What to do with Victoria so that there is a harvest. Proper planting of Victoria in the fall, taking care of an early harvest

Planting strawberries in autumn has a number of advantages over spring. Subject to the technology, the plant takes root easily and quickly, winters well and without loss, and the next year pleases with a stable and high yield berries.

Why is it customary to plant strawberries in the fall and not in the spring

The autumn period for gardeners is freer: there are no active planting and maintenance work, so you can plant berry bushes in a measured manner.

Obvious advantages of the autumn landing:

• the soil warmed up during the summer time contributes to the rapid survival of the crop;
• choice planting material richer in autumn;
• berry bushes develop faster and grow more actively;
• modern varieties and hybrids are able to form an early harvest during autumn planting;
• in autumn period Strawberry beds don't need much attention.

Traditionally, strawberries were planted in early spring period when the soil is well warmed to a sufficient depth and young berry seedlings easily take root. As practice has shown, autumn planting is also very promising and gives good results.

Disembarkation dates

You can correctly determine the timing of the landing, given the climatic features. There are only three periods:

• mid-August to mid-September
• from the end of September to the middle of October,
• four weeks before the first noticeable frost.

Planting dates depend on the method and technology of cultivation, variety, climate

Strawberry planting dates depending on location: table

It is autumn planting that guarantees a harvest for the next year. When planting in the spring this year, you will not be able to get a berry.

How to prepare beds for planting

Strawberry ridges should be well lit by sunlight and have sufficient protection from gusty winds. The best place the southwestern side will become with a slope of 2–3 o.

Good predecessors for berry culture are presented:

• green manure;
• mustard;
• beans and peas;
• radish and radish;
• carrots;
• celery or leaf and root parsley;
• turnip and spring garlic.

Unwanted precursors are represented by:

• tomatoes;
• potatoes;
• eggplant;
• cabbage;
• pepper;
• cucumbers;
• Compositae and ranunculus crops.

Preparing beds for planting strawberries

The soil for cultivation must be as fertile as possible and rich in essential nutrients. This requirement is due to the growth of berry bushes, as well as their active fruiting in a dedicated and prepared area for three or four years.

The acidity of the earth should be 5.0–6.5 units, and the depth ground water- within 60 cm. By the time of planting, the soil is checked. You need to make sure that there are no larvae on the site colorado potato beetle and wireworm. If necessary, a month before planting work is paid ammonium nitrate. Watering the soil with a solution based on the preparation "Confidor", "Marshal" or "Bazudin" has a high efficiency.

On the stage pre-training, about a couple of weeks before planting, the area for strawberries must be dug up on one bayonet of a shovel. For digging, for each m², from 10 to 20 kg of well-rotted manure or humus, as well as about 25–30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium chloride, are introduced. Acidic soil needs to be deoxidized, so about a year and a half before planting strawberries, lime is added at the rate of 4–6 kg m². Immediately before planting, the earth is re-loosened to a depth of about 15–20 cm.

How to prepare planting material

Strawberries on a covering material

The presence of dark or white dots on the foliage indicates a fungal infection, and wrinkled young leaves are a common sign of the strawberry mite. Strawberry leaves must be juicy green color, leathery and shiny, with characteristic and very visible pubescence. The minimum number of leaves is 3-4 pieces.

In preparation for planting, roots that are too long are shortened, and diseased, rotten or dry parts are carefully cut off. Strawberry roots must be soaked for an hour and a half in a container with growth stimulator "Epin" or "Kornevin". Good result gives soaking the roots in an aqueous garlic infusion. Such preventive measure significantly increases the natural immunity of the berry plant, and also helps to repel harmful insects at the rooting stage.

Landing instructions with diagrams, drawings and details

Autumn planting of strawberries is a priority in many regions, but seedlings of berry crops should be planted only on a fairly warm and cloudy, rainy day is best. At the same time, the soil on the prepared ridges should be moist.

In open ground

Prepared strawberry seedlings are planted in several ways. Gardeners use single-row, as well as two-row methods. The principle of the first planting option assumes a distance between ribbons of 60–70 cm and a distance between bushes of 15–20 cm, but a two-row method is more effective. In this case, the distance between the tapes is 65–70 cm, and between the rows - about 30 cm. Seedling bushes are planted with a distance of 15–20 cm.

Some gardeners prefer planting berry seedlings on the ridges. This method is perfect for arranging in areas where there is stagnant water or groundwater is too close. The ridges should be located from south to north, and seedling material planted in two rows. Many gardeners also practice the so-called compact planting of strawberry bushes, which makes it easy to get rid of those who died during the spring. winter period or too weak, unproductive plants.

Under spunbond, agrofibre or film

IN last years in the conditions of home gardening, the method of planting strawberries under spunbond, agrofiber or film is increasingly being used. Planting strawberry seedlings under black covering material is carried out in order to reduce labor costs and to increase yields by about 25–30%. The bottom line is effective protection berry plantings from drying out of the soil, freezing of the root system into too strong winter frosts, soil erosion, as well as excessive active growth weeds.

Strawberries on black covering material

High-quality covering material in the form of spunbond, agrofiber or film is resistant to UV rays, and also has water and air permeability. Such modern covering films can have different width, which allows them to be used on beds of various sizes. Nevertheless, when connecting two or more strips of fabric, they must overlap. The standard entry of one canvas to another cannot be less than 20 cm.

After preparing the ridge, carrying out deep loosening of the soil, making mineral supplement and organics, it is necessary to prepare special studs for reliable fixation of the covering material. For this purpose, the wire is cut into not too long segments and bent in half. The planting area is covered with agrofiber, spunbond or film, and the canvas itself is fixed with metal pins along the perimeter and lines of combining strips. Corners, as well as junctions, can be pressed to the ground with stones, as well as boards or any other heavy elements.

If the landing site covered with agrofibre is too wide, then it is very important to equip boardwalks or tiled passages between rows of berry bushes. After the tracks are made, markings are made on the covering material using chalk. The distance between the grooves should be 60–80 cm, and between the plants in each row - about 15–20 cm.

In accordance with the markup sharp knife cruciform incisions are made, and the resulting corners are bent outward. Conventional landing holes are made under the cruciform incisions. If necessary, they must be filled fertile soil, after which they are watered with warm and settled water. Strawberry seedlings do not like planting too deep, so the heart berry bush must remain above the soil surface.

What care to provide after landing

Immediately after landing on permanent place strawberries need to be provided with complete care that provides young bushes with the development of the root system. To this end berry plants at the stage of survival, it is necessary to regularly water, do shallow loosening of the soil, as well as preventive treatment against diseases and pests, shelter for the winter.

Watering and fertilizing

Throughout the first week after planting in open ground seedlings should be watered every other day. After the young plants are well rooted, you can cut back and simply keep the soil loose and slightly moist. Watering is carried out in the morning, warmed up in the sun and settled water. It is necessary to avoid getting water on the ground part of the plants. Fertilizers at proper preparation soil for planting will need to be applied for 3-4 years.

Care for strawberries after planting

Preventive actions

Standard preventive treatment of strawberries in the autumn should be carried out in without fail. Without such protection, outdoor plants may be affected by diseases or suffer from pests that often overwinter in the foliage or top layer earth.

For prevention, you need to loosen the soil around the bushes and treat the soil with a solution based on 1.5 tbsp. l. the drug "Karbofos" and 5 liters of warm water. A good result is the use of 2% Bordeaux mixture or a solution prepared using ½ tbsp. l. copper oxychloride and 5 liters of settled water.

Preparing for winter

To berry plantings did not freeze out in a harsh winter with little snow, it is necessary to mulch the plants with dry leaves, peat, spruce branches, corn stalks or straw. Wherein minimum thickness such a protective layer should be 5 cm.

Video: how to transplant strawberries in the fall

Autumn planting of strawberry seedlings in open ground gives positive results only if the implementation technology is observed, and in order to improve the survival of plants, it is necessary to provide the berry with proper and complete care, including watering, prevention and protection.

Victoria is one of the most popular crops for breeding in summer cottages.. This berry is indispensable in the summer diet because of the content of vitamins, organic acids, microelements in it. To receive good harvest berries every year, it is necessary to rejuvenate the plantation from time to time.

Preparing the soil for laying a new berry plantation

It is recommended to choose beds for planting Victoria on the south side of the site. Near, on the north side, you can plant calendula, she will protect Victoria from all kinds of pests and delight with magnificent flowering throughout the summer.

If country cottage area is located in low, excessively moist places; for planting Victoria, low beds (up to 10 cm) are broken. Bushes in this case are planted in one row. The work is done on a cloudy day.

The beds selected for transplantation are dug up to a depth of at least 30 cm. Then up to 8 kg of rotted manure or peat is added to each bed. Do not add lime and fresh manure to the ground. In this case, it will growth of green mass to the detriment of fertility. It can also cause brown leaf spot.

Landing green manure

Another option for soil preparation and fertilization is green manure planting. The green mass of rotted stems, leaves and green manure roots is effective organic fertilizer , excellent food for worms that form humus. Green manure roots, penetrating deep into the soil, improve its structure, make it porous and airy. Plants that are used as green manure:

• lupine;
• Clover;
• rape;
• ryegrass;
• mustard;
• alfalfa;
• rye;
• phacelia;
• buckwheat;
• sweet clover;
• all legumes;
• all cruciferous.

After harvesting early ripe crops, in the third decade of July, the beds are sown with green manure, and after germination they are dug up along with the soil.

Benefits of spring planting

When planted in spring, the bushes have time to take root well before the onset of autumn frosts and give a good harvest in the current season.

After fruiting, the bushes become so exhausted that it is better for them to rest the winter under the snow in the old place, so it is better to transplant them to a new place in the spring.

Transplanting Victoria to a new location

When planting, the distance should be maintained: between bushes - 40 cm, between rows - 80 cm. Garlic can be planted in the aisles, this contributes better defense victoria from pests.

Victoria is transplanted in the spring to a new place for several reasons:

1. Planting young rosettes separated from the mother bush.
2. Transplantation of mature plants to a new location due to a decrease in the yield of the old plantation.

The technique of planting young and adult plants is somewhat different from each other.

Planting young plants

To separate young plants from the mother bush, well-developed specimens of the first order are selected, already having 3-4 leaves. Plant them on a new a place with a clod of earth. The roots of young plants are usually not very developed, so they do not require pruning. A weak root system needs abundant watering, so a young plant needs careful care, especially in dry weather - this will increase the resistance of plants to adverse environmental conditions.

indicator bush survival in a new place, the appearance of new, young leaves is considered. The mustache of the first order from the mother bush is usually enough to break a new bed. During budding (the beginning of flowering), it is recommended to spray the bushes infusion of garlic or celandine to protect against harmful insects.

Transplantation of adult plants in order to rejuvenate the berry plantation

On the prepared beds, they dig large holes with a shovel, place a plant with a large clod of earth. Long roots (more than 12 cm) are cut with scissors.

Important! It is necessary to ensure that the roots of the plant do not bend when planting. Otherwise, you won't have to wait for big harvests.

Cover the hole with earth and press the plant a little. If the soil is clayey, it is not recommended to compact the plantings, otherwise dense, compacted soil will not work. the plant develops well.

Victoria, transplanted with a large clod of earth, takes root well, does not require abundant watering and gives a stable harvest in the first year.

General landing rules

Plant must be planted so that his kidney (heart) was above ground level. Sometimes it is difficult to achieve this while filling it with earth, so after planting, you can slightly pull the bushes up until the bud is released from the ground.

After landing the soil is shed abundantly and mulch. Mulching is the most important agricultural technique that solves several useful tasks at once:

• increases soil fertility;
• reduces the death of planted plants;
• increases yields, makes them more stable;
• facilitates care - the number of weeds decreases, and the soil becomes looser;
• prevents overheating of the soil (very important for the southern regions of the country);
• in cold winters protects the roots from freezing.

For mulching, the soil is covered with sawdust, compost, peat, chopped grass. IN Lately inorganic materials are used as mulch - black and opaque film. Gravel, slate, marble chips, multi-colored synthetic material are also used. This mulch is very decorative, but it can be used if the soil has a full-fledged organic nutrition.

Commonly used as mulch:

• tree leaves;
• needles,
• small chips;
• newspapers;
• chips;
• compost;
• leaf humus.

Fertilize twice a season (during flowering and after fruiting) berry culture. To do this, you can use a 10-day fermented infusion of mullein, grass or ash. After the end of the fruiting season, the transplanted strawberries begin to grow vigorously mustaches. If they are not needed for reproduction, they must be removed in a timely manner (at least 3 times a month). This will increase the winter hardiness of the bushes, which means the amount of harvest next year. If you skip the time for cutting the mustache, the berries will become small and tasteless.

Plants transplanted in spring are doing well. already this summer and give a good harvest of healthy, large berries, and the lush flowering of a young healthy berry plantation will please any gardener.

Strawberries are a very tasty dessert and quite profitable business for modern farmers. Therefore, many are trying to grow it on their site and are wondering if it is possible to propagate strawberries with a mustache. Reproduction is possible.

In the first year, the mustache is removed from each bush, and when the fruits ripen, they choose strong bushes that differ large berries. They are noted to be used to propagate strawberries with whiskers.

Such bushes are called "uterine". The next year, do not allow the appearance of berries on the mother bushes. For this remove all buds before the flowering period begins.

The best time to transplant is spring and early summer. Within a month, mustaches will appear on the mother bushes, on which rosettes will be tied. Large rosettes next to the mother bush have branched roots and are used to prop up seedlings and to propagate strawberries.

The rest of the whiskers are not used for further reproduction, so they cut with sharp scissors by making an oblique cut. Often you have to remove the mustache several times a season.

You can not separate the mustache with a strong rosette from the mother bush.

Mustache breeding methods

Strawberry propagation options:

1. With the use of cups (pots).
2. Landing on the beds.

How to propagate in pots

Necessary:

• Prepare small cups (pots). Fill with fertilizer.
• Plant an outlet in a pot. Seedlings are left on the site, 1/3 of the height buried in the soil.
• The shoot is watered daily. Make sure there are no puddles.

How to breed in the beds

1. Prepare the soil. Put peat and sawdust on the bed - fertilizer for strawberries.
2. Pin sockets to the ground, deepen into plowed soil. In this case, the tail will be visible in the soil, and the outlet - above the ground.
3. Water and care, as for other seedlings.

The right time to trim and transplant mustaches

A couple of weeks before planting, cut the mustache connecting the outlet to the mother bush. Young plants will begin to feed on their own roots. You need to separate the outlet from the main bush in time otherwise the yield will decrease..

Infected and damaged leaves are also cut off. If young plant wilts, it is shaded and watered so that it begins to feed on its own.

Plants are transplanted into open ground after they take root. With early planting, the plants will get stronger by winter, and the root system will become branched and powerful, which will allow them to overwinter.

Sometimes by the middle of summer in June does not grow right amount mustache for transplant. Then shoots to propagate are collected throughout the season. But we must not forget that it is better to take such a mustache and transplant it to a permanent place. early autumn no later than September, since bushes planted later will not survive the winter.

How to cut correctly

Mandatory rules:

1. Mustache trimmed in dry, sunny weather. It is advisable to prune in the morning or evening in spring or summer.
2. For cutting, use sharp garden scissors or a small pruner, cut at a distance 10 centimeters from the mother bush.

What mistakes are made

1. Circumcision is carried out in rainy spring or in hot sunny time. In hot weather, plants are susceptible to diseases. In damp weather, the risk of fungal and bacterial infection through the cut increases.
2. Short cut off the mustache. Leads to drying out.
3. Tear off mustache. Together with the tendril, you can completely remove the plant or partially cut off the tender roots.

Rules for planting a cropped mustache

Breeding rules step by step:

• • The bed should be located on a flat area, there may be a slight slope facing the southwest. There should be no trees nearby. Strawberry photophilous plant, with a little sunlight, the berries will be small and unsweetened.
  • Use soil that contains a lot of sand. clay soil will create waterlogging, which will lead to rotting of the roots.
  • Before planting, remove the weeds along with the rhizome. If the site is not cleared, the quality of strawberry growth and harvest will be affected.
  • Dig deep into the earth 25 centimeters
  • It is necessary to plant bushes in the garden in wet weather.
  • Bed width approx. 1 meter.

Use a single-line or two-line disembarkation method:

• • One-liner- the lines (beds) are at a distance of 60-80 centimeters from each other, and the bushes in the garden are at a distance of 15-20 centimeters.
  • two line- the distance between the beds is 60-80 centimeters, and the gap between plants is 20-40 centimeters.
• Water the soil before and after planting strawberries. The soil must always be moist.
• plant in one row no more than 2 varieties of strawberries.
• Place seedlings of several varieties in rows - 1-3 rows of each variety.

When planting seedlings, the "heart" should be at ground level. If it is located below - the plant will begin to rot, above - it will dry out or freeze.

To understand if a strawberry bush is planted correctly, need to pull a little. When properly planted, the plant does not pull out.

• When planting seedlings use about 0.5-0.7 liters of water per seedling. Then, for two weeks, seedlings are irrigated 2-3 times a day, after which watering is reduced - after 1-2 days. Irrigation is carried out along the furrows.
• Loosening is necessary. Allows moisture to be better retained in the ground and promotes aeration of the root system, prevents the appearance of a crust on the ground. Rigid earth is first watered abundantly, and only then loosened. When loosening, you can slightly spud seedlings.
• 3-4 weeks after planting strawberries, an inspection of the seedlings is necessary. If dead or withered plants are found, they removed and replaced with new ones.
• Weed regularly.
• For the winter the landing is insulated. Pine needles are used, it passes air well and protects from frost.

Growing strawberries is difficult process, the main thing is to adhere to the basic rules. It is necessary to choose the right mother bushes, prepare the seedlings, trim the mustache in a timely manner, prepare the soil well, remove and remove weeds, give top dressing and follow the instructions.

Provide constant care for both rosettes and seedlings throughout the summer season. And then it will be possible to achieve good fruiting and harvest a rich harvest.

Many people do not want to eat purchased berries and grow them on their own in their plots. Sweet and rich strawberries are rightfully recognized as one of the most popular crops. It can be found in many gardens. However, only well-groomed and properly planted bushes give really tasty and juicy Victoria berries. Today we will consider in detail how to plant strawberries and how to properly care for them.

Optimal timing

Before you start planting strawberries, you should figure out when is the best time to do this. It is worth considering that optimal time planting strawberries directly depends on its particular variety. For example, for early and remontant species of a given culture, the timing will vary.

The development of the root system of Victoria takes place in waves. Thus, the first stage of rapid growth usually falls on early spring. Strawberries grow most effectively if they are in sufficiently warm soil, the temperature of which is +9 or +10 degrees. The next active phase comes into effect after the fruiting process. It gradually fades away in July, when the maximum temperatures for the summer are kept in the yard.

There is another phase of strawberry growth. It falls at the end of August and the beginning of September. During this autumn period, the soil temperature gradually decreases and reaches a mark of +20 degrees. For this reason, it is so important to refer to appropriate agricultural practices aimed at normalizing temperature parameter earth. It could be drip irrigation or mulching. With such techniques, the root system will develop almost continuously, and the second and third phases will become one.

Concerning early varieties strawberries, their fruit buds are laid at temperatures of +16 or +18 degrees (under conditions of short daylight hours). New plants begin to be created only after the fruiting process - at this time, the antennae quietly break through, fresh rosettes appear. This usually happens in June or July. Fresh shoots take root only in July-August. The laying and differentiation of the kidneys usually takes place in September-October. Closer to the winter season, strong leaves with a leathery surface grow - they still have to endure frosts. The roots that were formed in the fall live for about 7-9 months, that is, from August to April. They will act as the basis for a new crop.

Because of this, if we decide to plant Victoria in August or September, then we will be able to 100% realize the potential of the chosen crop, since the root system will have time to fully develop.

As for remontant varieties, they form buds regardless of the time of daylight hours. They are recommended to be planted in April-May. If choose spring planting, then the active fruiting of the culture will occur in the second half summer season. If you plant remontant varieties in the fall, there will be few advantages from this - you only have to cover the plant, since these types of strawberry bushes are very thermophilic.

Contrary to popular belief, many experts and experienced gardeners strongly do not recommend planting Victoria in the summer. This is due to the fact that seedlings may not withstand heat and heat.

Training

Before planting strawberries in your area, you need to correctly carry out preparatory work. Moreover, you will need to prepare not only plants, but also the ground. You can not neglect this stage, otherwise you can not expect a good harvest - you will only waste your time and energy. Consider step by step instructions how to prepare all the necessary components.

Seedling

Transplantation of berry seedlings must be carried out on a cloudy day - it should not be hot outside. It is better to check the weather forecast for a few days in advance in order to plan everything. An hour and a half before transplanting, the bush must be thoroughly watered. You can use not only ordinary water, but also warm solution humus (not too strong) or herbal tincture of the same temperature. Further, when the seedlings have already been dug up, its rhizomes will need to be soaked in a specialized composition for 1.5-2 hours. There are several popular solutions in use today that many gardeners turn to.

• growth biostimulant. The use of this tool is considered the simplest. To do this, they buy a certain growth stimulant and insist seedlings in it. Such a solution is especially suitable for those who can independently choose the optimal composition.
• Herbal starter. There are several actual recipes for preparing such top dressing. For example, nettles and green parts can be used. leguminous plants. They are flooded warm water, fall asleep with double superphosphate and leave for fermentation. It usually takes about 1-2 weeks to prepare this natural composition. The content of this solution will contain nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. You can also soak seedlings in it, and later use it as top dressing.

• Garlic solution. With the help of garlic, you can scare away planting from various insects. It is crushed, added to warm water, and then the roots of the plant are soaked in the resulting composition.

When choosing young bushes for transplantation, it is worth considering some important parameters.

• Each bush should have 3-5 leaves (fresh and without spots / damage).
• Rhizomes should be neat and straight, devoid of putrefactive traces. Density should be medium.
• The length of the roots of seedlings should not be more than 10-12 cm. If the rhizomes are longer, then they must be shortened with scissors on their own. It is forbidden to cut them by hand.

There are 2 methods of harvesting seedlings - from antennae or seeds. It is advised to resort to the use of seeds only if you want to grow a new variety in your area. When growing seedlings from seeds, it is better to use wet sand with fertilizers. The latter should be decontaminated if you collected it from the forest. This can be done by heating the sand in the oven.

When growing strawberries from tendrils, it is worth selecting well-grown and dense bushes, on which mustaches will be grown in the future. In the spring, all ovaries must be cut from such bushes so that they can reproduce vegetatively. In July, you will need to choose 1-2 sockets from each tendril.

Approximately 1.5-2 weeks before planting, the sockets will need to be carefully separated from the mustache, so that the seedlings will quickly adapt to the new place.

The soil

Properly preparing seedlings for future landing, you can proceed to the preparation of the soil. Must select suitable site for planting plants. The land should be located in a well-lit place, since Victoria loves him very much. Without sufficient lighting, the fruits will not grow large and juicy, and their sweetness may suffer from this. In addition, there will not be a good harvest of strawberries in the shade.

You also need to pay attention to the moisture level of the soil in which you plan to plant the crop. Victoria loves water, but it shouldn't be too much. In wetlands, the berry will grow very poorly. The groundwater level should be no closer than 1.5 m from the surface. In addition, the soil should be loosened (but not too much), fertile and have a neutral acid level. In the case where its acidity is high, before landing work you will need to supplement it with calcium fertilizers or turn to the use of slaked lime. To reduce the acidity of the earth, it is permissible to use cement waste, since they also contain calcium.

It is also important to consider what kind of plants previously grew in the selected area. Victoria will not be able to "live" in those places where sunflowers, cabbage or other nightshades previously grew.

It won't even help correct handling soil. But if there used to be carrots or parsley in the allotted place, then strawberries can be safely planted there - it will develop well.

Before planting Victoria, the soil will need to be properly cultivated. The pre-selected area will need to be dug up to the depth of the bayonet, and then carefully remove weeds from its surface. The first cop should be done in October/November, and the second one in the spring or summer before planting. You will need to thoroughly loosen the ground, otherwise it will be problematic for the rhizomes to germinate. Victoria does not grow well in overly dense soil.

Be sure to remove all weeds. It is advisable to do this by hand - do not use herbicides, because they can harm the seedlings. There are several steps to getting rid of weeds. First, weed grass is removed by hand (if there is not too much of it), they dig up the earth, after which they proceed to harvest the remaining roots. If the weeds have grown very densely in the selected area, then they will need to be mowed. Then they dig and loosen the earth, and finally destroy the roots with a rake. It is desirable to carry out such work in the fall. In the spring, the earth can be dug up again, while removing the remaining inclusions.

Fertilize the soil well before planting strawberries. Feeding should be neither too little nor too much. You can add a combination of organic and mineral fertilizers. But do not overdo it with organic matter, otherwise the plants may later become "targets" for fungal diseases.

Planting bushes

The scheme for planting strawberries in open ground is quite simple and understandable. Planting bushes should be done on a cloudy day, when it doesn’t keep too much on the street. hot weather. Let's do it in the evening. Be sure to water the seedlings an hour before planting. It is advisable to moisten the seedling material in water or a special biostimulant according to the scheme described earlier.

Note - healthy seedling should have 3-4 strong leaves and sufficiently developed rhizomes. Now you need to fix each strawberry bush in such a way that its growth point is at the same level with the top of the bed, and the root system is straightened along the edges of the mound prepared in advance for planting.

Further, carefully supporting the bush, it is required to fill it with pre-prepared soil and immediately water it. This is done in order to maximize the effective interaction of roots and soil. It is required to ensure that the growth point does not go too deep or is too much “lifted up” above the ground.

Victoria must be seated very carefully and carefully. Don't make too sudden movements. Try not to damage the seedlings.

Care

Do not think that work with Victoria ends with her landing. In the future, this crop will require careful care, without which you will not have to count on a good harvest. Consider step by step how you will need to take care of strawberry bushes so that it grows healthy and gives rich harvests.

mustache trimming

If you want strawberry bushes to give a good and rich harvest with large and sweet fruits, then you should cut off all the whiskers from them twice a season.

The first time to carry out this procedure will be needed at the very beginning of the growing season. This is necessary so that the plant does not spend extra energy on the growth of antennae, but sends all the nutrients to the formation of high-quality berries. If you neglect such a simple procedure, the berries, of course, will ripen, but they will be small and grow in small numbers. And the taste of them will be far from ideal.

The second time the strawberry mustache will grow at the end of the fruitful period. This time they will again need to be cut, and at the very base. But be aware that shoots are usually quite strong, so the antennae should never be pulled out by hand. Otherwise, you risk pulling out the bush along with the roots.

Pruning is permissible only with a special garden pruner or scissors with sufficiently sharp blades.

top dressing

We must not forget that freshly planted strawberries always require mulching. Most often, needles are used for these purposes. This component prevents the development of various plant diseases, and also repels different kind pests. Instead of needles, it is permissible to use straw, dry grass or foliage. It is also important to remember about proper feeding strawberries. You should proceed to this stage approximately 2 weeks after the completion of planting work.

This procedure must be carried out both in spring and autumn. In addition, it is advisable to feed the culture immediately after the fruiting period (if you did not have time with this business, then you can carry out such work in the fall). Victoria fertilizer at the end of the fruitful stage and harvesting is most often carried out using high-quality organic products. There are plenty of them, but most gardeners use mullein (dung) or chicken manure.

Often add wood ash, which can easily replace superphosphate and potassium salt. As for mineral fertilizers, here people often stop at the previously mentioned potassium salt or urea. However, experts advise turning to these funds if you have no organic matter left.

Top dressing will be needed for this culture after the process autumn pruning. This procedure is necessary for growing sweet fruits. After that, it is permissible to turn to fertilizer in the form of potassium humate. Next, you need to thoroughly loosen the ground, carefully and carefully cover the garden bed and do not touch it until spring.

Of course, each summer resident chooses such top dressing, which he considers the best for his garden. To date, there are many options for such funds. It can be not only organic or mineral options, but also ordinary ammonia, iodine, yeast, nettle tincture or even whey infusion, called fermented milk.

Keep in mind for the future that young plants that are only 1 year old may not need to be fertilized in the spring.

If, in the process of planting, an insufficient amount of fertilizer was used, then it will not be possible to do without this procedure. Top dressing is usually placed on the ground, previously cleared of any litter.

Loosening and weeding

If you have cut off all unnecessary mustaches from Victoria bushes, then you can start weeding the beds in order to get rid of annoying weeds, as well as further loosen the soil between the rows of beds. This is necessary so that the roots of the planted vegetation receive the necessary amount of oxygen.

When loosening, try to stay away from Victoria rhizomes. As a rule, they are at shallow depths.

It is advisable to indent from the seedling by about 12-15 cm.

After loosening the earth, it is permissible to pour a little more fresh soil under the bushes. This stage is required so that the roots do not break out during the summer growth. Then the exposed root can cause the entire bush to freeze with the onset of winter cold. For the same reason, the yield in the next season may be quite low.

Watering

Watering Victoria should not be stopped, even if it has long ceased to bear fruit, especially when you consider the fact that July and August are the hottest summer months, which are often quite dry. Plantings in such conditions simply need good watering.

Watering strawberries is required at least once every 7-10 days.

Do not bring the situation to the point where the plantings themselves indicate that they lack watering. The bushes can noticeably wilt, the foliage will gradually begin to dry out. However, it is impossible to transfuse such plantings.

With the onset autumn season If frequent rains begin to fall, then you yourself will not need to water the berries - nature will do everything for you. But if the autumn turns out to be too dry, then you will need to moisten the bushes yourself and do it regularly, since the laying of flower buds will depend on this.

Disease and pest control

Novice gardeners are often interested in "When to transplant strawberries in the fall, in what month is it best to do this?" Unfortunately, hard to give a clear answer .

The time and timing of transplantation is affected by the region where the crop is grown, the growing method and technology, grading, as well as climatic conditions.

Timing transplant in the fall

Looking closely at the bushes at the end of summer, it is clear that those strawberries that give a mustache will look completely different from beardless, and this will be noticed by a person who does not even own the intricacies of agricultural technology of this culture.

Transplant without mustache

The beardless strawberry reproduces by producing rosettes from the root, the so-called root shoots.

1. By August, the bush grows, and if you dig it up and divide it into small rosettes, then from one you can get up to a dozen. It is possible to divide such bushes in the spring, but it will lose time for rooting and the harvest will be meager. If the division is carried out in August, then the rosettes will take root and have time to lay flower buds.

   

   Over time, the strawberry bush grows and the ratio of roots and fruit buds becomes insufficient for good fruiting.

2. The selection of uterine bushes is carried out at the time of harvest . You can not leave this procedure for the fall, since some bushes give lush shoots, but do not give berries - they are unsuitable for the selection of queen cells.

   

   The best strawberry bushes are selected for division.

3. Having looked at a fruitful bush, they mark it . It is best to cut plastic labels from boxes, bottles, any container. You can use wooden pegs painted with bright paint and stick near a fruitful bush. If the mark is bright (yellow, blue, red), then finding such a bush is very simple. It is he who is dug up for division and transplantation.
4. The marked bush after harvesting should be spud . For this, compost or fresh humus is best suited. As a rule, after hilling, the root system immediately begins its development, and by autumn, the planting material is of the highest quality.

   

   For division, you need to dig out the selected bush and wash its roots.

5. Moisture is a prerequisite for obtaining good planting material. . If there is no rain and drip irrigation can be watered by sprinkling. In the absence of the possibility of watering, it makes no sense to break up a strawberry garden.

   

   On each division, you should get 2-3 leaves and several healthy roots.

"Mustachioed" transplant

If the strawberry gives a mustache, then the variety will multiply by them. However, there are some peculiarities here as well.

For reproduction, no more than two outlets are left on each mustache.

The selection of bushes for reproduction is carried out in the same way as for beardless, during the fruiting period.

The number of whiskers that a strawberry bush gives is genetically determined, and is hallmark each variety. When breeding such strawberries, there is a rule - we select only the first two rosettes from each mustache. Therefore, as soon as the formation and rooting of two rosettes has passed, the mustache must be cut off.

If the variety is especially valuable, and you need to propagate from several bushes, then gardeners arrange a whole Kindergarten, and they manage to "baby" even 6 outlets. However, such an event is the exception rather than the rule.

If the mustache is rooted in pots, then it will be easier to plant them in a permanent place.

Having designated bushes-mother liquors, it is necessary:

• monitor the looseness of the soil in which the outlet takes root;
• timely pour a nutrient soil mixture under the sockets (humus, compost);
• monitor the constant humidity of rooting sites.

If you neglect these measures, then the sockets will come out Low quality , and rooting will be poor at any time of transplantation.

Rooting sockets need to be watered, loosened and ensure that the roots do not protrude above the ground.

Bush transplant

Having dug up a bush of beardless strawberries, it should be divided with a knife. A well-formed, mature plot should have good root system and an outlet.

A young strawberry bush is planted in a prepared hole, placing its “heart” at soil level.

If we transplant the "whiskered", then. Further nutrients from the mustache they will go into the root system, and the mustache itself will dry out and fall off.

If it is not possible to land immediately after digging, then the sockets can be placed in water or wrapped in a well-moistened cloth. The period during which the seedlings can wait 6-7 days, but it all depends on the temperature. The higher the thermometer readings, the less seedlings should wait for planting. Having chosen a good day, they start planting bushes.

conclusions

Tighten in deep autumn should not be, since the young roots should get stronger and cling well to the soil lump.

It is advisable to cover fresh plantings of strawberries for the winter with fallen leaves.

Video on how to update old strawberry bushes on your site