How to put a gate in the country. Double-leaf portal at their summer cottage

How to make a gate in the country with your own hands? It is not necessary to make such a design an obsolete modification. It is quite possible to equip a full-fledged garden gate on your site, which will be sliding. For such work, you do not need to have experience in such buildings or use a specific tool. The only thing that will come in handy is the ability to handle a welding machine. After all, without it there is no point in building real iron gates in the country.

Gate options in the country are distinguished by shape, type and material: forged, metal, corrugated board, wooden, automatic and swing.

Today, such a fence has many modifications, ranging from ordinary gates that open by hand, and ending with automatic models. Such a design can only have sliding gates or a small gate nearby, which is convenient to use when there is no car. All these moments must be chosen individually, focusing on the characteristics of your own dacha.

Country gates: design features

The best option for giving would be to design the site with sliding gates, even if there is no car now. When it appears, it will not be necessary to demolish the old gates with one gate and build new ones with sliding doors.

Folding gates are the same everywhere. The only thing that is constantly being improved is the control mechanism. At the summer cottage, you can install rail or cantilever gates, but the latter are more versatile. If you choose the right materials and do everything according to the instructions, then this design will last more than a dozen years.

In favor of the console model, the following points should be noted:

• since the movement of the leaves goes to the sides, the usable area around the gate is preserved;
• if desired, the gate can be freely modified without dismantling it;
• if such a structure is equipped with a control panel, then its opening and closing can be done without leaving the car and without rolling it forward or backward;
• cantilever gates have an aesthetic appearance, especially if their canvas is painted with ornaments;
• The service life of such gates with proper assembly and installation is estimated at more than one dozen years.

If you equip a summer cottage with just such a model, then you can win in several ways at once. At the same time, assembling the gate of such a modification will not require too many physical and financial costs.

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What will you have to work with?

If the choice is nevertheless made in favor of cantilever gates, then it's time to think about tools and consumables. So, let's start with the toolkit:

1. Welding machine. Since the gate will be steel, depending on the desired width, the metal will have to be not only cut, but also connected. The main requirement for such a tool is to withstand 1000 A. And whether it is ordinary or inverter, it does not play a role. If there is no such equipment at home and there is no one to ask for it, then you should be prepared for the high cost of equipment, especially for inverter models. If there is no such money, then you can look for companies where you can rent a welding machine for a few days. In addition, electrodes (2.5-3 mm) will be needed for such a tool. They can be bought at the construction market.
2. Bulgarian. To create a gate and a gate, you need to choose a model that is able to work with two discs that are different in purpose. This is necessary in order to be able not only to cut the sheets, but also to process them. In general, this tool is easily replaceable with other equipment that is designed to work with metals.
3. Air compressor. This technique will help to correctly and evenly paint the metal in the desired color. And if you work with a brush, then, most likely, stains will remain on the surface of the gate.

To create a gate, you will need pliers, a drill, a measuring tape, a building level, a hammer, a riveter and goggles to protect your eyes.

After the tools are prepared, you need to purchase consumables:

1. To create a frame, you need to purchase a profile pipe measuring 60x40x2 mm. But this size is not fundamental, these parameters can be deviated from.
2. To make the sheathing, it is best to choose corrugated board. Although, if desired, you can pay attention to other metals and even wood with polyester.
3. To process the skin, you will need a primer for metal (or wood) and the appropriate paint.
4. Since the gate will be of a cantilever type, you will have to purchase cantilever equipment - beams, top and end rollers, a catcher and additional rollers (2 pcs.).

After everything is in hand, you can begin planning the structure.

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How to make and install a gate to the country house?

You need to start planning with an inspection of the site. This will help you choose the right gate movement. The next step is to prepare the drawings. After these moments are finished, it is necessary to divide the working material into 2 parts: the first for creating jumpers, and the second for making the main gate.

The work itself will look like this:

1. According to the required dimensions, metal elements are cut into blanks. It is very important when working with jumpers to remember the recommended angle value.
2. Further, using a welding machine, all metal elements are connected into one. Thus, a frame should be obtained, which must be sanded with a grinder.

The surface is degreased with acetone or gasoline so that the primer and paint are well laid down and fixed. If this stage is omitted, then the gate will quickly lose its visual appeal due to peeling paint. Especially if the cottage is located in a hot region and direct sunlight will fall on the surface of the structure.

Once the surface treatment is completed, the gate and frame are primed and then painted. While the paint dries, it is better to cover the structure with something so that dust and small debris do not settle on the surface.

While the product is drying, according to the plan, markings are made for the pillars, and they are concreted. Next, blocks are fixed to the concrete base with screws and hinges and the frame is mounted. Then sheets of corrugated board are attached to the finished frame.

It is very important that the base is carefully cemented, since metal is far from being a light material, which means that there is a risk that the sliding gate may not only not open, but also tilt. Therefore, for pillars it is necessary to choose high-quality solutions.

When erecting fences around your land or when building a garage, the question will definitely arise how to make a gate with your own hands. Before purchasing materials and getting down to work, it is necessary to decide which of the existing types of gates is best suited for installation in a particular case. Don't miscalculate in in all the nuances in advance, and choosing not the best design, you can doom yourself to a completely unnecessary laborious process of clearing the territory for their installation.

That is why you need to start by studying the information and features of their design.

Today, there are three main types of gates - these are retractable, swing and up-and-over. All of them seriously differ from each other constructively, so it is worth considering each type separately.

swing gate

The simplest scheme in execution - swing gates

Swing gates with a gate built into them or installed next to them are a traditional scheme that is most often used in private homes. It is based on pillars, two of which are set to the width of the gate, and the third, if necessary, determines the width of the gate if it is arranged next to the gate.

Gate leaves and wickets in this design are mounted on hinges welded to the support posts. They can be fixed to the outside of the supports or the inside. It will depend on this and on the hinge system in which direction the gate leaves will open - inward or outward.

Swing gate leaves are most often metal frames welded from a corner or a profile pipe, which can then be sheathed with different materials - thin metal sheets, corrugated board or wood.

The hinged version of the gate can also be made entirely of wood. In this case, boards are fixed to a reinforced frame made of timber, located on the inside of the wings.

In the manufacture of sashes, it is important to remember that they should not be too heavy, so as not to put a large load on the supporting posts and hinges. The nodes and details of the suspension themselves in size and strength must correspond to the weight of the valves.

A closing device is installed on the gate leaf - it can be a deadbolt or hinges for a lock, and sometimes a powerful latch. When closing the gate, the leaves in the lower part, in the middle of the entrance width, rest against the installed limiter, and when they are wide open, they can be fixed with spring clips.

The disadvantages of this design include the possible tilt of the supporting pillars and sagging of the wings, but this can only happen if the installation technology is violated or the weight from the leaves is incorrectly calculated. Therefore, it is necessary to properly deepen the foundation of the supports, not to use too heavy material for the canvases and to install the hinges corresponding to them in size.

The advantage of swing gates can be called the relative compactness of their placement. The design does not require clearing additional space along the fence, as it will be necessary to do for other types.

Swing gate installation

If swing gates are of moderate weight, for example, if they are made of corrugated board, then metal poles made of pipes with a diameter of 80 ÷ 100 mm or a profiled pipe with the same side size of its square section are well suited for them. Such supports will quite cope with their task. However, more massive pillars will do if they are easier to find.

Pillars-supports for gates are installed in two ways - by hammering and concreting.

• Pillars are usually hammered to a depth of 1.2–1.3 m. This method has many advantages, the main of which are sufficient reliability and speed of work.

Installation is as follows:

- a hole of the required diameter is drilled, approximately half the planned depth of the pillars.

- now the pillars must be fixed to or to stationary buildings located in the yard;

- after that, loops are welded to the posts, to the places previously marked by level;

- the assembled sashes are hung on the welded hinges, the correctness of their convergence in the center is checked.

• Concreting of pillars for installing gates gives increased rigidity and stability of the structure. Such supports will be required for wide or heavy sashes.

This method of installation is carried out without reinforcement or with the use of a reinforcing cup. Work is carried out in stages:

- first, a hole is drilled with a diameter of not less than 200-250 mm and a depth of 1.5-1.9 m. The exact size of the hole will depend on the section of the post.

- layers of sand and gravel are poured into the bottom of the pit and carefully compacted. Each of the layers should be about 100 mm;

- then a pole is installed in the pit, on a sand and gravel cushion;

- concrete is poured around it, and until the mortar has hardened, the column is set strictly vertically, fixed in this position with the help of props.

• If a reinforcing structure is used to fix the post, then the installation is carried out in the same way as without reinforcement, until the cushion is rammed for the installation of the post.

On the pillow, in the drilled hole, the so-called reinforcing glass is first laid, and a pole is inserted into it. Then concrete is poured into the hole. In this case, supports for the pole may not even be needed, since the reinforcing structure will hold it.

After the concrete has completely hardened and gained due strength, massive loops are marked and welded on the pillars. We must not forget about leaving gaps that will allow the doors to open and close freely, even with a possible slight tilt of the pillars due to ground movement during snowmelt or long rains.

To avoid such deformations of the structure, it is possible to additionally fasten the pillars together with a beam welded to the lower parts of the pillars (it can be sunk into the ground). The frame will be even more rigid if equip it with an upper jumper, but in this case it will restrict the passage for trucks or a minibus.

Video: device and installation procedure for swing gates

Swing gate prices

swing gate

sliding gate

Sliding gates are subdivided into several subspecies, and from them you can choose the one suitable for certain conditions. But almost each of them will require free space along. Therefore, you may have to work harder to make room for the free movement of the movable sash when it is opened.

Sliding gates are cantilevered, suspended and retractable, which run along a rail or other metal profile (channel, I-beam, etc.).

Video: types of sliding gates

1. The hanging version is not very popular for installation in the private sector, since the entrance height is limited by the profile installed on top, on which the door leaf is suspended and moves along it.

2. Sliding gates that run along a rail installed in the opening and along the wall are also not a very popular option, especially in snowy and cold regions. The gate will move freely along the rail if it is cleared of ice and various debris, but in winter, with snow drifts or icing, the leaf will not be able to open and close without prior clearing. This version of the gate is rather good for the southern regions, where snow does not lie for a long time and there are no severe frosts.

This is the only, but very important design flaw. Otherwise, it is very convenient in that it does not require a vast territory for opening and closing.

On the rack from the side into which the sash will open, rollers and brackets holding the canvas are installed in the upper part.

Rollers are also installed at the bottom of the mobile gate leaf, along which it moves along a rail or profile mounted on the surface of the earth.

3. Console - the most convenient option of all types of sliding gates, especially since they have several different designs, from which you can choose the best one.

Such gates are rigidly fixed on the beam, which, moving in the cantilever assembly, moves the leaf leaf along with it.

Cantilever gates are more complex in design, but they work best in snowy winters, since their leaf never touches the ground. Another positive quality of this species can be considered that it does not have a height limiter, i.e. The area can be accessed by both cars and trucks. In the design of cantilever gates, powerful pillars-supports are installed not on two sides, but only on one side - it is in this direction that the sash will move when the passage is opened.

The cantilever beam can be located in three different positions - top, middle and bottom.

• by the most widespread an option is the location of the movable beam in the middle of the door leaf. Due to its location, it enhances the rigidity of the structure. The console mechanism with guide rollers is located at a sufficient height so that it is not covered with snow, which means that the gate will be in working condition at any time of the year.

• Cantilever gates with a movable beam installed at the bottom of the leaf are more vulnerable in winter and will require constant maintenance in the form of clearing from snow drifts and icing. Otherwise, this is also a convenient option, since the canvas does not come into contact with the ground, and it does not need to install a guide rail for it.

• In the third case, the beam passes along the upper part of the canvas and will always be safe from snow blockages, water, and debris. But this version of the cantilever gate requires a particularly rigid reinforcement of the frame and leaf, otherwise it may deform in the lower part.

Cantilever gates are quite affordable for manufacturing on their own, but only if the owner has certain skills in such work. understands assembly drawings, has basic knowledge in physics and mechanics. With maximum effort, you can make such a gate that will be impossible to distinguish from factory products.

Any cantilever gate can be opened if equipped with an electric drive and an electronic remote control system. This will allow the owner, without leaving the car, using the key fob to open the passage.

Installation of sliding cantilever gates

Installing sliding or sliding gates is a much more complex undertaking than installing a swing version.

On the sides of the passage, when arranging this type of gate, as a rule, brick pillars are installed on which rollers, supporting brackets and catchers will be mounted.

The main load always falls on the channel, which is installed on on the a securely arranged foundation on the side of the gate where the leaf will be attached (if the console is located at the bottom) or on metal supports if the console is located in the center of the dense gate or at the top.

• The foundation for the installation of the channel can be solid or consist of 2-3 pillars. The second option is more economical. A pit is dug for the foundation - it can consist of one pit or two or three for a columnar type. The depth should be from 1.2 to 1.5 m, width - 40 ÷ 50 cm, and length - at least 1.5 m.
• Further, two pillows of sand and gravel are arranged in the pit, each 10 cm thick.
• Then, a formwork is installed in the pit and a waterproofing material is laid in it - roofing material or a dense plastic film.
• A reinforcing structure is fixed in the formwork, and then a ready-made concrete solution is poured with a strength grade of at least M-300
• A channel with fittings welded to its shelves is installed over the filled surface. The channel is pressed into the concrete with the shelves down until they are completely immersed. After the final hardening of the concrete, a reliable metal platform should be obtained. The gate can be installed no earlier than a month after pouring the foundation.
• The supporting frame is being made. For it, you need a metal corner or a square pipe with a cross section of 60 × 40 mm.
• Additional cross members are welded to the frame of the carcass, giving the required rigidity to the structure. At the location of the console (in this case, from below), a guide cantilever beam must be welded to the frame, with the help of which the gate will move along the rollers.
• Welded seams of the structure must be carefully cleaned of slag. The entire supporting frame must be primed and covered with paint for metal, which will keep it from corrosion.
• It is fixed, sheet metal or boards, depending on the chosen design of the door leaf.
• When the structure is ready, and the foundation with the installed cantilever channel has fully gained strength, you can proceed to the installation of the components and parts necessary to move the gate.

• Cantilever blocks equipped with rollers are installed on the finished foundation with a channel.
• Then the gates are rolled up on them, aligned strictly according to the level, and after that the blocks are welded to the channel.
• Then, the top and end rollers are installed and fixed.
• The lower and upper catchers are fixed to the opposite support post. They must be accurately calculated according to the location of the rolling rollers installed on the door leaf.
• Further, if planned, an electric drive is installed, but the gate may well open manually.

Video instruction for installation of cantilever sliding gates

As mentioned above, the cantilever beam can be installed not only from below, but also in the middle or at the top of the door leaf.

In the manufacture and assembly of this type of gate, accurate calculation of all parameters and careful observance of dimensions are especially important, since any error can cause deformation of the structure.

sliding gate prices

Sliding gates

Overhead gate

This type of gate is well suited for equipping a garage with them. They are not suitable for driving into the yard, as they will limit the height. Such gates should be easy to close and open by lifting and sliding the leaf to a horizontal position up, under the garage ceiling.

Up-and-over doors are the perfect solution for your garage.

During opening or closing, the lower part of the sash protrudes slightly forward, outside the garage, That's why By installing a similar type of gate, you need to calculate how close you can fit the car so that it does not interfere with the opening process.

The canvas is made of a metal frame, which is sheathed, most often, with metal sheets, wood or composite impact-resistant materials. The positive qualities of this type of gate are reliability and compactness in the open position, in contrast to options with two swing leaves.

To make this design yourself, you must have drawings with all the necessary parameters.

• To install the gate, you will need to make not only a frame for closing the passage, but also another one on which the gate will be mounted. Sometimes it is framed by the entrance to the garage, but more often additional guides are added, along which, when the gate is opened, rollers mounted on the canvas will roll. They also perform the function of a device that supports the canvas from above in an open position.

• In this case, inside the garage, the frame will be L-shaped on both sides of the entrance. Its dimensions must provide the necessary space for the passage of the door leaf between the ceiling and additional guides.
• On the canvas on both sides, top and bottom, rollers are installed that will walk along the guides when moving the gate.
• On both sides to the frame installed in the opening, two levers are mounted that will lift the canvas when opened. Shock absorbers are required - they will soften the blow when closing. The levers are connected to springs that are adjusted to the desired force - they should not be overtightened or loose, but at the same time, the sash should tightly close the entrance opening.

• The supporting stationary frame must be securely fastened to the opening with anchors, as it will be subjected to significant stress all the time.
• Further, when the entire structure is mounted, it is possible to equip the gate with fittings and fix additional elements.

If you plan to install an electric drive, then this process is carried out last, and it is better to entrust this work to specialists. An electric opening system is a rather expensive pleasure, so it’s better not to risk it if you don’t have the skill in installing and debugging such equipment.

Video: an example of hand-made up-and-over doors

Prices for up-and-over gates

Overhead gate

Having carefully studied the instructions and drawings, having prepared all the necessary materials, and also having sufficiently high work skills, you can assemble any design from the presented ones yourself. But it is better if the work is done together with a knowledgeable master - then it will go much faster and better.

You will need

• - pipe Ø100 mm;
• - corner 100x100 mm;
• - angle grinder ("Bulgarian");
• - welding machine;
• - cement;
• - sand;
• - edged board and timber for formwork;
• - carpentry tool;
• - shovel and bayonet shovels.

Instruction

Cut out the blanks for the gate. For racks, use a pipe Ø100 mm or a corner 100x100 mm. Their length is determined by the sum of the height of the gate and the length of the ends embedded in the ground (0.8-1 m). With a planned gate height of 2 m, the length of the blanks should be 2.8-3 m.
Make a jumper connecting the racks from a 100x100 mm corner. Its length should be equal to the width of the gate. For standard gates, it is assumed to be 3 m. If a pipe is used as posts, cut off one corner flange on both sides at an angle of 30 ° and give its edge a concave shape. This is done so that the edges of the corner fit well against the uprights when they are welded.

Assemble the gate frame from the blanks on the ground, choosing a more even place for this. It should look like the letter "H" - two racks and a jumper laid between them at a distance of 2 m from their top (or 0.8-1 m from the bottom). In this case, two conditions must be ensured: the parallelism of the racks between themselves and the perpendicularity of the jumper with respect to the racks.

Weld the jumper to the uprights. Both shelves of the corners must be securely welded with a continuous seam. Weld any pieces of metal to the jumper in two or three places, pointing them down. They will play the role of reinforcement, firmly connecting the jumper to the foundation.

Dig a trench for pouring the foundation. Its width should be 350-400 mm, length - 3.5 meters (for a 3-meter gate). The required depth of the trench is determined taking into account the depth of soil freezing, its type, and the level of groundwater. For simplicity, you can take it equal to the depth of soil freezing in your area, which can be found on construction sites.

Make wooden boards from edged boards and assemble formwork from them. Its dimensions in plan should be 0.3x3.3 m. It is desirable to make the walls of the formwork slightly expanding towards the bottom - in order to avoid the expulsion effect of the soil on the foundation.

Install the gate into the formwork so that the lintel is flush with the ground and the posts are vertical. To do this, place supports made of stones or metal under the racks or lintel and secure the racks on both sides with stops. Lay reinforcement from any type of metal in the formwork - wire, metal profile scraps, etc.

Prepare a sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1:4 (cement:sand) and pour it into the formwork. To use less mortar, fill the formwork with stones and broken bricks. During pouring, tamp the solution with a shovel. The surface of the poured foundation should be flush with the ground and the lintel. Before hanging the gate itself, give the solution time to harden - at least a week.

Acquaintance with the house begins with the gate. In fact, this is the business card of the owners. Therefore, their appearance should by definition be solid and beautiful. But, at the same time, their main purpose is to ensure the safety and security of private country houses and cottages.

How to connect these two destinations together? How to make swing gates for summer cottages beautiful, reliable and functional. What types of swing gates are there and which is better to choose. How to make and install. About all this detailed step-by-step instructions in our article.

Before proceeding to the description of the gate device process, we will focus on their pros and cons.

Benefits of swing gates:

• simple design;
• relatively low price;
• undemanding in maintenance;
• long service life;
• strength;
• ease of operation;
• unlimited choice of design solutions and shapes;
• no need for concreting the site. For example, under videos for;
• the ability to install automation.

Disadvantages:

• the need to provide quite a lot of space for opening and closing;
• the need to take into account the wind load in the region.

Simple arithmetic shows that swing gates have much more advantages. And the shortcomings are eliminated or not critical. The long history of their existence only confirms the reliability of the system.

Swing gate design

Whatever materials appear, no matter how the fashion for finishing the gate changes, the basic principle of their arrangement remains unchanged. Structural device:

• poles (racks). In fact, they are not gates, but they are supports for their fastening;

• swing gate frame. In its manufacture, wood or metal can be used. The latter is more popular because gives the frame greater rigidity;

• finishing (facing) material for sheathing;

• loops;

• latches and locks.

So, we have decided what a swing gate is and what features they differ in.

Manufacturing of swing gates - tools and materials

After making sure that we can make them with our own hands, we will begin construction.

The required tool for the manufacture of swing gates and consumables for it.

Tool

Mandatory for the manufacture of the frame and the arrangement of racks:

• Bulgarian. Designed for cutting and grinding metal blanks;
• cutting discs;
• grinding discs;
• welding machine;
• electrodes;
• roulette;
• building level;
• corner;
• a hammer;
• shovel;
• Master OK.

Auxiliary:

• compressor, spray gun or brushes for painting racks and / or gates;
• drill. If necessary for fastening the gate trim;
• riveter, as well as rivets to it.

Material

• pipe for making a frame. It is preferable to use a profile pipe 60x40x1.5. Suitable and 40x20x1.5. The final choice depends on the finishing material and taking into account the wind load;

• pipe for the manufacture of racks. Here you should also be guided by the weight of the finished gate.

1. gate weight within 150 kg. and below. Suitable pipe 80x80x4;
2. gate weight from 150 kg to 300 kg. Pipe - 10x100x5;
3. gate weight exceeds 300 kg. Pipe -140x104x5.

Tip: Racks can be brick, concrete, or even wood. In any case, correlate the properties of the material with the expected load.

• hinges for swing gates. They can be adjustable or unregulated. Must be made of quality material and have the ability to withstand a significant load;

• locks. They can be mechanical or electromechanical. The choice is up to you;

• dye. Needed for painting racks and / or sheathing;

• sheathing. There is also complete freedom of choice. The main thing is that it is to your liking and affordable;

• swing gate automation. To be able to make automatic gates. You can not install at all or install later. But, if its installation is supposed, albeit in the distant future, it is better to make the swing gate frame more durable.

How to make swing gates with your own hands

Do not think that homemade is a synonym for the words "ugly" and "unreliable". Quite the opposite - self-made swing gates - mean creativity, individuality and concern for one's own safety.

The sequence of work.

1. stage - installation of racks for hanging gates.
2. stage - the manufacture of swing gates.

Stages, of course, can be changed. But the installed racks (pillars for swing gates) must withstand at least a week. In order not to prolong the pleasure, the waiting time can be taken by welding the gate.

Stage 1 - installation of swing gate pillars

As a rack can be used:

• profile pipe. The choice of pipe section is justified above in the "materials" section;

• concrete pillar - purchased or poured on site;

• brick or natural stone. The latter is used more for cladding due to its non-standard dimensions;

• wooden beam (100x100).

Ways to install poles / racks:

The pipe can be hammered to a depth of about one and a half meters

This method of installation is the fastest, most profitable (no costs for concrete), it is possible to replace the rack. The main thing when arranging pillars with this method is to maintain the level. This will prevent the gate from tilting.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Strengthen the support post with concrete (concrete), i.e. to make, a kind of foundation for the foundation of the gate.

We will describe the second one, because the first requires brute force and suitable soil.

Gate post installation

Execution sequence:

1. Dig or drill a pit with an earthen drill at least 1 meter deep. The diameter of the drill should be at least 200 mm, with a pipe section of 100x100.

   The depth depends on the depth of soil freezing in the installation area. The width of the sides is determined by the quality of the soil and the dimensions of the supports (pipe, wood, concrete).

2. We arrange a sand-gravel pillow under concrete. Its height is 150-200 mm. The purpose is to prevent the post from deepening and to create a foundation for concreting.
3. We install the pillar and level it using the building level.
4. Preparing the concrete and pouring the rack.

Concrete pillars must withstand within 7 days, no less. The concrete must be well cured. During the hardening of the concrete, periodically moisten it with water. Of course, cracks in such a small area are not as dangerous as, for example, cracks in the foundation of a house. But it's better to avoid them.

Tip: If you use not a pipe, but brick or concrete, the depth of the recess will also be 1 m.

For reliability, the racks need to be reinforced. And also, in advance, bring out two or three reinforcing mortgages for fastening the hinges.

Stage 2 - production of swing gates

The sequence of an independent device.

Installation location and appearance of swing gates

This is the starting point from which all work begins. Often the installation location has a direct impact on the appearance of the structure.

For example, you need to put a gate in the backyard, at the entrance to the garden, or fence off the future construction site. Then both the material and the design will be as simplified as possible.

If it will be a front gate or a garage, then the costs will be higher.

Swing gate dimensions

Ideally, the gate is made together with the fence. However, if you have, for example, a hedge or you are expanding the driveway and need a new gate, you should accurately measure the dimensions.

Tip: Try to make swing gates in the same stylistic decision as the fence.

It is important to measure the height and width of the opening under the gate. When measuring the height, keep in mind that a technical clearance is usually left at the bottom of the gate. Its value depends on the coverage of access roads. If you have asphalt, tile or concrete in the gate area, then 5-7 cm of clearance is enough. If the soil is not strengthened (grass grows), and the surface is not even - then about 10 cm. A technical clearance is also needed in order to reduce the wind load, if the future gate is solid, without ventilation gaps.

It is also necessary to provide for the presence of a sufficient gap between the wings. This will level out the slight displacement of the racks.

swing gate drawing

Having at your disposal a drawing and a scheme for the design of swing gates, it is easy to calculate the amount of material needed.

Try to make such a frame for the gate so that its dimensions correspond to the dimensions of the intended finishing material. So you will facilitate the installation process and avoid connecting seams on the front surface of the gate. For example, the standard width of PS-10 corrugated board is 1,100 mm.

Advice. When calculating, use the working, and not the total width of the finishing material.

The figure shows a diagram of a frame for swing gates, which we will take as a basis.

Using this drawing as a basis, you can calculate the amount of material, attachment points and parameters of pipes and finishing materials.

In our example, the frame is a welded structure. It will be made of a pipe or a metal profile. But you can also use wood. If, for example, you have a completely wooden gate.

The figure shows that the frame has a square appearance and internal jumpers. They are needed to give the frame rigidity.

Please note that this diagram is for swing gates that are not equipped with a wicket. The gate is located separately. If you decide to save space and cut the gate into the gate - consider this need when creating a frame drawing for swing gates.

Swing gate calculation

For the frame shown in the diagram, you will need the following material:

• profile pipe 60x40 - 22 meters - for the perimeter of the frame and lintels. This pipe will be attached to the racks and hold the entire structure;

• profile pipe 40x20 - 15 meters - for the inner frame (perimeter reinforcement). Namely, the material of the gate sheathing will be attached to this pipe.

Usually pipes are sold by the meter, so it's best to immediately take the sizes that you need. Among other things, this will make shipping easier for you.

Pipe cutting and grinding

At this stage, the frame components are manufactured. Pipes are cut to the desired length and polished.

Grinding is needed in order to clean the pipes from rust. If the metal is lubricated with oil, it must be removed using a solvent (most often gasoline).

Swing gate welding

When carrying out welding work, remember melted safety precautions. It is better when this type of work is performed by a specialist. So the quality of welded joints will be higher. Yes, and the appearance is more beautiful.

When welding, it is important to make joints in such a way as to protect the pipe from water leakage. Otherwise, water or snow will get into it. In winter, it will freeze, and with warming it will begin to expand. This will inevitably lead to expansion of the pipe walls. And, as a result, to the deformation of the entire structure.

In our example, the inner pipes are welded in the form of squares. But this is of no fundamental importance.

The step of welding fastening of the outer and inner frame (pipes 60x40 and pipes 40x20) is 250-300 mm. Follow the checkerboard pattern. So pipes, during thermal expansion, will not tear the weld.

Some drawings of frames for swing gates are given below.

The more stiffeners, the more wind load your gate can withstand.

If you sew up the fence with a finishing material, then weld the pipe in the middle of the outer one. So, it is easier to designate the place of attachment of the skin.

Primer

It does not matter what material was used to make the frame - metal or wood - it must be primed. The primer will extend the life of the paintwork and make the application process more enjoyable.

Welding points are especially carefully primed.

Latch and hinges for swing gates

The hinges are welded to the frame and to the uprights (pillars). If the rack is made of brick, and the reinforcement was not provided, then you must first attach the channel to the brick with a dowel, and then weld the loop.

Varieties of loops are shown in the photo

The valve mechanism is chosen the one that you prefer. The most common and easy to manufacture is the one shown in the photo.

Swing gate finishing

• Frame painting

The frame must first be cleaned of dust. Any paint is suitable for coloring. It is better to apply paint with a spray gun, so it will lie more evenly, and the work will go faster. You can also use a brush. In this case, the process will be somewhat delayed, and the paint consumption will be less.

It is better to apply paint in several layers.

• Fastening of finishing material

Sheathing of the gate is possible before and after installation of the frame on the posts. To do this, we attach the skin to the inner pipe (40x20, in our example). The method of fastening and fasteners depends on the finishing material.

How to sheathe swing gates

The following materials are used:

Decking

Advantages - low price, wide range of colors, light weight. The disadvantages include: the complexity of replacement (it is difficult to choose a color, because the sheet burns out slightly, plus, the shade depends on the batch and manufacturer). And also, the possibility of damage during installation and high windage.

Wood

Advantages - availability, beautiful appearance of natural wood, ease of replacement. Disadvantages - demanding care. Over time, the wood can dry out, leading to cracks.

A metal sheet

The advantage is durability. The disadvantage is significant weight.

Forging

Advantages - unlimited designs. The disadvantage is that only specialists can make forged gates with their own hands.

steel mesh

Advantage - low cost, high speed, low weight. The disadvantage is the low aesthetic properties, the transparency of the fence makes the entire territory of the yard available for viewing.

Rabitz

The characteristics are the same. More suitable for installation of technical gates.

Combined

The basis of such a combination is most often forged, which allows you to give the gate any shape. And they are closed by sheathing from the inside with wood, metal, corrugated board or polycarbonate. Examples of such gates in the photo

Swing gate installation

So, the racks are ready, the frame is welded, the finishing material is fixed. It's time to hang the gate.

Conclusion

We hope you are convinced that installing a swing gate with your own hands is a simple task. In the presence of material and tools - the installation of the gate will not take more than a week. From the installation of the pillars, to the installation of the gate. And if you consider that it takes 7 days for the concreted pillars to settle, then generally a day. I wish you success!

Swing gates - photos of different device options

As you know, almost every suburban area has fences (fence, wall around) that are simply necessary for a safe and comfortable stay. Each of the fences (depending on needs) must have an entrance in the form of a gate or an entrance, for which a variety of gates are mounted.

Gates for giving, in contrast to the usual door entrance, can vary in:

1. Manufacturing material.

Usually, metals or wood are used for their implementation.

metal gate

1. Overall dimensions.

For a clear understanding of the principles of installing the gate, it is necessary to determine their type. According to the standard, the gate is made in the size of 2 m 60 cm. If necessary, the width of the entrance can be increased to 3 m 50 cm.

1. Opening method:

• Swing (open like shutters in the house).
• Retractable - do not require space (drive off to the side along the fence). The ideal solution if the suburban area is small.
• Lifting - entry is carried out by manually or mechanically lifting the gate up.
• Gate for giving with a gate (have an additional doorway).

Each of the types has some features, for example, lifting and sliding gates do not require much space to open (this is very convenient in winter, when snow can interfere with the normal movement of the gate). In this regard, swing gates are quite impractical.

This look is very easy to install. Of course, it, like any gate, has some drawbacks, for example, when used in winter, snow will have to be discarded before opening. On the other hand, if you decide to install the gate yourself, this is the best option.

This is the oldest type of gate and has not changed at all since then. This design is used everywhere, especially in the private sector. Its advantage over other types is the absence of a foundation required for the construction of sliding gates and load-bearing beams used in the lifting version.

The swing version consists of two iron or wooden doors, of arbitrary dimensions, suspended on poles or a brick support, with ordinary large-sized hinges. They open, depending on the design of the hinges, inward or outward. But most often, there are options with plowing in both directions (outward and inward).

As mentioned above, the choice of material is small (wood, metal) and depends on the owner or customer. For example, from metals, most often they buy steel or corrugated board. Wooden sashes can be made of any breed, but larch is best, because it is the least susceptible to decay.

Swing sashes are performed in two versions:

1. Deaf - the opening is completely closed.

Solid sewing (with the selected material) is made after the frame is completed. For example, they are sewn with galvanized iron or corrugated board of at least 0.7 mm.

1. Transparent - the stitching is not continuous.

A frame with stiffeners is made from round or shaped rectangular pipes. The stitching is carried out according to the design decision, previously approved by the customer. It can be in the form of a pattern or simply made in the form of verticals.

Installation, for example, of a metal version is quite simple and includes several sequential operations:

1. First you need to prepare the frame (frame). It should include two vertical and three horizontal profiles.

To do this, rolled metal (pipes, profiles, squares) is cut (according to the prepared drawing) with a grinder. The dimensions of the rental depend on the dimensions of the gate. For example, when assembling a frame 3X2 m, corners or a profile 40X40-60X60 mm are suitable

1. Then the profiles are connected by a welding machine or bolts.

The profiles must be securely fixed to avoid frame defects; for greater strength, iron triangles can be used, which are welded in the corners or braces (metal beams) welded diagonally across the gate.

1. The final stage is plating.

Connections are made by welding, self-tapping screws or bolts. Sheathe, for convenience, in the direction in one direction, for example, to the right - if you are right-handed, and in the opposite direction - if you are left-handed. If you used corrugated board, then screw the screws into the recesses.

After completing all the work, the hinges are welded. All welding joints are cleaned and painted.

Drawing of swing metal gates

The frame of a wooden gate is simply assembled on nails or self-tapping screws. Sheathe it with anything, and screw the loops at the end. The braces are required in this case as well.

Support poles can be made of bricks, logs or pipes (metal). Pole holes are dug about 1.8 m deep and 30-50 cm wide. They fall asleep 20-30 cm with sand and gravel

Pillars of logs or pipes are inserted into the pit, fixed and poured with concrete so that the mortar is level with the ground.

The main criterion that must be followed is to concrete the supports at a depth of at least 100 cm (this is the amount of soil freezing, overcoming this threshold, you guarantee the necessary strength and durability of future gates.

The preparation of the cement mortar will not be difficult (mix 2 buckets of sand, 3 buckets of gravel, and 10 kg of cement, pouring water until the desired consistency is reached).

Sliding gates are installed if you are not satisfied with conventional swing gates, or to save space. After all, they resemble a compartment (its doors). Rolling back along the wall, fence, premises, hangar, they practically do not go beyond its dimensions.

Such gates are very popular, but expensive. If you compare them with other systems, installing sliding gates with your own hands always requires certain skills and some training. The person who performs the installation must have relevant experience.

sliding gate

The general frame of such gates is also made of profiles, it is distinguished by the presence of a guide welded to the lower profile. The guide is needed in order to move along the rollers that are welded to the channel and poles (rollers are welded to the poles to support the gate).

In addition to the posts, special catching elements are also attached to reduce the collision force when opening and closing the gate.

Sliding gate scheme

They can be opened (rolled back) by hand, but if you want to automate the gate, then use an electric motor to control it. Additionally, install a movement mechanism (rack with teeth or chain drive).

The installation of rollback systems cannot be performed without purchasing a ready-made installation package, which includes:

• load-bearing beam (U-shaped);
• plugs;
• 2 main rollers;
• end roller;
• trolleys;
• traps;
• limiters.

You can purchase large, medium or small packages yourself to install sliding gates.
Sets of components (mounting packages) are selected based on the weight and dimensions of the cantilever-type structure.

Mounting package and location of components

Two roller supports are strengthened on a channel blank prepared in advance. The U-shaped carrier is welded (screwed) from the bottom of the frame so that roller carts are inside it. This will ensure long-term operation and minimal contamination of the mechanism.

Roller supports are fixed to the foundation with bolts or plates. This will allow them to move freely, withstanding the weight of the gate.

Do-it-yourself installation of sliding gates is performed as follows:

1. We dig a trench under the foundation with a depth of 1.7-3 m, a width of 40-50 cm. The length of our concrete foundation should be 1/2 the width of the passage.
2. Next, we make a frame of reinforcement. We take reinforcement with a caliber d12, channel No. 18 and weld the details. The length of the channel is also equal to 1/2 of the width of the opening. Reinforcement bars must lie below the freezing level of the soil.
3. We cover the bottom of the trench for the base of the gate with sand and ram it.
4. Next, we lower the welded frame into the ditch and set the horizontal level to the building level. With two bars located at the ends of the channel, we check its parallelism to the rollback line.
5. After that, we fill our trench with concrete mixture at the rate of:

• cement - 5 bags;
• crushed stone - 0.3 cubic meters;
• sand - 0.5 cubic meters.

Sliding gate installation

After 5-7 days, the base will finally set and become strong.

If you want to control the gate using automation, you must prudently lay the cables in plastic (can be from the sewer) or metal tubes.

After 5-10 days after the foundation is completed, they begin to install the rollback system. The instruction suggests the assembly process to be divided into stages:

1. Preparatory.

• along the opening, at a height of 20 cm from the road, we stretch the twine to set the position of the carrier.
• insert the roller supports (refer to the instructions) into the beam and move them (just roll them) to the center of the gate.
• we insert roller carts into the U-shaped carrier and fix it on the sash.
• we put the assembled structure on the workpiece from the channel.
• we place both roller supports according to the markup.
• align the gate so that it is parallel to our cord in the opening.
• we fix roller carts on the laid channel.
• we weld an adjusting platform to the channel, for the second roller support.
• we roll the structure to the end to check the horizontal position of the supports and the sash.
• then we only weld the platform (adjustment) of the first support.
• then we remove everything and weld the platforms of the remaining supports to the laid channel.
• again we strengthen all the supports and push the door leaf.
• we close the gate for fine adjustment of the horizontal position of the bearing element. They do this with a wrench by simply raising / lowering the roller platforms.

1. Free play setting

Adjustment is achieved by the correct location of the roller carts.

Free play setting

They take the appropriate wrench and loosen the nuts securing the adjusting platforms and roller supports. We close / open the gate several times to set the roller supports in the desired position. When easy and free movement is achieved, only the top nuts need to be tightened.

Next, install the plugs and the roller at the end. It is mounted on the front side of the gate in the U-shaped rail itself. We fix it with bolts and proceed to install the plug, which is supplied in the mounting package of the retractable mechanism. It is reinforced from the back. The plug is provided to protect the rollers from rust and jamming due to bad weather.

Then we mount the upper bracket. First, its rollers are slightly loosened and this element is placed so that the rollers are flush with the upper edge, and the bracket itself is turned to the support post by the place of fasteners. Then we press the part and fix it.

Ready-made sliding gates

1. After that, we begin the sheathing of the gate. We cut sheets of prepared material:

• iron;
• steel;
• stainless steel;
• corrugated board;
• other.

sheathing starts from the facade of the gate, fixing the material with self-tapping screws, rivets, iron strips.

After that, we install the upper and lower catchers to relieve the load from the mechanism and prevent the gate from swinging.

Lifting gates for summer cottages save a sufficient amount of space, but their installation is not carried out without the help of specialists. Gates have an electric mechanism for lifting and devices with which it is carried out (ropes, rails, gears).

Such gates are difficult to open by hand due to their heavy weight. Therefore, they are not suitable for summer cottages that are not supplied with electricity, as they require a constant supply network.

There are three types of such gates:

1. Blind type.
2. Lifting swivel.
3. Rising vertically.

Overhead gate

The easiest to manufacture is the third option. It represents two pillars with guides, along which gates with rollers slide. If you use an electric motor with a rack and pinion mechanism, installing it vertically, you can automate the process.

One of the options for lifting gates.

Blinds are difficult to make yourself, so you have to buy them. This is the most expensive of all options. Instructions for self-assembly are provided in the video. Therefore, you can try to install them yourself.

In principle, with a wicket door, you can make any of the gates, except for louvered ones, you only need the wicket door itself and several additional profiles.

There are two types of gate installation:

The gate on the sash is performed as follows:

First, we choose in which half of the gate the gate will be, then we mount 4 profiles (vertically). Two profiles will mark the limits of the frame (those that are further from the gate - external) and two in the future will form an opening for the gate (internal).

Separate gate

To increase the strength, braces are welded (in the corners, to the external racks). In addition, the middle profile (horizontally) is mounted, which defines the inner opening of the gate. After that, the profile is typed, taking into account the additional 2 cm of the opening diagonally. 2 cm is the accepted tolerance for possible metal expansion or deformation. Finishing work is carried out similarly with swing gates.

It is quite logical that the gates are mounted after erection and require the preliminary installation of supporting pillars.

Training

Before starting work, for their high-quality implementation, we need the appropriate tool, namely:

• welding machine (for attaching profiles, the power of the machine must be at least 1000A);
• grinder (for cutting blanks and general metal processing);
• dye;
• a hammer;
• building level;
• roulette.

Tools are your faithful assistants

In addition to tools, you need to prepare the source material - shaped pipes (ideally, a pipe with a size of 60x40x2.5). The amount of material needed, including metal, is calculated in estimates or found out when drawing up drawings or diagrams.

When constructing sliding gates for summer cottages, for their further normal operation, you additionally need:

• rollers (including trailer);
• beams;
• capturing mechanisms.

Mounting package for assembly

All these elements form a console, without which it is simply impossible to make a sliding gate.

Before installing a gate for a summer residence, you need to determine the dimensions (standard parameters are length, width, height). If the gate is used for the passage of vehicles, then 2.6 m will be quite enough for an ordinary car (for a truck - 3.5 m). Remember, if you have swing gates, increasing their size will increase the space needed to open and close them.

After preparing all the materials and tools, they begin to pour the foundation.

Foundation

When installing a gate for a summer cottage of a retractable type, it is also necessary to organize the foundation. We will dig a trench in advance (about 1.5 meters deep and 40 cm wide). Let's place a channel with welded pieces of reinforcement there and fill it with concrete at ground level, as indicated in the paragraph on sliding gates.

The installation of the channel is carried out using the building level to avoid distortions. It takes 7 days for the concrete to harden and work to continue.

Foundation scheme for sliding gates

How to make a frame

From the very beginning, with the help of any improvised tools (grinders, brushes for metal), they clean the pipes, and then paint them. For the manufacture of frames of various types of gates, including sliding ones, pipes of different sections (60x40 or 50x50) are used. The outer frame is made of pipes, and then the inner frame is welded into it. Further, the structure is sheathed with wood, metal or corrugated board.

If you mount sliding gates for a summer residence with your own hands, you will also need to set the rollers on the channel, then put on the guide on top (set it evenly) and weld special carts with rollers to the channel itself. Then the supporting rollers, which were already mentioned earlier, are welded on, and at the final stage the entire frame is painted to give it anti-corrosion properties and aesthetic design.

The gate is usually made of the same material as the fence. Depending on the needs of the owner, the wooden gate is varnished or painted.

The most common option is to make a gate from a picket fence

Picket fence

For normal use of the structure, determine in advance the distance between the gate supports, this will determine the size of the door itself and the width of the passage. Support posts can be made of concrete, brick, metal or wood. After concreting the supports and drying the solution, hinges are attached to the supports and the door is hung so that a gap of 5-10 mm remains below. Try on the gate to the supports even before they are concreted, measure the distance required for normal opening / closing, and only then mount

Photo of the gate in the country