Choosing spring fertilizer for the garden. What does an amateur gardener need to know about fertilizing fruit and berry plants? What fertilizer to apply to the ground in the fall

All gardeners know that almost immediately after harvesting, you need to prepare the site for the next season - dig up the ground and apply fertilizer. At first glance, this seems like an elementary task, but in reality, everything does not look so simple - the process requires certain conditions to be met, otherwise the result will be far from expected. How is the digging of the earth carried out in the fall, and what rules must be followed in order to get good fruit in future?

Before autumn digging was considered an obligatory stage of soil care, and after the onset of the first cold weather, all land owners without fail took up shovels. Today, many gardeners and gardeners consider it a useless and even harmful event, and its adherents and opponents cite various arguments in defense of their point of view.

Arguments for"

If you believe the arguments that are made in favor of seasonal digging, the procedure significantly improves the characteristics of the soil and increases the chances of obtaining good harvest.

Attention! Digging the earth should not be confused with loosening - in the first case, the soil is thrown in a vertical direction, affecting its deep layers, and in the second, only the top layer is exposed.

Arguments against"

Opponents of autumn digging argue that intervention in the deep structures of the soil leads to negative consequences and contributes to the disruption of the processes that occur there, which is why the earth has to recover for a long time.

Important! Earthworms can really be called best friends gardeners and gardeners, therefore it is categorically not recommended to destroy these animals.

Do I need to dig the earth in the fall

Adherents and opponents of seasonal digging of the earth agree on one thing - in the autumn, the soil requires appropriate processing. Instead of wielding a shovel, some gardeners choose to mulch the beds, that is, they are covered with mowed grass or hay, sometimes with compost. True, such an event is more time-consuming and is far from suitable for all regions - in places with high humidity fungi or other pathogenic microorganisms can settle under the mulch, which will cause plantings to hurt.

At the same time, digging the earth should not be abused either. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to carry out such an event only in the following cases:

Loose and sandy soils do not need deep working - they should be loosened well enough, and only areas with a large number of weeds should be dug up. Frequent digging in such areas is harmful, as they can disrupt the natural structure of the soil. It is not recommended to carry out the procedure in areas of water and wind erosion, as well as on too wet and swampy soils.

Advice! The humidity in the area can be checked using simple test- take a handful of earth and crush it a little in your hands. If the lump is well formed, but the hands remain clean, then the soil moisture is optimal, if dirt remains on the palms, the moisture is excessive, and if the lump does not form at all, it is insufficient.

Terms of digging the earth in the fall

It is necessary to dig up the earth before the first frost and snow, when the temperature is set at 10-19 degrees. It is not worth carrying out the procedure during heavy precipitation - snow buried deep into the ground will make it difficult to warm it up in the spring, and digging during periods heavy rains will only compact the earth. If you dig up the garden when the sun is still shining with might and main outside the window, beneficial microorganisms will die, and the layers will dry out too much. The best time to start the event is the end of September or the beginning of October.

On average, digging is recommended to be carried out 15 cm deep, but it is also necessary to take into account the types of plants that will grow in one or another part of the garden - for root crops, the depth is 25-30 cm, for other crops 12-15 cm. just shift, cleaning out the roots of weeds, and do not break large earthen piles - they will not allow the soil to compact during heavy rainfall.

In addition, it is recommended to immediately designate the scope of work - arrange the site into beds and passages, lay them with stones or turf, and then dig up the plots intended for planting. If the garden is located on a slope, digging should always go across it, and on steep slopes it is better to arrange the beds with ledges.

As a tool for work, you can choose a well-sharpened bayonet shovel or "American". For shallow digging or loosening, you can choose a pitchfork - with their help, you can effectively “comb out” the roots of weeds. It is better to dig large areas with a walk-behind tractor or a cultivator - the process will go much faster and more efficiently.

Important! Autumn digging of the garden can facilitate the spring cultivation of the land, but will not be able to replace it, and if the deadlines for the event are missed, it is better to refuse it - mistakes during its implementation will cause serious harm to the soil.

Video - Digging the earth in autumn

What fertilizer to apply to the ground in the fall

One of the stages of soil treatment, which is carried out along with digging or loosening, is top dressing of the soil, which will increase its fertility and saturate it with nutrients. Especially in this procedure, loamy and clay soils are needed, which in winter period compressed so much that almost nothing grows on them.

They need to be dug into autumn period and apply one, and sometimes several types of fertilizers. The procedure requires compliance with certain conditions, primarily the amount and frequency of application of nutrients.

Table 1. Fertilizers for the soil.

The general rule that applies to almost all fertilizers is that it is not recommended to apply them too deeply (especially for organic mixtures), otherwise they will not decompose, but oxidize, which will significantly worsen the composition of the soil.

At proper conduct and observing all the conditions, autumn digging of the garden will significantly improve the characteristics of the soil, increase its fertility and the chances of getting a good harvest.

WHAT AN AMATEUR GARDENER SHOULD KNOW ABOUT FERTILIZER OF FRUIT AND BERRY PLANTS?

183. WHAT NUTRITION ELEMENTS ARE NECESSARY FOR FRUIT AND BERRY PLANTS?

Certainly necessary for fruit and berry plants are the following chemical elements: carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, sulfur, magnesium and iron. These elements are absorbed by plants in relatively large quantities, so they are called macronutrients. Some chemical elements are necessary for fruit and berry plants in very small quantities, so they are called microelements. These include boron, manganese, copper, molybdenum, cobalt and others. Most often, the lack of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and some trace elements is felt in the soil.

184. FROM WHERE DO FRUIT AND BERRY PLANTS GET THE NUTRITIONAL ELEMENTS?

Fruit and berry plants absorb most of the nutrients from the soil, some (oxygen and carbon) are obtained from the air, and hydrogen from water.

185. IN WHAT FORM NUTRIENTS CAN BE ASSIMBED BY FRUIT AND BERRY PLANTS?

Fruit and berry plants absorb nutrients only in a dissolved state. Any nutrient found in the soil must be dissolved in water. Otherwise, it cannot be absorbed by the fruit or berry plant. It should be noted that in the soil, nutrients are dissolved in water in very small concentrations. It follows from this that a large amount of water is needed for plant nutrition.

186. IN WHAT SEASONS OF THE YEAR DO FRUIT AND BERRY PLANTS CONSUMP THE MOST NUTRIENTS?

The rate of assimilation nutrients fruit and berry plants depends on air temperature and soil moisture. The most intensive growth of fruit and berry plants is observed in spring and in the first half of summer. It is during this period that the largest number nutrients.

187. IS EXCESS OF NUTRIENTS IN THE SOIL HARMFUL FOR FRUIT AND BERRY PLANTS?

An increase in the concentration of the soil solution due to lack of water or due to an increase in nutrient content leads to confusion in the development of fruit plants. Therefore, the introduction of excessively high doses of fertilizers for fruit and berry plants can be harmful. For example, with an excess of nitrogen in the soil in the second half of the growing season, the wood of plants does not ripen and may freeze in winter. In young trees, an excess of nitrogen leads to strong growth of shoots and late entry into fruiting.

188. WHAT FERTILIZERS ARE USED IN GARDENING?

Fertilizers used in gardening are organic and mineral. Organic fertilizers include manure, compost, slurry and green manure crops. Mineral fertilizers are divided into nitrogen, phosphorus, potash, calcium and microfertilizers. The most valuable and useful fertilizer is manure.

189. WHAT IS MANURE?

Solid and liquid feces of domestic animals, together with bedding, is called manure. Fresh manure is not suitable for fertilizing fruit and berry plants. It is better to use rotted manure or humus for this purpose.

190. HOW SHOULD MANURE BE STORED?

Need to store manure in the following way. A shady area is chosen, located away from residential buildings, on which the place of the future heap is marked in the form of a regular quadrangle. Manure is put thin layers(15-20 cm), sprinkling each layer with superphosphate at the rate of 2% of the weight of the manure. If the manure is very dry, it is moistened, after which it is well compacted. Putting manure and superphosphate interspersed in this way, they make a pile 100-120 cm high. If possible, it is very good to add peat to the manure. In this case, the first and last layers of the heap must be peat.

If there is no peat, it can be replaced with ordinary soil, only less soil should be laid - about 30% of the weight of manure. It is useful to cover the top and sides of the heap with sod. During prolonged drought in summer period pile should be watered periodically.

191. MANURE OF WHICH ANIMALS IS MOST USEFUL FOR FRUIT AND BERRY PLANTS?

Depending on the type of animal, manure is horse, cow, sheep, pig, bird. The content of nutrients in manure depends on the type of pet and the feed and bedding used.

The first place in terms of fertilizing action is occupied by bird manure, the second by sheep manure, and then horse and cow manure follows. Pig manure is the poorest in nutrients. The content of nutrients in various types of manure is presented in Table 3.

192. BY WHAT SIGNS IS IT POSSIBLE TO DETERMINE WHETHER THE MANURE IS ALTERED?

Fresh manure is light brown in color. The color of the straw used for bedding has changed slightly.

Semi-rotted manure becomes darker brown in color, and the straw loses its strength.

The rotted manure is a black smeared mass. The straw has decomposed to such an extent that it is difficult to detect individual straws.

Completely decomposed manure - humus - is a loose dark brown earthy mass.

193. WHAT IS COMPOST AND WHAT IS IT USED FOR?

Compost is a rotted organic fertilizer from various waste and garbage. plant origin. For composting weeds, tops garden plants, leaves of fruit and berry plants, sawdust, peat and various organic waste are collected in a pile, which is shoveled and watered several times during the summer. Under no circumstances should undecomposed compost containing viable weed seeds be used.

194. IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE PURE PEAT FOR FERTILIZER?

Peat decomposes very slowly and the nutrients contained in it cannot be quickly used by fruit and berry plants. The nutrients contained in peat can be used more fully when composting it with slurry. If there is no slurry, peat must be kept for at least one year before use. compost heap to get the known expansion. In amateur gardens with relatively heavy soils, peat can be used as a fertilizer with the addition of lime at the rate of 50-60 kg per 1 ton of peat. The introduction of peat improves the physical properties and air permeability of the soil.

195. WHAT FERTILIZERS ARE MINERAL?

Fertilizers prepared by the chemical industry and containing only one, less often two or more nutrients, are called mineral. In horticulture, the following are used mineral fertilizers: nitrogen, potash, calcium (lime), manganese, boric and others.

196. WHAT FERTILIZERS ARE NITROGEN?

Nitrogen is the main nutrient in nitrogen fertilizers. It is contained in various forms, in view of which nitrogen fertilizers are of various types: ammonia (ammonium sulphate, ammonium nitrate), nitrate (ammonium nitrate), calcium (lime) nitrate, potassium nitrate and amide (calcium cyanamide and urea).

197. ON WHAT SOILS CAN WE EXPECT A GOOD RESULT FROM THE APPLICATION OF NITROGEN FERTILIZERS?

The most effective nitrogen fertilizers are on those soils that contain little mobile nitrogen. It is least of all in sandy soils, somewhat more in gray forest soils and most of all in chernozem soils. There is no soil that would contain such an amount of mobile nitrogen that fruit and berry plants could bring high yields. Therefore, nitrogen must be applied to all soils, determining the amount of fertilizer depending on the content of mobile nitrogen in the soil.

198. BY WHAT METHODS IS IT POSSIBLE TO FACILITATE THE ABSORPTION OF NITROGEN FROM THE SOIL BY FRUIT AND BERRY PLANTS?

The main activities that contribute to better absorption of nitrogen by fruit and berry plants are tillage and maintaining good soil moisture. When the soil is kept free from weeds and loose and with good moisture, the organic substances in the soil decompose and the water-insoluble nitrogen contained in them passes into a soluble and easily accessible state for plants.

199. WHEN SHOULD I APPLY MINERAL NITROGEN FERTILIZERS TO THE SOIL?

For normal nutrition of fruit and berry plants, it is necessary that there is always enough nitrogen in the soil. The need for regular application of nitrogen fertilizers to the soil is also caused by the fact that nitrogen fertilizers are not fixed by the soil and, if they are not used by fruit and berry plants in short term, can be washed out from the upper to the lower soil horizons. Therefore, nitrogen fertilizers must be applied to the soil several times during the year. Under young fruit trees, nitrogen fertilizers are applied twice a year - half the dose in the second half of April and the other half in late autumn (in the second half of November).

Under fruit-bearing apple trees, 1/3 dose of nitrogen is applied in the fall (together with manure, superphosphate and potassium sulfate), another 1/3 dose is applied in the spring (before flowering, if the year is "full" and after flowering, if the year is "empty") and the rest 1 /3 - at the end of June.

200. HOW SHOULD NITROGEN FERTILIZER BE APPLIED?

The method of applying nitrogen fertilizers in spring, summer and autumn is the same. A certain amount of nitrogen fertilizer is scattered manually over the soil surface, after which hoeing or cultivation is carried out at a shallow depth. To get the full effect of the fertilizer, the soil must be sufficiently moist. Otherwise, the nitrogen fertilizer decomposes and the ammonia escapes.

201. UP TO HOW LONG DURING THE VEGETATION PERIOD CAN NITROGEN FERTILIZER BE APPLIED UNDER YOUNG FRUIT TREES?

The deadline for applying nitrogen fertilizers for young fruit trees is the second half of June. Abundant application of nitrogen fertilizers in young gardens in the second half of the growing season lengthens the period of plant growth and reduces their frost resistance.

202. WHAT MINERAL FERTILIZERS ARE POTASSIUM?

Potash fertilizers are those mineral fertilizers, the main nutrient of which is potassium. Potassium helps fruit and berry plants synthesize sugar and increases their drought resistance, winter hardiness and resistance to fungal diseases. With a lack of potassium in fruit and berry plants, various painful changes occur. The most common potash fertilizer in Bulgaria is potassium sulfate (potassium sulphate).

203. WHAT ARE THE MAIN PROPERTIES OF POTASH FERTILIZERS?

All potash fertilizers are soluble in water. They are fixed and remain in the soil in the place where they are introduced. The degree of immobility of potash fertilizers depends on the type of soil. On light sandy soils, they are fixed weaker, and on heavy soils, they are stronger and remain motionless. Taking this into account, on heavy soils, potash fertilizers should be applied in the fall to a considerable depth, and on sandy soils in the spring, closing them up shallowly.

204. WHEN SHOULD POTASSIUM FERTILIZER BE APPLIED UNDER FRUIT AND BERRY PLANTS?

Potash fertilizers are applied in autumn along with manure and phosphate fertilizers for the main tillage.

205. ON WHAT SOILS SHOULD I APPLY INCREASED DOSES OF POTASSIUM FERTILIZERS?

Sandy and peaty soils are characterized by the lowest content of potassium. Therefore, in gardens planted on such soils, it is necessary to use increased doses of potash fertilizers. Gray forest soils are rich in potassium, so fruit trees growing on such soils should be given little potassium fertilizer.

206. IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE WOOD ASH AS A FERTILIZER AND WHAT MINERAL FERTILIZERS CAN REPLACE IT?

Wood ash contains many various elements nutrition, but most of all potassium - about 10%. Therefore, ash can be used as a fertilizer, especially as a substitute for potash fertilizers. Wood ash also contains in its composition a number of trace elements - boron, manganese and others, in addition, it also contains lime.

207. WHAT WOOD ASH CONTAINS MORE NUTRIENTS?

208. WHEN CAN I FERTILIZE WITH ASH?

Wood ash does not contain chlorine, which is harmful to fruit and berry plants. Therefore, the ash can be used to fill the soil before planting and when planting fruit trees.

Under young and fruit-bearing fruit trees, wood ash can be applied at any time of the year (autumn, spring, summer).

209. IS IT POSSIBLE TO MIX ASH WITH OTHER FERTILIZERS?

Wood ash can be mixed with other fertilizers immediately before being applied to the soil. However, it cannot be kept mixed with other fertilizers for a long time, especially with ammonia. nitrogen fertilizers(with ammonium nitrate), as this causes a loss of nitrogen. Wood ash can be added to superphosphate at the rate of 8% of its weight. When using more ash for mixing, the quality of superphosphate deteriorates. Ash should not be mixed with other phosphate fertilizers. When preparing compost, wood ash is added instead of lime at the rate of 3-4% by weight of the composted material. When using peat ash, the amount is increased by 5-6%.

210. HOW SHOULD WOOD ASH BE STORED?

The nutrients in the ash are very easily washed out by water, which is why it should be stored in a dry place. Potassium oxides are most quickly washed out of the ash.

211. FOR WHAT FRUIT AND BERRY CROPS WOOD ASH FERTILIZER IS MOST USEFUL?

It has been found that the most effective wood ash for raspberries, black currants and strawberries.

212. WHAT MINERAL FERTILIZERS ARE PHOSPHORUS?

Mineral fertilizers, the main nutrient of which is phosphorus, are called phosphorus. Used in horticulture different kinds phosphate fertilizers - superphosphate, phosphorite and bone meal, double superphosphate. They differ from each other both in the content of phosphorus and in the degree of solubility in water. An important property Phosphate fertilizers is that they are firmly fixed in the soil. Therefore, for a more complete use by fruit plants, phosphate fertilizers when applied, it should be embedded deeper into the soil. For garden use, phosphate fertilizers in granular form should be preferred.

213. WHAT PROPERTIES HAVE MINERAL PHOSPHORUS FERTILIZERS?

Water-soluble phosphate fertilizers can be used on both acidic and alkaline soils. Sparingly soluble phosphorus fertilizers (phosphorite and bone meal) are used mainly on acidic soils. In acidic soil, phosphorus becomes available to the plant only under the influence of soil acids or acids secreted by the roots of fruit and berry plants. Therefore, the introduction of insoluble phosphate fertilizers in high doses does not harm fruit and berry plants, but provides them with phosphorus for a longer period than when applying superphosphate.

The effectiveness of the use of phosphorus fertilizers to a large extent depends on the frequency of their application to the soil and on the amount of organic fertilizers used (manure and others). The mobility of phosphate fertilizers depends on the properties of the soil. The uptake of phosphorus by fruit plants is affected by the system of soil maintenance in the garden

214. WHEN SHOULD WE APPLY MINERAL PHOSPHORUS FERTILIZERS DURING THE YEAR?

The application of phosphate fertilizers is always associated with deep tillage. Phosphate fertilizers are applied in autumn. First, they are scattered over the surface of the soil, and then the soil is dug up to a depth of 18-22 cm. Digging near the trees should be carried out parallel to the roots (Fig. 82). Phosphate fertilizers are not applied under fruit trees in summer.

215. IN WHICH CASES PHOSPHORUS FERTILIZERS ARE APPLIED IN INCREASED DOSES?

In higher doses, phosphate fertilizers are applied when preparing the soil for laying a garden. In this case, sparingly soluble phosphate fertilizers (bone or phosphate rock) mixed with superphosphate should be preferred. When applying superphosphate in excessively high doses, it is often possible to observe it in the development of fruit and berry plants. Therefore, the dose of superphosphate should not be more than 90-100 g per sq.m. Sparingly soluble phosphate fertilizers can be applied at very high doses of 400-500 g per sq. m.

216. WHAT IS THE ADVANTAGE OF GRANULATED SUPERPHOSPHATE?

In acidic soils, powdered (non-granulated) superphosphate becomes indigestible for fruit and berry plants. The better the superphosphate is mixed with the soil, i.e., the more complete its contact with the soil, the less it becomes assimilated for plants. To avoid this phenomenon, superphosphate is granulated in the form of small grains (granules) with a diameter of 3-4 mm. In granulated form, superphosphate has less contact with the soil and can be used by plants for a longer time. When preparing composts, it is useful to add superphosphate to the waste used for this purpose.

217. WHICH AREA SHOULD BE FERTILIZED UNDER A FRUIT TREE?

The root system of a fruit-bearing fruit tree covers the entire area under the tree and extends approximately 0.5 m from the outside of the crown projection. Therefore, fertilizers must be applied to this area near the tree.

In order to determine how much fertilizer is needed per tree, you need to know the area to which fertilizer will be applied. To do this, add one to the crown diameter and multiply by 3.14. After that, the resulting area in sq. m is multiplied by the dose of fertilizer per sq. m. To facilitate in tables 4 and 5, the required amounts of mineral fertilizers are given for young trees with different diameters of the near-stem circle.

218. WHEN SHOULD YOUNG FRUIT TREES BE FERTILIZED AFTER PLANTING?

When the soil is well fertilized before planting, and the planting itself is carried out correctly, trees are usually not fertilized for the first two years. After that, mineral and organic fertilizers are applied under young fruit trees, as indicated in tables 4 and 5.

Low doses are used on rich soils, and high doses on poor soils.

219. DOES MINERAL FERTILIZERS NEED TO GRIND BEFORE APPLICATION?

Clumped mineral fertilizers before use should be well crushed and sifted through a sieve with holes of 3-5 mm (Fig. 83), since they introduced into the soil in large pieces cannot be fully used by fruit and berry plants. Potash and phosphate fertilizers can be sifted through a thinner sieve. The crushing of fertilizers is carried out with a wooden mallet, which anyone can easily do.

220. WHAT IS THE ACTIVE (ACTIVE) SUBSTANCE OF MINERAL FERTILIZERS AND HOW TO CALCULATE THE NECESSARY QUANTITY OF FERTILIZER PER UNIT AREA?

The active (active) substance of this fertilizer is that part of it that can be used by the plant. Express the active substance as a percentage. In nitrogen fertilizers, the active substance is nitrogen, in phosphorus - phosphorus, and in potash - potassium. The active substance is designated by the chemical sign of the element contained in this mineral fertilizer: nitrogen - N, phosphorus - P 2 O 5, potassium - K 2 O, magnesium - Mg, etc. Each factory-made bag with fertilizer contains the name of the fertilizer and the content active ingredient in it. If these data are not on the package, they should be looked for in special reference books.

To determine the dose of applying this mineral fertilizer, the indicated amount of the active ingredient is multiplied by 100 and the resulting product is divided by the percentage of the active ingredient of the fertilizer. For example, if we want to 1 sq. m of area to add 18 g of nitrogen and we have ammonium nitrate for location, which contains 33% nitrogen, we will calculate as follows:

(18 × 100) / 33 \u003d 1800 / 33 \u003d 54.54 or 55 g.

Therefore, in order to contribute to 1 sq. m area 18 g of nitrogen, you need to use 55 g of ammonium nitrate. In the same way, the dose of application of other mineral fertilizers is calculated. To do this, you only need to know the percentage of their active substance and how many grams of it are given per 1 sq. m.

221. WHAT FERTILIZERS ARE CALLED SIMPLE, MIXED, COMPLEX AND CONCENTRATED?

Mineral fertilizers containing only one nutrient are called simple. Mixed (combined) fertilizers are called, consisting of two or more nutrients that are not chemically related. Complex mineral fertilizers are a chemical compound of two batteries. The ratio of nutrients in complex fertilizers is not always favorable for fruit and berry plants. Potassium nitrate, for example, contains a lot of potassium (46%) and little nitrogen (18%). Therefore, when potassium nitrate is applied under fruit and berry plants, nitrogen fertilizer must be added to it. Concentrated fertilizers are those that contain more active ingredient (2 times or more) than ordinary fertilizers. Double superphosphate is a concentrated fertilizer.

222. WHAT AMOUNT OF SIMPLE FERTILIZER SHOULD BE ADDED TO COMPLEX FERTILIZER TO GET THE NECESSARY RATIO OF NUTRITION ELEMENTS?

In order to understand how the calculation is made when adding a simple fertilizer to a complex one to obtain the required ratio between the nutrients, consider the following example. It is necessary to introduce nitrogen and potassium under fruit-bearing apple trees in the amount of 18 g of each battery per 1 sq. km. m area. Potassium and ammonium nitrate will be used for fertilizer. Potassium nitrate contains 46% potassium and 13% nitrogen, and ammonium nitrate contains 33% nitrogen. First, we calculate how much potassium nitrate must be added to give 18 g of potassium. To do this, we multiply the potassium dose (18 g) by 100 and divide by the percentage composition of potassium in the fertilizer - - 18 × 100: 46 \u003d 39.13 or 39 g. Then we calculate how much nitrogen will be added from 39 g of potassium nitrate. 100 g of potassium nitrate contains 13 g of nitrogen, and 39 g - 5.07 g, that is, 13 g does not reach the required dose of nitrogen. These 13 g of nitrogen must be supplemented with ammonium nitrate.

To find out how much ammonium nitrate contains 13 g of nitrogen, multiply 13 g by 100 and divide by the percentage composition (concentration) of this fertilizer, i.e. by 33 - 13 × 100: 33 \u003d 39.18 or 39 g.

Thus, to contribute to 1 sq. m area of ​​18 g of nitrogen and potassium, you need to use 39 g of potassium nitrate and 39 g of ammonium nitrate. In the situation that it is necessary to fertilize the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200ba amateur garden measuring 1000 square meters. m dose of 18 g of nitrogen and potassium per 1 sq. m, you need to have 39 kg of potassium and the same amount of ammonium nitrate.

223. WHAT FERTILIZERS AND IN WHAT QUANTITY SHOULD BE APPLIED UNDER THE FRUIT-BEARING FRUIT TREES?

The soils of Bulgaria are extremely diverse in their chemical composition and content of available nutrients. Soil content individual elements nutrition is determined by chemical analysis, but this method is not available to most gardeners. At this stage, amateur gardeners can determine the nutrient requirements of fruit plants by their growth and fruiting in the previous year. If the length of the annual growth of fruit trees is less than 20 cm, and the yield per tree is less than 100-150 kg, it is necessary to fertilize the garden. The type and amount of fertilizer applied depend on the type of soil (Table 6) and the condition of the trees.

Average doses of fertilizers also depend on the water regime of the garden. In the presence of irrigation, higher doses are applied and more fruits are obtained.

When carrying out anti-aging pruning, the doses of fertilizers are increased in order to obtain an increase in the required strength.

Potassium nitrate contains nitrogen and potassium in its composition and, therefore, is both nitrogen and potassium fertilizer. On poor soils, increased, and on rich soils, reduced doses of fertilizers are applied. When manure and mineral fertilizers are applied in the same year, their doses are reduced by half. If there is no manure, a combined application of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash fertilizers is used.

224. HOW TO PREPARE LIQUID FEEDING FROM MULNEIL, HORSE MANURE OR POULTRY DOORS?

Liquid top dressing is prepared in a tub or barrel, which is half-filled with mullein, horse dung or bird droppings. Then water is added and the contents are mixed several times. The solution is left in the tub for about 1 month for fermentation. Before applying to the soil strong solution diluted with water at the rate of 5-8 liters of water 1 liter of solution. If the soil is moist, the liquid top dressing is made thicker by diluting 1 liter of solution in 3-4 liters of water. The prepared solution is poured over the soil under the tree, going beyond the projection of the crown by about 0.5 m. For each square. m of area should be made 2 kg of mullein, horse manure or bird droppings without water.

225. HOW MANY FRUITTINGS SHOULD BE APPLIED DURING ONE VEGETATIONAL PERIOD FOR FRUIT-BEARING FRUIT TREES?

The number of top dressings applied under fruit-bearing fruit trees depends on the supply of nutrients in the soil. When potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied in autumn, they are not applied as top dressings. In areas with insufficient natural soil moisture and lack of irrigation, vegetative top dressing should not be applied. If the leaves have a slightly intense green coloring, carry out 2-fertilization with nitrogen. The last top dressing, however, should be carried out no later than the end of June. Later nitrogen fertilization causes prolonged growth of fruit trees, which negatively affects their winter hardiness. When carrying out top dressing per 1 sq. m contribute 3-4 g of nitrogen (9-12 g of ammonium nitrate). On poor soils, the dose is increased to 5-6 g of the active substance per 1 sq. m.

226. WHAT FERTILIZERS ARE BEST SUITABLE FOR LIQUID FRUIT-BEARING FRUIT TREES?

For liquid dressings of fruit-bearing fruit trees, those mineral fertilizers that dissolve in water are suitable. All nitrogen fertilizers are water-soluble and therefore can be used for fertilizing in liquid state. Nevertheless, for this purpose, those in which nitrogen is in the nitrate form should be preferred. The most suitable are various saltpeters - the most common type of nitrogen fertilizer in Bulgaria. The most popular phosphate fertilizer is superphosphate. It dissolves relatively easily in water (preferably warm) and can be used for liquid top dressing of fruit-bearing fruit trees. Potash fertilizers are also soluble in water (faster in warm water) and are suitable for application in a liquid state. From organic fertilizers, slurry, fresh manure and bird droppings are suitable for top dressing.

227. HOW TO PREPARE A SOLUTION OF MINERAL FERTILIZERS FOR FRUIT TREES?

Mineral fertilizers are dissolved in a small amount water, after which a strong solution is diluted with water to obtain a concentration of 4-5%. It is necessary to prepare the solution in wooden tubs or tubs, since mineral fertilizers corrode iron.

228. WHAT ARE MICROFERTILIZERS?

Microfertilizers are fertilizers that contain one or more trace elements - molybdenum, manganese, zinc, cobalt and others.

229. WHAT MINERAL FERTILIZERS ARE CALLED MAGNESIUM?

Mineral fertilizers, the main nutrient of which is magnesium, are called magnesium fertilizers. In these fertilizers, magnesium is in the form of magnesium sulfate.

Dose of application per 1 sq. m 25-30 g. Magnesium is almost not washed out of the soil, which is why magnesium fertilizers can be applied at any time of the year. However, it is better to apply them in the fall under the main tillage. You can buy small amounts of magnesium sulfate from pharmacies or other places that sell a variety of chemicals.

230. IN WHAT SOILS IS THE MOST POSITIVE EFFECT OF MAGNESIUM SULFATE APPLICATION?

The most poor in magnesium are sandy soils, especially acidic ones. Soil acidity delays the entry of magnesium into fruit and berry plants, which is why even small reserves of this element in the soil cannot be used by plants.

The application of magnesium fertilizers is more effective on sandy soils than on clay-sandy ones.

231. IN WHICH CASES SHOULD YOU NOT APPLY MICROFERTILIZERS TO THE GARDEN SOIL?

Microfertilizers should not be applied to soils rich in trace elements. For example, chernozem soils contain a significant amount of boron, which is why they do not need to be given boron fertilizers.

If an amateur gardener fertilizes his garden every 1-2 years with ash, the application of microfertilizers becomes redundant. Manure contains almost all trace elements. Therefore, when increased doses of manure are introduced into the soil of the garden, microfertilizers should not be given either.

232. WHEN AND HOW DO BORON FERTILIZERS APPLY?

Boron is applied to the soil in the form of borax or boric acid. These fertilizers are applied in the spring for the first tillage. For 1 hectare give 15-20 kg of borax or 9-12 kg of boric acid. These amounts of borax and boric acid are small in volume, making it difficult to distribute them evenly over the surface of the site. Therefore, they are first mixed with fine river sand or crushed soil, after which they are scattered over the surface of the site.

233. ON WHICH SOILS IS BORON FERTILIZER APPLIED EFFECTIVELY?

Little boron is found in podzolic and light sandy soils. Therefore, the greatest effect of boron fertilizers can be expected on such soils. Soils that have received high doses of mineral fertilizers for a number of years respond well to the introduction of boron. Soils fertilized abundantly with manure, as a rule, do not respond to the introduction of boron.

Boric acid and borax can also be used for foliar feeding of fruit and berry plants. For this purpose, 10-30 g of borax or 6-20 g of boric acid are dissolved in a small amount. hot water, after which they add cold water up to 8-10 liters. The solution is thoroughly stirred and sprayed with plants. It is necessary to carry out two sprayings - - before flowering and at the beginning mass flowering.

234. WHEN AND HOW IS MANGANESE FERTILIZER APPLIED?

Manganese fertilizers are applied in autumn under the main tillage. Manganese slag is used. On chernozem soils, 150-200 kg of manganese slag is applied per 1 ha of the garden, and 50-100 kg on podzolic soils. Manganese can be given to fruit and berry plants and in the form of foliar dressings. To do this, the plants are sprayed with a solution of manganese sulfate at a concentration of 5-10 g per 10-12 liters of water. Spraying is carried out 2-3 times - before blooming flower buds, during mass flowering and during the period of intensive plant growth.

235. WHAT ARE SOILS DEPENDING ON THEIR ACIDITY?

Soil acidity is denoted by pH. When the soil reaction is neutral, the pH is 7. At a pH above 7, the soil reaction is alkaline, and at a pH below 7, it is acidic. If the pH is around 4, this means that the soil is very acidic. Fruit plants thrive best in soil pH between 5.5 and 6.5, but they can also be grown in soils with a pH of 5 to 7.5.

236. CAN AN AMATEUR GARDENER ITSELF DETERMINE THE ACIDITY OF THE SOIL?

The exact determination of soil acidity is carried out in the laboratory. However, the reaction of the soil solution can also be judged by some outward signs. For example, the formation of a whitish layer on the soil surface, consisting of various salts, indicates that the soil is acidic. If clover grows well in the garden, then the reaction of the soil solution is alkaline. The presence of horsetail and sorrel indicates that the soil is acidic.

Uchtekhprom stores sell special indicator paper (phenolphthalein and litmus paper), with which you can easily determine the reaction of the soil solution.

For practical purposes, this method is quite accurate.

237. WHAT IS THE HARMFUL INFLUENCE OF ACID SOILS ON THE GROWTH AND BEARING OF FRUIT AND BERRY PLANTS?

The increased acidity of the soil retards growth and interferes with the normal fruiting of fruit and berry plants. The reaction of the soil can also have an indirect effect on the development of fruit and berry crops. Usually acidic soils are overly moist. When such soils are kept in a black fallow state, they dry out with difficulty and form a crust on the surface. This prevents the penetration of air to the roots of fruit and berry plants, which adversely affects the course of biological processes in the soil and plant nutrition. The absorption of nutrients by fruit and berry plants on acidic soils is slow and most of batteries are converted into hard-to-reach forms. In such soils, there is also an accumulation of substances harmful to fruit and berry plants. The development of bacterial flora is slowed down, which makes the mineral nutrition of fruit and berry plants difficult.

238. WHY IS THE LIME OF CERTAIN SOILS CARRIED OUT?

Lime is applied only to those soils that have high acidity. Soils with a slightly acidic alkaline reaction should not be limed. Most fruit and berry plants grow well and bear fruit normally on slightly acidic soils, which is why it is not necessary to add lime to them. At a pH below 5.5, liming should be carried out.

239. WHEN TO APPLY LIME TO THE SOIL?

On soils with high acidity, lime must be applied for planting. If the acidity of the soil on the site has increased after the laying of the garden, liming can be carried out at any time, but it is better - just before the autumn main tillage.

240. WHAT LIME SHOULD BE USED FOR LIME OF GARDEN SOIL?

Most often used for liming slaked lime in powder form. In this form, it mixes well with the soil. If there is no slaked lime, you can use quicklime in the form of lumps. She is poured with water and left known time until complete decomposition.

In addition to powdered lime, lime plaster can also be used for soil application.

241. WHAT DOSES OF LIME SHOULD BE APPLIED TO THE GARDEN SOIL?

Doses of lime application depend on the acidity of the soil and its mechanical composition, on the quality of lime and the depth of its incorporation into the soil. On more acidic soils, increase the dose of lime.

At very high acidity (pH below 4), 5-6 t/ha of lime is applied on clay soils, and 3-4 t/ha on sandy soils; at high acidity (рН=4.1-4.5) on clay soils - 4-5 t/ha, on sandy soils - 2.5-3 t/ha; at medium acidity (рН=4.6-5.0) on clay soils - 3-4 t/ha, on sandy soils - 2-2.5 t/ha; with low acidity (pH = 5.0-5.5) on clay soils - 1.5-2 t / ha, and on sandy soils with such acidity, lime should not be applied.

242. HOW OFTEN SHOULD LIME BE APPLIED TO THE GARDEN SOIL?

When the correct calculation of the required amount of lime is carried out and the entire required amount is introduced into the soil, the reaction of the soil solution is normalized over a period of 10-12 years. After this period, the acidity of the soil should be determined and, if necessary, liming should be repeated. If lime is applied in small doses, then checking and re-liming is carried out more often - every 6-8 years.

The frequency of application of lime to the soil also depends on the doses of manure used. If the garden is often fertilized with high doses of manure, liming is carried out less often or not at all. More frequent determinations of soil acidity are necessary when only mineral fertilizers are applied.

243. CAN GYPSUM BE USED FOR LIMING?

Gypsum is calcium sulfate. When it is introduced into the soil, sulfur anion is released, which has an acidic reaction. Therefore, gypsum does not reduce the acidity of the soil and should not be used for liming.

244. IS IT HARMFUL TO APPLY A LARGE AMOUNT OF LIME TO THE GARDEN SOIL?

Excess lime in the soil causes an alkaline reaction in the soil solution. And it is known that fruit and berry plants grow and bear fruit best on slightly acidic and neutral soils. Therefore, in gardens with an excessive amount of lime in the soil, fruit and berry plants do not develop normally; their leaves become pale green, yellow and even white. In soils with an excess of lime, some nutrients are more difficult to absorb by plants, while others pass into forms inaccessible to plants.

245. TO WHAT DEPTH SHOULD LIME BE APPLIED TO THE GARDEN SOIL?

The bulk of the roots of fruit trees is located at a depth of 20-90 cm from the soil surface, and some roots penetrate even deeper. Lime should be embedded in the soil as deep as possible - up to 20 cm. It is better to divide the full dose of lime into three parts and apply one third every 2-3 months.

246. WHAT IS FLORAL FERTILIZATION OF FRUIT AND BERRY PLANTS?

Foliar top dressing of fruit and berry plants is a fertilizer using a nutrient solution through the leaves.

247. IN WHAT WAY IS THE FLORAL FERTILIZATION CARRIED OUT?

During foliar feeding, nutrients are introduced into fruit and berry plants by spraying their leaves with an aqueous solution of fertilizers. Spraying should be done early in the morning or in the evening. During the day, you can spray only in cloudy weather. Nutrient absorption is faster when the solution remains on the leaf surface for a long time. In sunny weather and low air humidity, the nutrient solution dries quickly and the plants cannot absorb the fertilizers dissolved in the water.

When fertilizing fruit and berry plants through the leaves, one must be very careful about establishing the concentration of the solution. Excessively concentrated solutions of some fertilizers cause leaf burns. Young leaves are especially sensitive to an increased concentration of solutions, therefore, when spraying fruit and berry plants at the beginning of the growing season, weaker solutions should be used.

Fertilizers that can be used for foliar feeding of fruit and berry plants, and the applied doses are presented in table 7.

Lower concentrations are used in the spring when the leaves on the plants are still young.

248. WHAT FEEDINGS ARE THE MOST EFFECTIVE?

Nutrients are more quickly absorbed by plants when fertilizers are given dissolved in water.

During the growing season, dry fertilizers can be applied only after heavy rainfall or when watering.

249. DO MINERAL FERTILIZERS AFFECT THE TASTE AND APPEARANCE OF FRUITS AND BERRIES?

With normal supply horticultural crops high and high-quality yields of fruits and berries are obtained with nutrients. In the absence or lack of any battery, the quantity and quality of products is reduced. With a lack of phosphorus and potassium, few sugars accumulate in fruits and berries. The introduction of boron not only improves the taste of fruits, but also prevents them from cracking. Magnesium has a beneficial effect on the accumulation of sugars and vitamin C in fruits and berries.

With a sharply reduced nitrogen supply, small and tasteless fruits are formed. If nitrogen is in excess, then the fruits have increased content water and few sugars; their coloration is weak.

Therefore, when fertilizing fruit and berry plants, all the necessary nutrients must be added.

For practical purposes, it is necessary to know how much of a given fertilizer can be substituted for an equivalent amount of another fertilizer in the same group. Table 8 provides calculations that can be used when fertilizing fruit and berry plants.

251. IS IT POSSIBLE TO STORE FERTILIZERS IN HEAPS IN THE IMMEDIATE PROXIMITY OF THE BUNKS OF FRUIT TREES?

The main part of the sucking roots of fruit trees is located under the outer parts of the crown and outside its outlines. Large tree roots are located directly near the trunk. There are almost no sucking roots on large roots, so they cannot absorb nutrients. Therefore, manure and mineral fertilizers should not be piled near the trunks of fruit trees. Fertilizers should be evenly distributed under the entire crown of the tree and about 0.5 m from the outside of its outline(Fig. 84). The introduction of a large amount of fresh manure and mineral fertilizers in the immediate vicinity of the trunk can lead to the death of the fruit tree.

252. WHY DON'T HAVE FRUIT TREES EVERY YEAR?

Abundant flowering and the setting of a large number of fruits depletes fruit trees. Their growth is significantly weakened, and this leads to the fact that fruit buds are either not laid at all, or very few of them are laid. Since the fruit tree primarily supplies the fruits with nutrients, they are often not enough to lay flower buds and there is a frequency of fruiting. The frequency of fruiting is increased due to insufficient fertilization and irrigation and irregular control of pests and garden diseases. The frequency of fruiting can be eliminated by thinning the ovaries and improving the care of fruit trees.

Fertilizing the soil is important to do correctly, because due to a number of gardeners' mistakes, unpleasant results can be obtained.

Incorrect fertilizer and their application can lead to prolonged growth of shoots, reduce winter hardiness, deteriorate fruit quality and reduce the period.

Also, if the soil is not properly fertilized, you can ruin the plants or get no result at all.

For rapid growth vegetables and other plants need nutrients that are contained in top dressing.

We will talk about what fertilizers exist, how and when to apply them.

Types of soil fertilizers

There are several of them:

• organic;
• nitrogen;
• minerals;
• phosphorus;
• potassium.

Phosphate fertilizers for soil

Are important elements in the life and growth of plants. They provide energy and are involved in the formation of DNA and RNA.

Phosphorus fertilizer is very convenient in that even with its excess, you will not spoil it. They will take as much phosphorus as they need.

Phosphorus deficiency in plants can lead to:

• underdevelopment of seeds;
• slow growth;
• coloring of plants in dark green and purple colors;
• changing the shape of plants;
• dark spots.

Phosphorus fertilizers for the soil are applied mainly in autumn, because during the winter period hard-to-digest fertilizers will be able to move into the soil-retaining complex and by summer they will begin to fully deliver nutrients to plants.

If you want to fertilize the ground in the spring, then use tuk. They contain fast acting ingredients.

Choose such phosphate fertilizers for the soil as:

• Superphosphate (suitable for any plants, especially suitable for tomatoes);
• Double superphosphate (suitable for trees and shrubs);
• Ammophos (for vegetables, lawn, trees and ornamental plants);
• Diammophos or ammonium hydrogen phosphate (potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers);
• Bone meal (processed bones of domestic animals, suitable for tub crops, potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes, also applicable for).

Phosphate fertilizers can also be made from herbs of wormwood, feather grass, hawthorn, mountain ash, thyme.

Organic fertilizers for the soil

Basically they include:

• manure;
• humus;
• bird droppings;
• deciduous land;
• sod land;
• peat.

Organic fertilizers are suitable for any soil and are considered the most natural.

Manure is the most easily accessible and inexpensive way to fertilize the soil.

It contains a number of nutrients that, when decomposed, turn into carbon dioxide.

Thus, clay soil will acquire friability, and sandy - viscous and wet, it turns out.

Fresh manure is brought in in the autumn season, and rotted manure in the spring.

Humus can be obtained by decomposing the leaves and roots of plants.

It is very popular to use it for seedlings, applying 50 kg per m2.

bird droppings rarely used, because, it is a highly concentrated fertilizer for the soil.

It must be diluted by adding 0.3 liters. bird droppings per ten liters of water.

Peat as a fertilizer, choose light riding, transitional and lowland.

Do not use it in its pure form, because it contains many acids. Peat should be used in.

You can fertilize the soil in spring or summer.

In the spring, it is applied when digging at 6 kg per sq.m. In summer, a layer of about half a meter and 20 cm of manure is poured, and 50 cm of peat is again covered on top. Cover and leave for a year.

sod land easy to use by DIY.

Pick up and collect fallen leaves by tamping them in wooden box. Then add water, moistening slightly. Add superphosphate in the amount of half a kilogram per 1 cubic meter.

Add 2 tablespoons of ash to the mixture and let it perspire. Good to use for vegetables in various.

Mineral fertilizers for soil

Usually used in conjunction with organics. With their help, you can grow a large crop that will exceed all your expectations.

It is better to use mixed mineral fertilizers. Mainly:

• Ammonium nitrate;
• Urea (carbamide);
• blue vitriol;
• Phosphate flour;
• Microfertilizers;
• Nitrophoska.

Mineral fertilizers can be used in spring and summer when cultivating the land and sowing seeds. Only phosphorite flour is brought in in the fall so that it has time to saturate the soil.

Potash fertilizers for soil

These include:

• Potassium sulfate (20 grams per meter for watering, 10 grams for dry dressing);
• Potassium chloride (for greenhouse soil in the autumn season 5 grams per meter);
• ash (100 grams per square meter, for 2 years);
• Nitrophoska (20 grams per 10 liters for irrigation and 50 grams for dry top dressing).

Nitrogen fertilizers for soil

These include:

• Ammonium nitrate (note that the soil may acidify);
• Urea (15 grams per 10 liters. running water, use every 12 days);
• Potassium nitrate (20 grams per square meter).

How to properly fertilize the soil?

If you have clay soil, you should add river sand to it and vice versa, so the nutrients are not washed out by rains.

Observe crop rotation and do not plant one crop for two years in a row for one.

As a general rule, start fertilizing the soil in the fall. Remove all plant debris and treat the land from harmful insects.

For root crops, fertilize the soil with superphosphate by adding organic fertilizers.

Do not forget about liming the soil. By doing this once every 4 years, you will get a good harvest.

After lime is applied, plants such as:

• radish;
• cabbage;
• radish;
• turnip.

Do not add organic matter with lime. It only reduces efficiency.

In this case, apply fertilizer at planting.

If you are going to grow dill, lettuce, zucchini, cucumbers and squash, apply manure during spring digging.

Nitrogenous elements can be added to manure.

By June, it will be important to feed the garden with potash fertilizers. This will help rid them of diseases and accelerate growth.

Potato fertilizer

Fertilizing the soil for potatoes is the most common question.

It is worth remembering that watering and hilling does not guarantee you a good potato harvest. Fertilizers are indispensable.

For potatoes, it is better to choose such fertilizers:

• ash (combine ash with nitrogen fertilizers and apply in the spring or autumn season);
• nitrogen (easily washed out, therefore they are applied every year);
• phosphoric (stir with manure and applied every 2 years);
• manure (fertilize in the amount in which the potato crop was harvested, i.e. for 50 kg of crop, take 50 kg of manure).

Apply organic matter when planting potatoes or when digging for the winter. Mineral fertilizers - after germination and during flowering.

To fertilize potatoes with organic elements, make a hole and lay 100 grams of stale manure, sprinkled with earth. You can add 10 grams of ash and 15 grams of bird droppings on top. Put the potatoes on top and dig in the hole.

When shoots appear, dilute the manure with water (10:1) mixed with nitrogen and phosphorus components (10:8). Pour the sprouts with a solution and wait for the harvest.

During flowering, use the same method, only without manure.

strawberry fertilizer

Applying mineral fertilizers to fertilize the soil for strawberries should be done carefully, it is better to use the instructions on the package.

Strawberries are a very delicate plant, so you should not experiment with it.

Manure and humus suitable option for fertilizing strawberries. He will not only feed beneficial substances but also protect and various diseases.

For strawberries to have a bright red color, big sizes and sweet taste, then use chicken manure.

The main thing is not to overdo it, because you can ruin the crop.

Add ten liters of water to 1 liter of chicken manure and leave for three days. Fertilize strawberry bushes need half a liter (per 1 bush).

There are also folk ways fertilizer soil for strawberries. These include dairy products.

Mix a few tablespoons of ash with humus, manure and a fermented milk product.

Strawberries love yeasty soil, so bread is a great top dressing option.

Take dry bread and soak until fermented in water (about 10 days). Dilute the solution with water 1 to 10.

Mono also use nettle infusion. Take a nettle and fill it with rainwater, crushing it with a load.

Stir the infusion every 2 days. Dilute 1 to 20 with water and apply before foliar feeding.

Do the first soil fertilizers when digging for the winter. The second - after picking berries.

Do not fertilize strawberries during fruiting.

The third fertilization of the soil for strawberries is done in September. For this, ash and mullein are used (for 1 bucket of mullein, half a glass of ash).

When transplanting, fertilize the new soil with 8 kg. organic fertilizer and 30 gr. mineral fertilizer!

Quite often, gardeners are faced with such a concept as "liming the soil." What it is and why it is necessary, we will consider in our article.

The use of lime fertilizers on acidic soils will improve the nutrient medium for plants with such elements as:

• nitrogen;
• magnesium;
• calcium;
• phosphorus and others.

Thanks to them, the rhizomes become powerful, due to which all the nutrients contained in the soil and fertilizers are absorbed. By itself, liming does not occur, so it is necessary make some effort and meet certain conditions.

Their use will increase the fertility of the land.

Why are acidic soils unfavorable for plants?

The acidity of the soil is very harmful plant development, it inhibits and slows down its growth. Of course, there are plants for which such conditions are acceptable, but there are also those for which this is simply death.

• Currant develops in slightly acidic or neutral, that is, acid-free soils.
• Cranberries thrive in a highly acidic environment.
• The bulk of garden plants develops well in moderately acidic soils.

It should also be taken into account that acidic soils not only directly harm plants, but also indirectly. The drying of such soil in the spring takes much longer, and in the summer it dries up a lot and becomes hard, like a crust. Nutrients in it are poorly absorbed by plants, and fertilizers applied are not absorbed at all. Also happening accumulation of substances which are very harmful to plants. Bacteria in acidic soils develop very poorly.

Soil acidity has a pH value. Neutral soil - has a pH value of -7. If the number is below 7, it means that the soil is acidic, if it is higher, then it is alkaline. When the indicator has a pH value of 4, this means that the soil is acidic.

Is it possible to independently determine the acidity of the soil?

Determine the acidity of the soil possible in several ways:

Should all soils be limed and when is the best time to do so?

To reduce soil acidity add lime to it. But not all soils have high acidity, there are those where it is not at all, so they should not be limed at all. Only those soils where there is excess acidity are subject to liming.

It is best to add lime to the soil during site preparation or when laying a garden. If you are going to grow strawberries, then planting the plant should be done 2 years after liming or lime should be applied after the plant takes root and gets stronger, but not earlier than 2 months after planting. You can lime the soil in a plot with fruit and berry plantations at any time. Lime is applied in autumn and spring during the digging of the site.

How to apply lime to the soil?

The lime added should mix well with soil, so it should be used in powder form. Quicklime cannot be used, since it is in a lumpy state and, using it in this form, it is possible to oversaturate the soil with lime, which is highly undesirable. It is necessary to convert it into slaked, this will require 4 buckets of water per 100 kg of lime. After the water has been absorbed, the lime will take on a powdery form and can be used to fertilize the earth.

Liming

Sprinkle the area evenly and observing the dosage of the substance. For clayey and loamy soils, from 5 to 14 kg of lime is used for a plot of 10 m 2 (the duration of the fertilizer is 12–15 years). For sandy and sandy loamy soils, 1–1.5 kg of lime is enough for a plot of the same size, this fertilizer is enough for 2 years. Do not exceed the dosage, this can lead to the fact that the soil becomes alkaline and the amount of molybdenum increases, which is harmful to plants in excess.

To reduce the acidity of the soil other substances can be used:

1. On sandy soil, where the magnesium content is very low, ordinary limestone or dolomitic limestone can be used. These substances are well used in areas where they grow leguminous plants and potatoes.
2. Chalk acts more effectively than limestone, since it contains calcium carbonate.
3. On light soils, you can use "marl", which contains at least 50% calcium carbonate.
4. Hydrated lime is very effective on heavy soils, as it has fast reactions. It is not recommended for sandy soils.
5. Limestone tuff has the same effect as limestone.
6. You can also use lake lime (gaskettle), which contains 60% calcium carbonate.

Sometimes liming is carried out using industrial waste: cement dust, oil shale ash, carbide lime and others. But before using such compounds, you should check them for the presence of toxins in them, heavy metals and carcinogens.

Very positive application on acidic soils of ash from woody plants. It has a high content of calcium (about 40%), as well as the presence of potassium, phosphorus and a large number of trace elements.

Land reclamation should be carried out before autumn plowing or digging of the land. In the spring, such work is also possible before preparing the site for planting, after which you can plant and sow vegetables.

Autumn recharge land plot is considered an important component of getting a good harvest next season. That is why it is extremely important to understand which fertilizers should be used in this case. This will be discussed further.

Autumn is the best time to properly fertilize the soil in the country. The soil rests, and microorganisms have a chance to process nutrients more efficiently. This gives the gardener the opportunity prepare land in advance to future plantings, freeing up time in the spring for more important things.

In autumn, the soil is fed in the beds various fertilizers and their complexes. But sometimes it's just a waste of your energy. After all, certain trace elements decay and are lost during wintering. To avoid the irrational use of fertilizers, it is recommended to know what exactly is used in the fall and what in the spring.

It is worth fertilizing the soil not only under cultivated plants in the garden, but also under fruit trees and bushes.

What essential substances can be used in the fall

Before the arrival of a harsh winter, the soil needs additional nutrition. In doing so, you can do various complex top dressing. It all depends on the raw materials used and the plant itself.

• humus or compost that improves soil structure;
• phosphorus and potassium complexes simultaneously with organics are poured into the pre-stem circle;
• ready-made store dressings, for example, "Orchard", "Universal" and "Autumn";
• manure, which must be applied in autumn. Moreover, it is strictly forbidden to use fresh manure. It should "reach" for at least a few years. Otherwise, the root system of the tree can be damaged.

For potatoes the best option will:

• straw manure, which, according to experts, can almost double the yield;
• green manure;
• nitroammophoska, nitrofoska and ammophos.

• ash as a natural mineral complex;
• chicken manure, which is applied as a solution in a ratio of 1:15. Necessarily after harvesting in the process of digging;
• dolomite flour, which can significantly reduce the acidity of the soil. This fertilizer is used only when necessary. There are also plants that like acidic soil.

Since nutrient complexes change for various country and garden plants, it is best from autumn determine the landing site individual varieties. If this is not possible, you need to use universal compositions.

Mineral fertilizers

Most often, plants receive nutrients in solutions. Since in this case digestibility is much better. To date, there are a huge number of ready-made mineral complexes, for example, for a lawn, fruit trees and bushes.

It is important to pay attention to the mark "for autumn". The peculiarity of such compositions is that they must contain minimum amount of nitrogen. After all, he provokes active growth and may not allow the plant to prepare for wintering.

Mineral fertilizers for autumn application must necessarily contain trace elements such as phosphorus, potassium and calcium. They will allow plants to prepare for lower temperatures and, in general, for harsh wintering conditions.

Proper use of organics

Organic fertilizers for autumn use include:

• horse dung, characterized by the density of the consistency. This allows you to keep nitrogen in the soil enough long time. During the winter, the manure begins to soften, and only by spring the nutrients will enter the soil. For each square meter of land, it is recommended to apply about 3 kg of fertilizer. Moreover, in the autumn period it can be used fresh. Whereas in the spring it is strictly prohibited;
• mullein considered the most popular fertilizer among gardeners. It allows you to saturate the soil with nutrients. And in the fall, you can even bring in raw mullein. After all, excess ammonia will also come down with melt water. For each square meter of land, there are about 5-6 kg. But most experts advise using mullein in the spring, since almost a quarter of the nutrients are lost during the winter. But first it must be composted at the end of summer;
• bird droppings considered one of the most concentrated fertilizers. Therefore, it is more difficult to use it in summer and spring. It is necessary to dilute and carefully water in the form of a solution, otherwise you can damage the foliage and the root of the plants. This is the perfect food for strawberries. In autumn, the litter can be distributed undiluted for digging.

Synthetic fertilizers

There are a huge number of synthetic fertilizers that can be used to replenish the soil in the fall.

Namely:

• phosphorus-based fertilizers presented in the form are applied without fail in the autumn. Since these substances are difficult to dissolve, they need time to dissolve and saturate the soil. For every square meter of land, there are 50 g of superphosphate;
• phosphate rock most often applied simultaneously with manure, since it allows you to create optimal conditions for the transition of phosphorus into the nutrient complex of the soil. But at the same time, it is important to understand that calcium, which is part of the fertilizer, is not “liked” by all plants. The advantages are worth mentioning natural origin composition. This is not chemistry, but an absolutely safe component;
• refers to nitrogen compounds. But with the difference that it can be used in the fall. Since its amide form allows you to retain nutrients in the soil until spring. It is important to carry it out correct application according to instructions

Folk remedies

Can be used as a folk fertilizer husk and cleaning. This is a harmless environmentally friendly waste that will nourish the soil with useful microelements. Potato peelings should be prepared in advance. They are poured with very hot water and infused for several days. After filtering, it is recommended to water the plants under the root.

Such folk fertilizers best used in spring time. For only planted crops every 10 days during the growing season.

How to fertilize the soil for digging

The most difficult thing is if it is necessary to fertilize clay and subclay soil. Since in winter the site becomes even denser and it is completely difficult for any plant to grow on it.

Such soil is dug up without fail from autumn, at the same time introducing nutrients.

These include:

• about 3 kg is needed for each square meter of land manure. Moreover, the frequency of use is not more than once every four years. After digging, the fertilizer is evenly distributed around the plant. But it is important to ensure that the manure does not reach the roots. They may die;
• grass cut based on grass and weeds, it is laid out in a furrow to a depth of not more than 0.2 m, and then sprinkled with soil. If desired, you can make a couple of such layers, for example, to a depth of 0.1 m from the surface;
• fertilizers with phosphorus and potassium in the ratio of 50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium salt per square meter;
• optimal usage time green manure- autumn. Wait until they grow 0.1 m, and you can dig them along with the soil.

There is a huge amount of fertilizer that is recommended to use in the fall. They can be combined, used alternately. It all depends on the set of nutrients and their compatibility. We have already talked about this, we hope that this information will be useful to you.