Growing greenhouse cucumbers. How to care for cucumbers in a greenhouse

Tillage in a greenhouse

Before planting any variety of cucumbers, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil. Ideal soil mixture for any variety is the following: equal parts of humus, peat, manure, sod land with an acidity of 6.5-7 pH. If necessary, chalk is added to the soil or quicklime(if the acidity level is very high).

This must be done, since no care will save you from fungi that are very fond of greenhouse conditions for reproduction. And such precautions make it possible to reduce the risk of infection of plants. Besides, proper care behind the soil involves regular addition for the same purpose wood ash, but fertilizers are applied only after planting, this should not be done in advance.

Cucumber fertilizer

When growing cucumbers in greenhouses, you need to pay attention to the fertilizers you use. For any plant, it is important to receive not only regular watering, but also the proper amount of nutrients and nutrients, because it will depend on how active growth and fruiting will be.

fertilize cucumbers different sort quite easily, immediately after the appearance of the first shoots, they begin to give small dosages of dressings that contain a lot of nutrients.

In the first fifteen days, cucumbers need enhanced care and nitrogen nutrition, but after flowering begins, nitrogen is replaced by phosphorus. It is after the appearance of the first flowers that the plant begins to actively absorb everything nutrients, during this period, feeding should be regular, it is unacceptable to miss a single time. During the growing season greenhouse cucumbers already need nitrogen-potassium nutrition, which replaces phosphorus.

At this time, it is recommended to closely monitor the condition of the plant, if necessary, introduce other dosages or fertilizers with a different composition. It is better to fertilize the soil of cucumbers in the late afternoon, 4 hours after watering them. fertilize cucumbers various sorts best in the late afternoon, before watering the beds for four hours. At the same time, the first watering allows you to slightly moisten the soil, and the second evening watering completely removes salt from the surface of the leaves so that they do not get burned. After the fertilizers are added, it is necessary to pour a little fertile soil under the plant itself.

Very effective foliar top dressing especially in violation thermal regime when the supply of minerals is very difficult. In this case, a solution of the following composition is used: for ten liters of water, two grams of boric acid, potassium permanganate, blue vitriol. Spraying with such a mixture is carried out early in the morning or in the evening, while only on the underside of the leaves, since it is there that the most absorbent stomata are.

Feeding cucumbers with liquid compost

How to feed cucumbers if there is neither ash nor manure at hand, but you don’t really want to use “chemistry”? There is one good and absolutely free option. This fertilizer is literally lying around under our feet. Any fresh grass, tops, as well as all fallen apples, pears, etc. are suitable for its preparation. We fill a barrel or any other container with all this “raw materials”, about two-thirds. Then fill it with water, cover with a lid and leave for fermentation. Fermentation will continue for about 10 days. After the fermentation stops, the fertilizer can be used. It is necessary to breed this "talker" in the same way as the mullein. For a bucket of water 1 liter of solution. This fertilizer has one drawback. From the barrel comes a strong and bad smell. To muffle it, add a little valerian to the barrel. And of course cover with a lid.

Yeast dressing of cucumbers

Many gardeners use ordinary baker's yeast to feed plants. For this, both dry and ordinary yeast are used. Ordinary bred 100 gr. for 10 liters of water. And you can water right away. Dry yeast (10 g bag) is also diluted in 10 liters of water, but they must be allowed to infuse for 2 hours. In addition, it is recommended to add 2-3 tablespoons of sugar to this solution.

Conduct yeast supplements cucumbers should be no more than 2 times per season. Yeast does not contain any beneficial trace elements. Such top dressing can be regarded as stimulating, not nourishing. However, after applying such dressings, cucumbers noticeably “come alive” and grow. So there is a benefit to them. It is necessary to carry out all these top dressings 1 time in 10 - 15 days. The greatest effect is obtained by alternating various ways. All these methods can be combined with each other. Of course, within reason. Fertilizer beyond measure desired result will not lead.

Watering cucumbers in a greenhouse should only be carried out warm water, as cold water can lead to various diseases root system, such as root rot. It is also not necessary to water cucumbers “under the root”, since it is better to water cucumbers in a greenhouse correctly through specially created grooves along the plants. As a result of watering cucumbers “under the root”, the roots of plants can be exposed, which can lead to a significant decrease in the quantity, as well as the quality of the fruit. If, as a result of careless watering, the roots of the cucumbers are still bare, then you must immediately spud the bush or report the soil from above.

The method of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse - in buckets

In the autumn we put things in order at the dacha: we collect all the foliage in the area and determine the necessary part of it in the greenhouse, where next year we will grow cucumbers. During the winter, the collected foliage will settle. In the spring, on top of the foliage, we sketch a small layer of compost, level it. Let's soak the seeds, wait for them to germinate, so as not to plant pacifiers in the ground. Each hatched seed, when sown in the ground (sprout down), is covered with a plastic cylinder from an ordinary 1.5-2-liter plastic bottle with a neck upwards, 15 cm high. Cylinders need to be slightly deepened into the ground. Germination of seeds will be one hundred percent: how much you sow - so much will rise!

And after germination, replace the plastic cylinders with stronger ones - metal ones and a larger diameter, about 300 mm, and leave only one plant inside. Why metal? - You need good strength. For this purpose, old galvanized buckets are successfully suitable.

It is very convenient to care for such plantings: it is easy to mulch, sprinkle, water. In the summer, you need to collect nettles and wrap cucumber plants inside the cylinders - this will help retain moisture in the root system. When the nettle dries, it will need to be replaced with a fresh one. And further. For the yield of cucumbers, plants should be watered with an infusion of nettles and other herbs.

When growing cucumbers in such cylinders, the worries become much less: no need to loosen the soil, do weeding. This will not damage the weak root system plants, as it will always be covered.

Cucumbers really do not like when in full swing good care, constant watering suddenly there is a pause. The owner leaves them for a long time, for a week, it is hot and the soil dries up.

After such an impact, cucumber lashes begin to quickly turn yellow. Cucumbers think that the growing season is over, and they need to fold. The plant quickly spends the last of its strength on laying the last fruits, greens, and no longer wants to grow further. This pause should be avoided. That is, it is advisable to water the cucumbers every day, or mulch, so that the moisture supply under the mulch remains quite tangible. Mulching is easiest with ordinary dry grass or leaves, hay. This is the most common mulch.

Garter cucumbers in the greenhouse

The garter of cucumbers in the greenhouse is carried out earlier than the garter of cucumbers in open ground. To do this, no later than a week after planting the cucumber, the twine is tied over each planted plant. The wire should be pulled at a height of at least one and a half meters above each row of cucumbers. Instead of wire, you can use a nylon cord.

To date experienced gardeners increasingly resorting to the use of a special grid - both for greenhouse cucumbers, and for cucumbers in open ground. Such a grid in the form of two canvases is stretched over cucumbers at a certain angle to form a “tent”. Then the tendrils of cucumbers are manually placed on the grid. Over time, the cucumber vine itself will hold on to the net and grow safely upwards. Note that this option is less troublesome than when installing trellises, and picking cucumbers is much more convenient.

If cucumbers do not grow well, get sick, and the leaves turn yellow:

If the leaves of cucumbers of various varieties have turned very pale, become yellowish, then you should think about whether their nutrition is balanced. In this case, fertilizers contain too much nitrogen, but this problem is quite simple to solve. We must begin to slowly feed the plants with urea, while adding about fifty grams of urea to ten liters of ordinary water. It often happens that growth is quite active, but flowering is weak and clearly insufficient.

In this case, it is necessary to fertilize only with potassium-phosphorus top dressing at the rate of one bucket of solution for eight to ten holes.

Have you noticed that there are very few ovaries and are afraid that the harvest will be poor? Fertilizers from bird droppings can solve the problem. With this method of feeding, it is necessary that the temperature in the greenhouse be at the level of plus seventeen to eighteen degrees, arrange ventilation at night (but in no case do cold drafts, which all varieties are afraid of).

There is also such a situation when there are a lot of ovaries, but cucumbers grow poorly. It is recommended to start active feeding with mullein. You also need to enter additional top dressing from urea and humus.

Wanting to get a crop of cucumbers to fame, many summer residents are thinking about growing this plant in a greenhouse. With this method, fruiting is much higher than in open ground. However, in order to get a big harvest, you need to know how to choose the right varieties and what care should be taken for cucumbers in a greenhouse.

Variety selection

The implementation of the plan for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse should begin with the selection of seeds. To get a big harvest, you must carefully read the information on the package. In it, producers indicate what type the variety belongs to and whether it is suitable for growing in a greenhouse. But there is no mention of caring for cucumbers in the greenhouse, because not every summer resident will plant plants under cover.

So, varieties of cucumbers are divided into two groups: self-pollinated and bee-pollinated. In greenhouses, it is recommended to plant self-pollinated plants. They don't need insects to get a crop. Otherwise, bees and hornets will have to be lured into the greenhouse so that they carry out pollination, or pollinate manually, armed with a brush and a magnifying glass.

When choosing a variety, be sure to consider following parameters:

1. Sowing dates. If you plan to get early harvest, then it is worth giving preference to shade-tolerant varieties. Breeders have bred varieties that can produce good harvest in extreme conditions. For example, the April variety, which is ideal for harvesting in April-May.
2. Ripening dates. Manufacturers indicate the terms of fruit ripening on the packages. Usually, all varieties ripen on the fortieth day, but there are also early ripening varieties that yield crops on the 33rd day, and there are late cucumbers, the first crop from which is harvested on the 55th day.
3. Disease resistance. In the greenhouse, the plants are subjected to the most various diseases so it is important to choose resistant varieties. So you can reduce the frequency of crop treatments with various fungicides.
4. Plant growth. Some varieties do not have growth restrictions, but there are those that form lashes themselves and limit their growth.

After selecting seeds, they are prepared and then sown. Such varieties as Athlete, Grenade, White Angel, Herman, Crystal, Regatta, Hercules, Garland, Emelya, Annushka, Dynamite are suitable for the greenhouse. Among these varieties there are self-pollinated and bee-pollinated plants.

Seed preparation and sowing

Caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse begins with proper preparation seeds. First, they need to be processed. Each summer resident has his own secret of processing plant seeds: someone does it using a solution of potassium permanganate, and someone uses boric acid. In any of the solutions, the seeds are soaked for a couple of hours, after which they are thoroughly washed under running water. Then they are sown for seedlings in a container or immediately sown in the ground.

Soil preparation

While the seedlings will grow, you should take care of the soil. It must be of high quality and have the following properties:

1. Have middle level pH.
2. Have excellent throughput.
3. Great for absorbing moisture.
4. Have high fertility.

Experts assure that the the best mixture is fresh humus and soddy soil, to which peat and fertilizers are added. On farms, when growing cucumbers, sawdust is added to the soil conifers trees. They reduce production costs while increasing yields.

Seedling

To obtain high yield in a greenhouse, you must first grow seedlings. Experienced gardeners recommend growing a plant precisely seedling way to get the harvest earlier.

Seedlings of cucumbers are placed in two rows. This method simplifies the care of cucumbers in the greenhouse. To receive big harvest wells must be prepared in advance. They must be at least fifteen centimeters deep. Fertilizer is placed in each hole, five grams of superphosphate and potassium, nitrogen. Be sure to add 500 grams of compost, peat. Everything is mixed inside the hole.

In order for the care of seedlings of cucumbers in the greenhouse to be correct, you need to install trellises or think about how you will tie them up. The twine is fixed immediately when planting seedlings. So how to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse, what should be their care?

Ready thirty-day seedlings are planted in a greenhouse at a distance of at least half a meter between rows, and between plants - twenty centimeters. During planting, it will be convenient to make small holes around crops: this way you can reduce water consumption when watering with a watering can.

After planting, the ridges are mulched. This helps to prevent the formation of a crust on the soil and reduce the rate of evaporation of moisture.

Important Rules

Proper care of cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse will allow you to get a high yield of greens. You should start by avoiding sudden temperature fluctuations day and night, and also try to maintain the same level of humidity. Do not water cucumbers cold water and allow excess moisture.

top dressing

Plants are fed only three weeks after planting. To do this, use a nutrient mixture of nitrogenous and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers taken in equal parts. Plants are watered with this composition once a month and fertilized once a month. complex fertilizer. It is best to use liquid biohumus. It contains all necessary for the plant nutrients and trace elements.

Loosening and microclimate

If the plants are not mulched, then the earth must be loosened. This is important rule care for seedlings of cucumbers in the greenhouse. While the plants are small, watering and loosening alternate: once watered, the next day the soil was loosened.

AT polycarbonate greenhouse high humidity conditions are created. So that the plant does not rot and other diseases do not appear, the greenhouse must be ventilated, but without drafts. To do this, open either one window, or the entire door.

Watering

When growing cucumbers, care involves not only loosening and creating the right microclimate, but also ensuring proper watering. According to the analysis of the composition of the greenery itself, it contains almost 97% of water, therefore, the plant must be watered regularly.

The first watering of seedlings is carried out three days after planting the seedlings. Water is poured a little, and only on the root zone. This helps stimulate root growth. If the plant is flooded, the roots will rot.

Then, during growth and flowering, the culture is watered once a week. If suddenly the soil dries out faster, then watering becomes more frequent. During the period of pouring cucumbers, the culture is watered daily until the entire crop is harvested.

Care when growing cucumbers involves compliance the following rules glaze:

1. Do not pour water from a watering can on the leaves of the plant. In closed ground there is no good ventilation, and the plant simply begins to die. In the greenhouse, watering is carried out under the root, using warm, settled water.
2. Cannot be watered during the day. During watering, water droplets may form on the leaves. Even if watering is done at the root, there will still be moisture on the leaves. This is due to its enhanced release with vapor: rising up, the vapor settles as dew drops on the leaves of the plant. With daily watering, the plant receives sunburn.
3. Watering is carried out only with warm water. Cucumbers are very thermophilic plants. When watered with cold water, they begin to shed their ovaries. The ideal option will collect water in containers, and after the water has infused and becomes the same temperature as Environment, it is used for its intended purpose.
4. Cucumbers love elevated level moisture. If there is dry air in the greenhouse or a lack of moisture, then a bucket of water is placed in it.

garter plants

Cucumber care involves constant tying up of lashes. This procedure is performed in the following way: make a loose loop around the plant. It should not crush the stem, as it will increase in thickness. Then several times the whip is twisted around the twine.

The method of tying the twine to the trellis depends on how the plant will be formed. If you plan to lead one whip, then one twine is lowered. If two lashes are left on the culture, then the rope is tied in the shape of the letter “V”. Some gardeners use trellis mesh. With this option, the plant is not tied up: it itself will cling to the cells with its antennae, climbing higher and higher. Although some bushes will have to be helped: they are tied to the net, so that later the plant itself can grow up. When deviating to the side, the whip is redirected.

Bush formation

Proper care and formation of a cucumber are two inseparable concepts. Beginning vegetable growers can see a picture of the jungle in the greenhouse, where cucumbers crawl along the walls, along the ground. This is the result of untimely formation.

Cucumber is one of the easiest tropical vines from where it was once brought to us. Density is detrimental to a plant: it receives less light, lacks air, increases humidity, develops various diseases. To avoid all this, you need to learn how to properly form a bush.

During care, follow these steps:

1. Remove all shoots and buds from the axils of the first three true leaves. Thus, the plant is stimulated for further development. It begins to actively grow, develop, lay many ovaries. If you leave the ovary and shoots, then the culture will stop growing, will begin to lay out all its strength in the development of this crop.
2. From the ground to a height of half a meter, all side shoots. Then, at a height of half a meter to one and a half meters, only one leaf is left on the side shoots.
3. As the lash grows, all side shoots are pinched onto one sheet.

During the formation of a cucumber in a polycarbonate greenhouse, it is important to remove yellowed, diseased leaves during care. All shaping procedures are carried out in the morning so that the wounds can dry out and heal by evening.

There are varieties of cucumbers in which the formation is carried out to a minimum, and there are those that do not need pinching at all.

Pollination

If you buy self-pollinated seeds, then such plants will tie greens themselves. But for those pollinated in the greenhouse, you will have to lure insects that will pollinate them. To lure bees into the greenhouse is simple: for this you need sweetness, but not just what kind. Honey or jam is ideal for luring. Sweetness is placed in a container and diluted with water. ready mix placed in a greenhouse, open a window or door.

If the bees do not fly into the greenhouse, then you will have to work as a pollinator yourself. For this, a brush is taken and pollen is collected from it. male plants and transferred to women. It is easy to distinguish these flowers: the male ones do not have greenery, while the female ones have a thickening at the base of the flower. Pollination is carried out in the early morning, as soon as the flowers open.

Problems of growing cucumbers

When growing a crop indoors, you may encounter the most different problems. AT hot weather with a lack of air at the lashes, the lower leaves dry out. In this situation, it is necessary to remove all damaged leaves, but not in a day. The whip itself is removed from the trellis and laid in a ring on the ground, lightly pressed. New roots will begin to form on it, and new shoots will begin to grow from the top.

In some cases, the plant may not set fruit. This happens for various reasons: due to lack of pollination, too hot climate. The absence of an ovary may indicate a lack of nutrition for cucumbers in a greenhouse. Care and feeding help to fix this.

Cucumbers can be bitter. This is usually observed with a lack of moisture. To get rid of bitterness, plants begin to water abundantly. Bitterness can also be influenced by the variety and harvest period. Summer residents recommend collecting greens in 1-2 days. If you overexpose the vegetable on the whip, then it begins to gain bitterness.

Diseases of cucumbers

Plants can get sick. Most often, cucumbers are infected with peronosporosis, powdery mildew. Aphids love this culture. To fight diseases and pests, it is necessary to carry out periodic treatments of plantings with the use of fungicides. After processing the plants, the greenhouse is ventilated.

For pest control, drugs such as Sherpa, Mitak, BI-25, Zolon, Aktara, Fufonon and others are used. Each summer resident has his own remedy. Some use only folk remedies pest control. It can be herbal tinctures, ash and other means.

It will be useful for gardeners to watch the video below.

Cucumbers are among the most unpretentious garden plants. To get stable large yields, it is necessary to water the bushes in a timely manner and apply fertilizers. Drip irrigation can be installed in the greenhouse: it is ideal for growing cucumbers and can prevent the soil from drying out. This method of watering helps to keep the humidity level inside the greenhouse at the same level, without sharp fluctuations.

Then there is no need to grow seedlings at home. Seedlings are grown immediately in a greenhouse on a small area of ​​​​the garden. Seeds are sown on April 20, and then after 20-22 days (approximately May 10-12), seedlings are planted over the entire area of ​​the greenhouse, that is, on permanent place. In the event of a decrease in air temperature during the period of seedling growth, it is necessary to close it inside the greenhouse with a light thin film or a special non-woven material.
Seeds for seedlings are sown in pots, cups or bags measuring 8X8 or 10X10 cm.
One of the nutrient soil mixtures is poured into the pots: 2 parts of peat and humus and 1 part of small old sawdust, 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska and 3 tablespoons of wood ash are added to a bucket of this mixture; one part of soddy land, peat, humus, sawdust, or one part of peat and humus, 1 glass of wood ash is added to a bucket of these mixtures. Any soil mixture can be replaced with ready-made soil " living earth» without the addition of fertilizers.
The soil mixture is well mixed and poured to the top in pots. Then watered with a warm (50 ° C) solution (dissolve 1 tablespoon in 10 liters of water). liquid humate sodium). If the soil mixture is compacted, it is necessary to pour the soil so that the pot is full. Before you put the finished pots on the bed in the greenhouse, the bed must be dug up, leveled, lightly tamped and be sure to sprinkle from the watering can with a solution of copper sulphate (for 10 liters of warm - 80 ° C water, take 1 tablespoon of copper sulphate at the rate of 2 liters per 1 m 2 beds). And only after that the pots are placed one to one, in a bridge way, that is, close to each other. In the middle of the pot, a hole is made 2 cm deep and sown one seed at a time, then covered with soil mixture and covered with a double layer of covering material on top.
Seedlings are grown for 22-25 days, no more. It is necessary to maintain the temperature at night not lower than 12-14 ° C, during the day not lower than 15-16 ° C. At night, you need to cover the seedlings warmer, and during the day the additional covering material is removed. If during the day the air temperature reaches 20 ° C and above, you can slightly open the window on one side of the Dachnaya 2DUM greenhouse. On a warm day, seedlings in the phase of two true leaves need to be fed with a solution: for 10 liters of warm water, take 1 glass of liquid mullein and 1 teaspoon of urea or crystallin (2-3 liters per 1 m 2 seedlings) or 1-2 tablespoons of "Ideal" (2 liters per 1 m 2). During the growing period, seedlings are watered 1-2 times with warm (30 ° C) water at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m 2 of the bed. Seedlings are watered in the morning - at 10-11 o'clock.

Planting seedlings in a permanent place in the greenhouse and caring for it.

From autumn or in early spring the greenhouse is thoroughly disinfected with the following solution: for 10 liters of water, take 1 tablet of the drug "Inta-vir" and 2 tablets of oxychoma, spend 10 liters of solution per 15-20 m 2.
In April, prepare the ground. To do this, take and mix thoroughly:

1. 1 part each of peat, humus, sod land and sawdust;
2. 6 parts of peat and 2 parts of humus and sawdust;
3. 2 parts of sod land, 3 parts of humus and peat and 1 part of sawdust;
4. 5 parts of sod land and peat or humus.

The soil is brought into the greenhouse and beds are made 80 cm wide, 35 cm high, a passage of 60-70 cm is left between them. Fertilizers are applied to the beds at the rate of 1 m 2: 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate, 1 teaspoon of urea and 1 tablespoon of superphosphate , 1 cup wood ash or ready-made deoxidizer. Then the ridges are split to a depth of 15-20 cm and watered with a necessarily filtered solution (10 liters of hot - 70 ° C water, 0.5 liters of liquid mullein or 1 glass of bird droppings and 1 teaspoon of copper sulphate), consumption "by 5 liters per 1 m 2.
After watering with a hot solution, the beds in the greenhouse are covered with a clean thin film to preserve moisture and heat.
All this must be done 5-6 days before planting cucumber seedlings in a reinforced greenhouse Dachnaya-2DUM in a permanent place.
As soon as the beds are ready, two rows of wire are pulled along each of them at a height of 1.5-2 m. The distance between the rows is 20-30 cm. The wire must be well fixed so that it does not break under the weight of the crop, and wipe it with a damp cloth with soap.
On the day of planting, holes are made in the beds with a depth corresponding to the size of the pot, and they are watered with a Barrier solution (1 bottle of 0.25 liters per 10 liters of water), spending 0.5 liters per hole. The temperature of the solution is 30 °C.
Before planting, seedlings are watered and planted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. For better lighting it is planted in a checkerboard pattern.
Seedlings are planted vertically, only the pot falls asleep. If the seedlings are a little stretched out, then the stalk to the cotyledon leaves can be covered with a mixture of peat and sawdust (1: 1) or pure peat, or sawdust to avoid root rot.
The beds are always kept clean of weeds. In the first 2-3 weeks, when the plants are still small, loosening is carried out very carefully to a depth of 2-3 cm, so as not to damage the roots. In the future, loosening is carried out depending on how irrigation water will pass into the soil. If the water does not pass well during irrigation, then this means that the soil is compacted. Then, with a pitchfork, punctures are made between the rows of plants to the depth of the horns, 4-5 punctures per 1 m 2. With such loosening, the root system is not disturbed.
Cucumbers are watered moderately before flowering, after 5-7 days, 3-4 liters per 1 m 2, and during flowering and fruiting after 2-3 days, 6-12 liters per 1 m 2, depending on the weather. On cloudy days, water less. Water should be warm (23-25 ​​° C). When watering with cold water, the roots of the plant become ill and the ovaries die off massively.
It is impossible to water with a strong jet from a hose, since with such watering the soil is eroded and the roots, leaves and stems are damaged. You can only water the soil, not the plants.

top dressing

When growing cucumbers in a greenhouse over the summer, 4-5 top dressings are carried out with mineral and organic fertilizers.
The first time they are fed at the beginning of flowering plants with the following solution: for 10 liters of water, take 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate, urea, superphosphate and 1 glass of mushy mullein or 1 tablespoon of liquid sodium humate. During fruiting, cucumbers are fed 4 times. For the first feeding for 10 liters of water, take 1 cup of mushy chicken manure and 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska or for the same amount of water 2 tablespoons of dry fertilizer "Breadwinner", add 5 liters per 1 m 2. The second feeding is carried out 10-12 days after the first: for 10 liters of water, take 0.5 liters of mullein and 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate at the rate of 5-6 liters per 1 m 2, or add 1 tablespoon of Fertility fertilizer to the same amount of water. ".
After 12 days, top dressing is repeated with the following composition: for 10 liters of water, 0.5 liters of mullein or chicken manure, 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska or nitroammofoska, or 1 tablespoon of Bogatyr fertilizer, spending 5-10 liters of solution per 1 m 2.
If there is no mullein or litter, they can be replaced with sodium humate, ready-made dressings “Ideal”, “Breadwinner”, “Fertility”, vegetable “Giant” or green herbal dressing (plantain, chickweed (louse), nettle, coltsfoot , chop dandelion leaves and pour 1 kg of this mass into 10 liters hot water, stir well, leave for a day or more, then strain and water at the rate of 3-4 liters per 1 m 2).

Cucumber formation

10-15 days after planting, the plants are tied with twine to the wire. Plants are formed into one main stem, leaving side shoots. In the axils of the first 4 true leaves, a blind is made: if flowers or shoots appear, they are carefully plucked out.
The next 5-6 lateral shoots are left up to 20 cm long, their tops are pinched. Above, shoots 30-40 cm long are already left and the tops are also pinched. Still higher near the wire, shoots are left 40-50 cm long, the main shoot is thrown over both rows of wire and, upon reaching a length of 60 cm behind them, pinch, as shown in the figure.

Cucumbers are the most commonly grown crop in the greenhouse. Every summer gardener strives to please himself and his loved ones with delicious homemade cucumbers without chemical additives. The article will tell you how to care for cucumbers in a greenhouse: how to organize watering and fertilizing at all stages life cycle plants. The video "Caring for Cucumbers in a Greenhouse" will clearly demonstrate how to properly perform these steps.

Soil preparation

If the greenhouse has been used for growing cucumbers and other vegetables for more than a year, you need to take care of the fertility of the soil. To do this, it recommends at least once every two to three years to change the top layer of fertile soil, replacing the old one, depleted to a depth of 25-35 cm, with a mixture of earth, peat, sand and humus. Thus, it is possible to enrich the soil, increase the content of humus and other nutrients.

Ground for future landing cucumbers are best prepared in the fall

If soil replacement is not planned for the next season, experienced gardeners recommend disinfecting it to minimize risks. possible diseases. To do this, it is necessary to prepare a solution of potassium permanganate (dilute in water until saturated pink shade) and water the soil.

In autumn and spring, before planting, you need to additionally loosen the previously dug up soil in the greenhouse, remove all weeds.

Seed preparation

• "Spring";
• "Gusto";
• "Vodogray";
• "Ajax";
• "Xana" and others.

Tip: before sowing cucumber seeds, they should be checked for germination by soaking in a 5% salt solution. Hollow (unsuitable for growing) seeds will float to the surface and should be discarded.

cucumber seeds

Seeding cucumbers

Cucumbers can be sown immediately with seeds in the ground in a greenhouse or previously (two to three weeks) for seedlings. Seeds are buried in the ground to a depth of no more than 1.5-2 cm, otherwise there is a risk that they will not sprout. When planting cucumbers, it should be remembered that the delicate root system of these vegetables is extremely sensitive to damage, therefore it is recommended to plant cucumbers for seedlings in peat cups. Then, without removing them from the cups, immediately move them to a permanent place of growth.

look after cucumber seedlings you need the same as for another vegetable: provide enough light, organize proper watering, temperature regime and primary nutrition. If the plants do not have enough sunlight, they will stretch and weaken.

When transplanting cucumbers to a permanent place in the greenhouse, remember that the plants are very fragile.

Before planting cucumbers in a greenhouse, the soil should be warmed up (pour warm water), it is recommended to add diluted mullein or bird droppings to each well.

It is important to provide for each bush of cucumbers the necessary area for comfortable growth. Therefore, it is advised to plant cucumbers at a distance of 60-70 cm from one another. With this scheme, they will not compete for water, light and nutrients.

Organization of watering cucumbers in the greenhouse

Caring for cucumbers is to create optimal conditions for their growth. First of all, it is important to ensure proper watering. It is recommended to water cucumbers two to three times a week, abundantly under each bush.

Attention! Only used for irrigation warm water: settled and heated well or collected rainwater.

Cucumbers are very fond of water, but it should not stagnate at the roots.

On hot days, cucumbers can be watered daily, even twice a day: irrigating plantings in the morning, and watering under a bush in the evening. But at the same time, it is important not to pour cucumbers, provoking the occurrence of root rot. With excessive watering, the root system of the plant begins to rot, new shoots do not form, old ones rot, cucumbers stop growing and then die.
Lack of moisture leads to yellowing in the first place of the lower old cucumber leaves, and then to the drying of the bush.

Temperature regime in the greenhouse

When caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse, it should be remembered that these plants are quite sensitive to changes and temperature drops. The most comfortable temperature regime is about 25-30 degrees during the day and not lower than 15-16 degrees at night. It is in this range that the growth of the culture, the set of green mass, the ovary and the weight gain of the fruits occur.

If at night the temperature in the greenhouse with cucumbers is below 15-16 degrees, the ovary becomes sterile and empty. A further decrease in temperature will lead to a halt in development.

The greenhouse must be ventilated daily to avoid the development of fungus and bacteria.

Considering the special thermophilicity of cucumbers, it is recommended to ensure a comfortable temperature regime for them in the greenhouse. In hot hours, you need to ventilate the greenhouse, and on cold nights, adjust its heating. You can do this with plastic bottles filled with hot water or other containers (barrels, buckets, old vats and baths) placed around the greenhouse.

You can also use compact heaters (for example, a potbelly stove). Some gardeners abundantly water the aisles with warm water in the evening. Using the indicated methods, safety precautions should be observed and an excessive increase in humidity in the greenhouse should be avoided, which can lead to various diseases of cucumbers.

Problems of pollination of cucumbers in the greenhouse

For sowing in a greenhouse, it is recommended to take self-pollinated varieties. If the usual ones are sown, it is necessary to ensure the ventilation of the room so that pollination is carried out by insects. Usually left open doors and windows to the day, creating air currents, which simultaneously regulate the temperature regime and allow insects to fly in.

If you planted a non-self-pollinating variety, then pollination must be carried out artificially.

If there are few insects, pollination can be done manually. To do this, shake the flowers of cucumbers in the morning or walk on them with a brush. Some gardeners advise spraying cucumber bushes with sweet water (dissolve 1 teaspoon of sugar in 1 liter of water) to attract insects.

Feeding cucumbers in a greenhouse

Cucumbers respond well to different kinds fertilizing, increasing the yield and quality of fruits. When planting in the ground, humus should be added to the hole, and after two weeks, seedlings or seedlings should be fed with a solution of liquid mullein (1 liter per bucket of water). A similar top dressing is recommended every two to three weeks.

The lack of nutrients and minerals in the soil under cucumbers can lead to yellowing, browning and wilting. To form a healthy bush, you should feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizers, but without applying them more than the norm, since this will only lead to the growth of green mass, the appearance of barren flowers and the absence of a crop.

Regular top dressing of the crop and mulching the soil around it is a guarantee of a good harvest.

You should also apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, feed the bushes with a solution of wood ash. Phosphorus is introduced little by little, but constantly during the period of growth of cucumbers, since without it the root system of the plant functions poorly, the green mass does not grow, and the fruits do not set and do not ripen. Potassium ensures the normal vegetation of cucumbers.

Diseases of cucumbers: methods of treatment

At improper care Cucumbers are subject to various diseases. They can be attacked by aphids powdery mildew, downy mildew, spider mite. The roots of plants can be destroyed by the bear and the larvae of the click beetle, and the leaves and fruits - by slugs or whiteflies.

When the root is damaged by insects, the plant stops growing, bends, dries out and dies. You can fight the bear with folk methods by pouring a solution of vinegar (0.5 liters per 10-liter bucket of water) or black pepper (5 tablespoons per 10-liter bucket of water) into the mink passages.

Slugs (woodlice) are removed either mechanically by shaking or using bait. For its manufacture, potato tubers are used, cut in half. In each half, a notch should be made and the bait should be laid out in the greenhouse. In the morning, slugs in search of shelter will climb into potato tubers, and in the afternoon they can be thrown away.

spider mite

To understand whether the plant is infected with aphids or spider mites, it is enough to turn the leaf over. On the reverse side you can see aphid larvae or a thin cobweb. To remove aphids, experienced gardeners recommend treating the plant soapy water by washing the infected leaves. Also, to combat it, an infusion of onion peel, a decoction of leaves and stems of celandine are used. You can also use an infusion of garlic: you need to chop about 0.5 kg of garlic, pour 5 liters of hot water, keep in a dark place for at least a day and sprinkle the infected cucumbers.

These folk remedies can also be used when cucumbers are infected with spider mites. But first, you should cut off the infected leaves, take them outside the site, irrigate the cucumbers and, if the weather permits (cloudy, cloudy), water abundantly and cover with a film to increase humidity. The tick does not tolerate excessive humidity and dies.

Also excellent results in the fight against spider mites shows another folk method. It is necessary to put a jar of chopped garlic or turpentine near the infected plant and cover the bush with a dense cloth or film. Evaporation of turpentine and garlic contribute to the destruction of the pest.

It is necessary to clean plantings from aphids, mites immediately after their discovery, preventing infection of other plants.

Also, cucumbers in a greenhouse can become infected with fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew. A grayish-whitish coating appears on the leaves, the area of ​​\u200b\u200binfection quickly increases. To combat a fungal disease, you need to remove infected leaves (or even plants), treat the bush with a solution of liquid mullein and urea (dissolve 1 liter of these liquids in a bucket of water). You can also irrigate the bush with a solution of potassium permanganate (dissolve the crystals in a 10-liter bucket of water until a pale pink color is obtained).

Perenosporosis

In conditions high humidity air, the plant can become ill with downy mildew (downy mildew). In this disease, the plant should be treated with Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate, diluted slaked lime in a bucket of water). After processing, cucumbers can be eaten only after a week. To prevent the disease, an infusion of tansy is used to irrigate the soil.

Provide cucumbers with proper care in the greenhouse (watering, temperature control) and the plants will thank you with a bountiful harvest.

Caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse: video

Cucumber is a heat-loving crop, for which cultivation in the open field is not always accompanied by favorable conditions. weather conditions. The arrangement of a polycarbonate greenhouse allows you to avoid sudden changes in temperature and humidity, which recent times so famous is our spring. To grow a good crop of cucumbers to the envy of all neighbors, you need to take into account a number of simple rules for caring for cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse.

Soil preparation for planting

Prepare the soil for growing cucumbers Special attention

First of all, attention should be paid to the soil from which the plant will receive its main nutrition. This should be done in the fall: before digging, add fresh manure, phosphorus and potash fertilizers, lime or chalk. Cucumber is very picky about nutrition: the best soils for him are loams with a high content of nutrients and an acidity level of 6.5-7.

Important! nitrogen fertilizers are introduced into the ground only in spring.

Seed selection

Cucumbers can be planted with seedlings or seeds directly into the greenhouse. Seeds must be chosen correctly, it is better to use hybrids, since their flowers do not require pollination by insects. These are the so-called parthenocarpics: all the flowers of such plants are female, and the fruits are tied themselves.

Planting cucumber seedlings greenhouse soil

• Amur;
• Crispina;
• Athena;
• Ecole.

Pollinated varieties need pollinating insects. In their absence, pollination must be carried out manually. You can attract bees in this way: sprinkle the foliage of plants in the morning with brewed sugar syrup with the addition of a few drops of anise oil. Do not forget to open the windows at the same time so that insects can get into the greenhouse.

Here are some popular bee pollinated varieties for greenhouses:

• Annushka;
• Hercules;
• Crystal.

According to the purpose, the varieties are divided into salad, pickling and for canning.

Hand pollination of cucumber flowers

The timing of fruit ripening also differs:

1. Early: fruiting occurs 40-45 days after planting.
2. Mid-season - 45-50 days.
3. Late: fruiting occurs after 50 or more days.

Advice. When choosing seeds for growing, pay attention to the resistance of the variety to diseases and its yield.

Disembarkation to a permanent place

Before planting seeds or seedlings, it is advisable to disinfect the soil with a weak solution of hot potassium permanganate or a 7% solution of copper sulfate in order to avoid the development of diseases in cucumbers. After the beds are ready, you need to pull two rows of wire at a height of 1.5-2 m with a distance between rows of 20-30 cm - to tie the bushes. Can be used instead of wire plastic mesh. It should be strengthened slightly obliquely, so it will be convenient to harvest. In addition, plants with this method are illuminated better, respectively, and the yield is higher.

Scheme: a method of tying cucumber bushes

Plant seedlings along the wire rows or sow seeds in holes 1.5-2 cm deep at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. After completion of work, water the seedlings again.

Important! When planting seedlings, do not bury the root neck, as this can lead to the death of the plant.

Nutrition strategy

During fruiting, plants constantly require nutrients and carbon dioxide for photosynthesis. The more gas, the better. In greenhouses, the main source carbon dioxide are compost and organic mulch. You can increase the gas content by placing in the greenhouse any container half-filled with fresh manure or bird droppings. When this mixture ferments, it is used for top dressing, diluted with water in the right proportion: manure 1:20, and bird droppings 1:40. This simple method increases the yield.

Top dressing of cucumbers is carried out with both mineral and organic fertilizers.

But organics are not always at hand, so you can use ready-made mineral mixtures for pumpkin crops to feed cucumbers. The cucumber responds very well to foliar top dressing on foliage from a sprayer with the following composition: 2 g of boric acid per 10 liters of water.

Important! Top dressing should be no more than 5 times per season.

Watering

90% of the cucumber fruit consists of water and this explains the strong dependence of the plant on it. Soil moisture should be constant, without jumps from waterlogging to dryness. Both lack and excess moisture are very harmful:

• the ovary crumbles;
• fruits curl and become bitter;
• leaves die;
• the yield is sharply reduced;
• arise root rot and other diseases.

You can water the cucumber bushes only with warm water, otherwise the plants will start to hurt

Water for irrigation is necessarily warm, somewhere +20 - +25 ° C. You can not water the plant under the very stem, as this exposes the roots. If this has already happened, then sprinkle the earth. Mulching is very effective. Mulch does not allow the soil to dry out quickly, the crust does not form on the soil surface, the temperature regime remains constant, soil aeration is doubled, the development of weeds is suppressed, which reduces the number of weeds. Use whatever organic material is available. Suitable peat, compost, fallen leaves, straw, sun-dried grass cuttings.

Attention! Soil temperature should be constant - +22 - +24°C. At a temperature of + 13 - + 15 ° C, the roots of cucumbers do not absorb water.

It is no secret that watering takes a lot of time and effort from the gardener. Currently, systems are gaining more and more popularity. drip irrigation for polycarbonate greenhouses. The most important advantage of such systems is the minimum participation in the process, a person only needs to open and close the tap. In addition, water consumption is reduced several times, while water is guaranteed to the roots.

Temperature regime

In the heat, so as not to die in the sun, plants vigorously evaporate water. At low air humidity, the roots simply do not have time to deliver moisture to the leaves. A polycarbonate greenhouse allows you to create the necessary microclimate with high humidity, which should be about 80% before fruiting, and 90% during fruiting. This level of humidity is achieved by spraying and watering.

Ventilate the greenhouse regularly to maintain the required microclimate

But do not forget to ventilate the greenhouse to prevent the development of diseases. Plants are afraid of drafts, so try to do it through the upper windows. AT sunny days at noon, it is useful to make "poultices" by closing the greenhouse for 1.5-2 hours, and then ventilate it.

Advice! In extreme heat, spraying the leaves with water from a spray bottle will help increase the humidity and lower the air temperature in the greenhouse.

Pinching and shaping

In a greenhouse, no matter what size it is, it is imperative to form cucumbers. By removing everything superfluous from the bush, we redirect the forces of the plant to the development of fruits, improve illumination and air circulation. Shaping allows you to get more yield from a smaller area.

For parthenocarpic varieties, light is important, and the shape of the bush practically does not matter: the formation of the ovary in them does not depend on the presence of pollinating insects. Mostly fruits are formed on the side branches of the plant. Parthenocarpics, as a rule, branch very well, it is convenient to lead them with one liana on a trellis. After the appearance of the first ovary on the plant, it must be removed, this will give impetus to the intensive development of the plant. In the future, all lateral branches should be pinched after the formation of 3-4 fruits. When these shoots have new sprouts (of the 3rd order), then we pinch them over 2-3 leaves.

Bushes must be formed and tied to a support

Pollinated varieties, as a rule, form in several shoots. On the main stem they form for the most part male flowers- empty flowers, and on the side mostly female. They branch quite late, so you need to pinch the main stem above the sixth leaf and feed the plant so that it quickly puts forward new shoots and forms an ovary.

Advice. Cucumber shoots are very fragile, so that the plant is less injured, pinch with sharp scissors without leaving stumps.

Diseases of cucumbers

Not only cucumbers feel good in a polycarbonate greenhouse, but also their enemies: diseases, viruses and pests, which spread much faster in monoculture than in open ground. If measures are not taken in time, then you can be left without a harvest at all. Literally everything suffers - leaves, fruits, flowers and shoots.

Among the pests, the most common are melon aphids and greenhouse whiteflies, as well as spider mites. These insects feed on plant sap and can carry pathogens.

There are a lot of diseases and viruses in cucumbers, the most dangerous are powdery mildew, root rot, anthracnose, olive spot, peronosporosis.

Melon aphid on cucumber leaves

What are the causes of diseases.

• thickening of crops;
• poor ventilation;
• watering with cold water, its lack or excess;
• lack of crop rotation;
• incorrect temperature regime;
• lack of nutrition in the soil.

Carefully monitor the health of your plants, take timely protective measures and you will always have a rich harvest.

Advice. Always be sure to decontaminate the seeds of the plants you bought, this will save you a lot of trouble in the future.