Strawberries (garden strawberries) are the most popular berry crop. It is a perennial plant in the form of a compact herbaceous bush. The rhizome is fibrous, the height of the stems is 5-40 cm. The leaf blades are large, divided into 3 lobes, the edges are serrated.
Strawberries have three types of shoots: mustaches, rosettes (horns), flower stalks. Mustaches are long lashes, on which sprouts with roots appear. Mustaches of the 1st and 2nd orders are most suitable for breeding. Horns are formed in the lateral part of the shoot from vegetative buds. They have an apical bud of a reddish hue (heart) and the larger it is, the greater the yield of the bush in the first year.
Strawberries are quite cold hardy. It withstands temperatures down to -8-12 °C on bare ground, and under snow cover it can tolerate frost of -35 °C. The buds will successfully survive spring frosts down to -4-5 ° C, the resistance to cold of opened corollas is lower: up to -2 ° C. Flowering occurs unevenly, so there is no danger of completely losing the crop.
The plant is photophilous, but is able to tolerate slight shading. You can grow under the canopy of young trees when the lighting is slightly diffused. In dense shade, the berries are small, ripen poorly or are completely absent.
Strawberries are hygrophilous. It will normally tolerate temporary flooding, but do not overmoisten the soil with watering, especially during the fruiting period: otherwise it will begin to develop rapidly. gray rot capable of destroying the entire crop. Maintain optimal level humidity when the soil is always only slightly moist. From the drying of the soil, the fruiting and quality of the berries decrease, the growth rate slows down.
For strawberries, a flat, well-lit area out of strong winds is best suited. Groundwater occurrence of at least 70 cm is permissible. Lowlands are not suitable for planting - cold air accumulates there, fruits lag behind in ripening by 8-12 days. When planting on steep slopes, melt waters wash out the soil, the strawberry roots are exposed.
The soil is required loose. Be sure to rid her of weeds, especially malicious ones (thistle, gout, bindweed, wheatgrass, sow thistle). Grows best in loamy soils. In sandy soil will suffer from lack of moisture and nutrients.
Every 4 years it is recommended to change the landing site. Strawberries will grow well in the area where they were previously cultivated: legumes, garlic, greens (dill, parsley, cilantro, lettuce, basil), root crops (beets, carrots), any kind of cabbage, radish, radish, turnip, as well as bulbous flowers and marigold.
Bad predecessors are tomatoes, potatoes, pumpkin plants (zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers, watermelon, melon).
The quality and quantity of the first harvest depends on it. Main terms: spring, summer (its second half), autumn.
No less popular with gardeners is the summer planting of strawberries. Proceed to it when mustaches of the 1st and 2nd orders appear on the bushes. Before the onset of winter, the seedlings will have time to form a powerful root system, and they will successfully overwinter.
Keep in mind that even with optimal planting times, medium and late varieties will yield twice as much as early ones.
To establish a new plantation, it is advisable to choose 3-4 varieties, sample 3-5 seedlings of each of them and check in the conditions of your site.
When choosing seedlings with an open root system, it is necessary to inspect the roots: their length should be at least 5 cm, they should be light. Dark roots indicate a diseased state of the plant. The place of the heart should be thin - the larger its diameter, the older the bush from which the process is separated. Berries in this case will be small.
Seedlings brought from the nursery must be disinfected. Warm up the water to 50°C, immerse the plant completely under water for 15-20 minutes, repeat the procedure after 30-40 minutes. Most pests will die in hot water. For the prevention of diseases, dip in a solution of the following composition for 5-7 minutes: for 10 liters of water, 1 tsp. copper sulfate and 3 tbsp. table salt.
How is the preparation of the beds for planting strawberries? Form a plantation gradually. It is best to place several rows of different ages on one site. Plant a new bed every year. Dig up old strawberries to make room for young bushes.
In order for the earth to settle and settle, start preparing the beds 1-2 months before planting. If the soil is poorly fertile, dig, deepening 18-20 cm, dig chernozems to a depth of 25-30 cm.
Strawberries do not tolerate a high concentration of salts in the soil - it should be applied immediately when preparing the beds, and not when planting. Lay them shallow so that they can have an effect.
Apply fertilizers depending on the composition of the soil:
Soil with a high acid reaction should be limed. Lime or dolomite flour is applied 2-3 years before the laying of the future plantation, 3-4 kg per m². Instead, wood ash can be added immediately before digging (2-3 cups per 1 m²).
Soils with an alkaline reaction, on the contrary, need to be acidified. For each m², add 10 kg of peat, rotted needles or sawdust. To slightly acidify the soil, apply ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate.
There are many strawberry patterns. The most cost-effective planting schemes proved to be double rows with a small distance between the bushes in double rows and wide row spacing.
The denser the planting, the higher the yield. This method of planting involves placing bushes in double rows according to the 20x20x60 scheme - between two rows and in a row between bushes, the distance is 20 cm, the row spacing between double rows is 60 cm. Do not compact the row spacing. Thin out the strawberries after harvesting: dig out every second bush and plant in a separate bed, placing according to the 40x40x60 pattern. For fruit-bearing bushes, high compaction is not advisable.
The compacted planting pattern is only suitable for seedlings. Varieties early strawberry seat at a distance of 15 cm between individual specimens, keep a distance between double rows of 60 cm. After harvesting, also thin out, leaving a distance of 30 cm between the bushes.
Suitable for early strawberry varieties. With a free arrangement in the garden (the first year is an exception), strawberries will give a higher yield. When planting different varieties, it is advisable to leave a distance of about 80 cm between double rows so that the antennae do not tangle.
Suitable for mid-season and late varieties that form large, powerful rosettes.
Planting strawberries on black covering material photo
Covering material (mulching black agrofibre, lutarsil, dark spunbond) is spread on the beds in a continuous layer 1-1.2 m wide. It must be fixed along the edges, pressed with boards, bricks or sprinkled with earth.
Make round cuts on the surface to fit the size of the seedling root system - there will be holes. If you make cross-shaped slots, make them larger so that they can be bent inward and the edges of the spunbond do not bulge outward.
Growing strawberries on white agrofibre photo
Make the beds high and slightly sloping: the water should drain and fall into the ground along the edges. In this way, grow plantings in double rows with a wide row spacing.
However, with this method of growing strawberries, it is necessary to lay special system glaze. The method is economically justified for large farms. Renew plantings every 4 years: over time, the berries become smaller, become sour.
Strawberries are one of the most popular berry crops. It can be propagated using mustaches and seedlings grown from seeds. The plant grows on any soil, but the taste and size of the berries depend on its composition, nutritional value, structure. Strawberries are planted in open ground spring, late summer and early autumn. In order for it to quickly take root, please with abundant flowering and a good harvest, you should know simple planting techniques and adhere to simple rules care.
For strawberries, sunny, flat areas are selected, protected from strong drafts. Strawberries love plenty of light fertile soil, cleared of malicious weeds (thistle, wheatgrass, gout and others). Groundwater should lie no closer than 1 m to the surface. Strawberries should not be planted in the lowlands, where cold accumulates in the morning. Steep slopes are not suitable for planting, as in winter snow blows off them and plants can freeze, and in spring the soil is washed off by melt water, and the roots of the berry tree are exposed. Strawberries feel comfortable and give good yields on slightly acidic soils (pH 5.8–6.2). Preference is given to light loams and soils with a high content of sand.
The best places for planting strawberries are well-lit areas with flat surface protected from strong winds
First, the selected area is cleared of debris: branches, leaves, stones. Then all weeds are removed. This can be done in different ways:
Be sure to destroy pests: insect larvae, spores of various fungi. To do this, the ground is sprayed with ammonia water or the Roundup preparation, which is a universal means of controlling weeds and pests. Preparing a working solution in the following way: 100 g of a high concentration of the drug is stirred in 10 liters of water. This amount of solution can process up to 2 acres of land.
The cleaned soil must be fertilized before loosening. You can use various organic and mineral fertilizers:
A plantation for planting strawberries is dug up in advance. In summer and autumn, bushes are planted in the prepared soil in a month. Before this, green manure is sown, which will have time to grow by 10–15 cm. The mass is mowed, and then plowed or closed up when digging into the ground. If planting is planned in the spring, then the soil should be prepared in early September.
If planting strawberries is planned in the spring, then preparatory work should start in autumn
The right choice of strawberry variety is one of the main factors bountiful harvest. Today there is a great demand for remontant varieties that bloom throughout the growing season: from early spring until late autumn. 2-3 crops per year are harvested from one bush. In the market, eyes run wide from the abundance of strawberry seedlings, but you need to pay attention to the following nuances:
If the bush has bloomed, then you need to look at the size of the flower. Big size inflorescence speaks of a large berry. Seedlings with small flowers or no buds should not be planted, as they will not produce a crop.
On a new site experienced gardeners It is advised to plant 3 to 5 different varieties of strawberries. They will give cross-pollination, which helps to increase yields.
From my own practice, I recommend purchasing seedlings of elite varieties of the first reproduction. Before planting, I soak the roots of the bushes in clean water with the addition of a growth stimulant and a few crystals of copper sulfate for half an hour. This technique contributes to the rapid rooting of seedlings, which has a beneficial effect on the growth of the ground part of the strawberry.
The optimal dates for planting berries are the last ten days of July and the first days of August. By this time, the seedlings will develop a good root system, which will affect the next year's harvest. Bushes need to be transplanted with a large clod of nutrient soil. Most often, they try to plant 1-3 remontant varieties and the same number of ordinary ones. This combination allows you to harvest from late June to late autumn.
Plant strawberries on a warm cloudy day in the evening so that the plants take root better.
Instruction summer planting strawberry bushes in open ground:
Mustaches begin to grow after the ripening of the berries. After harvesting, they are thinned out, leaving the highest quality ones for reproduction, on which a strong rosette has formed. It is cut off and transplanted to a new place.
For strawberries to develop quickly and give good harvest, it needs to be fed regularly:
Spring top dressing is combined with leaf trimming. To stimulate a better ovary, a solution of nitroammophoska is used (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). From organic matter, mullein and chicken manure are most often consumed. 0.5 liters of nutrient solution is poured under each bush. In the second top dressing before harvesting, fertilizers containing potassium (wood ash, potassium nitrate) are used.
As soon as the first berries begin to appear, 0.5 liters of liquid solution are added under the bush - 2 tbsp. Pour boiling water over the ashes, leave for 2-3 hours and dilute with 10 liters of warm water
The addition is spraying the bushes with a solution with a high content of trace elements. For these purposes, use 2 g boric acid diluted in 10 liters of water. The third top dressing is needed for strawberries because during the growing season it was depleted. The situation will be corrected by a solution of 2 tbsp. l. nitroammophoski or 1 tbsp. ash per 10 liters of water.
Spring planting in late April - early May, according to many experienced summer residents, is not the best time for growing strawberries. Bushes take root worse, often get sick, because they react poorly to sunny weather. Before planting, the soil is moistened, but it should not be wet. The soil must be fertilized with organic and mineral fertilizers. The rest of the landing technology is similar to the summer one.
Benefits of planting strawberries in the fall:
In autumn, strawberry planting can be carried out until the end of Indian summer. Renew strawberry plantings should be every 3-4 years and this is best done in September.
The most experienced gardeners grow strawberry seedlings from seeds. This requires patience and knowledge, as well as creating the necessary conditions.
Many seeds are sold on the market and in specialized stores. different varieties and strawberry hybrids.
Huge tasty berries are drawn on colorful packages, promises of precocity and resistance to any diseases are given. It is difficult for an inexperienced gardener to make right choice. It is better to study strawberry varieties and look for the name you like.
In specialized stores, a huge number of seeds of varieties and hybrids of garden strawberries are put up for sale.
In Russia, remontant varieties are popular, giving 2-3 crops per season:
To obtain early (ripen in mid - late June) large-fruited dessert berries, varieties are recommended:
Mid-early strawberry varieties (harvest in the second half of June):
If you want strawberries to retain their maternal traits, new variety should be cultivated at some distance from other plantings. Then she pollinates only with herself.
Strawberry seeds are easy to prepare if you follow simple rules:
Before planting, the seed material is subjected to soaking and stratification. Seeds are soaked on cotton pads, which are placed in a saucer and moistened with warm water. Any growth stimulator is added to it:
For simplified stratification, the seeds are laid out on moistened cotton swabs, covered with similarly prepared other swabs, and placed in the refrigerator in the lower compartment for three days. The temperature is set at 4–6 ° C. Tampons can be replaced with paper napkins.
When stratified, the seeds are kept in the refrigerator for 3 days.
The manufacturer on the bag of seeds indicates the date of planting
Seedlings from strawberry seeds can be grown in transparent containers or plastic cups. Through their walls, the degree of moisture content of the substrate is visible.
Many gardeners use containers from sour cream, yogurt, milk. Recently, peat cups have been popular.
It is convenient to grow strawberry seedlings in peat cups
As a substrate, a special soil for strawberry seeds or flower seedlings, bought in a store, is suitable. But you can cook it yourself: equal shares of river sand and lowland peat are mixed with two shares of soddy land.
In open areas, the most common classic landing:
Free space is needed for strawberry care and weed and pest control.
There are also many non-standard landing methods for which bags, shelters, and landscape drops are used. Among them, the most common:
To save space, strawberries can be planted outside the beds using various devices.
This berry is not considered a capricious plant and perfectly coexists with many flowers and vegetables:
Strawberries normally tolerate the presence of sage, parsley, borage. But the neighborhood with potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes and cucumbers is undesirable, since they have a common pest - a nematode. From raspberries growing nearby, weevil can go to strawberries.
Garlic - good neighbor for strawberries
Proper planting of strawberries is the first step to breeding rich in vitamins and trace elements of the berry. You can read a lot, study, watch videos about the cultivation of strawberries, but if you do not pick up garden tools and do not start preparing the land for planting bushes - the theory will never be translated into practice. Start with simple actions: buy seedlings, plant in pre-prepared soil, water, loosen the ground, mulch. The result is sure to come!
Planting for a plant is the most important and crucial moment. Strawberries and wild strawberries differ in that, with all the huge abundance of species and planting methods, they have certain requirements for conditions that are important to comply with.
When growing strawberries (wild strawberries), it is extremely important to choose right place, because the size of the crop directly depends on how suitable the selected area is for the plant.
Place Selection Criteria | Indicator |
Attitude towards light | Light culture. |
Required amount of direct sunlight | about 8 hours a day. |
Groundwater depth | Not higher than 80 cm and not deeper than 150 cm. |
Orientation beds | Strictly from north to south. |
Permissible slope steepness | 1.5º-5º. |
relation to the wind | Sharply negative, does not like the flow of cold air and its stagnation. |
Crops after which you can not plant strawberries | Nightshade and Compositae crops, as well as cabbage and zucchini. |
Crops after which it is recommended to plant strawberries | Carrots, turnips, radishes and green manure plants such as alkaloid lupine and white buckwheat. |
Best Strawberry Neighbors | Garlic, parsley and all members of the legume family. |
Preferred soil | Medium or light loamy, as well as sandy loam. |
Soil acidity | 5,5–8 |
soil moisture | 70–80% |
The basic rules for choosing a place for planting must be observed regardless of the method and method of planting strawberries (strawberries)
There are three time periods when you can plant strawberries in the garden.
It should be noted that the soil for spring planting is almost always prepared in the fall.
Before planting strawberries, the gardener needs to take care of proper soil preparation. Many use ready-made soil mixtures especially for strawberries, but if desired, the soil substrate can be made by yourself.
The soil for strawberries should be rich in organic compounds, therefore, one week before planting (or in general, in autumn), either manure, or neutral high-moor peat, or rotted compost in the amount of 8–10 kg per m2 are added to the soil used. And also be sure to put from 15 to 30% (the proportions depend on the amount of clay in the soil) sand or perlite, in rare cases you can use vermiculite - this will reduce the likelihood of plant rotting.
Even when planting, a certain set of mineral fertilizers must be added.
But do not forget that when carrying out various works to improve soil properties such as soil deoxidation with lime, the proportions of fertilizers can be changed in accordance with the changes made.
Almost all varieties of strawberries are planted according to this method, only for some small-fruited varieties they use a different scheme (20 * 30)
The landing itself is subject to a simple order:
Note that the root neck of the plant sinks exactly half into the ground and this is extremely important, because if it is not positioned correctly, the plant can either dry out the roots or rot
A person planting plants in the ground for the first time will most likely not notice the difference. Indeed, planting strawberries in the ground is similar in appearance to planting other crops, but has its own key properties. So, the depth of the hole is determined by the long roots of the plant, which should hang freely, without kinks. The place where the root is bent will be prone to disease, and you can significantly lose not only the crop of this season, but also the plant itself. The roots of an adult strawberry bush are 20–45 cm long. Many gardeners recommend shortening the length of the roots, especially if it exceeds 35 cm.
After planting, the plants are not disturbed by watering for several days, because strawberries treat both the excess moisture content in the soil and its lack very badly. After planting seedlings in the ground next month watering is carried out on average once a week. Then you can reduce the number of waterings to two to three per month. Strawberry roots are especially sensitive in the first month after planting, both to the amount of moisture and to its temperature. In any case, watering is carried out either early in the morning or in the evening, at a time when the sun's rays, passing through drops of water, cannot burn the leaves. Currently, three types of irrigation are used: manual (from a watering can), drip and sprinkler. The most popular is drip irrigation. With this type of irrigation, moisture is supplied to the roots of each plant from a reservoir that is filled in advance. This allows not only to save water and regulate the time and frequency of watering, but also to monitor the water temperature. Strawberries should not be watered with cold or strongly superheated water - this can lead to the development of diseases, burns and death of the plant. In addition, during flowering, the plant needs additional irrigation.
Factors affecting the successful planting of strawberries:
There are several technologies for storing seedlings, but the most common is to store planting material in boxes, the bottom of which is lined with slightly damp moss. From above, the seedlings are covered with lids with small ventilation holes. The room where the seedlings are stored should not only be ventilated, but also keep the temperature around 2-6ºC.
Air requirements in the place of storage of seedlings.
There are other technologies for storing seedlings, but they are not very common among experienced gardeners. Long-term storage technology is also useful if the weather or lack of prepared soil does not allow planting strawberries at the end of summer. Then the grown mustache or seedlings must be stored until spring.
Some gardeners prefer to treat plants with anti-fungal agents immediately before placing them in the chamber.
When preparing plants for storage long term carefully remove the earth, straighten the roots and collect the plants in bunches
Any cooling method is able to preserve the vital signs of strawberry seedlings for up to one year.
If the planting material was purchased, but it is not possible to plant it right away, then you need to sprinkle the roots of the seedlings with earth and regularly water or spray them. The main thing is not to let the root system of plants dry out. With this care, seedlings can last 2-3 days.
Preparation of seedlings for planting consists of three steps.
Even large varieties strawberry (strawberry) seeds are extremely small, so most often a toothpick is used to plant them
Lowering into a solution of potassium permanganate not only makes it possible to neutralize pathogens, but also to stimulate growth. After potassium permanganate, slightly dried seeds are soaked in water or in a solution of Kornevin or Humate, or another biological stimulant. The soaking time in the solution depends on the instructions on the packaging of the biostimulant. If water is used, then for 3-4 hours. Treated seeds are immediately planted for germination.
Sowing seeds for seedlings (as indicated on the seed package) is recommended to start in February. But if it is possible to provide illumination for 12–14 hours a day and a stable temperature in the region of 16–22ºС, then seedlings can be sown in January. If the seedlings are placed on the windowsill, then it is preferable to choose the south, or southeast side. Prepared seeds are sown in specially prepared places. It can be:
In the first three cases, a specially prepared soil substrate must be sterilized. For planting in peat tablets, you need to prepare sand, which is also desirable to sterilize. Sand is sterilized in order to remove the seeds of other plants and possible pathogens. To do this, it is calcined on a baking sheet in the oven in one of two ways. Either 1 hour at a temperature of 120 0 С with periodic stirring every 10–15 minutes, or half an hour at a temperature of 150 0 С with the same stirring interval.
The most traditional way of sowing is sowing in boxes or containers. Previously used packaging for milk, kefir, sour cream and fermented baked milk. They were thoroughly washed, removing fats, and, if necessary, cut to the right sizes. Now this need has disappeared since you can buy many different containers for specialized purposes. It is important to understand that the seeds of strawberries or strawberries are very small, seedlings until the first pick in thickness will be comparable to a hair. There will be difficulties with transplanting into separate pots. Therefore, they began to use less and less germination in a common container.
When planting seeds in a common container, pay attention to the height of the sides, they should not be high
Sowing seeds in separate cassettes or pots is different in that each seed is sown in a separate container.
Seedling cassettes come in different sizes, it depends on the number and size of cells
For growing seeds of strawberries or strawberries, it is better to take small cells - 3 * 3 cm at a depth of 4-6 cm. Cassettes and cups can also be used for planting seedlings grown in tablets. This is done in cases where the sprouts have already begun to germinate the shell of the tablet, and it is too early to plant them in open ground.
Snail landing is a very new effective method growing seedlings. It is based on the folding of a soft backing material, which is 10 cm wide, together with thin layer soil substrate, 1 cm thick.
The seeds themselves are added with a brush or toothpick to the surface of the substrate after the snail has been rolled up.
Today, two types of tablets can be purchased on sale: peat and coconut. Before buying, you need to make sure that all the tablets are packed in a mesh, then when used they will not fall apart. Before use, they are soaked as indicated on the package. Then you can plant seeds.
Planting seeds in tablets by experienced gardeners is carried out using a toothpick in the holes prepared by the manufacturer
Tablets have their advantages:
According to most experienced gardeners, for planting capricious and expensive plants, it is worth in coconut tablets, and the rest in peat. For strawberry seeds, coconut seeds are preferable, since they pass oxygen a little better than peat seeds and are less likely to rot due to excess water. To reduce the risk of mold and crusting when the cassette dries into a swollen peat tablet add half a coffee spoon of sterile sand and stir it with a toothpick. The addition of sand also makes it easier for the strawberry seeds to deepen, because they are placed in a deepening and not sprinkled. Under the action of moisture, the seeds themselves gradually descend into the substrate. Sand is not needed for coconut tablets.
In practice, the development of mold is largely due to low-quality substrate, so when buying, you should carefully consider the manufacturer
Which pills to choose to a greater extent depends on the preferences of the gardener. In both cases, seedlings of strawberries or strawberries grow successfully and develop without picking before planting in the ground.
Regardless of the method of sowing seeds, they must be sprayed. Seedlings of strawberries (strawberries) are very tender, so they are carefully sprayed, and not watered. Beginning gardeners are advised to pour water into the pan where the tablets are placed. In general, the next watering usually occurs about a week after planting, or even later (depending on soil moisture). Prior to this, future seedlings are loosely closed transparent material. In everyday life, a loosely closed bag or a transparent lid from a container is used. Recently, the use of micro-greenhouses has become actively used. This makes it easier to remove the accumulated excess condensate and ventilate the seedlings.
Micro-greenhouses or as they are also called mini-greenhouses come in different sizes for different cassettes, which allows you to optimally choose the right one in each case.
Under a film, covering material or in a micro-greenhouse, seedlings will spend many days with periodic airing and spraying until two true leaves appear. Then the seedlings begin to harden. To do this, remove the cover not only to remove condensate and air (3-5 minutes daily), but leave it even longer open plants gradually increasing the time.
Landing in a hydrogel. Some gardeners mistakenly believe that the hydrogel can be used at the seed planting stage. They do not take into account the properties of this material. Hydrogel is a special polymer that is able to absorb and retain a large amount of moisture for a long time. Strawberries are very capricious in terms of the amount of water and quickly rot when it is in excess, so seeds cannot be planted in a hydrogel. They just rot. Strawberry whiskers are another matter. For the development and formation of the root system, with the already existing upper part and root collar, hydrogel can be useful. In such an environment, the mustache actively grows, but there is a danger of infection. If the roots of the seedlings were not washed and kept in potassium permanganate, then the hydrogel aqueous medium becomes a fertile medium for bacteria. Which will lead to the loss of both expensive material and the plant itself.
Remember that the hydrogel already contains a lot useful substances, so do not pour hydrogen peroxide into it
People have come up with many ways to plant strawberries in open ground, most of them are also decorative. And some are used for commercial purposes.
by the most traditional way landing is considered to be ribbons, which can be either double-leaf or single-line.
For this planting method, it is necessary to dig up the selected area so that clear rows are formed, in which holes for strawberries are then formed.
The disadvantage of planting with ribbons was that, as a rule, the rows occupy a vast territory, where half the space is voids between plants. Because of this, such a landing is unprofitable in small areas.
The advantages of this planting method are the convenience of processing bushes and facilitating the collection of berries. Therefore, this method is often used to grow strawberries for commercial purposes.
Planting strawberries with a carpet is one of the most common planting methods in the southern regions of Russia.
The chess order and the distance to neighboring bushes of 25 cm are the basic principles of planting with a carpet
The disadvantages of this method of planting are that, firstly, the collection of berries is greatly complicated by the planting density, and, secondly, such strawberry berries are characterized by degeneration. That is, the first 2 years the berry bears fruit well, and then it needs to be transplanted to another place. And also, such a planting cannot be used when growing early-ripening varieties, because you will have to spend a lot of effort on constantly trimming your mustache.
The advantages of planting with a carpet are the uselessness of care and the compactness of plantings. This method is also used in the cultivation of strawberries for commercial purposes, but is extremely rare, because when harvested, the berries can lose commercial quality.
Planting on high beds is used mainly when groundwater is close to the surface or if the soil does not have the level of fertility that strawberries need.
It is absolutely not necessary to make the frame of the beds from wood; slate, stone, and metal will do.
The disadvantages of such beds are additional waste on materials for the frame and exactingness to frequent watering. Indeed, strawberries planted in this way will require more water because the earth will dry out faster.
Such beds are increasingly popular with modern summer residents, because they have many advantages. The main advantages of this method are in the extremely convenient processing of the beds, in the ability to use the soil substrate prepared independently, in the mobility of such beds (they can be easily disassembled and moved) and in their neat, nice view. Such beds are often used for decorative plantings.
High beds do not have a strictly defined height, so the gardener can decide for himself how much to raise the bed, but you must always remember that the higher the bed, the more the earth dries in it.
High beds have several non-standard varieties.
A strawberry flower bed is the same high garden bed, only decoratively designed, small in size and unusual in shape.
When it comes to flower beds, do not limit your imagination, the main thing is to comply with the conditions for selecting a place and soil substrate for strawberries
Strawberries, especially ampelous ones, are often planted in such a variety of high beds as a pyramid.
Each gardener determines the number of tiers of the pyramid for himself, but the principle of filling with earth is the same as for all standard high beds
non-standard high beds there are also ridges, because they follow the principle of adding a new soil substrate and forming a kind of bed from it. This method planting is suitable for those summer residents whose soil substrate is not entirely suitable for strawberries. For example, the soil for some reason does not have a top layer filled with humus and other organic compounds, then it is easier to create this layer artificially using ridges. This method of planting is suitable for all varieties of strawberries and strawberries.
Such a ridge does not have additional materials that limit the scattering of the earth
In order to increase the yield of strawberries and increase the overall fertility of the soil, there are two proven ways:
Black spunbond or agrofibre - nonwoven fabric due to its porous structure, it is more breathable than film, so it is rapidly gaining popularity. Under it, just like under the film, weeds do not grow, but it, like straw, does not need to be removed for the winter. Due to the color, it contributes to a better heating of the beds in the spring and reduces the risk of damage to plants from return frosts. When using straw, you can plant in any way (line, field or high beds), when using a film or spunbond, the width of the beds will be limited by the width of the material minus 20 - 30 cm (the material must fit the sides and be attached) and the bed must be raised.
Before growing strawberries, it is important to decide in which greenhouse it will grow. There are three types of greenhouses: frame, glass and polycarbonate.
Frame greenhouses are cheap and easily erected, but provide them with additional heating and lighting in winter time, especially in the middle lane, is difficult. Therefore, frame greenhouses can be used to start harvesting as early as May, but they are not suitable for year-round strawberry cultivation.
Although glass and polycarbonate greenhouses are more expensive, it is much easier to create conditions for year-round cultivation of delicious berries in them.
For planting strawberries for year-round cultivation, you need to take self-pollinating remontant varieties. In greenhouses, beds can be placed both horizontally and vertically. Vertical arrangement will not only better illuminate the plants, but also increase the number of plantings. How to arrange and what to grow in (in bags, containers or just beds), each gardener decides for himself, but it is impossible to violate the rules for selecting a soil substrate and the planting technique itself. It is important to remember that strawberries do not like drafts and strong stagnation, therefore, they need proper ventilation while maintaining the microclimate. Maintaining a humidity level of 70-80% allows you to improve the quality of the berries, but contains the risk of diseases. In greenhouses, the use of poor-quality or contaminated soil will not allow you to get a good harvest.
The best way to irrigate greenhouses is drip irrigation.
To get a good harvest, you need to maintain a light regime in the region of 12-14 hours. Year-round cultivation strawberries are most often used for commercial purposes, but gardeners often use early planting in a greenhouse to get a crop in May. In these cases, row horizontal beds (Russian technology) or vertical ( dutch technology) are filled with seedlings of adult plants in February-March. The planting time determines the ability to maintain a temperature in the greenhouse in the region of + 20º-22ºС. In unheated greenhouses, it is better to do this at the end of March or even April, because strawberry bushes may not survive the temperature drop below -5ºС. Buy seedlings for such early landing at this time it is difficult, but it is not difficult to get boxes with adult plants prepared in advance from the cellar.
For growing efficiency, you can install racks in the greenhouse, on which all plants will get the same amount of sunlight.
There is one more feature of growing strawberries in a greenhouse - this is the ability to plant plants in containers of any configuration.
Strawberries can be grown both in an apartment and in small areas by planting in different containers.
For example, you can plant strawberries in pots, flowerpots or flowerpots and decorate window sills or balconies with them.
When planting in a container of any configuration, you should always add gravel or expanded clay to prevent rotting
When choosing a container for planting strawberries, make sure that it has special holes for draining water.
When planting in bottles, you can storage capacity for water
Strawberries are often planted in tires, when choosing such a container, remember that black rubber tend to overheat and drain the soil. But nevertheless, there are not a few gardeners who plant seedlings of this berry culture tires, because this method has several advantages. Firstly, when planting in tires, you do not need to dig up anything and take into account the initial soil conditions, because you can use a ready-made soil substrate. Secondly, the tire design itself is extremely mobile, that is, if desired, it can be easily disassembled and moved to another place. And finally, the tires themselves can be painted or decorated, which will give them the look of a decorated flower bed.
Recently, many shops and nurseries have begun to sell nylon bags in which strawberries can be planted.
Landing in such a bag requires the mandatory addition of expanded clay or gravel
But the most unusual landing method is landing in vertical pvc pipes. To implement this method, you should take PVC pipes and at the same distance (about 20 cm) drill holes in them with a diameter of not more than 15 cm, and close the bottom of the pipe with a plug. Next, we prepare a rigid hose, in which we also make holes of only a small size and wrap this structure with burlap, tightly fixing it with twine. We place the wrapped hose in the previously prepared pipe. First, we fill the pipe with coarse gravel or crushed stone, then we load the soil substrate (chernozem - 60%, high-moor peat -25% and perlite, sand can be used - 15%).
It is important to ensure that the hose is in the middle of the pipe when loading the soil.
Unforgettable, place a rigid hose with a small number of holes for irrigation in the middle of a large pipe
For growing strawberries indoors, soil preparation is needed.
The hydroponic method of growing strawberries is a method in which the plant is not placed in the soil, but in a special artificial environment. There are several hydroponic methods for growing strawberries.
At this method plants are placed in cups and gradually lowered into the solution
When using the foam method, it must be understood that the container with the nutrient solution must not only be deep enough for proper root development, but also located on a straight surface without slopes.
Foggy generators often operate on ultrasound, so a separate room isolated from sound is needed for growing plants with this method.
Planting a mother liquor is an extremely painstaking task, because it requires complete isolation of planted plants from other strawberries. Before planting, the soil of the mother liquor must be checked for the stem nematode.
The mother liquor is used only for breeding elite seedlings of unique varieties.
At ampelous strawberries There are several landing features:
cultivation remontant strawberries, in turn, differs from the cultivation of other varieties only in that it is better to plant it in spring and by the method of ribbons or carpet. Otherwise, planting remontant strawberries is the same as regular.
Summarize. Whatever type of planting or its method is used, it is important to remember that strawberries are demanding for the correct orientation to the cardinal points. It is very susceptible to the amount of moisture and top dressing. If you follow all the basic rules when planting, then no matter which method is used, the harvest will be consistently good.
Strawberry - a delicious berry with a rich vitamin and microelement composition. Therefore, she is a frequent resident of vegetable gardens, front gardens in private houses and dachas. Each owner wants the berry to be large, tasty and there were a lot of it. But it so happens that expectations are not justified. Why? Let's find out how to plant the right strawberries, which varieties to give preference to and how to take care of the plantation in order to get stable, rich yields of strawberries.
The main thing in the article
It is not worth choosing strawberry varieties for planting by the name “tastiest” or “largest”. Since strawberries are a perennial early-growing plant, the choice of variety for your site must be approached responsibly.
When choosing a variety, you need to take into account not only the yield and taste, but also frost resistance, pest resistance, disease resistance, etc. We offer a list of strawberry varieties that will feel good in our zone:
1) Early varieties of strawberries:
2) Mid-season strawberry variety:
3) Late-ripening variety strawberries:
4) Varieties with large berries:
5) Strawberries that bear fruit twice a year:
Tip: In one area it is better to plant several varieties of strawberries with different terms maturation (late, early, mid-ripening). Then the fruits can be harvested from the beginning of summer until autumn.
Strawberry bushes can be planted in different ways. Gardeners and experienced summer residents use four basic planting techniques, we will consider them in more detail.
It is impossible to talk about a specific landing method as the best. Since many factors should be taken into account: climatic conditions, site location, soil on which strawberries will be planted, etc. The video shows one of better ways landing.
For autumn planting choose a period from August 15 to September 20-25. If you plant strawberry seedlings later, then it will not have time to take root (take root) before the onset of cold weather.
Having outlined the landing date, we perform the following actions:
Step #1. Seedling preparation. You can buy it or propagate your bushes with a mustache.
Step #2. Soil preparation.
Step #3. Planting bushes. An ordinary planting is excellent for beds.
The petiole (core) of the bush should be on the surface, and the roots should be completely hidden in the ground.
Step number 4. Care of planted bushes. Now the task of the gardener is to help the strawberries take root. To do this, it is watered, mulched, the tendrils that have appeared are removed, and weeds do not appear.
When planting strawberries, maintaining the distance between the bushes is very important. It may depend on the method of seating and the purpose of the strawberries (fruiting, repair material, seedlings). But distance minima must be maintained under all landing conditions. So between:
Below we offer strawberry seating charts in different ways.
To plant bushes under a black film, you need to prepare a piece of black film that can cover the entire area for planting. Today on the market you can find a special delineated black film, which is much easier to work with, since there is no need to measure the distance for each bush.
Initially, drip irrigation is done on the site, then the area for planting is covered with a black film. Scissors cut holes in the black film and plant strawberry bushes in them.
If it is necessary to plant rows under a black film, then it is cut in strips (under a row), watering is carried out and the row is covered with a film. The edges on both sides are sprinkled with earth and strawberries are planted.
Planting strawberries under agrofiber does not differ much from planting under black film. Of course, agrofibre has a better effect on the growth and development of the bush, but the film is much more budgetary. On the video you can see how strawberries are planted under agrofibre.
Strawberry bushes in a box are considered a balcony planting method, although this method is actively used in the industrial cultivation of strawberries. For planting you need a box. Wood is perfect, but in its absence, plastic can also be used. Pour soil into it and plant strawberry bushes.
Strawberries are quite possible to propagate by seeds. You can buy them at a garden store or make your own.
For independent harvesting of seeds, you should choose the most beautiful berry. It must be well ripe. It is kneaded, the gruel is dried and the seeds are extracted from it.
Now, as for the landing.
Planting strawberry bushes in the ground is done in spring or autumn.
Remontant strawberries are those that produce two harvests per season.
The first harvest falls in June-July, and the second is harvested in August-September. It is noted that it is the second harvest that is more abundant. The disadvantages of planting replacement strawberries include the fact that many bushes die after a double load of fruiting.
For planting remontant strawberries, two planting methods are used:
As for the planting time, many gardeners prefer autumn, since replacement strawberries planted in spring usually do not have time to give a normal harvest.
The optimal time for planting bushes is the end of August or the first days of September.
The method of planting bushes through a mustache is very popular, since good varieties strawberries are not cheap today, and purchase seedlings at large area not everyone can afford. Therefore, gardeners acquire a small amount of bushes and plant them separately.
During the spring-summer period, mother bushes give a lot of daughter material, propagating through a mustache. After they are transplanted.
It is very convenient to substitute under the thrown out child stalk a plastic cup with earth. The bush sprouts there, and by cutting off the mustache, you get an excellent planting material that can be stored for a long time.
It should be noted that only the second bush on the mustache released by the mother bush will bear fruit in the year of planting.
Spring planting is done by any of the above methods. The main thing is to withstand the planting time and provide seedlings with stable watering.
It should be noted that after spring planting, it is not worth waiting for large harvests, as the bush will gain strength. But next year you will certainly get a high fruiting result.
Planting strawberries in autumn attracts gardeners more, because after wintering, the bushes actively bear fruit, delighting the owners delicious berries. For planting, choose a cloudy, rainy day. Keep the seedlings in a cool place before planting for about 5 days. After, you can plant it in open ground.
The autumn method of planting under agrofiber has proven itself very well. With this option, in the spring it is not necessary to weed the rows of strawberries from the weed, and the root system of the bush is protected from freezing. Also to positive moments is the fact that an optimal climate and humidity are created under agrofibre, which allow strawberries to develop with maximum efficiency.
Since strawberry seedlings can be called overly sensitive to sudden changes in temperature and the amount of moisture present in the soil, then optimal timing planting is both spring and summer. Of course, each period has its drawbacks and pluses, so each summer resident must make a choice for himself.
Now for landing:
Knowledge of crop rotation helps successful cultivation strawberries. So , planting strawberries after strawberries is not recommended , since the predecessor "pulled out" from the soil all the substances necessary for normal growth. As for garlic and onions, they are the best predecessors for strawberry bushes. Therefore, feel free to occupy last year's onion and garlic plantation for planting strawberries.
Caring for already planted strawberries also has its secrets, and we will share some of them.
Plant strawberries on your plots and delight your family with delicious, juicy, healthy berries.
Many gardeners have had the opportunity to make sure from their own experience that autumn is the best time to plant strawberries. The main arguments in favor of autumn planting can be called:
The first advantage is decisive, because if strawberries are planted in spring, the probability of crop ripening is very small. Fruits can only give special varieties that can be ordered and purchased in garden stores. And after a long winter, when the body lacks vitamins, I want to quickly get a harvest of sweet and useful berry. That is why the planting time is better to focus on the fall.
When determined optimal time planting strawberries in the ground, every gardener should remember a few important rules and features of this process. Although it is not difficult to plant strawberries, their implementation will give best result and a rich harvest in the summer.
The best time to plant sweet berry bushes is the month from the end of August to the end of September. This is the period when the main summer heat is already on the decline, but the weather is still warm. After planting, strawberry seedlings will still have time to take root in the new soil, get stronger and accumulate strength for wintering.
At the beginning of August it is still too hot for planting new tubers, it will be difficult for them to adapt to this temperature, although some varieties are designed specifically for early planting. At the end of September, the weather is still warm, but if you plant strawberries in the late autumn period, the first cold and wind of October can have a bad effect on seedlings, or even kill them. For late boarding only some resistant strawberry varieties that are adapted to low outdoor temperatures are suitable. With ordinary tubers, it is better not to take risks and not experiment.
The most suitable time of day for planting strawberries is evening. The soil must first be moistened and fertilized. The best fertilizer for the soil in which strawberries will grow, is humus. Depending on the condition of the soil and its depletion, you can add up to 5 kg of fertilizer per square meter earth. A larger amount of humus can adversely affect the adaptation of the root system of tubers.
The setting sun in the evening will not burn the leaves of the seedlings until the morning, and the evening humidity in the air will enable the tubers to better get used to the new place. When the bush is planted in wet ground, it should also be watered from above to compact the soil. Next time, young plants can be watered in a day, the next evening, but only if the day is hot and dry. Too much water can cause root rot.
Usually strawberry seedlings are obtained after cleaning the area where the berries grew earlier. Experts recommend changing the place of growing strawberries at least once every four years, and preferably after three. Young bushes that have grown from the processes of an old planting are suitable for planting. Having given them the opportunity to strengthen and strengthen the root system, you can dig them out and prepare them for planting in a new place. It is best if the bushes lie down for several days in a cool and humid place before planting.
An ideal strawberry bed consists of three rows of bushes arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the bushes is approximately 30-40 cm. This will not only enable each root system to grow and develop in its own earthen space, but will also simplify the care of seedlings, as well as harvesting.
Strawberries are planted in the holes at a sufficient depth to the place where a new sprout is formed. This will increase the likelihood that the roots will not freeze when winter comes. Abundant regular watering will ensure the penetration of moisture into the entire root system. To further help the earth retain moisture, the beds should be loosened after each watering.
If strawberries will be planted on a plot of soil for the first time, and there are no young seedlings of their own, they can be purchased at the market or in a specialized garden store. The consultants can advise when it is best to plant strawberries and give their reasons for planting in the fall. Experts will also tell you the features and requirements of each strawberry variety, recommend the rules for caring for strawberries. Choosing a suitable variety of berries, you can immediately find out how large they are, when the first fruits appear, what diseases can most often affect them.
If there is a desire to purchase and plant several varieties of strawberries, you need to understand that they will have to be planted at a distance from each other. Otherwise, pollination of plants will occur in a year, and already next summer the berries will be the same from both sections of the planted bushes.
To confidently leave strawberry bushes in the ground for the whole winter, you need to prepare them for the cold and help them grow strong. To do this, you need to do a few simple steps:
Autumn planting of strawberries allows you to immediately provide bushes optimal conditions for their growth and strengthening. And the right planting dates will make it possible to calmly complete all the preparatory work for the winter and get a good harvest of sweet berries in the summer.
If the gardener still doubts when it is better to plant strawberries, you can consult with experienced gardeners. Usually dacha neighbors like to share not only experience and advice, but also good ones. healthy seedlings. By purchasing bushes for planting in this way, you can immediately see what berries will turn out in the summer harvest. Although own experience and skills in planting strawberries will become the main argument in the further work of the gardener.
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