to move in the attic in full growth

It is also necessary to calculate the slope of the roof. Usually the angle is 45–60 degrees, but when determining it, one must take into account the climatic zone in which the house is located, the type of attic construction, snow, wind loads, and the architectural design of the house.

The greater the angle of inclination of the roof, the less will be the load on the truss system, but the consumption of materials will increase.

Calculation of the truss system

When choosing a truss system, you can stop at the following options:

• hanging rafters;
• oblique type;
• skating run;
• combined design.

If the length of the roof is more than 4.5 m, then support runs and struts can be used for reinforcement. With a length of more than 7 meters, a ridge beam is installed.

For wooden rafters, a bar with a thickness of at least 70 mm is used. The step of their installation should be 50 cm.

On a large area, it is better to fix a metal truss system: due to the increase in the distance between the rafters, the absence of spacers and struts, the weight of such a structure will be less than that of a wooden one, and the strength will increase significantly.

If the attic area is large, then it is better to install metal rafters

Calculation of the required amount of materials

To carry out the calculation, you need to know the following parameters:

• width, thickness and pitch of the rafters;
• distance from the edge of the roof to the rafters;
• the size of the boards for the crate and the step between them;
• size, type of roofing material and overlap between its sheets;
• type of steam, hydro and thermal insulation material.

The roof is divided into simple shapes and the required amount of each of the materials is determined. For this, simple mathematical formulas are used.

The results obtained are converted into standard values: for wood - in cubic meters, for roofing materials, steam, hydro and thermal insulation - in square meters. And you can go to the store.

Common Mistakes

Most often, with self-calculation, errors are obtained during the determination of the required amount of insulation. If the climatic conditions are severe, then its volume will have to be increased, otherwise it will not be possible to create comfortable living conditions in the attic. The insulation is laid on the floor of the house, the walls of the gable and the slopes of the roof. But everywhere the thickness of the insulation can be different.

Video: calculation of a mansard roof with diagrams and loads

The attic floor allows you to get additional living space and gives the private house a modern attractive appearance. It is not difficult to create an attic with your own hands, you just need to draw up a project correctly, perform calculations and carry out high-quality installation of all materials. And the result will please the owners for a long time.

Attic called the roof, under which the living rooms are equipped. The shape of the mansard roof can be different, but most often the attic is equipped under a gable roof. The most rational solution that allows you to get the maximum usable area of ​​\u200b\u200ba residential attic is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.

The stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands are in many ways similar to the construction of a regular one, as well as the names of the elements that make up its frame. These include:

• Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
• Floor beams - boards that form the attic floor and the ceiling of the lower floor;
• Racks - vertical supports supporting the truss system;
• Runs - horizontal supports for rafters;
• Rigel - transverse horizontal elements that pull the roof slopes together, otherwise they are called puffs;
• Rafters - boards that form the main contour of the roof;
• Suspension - a suspension rack that supports puffs and redistributes the load between the rafters;
• Sheathing - boards or sheets of plywood designed for laying roofing over them and transferring the load to the rafter system;
• Filly - boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.

The cross section of the roof elements is determined by calculation, the article presents the most commonly used materials in private construction.

The device of a broken mansard roof and its differences

As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is somewhat different from a simple gable roof. The difference lies in the shape of the opposite slopes: they are not a straight line, but consist of two slopes connected at an obtuse angle. The roof can be either symmetrical or have a different shape of opposite slopes - it depends on the project.

Thanks to the broken shape, the usable volume of the attic space is significantly increased. The lower part of the rafters is usually set at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizontal, and the support posts supporting these rafters act as the frame of the interior walls. The upper part of the rafters is most often installed at a slight angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this allows you to save materials, but maintain the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.

Vertical racks resting on floor beams, girders and puffs connecting them form a parallelepiped that limits the internal dimensions of the attic. To give the structure additional rigidity, struts are installed between the floor beams and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters, to strengthen the truss and eliminate the sagging of the crossbars, hanging supports - grandmas are installed. To further strengthen the lower rafters, they are pulled together with racks using contractions. The elements are fastened with nails and bolts or studs.

Calculation of the dimensions of the mansard roof

The main condition for a comfortable attic device is the height of the ceilings - it should not be lower than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the break line of the mansard roof must be at a height of at least 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and the inner lining of the attic, as well as the thickness of the finishing floors.

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials and the construction of the roof, it is necessary to draw a detailed drawing, which will indicate the overall dimensions of the house, the line of slopes and the height of the attic.

Drawing - mansard roof dimensions

The technology of erecting a broken mansard roof

1. Install the Mauerlat around the perimeter of the house. In wooden buildings, the upper beam or log serves as the Mauerlat. In stone - brick or block - structures, the Mauerlat beam is attached to studs or anchors fixed in the walls during masonry at a distance of no more than 2 meters. The Mauerlat is leveled along the inner plane of the wall, the wall remaining outside is later laid with decorative masonry. Mauerlat timber from dry softwood usually has a section of 100 or 150 mm. Saw off the beam of the desired length, straighten the anchor studs if necessary and lay the beam on top of them. Lightly tapping with a hammer. Dents from the studs remain on the beam, a hole of the required diameter is drilled through them. You can also mark the beam with a tape measure, but the probability of error in this case is higher. A rolled waterproofing is laid on the wall, you can use an ordinary roofing material in two layers. Mauerlat is put on the studs and the nuts are tightened.

   

2. For floor beams, coniferous timber with a section of 100x200 mm is usually used. Floor beams are placed either on top of the Mauerlat with an exit beyond the plane of the walls by 0.3-0.5 meters, or in specially designed pockets in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are fixed with corners and self-tapping screws. To make the floors even, the beams are laid in strict sequence: first, the extreme ones in level, then, pulling the cord, they align the intermediate ones along them. The step of the floor beams is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient step is 60 cm, which allows you to lay the insulation boards without trimming. To equalize the height of the beams, they are hemmed or board linings are used. If the beams are placed in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be treated with coating waterproofing and wrapped with roofing material. Align them in the same way.
3. Racks are installed on the extreme floor beams. The end posts are made of timber 100x150 mm, the height and installation line of the posts is determined according to a previously prepared drawing. Racks are leveled using a level and a plumb line and temporarily fixed with jibs in perpendicular directions - along and across the axis of the roof. This will allow you to install the racks without deviations in any direction. The jibs are made from any board and nailed. A cord is pulled between the extreme drains and the rest of the racks are set along it with a step equal to the step of the floor beams, that is, for each beam. All racks are fixed in the same way as the extreme ones. You should end up with two rows of uprights of the same height, running parallel to each other.

   

4. Runs from a board 50x150 mm are laid and fixed on racks, runs are fixed on nails 150 mm and on corners using self-tapping screws. Crossbars from a 50x200 mm board are placed on the runs with the narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since there will be no load on the crossbar during operation, this section of the board is quite enough, however, in order to exclude their deflection and increase reliability during installation, when installing the crossbars, temporary supports from the board are placed under them no thinner than 25 mm. On top of the crossbar, they are fastened with one or two boards - also temporarily, before the installation of the rafters. At the same time, the boards should not be placed in the middle of the puff - there they will interfere with further installation, but retreating about 30 cm. After installing the racks, girders and crossbars, you get a rigid structure that limits the interior of the attic. To increase its strength, it is subsequently fixed with struts and contractions.
5. Installed from a board 50x150 mm. First, a template is made from a 25x150 mm board - it is easier and faster to process. A board of the required length is applied to the upper run, washed down the shape directly on the board and cut out. A template is applied to the run at the installation sites of the rafters, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all rafters can be made according to the template. The lower part, which rests on the Mauerlat next to the floor beams, is cut out in place each time. The rafters are fixed with corners and self-tapping screws and on nails.

   

6. To perform the upper rafters, it is necessary to mark the center of the roof. This can be done with the help of a temporary stand nailed to the Mauerlat and an extreme tightening from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board runs along the center line of the roof. The rafters are aligned along this edge. Next, a template is prepared from a 25x150 mm board, applying it to the edge of the installed board at the desired level and to the run on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the top and bottom cuts and cut out the template. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then there should be no problems with installing the upper rafters - they will all have the same size.
7. According to the template, the required number of rafter legs is performed. The rafters are installed on the girders and connected in the upper part with the help of overhead metal plates or board scraps for self-tapping screws. In the run, the rafters rest on the cuts and are fixed on the corners. In order for the rafters to stand straight, they are fixed with the help of struts installed with the lower end on puffs. So put all the rafters. Hanging racks are attached - pieces of board 25x150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge - to the puff.
8. They put struts under the lower rafters from a 50x150 mm board, resting them with their lower oblique cut against the floor beam and fixing them on the corners, and the upper edge is attached to the side of the rafter leg, nailed to one or two nails, after which a through hole is drilled and fixed to a bolt or stud . After installing the lower struts, remove all temporary supports and racks.
9. Gables are sewn up, leaving door and window openings. If the floor beams are laid in the pockets of the walls, fillies are attached to the lower rafters - boards that continue the line of the rafters and form a roof overhang. When laying floors on top of the Mauerlat, the beams already protrude to the required distance, and there is no need for fillies.
10. corresponding to the type of roofing - solid or sparse. Waterproofing is placed on the crate and the roofing is installed, for example,.

A sloping mansard roof usually does not need insulation - only the walls and ceiling of the attic are insulated. The air space formed under the rafters ensures good ventilation of the attic, reduces the heating of the attic rooms in summer and provides additional thermal insulation in winter. Therefore, when sewing gables, it is important to leave ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the floors of the attic floor.

Video - instructions for building a mansard roof