Ground cucumbers: the correct method of cultivation. Choosing a variety of cucumbers for planting and growing

Cucumber is one of the vegetables that is quite easy to grow if the right conditions are provided. This is a heat-loving culture, therefore, first of all, it is required to observe temperature regime and give the cucumbers enough light. All this is easy to achieve in a greenhouse, but how to meet such requirements when planting in open ground?

The first task is to choose the right variety. Not all cucumbers can adapt to the harsh conditions outside the greenhouse, and some varieties won't even germinate, let alone produce. On the other hand, some species are intended only for planting outside greenhouses and in the open they will give more yield than under a greenhouse film. There are also universal varieties that perform well in all conditions.

Seedless sowing

The easiest way to grow cucumbers is to sow the seeds in the soil. On the one hand, you do not have to spend time growing seedlings, but you will have to wait longer for the harvest, which, moreover, may not be very rich.

You can increase the yield and percentage of germination by hardening the seeds:

1. Seeds prepared for planting are placed on gauze, which in turn is placed on the bottom of a flat dish filled with water.
2. From above, the seeds are also covered with gauze.
3. After some time, when the seeds swell, the dishes with the seeds are placed in the refrigerator for two to three days (provided that the temperature in the refrigerator is not lower than -3 degrees).
4. After this period, the seeds can be planted.

The best time for planting is at the end of May, when the soil warms up to +15-+17 degrees, but these dates may vary depending on the region. Such seeds are planted at a distance of 50-60 centimeters, the sowing depth should not exceed two centimeters. Considering that the percentage of seed germination with this method is not high, it is better to put several seeds in one hole at once, and if all of them sprout at once, the weakest and sickest should be removed. Such shoots are not pulled out, but carefully cut off.

The seedless method has one advantage: when transplanting seedlings into the ground, there is always a risk of damaging the root system, as a result of which the plant may stop developing or turn into a barren flower, and may also produce a small or poor-quality crop. On the other hand, this can be avoided by just being careful, and given the fact that many seeds die when planted directly in the ground, this advantage is leveled.

Video - All about growing cucumbers. Planting seeds in the ground

Growing seedlings for open ground

When preparing seedlings, it is important to choose three or four varieties, and not stop at one. Especially if this is the first experience or cucumbers have not yet been planted in the selected area.

Seeds cannot be immediately planted in the soil - they must be “warmed up” by holding them on the windowsill near the battery for about 30 days.

Growing seedlings of cucumbers

Then the seeds are placed in a bowl of water, where they should hatch. By the way, floating seeds can be immediately caught and thrown away - they will not germinate. The remaining seeds will hatch in about a day or two, and during this time you need to prepare the soil for planting:

1. Sawdust, peat and humus are mixed in a ratio of 1:2:2
2. Added to the resulting mass wood ash at the rate of "a tablespoon of ash per 10 liters of the mixture."
3. All this is thoroughly mixed and scattered in small pots, in which germinated seeds are planted.
4. When sprouts appear, the dishes are exposed to a bright place.

When two leaves appear on the sprouts, fertilizing with a solution of nitrophoska begins (add two teaspoons per three liters of water). Water must be warm, heated to a temperature of 25 degrees. Seedlings need to be watered once a week.

Seedlings are ready to plant when the stem is thick and strong and the leaves are dark green. For each variety, such a preparatory period is individual.

Video - Growing seedlings of cucumbers at home

Soil preparation

Good seedlings in poor soil will not give the expected harvest, so the planting site also requires preparation, and such work begins in the fall. It is advisable to plant seedlings where potatoes, tomatoes, legumes, cabbage or pepper.

Growing cucumbers where other pumpkins used to grow is permissible no earlier than five years later. Otherwise, cucumbers will grow sluggish and painful, as their "predecessors" impoverish the soil.

In the process of autumn digging up a plot for cucumbers, 5-6 kilograms of manure and 30 grams of any phosphorus-potassium mineral fertilizers are applied per square meter of the plot. If the soil is acidic or slightly acidic, 150-250 grams of lime or ash can be added per square meter.

In the spring, the soil is also dug up, now 2-3 kilograms of compost or humus per square meter are added to it. Also, about 50 grams of any complex mineral fertilizers are added to this area.

This is the most effective method soil preparation, but it is not always possible to comply with such conditions, so you can use the following tips:

1. If the soil has not been prepared since autumn, you can limit yourself to digging in the spring, but then you need to increase the amount of humus and compost introduced.
2. If there is little humus and there is nowhere to take it - it is not necessary to fertilize the entire plot - it is enough to add it to the planting holes.
3. The soil should always be kept clean of weeds and fertilized annually - this will reduce the amount of mineral fertilizers used.

Proper site selection and planting

When planting cucumbers on open ground, not only the quality of the soil is important, but also other factors. Planting cucumbers in a place where other pumpkins have grown in the last five years is not worth it, not only because Low quality soil. The fact is that if previous plants had some kind of disease, pathogens must have accumulated in the soil. But if other cultures are resistant to such diseases, then cucumbers related to pumpkins and zucchini will certainly suffer.

You must also comply with the following requirements:

• the place should be well lit, the beds should not be covered from the sun by trees or buildings on the site;
• cucumber beds should be protected from the wind;
• on absolutely open areas it is recommended to plant tall plants in a circle - legumes, corn, sunflowers, which will protect the cucumbers from the winds;
• the plot should be large enough so that the distance between the bushes is at least 50 centimeters.

If the site is not very large, and there are a lot of seedlings, you should not reduce the distance between plants. Instead, you can just plant them in a checkerboard pattern. All beds must be cleared of weeds, and this procedure must be performed regularly.

The beds must be periodically loosened, but not deeper than three centimeters, so as not to damage the root system.

Video - How to plant cucumbers in the ground

Watering

The most difficult thing in growing cucumbers on the ground is watering. It is necessary to strictly observe the timing (every 5-6 days) and the amount of water (within 2-4 liters per square meter, depending on the soil). After the start of flowering, watering is done every two to three days, while the amount of water increases to 8-10 liters per meter. And most importantly, the water should not be cold, as heat-loving cucumbers begin to get sick from low temperatures. For this reason, while cucumbers do not bear fruit, they must be watered manually, from a container in which the water settles in advance and warms up to a temperature of + 18- + 20 degrees.

Water should always be sufficient, especially during the period of fruit formation. Otherwise, the crop will taste bitter. At the same time, an excess of water will lead to rotting of the root system and death of the plant. It is very easy to determine the excess or lack of water visually: the pale green color of the leaves indicates that there is too much moisture. If the leaves are dark and brittle, then there is not enough water.

top dressing

Top dressing of cucumbers begins from the moment two full-fledged leaves appear at the seedling stage and can continue until autumn, depending on the quality of the soil. This procedure is necessary in order to:

• cucumbers grew faster and began to bear fruit earlier;
• the number of fruits increased;
• the fruiting period was extended;
• improved taste qualities fruits.

In addition, fertilizers allow plants to strengthen their immunity and protect them from diseases, and for cucumbers, as for whimsical plants, this is extremely important. Standard top dressing occurs in two stages: at the seedling stage, and then every two weeks after planting in the ground. Three common types of top dressing are considered safe and economical:

1. Filling the fertilizer container cow dung a third and two-thirds are added with water, leaving about a week and a half for fermentation. The finished fertilizer is diluted with two parts of water before use.
2. The second method is identical to the first, but in this case chicken manure is used instead of manure, and finished fertilizer diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 3.
3. 10 grams per 10 liters ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt. This amount is enough to process one square meter soil (about 4-5 plants).

Yellow leaves - a sign of lack of fertilizer

The lack of fertilizer is easy to determine by yellowing leaves and dropping ovaries.

Diseases of cucumbers in the open field

Most often, cucumbers planted in open ground are susceptible to fungal diseases (gray, white, root rot, ascochitosis, bacteriosis and others). If accept necessary measures in a timely manner - plants can be cured on initial stage. If the disease progresses and is not treatable, diseased plants will have to be cut and disposed of. Such stems must be cut and burned - just dump them in compost heap it is impossible, since fungal spores can spread throughout the site.

Most often, the first symptoms of diseases are easily eliminated by spraying with a solution. blue vitriol, but if it is possible to determine clear signs a specific disease - it is worth using certain methods.

So, if gray and black spots appear on the leaves and fruits, and the growth of the fruits stops and they themselves bend and become crooked - this is fungal disease cladosporiosis. Such plants must be sprayed with preparations based on benzimidazoles.

Another common disease - powdery mildew - manifests itself in the form white plaque on the leaves, and after a while the plant dies. In most cases, this disease comes from weeds, so it is necessary to keep the beds in order and clean, and if powdery mildew does appear, spraying with fungicides will help.

Yellow bloom or spots on the leaves and their subsequent drying is a sign of peronosporosis. The disease is also a consequence of a large number of weeds and is treated similarly to the previous one. If the fruits of such a plant are planned to be used for planting next year, the seeds are subject to mandatory dressing with potassium permanganate.

If you follow all the recommendations, do not skip watering, remove weeds in time and properly prepare the soil, even novice gardeners will not have problems with cucumbers. And the reward for such an attitude towards your garden will always be big harvest delicious cucumbers, which can be enjoyed already a month and a half after planting the seedlings (provided that early ripening varieties are used).

Most species already planted various vegetables which perfectly tolerate cool weather: beets, potatoes, carrots. In mid-May, warm weather gradually begins to set in the street. This period is just perfect for planting cucumbers in open ground. But if it's still cold outside, then you need to use by special means protection and cover the cucumbers after planting with a film or agril.

Cucumbers can be planted both in sprouted form and simple seeds. The advantage of a germinated cucumber is that it starts to yield faster, but it is more difficult for it to take root in new conditions. For germination, cucumbers are planted in April in small jars, for example, from under mayonnaise and placed in a sunny place in the house.

Planting cucumbers in open ground

Cucumbers are generally thermophilic plants. Therefore, the location of the landing site should be on sunny side your garden.

It is better to prepare the soil in advance. Make the necessary complex fertilizers and definitely overkill. How to spill the earth with water.

Cucumber seedlings are planted at a distance of 10 centimeters from each other, no need to part, they love space. If you plant sprouted cucumbers, then make a hole about five centimeters deep, and the seeds are deepened two centimeters into the ground.

After a week and a half, the cucumbers will sprout and will delight the owner's eyes. If the cucumber bed was covered with material, it should be removed only after the establishment of warm weather over 20 degrees.

Water cucumbers daily personal plot. They love moisture and lack of it can be detrimental.

A mandatory requirement when growing cucumbers is to pinch out excess upper shoots and remove them.

When the cucumbers have reached the required length, create a frame for them from planks or twigs along which they will trail. Or you can put posts around the edges, connect them with a bar and tie the plants with ropes.

In principle, cucumbers are not a particularly whimsical plant in terms of caring for them, but loosening and weeding the soil under them should be done regularly. It is also good to feed on time, for example, with a solution based on chicken manure.

By investing their time and effort in sowing and caring for cucumbers, every gardener wants to get a decent harvest. But what if there is a small “patch” of free space for a cucumber bed?

The yield of cucumbers, depending on the variety and growing conditions, can reach 500-800 kg per hundred square meters. Excellent results, but not the limit. And how do you like the idea of ​​​​getting more than 1 harvest per year?

Most popular varieties are intended only for greenhouse cultivation and on the open ground, they cannot please the gardener with a good yield. What varieties and hybrids should be chosen in order to end up with record numbers when growing cucumbers in the open field?

1. Crispina. Early ripe hybrid, which is not so common on Russian Federation and many neighboring countries, but is in the register of crops that are recommended for industrial cultivation. Over the past 25 years, it has remained practically unchanged and has not been improved, it is perfectly acclimatized in middle lane and holds up well high temperatures and periods of drought. Suitable not only for eating raw, but also for pickling, salting. The yield reaches 650 c/ha in one season, it is grown mainly in open ground, but is also suitable for greenhouses. Up to 4-5 greens hang on 1 node of the bush, due to which up to 25 kg of products can be collected from one square meter throughout the season.
2. Zozulya F1- a variety of Volgograd selection, acclimatized in almost all regions of Russia, is industrial and successfully exported abroad. The yield reaches 400 kg / ha or up to 10-15 kg from one bush in conditions home growing. Its advantage is excellent resistance to weather conditions, he feels good in the heat (you still have to water), grows in the sun and in the shade. Pinching of lateral shoots is not required, sufficiently resistant to olive blotch, insect pests and many pests characteristic of these vegetables.
3. Emelya. Relatively new variety, which appears on the domestic market for only a few years. During this time, he has proven himself well not only as a greenhouse plant, but also when grown in the garden, as it is resistant to diseases, gives good yields of up to 17-22 kilograms per bush with perfect care. Suitable for canning, consumption at the stage of technical ripeness, salting. It has a fairly dense pulp, crunches when biting, very sweet, for which many gardeners liked it.
4. Krypton. Hybrid introduced in 2012. Zelentsy have a very sweet taste, juicy, small. They are used primarily for conservation and sale, since each fruit has an excellent presentation and the best performance. The yield reaches 35 kg from one bush for the entire season, which is almost a record figure. When grown at home, this figure will decrease significantly, but, nevertheless, the yield will certainly please you! Resistance to different types rot and spotting is high, treatment with pesticides is required only in some cases.

These were the most popular hybrids and varieties with which you can get a record crop of cucumbers in your country house. But remember that only 35% of success depends on the variety, and everything else is your task.

Planting cucumbers in open ground and its features

First of all, you need to decide what aisles you will have. They can be made small, about 50 cm, but then a mandatory garter and careful care of the vine are required. It should be borne in mind that the vegetative growth of the vine is quite fast and in a few weeks it can grow up to 5 meters or more. It is best to plant at a distance of 80-90 centimeters between rows.

The planting process is quite simple and you don’t need to invent anything extra - just dig a shallow trench (10-14 cm) and put the seeds there. Fill the trench and pour plenty of water so that the soil is saturated with moisture, and the seeds can germinate safely. You can still apply fertilizers, but their effectiveness is extremely doubtful at the stage of seed germination. It is best to use a foliar application before flowering or compost well in advance. But this should be done at least 5-6 months before planting, since cucumbers can simply burn out from a high concentration of fertilizers.

Joint sowing is welcome. Moreover, it will be very useful for a vegetable, especially if corn is adjacent to it. Let us consider in more detail all the advantages of this landing method:

1. Corn will protect cucumbers from wind and sun, which will immediately affect their yield and development rate.
2. It will serve as a kind of props and cucumbers can curl along it. This will make it much easier to take care of them.
3. The shade will retain moisture, and the earth will not crack.

It is worth considering that the aisles of corn must be made very wide so that it does not interfere with the harvest, otherwise, 30-40 days after sowing, you will no longer be able to get to either the first crop or the second. Optimal Width row spacing - 150 cm. At the same time, a row of cucumber should go almost in a row of corn, so that the entire row spacing remains for weaving the stem and for the passage of a person.

Secrets that will help increase the yield

Experienced gardeners grow up to 25 kg from one bush and get more than one green crop, but how do they do it? In fact, the secret lies in proper care for vegetables. To do this, you need to learn just a few rules:

1. Add vine roots. Impossible? Actually, it's easier than ever. When the stem appears from the ground and there are already 3 pairs of leaves on it, it is necessary to do hilling - cover the vine with earth to the first leaf, it can be a little higher. Of course, fill it with water again. Additional roots will begin to appear on the vine, which increase absorption (moisture absorption) and provide the plant vitality. It is proved that such plants give 40% more yield than without hilling!
2. Soil loosening. The first 2 weeks of growth of the vine must be loosened upper layer soil to provide more oxygen to the roots. Just do not overdo it - the roots are close to the surface, and you can break them. It is necessary to loosen no more than to a depth of 5 cm. The vine will be much better braided and grow longer. As a result, the yield will increase by 11-13%.
3. Stem pinching. Have you ever pinched cucumbers? And in vain, since this is precisely the main secret that makes it possible to get record harvests. The technology for growing cucumbers does not provide for this procedure in industrial scale because it is very labor intensive. But if you pinch the stem above the fifth leaf, then a large number of side shoots that will give you in the end excellent harvest vegetables!

By doing these simple recommendations, you can more than one and a half times increase the number of collected cucumbers. For example, you can treat 2 bushes planted at the same time in different ways, and you will soon see how much vine care can increase the number of collected cucumbers!

Proper agricultural technology is the key to success

Growing cucumbers in the ground is quite a laborious process, especially if you want to get an above-average yield, and you will not succeed if you do not cut the soil correctly. First of all, it is worth noting that mulching the soil with decomposed manure, peat and organic matter allows you to get a larger crop, but only if you do this 1-1.5 years before planting.

The second point of agricultural technology is harvesting. Do not overexpose the cucumbers on the vine and wait until they "ripe". It is necessary to collect as soon as possible, avoiding their yellowing. The sooner you collect them, the more new ones will be tied - this is worth remembering once and for all. At the same time, you can not damage the vine, because if you step on it, it will begin to supply less organic matter and minerals to the fruits, and they will develop incorrectly.

Watering should be almost constant. In summer, water 1 time in the evening, 1 time in the early morning, or leave the turntable overnight. Do not water during the day - the leaves will immediately burn. Powdery mildew - main enemy cucumber if the summer turned out to be cool. To avoid becoming a "victim" powdery mildew, need to do drip irrigation, or just let water under the very root so that it does not fall on the stem

The best precursors for cucumbers are legumes, as they form a large amount of nitrogen macromolecules in the soil during their growth period. Thus, it remains only to add ammonia and phosphate fertilizers and you will have everything you need to wait for a big harvest of cucumbers. Potatoes, corn, seeds, watermelon, melon and cucumbers themselves are bad predecessors. After them, you need to give the earth a rest or plant beans, for example.

Foliar feeding

Cucumbers in open ground need foliar feeding, which will help to significantly increase the vegetative mass and, in the future, yield. Do not confuse foliar feeding and soil fertilization - these are different concepts. Unlike conventional fertilizers, in this case the plants are sprayed with a solution of urea, potassium, iron and other macronutrients. They fall on the leaves and are immediately absorbed by the plant, stimulate its growth, the formation of fruits. The effect is visible after a few days - the leaves become greener, the stem begins to grow, and the fruits ripen.

Top dressing is done 5 times. The first spraying should be done in the third week of growth. For 10 liters of water, 10 grams of potassium, urea, superphosphate are diluted. A tablespoon of sodium humate is added and all this is thoroughly mixed. The mixture for foliar feeding is already ready, then just spray it on 1-2 acres of area. The next 4 top dressings are produced with the same composition - 2 before flowering, 2 after with a frequency of 5 days. The last few sprays can be done with a different solution: dilute 1 liter of mullein and 10 grams of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water.

If desired, you can buy ready-made concentrates. For example, "Ideal", "Breadwinner", "Ogorodnik" - they are the most popular in the territory of the Russian Federation.

To print

Growing cucumbers in the open field has its own characteristics. If you want to get a good harvest, follow our advice.

Cucumber bed

You need to start preparing the beds in the fall. The soil is dug up to a depth of 30 cm and organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied at the rate of 5 kg per 1 sq.m. If it was not possible to prepare the bed before the onset of cold weather, this can be done in the spring. Then, when digging, humus and compost are introduced, as well as complex mineral fertilizers in accordance with the instructions on the packaging.

A place for cucumbers is chosen sunny and protected from cold northern winds. These are very heat-loving plants and if the temperature drops below 10 ° C, cucumbers completely stop growing. Therefore, it is very important to place them in comfortable conditions.

If you want to get a crop of cucumbers three weeks earlier than usual, you can build for them warm bed or a bed-box. Such designs can definitely protect plants from return frosts and other adverse climatic conditions.

Seed preparation

Before planting, warm and soak the seeds. The process of soaking the seeds is simple, it is carried out approximately 12 hours before sowing. It will take a little longer to warm up. To do this, hang the seeds in a gauze bag. It is advisable to hang near the battery or in the room where the temperature does not fall below 20 ° C. Warming is necessary for the resistance of the plant to various diseases. This has a positive effect on the quality of the crop. Seeds germinate at a temperature of 12-13°C.

Sowing seeds in the ground

When the bed is ready, you can start sowing. First, rows are marked at a distance of 65-75 cm from each other. In each row, at a distance of 20 cm, holes are made up to 4 cm deep. Water is poured into each of them and they wait until it is absorbed. After that, the seeds are laid out in the holes, they are covered with soil and tamped a little.

So that the soil evaporates less moisture and does not form a crust on it, the aisles of the cucumber beds are mulched with sawdust or humus.

Immediately after sowing the seeds, the bed should be covered with a film or spunbond. When the first shoots appear under it, you need to install arcs or other supports and spread covering material on them so that the shoots do not touch it.

Proper care of cucumbers

To make your cucumbers delight you good harvest follow the simple rules.

Rule 1 Cucumber beds should always be free of weeds.

Rule 2 Throughout the growing period, loosen the soil between the rows.

Rule 3 As you grow, tie the shoots to vertical supports.

Rule 4 After the formation of 6-7 leaves, pinch the main stem - this stimulates the branching of cucumbers and increases their yield.

Rule 5 At night, be sure to cover the bed with a film or spunbond (especially while the plants are still young or a cold snap is expected).

Rule 6 Harvest regularly (at least 2-3 times a week). This promotes the formation of new ovaries.

How to water cucumbers

During growth and development, as well as during the fruiting period, cucumbers need a huge amount of water (every 2-3 days 0.5 l per young plant and 1 liter of water per adult). Even short-term drought leads to bitterness.

Before flowering, cucumbers are watered every 5-7 days, when the first inflorescences appear - every 2-4 days, during fruiting - every 3-4 days.

Remember that cucumbers are watered warm water and pour not on the plant itself, but under the roots or between the rows. Cucumbers are not watered from a hose with running water.

If the water is poorly absorbed, the soil in several places can be pierced with a pitchfork.

This will help the water to penetrate deep to the roots and at the same time will not disturb the root system.

How to feed cucumbers

For the entire growing period, cucumbers must be fed 3-4 times. The first top dressing is carried out at the stage of the appearance of the first true sheets with a solution of 1 tbsp. nitrophoska and 1 tbsp. mushy chicken manure per 10 liters of water. The second feeding is carried out when the second true leaf appears, with a solution of 1 tsp. potassium sulfate and 0.5 liters of mullein per 10 liters of water. For 1 sq.m. 4-6 liters of solution are consumed. The third top dressing is carried out according to the same scheme after 15-17 days. It should be noted that foliar feeding will allow plants to absorb nutrients. Therefore, spraying cucumbers with 5 g/l of ammonium nitrate water and urea solution will bring great effect. In order not to burn the leaves, spraying is carried out in the evening.

Harvesting cucumbers

The growing season for cucumbers depends on the variety and ripeness and ranges from 40 to 70 days. Timely harvesting significantly increases fruiting. With regular harvesting, the fruits have a good appearance and excellent taste, fruiting continues for a long time.

The most optimal interval between harvests is 3-4 days. If the fruits grow on the bushes for a very long time, they outgrow, lose their taste and turn yellow. In addition, they deplete the plant and prevent the formation of new fruits.

When harvesting, it is important not to damage the cucumber lashes. It is best to remove the fruit by pressing on the stalk, while leaving part of it on the cucumber in order to prevent damage to the lash.

Experienced gardeners advise picking cucumbers early in the morning, before the fruits have warmed up, and immediately take them indoors to protect them from the sun's rays.

It is necessary to collect all the fruits from the lashes, especially the overgrown ones, because it is they who stop the growth and development of other fruits, and are also the spreaders of diseases.

How to collect cucumber seeds

To collect seeds, you need to choose the strongest fruits. This is necessary in order to get cucumbers with good set genes.

The F1 designation on the seed package indicates that this is a first generation hybrid. Such crops are obtained by crossing two or more varieties.

To collect seeds, choose the most beautiful cucumbers from the strongest bushes. This is necessary in order to get cucumbers with the best set of genes next year. Seeds are collected only in those bushes that give the most delicious fruits.

Cucumbers intended for seed production are left hanging on the bush. They should swell, become yellowish and even a little brown - all this indicates that the seeds in them are ripe.

To collect seeds, an overripe cucumber is plucked and left in the sun for several days, until it becomes completely soft. After that, it is cut lengthwise, the seeds are taken out with a spoon and transferred to some container.

Fermentation will help separate the seeds from the pulp and remove the inhibitors. It will also slow down growth. Spend it in the following way: seeds should be left in a jar of water so that they float freely, and close the jar with gauze so as not to attract small insects. After 2-3 days, fermentation will be completed, sunken seeds will testify to this. It is not worth leaving the seeds in this state for a longer period - they may begin to germinate.

Good cucumber seeds will sink to the bottom, while empty ones will float.

The next step is to remove the formed layer of mold, add water and shake the jar - empty seeds, along with debris (husks), will float up, and good ones will settle at the bottom. Finally, place the seeds in a colander and rinse under running water.

At the last stage of preparation, the seeds are dried and laid out in paper bags or fabric pouches. They should be sown no earlier than in 2-3 years - only then the plants grown from them will give the highest yield.

Follow the rules described above, and then success is guaranteed to you.

Three main stages in the cultivation of cucumbers

I really want to talk about a new way of planting and growing cucumbers, which I experienced last year. I liked it so much that in the new summer season I will definitely use it. So, at the end of March, I took the thinnest substrate under the laminate - it is a very light, thin, soft, water-resistant and warm to the touch material. I cut it into ribbons 45 cm long and 20 cm wide (photo 1).

Then I connected the ends of each of them, securing them with adhesive tape, and I got pots for planting without a bottom. I put them on disposable plastic plates, covered the ground inside, poured well with warm water and sowed two cucumber seeds in each (photo 2). Covered from above plastic bags and put it in the kitchen near the radiator. As soon as the seedling loops appeared, I immediately carefully rearranged the pots on the window, after spreading foam rubber and the remnants of the same substrate there, so that the seedlings were warm (after all, the window sill is very cold to the touch).

With such a volume of land in a container, seedlings are very comfortable, cozy, they have enough food, so they grow strong, with large leaves.

Of the two seedlings, I chose the strongest, and cut the second with scissors (photo 3). I planted them in the greenhouse in the spring. I must say that I always prepare a bed for cucumbers in advance. This work is divided into three stages.

The first one starts in October. Right in the center of the garden along the entire length, I dig a trench deep on the bayonet of a shovel (this is not deep, even pensioners can do such work), I fill plant remains and organic garbage collected in the garden, I cover it with earth and sow oats. Everything - until the end of winter, you can safely do other things.

And at the beginning of February I start the second stage; I cover the bed in the greenhouse with black polyethylene so that it warms up well and thanks to this it retains moisture to the maximum. I check regularly to see what condition it is in. If the soil is dry, I throw up snow and cover again with a film. As a rule, by about mid-April, the garden bed is already completely ready and warmed up (last year I started planting on the 24th).

Now about the third stage - the preparation of the landing holes, which I do with an interval of 40 cm. I think this: to make it easier for myself in further care for cucumbers, it is necessary to put the necessary nutrients into the holes as much as possible. I bring in six components.

• A handful of compost or rotted manure (at worst, the usual purchased fertile land for seedlings).
• A handful of bird or horse droppings (if this good is not available, then I put a large handful of chopped fresh nettles).
• 1 st. l. ash.
• 1 tsp superphosphate.
• A handful of urgasa.

Do not be alarmed - these are recycled (in the absence of access fresh air) kitchen waste that I collect and bring to the site during the winter. 06 I will write a separate letter to this, since I consider this moment very important for summer residents living in the city.

A small pinch of humate with trace elements.

And I mix all this in the most thorough way in the wells. Only after that I start planting cucumbers.

Plates are redundant

However, last year, due to the fact that I grew seedlings in a new container, I had to make a very important innovation in the planting process: I placed the plants in the holes directly in the soft pots in which they grew, removing only disposable plates (photo 4). Moreover, when she sprinkled all this with earth, she made it so that the edges of the sides looked out 3-4 cm.

What it does: Grass flows from below, giving the plants warmth, which the pots from the substrate perfectly retain. And for each plant, almost individual greenhouses are obtained inside the garden. In addition, during irrigation, water does not spread to the sides, but falls strictly to the roots of cucumbers. They are inaccessible to either the bear or the ants. And most importantly, when transplanted, the plants do not even notice that they have changed their place of residence, since they root systems while being completely at rest.

After landing, I immediately put arcs on the bed and fixed them on them. nonwoven fabric. They may notice to me that this is already too much, because cucumbers are already under the protection of pots and the greenhouse itself, but I believe that

an extra precaution never hurts, because the weather is so strange today that even meteorologists are in a quandary.

And now about the harvest. It was something! All the time I just said: “Cucumbers have gone crazy!” Summer and autumn they fruited without interruption, and there was no end to this. Their whips climbed along the left side of the greenhouse to the roof and smoothly reached the top right side. Here I unfolded one of them in reverse side and cut off the other. In October, reluctantly, I had to forcibly remove still quite vigorous plants, since it was necessary to prepare the garden for the new season (and it was necessary to have time to do this before frost).

That's what an amazing result brought the use of such a simple material as the substrate. This is how I finally achieved a super-harvest of cucumbers, which is what I wish you, dear summer residents.

Amazing effect

And now I would like to touch on another important topic. I often hear that cucumbers should be sown in several stages, since the first early batch quickly departs, there must be some kind of continuation, otherwise you can be left without a harvest in the summer. On the basis of my experience, I believe that you can sow once and still get an amazing harvest. But only under certain conditions.

1. If they appear yellow leaves, they need to be trimmed in a timely manner.
2. Carry out once a week alternating spraying: with a solution ammonia(1 tsp per 1 liter of water)) - as a prophylaxis against spider mite and aphids, as well foliar top dressing hydrogen peroxide solution (2 tablespoons per 1 liter of water), which is a very good biostimulant. The main thing is that these environmentally safe means you can buy at any pharmacy, they are inexpensive, and the effect of their use is simply amazing!
3. Timely watering, and daily. I personally use drip. He helps me a lot - saves me a lot of time, since I'm still working.

After following all these rules, I only have to feed the cucumbers with herbal infusion once every two weeks.

To prepare it, I use a tank for two buckets of water, which is in the greenhouse (it is more convenient for me to cook a small amount). I fill the tank 2/3 with any grass, fill it with water and close the lid. After a week, I drain the liquid, and the top dressing is ready (by the way, I use it not only for cucumbers, but also for all crops growing in the greenhouse).

Be sure to leave 1 liter of infusion for the starter of the next batch, so that fermentation goes very quickly and without interruption. And I immediately spread the used grass on the garden bed as mulch. In June, I also mulch the cucumber bed with mowed grass, weeds, which I sprinkle with sawdust on top. I will leave the doors of the greenhouse open all summer in any weather.

I never sow one variety or any hybrid, usually I have six or seven items in my collection. I choose only parthenocarpic cucumbers, because they are the most productive, ideal for growing in a greenhouse. I am especially attracted to those who have super-beam types of ovaries: you pick cucumbers, and bunches of new greens already appear in the same place.

These are such hybrids as the envy of Everyone, Siberian garland, Beam splendor, Perfection itself, Courage, Herman. I also definitely plant one bush with white-fruited cucumbers. I used to order seeds of this species from China, and now I sow my own. These cucumbers are purely for the soul. This bush is quite enough for me, because it is very powerful, strong, fruitful.

The leaves are large, dark green, and snow-white fruits are visible from afar against their background. They are dense, elongated, even. I tear them off when they grow 20 cm long (if you do not touch them, they will stretch up to 50-60 cm, and in thickness - up to 10-15 cm). Very heavy. On the cut, they are also white, their taste is delicate, slightly sweetish. And the best part is that these cucumbers are universal: they are irreplaceable in salads, marinades and pickles.

100pcsseeds/pack cucumber plants bonsai finger vegetables bonsai from Ukraine...

32.9 rub.

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