Caring for remontant raspberries to achieve a good harvest. Repair raspberries: cultivation and care, pruning, top dressing

Remontant raspberries bear fruit not only on two-year-old, but also on one-year-old shoots. To grow this species, you need to take into account some features of the plant and properly care for it.

There are a huge number of varieties of remontant raspberries, each of them has its own character traits and benefits. Some varieties are more resistant to disease, others tolerate frost well and thrive in difficult conditions. weather conditions, others are distinguished by a long period of fruiting.

One of the main characteristics by which varieties differ is the ripening time of the fruit. There are three varieties of remontant raspberries: early, mid-season and late varieties.

early ripe

The first berries appear in July, the fruiting period continues until mid-August. Such raspberry varieties feel good in the southern regions, where summer comes earlier.

The most popular and fruitful early ripe varieties:

• Heracles. This remontant raspberry variety is different high yield, large fruits (average weight one berry 8 - 10 grams) and increased resistance to spider mites and fungus. Able to bear fruit until frost.

• Bryansk Divo is a raspberry variety with large and dense berries. The first harvest can be obtained at the end of July. The yield of the variety is high (from one bush you can get up to 3.5 kg of berries), but it is very demanding on the composition of the soil.

• Eurasia - the berries of this variety are slightly smaller than those of the previous two. But they have their own peculiarity - after ripening, ripe fruits can safely hang on a bush for up to seven days, without any loss of taste and quality properties.

When choosing early varieties you need to take into account the time of onset of heat and the average number of sunny days per season.

Mid-season

Varieties that are great for growing in central Russia. The first harvest can be harvested in early August, the plants bear fruit until the very cold. Mid-season varieties enjoy well-deserved popularity, it is they who have been bred the most. Here are a few representatives of mid-season remontant raspberries:

• Atlant is a raspberry variety with large, sweet berries that tolerate transportation well. Atlant grows well in a variety of climatic conditions.

• Orange miracle. It bears fruits of bright orange color, hence the name. The length of the berry reaches 3.5 cm, and the weight is 8 grams.

Mid-season varieties are the most productive, they have the longest fruiting period. They require constant monitoring and regular care so that the crop is the same throughout the entire fruiting period and does not deteriorate by the end of the term.

late ripening

Such varieties are bred somewhat less than early and mid-season. However, for some regions, late varieties are optimal.

Two representatives of late-ripening remontant varieties:

• Morning dew is a frost-resistant bush with large yellow fruits.

• Heritage - one of the latest varieties, bears fruit from late August until frost. It has increased resistance to cold and disease.

Do not chase the most fruitful varieties of raspberries. It is more correct to pay attention to which varieties are better adapted to specific climatic conditions.

The right choice of planting material

Among the variety of remontant raspberry varieties, it is easy to get lost. For the first planting, it is best to choose mid-season and late varieties - they will have time to take root and give a good harvest in the first season.

Not worth buying planting material from unverified sellers, it is better to contact nurseries or more experienced gardeners. There are many cases when a purchased raspberry turned out to be sick, weak and did not match the characteristics of its variety.

Seedlings should have a well-developed root system, and above-ground part in length should not exceed 25 cm.

Soil and site requirements

Remontant raspberries grow best in sunny areas protected from the wind. In winter, raspberries must be protected from freezing - covered with snow or, in its absence, with some kind of protective material. Crowding of plants should not be allowed, otherwise the variety may degenerate.

The soil must be prepared before planting. Depending on the composition of the soil, suitable fertilizers are selected. Remontant raspberries do not tolerate strong soil moisture, it may begin to rot the roots. Therefore, in places with high humidity, it is necessary to equip the removal of excess water and make sure that it does not stagnate.

In trenches or pits (depending on the chosen method of planting), it is necessary to add humus mixed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. This is a mandatory composition, all other additives vary.

An obligatory part of preparing the soil for planting remontant raspberries is the removal of all weeds, in particular wheatgrass and nettles. These two plants thrive in raspberries and can even suppress plant development.

Planting dates in spring and autumn

Plant repair raspberries can be in spring or autumn. The landing period in autumn is longer, from the end of September to the beginning of November. Plants planted in autumn take root much better. The only danger that threatens seedlings is freezing, but this problem is easily solved. The site is covered with snow or some kind of protective material.

Spring planting eliminates the threat of freezing of young shoots. You can start planting remontant raspberries in spring from the end of February in the south of the country and until April in the northern regions. However, spring planting also brings certain difficulties: only two or three weeks to plant the entire raspberry.

It takes time for seedlings to begin to grow intensively, so active fruiting is shifted to a later period.

Caring for remontant raspberries

Raspberry remontant varieties require regular care. In order for the harvest to be good, the plants need to be fed periodically. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil, prevent raspberries from burning out in the sun, control the level of soil moisture and treat pests in a timely manner. All these measures are aimed at ensuring that the raspberry tree develops and actively bears fruit.

If you don't practice remontant raspberry, it completely loses all its advantages and degenerates. It takes a little effort for the plant to reach its full potential.

Bush formation

In order for the bush to develop better, it must be cut periodically. If this is not done, the plant will gradually weaken and grow strongly to the detriment of the fruits.

Pruning for a single crop subsequently involves the removal of all shoots and the entire aerial part before wintering. Without this procedure, all kinds of pests and pathogens will perfectly overwinter on the remaining stems. In order not to give them a single chance, the dried raspberries need to be cut off at the root, collect all the fallen branches and burn it all away from the site.

Possible and not so radical way pruning. In autumn, only old shoots and weak shoots are removed. In young shoots, the top is cut off, which has already borne fruit. In order for the raspberry to endure the winter well, it must be covered and prepared for it. In spring, all frozen and dried branches are removed, and the plant is treated for pests and diseases. This method of pruning allows you to get two full-fledged crops.

Watering and fertilizing

In order for the bushes to develop well and actively bear fruit, the plant must be regularly watered and fed. Raspberries are very fond of moisture, but do not tolerate overflows and stagnant water. Therefore, the required level of humidity must be given Special attention.

For most regions, natural watering is not enough, so you need to take additional measures. The perfect way watering raspberries - drip irrigation. Such watering maintains a given level of humidity and does not allow sudden changes in soil moisture.

If the ability to install drip system no, another way comes to the rescue - furrow irrigation. A small groove 10–15 cm deep is dug next to the raspberries, and water is supplied into it with a hose or watering can.

To reduce the number of waterings and prevent the soil from drying out, the ground in the raspberries must be mulched. As mulch, you can use hay, sawdust and other organic matter.

Mulch soil not only retains moisture, but also perfectly suppresses the growth of weeds, and subsequently also fertilizes the soil.

Top dressing dates

Without regular fertilizing and fertilizing, you will not be able to get a good harvest. Remontant raspberry responds well to both organic and mineral fertilizers.

Gardeners propose to carry out five main top dressings in different time of the year:

1. Introduction of humus in early spring immediately after the end of frost.
2. Nitrogen top dressing at the beginning of the growing season. The first feeding of raspberries is the most important, the growth and formation of the shrub depends on it.
3. Top dressing with a complex mineral fertilizers in the middle of the growing season. It is carried out during flowering and the beginning of fruit formation.
4. Top dressing with a phosphorus-potassium mixture at the end of the growing season. Necessary for successful budding in the future and preparation for winter.
5. Application of organic fertilizers before the onset of winter.

Feeding time table different regions

Subject to all deadlines and applying a sufficient amount of fertilizer, the plants will develop well and bring an excellent harvest.

Diseases and pests

In remontant raspberries, like others berry crops, there are many enemies. Unlike regular raspberries, remontant varieties more resistant to diseases and pests.

Among the most common diseases are the following:

1. Drying of shoots and roots. It is solved by regular watering and fertilizing.
2. Rust on leaves. This disease is caused by a fungus, the shoots affected by it must be immediately cut off and completely destroyed. It cannot be treated, so it is necessary to regularly inspect the leaves and stop the spread of the fungus on initial stage.
3. powdery mildew. One more fungal disease, which occurs under conditions high humidity. It can be treated with antifungal drugs, the main thing is timely treatment.
4. Leaf curl due to lack of potassium. Remontant raspberries need potassium-phosphorus fertilizers for proper growth and development.

All of these diseases can be prevented by proper care and timely inspection of the plant.

To the most dangerous pests that threaten remontant raspberries include:

1. Spider mite. It is highly contagious, affecting not only raspberries, but also other plants. Likes dry and hot air. Dies after treatment with colloidal sulfur or Karbofos; you need to process every two weeks and the entire garden as a whole.
2. Raspberry beetle - eats raspberry buds. You will have to deal with this pest manually - to collect and remove beetles from the plant. For prevention, you can treat raspberries with Condifor.
3. Leaf aphids - not only feed on leaf sap, but also carry many fungal diseases. To combat aphids, treatment with Karbofos is carried out during the growing season.
4. Gall midges are a whole family of insects that lay their eggs in cracks in the bark. Because of this, the shoots die off. Gall midges overwinter in the soil, so in the spring you need to dig it up and treat it with Aktellik.

In autumn, remove not only branches from the site, but also fallen leaves - it is in it that most pests and disease vectors overwinter. It is best to burn it, and away from the site.

Preparing for winter

In order for the bushes to develop well and actively bear fruit after wintering, they need to be properly prepared for it. All work must be completed before the onset of cold weather.

Preparation for winter begins with tillage. You need to add phosphorus to it potash fertilizers, process from pests (if necessary). If the autumn is dry, you need to additionally water the raspberries. A week before the expected frost, make the last watering so that the roots do not dry out over the winter, and mulch the soil. Do not lay out a large layer of mulch, 5 cm is enough.

Raspberry pruning is done depending on the plans for the future harvest. You can cut off all the branches at the root, or you can remove only the old shoots and tops that had berries. If annual shoots remain to winter, they need to be tied up.

Repair raspberries need to be covered for the winter, for these purposes you can use different materials: normal snow (if there is enough), spruce branches or special nonwovens that let air through.

If the preparation for winter has been carried out correctly, the next season will have more berries, and they will become larger and sweeter.

When growing raspberries, you should not relax after harvest. Compliance with the rules for caring for raspberries in the fall, preparing for winter will ensure excellent harvests in the following seasons. Main types autumn work in raspberries: weeding, pruning, fertilizing, watering, preparing for winter.

The nuances of the autumn application of fertilizers

As soon as the crop is harvested, it is necessary to take care of feeding the plants. Thanks to organic and inorganic fertilizers, the root system accumulates a supply of nutrients. What is very necessary for the full development of the bushes next season.

It is not recommended to use compositions with a high nitrogen content. Since the use of nitrogen stimulates the growth of new branches and green mass. Fresh shoots usually do not have time to get stronger before the first frost, which can lead to the death of the entire bush.

Phosphorus and potassium will help plants to safely overwinter. Fertilizing in September will allow the plants to still have time to assimilate the nutrients before frost. Top dressing will also contribute to the active formation of the ovary next season.

• Potassium additionally increases the frost resistance of plants. Potassium is introduced to a depth of up to 7 cm (the dose for an individual bush is 40 g).
• Superphosphate is recommended to be applied to a depth of at least 5-7 cm at the rate of 50-60 g for each bush.

Oktyabrina Ganichkina advises as autumn feeding use the Agricola complex mineral mixture (for berry crops). In a ten-liter bucket of water, 50 g of the mixture is diluted. This amount is enough to feed 12-15 bushes.

Rules for pruning bushes

Stripping raspberries from old, dry or broken branches is an indispensable step in caring for raspberries in the fall. Wherein experienced gardeners It is recommended to remove two-year-old shoots. Since for the third season it is still possible to harvest from these branches, but the berries will already be small, few in number.

Such shoots will weaken the bush, so it is advisable to cut them out in the fall.

It is not difficult to distinguish two-year-olds among the bush - they are distinguished by dark, cracked bark.

It is also better to get rid of green shoots during sanitary pruning, since small shoots may not survive severe frosts. Any cuts are made at ground level - to exclude the possibility of wintering and breeding in pest stumps.

More information about in pictures and diagrams

When caring for remontant raspberries, pruning dates can be postponed to a later time. Since the bushes are able to bear fruit even in late autumn.

Features of preparing raspberries for winter

Naturally, raspberries of any variety (even frost-resistant ones) more favorably endure the winter period under snow cover. Experienced gardeners warn that in severe frosts, flower buds that are not protected by shelter can freeze out.

After the measures taken to care for raspberries in the fall, preparation for winter is the next step. Before covering work should:

• the leaves preserved on the branches are carefully cut;
• fallen leaves are carefully raked out and burned.

A common technique for preparing bushes for wintering is to bend the raspberry stems to the ground and carefully fix the bush in this position.

Some summer residents do not particularly bother with the procedure - they simply tilt the bush to the ground and press down the stems with boards and slate. This method cannot be called universal, since the branches are fixed unreliably.

It is important not to miss the moment of the onset of frost. As long as the branches are flexible, this procedure is not difficult to do. However, if the moment is missed, then the branches from frost can break.

If it is not possible to specifically cover the raspberries with something, it is recommended to at least fix the bushes at a low height. To do this, a wire or rope is pulled near the rows of raspberries, at a distance of 20-30 cm from the ground, and raspberry stems are tied to them.

In this position, the branches will be covered with snow and calmly overwinter.

If there is usually little snow in winter or frequent strong winds, it is necessary to build barriers for snow. It can be sheets of polycarbonate, slate, plywood. Some summer residents cover the soil with straw, mowed grass. The mulch will protect the raspberry root system.

A useful video about preparing raspberries for winter from the Garden Head channel:

The nuances of caring for different varieties

Varietal diversity allows you to choose raspberries to taste, according to simple rules care. It is the correct care of plants that allows you to collect bulk crops of berries.

The best option for breeding raspberries is planting several varieties. Then you can not worry about the unsuccessful summer season.

yellow raspberry

This variety belongs to remontant species. The variety is characterized by long fruiting, disease resistance. The plant develops well on sandy loamy lands. Features of the variety: root growth does not grow, low frost resistance, does not need special care, has a strong root system.

The yield of raspberries is determined by the power of the bush in the first years of life. Therefore, sufficient availability of nitrogen is very important for the plant. Fertilization is divided into two periods: spring and autumn. The best nitrogen fertilizer is urea (50 g is diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water, a liter of solution is poured under each bush).

In autumn, plants are watered almost before frost. Since moist soil increases the winter hardiness of raspberries.

black raspberry

perennial shrub can be attributed to an exotic variety - not every site will meet this original look. Powerful stems with sharp thorns grow 2-3 meters long. For feeding plants, both organic and non-organic matter are used. organic fertilizers.

The easiest way to use complex formulations: diluted in water bird droppings at the rate of 1:17, 50 g of superphosphate is added to a bucket of solution. It is desirable to apply fertilizer simultaneously with watering or before it.

Depending on the climate, the bushes are left to winter in the open or covered.

• In the southern regions, you can leave the stems on the trellis, it is only recommended to fix the bush well.
• In regions with severe winters, the bushes are bent to the ground, but not laid on the ground. Plants are covered with special material.

tree raspberry

These varieties belong to the standard and are considered the most fertile. For breeding, remontant varieties are chosen (berries ripen throughout the season, branches are cut in the fall after harvest) and perennial (does not need pruning).

In autumn, the soil in the raspberries is enriched with peat and compost. Phosphorus and potassium additives help the plant form a powerful root system. After top dressing, it is recommended to mulch the soil (straw, onion husks, peat).

Raspberries prefer moderate watering, so after harvesting, it is enough to pour about half a bucket of water under each bush once a week.

After the foliage has fallen, the bushes are prepared for wintering: the stems are tilted to the ground and fixed. To secure the bush, the branches are tied to trellises or some kind of load is used. When growing tree-like raspberries in regions with a mild climate, you can not specifically cover it - it is enough to firmly fix the plant on the trellis.

Caring for remontant raspberries in the fall, preparing for winter

The difference between remontant raspberry varieties from ordinary varieties is in particular fruiting. Berries on a bush are formed on annual and biennial shoots. Harvest on the branches of the current year ripens in August - September.

It turns out that the gardener has the opportunity to get two crops from one raspberry bush per season: in July on last year's branches, in September on the shoots of the current year.

Giving a double crop, the bush is under serious stress and requires careful care. In the autumn, after harvesting, it is necessary to prune, feed and prepare the plant for winter.

So that the results of the season do not disappoint, it is important to follow the rules for caring for remontant raspberries in the fall, preparing them for winter:

• since the root system is located superficially, it is not recommended to diligently weed or dig up the beds in the fall. Mulching the soil will help prevent the active growth of weeds;
• the use of mineral fertilizers (superphosphate, potassium sulfate). after the autumn berry picking will become a pledge good harvest next year;
• Proper pruning has a positive effect on future crops. The main pruning of raspberries is carried out in October-November. Thanks to this, you can get rid of pests and increase fertility next year;
• since abundant watering is necessary only during the fruiting period, in the fall the shrub is watered on the eve of the first autumn frosts.

Autumn top dressing of remontant raspberries

In autumn, raspberries need nutrients to prepare the root system for winter and lay new fruit buds on the shoots. This plant will help mineral compositions with a predominance of potassium and phosphorus.

Nitrogen fertilizers are not applied in the fall.

Mineral fertilizers

On sandy and poor soils, 1 tbsp is applied to each raspberry bush. a spoonful of superphosphate and potassium salt. On humus-rich soils, it is enough to apply half the dose. Fertilizers are mixed and evenly distributed over the surface of the earth, slightly loosening the soil.

If the weather is dry, the plants should be watered, spending 20-30 liters of water on each bush.

Ash

The product from the burning of wood and grass is the richest source of potassium, phosphorus and other elements important for the life of the plant. Ashes are applied in the amount of 1 full glass per bush, scattering the substance over the surface of the earth.

It is forbidden to use ashes from the combustion of polyethylene, printed materials, plastic! It contains carcinogens - substances hazardous to health.

Humus

Before the onset of winter, it is useful to mulch raspberries with humus. This is not only additional protection of the plant roots from frost, but also top dressing of the crop. Use manure that has lain in heaps for at least 3 years or humus from plant residues(compost).

The consumption rate of humus is a bucket per bush.

siderates

An interesting option for autumn feeding of raspberries is the cultivation of green manure crops in the aisles:

• lupine,
• phacelia,
• comfrey,
• wiki.

A continuous grass cover protects the soil from overheating and retains moisture in depth.

When the rapidly growing green mass reaches a height of 20 cm, it is embedded in the soil with a hoe or flat cutter. Greens, gradually rotting, nourishes the roots of raspberries and serves extra cover from the cold.

Pruning remontant raspberries

There are two ways to prune a plant. In the first case, all raspberry shoots are cut under the root, without exception. The following year, the crop is harvested from annual branches at the end of summer. The advantage of this method is the lack of work on tying and sheltering shoots for the winter and preventing the development of diseases and pests - pathogens and harmful insects simply have nowhere to winter.

The disadvantage of this pruning option is the single fruiting of the raspberry bush only at the end of summer.

The second way to form a raspberry bush is to leave two-year-old branches on the plant. Usually, they keep no more than 5 strong shoots, to which next year 5-6 more branches from young shoots will join. Thus, the gardener will receive a double harvest.

It is necessary to strictly follow the schedule of fertilizing and watering raspberries so that the plant does not weaken.

Shelter of repair raspberries for the winter

On the shoots left in the winter, shorten the top by 20 cm, sniff the leaves if they have not flown around themselves.

• The shoots are tied in a bundle and bent to the ground, fastened with twine, tied to pegs.
• From above, raspberries are thrown with spruce branches or covered with lutrasil.
• In winter, they additionally throw snow on the bushes.

So that the shoots do not rot from the spring melt water, pieces of boards or pieces of slate are placed under them.

The procedure is carried out when the air temperature during the day already drops below 0.

In the video below you will find information about caring for remontant raspberries in the fall, preparing for winter.

Autumn pest control

The key to a rich harvest next season is the processing of raspberries from pests and diseases. After harvesting, it is recommended to carefully weed the area, loosen the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm. These measures will help get rid of pests that have survived in the foliage and will not allow the larvae to overwinter in the soil.

The most common harmful insects include: raspberry beetle, flower beetle, spider mite, stem fly.

raspberry beetle

It can significantly reduce the yield of berries or even lead to the death of the plant. Insects eat buds, fruits. Berries are poorly formed, grow deformed, wither and rot.

Beetles/larvae overwinter in upper layers soil (at a depth of up to 15-20 cm.

spider mite

Most often lives on the wrong side of the leaves. Feeding on the juice of plants and multiplying, the mite gradually affects all parts of the bush: buds, leaves, shoots. When the plants are affected, flowering stops, the formed buds disappear.

A favorable breeding environment for the pest is thickened plantings, dry weather.

With the active spread of the tick, you can lose up to 70% of the crop. The tick hibernates on fallen leaves, weeds, so the destruction of dry foliage, weeding the beds are the best preventive means of pest control.

stem fly

Actively develops in the branches of plants, causing wilting of the shoots. To prevent the spread of the pest, it is recommended to cut off the damaged tops of the stems.

You should not be very zealous - only cut out top part infected stems. The cut parts are immediately burned, as the larvae remain in them.

Optimum pest control autumn application insecticides. Several methods have worked well:

• Funafon - 10 ml of the product is diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water. A liter of solution is enough to process one bush;
• Intavir - available in tablets. Dissolve one tablet in a bucket of water;
• Actellik - sold in 2 ml ampoules. To prepare the solution, dilute one ampoule in two liters of water.

A solution of copper / iron sulfate can protect the bushes from lichen, moss or fungi. To increase the effect, it is recommended, in addition to plants, to process the soil near the raspberries.

Favorable and unfavorable days according to the lunar calendar

Fall 2018 the greatest benefit will bring care of plants in the following days:

• September - 23 and 24, from the 26th to the 30th;
• October - from 1 to 3, 8, from 10 to 16, from 20 to 23, from 25 to 30.

Caring for raspberries in the fall, preparing for winter does not involve special, difficult events. If you consistently follow all the recommendations of experienced gardeners, then even novice summer residents and gardeners can grow and harvest decent crops of delicious berries.

Raspberry is a common garden shrub. Ordinary varieties begin to bear fruit only in the second year after planting, and produce a crop only once per season.

Remontant raspberries are not very different from other varieties, but they have a significant advantage - they are able to produce several harvests per year. As a rule, the overall yield is higher. Remontant raspberries are more resistant to diseases and pests common for this crop, and therefore the quality of the fruits is higher. In addition, she is unpretentious in care.

Another one important feature- almost all remontant varieties are large-fruited.

No wonder remontant raspberries are so popular among gardeners. Such varieties are beneficial to grow on household plots for personal use, and on plantations for commercial purposes. We will talk about the rules of cultivation, planting and care in this article.

Optimal landing time

Planting remontant raspberries in open ground carried out both in spring and autumn. by the most the right time autumn is considered, the period of time from the end of September to the beginning of October. This is for temperate latitudes.

In more southern regions, landing can be done in late October or early November. In autumn, raspberries take root better, during the winter period they are not exposed to diseases, and in spring the culture is already ready for intensive growth. However, you can plant it in early spring (before the buds have blossomed).

Repair raspberries take root well in the lungs fertile soils. ground water should lie at a depth of at least 1 m from the surface of the site on which the raspberry will be located. Remontant varieties require more light and moisture than ordinary raspberries.

The plant also needs a lot of heat. If the raspberries are located in the shade, then the ripening time will be postponed, and the harvest will not be plentiful. The area under the raspberries should be protected from strong winds (shrubs are best planted along the fence, wall of the house or other building).

Soil preparation

Before planting remontant raspberries in open ground, attention should be paid to the characteristics and type of soil. The most suitable type of soil is loam (soil containing clay and a significant amount of sand). The acidity index should be in the range of 5.8-6.7 pH.

If the soil is too acidic, then it is neutralized with dolomite, ground limestone or marl. Raspberries develop well if mustard or rye is smelled 1.5 months before planting in the ground. It is not recommended to plant this crop in the area where tomatoes, potatoes or peppers grew. They deplete the soil, pulling out all the nutrients and trace elements from it.

Landing step by step instructions

spring

"Prepare the sleigh in summer and the cart in winter." At spring planting remontant raspberries, the soil must be prepared in the fall. The site is cleared of weeds, the earth is dug up. At the same time, the soil should be fertilized. For each square meter plot, you need to add about 2 buckets of humus, a glass of superphosphate and potassium sulfide (instead of them, you can take 200-300 g of complex mineral dressings), the soil is carefully dug up.

An important stage is the choice of a seedling. The plant must have a well-developed root system. The thickness of the stem at the base must be at least 5 mm, and optimal height escape - no more than 20-25 cm. It is easy to check the viability of a seedling.

Before buying, lightly pry off the bark of a young shoot. The stem should be greenish. Seedling buds should not be dry. If the root system is dryish, then before planting, the seedling should be lowered for a day into water with a growth stimulator. This measure is guaranteed to increase the survival rate of remontant raspberries in open ground.

Next, prepare the landing pits. Their depth should be about 40-50 cm. The distance between the pits in a row should be about 70 cm, and between the rows a distance of one and a half meters or more should be observed. Immediately before planting, the roots can be dipped in a solution of clay, black soil and mullein. In no case should mineral fertilizers be applied to the pit, so as not to burn the young, sensitive raspberry roots.

After that, a seedling is established, straightening the roots. landing pit fill with soil so that the root collar is at the level of the surface of the site.

It should be noted that on sandy soils the root neck can be at a depth of up to 4 cm. After compacting the earth, watering is carried out. Under each bush you need to pour about 5 liters of water. After soaking, raspberries are mulched sawdust, straw, bark or plant debris.

autumn

As already said, best time autumn is for planting remontant raspberries. At autumn planting the soil is prepared in the spring - it is dug up, while fertilizing. In autumn, raspberries are planted according to the same algorithm as in spring.

Care

spring

Measures for the care of remontant raspberries begin immediately after wintering, from the first days of March, while the ground is still frozen. At this time, complex mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil.

In mid-April, sanitary pruning of shrubs is carried out. Dried or damaged shoots are removed, and healthy stems are cut back to the first healthy bud. If a fungal disease is suspected, the bushes are treated with a 1% solution of ferrous sulfate. If there are no signs of the disease, then preventive treatment is carried out in early May.

AT spring period remontant raspberries are fertilized with complex mineral fertilizers, adding growth stimulants to them. The end of May is marked by preventive treatment from pests. For these purposes, any biological insecticide is suitable.

It is necessary to loosen the soil around the shrubs, remove weeds and water every week. Remontant raspberries do not tolerate soil compaction. Loosening should begin with early spring. During the season, this procedure is carried out up to 4-6 times. The aisle is loosened to a depth of 10-15 cm, and the ground around the bushes - by 5-8 cm.

Summer

Summer care involves regular watering and loosening the soil. Water the bush weekly. Tall varieties of remontant raspberries during this period must be tied up. For these purposes, you can use the trellis method, or you can use the peg method.

In the first case, poles are installed along the landing (about every 3 m) and a wire is pulled between them at various levels in two or three rows (at a height of 70, 120 and 180 cm), to which raspberry shoots are tied. If the landings are single, then separate pegs are used for the garter, which are driven into the ground near each bush.

AT summer period there is a ripening of the fruits of remontant raspberries. Treatment with pesticides from pests and diseases is prohibited - the berries will absorb toxic substances. Intense solar radiation is also harmful for berries. Therefore, during the period of active sun, it is advisable to cover the bushes with a special net.

autumn

Remontant raspberry is known for the fact that it bears fruit until the first frost. autumn care is to prepare the plant for the winter period. After harvesting, the shoots that bear fruit in the current season are cut to ground level. In the first year after planting, stems 20-25 cm high are left. Full pruning is carried out only by the second year.

Next, the raspberries are cleaned of plant residues and mulch. It is advisable to burn them, because they may contain pests or pathogens. After that, winter watering of raspberries is carried out. late autumn the last loosening and digging of the soil are carried out, after which the soil is mulched with rotted manure or humus (layer thickness - 10 cm).

As a rule, remontant varieties are frost-resistant, and they do not need shelter for the winter. But if severe frosts are coming, then the raspberries should be covered with a layer of hay or straw. Uncut bushes must be tied up, bent to the ground and covered with dry foliage.

Care procedures

Watering

Remontant raspberries need regular watering. Moisten the soil every week. During the drought period, raspberries are watered more often. The ground under the shrub should always be slightly damp.

Watering is especially important before flowering, during active growth foliage and during the ripening of berries. The soil should be moistened to a depth of 25-35 cm. Before the winter period, the soil is saturated with moisture, making abundant watering.

You should carefully monitor the level of soil moisture. An excess of moisture affects remontant raspberries even more than its lack. Air does not enter the roots through wet soil, the development of the plant slows down. Shrubs are not watered with cold water. First, it must be infused in the open air. If the raspberries are covered with mulch, then the amount of watering is significantly reduced.

top dressing

Growing remontant raspberries is not complete without top dressing. Due to abundant fruiting, remontant varieties use a large number of nutrients, which go to the growth of the shrub and the formation of the crop.

High-quality top dressing of the soil before planting should be enough for three years. From the third year it is already necessary to apply fertilizers.

Raspberries respond well to organic matter. At the beginning of the growing season, mullein mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10 is introduced into the soil. Instead, you can use bird droppings, diluted in water in a ratio of 1:20. Organic fertilizers are applied 2-3 times per season. From 3 to 5 liters of liquid mixture is required per square meter of the site. Such top dressing will saturate the soil with the necessary components for the development of raspberries.

The plant also needs mineral supplements. In particular, remontant raspberries need potash fertilizers. Without potassium, the leaves become smaller, the edges become brown, the tissues around the veins die off. The plant also needs phosphorus. Without this element, the stems turn purple, become sluggish and may even die.

The lack of potassium is replenished with potassium magnesia or potassium sulfate. It is important that potash fertilizers do not contain chlorine. You can make up for the lack of phosphorus with the help of superphosphate. For each square meter of soil, it is recommended to add 50-70 g of superphosphate, 20-40 g of potassium sulfate and about 30 g of urea. These substances can be replaced with one complete complex fertilizer (for example, Nitroammofoska), which is applied in the spring (60-100 g per square meter).

Remontant raspberries are sensitive to nitrogen deficiency. Nitrogen-containing substances are introduced into the soil in early spring, because in autumn they can extend the growing season of the plant, preventing preparation for wintering. In the absence of mulch, every two years it is advisable to scatter humus under the bushes (5-6 kg per square meter).

pruning

In the spring, they begin sanitary pruning. The bush is carefully examined. After wintering, cracks or dry patches may form on unpruned shoots.

Such stems are cut to the first healthy bud. The tops of viable shoots are not touched - their pruning can delay the ripening of fruits and harm the future crop. These procedures are carried out exclusively during the swelling of the kidneys. During this period, it is easy to recognize healthy and affected kidneys.

If the remontant variety in your area produces a lot of root shoots, then remove it without hesitation. Only 10-15 shoots per square meter are left, of which one half are replacement shoots, and the other half are two-year-old fruiting stems.

At the end of the fruiting period, all shoots of remontant raspberries are cut to ground level (leave only 3 cm above the surface). These varieties are vigorous. Next year, the raspberries will grow back, yielding at the same level. This procedure will protect the plant from diseases and pests in the winter. There is another approach.

Trim only the tops of the stems. This allows you to stretch the fruiting period in the next season, because the berries will ripen not only on annual, but also on biennial shoots.

reproduction

Root offspring

Propagation of remontant raspberries with the help of root offspring is not always possible, because many varieties practically do not form root shoots. The method consists in digging up the root processes and transplanting them to another place.

The greatest amount of material for propagation is given by bushes at the age of 4-5 years. When the processes have reached a height of 7-10 cm, they are dug up and seated. They are shaded from the sun, watered regularly. Two weeks later, the offspring take root, they no longer need sun protection. By autumn, good seedlings are obtained, which are planted in a permanent place.

Root cuttings

After the autumn harvest, they dig up the root of the plant, select a root with a diameter of at least 2 cm and divide it into pieces 10-12 cm long. They are planted on a separate bed, the depth of the holes should be from 6 to 8 cm. In the spring they will sprout, which regularly water, mulch and fertilize. And by the autumn they will be ready for transplanting to a permanent place.

Green cuttings

Green cuttings are harvested in late spring. For these purposes, annual stems are suitable, which are separated from the mother bush by a small root. They are dug up, then cut off at a height of 4-5 cm (the shoot should have a leaf rosette) and planted in a greenhouse (into a mixture of river sand and peat).

The stalk is intensively watered, fed and protected from diseases, after successful rooting, the greenhouse is regularly ventilated. You can also lower the cuttings into a solution with a growth stimulator. This will increase survival. After successful rooting, they are transplanted to a permanent place.

Which remontant raspberry variety to choose?

To date, there are a large number of varieties of remontant raspberries. This makes the choice somewhat more difficult.

Here is a little help to the gardener:

• early varieties: Hercules, Eurasia, Brilliant;
• late varieties: Heritage, Zyugana, Erika;
• large-fruited varieties: Monomakh's Hat, Gold autumn, Bryansk Divo;
• varieties with the best palatability berries: Apricot, Orange Miracle, Firebird;
• high-yielding varieties: Atlant, Eurasia, Indian Leto.

And this is just a small list of varieties of remontant raspberries. Everyone can choose a variety depending on individual preferences. When choosing raspberries, also pay attention to the fruiting period and the preferred growing region. Good harvest!

Remontant raspberry is a popular raspberry variety, since with a competent approach to caring for its bushes, you can harvest a huge crop and, importantly, the crop is harvested twice a season. And in view of such features of this raspberry variety, the technology of care and processing differs significantly from summer varieties. In particular, caring for remontant raspberries in the fall is different, and planting remontant raspberries in the fall requires certain knowledge and skills.

With the advent of autumn, remontant raspberries continue to yield and bear fruit. It must be borne in mind that care for the bushes of this variety of raspberries, preparation for the winter period will occur much later. And therefore, it is necessary to know how to care for remontant raspberries so as not to harm the shrub, but on the contrary, to increase the productivity of the crop next year.

Planting and caring for raspberries in the fall are different and depend on whether multiple crops are planned per season or not. In autumn, remontant raspberry shoots that do not bear fruit must be removed.

But you need to take into account the fact that newly planted plants are not cut off completely, but leave a stem about 20 cm long, due to which the seedling will accumulate nutrients for the next season.

Full pruning of raspberries in autumn is done the following year, when the planted plant takes root. At the same time, you need to transplant cuttings that have well-formed roots.

Autumn care for raspberries is not only pruning cuttings and bushes, but also soil preparation: watering and fertilizing.

Video “Caring for raspberries in the fall and preparing for winter time”

In this video, you will learn how to properly care for raspberries in the fall and how to prepare a bush for winter.

Watering

The raspberry shrub is a lover of moist soil, but overdoing it with watering is also bad. How to water remontant raspberry bushes?

From mid-May, until the very ripening of the berries, the shrub needs regular, abundant watering, with a frequency of 1 to 2 times a week, otherwise the shoots will become lethargic, and the fruits will become completely dried and medium-sized. It must be borne in mind that even after rains, watering does not need to be stopped, since the soil must be moist at a depth of up to 10-12 cm.

top dressing

Raspberries take root well and give high yield if grown in generous, fertilized organic soil.

It is recommended to plant remontant raspberries in prepared, loose and enriched soil. If you do not know how to plant remontant raspberries, then you can use one of the most convenient and popular methods - tape.

To do this, you need to dig a shallow ditch - 30-40 cm deep and 40-50 cm wide. For a linear meter of planted seedlings, the soil that was on the surface due to the dug trench is mixed with the following components: about 3 buckets of humus or compost, 220 g of superphosphate and 85 g of potassium salt or 650 g wood ash. All components are mixed with the soil, and the seedlings fall asleep with the resulting mixture while the shrub is planted.

Such a high-quality filling of the soil with mineral and organic fertilizers will give the necessary supply of nutrients to raspberries for several years. Plants will quickly take root, get stronger, begin to grow, and subsequently - bear fruit abundantly.

If for some reason you had to plant seedlings in unprepared soil, you can correct the situation and continue to grow bushes, harvesting an excellent harvest if you apply organic fertilizers before the winter period. Thus, for several years in a row, it is necessary to scatter compost or rotted manure under the bushes and around the bushes at the end of autumn.

And in the spring, in May, you need to feed the raspberry bushes with an infusion of mullein, which is prepared in the following way: cow dung diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Popular and productive is chicken manure, mixed with water, in a ratio of 1:20. Raspberry bushes are fed 2-3 times per season, taking into account the fact that per 1 sq. m. accounts for 3-5 liters of liquid manure solution.

Top dressing should be done regularly, since this shrub is highly productive, the plant needs numerous nutrients.

Organic fertilizers are great, but we must not forget the importance of enriching the soil with minerals. Provided that during the planting of raspberries, the soil was enriched with a sufficient amount of mineral fertilizers, then the plants will not need to be fed with minerals. But the lack of minerals will be visible to the naked eye, according to appearance plants. For example, if raspberry leaves become small, and the edges become dark brown, and the tissues between the veins of the leaves gradually die off, the plant has a potassium deficiency. With a lack of phosphorus, the shoots weaken and wither, and the stems of the shrub become dark purple and gradually die off.

To fertilize the soil with potassium, use potassium magnesia or potassium sulfate. Fertilizing with phosphorus is carried out in the spring, together with such fertilizers: nitroammophos (50-100 grams per square meter). You can also use carbamide (20-40 g each), superphosphate (50-80 g each) and potash fertilizers (20-40 g each) per 1 sq. m. soil.

Remontant raspberries need nitrogen, but top dressing with nitrogen-containing substances can be done in the spring, because if you do this in the fall, you can prolong the growing season, which will prevent the plant from properly preparing for winter. If, for some reason, soil mulching is not performed, then once every two years you need to scatter humus under raspberry bushes, at the rate of 5-6 kg per square meter. m.

In the spring, raspberries need such a mineral substance as nitrogen, so immediately after the snow melts, it is imperative to add urea, at the rate of 40 g of fertilizer per linear meter of trench. If at this dosage of top dressing, the shoots reach a length of more than 2 m, the dose of nitrogen from next year will need to be reduced.

It is very easy to understand that everything is in order with your raspberry bushes, they are fed and they do not have a lack of nutrients, it is enough to observe the plant. A well-fertilized, healthy and powerful raspberry bush, starting from the second year, should annually form young, strong shoots up to two meters high in the center of the plant.

How to prune in autumn

Pruning bushes has several goals: all old, dry and diseased branches are removed. And most importantly, competent pruning significantly increases the yield for the next year, helping shoots to overwinter in cold weather. Also, thinning the bushes has a positive effect on the quality and size of the berries.

Preparation of raspberries for winter begins in September, at the beginning of October. These dates preparatory work are important, since a decrease in temperature will not make it possible to carry out proper training well.

Experienced gardeners who grow remontant raspberry varieties recommend cutting off the bushes completely for the winter.

It is necessary to cut each stem, to the very root. Even small stumps should not be left, as various pests can penetrate into them, which will settle there for the whole winter. Stems that are at least two years old should be pruned, they are very easy to distinguish in appearance, they look dry and dark in color. Broken, dry shoots growing inside the bush, and young, thin branches should also be removed.

At the end of autumn, for the winter in a raspberry bush, after pruning has occurred, from 5 to 7 healthy, strong stems should remain. Careful thinning of raspberry bushes is one of the main steps in preparing for a successful wintering, which will ensure a favorable experience of frost. After pruning under the raspberry bushes, you need to apply fertilizers consisting of organic matter (humus is good) and carefully dig the soil.

Preparing for winter

Preparation for the wintering of raspberries actually takes place since the summer, when planned fertilizing is carried out, and here it is necessary to observe the dosage and frequency, and not overfeed the soil. It should be noted that an overdose nitrogen fertilizers significantly reduces the frost resistance of the bush. The location of the plot of land on which raspberries are grown also plays an important role. This should be a site that gets plenty of sunlight, if possible without drafts, then the shoots will be strong and easily overwinter. If the raspberry was covered with hay or straw, it must be cleaned, as mice can live there in winter.

Raspberries are hardy enough, but severe frosts can destroy the bush. To avoid this, experienced gardeners use such a method of preparing for wintering as bending the bushes to the ground. Since nature itself came up with the best shelter for shrubs and trees, generously covering everything around with snow, then the raspberry bush, which is as close to the ground as possible, will be protected by the necessary cover with the advent of snowy winter. When tilting and bending the shoots, it must be taken into account that all the branches are completely covered with snow. When raspberry bushes grow in one row along the trellises, they need to be bent one on top of the other, fixed to the bottom wire. Such preparation should be done before persistent frosts set in. During frosts, the stems of the shrub become less flexible, and there is a high probability that you will be able to break them.

Before you bend the branches of the shrub to the ground, you need to clear them of foliage, otherwise the leaves will get wet and rot, which can cause burns of young buds. Leaves from the stems are easily peeled if you hold your hand, dressed in a household mitten, from the bottom up. So you quickly get rid of the leaves without damaging the flower buds.

That's all the main information you need to know about remontant raspberries, about caring for them in the fall and preparing for winter. It remains only to wait for warming, and carefully release the stems of the shrub. The bushes should straighten themselves. And only after some time it is necessary to remove those stems that broke or did not survive the winter. And get ready to harvest.

And how many times a season to harvest remontant raspberries - twice a season, or once, everyone needs to decide on this on their own, taking into account such factors: that when you harvest twice a year, you will pick medium-sized berries. The reason for this is the following: the summer harvest thoroughly wears out the plant, so in the fall the raspberries ripen much later, and the berries themselves turn out to be small, dryish.

After reading rave reviews on the Internet about the abundance of large, sweet berries that completely cover raspberry bushes in summer and autumn, there is a desire to replace the usual varieties on your site with repair ones. Why not collect a double crop every year, and even enjoy your favorite berry, when the neighbors' raspberries have long borne fruit!

Some gardeners prefer remontant raspberry- pruning it is very simple, you do not need to bend the bushes for the winter, and the crop can be harvested twice a season, which is simply impossible in the case of ordinary varieties. But not everything is as wonderful as we would like, and growing remontant raspberries has certain disadvantages.

Photo of remontant raspberries

In fact, you have to choose: either harvest the bushes twice, but the berries will be of mediocre quality, or wait for the second, more abundant fruiting, and enjoy excellent raspberries. The fact is that the summer harvest weakens the plant, and as a result, the berry ripens much later in the fall, and the berries are small and bony. Therefore, experienced gardeners prefer to allocate space in the garden for both remontant and regular varieties in order to collect ripe berries during July, and then also in early autumn.

Video about the features of caring for repair raspberries

Having figured it out how to prune remontant raspberries, and providing the bushes with sufficient lighting, moist soil and necessary feeding, you can count on bountiful harvest in autumn time. It may take more effort than ordinary raspberries, but how nice it is to eat fresh sweet berries from the bushes in September!

In most regions of Russia, the most favorable time for planting remontant varieties is the last decade of September or the first days of October (just when they are planted). The seedlings planted at this time have time to properly prepare for the winter cold in order to start growing in time in the spring. It’s not worth planting before, because the root system of seedlings in September is not yet fully formed, which means that raspberries can take root poorly.

It can also be planted in early spring, digging up seedlings for the winter in an inclined position. Even planting is allowed in May-June, but in this case, the seedlings must be kept under a layer of snow sprinkled with straw or sawdust so that they do not melt longer.

In the conditions of a short Russian summer, it is better to choose new remontant varieties for growing, which differ rapid growth and precocity.

In the photo, growing remontant raspberries

Seedlings of remontant raspberries are planted in rows or separate bushes, like a regular one, leaving a distance of about one meter between plants.

The procedure for planting seedlings does not differ from planting other varieties of raspberries: they dig shallow holes for the root system, add fertilizer to the soil, install seedlings in holes and tamp the ground. After planting, be sure to water the seedling abundantly.

Proper care:

• Due to the superficial root system, it is not recommended to loosen the ground under raspberries, and in order to avoid the appearance of weeds, the soil must be mulched;
• remontant raspberries require abundant watering during the season, especially during fruiting;
• so that the berries are large and the harvest is rich, the bushes should be fed in March complex fertilizers, and before flowering and at the end of autumn fruiting with superphosphate and potassium sulfate;
• for the prevention of fungal diseases () can be treated with Bordeaux liquid in April, and biological preparations can be used from pests during flowering.

Deserves special attention pruning shoots, because it largely depends on how good the annual harvest of berries will be.

Photo of pruning remontant raspberries

How to prune remontant raspberries at different times of the year?

Fruiting occurs on biennial shoots, as in ordinary varieties, and on annual growth shoots. But since the plant spends too much energy on the maturation of the first crop and on the formation of replacement shoots for the second crop, a special technology for growing remontant raspberries is preferable.

In the first year, young shoots grow on the seedlings, which are covered with flowers in July, and with berries in August. Annual shoots are not left for the next year, but cut out without exception, up to three-centimeter stumps. Pruning is carried out in October-November, when all the berries from the bushes have already been collected.

Video about pruning remontant raspberries

Enough in the springtime sanitization bushes: only those shoots that have frozen or dried out during the winter are cut to the first healthy bud. April is best suited for this procedure, since it is easier to determine which one is healthy by swollen buds.

Additionally, in May, you can pinch the tops of the shoots so that the fruiting of remontant raspberries begins later and is longer.