How to drain water from the water heater and from the water supply system for the winter. How to drain water from underfloor heating

How to drain water from a warm floor - methods and features of work

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Installing a warm floor implies a long and stable operation heating system. Such a system is equally convenient in a city apartment, and in country house, and in the country. Such a floor can be arranged in almost any residential area, however, its operational efficiency is affected by the compliance with the technical characteristics of the products. design features premises. Correct calculation and correct styling heating circuits, high-quality pressure testing of the underfloor heating system makes it possible for property owners to forget about the maintenance of heating equipment for a long time.

Check price and buy heating equipment And related products you can with us. Write, call and come to one of the stores in your city. Delivery across all territory of the Russian Federation and the CIS countries.

But nothing lasts forever, and any products may require repair work. Underfloor heating is a complex complex of very different equipment, a malfunction in the operation of one of the elements can cause a breakdown of the entire heating system.

Sometimes, for example, in case of problems with throughput or the tightness of such a floor, the conservation of the house, it is necessary to drain the water from the heating circuit.

In the article, we will analyze in more detail when this procedure is required and how, in principle, to drain water from a warm floor.

Draining water from underfloor heating

Why drain the water?

There are many reasons why it may be necessary to drain water from an underfloor heating system. For example, this procedure should be carried out if the owners are not at home for a long time, or when it became necessary to replace water as a coolant with antifreeze. You need to do everything right so as not to violate the integrity of the system. Below we consider the rules for draining the liquid.

Often such a need arises during the conservation of the heating system for the winter. This procedure is often carried out on summer cottages and in houses outside the city, which are empty for a long time. To simplify and speed up the draining process, a special technique is used.

Remember that water in houses with seasonal use must be drained. Otherwise, freezing will cause the system to freeze. That is why the use of antifreeze as a coolant is more preferable - in addition to resistance to low temperatures, this solution also protects pumps from excessive wear.

Another important point when using underfloor heating is preventive maintenance in the heating system. The water from the boiler contains many impurities, which, when heated, precipitate or form layers on the walls of the pipeline.

Due to the decrease in the internal clearance of the heat conductors, the circulation of the heat carrier in the system is disturbed, and the heat output becomes lower. Therefore, experts recommend that when using water, drain the coolant from the system at least once a year.

A fluid circuit that is filled does not have this problem. In this case, the coolant can be replaced only once every 3-5 years (the main condition is the operation of the boiler without overheating, for warm floors the maximum threshold allowable temperature liquid is 45-55 °C).

Another reason that water may need to be drained is if the fluid loses its own physical properties. Antifreeze parameters change after overheating - the solution begins to form foam. When the foam fills separate sections heat conductors, this disrupts the circulation of the heat carrier in the system and the heat transfer becomes lower.

Inconsistency in the installation technology of underfloor heating, the use of materials that are not intended for contact with chemicals, contributes to the formation of corrosion in the heating system. As a result, the circulation of the heat carrier is also disturbed, and water circuit leaks appear.

Of course, you will have to drain the water from the underfloor heating circuit when replacing it with antifreeze.

These are the main reasons why systems need to be deflated. And no matter what the basis, the water must be drained in accordance with all the rules, following safety precautions and technological sequence all items.

Draining water in stages

Heated floors are closed system, so it’s worth taking care of the drain taps even during installation work. The number of valves must be equal to the number of water circuits.

- this is by and large a long hose that is laid in the floor. Laying option, i.e. the configuration of the circuits may be different, however, the liquid circuit works according to the same principle - the heat carrier gives off heat to the surrounding space by heating the floor surface.

Before the drain event, the heating system must be turned off, then wait for the time it takes to completely cool all its elements.

Taking into account the fact that the water circuit is connected to the main pipeline, and the connection point is above the floor level, the water is forcibly drained using an air compressor.

Power household vacuum cleaner not enough to drain the liquid from the water heating system.

A compressor with a working pressure of up to 5 bar is used to purge the water circuit. A more powerful device can destroy heat pipes.

Emptying is carried out through a return line equipped with drain valve, and the compressor is connected to the manifold on the inlet pipe, because of this check valve may create some interference when blowing the pipe.

After connecting to the collector, the compressor starts to displace the heat carrier from the circuit and the air supply pressure is slowly increased - up to a value after which the liquid began to flow out at the outlet. Do not forget that the volume of water in each of the contours of underfloor heating is not so large, therefore, an ordinary small container of 8-10 liters is enough to receive it.

The compressor must be turned on until air begins to flow continuously from the pipe immediately behind the water.

When you do not have the opportunity to use the compressor, you can use another way to empty the system of liquid and thereby avoid defrosting the heating system. A hose is put on the inlet of the heat pipe right size 1 meter long with a funnel at the end. The end with the funnel needs to be raised higher and antifreeze is slowly poured into it (take a brightly colored one). Gradually, water will begin to flow from the return pipe, and then liquid. The procedure will take time, but you will not regret that you expended energy.

Nuances and features

Before preparing for the drain, you need to study how it works in order to find and mark on the supply and return circuits the location of the valves, which are marked as follows:

• feed are red;
• return is blue.

We drain the water from the collector of the warm floor

If you confuse the supply circuit with the return, then drain system will not work, as the check valve will block the pipeline.

In the absence of a receiving container, you can get out of the situation by connecting the drain hose to the return flow valve, stretching it to the nearest sewerage intake (toilet bowl, washbasin).

After you have drained the liquid from one circuit, drain all the remaining ones in the same way. At the time of emptying any system section, the valves of other circuits must be closed; at the end of each stage, the valves of already empty pipelines must also be closed.

To be sure that the circuits are 100% clean of water, the purging process is repeated an hour later (when water drains from the pipe walls and accumulates in a certain area).

Draining water from a warm water floor from time to time is a necessary operation. How often the procedure is required depends on the frequency of use of the heating system and the quality of the coolant. In areas where the water is hard and contains a lot of impurities, it is worth removing liquid from the heating circuit at least once a year.

You do not need to spend money on replacing water in the heating pipeline (perhaps the only exception will be paying for the compressor rental), therefore it is recommended to carry out this manipulation in a timely manner, thus extending the time of stable operation of the water circuits.

If antifreeze is used as a coolant, then draining is required much less often - once every 3-5 years, however, following high safety measures. This is because ethylene glycol, which is used to produce antifreeze solutions, as well as its vapors, are classified as toxic substances, and they require the use of products personal protection(special clothing, goggles and gloves) and ventilation.

Today, unforeseen situations often arise that force you to do unusual things, and therefore the question of how to properly drain water from a heating battery is being asked more and more often by people who are not specialists in this field.

Read more about how the process is carried out in the article.

We drain the water from the battery correctly

If the battery is not warm enough in winter period, when replacing or when pipes break due to a temperature jump, it becomes necessary to drain the water from the battery. You have to do it yourself most of the time.

How to properly drain water from the battery? You just need to take into account some points of the process and follow the recommendations of experts.

First of all, it should be understood that draining water into apartment building is produced from a segment of the network, and in private houses the entire system is drained.

Water drain in the apartment

Drainage of water in the apartment must be carried out as follows:

• close the distribution valve, which departs from the riser;
• perform certain actions depending on the type of reinforcement.

If there is a Mayevsky crane, it is necessary to unscrew the key with plastic handle or use a slotted screwdriver.

The faucet has a side hole that faces the wall. It must be covered, otherwise dirty water from the battery system can flood the wall.

After that, you need to slightly unscrew the screw - until water flows out of the hole.

Why is this being done? So that part of the air mixed with the coolant comes out in the process. When the jet becomes stable, it is necessary to tighten the valve of the system.

To check the correctness of the above actions, it is advisable to make sure that the previously cold part of the battery has warmed up. If this does not happen, then it is necessary to drain the water again.

If you have a conventional faucet, you must connect a long hose to the valve, which should be enough to sewer.

Then you need to open the valve of the battery completely to create a strong flow inside.

As the water speed increases, the air exits faster, but the network pressure and the power of the air lock are better taken into account.

It is necessary to control the drain process until the cold sections of the battery begin to warm up. This is usually quite lengthy.

In the absence of fittings, it is advisable to resort to the help of specialists, especially if you drain water from the system of cast-iron Soviet batteries.

If the apartment has a cast-iron radiator, then it is necessary to unscrew the nut and make sure that the gasket does not leak after tightening it.

Drainage of water in a private house

In modern sectional, it is necessary to slowly unscrew the top plug by 1-2 turns.

Drainage of water in the house must be carried out as follows:

• disconnect the boiler from the electricity supply;
• turn off the tap through which water enters the boiler;
• follow the steps above, depending on the type of reinforcement.

It is imperative to drain water from all devices to which it is connected. You should not forget about water seals - these are curved sections drain pipes under various types of plumbing.

Water may remain in the system cleaning filters, various types household appliances(washing and dishwasher), including electric water heaters.

Therefore, for the draining process, it is necessary to provide free access to them. The temperature should be around +5°C.

As a rule, the process of draining water from batteries in an apartment and a private house is not particularly difficult.

It is quite possible to perform the procedure on your own, but in the absence of a Mayevsky tap, you should still contact the specialists, otherwise it may end up flooding the neighbors with water, leaving the house without heating for a long time and filing a lawsuit.

Frost protection of the system

Exist various options home heating systems. They are based on the fact that if the owners of the house are not around for a long time, then the heating system is controlled by electronics.

This is a sensor that is installed in the room and reads the temperature, and a receiver that communicates directly with the boiler. An important condition for such automation is the need for constant access to the Internet.

Another option for freeze protection is the use of antifreeze.

However, if the system consists of zinc pipes, then this liquid cannot be used in the process.

Interacting with zinc, antifreeze loses its properties. In addition, it has a lower heat capacity than water, therefore, it requires the installation of a more powerful radiator and circulation pump.

To prevent freezing of residual water, it is recommended to use mixers with ceramic elements and taps with rubber seals in the system.

In addition, it is better to use polyethylene pipes low pressure(PND). They have higher performance characteristics, and when water freezes in the pipe, complete tightness is maintained. However, no damage to the pipe itself is observed.

A few words should be said about the safety outdoor system water supply. Properly chosen depth of non-freezing of the soil is an important condition for laying a water pipe.

The required slope of the pipes contributes to the unimpeded backflow of water.

If the pipes go outside, then a heating cable is required, which allows you to maintain the required temperature in the system and protects the pipes from condensate.

You need to turn it on at a temperature of -5 ° C and regulate the heating. If the temperature on the street dropped below the indicated one, and you did not have time to turn it on, you will have to wait until the ice has melted.

Proper frost protection and proper maintenance of the heating system will ensure that the system will serve you for many years.

However, it must be said that the whole process plumbing work requires time and attention and is necessary to avoid emergencies.

Therefore, if you still have questions about how to properly drain water from a heating battery, it is better to contact specialists.

Even a minor repair of one of the radiators or a heating pipe is inevitably associated with a complete drain of the coolant from the heating system. After completion of work, the circuit will have to be filled with water. The question arises - how to start the heating correctly? What temperature should the water be, at what speed should the liquid be poured? How to prepare and flush the home heating network? It is better if the work is done by the masters - many factors will have to be taken into account.

Types of heating systems in private houses

Residents apartment buildings It is not necessary to engage in an independent start-up of the heating system. Before starting repairs, specialists will warn all neighbors about the work and drain the liquid from the whole riser. The filling will also be handled by services that serve communications.

In a private house, heating can be installed in accordance with one of 2 standard schemes:

1. open.

1. closed.

An open network, which is also called a gravity network, is built without the installation of circulation pumps that distill the coolant inside the network. The fluid circulation is carried out by natural processes: hot water rises up, where in the expansion tank installed at the highest point, the medium comes into contact with air. The cooled water falls into lower part circuit, to the boiler, and is supplied for heating.

Open systems are rarely mounted. You can meet the "classics" only in houses where old boilers are used for heating, metal pipes and cast iron radiators. The volume of coolant in these types heating networks large, respectively, energy consumption is not economical.

Closed Circuits- this is heating with the connection of pumping equipment, which provides a constant circulation of hot water inside the system. Energy consumption (gas or electricity) is minimal, because the volume of liquid is only a few tens of liters. Due to the constant movement of water, the boiler is turned on only to heat the coolant to a predetermined temperature.

Replacing the coolant: reasons and frequency

Replacing water in a closed and open heating circuit is carried out:

• During the first start of heating.

After installation, the filling and start-up of the system is carried out

• After seasonal drying.

• When starting after repair work.

Regular topping up of liquid is required during operation, if there was no drain after heating season.

Why drain water from a home system

The question to which there is no definite answer is whether it is necessary to drain the circuit annually after the end of the heating season? The decision depends on the type, age and material of manufacture of the main elements - pipes and radiators, as well as on the total volume of liquid.

Each type has its own media replacement frequency

Most often drained for the summer systems with old cast iron radiators. The reason is the appearance of a leak after turning off the boilers. Old cast iron fins are screwed together with old gaskets. When there is hot water inside the batteries, the seals expand to provide a stable seal at the seams.

After the water cools, the material from which the gaskets are made naturally shrinks, and at the junction of the ribs, a leak begins. But a long downtime of old radiators without water is fraught with accelerated corrosion, rust inside the radiator and old pipes crumbles in a dry environment, and can disable the entire riser.

In closed new circuits, filling the heating system is not a costly process. But it is not recommended to completely drain the liquid every year - this is not necessary.

The frequency of replacing and topping up fluid in the heating system

How often do you need to change the fluid in the heating system? Several general rules:

• In contours open type In private homes, it is enough to simply add water if the system is tight, without subjecting old communications to stressful checks in the form of long dry downtime. Replacement is necessary only in case of emergency repair or preventive sealing, after flushing.

Leaks - drain and repair

• Closed heating systems need preventive flushing and change of coolant after a few years.

The frequency of filling with new fluid depends on the characteristics of the water, the life of the synthetic coolant, and the general condition of the system. With strong airing of the extreme points, it is recommended to identify the cause - find the place of the leak and check the tightness of the heating network. Typically, water changes are carried out every few seasons.

The choice of coolant: what to fill in the home system

Before pouring new fluid into the heating system closed type, be sure to select a coolant. Only 3 options:

1. Water.

1. Synthetic carrier.

Antifreeze for home systems

Important! Water can be used in any home heating system, as long as part of the circuit does not come into contact with cold outside air. If the boiler room is outside the house, the pipes are laid in the ground without thermal insulation, you need to use antifreeze liquids– when the boiler is switched off, frozen water will cause the pipes to crack.

Can the system be filled with tap water

Do not try to save money by pouring into new system tap water. Tap water is “enriched” not only with chlorine, which, when heated, adversely affects the surfaces it comes into contact with. Under the influence of temperature, which can reach 60 - 80 °, plaque begins to form on the inner walls of pipes, connectors, radiators. Deposits resemble scale inside electric kettle with the same consequences: hard deposits block the internal gaps over time. As a result, part of the radiators can remain cold even when high temperature carrier.

Deposits in the pipe when using tap water

In addition to troubles with water stone, which forms a layer of plaque on the walls of pipes, the use of ordinary tap water can provoke problems that arise due to chemical reactions occurring in the carrier during heating. Aggressive impurities are not in the best way affect the condition of the coating inside the radiators, corrode seals, accelerate corrosion processes.

Conclusion - with a small amount of liquid, it makes no sense to save. It is better to pour distilled water into a closed-type heating system.

Distilled water with surfactants and additives for heating

Advantages:

• Low cost.

• Reduced viscosity, good fluidity.

• No impurities.

• No chlorine.

• Increased boiling point.

The distillate as a heat carrier has a beneficial effect on the operation of the entire system: purified water warms up faster, the load on the pump equipment, there is no risk of clogging inside the pipes, the appearance of deposits on the inner walls.

Synthetic coolants: application features

Available for sale ready solutions and concentrates based on:

• propylene glycol.

• Ethylene glycol.

• Glycerin.

Concentrate for home use

Despite not irreproachable performance ethylene glycol, it is better not to pour solutions based on it into the home heating network - the substance is dangerous to health.

When buying, you should focus not on the price, but on the degree of concentration of the active substance. Different brands coolant is diluted in a certain proportion. Before preparing the solution, be sure to read the instructions for diluting the composition.

Synthetic carriers degrade over time, so before you throw away the canister from the concentrate, find information on the expiration date and mark with a marker near the boiler or inlet pipe so that you do not forget to replace the coolant in time.

Replacing the coolant in a standard closed home heating network

The launch of the heating system in a private house with filling with water is carried out according to sophisticated technology. To work, you will have to buy or borrow special equipment and follow the instructions. If you are not sure of the integrity of the circuit, there are visible damage to the elements, be sure to call a specialist.

Preparatory stage: what is required for work

Before filling the heating system in a private house, determine the method of pouring liquid into the circuit. There are 4 options for resolving the issue:

1. Networks equipped with valve automation are filled without third-party intervention. The principle is that when the pressure level inside the circuit drops, the valve automatically opens and filling takes place until the optimum working pressure is reached.

Heating water make-up unit

1. Heating with modern double-circuit boiler fill out water pipe: systems are connected.

1. A circuit with an expansion membrane tank is easier to fill through the pipes where the expander is located, after dismantling the tank.

1. With the help of a special supercharger - a pump for pumping water into the heating system, which is connected to the inlet pipe.

From the tools you will need keys of the appropriate diameter for dismantling the tank, a pump if you plan to fill the distillate, a sealing tape for connections.
If the question is being resolved how to start heating in a private house after downtime, or if it is necessary to replace the old carrier, you will have to purchase special agent for washing.

Leak test: how to make a pressure test

The old network must be checked for tightness and no leaks. Also, a mandatory check is carried out at the first start-up of heating. Do not neglect the crimping stage, especially if the house has areas with floor heating that will be under the screed and decorative coating. Fixing a leak after the repair is completed is expensive and not easy.

Before starting the test of the old heating, all the water is drained. To drain the carrier, open the tap. You need to act slowly and carefully. Before draining, be sure to check the temperature of the water - the media must cool to 30 o. The drain valve is located at the lowest point of the circuit.

Important! Use a measuring container when draining the coolant to find out the exact volume of liquid. There will be no question about the amount of water that needs to be poured into the heating network.

After drying, the air valve is opened - the Mayevsky tap. Air will fill the circuit and equalize the pressure within the system.

Start pressing. Using a pump: connect a hose to the inlet pipe. The valve at the top is left open so that air can escape freely.

The fluid is injected until a pressure exceeding the working indicator by 1.5 times is reached. That is, if the operating pressure is 1.5 bar, when checking, it is necessary to increase the indicator to 2.0 - 2.25 bar (but not more than the maximum indicator allowed for the boiler).

Close the top valve after water begins to flow from it. Assess tightness. Check the dryness of all difficult areas:

• Places of entry and exit of pipes from radiators.

• Pipe connections.

• Points at the inlet and outlet of the boiler.

• Other threaded connections.

The liquid under high pressure is left for several hours: if during this time there is no leak, then the heating is in order.

There are two ways to create excessive pressure: liquid (water injection) and dry (air injection). The difficulty of self-checking lies in the fact that when pouring water, an unpleasant situation can arise if there is a gap in the circuit (crack or leaky connection). It is better to entrust the crimping to the master.

Do you plan to leave water as a heat carrier? Simply drain off the excess until the pressure drops to an operating value of 1.5 bar.

Flushing your home heating system

Cleaning must be done:

• If the system is old.

• If ordinary water was used as a coolant.

Before washing, dilute the cleaning agent with water in the proportion indicated in the instructions. Pour the product with a pump, fill the circuit with water.

Flushing is a must

Leave for several hours. During this time, the solution dissolves the sediment accumulated in the radiators, removes deposits from the inner walls.

After flushing, drain all the liquid and proceed to fill the system. Also, flushing is mandatory before filling a closed-type heating system with antifreeze.

Filling with coolant: step by step

Before proceeding with the filling of the liquid, measure required amount coolant. If synthetic solutions are used, prepare the mixture by diluting the concentrate with distillate to the desired volume.
Before connecting the pump for pumping coolant into the heating system:

• Close the drain cock.

• Check the air bleed valves: all taps must be closed.

• Mayevsky's crane, located at the top point, is left open.

A pump is connected to the pipe through which the liquid will be poured. The pumps are usually equipped flexible hoses from threaded connection. The water intake hose is lowered into the container with the carrier.

Start filling the system. It is important to choose optimal power pump operation, avoiding too rapid filling. Simultaneously with the set of water, monitor the open tap. Filling is stopped after the carrier begins to flow out of the open Mayevsky tap.

Checking and preparing for launch

The last step before starting the heating is to remove excess air and check. It is necessary to bleed the air remaining in the circuit from all air valves. To do this, alternately open the taps at the extreme points, release air. The taps are closed after the water starts to flow.

When all the air is bled, check the pressure indicator. Normally, the indicators of all pressure gauges installed in the circuit should match, and be at around 1.5 - 1.8 bar. When using antifreeze, the indicator is sometimes increased to a maximum of 2 bar.

After checking the pressure, turn on the boiler. At a carrier temperature not exceeding 40 °, the system operates up to 1 hour. Then the heating is turned off. After cooling, another check is performed at a higher temperature. The carrier is heated to 60 - 70 o. In this mode, heating is left for 2 - 3 hours.

Starting an open heating system

Carry out filling open system heating is easier. No special tools needed. It is enough to define top point water in the expansion tank. You will need an assistant who will monitor the air taps.

Work rules

The liquid is drained through the drain pipe located at the lowest point. If necessary, the circuit is flushed. Filling the system is performed in the following sequence:

• Shut off the drain valve.

• Open the air bleed valves.

• Distillate is slowly poured into the expansion tank.

Tank for open type heating

Continue to fill the system with short breaks so that the air rises evenly to the surface. Filling is carried out until the moment when liquid begins to flow from the air taps. The valves are closed.

Add water to the expansion tank up to the mark. You can not fill the expander completely. When heated, the volume of liquid increases, and water over the edges of the tank will begin to pour out. Max Level coolant is 2/3 of the internal volume of the tank.

System check and maintenance

After completion of work, air is bled from the radiators. Check each valve one by one. Add the required amount of water to the tank.

When operating an open system, it must be remembered that the warm carrier is constantly in contact with air, and, accordingly, evaporates. Therefore, periodically it is worth looking into the expansion tank. When the level drops, simply top up with enough water.

Before checking, be sure to turn off the boiler and wait until it cools down to room temperature water. Do not add media to hot water. Use liquid with a temperature up to 40 o.

Video: the subtleties of filling a closed system

With care and start-up rules, you can independently cope with adding water to the old system. At the first start, the check and filling must be done by the masters who installed the heating. If you do not have the skills, do not try to fix the leak yourself or replace the coolant in the circuit. Entrust the work to a specialist - the master will select the optimal carrier, a cleaning agent that will not damage internal surfaces, and correctly fill the system.

Drain the water from the heating system, what could be easier? Connected drain hose open the faucet and pour out the water. Meanwhile, an incorrectly performed operation to drain water from the circuit is fraught with unpleasant consequences. IN autonomous systems ah, draining water is usually not difficult, unlike the contours of apartment buildings? After all, oversights due to ignorance of elementary rules lead to the creation of unpleasant situations. For example, you can fill the neighbors below with water.

For any intervention in the heating circuit, which is associated with the replacement of its elements, it is necessary to drain the water from the heating system, because it is impossible to carry out work on a system filled with water.

The main list of works requiring the removal of coolant from pipelines and batteries is as follows:

• replacement of radiators;
• elimination of leaks;
• preventive maintenance, removal of contaminants;
• coolant replacement.

Draining the coolant from the autonomous system

The process of removing water from pipelines and batteries of an autonomous heating system of a private house does not require any permission or approval. What needs to be done next and how to drain the water from the heating system is described below.

You must follow the following simple rules:

1. turn off the boiler (of any type) and let the coolant cool down;
2. close the cold water supply valve;
3. open air valves (for closed system).

In a properly installed system, there is a drain cock located at the lowest point of the system. It is usually located on the return pipeline near the boiler. A hose is attached to the drain tap, through which water is removed from the circuit. After the complete removal of water, you can begin to realize the purpose for which the coolant was drained. If installed, then it is possible to remove water from the pipelines only by connecting the compressor to the inlet pipe to displace it with air pressure.

However, situations often arise that do not require complete draining of the water. For example, replacement or repair of a separate battery. The answer to the question - how to drain water from a heating battery - is simple if the system design has been carefully thought out and installed. In order for this operation to be easy and fast, even when designing the circuit, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of cutting off the radiator from the system, and without disturbing its operation.

Let's assume that all the recommendations are met, the battery is disconnected from the system with stopcocks on it, but how to drain the water from the heating battery if it contains, especially if, a very significant amount of water. Therefore, it is necessary to install a container of sufficient volume to collect the escaping water when the radiator is disconnected from the circuit. If the homeowner does not have the necessary skills, or he does not understand how to drain the water from the heating system, then it is better to invite a heating specialist.

Draining water from heating systems of multi-storey buildings

If the apartment is located in high-rise building, such an operation is complicated by several factors. When performing work on the repair or modernization of the heating system, it is necessary to drain the water from the riser. To do this, you need to coordinate with the company that services the heating of the house. Every resident should know where to turn for heating in case of problems. The service for draining water is paid, and during the heating season it is extremely costly and hourly. Therefore, it is better to plan work on summer period when the coolant is drained, but permission to carry out work and block the riser must be obtained.

Replacing a radiator in an apartment building

If you only need to change the radiator for repairs, then every owner of the apartment is obliged to know how to properly shut off the heating battery. If the system in the house was conscientiously mounted, then there is definitely such an opportunity.

Overlapping stopcocks at the battery inlet, which stops the water supply to the radiator, but does not stop the circulation of water in the heating system, you can start replacing the battery.

Further actions depend on the presence of an outlet valve. If it is, then the water is drained through the tap, but more often it is not there, so the drain is performed when the inlet or outlet pipe is disconnected. A water tank should be placed so as not to flood the neighbors.

Knowing how to shut off the heating battery is also necessary to prevent various accidents, such as a strong leak due to the destruction of the radiator. The phone number of the organization where to contact about heating is necessary immediately in case of emergency, every owner needs to know.

If applied, then a bypass must be installed. A clear and precise understanding of how to shut off the heating battery in this case should be every apartment owner.

With such a circuit diagram, the following actions are carried out:

• the valve on the bypass opens completely;
• the shut-off valves on the battery are closed on both sides.

Having completed these operations, you can begin to remove the radiator from the system.

After replacing the battery, sealing the connections and tightening the lock nuts, the taps at the inlet and outlet of the battery are gradually opened.

At the same time, the Mayevsky valve opens and the bypass closes. Slow filling of the battery prevents water hammer, and air is bled from the battery through the Mayevsky tap until water appears. This will mean that the battery is filled with liquid, the air has been removed and the stopcocks on the battery can be fully opened.

Some heating problems that do not require draining water

Most often, heating problems are associated with the fact that water does not circulate in the heating system, for various reasons.

There are many reasons, and the most common are:

Many violations in heating systems are interconnected, for example, water gurgles in heating pipes. This phenomenon can cause discomfort and complaints - the radiators in the house are noisy. Each person differently perceives the sounds that the heating system can make. Someone thinks that the heating is murmuring, the other perceives these sounds as a buzz. TO unpleasant sounds the knocking in the radiators during the operation of the system also applies.

Noises in heating circuits are phenomena of the same order and there are a lot of reasons that cause them:

The reasons listed are the most common. In any case, if there are various unpleasant noises in the heating system that were not there before, you need to carefully examine and analyze the operation of the circuit. After establishing the localization of the malfunction, it must be eliminated. But if you can’t find and fix the problem yourself, then you need to contact the experts.

Every summer, city heating networks carry out a whole range of activities to repair and inspect the main networks. Autonomous water heating systems are no exception; on the contrary, they require even more attention. We will talk about summer maintenance of water heating in this article.

The warm season is the most suitable period to drain the coolant from the heating system, diagnose the boiler room equipment and check the piping system. Detected malfunctions are easier to eliminate at the time of downtime of the heating system than to deal with cold weather in case of equipment failure in winter.

Composition and order of preventive work

To maintain the efficiency of water heating, there is a whole range of measures. Certain types of work are carried out at different intervals.

Performed annually:

1. Preventive inspection of gas boilers.
2. Checking the functionality of automation.
3. Boiler alarm test.
4. Checking/cleaning chimneys.
5. Inspection of the heating pipeline.

Once every 3-5 years, the following may also be carried out:

1. System test high pressure.
2. Chemical flushing of the system.
3. Coolant replacement.
4. Calibration of automation devices.

It is clear that the frequency of some work is purely individual concept. For example, when using well and well water it is recommended to carry out an annual flush without chemicals, and if available plunger pump— annually test the system with increased pressure. More specific recommendations are given by equipment manufacturers and the organization that installed the system.

Drainage and replacement of water, inspection of pipelines and fittings

To avoid corrosion of steel pipelines, they are kept constantly filled with water. This rule does not apply to systems with plastic pipes However, if the boiler has a black iron heat exchanger, the water can only be drained when the valves on the supply and return pipes are closed.

Water is drained to replace it or flush the system, repair pipelines and connections. Inspection of pipelines starts from the boiler and follows in a circle, starting with the direct supply pipes. Leaks are often local and periodic, most of them are not detected in heating period. However, leaks can be detected by characteristic traces: a white or rusty coating, stains from small puddles of water, a change in the color of the winding-sealant. Even with slight traces of leakage, the spigot or connection should be repacked, or the radiator sections should be sealed.

Replacement of water in the heating system is carried out at the final stage of prevention, it is recommended to do this before the start of each new heating season no later than 30-40 days before it starts. Water is drained from the system and the deposits formed are washed out of the pipes, applying pressure to the upper point of the circuit through the direct supply pipe. The flushing liquid is drained until it is clarified, then the system is filled with water through the bottom supply pipe under slight pressure.

Boilers and automation

Maintenance of electric boilers includes inspection of heating elements, revision of start-up equipment and hauling of electrical connections. heating elements removed from the flask, remove loose scale deposits and remove the crust of plaque with a cleaning agent. The starters should be disassembled and the silver-plated contacts should be brought to a shine with a zero-sandpaper. All cable and wire connections must be loosened by 2/3 of the clamp and tightened again.

Comprehensive Maintenance the boiler can only be carried out by a specialized organization, but a lot depends on the owner. First of all, you must do:

• external inspection with the casing removed;
• processing of gas pipeline connections soapy water;
• check draft and air supply;
• visual assessment of the burner condition;
• checking the correctness of the piezo ignition.

In boilers out of warranty, it is allowed to clean the flame sensor, the air sensor and the boiler chimneys on your own. At the same time, the connections of the gas pipes must remain intact, and it is also not allowed to clean the burner yourself.

With complex maintenance, the specialist will perform all of the above actions, as well as adjust the fuel supply, set up and test the automation, and analyze the composition of the exhaust gases.

Maintenance of solid fuel boilers includes, first of all, a comprehensive cleaning of the furnace, pyrolysis chamber and chimney channels. Cleaning is carried out with a metal brush, removing carbon deposits and scale from the metal, but not cleaning the surface to a shine. This does not apply to heat exchangers: their surface must be kept as clean as possible.

Chemical flushing of the system: when is it needed and how to do it

Regularity chemical washing depends on the quality of the water used. Many do not flush the system at all; in the case of a special coolant, this is normal practice. But the use of water is associated with the formation of scale and other deposits, which reduce the efficiency of heat transfer and significantly increase fuel consumption.

The flushing of the system is carried out by means of a special pumping unit which can be temporarily rented. The system is flushed with a special solution of cleaning chemicals, which are selected according to the type of pipes, radiators and heat exchanger material in the boiler. In special cases, the boiler is washed separately.

When flushing, it is important to close the taps of all auxiliary equipment: expansion tank, pumps, bleed valves, etc. At one point, the pipeline ring must be closed, and on both sides of the gate there are nozzles for connecting flushing hoses.

Flushing is carried out in two stages: first, the system is pumped with a chemical solution for 40-60 minutes, then the chemicals are washed out clean water repeatedly.

High pressure test

Quite often, after flushing, small leaks open at pipe joints. To make sure that they are absent, the system is tested with high pressure. Usually it is 0.4-0.6 MPa. A plunger pump is used to pump an incompressible fluid into the system.

The test pressure is held for at least 20 minutes, during which time joints and welds are examined, hidden pipelines are checked by ear. If during the test the pressure has not dropped by more than 0.01 MPa, the system meets the tightness standards.

Hydraulic tests are carried out immediately after flushing with additional equipment disconnected from the system.

Preparation and replacement of the coolant

In most autonomous heating systems, tap water acts as a coolant, and this is not entirely correct. Untreated water contains a large number of salts and oxygen, which causes the deposition of scale and corrosion of the metal.

The best option for heating systems - assembled rainwater. It is possible to use water after treatment by reverse osmosis or boiling. Also on sale you can find special inhibitors that block the effects of salts and oxygen, but such products are very specific in use with certain materials of pipes, seals and radiators. In the general case, a good solution would be to install a simple filtering system on the heating feed.