Drain valve in the heating system. Draining water from the heating system

To ensure the quality of the heating system using gas boiler, it is necessary to understand the principles of its operation and follow the rules for installing and operating the boiler.

The information below will help you do everything right, following the recommendations of manufacturers and the rules for using such equipment.

Starting the heating system

Installation and start-up of the boiler must be carried out by specialists. This process consists of several stages: installation, filling the system and setting up its operation. How to fill the heating system with water:

  1. before starting filling, it is necessary to open the automatic aerator of the pump;
  2. then the filling valve opens and remains open until the pressure gauge indicates a system pressure of 1.5 bar. After that, the valve closes;
  3. then, on the batteries, the vent valves are opened to release the accumulated air in them. At the same time, the pressure in the system drops, and the filling valve is reopened, bringing the pressure in the system to 1.5 bar;
  4. if necessary, the operation is repeated until the system stops accumulating air in large quantities.

You need to know that air enters the system with water in any case, this is normal. Small amounts of air are removed from the heating system using a deaerator, which is installed on the pump. This leads to a gradual decrease in pressure. If during the operation of the boiler the pressure gauge shows a pressure below 0.5 bar, it will be necessary to add water to the system again.

How to add water to the heating system

If the water pressure has dropped to a critical level (0.5 bar or less), it must be increased by adding water. On boilers with an LCD screen, this situation can be indicated by a code that stands for “low pressure”. We carry out recharge, observing the following rules:

  1. turn off the heating boiler, and de-energize it by pulling the plug out of the socket;
  2. carefully inspect the entire heating system and the boiler itself to make sure that there are no coolant leaks (they can also cause a decrease in pressure);
  3. using the filling valve, we bring the pressure in the system to 1.5 bar in the same way as during the initial filling with water;
  4. after closing the valve, the boiler can be switched on.

The make-up valve must be closed in any case. Otherwise, the pressure in the system may rise to a critically high level. Usually this value is 3 bars. In this case, the automation will work, and excess water will be discharged using a safety valve.

How to drain water from the heating system

In some cases, for example, when leaks are detected or other situations requiring repair, it is necessary to drain the coolant from the system. This is easy to do by following these instructions:

  1. be sure to turn off the boiler and remove the plug from the outlet;
  2. open the valves on the radiator and boiler;
  3. open the drain valve. It is located at the lowest point of the heating system;
  4. drain the water until the pressure gauge reads zero.

AT double-circuit boilers it will also be necessary to drain the hot water circuit. To do this, after the boiler is completely turned off, open the supply valve cold water and one of the hot taps to ensure complete draining of the DHW system.

Even a minor repair of one of the radiators or a heating pipe is inevitably associated with a complete drain of the coolant from the heating system. After completion of work, the circuit will have to be filled with water. The question arises - how to start the heating correctly? What temperature should the water be, at what speed should the liquid be poured? How to prepare and flush the home heating network? It is better if the work is done by the masters - many factors will have to be taken into account.

Types of heating systems in private houses

Residents apartment buildings It is not necessary to engage in an independent start-up of the heating system. Before starting repairs, specialists will warn all neighbors about the work and drain the liquid from the whole riser. The filling will also be handled by services that serve communications.

In a private house, heating can be installed in accordance with one of 2 standard schemes:

  1. open.
  1. closed.

An open network, also called a gravity network, is built without installation circulation pumps, which distill the coolant within the network. The fluid circulation is carried out by natural processes: hot water rises up, where in the expansion tank installed at the highest point, the medium comes into contact with air. The cooled water falls into lower part circuit, to the boiler, and is supplied for heating.

Open systems are rarely mounted. You can meet the "classics" only in houses where old boilers are used for heating, metal pipes and cast iron radiators. The volume of coolant in these types heating networks large, respectively, energy consumption is not economical.

Closed Circuits- this is heating with the connection of pumping equipment, which provides a constant circulation of hot water inside the system. Energy consumption (gas or electricity) is minimal, because the volume of liquid is only a few tens of liters. Due to the constant movement of water, the boiler is turned on only to heat the coolant to a predetermined temperature.

Replacing the coolant: reasons and frequency

Replacing water in a closed and open heating circuit is carried out:

  • During the first start of heating.

After installation, the filling and start-up of the system is carried out

  • After seasonal drying.
  • When starting after repair work.

Regular topping up of liquid is required during operation, if there was no drain after heating season.

Why drain water from a home system

The question to which there is no definite answer is whether it is necessary to drain the circuit annually after the end of the heating season? The decision depends on the type, age and material of manufacture of the main elements - pipes and radiators, as well as on the total volume of liquid.

Each type has its own media replacement frequency

Most often drained for the summer systems with old cast iron radiators. The reason is the appearance of a leak after turning off the boilers. Old cast iron fins are screwed together with old gaskets. When there is hot water inside the batteries, the seals expand to provide a stable seal at the seams.

After the water cools, the material from which the gaskets are made naturally shrinks, and at the junction of the ribs, a leak begins. But a long downtime of old radiators without water is fraught with accelerated corrosion, rust inside the radiator and old pipes crumbles in a dry environment, and can disable the entire riser.

In closed new circuits, filling the heating system is not a costly process. But it is not recommended to completely drain the liquid every year - this is not necessary.

The frequency of replacing and topping up fluid in the heating system

How often do you need to change the fluid in the heating system? Some general rules:

  • In open-type circuits of private houses, it is enough to simply add water if the system is tight, without exposing old communications to stressful checks in the form of long dry downtime. Replacement is necessary only in case of emergency repair or preventive sealing, after flushing.

Leaks - drain and repair

  • Closed heating systems need preventive flushing and change of coolant after a few years.

The frequency of filling with new fluid depends on the characteristics of the water, the life of the synthetic coolant, and the general condition of the system. With strong airing of the extreme points, it is recommended to identify the cause - find the place of the leak and check the tightness of the heating network. Typically, water changes are carried out every few seasons.

The choice of coolant: what to fill in the home system

Before pouring new fluid into the heating system closed type, be sure to select a coolant. Only 3 options:

  1. Water.
  1. Synthetic carrier.

Antifreeze for home systems

Important! Water can be used in any home heating system, as long as part of the circuit does not come into contact with cold outside air. If the boiler room is outside the house, the pipes are laid in the ground without thermal insulation, you need to use antifreeze liquids– when the boiler is switched off, frozen water will cause the pipes to crack.

Can the system be filled with tap water

Do not try to save money by pouring into new system tap water. Tap water is “enriched” not only with chlorine, which, when heated, adversely affects the surfaces it comes into contact with. Under the influence of temperature, which can reach 60 - 80 °, plaque begins to form on the inner walls of pipes, connectors, radiators. Deposits resemble scale inside electric kettle with the same consequences: hard deposits block the internal gaps over time. As a result, part of the radiators can remain cold even when high temperature carrier.

Deposits in the pipe when using tap water

In addition to troubles with water stone, which forms a layer of plaque on the walls of pipes, the use of ordinary tap water can provoke problems that arise due to chemical reactions occurring in the carrier during heating. Aggressive impurities are not in the best way affect the condition of the coating inside the radiators, corrode seals, accelerate corrosion processes.

Conclusion - with a small amount of liquid, it makes no sense to save. It is better to pour distilled water into a closed-type heating system.

Distilled water with surfactants and additives for heating

Advantages:

  • Low cost.
  • Reduced viscosity, good fluidity.
  • No impurities.
  • No chlorine.
  • Increased boiling point.

The distillate as a heat carrier has a beneficial effect on the operation of the entire system: purified water warms up faster, the load on the pump equipment, there is no risk of clogging inside the pipes, the appearance of deposits on the inner walls.

Synthetic coolants: application features

Available for sale ready solutions and concentrates based on:

  • propylene glycol.
  • Ethylene glycol.
  • Glycerin.

Concentrate for home use

Despite not irreproachable performance ethylene glycol, it is better not to pour solutions based on it into the home heating network - the substance is dangerous to health.

When buying, you should focus not on the price, but on the degree of concentration of the active substance. Different brands coolant is diluted in a certain proportion. Before preparing the solution, be sure to read the instructions for diluting the composition.

Synthetic carriers degrade over time, so before you throw away the canister from the concentrate, find information on the expiration date and mark with a marker near the boiler or inlet pipe so that you do not forget to replace the coolant in time.

Replacing the coolant in a standard closed home heating network

The launch of the heating system in a private house with filling with water is carried out according to sophisticated technology. To work, you will have to buy or borrow special equipment and follow the instructions. If you are not sure of the integrity of the circuit, there are visible damage to the elements, be sure to call a specialist.

Preparatory stage: what is required for work

Before filling the heating system in a private house, determine the method of pouring liquid into the circuit. There are 4 options for resolving the issue:

  1. Networks equipped with valve automation are filled without third-party intervention. The principle is that when the pressure level inside the circuit drops, the valve automatically opens and filling takes place until the optimum working pressure is reached.

Heating water make-up unit

  1. Heating with modern double-circuit boiler fill from the water pipe: the systems are connected.
  1. A circuit with an expansion membrane tank is easier to fill through the pipes where the expander is located, after dismantling the tank.

  1. With the help of a special supercharger - a pump for pumping water into the heating system, which is connected to the inlet pipe.

Of the tools, you will need keys of the appropriate diameter for dismantling the tank, a pump if you plan to fill the distillate, a sealing tape for connections.
If the question is being resolved how to start heating in a private house after downtime, or if it is necessary to replace the old carrier, you will have to purchase special agent for washing.

Leak test: how to make a pressure test

The old network must be checked for tightness and no leaks. Also, a mandatory check is carried out at the first start-up of heating. Do not neglect the crimping stage, especially if the house has areas with floor heating that will be under the screed and decorative coating. Fixing a leak after the repair is completed is expensive and not easy.

Before starting the test of the old heating, all the water is drained. To drain the carrier, open the tap. You need to act slowly and carefully. Before draining, be sure to check the temperature of the water - the media must cool to 30 o. The drain valve is located at the lowest point of the circuit.

Important! Use a measuring container when draining the coolant to find out the exact volume of liquid. There will be no question about the amount of water that needs to be poured into the heating network.

After drying, the air valve is opened - the Mayevsky tap. Air will fill the circuit and equalize the pressure within the system.

Start pressing. Using a pump: connect a hose to the inlet pipe. The valve at the top is left open so that air can escape freely.

The fluid is injected until a pressure exceeding the working indicator by 1.5 times is reached. That is, if the operating pressure is 1.5 bar, when checking, it is necessary to increase the indicator to 2.0 - 2.25 bar (but not more than the maximum indicator allowed for the boiler).

Close the top valve after water begins to flow from it. Assess tightness. Check the dryness of all difficult areas:

  • Places of entry and exit of pipes from radiators.
  • Pipe connections.
  • Points at the inlet and outlet of the boiler.
  • Other threaded connections.

The liquid under high pressure is left for several hours: if during this time there is no leak, then the heating is in order.

There are two ways to create excessive pressure: liquid (water injection) and dry (air injection). The difficulty of self-checking lies in the fact that when pouring water, an unpleasant situation can arise if there is a gap in the circuit (crack or leaky connection). It is better to entrust the crimping to the master.

Do you plan to leave water as a heat carrier? Simply drain off the excess until the pressure drops to an operating value of 1.5 bar.

Flushing your home heating system

Cleaning must be done:

  • If the system is old.
  • If ordinary water was used as a coolant.

Before washing, dilute the cleaning agent with water in the proportion indicated in the instructions. Pour the product with a pump, fill the circuit with water.

Flushing is a must

Leave for several hours. During this time, the solution dissolves the sediment accumulated in the radiators, removes deposits from the inner walls.

After flushing, drain all the liquid and proceed to fill the system. Also, flushing is mandatory before filling a closed-type heating system with antifreeze.

Filling with coolant: step by step

Before proceeding with the filling of the liquid, measure required amount coolant. If synthetic solutions are used, prepare the mixture by diluting the concentrate with distillate to the desired volume.
Before connecting the pump for pumping coolant into the heating system:

  • Close the drain cock.
  • Check the air bleed valves: all taps must be closed.

  • Mayevsky's crane, located at the top point, is left open.

A pump is connected to the pipe through which the liquid will be poured. The pumps are usually equipped flexible hoses with threaded connection. The water intake hose is lowered into the container with the carrier.

Start filling the system. It is important to choose optimal power pump operation, avoiding too rapid filling. Simultaneously with the set of water, monitor the open tap. Filling is stopped after the carrier begins to flow out of the open Mayevsky tap.

Checking and preparing for launch

The last step before starting the heating is to remove excess air and check. It is necessary to bleed the air remaining in the circuit from all air valves. To do this, alternately open the taps at the extreme points, release air. The taps are closed after the water starts to flow.

When all the air is bled, check the pressure indicator. Normally, the indicators of all pressure gauges installed in the circuit should match, and be at around 1.5 - 1.8 bar. When using antifreeze, the indicator is sometimes increased to a maximum of 2 bar.

After checking the pressure, turn on the boiler. At a carrier temperature not exceeding 40 °, the system operates up to 1 hour. Then the heating is turned off. After cooling, another check is performed at a higher temperature. The carrier is heated to 60 - 70 o. In this mode, heating is left for 2 - 3 hours.

Starting an open heating system

Carry out filling open system heating is easier. No special tools needed. It is enough to define top point water in the expansion tank. You will need an assistant who will monitor the air taps.

Work rules

The liquid is drained through the drain pipe located at the lowest point. If necessary, the circuit is flushed. Filling the system is performed in the following sequence:

  • Shut off the drain valve.
  • Open the air bleed valves.
  • Distillate is slowly poured into the expansion tank.

Tank for open type heating

Continue to fill the system with short breaks so that the air rises evenly to the surface. Filling is carried out until the moment when liquid begins to flow from the air taps. The valves are closed.

Add water to the expansion tank up to the mark. You can not fill the expander completely. When heated, the volume of liquid increases, and water over the edges of the tank will begin to pour out. Max Level coolant is 2/3 of the internal volume of the tank.

System check and maintenance

After completion of work, air is bled from the radiators. Check each valve one by one. Add the required amount of water to the tank.

When operating an open system, it must be remembered that the warm carrier is constantly in contact with air, and, accordingly, evaporates. Therefore, periodically it is worth looking into the expansion tank. When the level drops, simply top up with enough water.

Before checking, be sure to turn off the boiler and wait until it cools down to room temperature water. Do not add media to hot water. Use liquid with a temperature up to 40 o.

Video: the subtleties of filling a closed system

With care and start-up rules, you can independently cope with adding water to the old system. At the first start, the check and filling must be done by the masters who installed the heating. If you do not have the skills, do not try to fix the leak yourself or replace the coolant in the circuit. Entrust the work to a specialist - the master will select the optimal carrier, a cleaning agent that will not damage internal surfaces, and correctly fill the system.

Drain the water from the heating system, what could be easier? Connected drain hose open the faucet and pour out the water. Meanwhile, an incorrectly performed operation to drain water from the circuit is fraught with unpleasant consequences. AT autonomous systems ah, draining water is usually not difficult, unlike the contours of apartment buildings? After all, oversights due to ignorance of elementary rules lead to the creation of unpleasant situations. For example, you can fill the neighbors below with water.

For any intervention in the heating circuit, which is associated with the replacement of its elements, it is necessary to drain the water from the heating system, because it is impossible to carry out work on a system filled with water.

The main list of works requiring the removal of coolant from pipelines and batteries is as follows:

  • replacement of radiators;
  • elimination of leaks;
  • preventive maintenance, removal of contaminants;
  • coolant replacement.

Draining the coolant from the autonomous system

The process of removing water from pipelines and batteries of an autonomous heating system of a private house does not require any permission or approval. What needs to be done next and how to drain the water from the heating system is described below.

You must follow the following simple rules:

  1. turn off the boiler (of any type) and let the coolant cool down;
  2. close the cold water supply valve;
  3. open air valves (for closed system).

In a properly installed system, there is a drain cock located at the lowest point of the system. It is usually located on the return pipeline near the boiler. A hose is attached to the drain tap, through which water is removed from the circuit. After the complete removal of water, you can begin to realize the purpose for which the coolant was drained. If installed, then it is possible to remove water from the pipelines only by connecting the compressor to the inlet pipe to displace it with air pressure.

However, situations often arise that do not require complete draining of the water. For example, replacement or repair of a separate battery. The answer to the question - how to drain water from a heating battery - is simple if the system design has been carefully thought out and installed. In order for this operation to be easy and fast, even when designing the circuit, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of cutting off the radiator from the system, and without disturbing its operation.

Let's assume that all the recommendations are met, the battery is disconnected from the system with stopcocks on it, but how to drain the water from the heating battery if it contains, especially if, a very significant amount of water. Therefore, it is necessary to install a container of sufficient volume to collect the escaping water when the radiator is disconnected from the circuit. If the homeowner does not have the necessary skills, or he does not understand how to drain the water from the heating system, then it is better to invite a heating specialist.

Draining water from heating systems of multi-storey buildings

If the apartment is located in high-rise building, such an operation is complicated by several factors. When performing work on the repair or modernization of the heating system, it is necessary to drain the water from the riser. To do this, you need to coordinate with the company that services the heating of the house. Every resident should know where to turn for heating in case of problems. The service for draining water is paid, and during the heating season it is extremely costly and hourly. Therefore, it is better to plan work on summer period when the coolant is drained, but permission to carry out work and block the riser must be obtained.

Replacing a radiator in an apartment building

If you only need to change the radiator for repairs, then every owner of the apartment is obliged to know how to properly shut off the heating battery. If the system in the house was conscientiously mounted, then there is definitely such an opportunity.

Overlapping stopcocks at the battery inlet, which stops the water supply to the radiator, but does not stop the circulation of water in the heating system, you can start replacing the battery.


Further actions depend on the presence of an outlet valve. If it is, then the water is drained through the tap, but more often it is not there, so the drain is performed when the inlet or outlet pipe is disconnected. A water tank should be placed so as not to flood the neighbors.

Knowing how to shut off the heating battery is also necessary to prevent various accidents, such as a strong leak due to the destruction of the radiator. The phone number of the organization where to contact about heating is necessary immediately in case of emergency, every owner needs to know.

If applied, then a bypass must be installed. A clear and precise understanding of how to shut off the heating battery in this case should be every apartment owner.

With such a circuit diagram, the following actions are carried out:

  • the valve on the bypass opens completely;
  • the shut-off valves on the battery are closed on both sides.

Having completed these operations, you can begin to remove the radiator from the system.

After replacing the battery, sealing the connections and tightening the lock nuts, the taps at the inlet and outlet of the battery are gradually opened.

At the same time, the Mayevsky valve opens and the bypass closes. Slow filling of the battery prevents water hammer, and air is bled from the battery through the Mayevsky tap until water appears. This will mean that the battery is filled with liquid, the air has been removed and the stopcocks on the battery can be fully opened.

Some heating problems that do not require draining water

Most often, heating problems are associated with the fact that water does not circulate in the heating system, for various reasons.

There are many reasons, and the most common are:


Many violations in heating systems are interconnected, for example, water gurgles in heating pipes. This phenomenon can cause discomfort and complaints - the radiators in the house are noisy. Each person differently perceives the sounds that the heating system can make. Someone thinks that the heating is murmuring, the other perceives these sounds as a buzz. To unpleasant sounds the knocking in the radiators during the operation of the system also applies.

Noises in heating circuits are phenomena of the same order and there are a lot of reasons that cause them:


The reasons listed are the most common. In any case, if various unpleasant noises appear in heating system, which did not exist before, you need to carefully examine and analyze the operation of the circuit. After establishing the localization of the malfunction, it must be eliminated. But if you can’t find and fix the problem yourself, then you need to contact the experts.

Every summer, city heating networks carry out a whole range of activities to repair and inspect the main networks. Autonomous water heating systems are no exception; on the contrary, they require even more attention. We will talk about summer maintenance of water heating in this article.

The warm season is the most suitable period to drain the coolant from the heating system, diagnose the boiler room equipment and check the piping system. Detected malfunctions are easier to eliminate at the time of downtime of the heating system than to deal with cold weather in case of equipment failure in winter.

Composition and order of preventive work

To maintain the efficiency of water heating, there is a whole range of measures. Certain types of work are carried out at different intervals.

Performed annually:

  1. Preventive inspection of gas boilers.
  2. Checking the functionality of automation.
  3. Boiler alarm test.
  4. Checking/cleaning chimneys.
  5. Inspection of the heating pipeline.

Once every 3-5 years, the following may also be carried out:

  1. System test high pressure.
  2. Chemical flushing of the system.
  3. Coolant replacement.
  4. Calibration of automation devices.

It is clear that the frequency of some work is purely individual concept. For example, when using well and well water it is recommended to carry out an annual flush without chemicals, and if available plunger pump— annually test the system with increased pressure. More specific recommendations are given by equipment manufacturers and the organization that installed the system.

Drainage and replacement of water, inspection of pipelines and fittings

To avoid corrosion of steel pipelines, they are kept constantly filled with water. This rule does not apply to systems with plastic pipes however, if the boiler has a black iron heat exchanger, the water may only be drained when the valves on the supply and return pipes are closed.

Water is drained to replace it or flush the system, repair pipelines and connections. Inspection of pipelines starts from the boiler and follows in a circle, starting with the direct supply pipes. Leaks are often local and periodic, most of them are not detected in heating period. However, leaks can be detected by characteristic traces: a white or rusty coating, stains from small puddles of water, a change in the color of the winding-sealant. Even with slight traces of leakage, the spigot or connection should be repacked, or the radiator sections should be sealed.

Replacement of water in the heating system is carried out at the final stage of prevention, it is recommended to do this before the start of each new heating season no later than 30-40 days before it starts. Water is drained from the system and the deposits formed are washed out of the pipes, applying pressure to the upper point of the circuit through the direct supply pipe. The flushing liquid is drained until it is clarified, then the system is filled with water through the bottom supply pipe under slight pressure.

Boilers and automation

Maintenance of electric boilers includes inspection of heating elements, revision of start-up equipment and hauling of electrical connections. heating elements removed from the flask, remove loose scale deposits and remove the crust of plaque with a cleaning agent. The starters should be disassembled and the silver-plated contacts should be brought to a shine with a zero-sandpaper. All cable and wire connections must be loosened by 2/3 of the clamp and tightened again.

Comprehensive Maintenance the boiler can only be carried out by a specialized organization, but a lot depends on the owner. First of all, you must do:

  • external inspection with the casing removed;
  • processing of gas pipeline connections soapy water;
  • check draft and air supply;
  • visual assessment of the burner condition;
  • checking the correctness of the piezo ignition.

In boilers out of warranty, it is allowed to clean the flame sensor, the air sensor and the boiler chimneys on your own. At the same time, the connections of the gas pipes must remain intact, and it is also not allowed to clean the burner yourself.

With complex maintenance, the specialist will perform all of the above actions, as well as adjust the fuel supply, set up and test the automation, and analyze the composition of the exhaust gases.

Maintenance of solid fuel boilers includes, first of all, a comprehensive cleaning of the furnace, pyrolysis chamber and chimney channels. Cleaning is carried out with a metal brush, removing carbon deposits and scale from the metal, but not cleaning the surface to a shine. This does not apply to heat exchangers: their surface must be kept as clean as possible.

Chemical flushing of the system: when is it needed and how to do it

Regularity chemical washing depends on the quality of the water used. Many do not flush the system at all; in the case of a special coolant, this is normal practice. But the use of water is associated with the formation of scale and other deposits, which reduce the efficiency of heat transfer and significantly increase fuel consumption.

The flushing of the system is carried out by means of a special pumping unit which can be temporarily rented. The system is flushed with a special solution of cleaning chemicals, which are selected according to the type of pipes, radiators and heat exchanger material in the boiler. In special cases, the boiler is washed separately.

When flushing, it is important to close the taps of all auxiliary equipment: expansion tank, pumps, bleed valves, etc. At one point, the pipeline ring must be closed, and on both sides of the gate there are nozzles for connecting flushing hoses.

Flushing is carried out in two stages: first, the system is pumped with a chemical solution for 40-60 minutes, then the chemicals are washed out clean water repeatedly.

High pressure test

Quite often, after flushing, small leaks open at pipe joints. To make sure that they are absent, the system is tested with high pressure. Usually it is 0.4-0.6 MPa. A plunger pump is used to pump an incompressible fluid into the system.

The test pressure is held for at least 20 minutes, during which time joints and welds are examined, hidden pipelines are checked by ear. If during the test the pressure has not dropped by more than 0.01 MPa, the system meets the tightness standards.

Hydraulic tests are carried out immediately after flushing with additional equipment disconnected from the system.

Preparation and replacement of the coolant

In most autonomous heating systems, the coolant is tap water and that's not entirely correct. Untreated water contains a large number of salts and oxygen, which causes the deposition of scale and corrosion of the metal.

The best option for heating systems - assembled rainwater. It is possible to use water after treatment by reverse osmosis or boiling. Also on sale you can find special inhibitors that block the effects of salts and oxygen, but such products are very specific in use with certain materials of pipes, seals and radiators. In the general case, a good solution would be to install a simple filtering system on the heating feed.

Drain the water from the plumbing country house required before winterizing the system. Otherwise, almost all elements of the water supply system can suffer from freezing - water supply pipes, shut-off valves, sanitary equipment, etc. Basically, the need to free the water supply system from water is needed for seasonal, that is, summer residence. In the absence of heating, the house freezes through rather quickly, no matter how thick the walls are. good example freezing in winter to a depth of 1.8 m can serve as frost forces in the Moscow region.


well known simplest way how to organize the drain of the water supply system in the country - use drain taps. A tee is placed on the pipe through which water is supplied from a well or well, a drain valve is connected to the tee. A drain cock is also installed at the lowest point of the wiring. Ideally, each branch of the water pipes in the house should have a drain valve. How is water drained?

How to properly drain water from the system?

If u on site was organized summer plumbing and the water rose from a shallow well or well, then in addition to draining the water from the internal wiring system in the house, it is necessary to pull out the pump so that the water in the water supply pipe does not freeze. Such simple systems usually there are no specialized ways for convenient draining. If water is supplied to the house from a well with a caisson, then the pump does not need to be raised from the well - just open the drain valve above the head and the water from the water supply system will return to the well. The drain cock is located between the check valve and the accumulator. In the process of draining water, all taps at the points of draw-off must be open. If the house has storage capacity- drain the water from it. Do not forget about the summer water supply located on the street - it will suffer from frost before anyone else.


For efficient draining water pipes must have a certain slope so that all the water is guaranteed to leave the system and not linger somewhere inside. A small amount of water remaining in the pipe and turning into ice can break the pipe and break the tight connection. Even a pipe made of strong steel will not be able to withstand the pressure force of the ice that forms. Water from the water heater is also discharged through a drain valve connected to the tee. The faucet and tee must have a hose nozzle up to check valve on the incoming hot water pipe. Another tee with a cock for supplying air when draining water must be installed on the pipe outlet from the heater.

If for some reason the drain taps were not installed during the installation of the water supply system, and frost is about to hit, then you can remove water from the pipes using a compressor. Getting into the pipes through the tee, compressed air capable of displacing all the water out. The compressor can be used even with a drain cock if you want to blow out the system and make sure there is not a drop of water left in it. Air purging is especially important if the internal plumbing in the house is made of hard plastic pipes, which, for the sake of design, are mounted strictly horizontally. In this case, a complete drain from the system is obviously not guaranteed and the use of a purge is mandatory.


If you live in a country house permanently, and the heating system does not use antifreeze, but ordinary water, then before a long departure in winter it will also have to be drained so that the heating pipes and radiators do not fail. Of course, for such cases, options for on-duty heating of a water supply system, heating, or a room as a whole to a temperature of several degrees above 0 C have been developed for such cases. But all these methods do not guarantee complete protection, because the boiler or other heat source is mainly controlled with the help of electronics, and in your absence, electricity can be turned off. In addition, permanently switched on in the absence of the owners of the electric heating equipment increases the risk of fire. Therefore, the best, cheapest and reliable protection antifreeze heating systems - use of antifreeze.

But if it so happened that instead of antifreeze, water is used as a coolant, then how to properly drain this water from the heating system? Turn off the boiler or close the distribution valve on the pipe from the riser. Close the valve through which water is supplied to the heating system. To drain water from the radiator system, use a hose of the required length to divert the water to a point of discharge into the sewer or outside. open drain valve on the radiator, and in the heating system, open a tap with an air valve - this will speed up the draining of water.


Where else can water be left? Do not forget to drain the water from all siphons (water seals). Water locks are in every house, they are located in curved areas drain pipe under sinks, under bathtubs, in toilet bowls. Also the water stays in the filter coarse cleaning, in the main filter unit, in the washing and dishwashers and electric water heater. Simply put, before you close the cottage for the winter season, check all the devices to which water was supplied in the summer.

All work on draining water and conservation of the individual water supply system must be carried out at a temperature not lower than + 5 C.

How to protect the system from freezing?

In addition to being able to drain water, the system must be protected - at least partially - from frost. Not only a simple drain of water can save the individual water supply system from freezing - at your service modern materials and technology. To protect water shut-off fittings from freezing of water residues, use faucets with ceramic parts and taps with rubber seals. The pipes most resistant to freezing water, as we said above, are not made of steel, but of polyethylene low pressure(PND). Flexible plastic is able to withstand some expansion internal ice and not collapse at the same time, but still it is more reliable not to check the water supply for strength and remove all water from the water supply system before the onset of cold weather.


Lay water supply pipes from the well to the residential building along the bottom of the trench dug to the depth of non-freezing. This guarantees complete protection outdoor system water supply from any frost. Pipes must be sloped towards the water source so that the return flow is unhindered. Pipes exposed to the surface - for example, a short section of pipe from a trench into a house - protect with a heating cable.

Draining water from the water supply system for the winter will not be difficult if given function will be initially incorporated into the design of external and internal water supply. A technically competent solution to this problem is possible only if the design and layout of pipes for individual water supply are entrusted to professionals.

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