Country water supply from plastic pipes. Seasonal plumbing options

Many townspeople enjoy spending time in their summer cottages, not only in the summer months, but also on winter weekends. So that life in a country house does not differ in comfort from the city, it is necessary to equip your site with all possible communication systems. The most important thing for a summer residence is an uninterrupted supply of water. Indeed, without this liquid it is impossible to grow plants, and living itself cannot be considered comfortable. This article will discuss how to organize water supply in the country with your own hands.

Choice of water source

Before proceeding with the arrangement of the water supply system, it is worth deciding on the source of water. If the village has a central water supply, then the best option would be to connect to it. But such communications are not available in all dacha cooperatives. Therefore, it is worth considering other options, namely:

  • well;
  • open source;
  • special tank;
  • well.

Each of them has its positive and negative sides. The most traditional way of obtaining water in rural areas can be considered a well. In fact, this is a simple deep pit, the bottom of which reaches the aquifer. To get water from a well, it is enough to lower a bucket there or equip a pumping station (hose and pump).

But this method has its drawbacks. Firstly, if there is no well in the summer cottage, then it must be dug. Such work is quite laborious and costly. Secondly, the quality of water from the well is not always the right level. Of course, it is quite acceptable to use such a source for watering the garden, but it is not quite suitable for drinking (it is necessary to additionally use cleaning and filtration systems).

Another source of water can be an open reservoir. If your cottage is located on the banks of a river or lake, then simply lower the hose there and connect it to the pumping station. Such a source is great for watering, but it is not suitable for drinking and cooking. In addition, you must obtain permission to use water from a river or lake for irrigation.

You can place a tank on the site. It will collect water from the drainage system or septic tank. Such a source is perfect for watering the garden and garden, but not for drinking. In addition, the collected water may not always be enough even for technical needs, so it is necessary to bring it in by cars.

Note! The most optimal and convenient way to provide a summer cottage and a house with water is a well. It is this method that is most often found in country houses. The water from the well is quite clean, and if it is properly drilled, then there will be enough water for all needs.

Of course, this method is not without its drawbacks. The fact is that for the organization of water supply from a well, quite large costs are required. First, the help of geologists is required. It is necessary to accurately determine the location and depth of the aquifer. Of course, costs can be reduced if your neighbors have already set up such a system. You can just find out all the parameters from them. Secondly, you are unlikely to be able to drill the well yourself. Here without special equipment can't get by. In addition, the pipes themselves for the well can be quite expensive. But still, this method is considered the most reliable and popular.

Plumbing system for summer and winter

For many summer residents, names such as summer and winter plumbing are familiar. Everyone knows perfectly well that each season has its own needs for water. In the summer, the need for liquid increases significantly, because plants need it.

Summer water supply can be made stationary or collapsible, it all depends on the desire of the summer resident. In the first case, it is better to use metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes. With their help, a network of pipes is created in the country house, through which water enters the right places. Such communications can be buried in shallow trenches so that the pipes do not interfere with movement around the site.

Note! If there is no desire to lay a large number of pipes, then you can create a collapsible summer water supply. Ordinary hoses are perfect for these purposes, which are connected to water distribution points. In this case, when the cold season sets in, the hoses are simply removed to the garage or shed.

If you live in a summer cottage in winter (or visit your country house on weekends), then you also need to equip winter water supply. But such a system would require a lot of effort. First, you need to carefully consider the location of the pipes. It is worth considering the installation of access points to the water supply both in the house itself and on the site. Secondly, it is important to choose the right material and all equipment. In addition, you need to think about ways to insulate communications, otherwise the pipes will simply freeze.

Preparatory stage

If you decide to equip your country house or the entire plot stationary system water supply, the first thing to do is to think over the very layout of communications. First, the owner must decide on the source of water. As noted above, a well can be considered the best option.

After that, all the necessary equipment is thought out. If you use the water supply only for watering, then you only need a pump. If you use the system for household needs, then it is necessary to provide a water filtration and purification system, as well as devices for automatically turning on and off the pumping station.

Next, a drawing of the location of all devices and pipe laying is drawn up. The location of the water supply points to the premises and on the site itself is being considered. Also, at the stage of drawing up the scheme, it is necessary to clearly define the materials used and work out a plan for the upcoming work.

If we talk about materials, then, as a rule, polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes are used for laying water pipes. Their cross section will depend on the individual characteristics of the water supply. Here it is worth considering the pump power, water pressure, length of communications and other factors.

Particular attention should be paid to the choice of pump. The choice will depend on the source of water and your financial capabilities. For example, if you take water from a well, then you will need a submersible pump. For a well, you need to choose a deep unit. The best, but also the most expensive option, can be considered the purchase of a pumping station. Such a unit is already equipped with all the necessary devices for automation and water purification.

Work on the arrangement of the water supply system in the country

When the scheme is drawn up and all the necessary materials and devices are prepared, you can begin the work itself on creating a water supply system. The first step is to mark the laying of pipes and equipment installation sites.

Then trenches are dug for laying communications. Here it is important to maintain the depth correctly, it should be below the freezing level of the soil (if you are going to use the water supply in winter period).

Do not forget about the place for laying the armored cable from which the pump will be powered. It can be laid in the same trench with pipes or make a separate line. If the water source is located near the house, then it is better to make an air line.

Note! Connection of pumping equipment must be carried out using a separate machine, the power of which meets the requirements of the equipment operating instructions.

Next is the installation and connection of the pump. Everything will depend on the chosen source of water. In each case, the installation of pumping equipment, and, accordingly, the procedure for connecting it, will be different.

After installing the pumping equipment, the water pipes are connected. Then the tightness and performance of the entire system is checked. After that, you can fill up the trenches.

About warming

If you are going to use the water supply system in the winter, then you should think about the insulation of communications and all equipment. Without such additional protection plumbing will not work.

In order to receive water during the winter period, the following rules must be observed during installation:

  • The depth of pipe laying should be below the freezing level of the soil. This indicator can be obtained from construction companies or obtained information in special directories.
  • Conduct pipe insulation. Various materials can be used for these purposes. The main thing is that they easily endure the impact of aggressive environments and do not rot. Quite often, mineral or glass wool is used as a heater. Recently, a new way to protect pipes from freezing has appeared - this is polystyrene foam shell. Such material tightly fits the pipes, is easy to install and does not rot. You can also use a heating cable, but this method will require additional costs during operation.
  • In addition to pipes, it is necessary to without fail insulate the equipment used, as well as the source of water. If a wooden well is used as such, then additional thermal insulation is not needed. And here concrete structures must be insulated. As a rule, a pit is dug around the source of water to a depth below the freezing level of the soil. Then it is filled with thermal insulation material.

If the whole system is done correctly and the insulation is done, then the plumbing will work smoothly. But, nevertheless, during abnormal cold weather it is better to take advice from specialists. During this period, it is better to leave the tap open. A small trickle of water will create movement in the pipes, which will prevent the water from freezing.

Many owners of country houses start building a country house only after they have brought water to the site. Even during the construction of a frame country house, in which it seems that water is not needed anywhere, there will always be a place for concrete and mortars for "gravy", "grease", foundation construction work, which means water will also be required. In addition, water, as the basis of life, will always be found when using our 6 acres for its intended purpose. Watering the garden and garden, washing the car, paving slabs which the yard is paved, and of course own wash. So the supply of water to the summer cottage is a paramount issue - that is why in this article we will try to consider the maximum number of issues related to the water supply of the summer cottage and the plot.

If a central water supply system passes near the site, the solution of the problem is not always significantly simplified. Soviet water pipelines are dilapidated and almost completely worn out (recently, when replacing an old water supply system, a comrade dug up a cast-iron inlet pipe with the stamp of 57 - the cast iron literally crumbled into pieces in his hands). And the new plumbing modern Russia they are laid extremely rarely, it is very expensive, and in order to achieve this, one has to apply almost directly to the President (everyone probably remembers the story of the woman who turned to him for help in this matter).

Therefore, in order not to depend on someone's goodwill and use water as much as necessary, the summer resident has only two options: a well or wells, although, by the way, many experienced gardeners combine both options - it turns out even more solid savings.

From the list of solutions to the issue of country water supply, we excluded the use of natural reservoirs in advance - you yourself know what kind of ecology, it can be scary to use not only for the kitchen and for irrigation, and despite the fact that the Slavs have always tried to build dwellings near the water, they are far away from the dachas not everyone cares.

Criteria for choosing the type of country water supply and water supply

Here, as in the well-known proverb, you need to measure everything seven times, that is, calculate in advance how much water you will need for normal living at the dacha of the whole family, and do this even with a small margin.

The calculation should be made taking into account all points of water consumption and water intake, taking into account the amount of their constant use by all family members. The most water-consuming objects should also be taken into account - a sauna, a bathhouse, a swimming pool in the country, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site allotted for growing vegetables, orchard which in some regions is now difficult to grow without irrigation.

With each liter of water counted in water consumption, the proposed future source of water supply should also become more abundant.

When locating a water supply source, be sure to take into account the fact that every ten meters of the pipeline will reduce the pump head by 1 meter. This is necessary so that water can be delivered to the most remote corners of the site, garden.

With a small flow of water - for example, if you use the house only as a summer home and a place to relax, you can make a shaft well. It is easy to build, relatively inexpensive, and all the work on its device is easy to do with your own hands. It is fed with water by ground water, the depth of which ranges from 4 to 15 meters.

The device of a mine well is the simplest: a cap above the ground, underground reinforced concrete rings or a frame made of wooden beams, usually 25 cm thick.

Mine of such country well should be deepened into the aquifer by 3, and even better by four meters. At the bottom of the shaft well, soybeans of sand, gravel, crushed stone, each of which should be 20-25 centimeters thick, are alternately poured, and later they will act as a natural filter to purify the incoming water. Many, in addition to the bottom flow of water, also make holes in the concrete rings so that it comes from the sides. After that, a submersible pump is installed at the bottom.

The amount of water that a shaft-type well can provide cannot, of course, be calculated in advance. Whether it will be possible to do this after its construction - for this, the initial volume of water that has entered it by gravity is calculated, after which it is pumped out with a pump and the time is measured after which it will be filled again to the previous mirror.

In principle, it is always enough for a normal water supply of a summer house, they also dry up extremely rarely, in my practice of a “shabashnik” this happened only a few times, and even then after pumping out the water and cleaning and disinfecting the well, the water began to flow again.

If the groundwater is deep.

If a suitable aquifer is located at a depth of more than 15 meters and deeper, then the option with a well is eliminated, in which case a well will have to be drilled. They are drilled "on sand" and "on limestone". Let's explain:

Drilling a well in sand is much faster, much cheaper, and so much easier that if you borrow a tool from someone, even an inexperienced person can handle this job.

To construct a well in the sand, only a pump, a filter mesh, and a steel casing with a diameter of 125-133 mm will be needed.

Drilling a well "on the sand" takes no more than two days. Such a well will provide you with a volume of water equal to a cube per hour. This is not much, but it is enough for most site owners.

Among the disadvantages of drilling a well “on sand”, it can be noted that the water from it is not very clean, and, therefore, the well will “silt up” over time. As a rule, even if it is not used very intensively, the life of the well “on sand” is 4-5 years.

Artesian well or limestone well it is expensive, it takes a long time, 90% of summer residents will not be able to drill it on their own, but ... It serves for a long time, from 30 to 75 years (depending on the amount and concentration of suspensions), it can give out "to the mountain" from 5 to 100 cubic meters of water per hour ( at a depth of 30 meters).

Drilling artesian wells or wells "on limestone"

The most commonly used method is to run the casing to the limestone layer through the clay layers. The next stage is the “opening” of the limestone layer, which is drilled with the so-called “open hole”, to the very aquifer.

In order to avoid damage to the rock through which surface water can penetrate deep into, plugging is used, which consists in pouring a small volume of cement-sand mortar through a special steel pipe under the limestone layer. There is such a peculiar filling of cracks through which contaminated surface water could get into the "artesian".

By the way:

This type of wells is even required to obtain a special "well passport".

Using the so-called European well drilling technology (so-called because the same technology was used a long time ago in some regions of the USSR), the well device is of a two-pipe nature. The first pipe with a large diameter stands on the limestone itself, after which a well is drilled with a final, working diameter. In order to avoid contamination of the artesian well with surface water, a compactonite clay sealing plug is made between the two types of used pipes.

Such a well will cost more than an ordinary one-pipe well by more than 50%. As a rule, several neighbors drill them together, but even that comes out all the same expensive. Their very existence at such a cost is explained very high quality water.

Lifting water from a well or well

So, we got to the rise of water from a well or well. To establish the supply of water from a not very deep mine well, the vast majority of summer residents use surface pumps. The main condition and application is the distance from the water source to the house: in most designs of such pumps, it cannot be more than 50 meters (or rather, it can - there will be no sense).

If the well is deep, or a filter well is used to extract water, the same surface pumps, but already ejector ones. More often, submersible well pumps are used, which can easily “master” a distance of 40 meters (depth).

Well, if you are a happy owner of an artesian well, then you will have to use a submersible borehole pump, which is quite capable of lifting water from a depth of 100 meters.

If there is a desire to automate the whole thing, then you will have to resort to buying a CAB (autonomous water supply system), which consists directly of the pump itself, a hydraulic accumulator and a control pressure switch. The thing is great but expensive for many.

Pros and cons of different methods of extracting water

1. mine well. (Number 1 on the drawing-scheme)

The work is labor intensive. Despite the fact that much of its construction can be done with your own hands, you will have to call in equipment and assistants, at least at the stage of digging, removing the earth from the well space and lowering concrete rings there.

The advantages of the design of a shaft well are obvious: the possibility self repair, cleaning and disinfection as such a need arises (it may not occur for decades - it all depends on the place). It is recommended to resort to a shaft structure in dachas and areas with a close level of groundwater.

2. What is driving or otherwise Abyssinian well.(Number 2 on the drawing-scheme)

This is a design in which a steel pipe is hammered into the ground until it reaches the underground water table. On its lower link there is a filter and a head with holes made in it, through which water will actually get inside this very steel pipe, and be pumped out from there by a pump.

3. What is well chamber. (Number 3 on the drawing-scheme)

The option that people move to the dacha for permanent residence and give their apartment (or rent) to the young is not uncommon now - therefore, water is constantly needed. In this case, a well chamber is built to protect electrical appliances from the effects of precipitation. The chamber is easy to build with your own hands from the same concrete rings or blocks with maximum waterproofing. Cover required.

4. What is drilling well(Number 4 on the drawing-scheme)

This is such a water supply device when a well is drilled to the groundwater table. Then, to a depth of 7-8 meters, an ordinary sewer pipe(115 millimeters in diameter), after which, using a filter segment (such blue polyethylene pipes), water enters the pipe and climbs up.

Water supply from a well - both cold and hot: how to do it?

If there is already a well in the dacha (maybe dug with your own hands or maybe left over from the previous owners), then at a relatively low cost, you can organize not only cold, but also hot water supply at home. In our case, an inexpensive submersible pump "Aquarius" was used to lift the water. The pipe exit from the well is waterproofed with silicone and cement. The distance from the well to the house is 5-6 m. So that there is no stagnation of water in the system, a valve is placed at the lowest level of the network.

We conduct water with our own hands - step by step

1. Using a cable, lower the pump into the well, avoiding tension on the power cable and supply hose. Fixed the cable to the surface. A cap for water intake was installed on the supply hose.

2. We supply water to the house through a polyethylene pipe stretched along the bottom of a trench 50 cm deep. At the same time, a second pipe was laid, inside which an electric cable was passed.

3. The supply pipe was connected to - the further part of the water supply using a check valve to prevent the water from draining back into the well. A mechanical (coarse) filter was installed.

4. Bring the supply hose into the house. A pressure switch, a pressure gauge and a fine filter were installed on the inlet dispensing unit. Connected everything to the mains.

5. After being cleaned and filtered, the water enters the accumulator, which supports the right pressure in a pressurized water supply system, saving the time to turn on the pump.

6. From the distributing unit, wiring was carried out along the walls of polypropylene pipes. The bathroom has a shower, sink and water heater.

More about the device of the well.

Every summer resident who is puzzled by the question of its construction should know the requirements for the “correct” well.

Often on suburban area, not connected to a centralized water supply, cottage owners have to drill a well or dig a well. The task is not easy. But even in the event of a power outage, the well will provide continuous water supply.

With a relatively small depth of groundwater in the area (up to 40 m), shaft wells are constructed, water enters them through the bottom of the well (90%) and partially through loose wall joints (10%). The usual depth of such a well is 10-15 meters.

Signs and signs of the close occurrence of groundwater

1. The surest sign (unfortunately of course) is water in the basement, cellar.

2. The proximity of natural water bodies - lakes, rivers.

3. Dense evening fog in the absence of water bodies.

4. Juicy dense grass even in hot summers, not withering in the heat.

5. Plants in the area that need a lot of moisture.

6. Midges and mosquitoes in the air after sunset

7. Mochar on the site and covering the ground in some places with a light layer of moss.

How to start making a well

The best time to dig a well is autumn. In autumn, as a rule, the groundwater level is the lowest. Otherwise, you can “under-dig”, and the well will come out dry.

If the site is hilly and has elevations and bumps in the landscape, then the highest place is better for arranging the well - it sounds strange, but it's right, and here's why.

According to the laws of gravity, surface water, which most often pollutes the well, will flow away from the well, and not towards it, therefore the water in the well will be cleaner. Avoid the banks of rivers and places with a sharp change in terrain due to possible fluctuations in the level of groundwater. Minimum distance from pollution sources ( cesspool, parking, toilet) - 25 m, from the house - 4-5 m - this requirement must be observed.

Despite technological advances, well digging is still manual labor. The walls are traditionally reinforced with wood, concrete, stone or brick. The sinking process has become much simpler with the advent of reinforced concrete rings (more often they use rings "KS 10-9" or similar ones with a height of 0.9 meters and a diameter of 1 meter).

The initial ring is mounted on the bottom of the prepared pit, the next ones are added from above one by one as the soil is excavated from under the bottom one, which gradually settles. One or two rings are installed in the aquifer. After that, the joints are sealed with mortar, and the bottom is covered with a layer of gravel or gravel 20-30 cm thick - it serves as a filter for incoming water.

The space around the mine is covered with gravel and sand, and starting from the depth of freezing of the soil, a so-called “castle” is made of clay, which is needed to prevent surface and especially melt water from entering the well.

Packed clay is an excellent water seal, so additional waterproofing is not needed. On top of the clay, a concrete pavement is made with a hard surface and a slight slope for drainage. A well shaft made of concrete rings is absolutely waterproof for groundwater, so with proper construction, you will always have clean water in the well.

Do-it-yourself well - drawing 1 and photo

On the diagram-drawing in numbers:

  • cap
  • rings
  • ventilation tube
  • blind area
  • clay castle
  • aquifer
  • waterproof soil
  • reservoir

In the photo (on the right), in numbers, the stages of building a well from concrete rings:

  1. Laying the first ring
  2. Installation of the second ring
  3. Sealing with mortar
  4. backfilling

We make the head of the well

As soon as the last ring is installed and the water level in the well is sufficient, we take up the construction of the ground part. Original and beautifully designed headband ( outer part well) will be a worthy decoration of your site.

The head should protrude above the ground by about 1 m, and the shaft itself should be closed with a lid. A roof is erected over it in the form of a closed house, a canopy or a gazebo. A well-made roof will protect the well from dust, precipitation, foreign objects and leaves.

Gates are used to lift water various designs, manual or mechanical pumps. Cranes - lifting devices popular in villages - are too bulky for small suburban areas, therefore they are rarely used here.

Shaft well - installation of a "log house underground"

The installation of an ordinary, mine well with walls made of timber or logs is done by simply digging the soil under the log house.

Logs for logging a well must be taken of high quality, waste from the bathhouse or other residues after construction will not work.

Be sure to check the logs for mold, wood beetle grinder, fungus, etc. The forest should be taken only dry and nothing else - the opinion “it will get wet anyway” is erroneous.

Typically, the thickness of the forest for the installation of a well log house according to the mine type ranges from 20-22 centimeters. I think that the forest intended for these purposes should be cleared of excess bark and knots.

To facilitate installation, the crowns of the log house must be assembled on the surface by making the usual log marks. After that, the crowns are disassembled in a strict sequence, so as not to confuse the queue during assembly, and lowered into the shaft, where they are tightly adjusted on the spot.

At the next stage, in the middle of each of the 4 sides of the log house, a sample of land is made by 25-30 centimeters, after which the pores at the corners of the log house remove the supports in turn. The supports released from under the corners are brought to the places where the soil was chosen from and fixed there, again, in turn. Now they dig out the soil at the corners of the log house, as a result of which the structure lowers, and this work must be repeated until you reach the groundwater level.

The gap that is formed between the walls of the log house and the pit (from the outside) is covered with the same soil that was taken out of the pit and rammed as tightly as possible. After that, you can go down into the well shaft and trim its walls.

What should be the taste of water from a wooden well

The taste of water in wooden wells largely depends on the wood. It is better to choose alder, linden or birch: the flavor will be almost invisible. True, these breeds are durable. A log house made from undried pine will give the water a resinous flavor. And the water from the aspen well is slightly bitter at first. Most of all, larch is used for the construction of wells. She, like oak, does not give any "suspicious" smells and serves 20-25 years.

Well care

Inspect and, if necessary, clean your well, it is necessary to do this according to the recommendations of the old “well affairs” masters at least twice a year.

Garbage can also be removed with a bucket, but it is better to prepare a long pole in advance with a hook on one side and a stack like a net on the other.

We think it is unnecessary to say that one should not climb into the well alone.

Before descending into the well, check its gas contamination.

The general rule of working in a well is to check its gas content, it is always recommended to do it, regardless of whether there is a gas outlet or a swamp nearby. The easiest way is a candle on a string: it burns evenly - everything is fine, the flame fluctuates and gradually fades - there is gas, but it is not much, and if it goes out, then there is a lot of gas and you can’t go down.

If the well is old...

In practice, if you bought a plot with a well on the secondary market, then you cannot use the well - it must be cleaned, you never know what the old owners dropped there (well, if not on purpose - people are different, especially in our time).

An old well should be thoroughly cleaned by pumping water out of it. Pump out water gradually: after lowering the water level by 30 centimeters - half a meter, start cleaning the walls, then pump out the same volume of water again and continue cleaning, and repeat until you reach the bottom, which needs to be cleaned especially carefully.

After cleaning, the well and the outer house are disinfected with a 10-15% bleach solution: the walls are impregnated with it 2-3 times. Then the remains of the solution are poured into the well, mixed with water and in this state for 24-48 hours. At the same time, the head of the well is carefully covered with a tarpaulin so that chlorine does not evaporate. The first water that fills the well after cleaning must be pumped out.

On a note:

When digging a well, the approach of the aquifer is determined by a noticeable cooling: the air temperature in the well drops by a couple of degrees, and mini-fontanels appear on the walls of the mine.

A well is a sacred place, a place of almost all peoples. For Christians, on the eve of major church holidays (Easter, Christmas, Epiphany), the water in the well was considered miraculous. They washed themselves with it, consecrated buildings, kneaded bread on it. Children were washed with water from a new well so that they would not cry.

The well requires a serious approach. In the village, the “well” traditions are still observed: do not arrange gatherings and picnics near the well, do not smoke or swear near it, do not give water from your well to ill-wishers and strangers, treat the well with respect.

Pumps for summer cottages - how to choose the right one, what they generally are

Of course, the type of pump for water supply to a country house and plot will depend on the type of water source and its parameters in the form of the number of points that consume water and such characteristics as diameter, total volume of water, and, of course, depth. The concentration level of suspended matter in water is also a very important characteristic.

You will actually have to choose based on the above of three types - a borehole pump, a pump for a well or an automatic water supply station.

The simplest and cheapest solution is submersible well pump(of course, if you chose a well of one of the types considered above for the water supply of the dacha).

Such a pump can easily provide a small country house with precious moisture, and of course watering.

Its design is simple: stainless steel body, motor, start relay, centrifugal pump.

It does not require installation as such - tie it to a stronger string and lower it into the well, not reaching the bottom 1 meter.

A submersible well pump can pump out up to 6 cubic meters per hour from a depth of up to 10 meters (we don’t even honor manufacturers’ assurances about 30 meters or more, they make the sellers in stores angry, because pumps are often returned back with scandals, they simply don’t pull such depths ).

Some brands produce submersible pumps with a base - they can be placed on the clean bottom of the tank.

Also, one of the advantages of submersible pumps is the fact that they are practically insensitive to water quality, they are equipped with a filter at the inlet. These words are supported by the fact that for many years the masters "wells" carry the same pump with them to pump out the first muddy water from the customer's well, and only after that I connect the master's pump when the water is already clean.

The cooling of submersible pumps is natural, due to the pumping of cold transported water through itself.

This type of pump is quiet, does not require maintenance (it works according to the principle: it is broken - it is cheaper to buy a new one).

Of the minuses, relatively (compared to borehole pumps) large dimensions. The consumption of electricity, and the lack of automation - will pump until you turn it off.

Downhole pumps (deep pumps)

Actually, everything is said in the name - they are needed for lifting and supplying water from wells, from great depths up to 40 meters inclusive.

Choose exactly knowing the depth of the well, and having calculated at least approximately your need for water. A well passport with a characteristic of the number of liters of water per hour will help you and, of course, advice from the one who drilled the well for you (if you did not drill it yourself).

They don’t buy a borehole pump with a margin - if the water is pumped out earlier, it will idle, and this is for borehole pumps unacceptable load and a moment that largely determines their service life.

The dimensions are very compact, allowing them to extract water even from very narrow wells. The water pressure is excellent - on the spot, you can water a third of our standard plots of 6 acres.

Additionally.

Most perfect option water supply using pumps is, of course, automatic, arranged with the help of a pump, a hydraulic accumulator, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, shut-off and check valves. With this design, there is enough water for everything and for a washing machine and a dishwasher and for washing a car and for watering and showering.

home station

Pumping station operating in automatic mode most The best decision for autonomous water supply of summer cottages. It replaces the submersible pump and supplies water from 10 meter water storage tanks. It has the already mentioned accumulator, relays, mesh filters, etc.

The core of the system is a pump, it can be either centrifugal or vortex.

Vortex will provide smaller dimensions than centrifugal, it costs less and gives more pressure. The main disadvantage of the vortex pump is that it does not tolerate even the slightest water pollution and quickly fails.

ANS with a centrifugal pump is “indifferent” to water quality - it pumps what it has, it can be equipped with an ejector, which further enhances its power and will allow pumping water from 20-25, and in some cases, more than meters.

Cons: Very noisy.

There are also many other options for a separate, autonomous water supply, given the annual improvement of manufacturers in this area. Every year, water filtration methods are improved, the productivity of pumps is growing, and, therefore, it is always possible to increase the depth of a future well to improve the amount of water.

How to calculate the amount of water you need.

Daily and weekly water costs can be determined by knowing the flow rate at all water intake points. The water consumption norms provided for various plumbing devices and appliances will help you with this.

On a note:

Watering the lawn will require at least three cubic meters of water per square meter. At the same time, water consumption can either increase or decrease due to the method of irrigation - fan, drip, automatic irrigation by time of day.

Irrigation of lawns and flower beds requires 3-6 cubic meters of water per square meter, while the consumption also depends on the method of irrigation and the intensity of irrigation.

Calculation of water pressure - formula

To calculate the pump head you need, use the formula below:

"Htr \u003d Hgeo + S + Hsvob".

"Ngeo"- the height of the pipeline entering the building relative to the water level in the well (which must be indicated in the well certificate).

S- the sum of all pressure losses, taking into account friction in the water supply and other parts of the system.

Nsvob- the pressure that is needed at the point of entry into the house, taking into account the provision at the highest and most remote point of the water consumption of the pressure value (0.5 atmospheres).

Interesting fact:

Water-lifting devices, consisting of a wheel and trays and jugs attached to it, were known in antiquity to many peoples. The wheel rotated by the force of the river, the water scooped up by jugs moved by gravity along the trays over long distances. Later, the simplest pumps appeared, made of wood with a movable piston for drawing water from a well. In the first century BC, a Greek scientist constructively described the first fire extinguishing pump.

  1. Be sure to compare those parameters and water quality characteristics with those recommended by the pump manufacturer in the REU.
  2. Make sure that the pump is equipped with protection against power surges, "idling", tight, resistant to water hammer.
  3. Be sure to read the instructions for installing the pump and its installation - even if you do not install it yourself, you will control the situation when the installers start installing it.
  4. A guarantee for a pump and a service is far from empty for them and must be - pumps work under heavy load and their failure is not such a rarity.
  5. Pumps with plastic case I do not advise you to take it, in general, when buying, pay close attention to the quality of the workmanship of the case.

The principle of operation of the drainage pump

An impeller with blades is fixed on the drive shaft of the drainage pump. Through the suction grate at the bottom of the pump, the pumped water enters the rotating vane channel. Here, entrained by the impeller into rotation, it acquires a significant speed and radial (from the center to the periphery) pressure. At the outlet of the impeller, the liquid leaves the pump in an intense flow through the nozzle.

float switch

This is a device that is used as a pumped water level sensor to control the operation of the pump. The use of a float switch prevents the pump from running without water (dry-running protection), thereby protecting it from failure.

Built into the float circuit breaker, which (when the pumped water drops below a certain level and the float lowers) opens the contacts in the power circuit of the pump motor, thereby interrupting its operation. When the water level rises, the float rises and when a certain level is reached, the engine power circuit closes and the pump resumes operation.

We decorate the well - do-it-yourself decorative wooden head

Mine wells assembled from gray concrete rings naturally will not improve the appearance of a summer cottage. Therefore, somehow you will have to ennoble this business with your own hands. Hiring a carpenter or joiner because of such a trifle is reluctant - after all, the process is creative, and you want to fulfill the idea on your own.

And in the case of decorative well(these can often be seen in rural-style or “country-style” cottages) is even simpler - earthworks are not required at all, since the well is installed directly on the ground. Rack anchors driven into the ground will prevent the structure from tipping over in strong winds. The role of a well reservoir will be played by an ordinary barrel for irrigation. Water is supplied to the container using a hose laid in one of the racks, and a pump. A bucket on a chain plays a decorative role in the design. There is no need to scoop water from above, bending over under the weight of the bucket: an additionally installed drain valve at the bottom of the well solves the problem. It is enough to substitute the container and turn the handle!

Stage one: preparation of wooden blanks

1. Draw a horizontal projection of an octagonal well on a piece of drawing paper on a scale of 1:1.

2. From a bar with a section of 38 x 68 mm, cut pieces 35.5 cm long on the outside. Cut the ends at a 45° angle.

3. Unfold trial parts right on the plan. If the dimensions are correct, you can start cutting. A total of 88 parts are needed.

4. For the threaded rods on which the log parts are assembled, drill the segments through from one end.

Stage 2: Assembly of the well

1. Put the bars of the first row on the rods equipped with nuts and washers. Lubricate the joints (ends) with glue and additionally strengthen with self-tapping screws.

2. Lay row after row, in each subsequent row shifting the bars relative to the rod. Also use an additional glue joint between rows.

3. After laying the last row, saw off the threaded rods flush and file them. Washers and nuts "drown", after countersinking the holes.

4. In one of the segments of the upper row, pre-drill a hole d = 26 mm to install a hose that supplies water to the barrel.

5. One of the racks will hide the water supply. Make a groove for the hose in it: make two parallel cuts circular saw, then take out the wood with a chisel.

6. Attach the posts to the sump body with four mounting bolts (8 x 140 mm). Drill holes d = 8.5 mm in advance, insert the nuts inside.

7. After fixing the stands, install the water supply. Since the water pressure will be low, simple plastic hose fittings will suffice.

8. The parapet of the well is formed by bars laid horizontally and beveled at the ends by 22.5 °. In two segments, first make cuttings for the racks.

9. The rods alternately pass through one of the elements of every second row. Details are strung in a checkerboard pattern.

Stage 3: Installation of the roof

1. Basic structure the roof consists of two triangular "pediments" screwed together from bars. For added strength, add an adhesive joint.

2. Connect the gables with six bars - they will serve as a crate for the roof. Compose the skate from two angled and glued bars.

3. Lay a roof over the crate - a simple or tongue-and-groove board. It will be possible to lay the existing roofing material on top.

4. In order for the roof structure to rest securely on the racks, stiffen the corners on both sides with braces. To do this, chamfer the bars by 45° and screw them on.

5. Make the axis of the gate from a thin log d = 9 cm. For the root necks, use round rods d = 2.8 cm. For the crank, take a bar 23 cm long and drill it (hole diameter 2.8 cm).

6. Install the main journals with waterproof glue in drilled holes. From the side of the handle, release the neck behind the rack by about 5 cm. Put the crank on this outlet, after lubricating it with glue. When the glue dries, additionally strengthen the junction with a dowel.

7. Strengthen the gable boards by sawing them off with a bevel from the side of the ridge. A small protrusion of the boards towards the roof is designed to hide the edge of the roofing material.

8. If the well is “fake” and only masks the water column, then the design of the gate is similar to the real one, but plays a purely decorative role: the root necks passed through the racks are glued tightly into them and cannot rotate.

Do-it-yourself summer water supply in the country

The water supply in the dacha, where they live in the summer, and the rest of the time they come for the weekend (or less often), differs from the water supply of the cottage. First, in the house where they stay constantly and all year round, the temperature is always above zero, which cannot be said about the dachas. Secondly, when installing a water supply system outside the city, it is necessary to provide for the supply of water not only to the house, but also to the bathhouse, summer kitchen, greenhouse. Thirdly, summer water supply is used mainly in summer, and is not used in winter. Depending on your needs and the frequency of visiting the cottage, a stationary or collapsible water supply system is selected. The second option is as simple as possible in the device and consists of simple hoses lying directly on the ground. In the autumn they are put away for storage in a barn.

Choosing pipes

For a stationary summer water supply scheme, pipes are laid in the ground, and only water taps are brought to the surface. The choice of pipes comes between two types - polyethylene (HDPE) and polypropylene (PP). HDPE pipes are cheaper, but it is unlikely that it will be possible to save much, since the components for them will be expensive. Polypropylene pipes are more expensive, but they have a lower cost of related materials. True, for the installation of polypropylene pipes you will need a special soldering iron.

How to avoid freezing plumbing

Both polyethylene and polypropylene pipes frost resistant. For the possible winter use of the water supply, they are placed in the ground to a depth of 1.5 meters (below the freezing level of the soil in middle lane). If you plan to use water only in summer, one meter of depth is enough. It makes sense to dig a trench only to a residential building - pipes can be laid directly on the surface in the garden and vegetable garden.

The insulation system will save the water supply during winter use, if you do not want to deepen it. Special thermal insulation of pipes and a polyethylene corrugated casing will allow laying pipes to a depth of up to 30 cm. Another option is laying a heating cable, which will make it possible to place pipes directly on the surface.

The optimal diameter of the pipes: 15 mm is usually enough in the house, pipes with an inner diameter of 20 mm or 25 mm are used for plumbing, the inlet pipe must be at least 32 mm.

Calculation

Before buying all necessary details study the place where the water will come from (the diameter of the valve, if it is already there, must match the diameter of the pipes). Next, determine where the outlets will be - for example, at the greenhouse, near the platform for the car, etc. Then draw a diagram on the site plan - how you will run the pipes from the water exit point. The plan will allow you to more accurately calculate the number of parts needed and help you communicate with the seller.

Drainage Tips

  • When connecting a water heater, provide a tee and a tap for discharging used water with a hose nozzle
  • To drain more than 50 liters from a water heater, provide a branch that will not go into a septic tank or loss, otherwise you will have to dump water into the street, which is not only not aesthetically pleasing, but also inconvenient.
  • Traditional ceramic or rubber sealed faucets are less sensitive to residual water freezing.

On a note:

The main disadvantage of a permanent water supply, which is used only in summer, is the correct slope of all pipes of the system, namely, all of them must go with a slope to the tie-in connection.

As a rule, the tie-in is the lowest point of the water supply, usually a valve is made here, which is designed to drain water for the winter or in case of repair of the water supply.

Summer water supply does not have to be autonomous (from a well or well) - it can also be connected to the main water supply (if any). In this case, there is no need to drill a well or dig a well, save electricity, but there is a monthly fee for the use of water.

Conservation of plumbing for the winter

If the dacha is not heated in winter, then you will have to drain the water from the system every time before a long departure, absence.

Draining will be more convenient if, in front of the check valve of the pipe through which water enters the house, install wiring, a tee and a tap for emergency draining.

The same tap will be needed at the lowest point of each pipe branch in the house. Remember to remove water from washing machines, toilet bowls, etc. devices. In these cases, simply draining the water is not enough - the units will need to be turned over or blown through with a compressor. The water from the toilet should be pumped out (or filled with salt) so that in winter it does not freeze and the toilet does not burst. The sequence of actions is as follows: first, the pipeline supplying it is freed from water, then the liquid is removed from the water heater, and then the washing machine and plumbing are drained. After draining, the residual water in the expansion tank membrane tank should not damage it when freezing.

Polypropylene plumbing

First, all threaded connections are assembled, then they are attached to the pipe. The most difficult thing is to assemble the threaded connections so that water does not leak from them. In a threaded connection, one part has an external thread, the other has an internal thread. A fum tape is carefully wound onto the external thread (6-7 layers are enough, but if the thread is completely bad, then more is possible).

Then they screw and tighten the parts, pressing them tightly against each other, making sure not to skew. After that, you can gently tighten the details with a key, without fanaticism, of course.

To fix the pipe in the coupling, it is evenly cut with a hacksaw.

After loosening the clamping nut as much as possible, insert the pipe tightly. The pipe, which has gone into the coupling all the way, continues to be pushed further - another two centimeters. When the pipe finally stops, tighten the clamping nut.

Assembling a summer plumbing system in the country with your own hands - a description of the photo

1. We measure and cut the pipes, clean their ends from burrs, take welding machine.

2. Welding of polypropylene pipes. The technology is simple: the element of the apparatus is heated to the melting temperature of the pipe, a sleeve is put on one sleeve, a pipe is inserted into the other. The pipe and coupling are melted, they are removed from the apparatus and inserted into each other. Frozen, they form a single whole.

3. Install a tee - branching water into the house and the garden. Let's make a conclusion to the crane. If in the future such a water supply is planned to be finalized and, for example, increased, put a plug.

4. We put the coupling nut on the tape, we screw a plastic pipe with a tap onto it. It will be very convenient with its help to preserve the water supply for the winter.

5. Entering water into the house. The water inlet hole was made more than 2 years ago when the kitchen and sink were installed. The drain then went into the pit.

6. Ready plumbing in the house with a flow filter. In total, at least two filters are needed - a standard mesh filter and a flow filter with one container.

Water analysis, purification and filtration

Sanitary services monitor the quality of drinking water in the city. Outside the city, all responsibility lies with the owners of summer cottages. How to know if water is safe or full harmful substances harmful to health? Laboratory analysis of water will give a detailed answer, what exactly we will drink under the guise of a clear liquid. Water sampling for research will be done either by a specialist or by you.

The most polluting water is runoff from poorly insulated pit latrines. From there we get bacteria and viruses, worm eggs. Domestic drains will give water surface-active substances (surfactants), salts, complex aromatic hydrocarbons, phosphates, nitrates and nitrites. Mineral and organic fertilizers add calcium, carbonates, sulfates, chlorides. And after washing your own car on the site, you will receive oil products, particles of lead, cadmium and other heavy metals (they are abundant in the soil along highways). And if we can wash the car at a car wash, then what about the water after washing clothes and other inevitable drains? Exit - install available system filtering and reliable treatment facilities. By the way, when ordering filtration or sewage installations, the company you contact will most likely offer you to do a water analysis for free.

Where to do?

Laboratory research with quantitative indicators of harmful substances is carried out at the sanitary and epidemiological station, in scientific organizations or specialized laboratories. A protocol with the results and a conclusion on the suitability of water will be given to you in 1-2 days. It is better to do a complete analysis during the initial examination of the source, and then conduct an annual preventive examination.

What are water tests?

  • basic (general assessment of the state of water according to 7-16 main indicators)
  • complete (about 40 indicators)
  • specific (for individual indicators at the request of the customer)

How to send water for analysis

1. Sterile container for bacteriological analysis (purchased at a pharmacy or sterilized by steam ourselves).

2. We take a sample “under the neck”, so that water does not come into contact with the strongest natural oxidizing agent - oxygen.

3. For chemical analysis, water can be brought in a clean plastic bottle from mineral water, rinsed with a pre-tested sample.

4. Before drawing water from the well, pump the system for at least 10 minutes.

Plot column

Inside light construction garden, decorative water column, between two wooden racks, a galvanized pipe and a threaded fitting are hidden, only the drain tap on the front side remains visible. In fact, the column is a holder for a pipe, water to which is supplied in any available way: from a well or from central water supply. The panel on the rear side is easily unscrewed and removed, so the supply "pipeline" is always available for repair.

The only difficulty is that the construction will require a concrete foundation with a depth of about 80 cm! The column itself is assembled elementarily. Two posts with a section of 7 x 7 cm are attached to the foundation with steel anchors at a distance of 7 cm from each other (special grooves in the anchors - the bends of the holders on both sides - provide a sufficient distance between the soil and the tree). Communications are laid between the racks and closed on both sides wood paneling. It remains to cover the "column" with a lid that protects from precipitation - and you're done, such a Russian!

materials

As a material for a wooden column, wooden blocks section 7 x 7 cm and a panel 22 cm wide and 20 mm thick in pressure impregnated pine. In principle, a protective coating is not required for such a material, but you need to be prepared for the fact that after a few years the wood will turn gray.

Every summer resident, especially accustomed to comfort, is aware of the importance of running water in a house outside the city. It is hard to imagine worthy care of the territory near the estate without it, and the use of household appliances becomes impossible. To build a water supply system in the country with your own hands is within the power of every owner of a country estate!

How is an autonomous water supply

The installation of a water supply system is ideally considered in the process of creating a house project. At this stage, a clear action plan is drawn up, a diagram of the pipeline and mechanisms is drawn. The estimate must be preliminarily calculated, the purchase made required material and equipment. It is best that a separate, small room on the first floor of the house, with an area of ​​2-3 m 2. If you install an input node and technical devices exactly so, then during operation it will be convenient for you to regulate the water supply and, if necessary, repair the system.

So, the water supply system consists of the following links:

  1. The pipeline is complete with shut-off valves and fittings. In this case, the pipes used do not have to be metal, they can be polypropylene or metal-plastic.
  2. Mechanisms for supplying water - a submersible pump or a pumping station.
  3. Devices for regulating the pressure in the system. It can be a relay, a pressure gauge and an expansion tank.
  4. Equipped with automatic electrical support.

List of tools

To install a water pipe of any complexity, you will need tools such as:

  • A set of keys: gas No. 2, adjustable and wrenches - No. 17, 19, 22 and 24.
  • Pipe cutter.
  • Pencil, knife and tape measure.
  • sanding paper.
  • If you chose polypropylene pipes, then you should purchase an electric soldering iron.
  • If the pipes are metal, then a saw specially designed for this purpose is needed.
  • Hacksaw.
  • Scrap and shovel.

Before you start digging a trench, you should mark the water line on the plot. To do this, take all measurements using pegs, twine and a measuring tape.

Note! A thoughtful approach to work will help you save not only costs, but also precious time, so carefully count the number of pipes, taps, angles, valves, fittings and other important elements.

Summer plumbing

Summer water supply is a water supply system that can be used exclusively during the warm season. It is usually used for watering plantations, connecting summer shower and household needs. The operation of such a system in the winter cold is impossible. Summer water supply can be both collapsible and permanent.

The simplest installation method is to run the hoses directly on the ground. To do this, use silicone or rubber pipes interconnected by adapters. They are sold in all hardware stores. Adapters made of galvanized steel have better characteristics, but they are more expensive, so many prefer their plastic counterparts. In addition, special latches can be used as a hose connector. On one side there are some "ruffs" on which a hose is put on, and on the opposite side there is a spring-loaded connector. In one movement, you can both connect and disconnect the latch. The joint is very reliable. If you are interested in purchasing durable material, then pay attention to the thick-walled rubber hose because it is reinforced with kapron fibers. Its service life is at least 15 years.

If you prefer to create a permanent summer water supply system, then the pipes should be laid in the ground, and taps should be brought to the surface. The depth of the trench should not be large. The pipeline is covered with earth in order not to stumble over the pipes and hide them for the period of absence of the owners of the cottage.

Note! During the installation of the system, you will have to lay all pipes under a slope, which should be directed towards the connection to the main. This will be the lowest point of the plumbing system. Here you should screw on the drain valve, with it you can drain the water from the system for the winter. Otherwise, after freezing, the water will break the pipes, even if they are plastic!

Winter plumbing

The capital winter water supply system can be used all year round, regardless of whether it is cold outside or not. If there is a well on your personal plot, then the water supply can be done without difficulty. For this purpose, you will need a submersible pump. The choice of power of the device largely depends on the depth of the well from which the water supply will be organized. You can read the technical characteristics of the unit in the relevant documentation for it or by talking with a specialist.

The submersible pump is always connected to electricity. All electric wires can fit into one casing with pipes for water. So, you can prevent mechanical damage to communications and protect them from exposure to cold. High-quality installation of the plumbing system implies compliance with all of the following specifications and norms. The pipeline must be laid below the freezing level of the ground. Dig a trench about 60-100 cm deep. You will have to fill the plumbing itself with insulation, its thickness should be about 30 cm. It can be foam chips, expanded clay and other suitable insulation material. The main thing is that it is moisture resistant and durable.

Build a pit near the well, approximately 70x70 cm in size and about 1 m deep. It is needed in order to connect the pump. The walls should be laid out with boards, concrete rings or bricks. If you prefer boards, then keep in mind that they should first be treated with antiseptic preparations. The bottom can be filled with concrete or simply covered with a layer of gravel. A pipe with a special mount for the hose that extends from the pump, as well as electrical wires, should be led into the finished pit. So, you can disconnect and attach the unit if necessary, for example, for repair work. It is important to protect the pit from freezing, for this, insulate it. To create a safe connection to electricity, use sealed contact connectors or waterproof sockets.

Note! Regardless of which type of water supply you choose: summer or winter, make it so that in the event of a breakdown, the malfunction can be eliminated without completely dismantling the system.

Installation of a water supply system

To safely mount the water supply in the country, you should stock up on strength and patience. Excavated trenches should be carefully checked - whether the depth is correct, whether the bottom has been cleaned, whether the slope is correct, etc. Now you can immerse a deep pump in a well or a well.

Connect the device according to the instructions supplied with the unit. The pipe must fit the fitting to which the accumulator or pressure gauge, pressure switch is connected. After connecting the mechanisms, you will need to connect to the last output main pipe and lead her into the house along the trench. This is where the armored cable is laid, which is needed to power all the equipment. It is very important that a well with stopcocks be made at the entrance to the building, which will provide good access to the plumbing system during maintenance or repairs. Now you can start installing filters, laying plumbing directly around the house, organizing water heating and final connection.

Do you already have experience in installing plumbing in the country? Maybe you had some difficulties in the process? What helped you deal with them? Maybe you have invented an innovative way of mounting? Write us comments, your experience is valuable!

The organization of water supply and sewerage in the country is a very important issue. It is from the solution of this problem that the comfort of living in a summer house and the availability of an irrigation system for the site will depend. During the initial design, you need to determine whether you will use it in the winter or everything will be limited only to the summer. The depth of pipe laying depends on this, because at sub-zero temperatures they can burst from the presence of ice inside.

It is best to use polyethylene pipes, and the wiring diagram should be prepared in advance. It will depend on the source of water supply and the method of transporting it to the place of consumption. Installation of such a system can be done by yourself or entrusted to professionals.

How to make plumbing in the country from a well: a scheme for laying plastic pipes

Before you conduct plumbing in the country, you should decide where the water will come from. If you chose a well as a source of water supply, because of its low cost compared to a well, then the pipeline is best made underground. But first, you need to find a place where there will be enough water. To do this, using a hand drill, a recess is made up to two meters, inside which is placed drainage pump. Depending on the volume of incoming water, you can determine its power. If enough liquid is collected, then the hole is dug in diameter and concrete rings are placed inside.

The layout of the water supply in the country begins with a pipe coming out of the well, it is located at its very bottom, parallel to the ground level. After its withdrawal and sealing of the joints, you can proceed to digging trenches. A marking is made on the ground, which corresponds to a scheme thought out in advance, and the excavation begins on it.

Pipes for water supply in the country are used plastic or PVC. In the modern version, they are quite resistant to pressure drops and even withstand several freezing seasons. To create pressure in such a system, a pump must be laid, but it is placed in a separate room. The less environmental impact, the better.

The water supply scheme may include not only a country house, but also watering the site. Pipes for its organization are buried shallowly, but before the onset of frost they must be freed from water.

Winter and summer water supply in the country: differences in the device and pipe insulation

Do-it-yourself country water supply is easiest to make from hoses that will lie on the surface of the earth. In this case, it will be called summer, because at the end of autumn they are rolled up and put in the pantry until it warms up in the spring. The most convenient for connection are plastic fittings, which have special "Christmas trees" on them, the hoses are simply put on in one motion. The pipes themselves are made of durable rubber and proper care will serve you for more than one year. The main thing is to wind them in neat bays without inflection areas during storage.

Country water supply from plastic pipes is more resistant to weather conditions and may even be buried in the ground. The standard service life of such material is more than fifty years. Pipes are absolutely not subject to corrosion or other chemical influences. Do not forget that to avoid freezing, pipes should be at a level of 1-2 meters underground. In this case, the operation of the water supply will be available all year round.

If you want to avoid the hassle of digging deep trenches for winter plumbing in the country, then get an electric heating cable. True, when using it, electricity bills can increase significantly. one more easy way out from this situation, the insulation of the water supply system in the country can become. As an insulating material, merylon can be used, which has a different diameter and tightly covers the pipe with the right selection. If it is not there, then get glass wool, it is also used in hot water systems.

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Do-it-yourself water distribution in a private house and in the country

Properly executed water distribution in a city apartment or a private house provides a high level of comfort.

In a comfortable apartment, the presence of a bathroom and cold water is considered the norm.

It is impossible to do without water for irrigation in the country.

Water supply of a private house

In a private house built according to modern project, mechanisms for the delivery of cold and hot water are provided.

On the site adjacent to the house, as a rule, a certain landscape is formed and a place is allocated for a traditional vegetable garden.

These objects require abundant moisture for watering.

You can not do without water and in the bath, which must be on the estate without fail.

Water for all needs (for the bathroom, irrigation, in the bath, etc.) is taken from various sources.

Where does the water in the living quarters come from?

A person living in a city apartment does not think about how and where the water comes from in the bathroom. Similarly, in the bath, where with hot water there are no problems.

Things are different in the countryside. Here, the owner of the site, often - has to mount the piping for irrigation with his own hands.

Technically savvy summer residents use a manifold for distributing pipes and hoses, instead of the usual tees.

Each gardener, laying pipes around the site, knows from which source water comes for irrigation.

There are four main sources of water:

  • open reservoir;
  • centralized water supply network;
  • wells;
  • wells.

Wells, as sources of water, are mostly a thing of the past. They continue to be used mainly as a backup source and as a decorative element in landscape design.

In a modern private house, most often water is pumped from a well. As a rule, such a water supply scheme is used for estates that are located outside the city limits.

If the house or cottage is built in the immediate vicinity of engineering networks, then it is technically easier to "crash" into the existing highway.

In this case, significant investments in drilling and well construction will not be required.

Centralized source

If the apartment high-rise building If there is no water, then residents call the water utility control room and find out when normal water supply will resume.

In the same way, people living in a private house have to act. It is impossible to correct the situation with your own hands in such a situation. The bathroom cannot be used. Wash dishes too.

When deciding to connect to a centralized water supply network, this must be remembered.

It should also be taken into account that in this case it will not be necessary to deal with drilling a well, acquiring expensive equipment and organizational issues. There will be less hassle.

decentralized source

Among the sources of this type are rivers, lakes, wells and wells. If there is no natural reservoir in the district, then it is necessary to carry out geological research on the site.

This is done in order to find the aquifer and determine its depth. It is more convenient and cheaper to make the well located in the basement of the house.

With such an arrangement of the source, it is much easier to mount the pipeline wiring around the site, as is done in the country. In summer, a lot of water is required for irrigation and in any season it is needed in the bathhouse.

The debit of the well must be higher than the volume of water that is consumed in a private house and other places.

Current water supply schemes

How to make plumbing in a private house?

If we approach the topic in principle, then the plumbing scheme in a private house has much in common with how water is distributed in an ordinary apartment of a multi-storey building.

To do this, you can install a pump with your own hands, which creates a pressure of two to three atmospheres.

On the fifth floor and above, the water supply for the bathroom and other needs is carried out by more powerful pumps.

It follows from this comparison that plastic pipes can be used in a private house, which are more technologically advanced and much cheaper than metal pipes.

The connection scheme for water fittings is of two types:

  • collector;
  • consistent.

The sequential circuit is the simplest in terms of the principle of operation. It is often mounted in the house, and in the bath, and in the country. Installation work, in order to save money, you can do it yourself.

And in the bath, and also, if there is a need, in the apartment - the main pipe is laid. Tees crash into it, at pre-marked places.

From a specific tee, a pipe or hose is laid to the water heater or to the shower, or to the washbasin. This connection scheme allows you to get by with a minimum of pipes.

However, the pressure of water in the system will decrease with distance from the source. At the most remote connection, the pressure will be the weakest.

This situation is familiar to people who live in an apartment on the upper floors of high-rise buildings. The collector circuit is devoid of such shortcomings.

The collector is a device for uniform distribution of water between consumers.

Collector piping has a more complex configuration.

Its cost is higher than with serial laying. Higher because installation requires more running meters pipes. With all this, the collector provides more quality water supply.

Collector system in the apartment

Modern apartments have a free layout and often occupy two levels. In this case, the water distribution scheme is developed individually.

You can install pipelines and install plumbing fixtures in the bathroom with your own hands. However, it is preferable to entrust these responsible works to professionals.

It is not recommended to install a collector, and maybe more than one, without proper experience. In this case, the risk of flooding neighbors from below increases.

To avoid such troubles, plastic pipes are connected with a special welding machine. In the country, for watering the beds, hoses connected by wire couplings are used.

When installing a pipeline in a city apartment, such connection methods are not suitable.

To make a strong connection, a special tool is used - scissors, napkins for cleaning grease, nozzles of the appropriate diameter.

Such a connection reliably serves in circuits for supplying both cold and hot water.

Material selection

When laying a pipeline from a well to a house or bath, it is preferable to choose from plastic. Polypropylene pipes are widely used in the country and increasingly in the apartment.

They are easy to install and their price, in comparison with pipes made of other materials, is low. The collector is made of copper or brass. Rarely stainless steel.

It is used to distribute both cold and hot water. In the apartment, for the bathroom, you can make a reliable wiring with your own hands from copper pipes.

In the country or in the bath, such a luxury is simply not needed. When planning the execution of certain works, you need to properly use the available opportunities.

Steel pipes continue to serve for water supply in the country, in an apartment and in a private house.

For laying a steel line, along the section from the well and to any point with your own hands, you will need to use a welding machine.

And, plus to it, considerable physical efforts. Practice shows that some private property owners prefer to use traditional materials.

Both in the bathroom and in their country house plastic structures are extremely rare. At the same time, a copper collector is considered a completely acceptable option.

Do-it-yourself installation is quite within the power of a person who is familiar with the installation rules.

The specifics of installation work

Before proceeding with the installation work in the house or in the country, it is necessary to purchase all the necessary devices, materials and components.

An exhaustive list is contained in the project documentation. To install in the bathroom - you need the bath itself and a faucet.

The collector is installed in the room where the water distribution unit is located. All pipes and adapters must be properly assembled so that there is no confusion during installation.

When laying the pipeline along the section from the well to the bath, you need to carefully check the quality of the pipe connection.

When performing work inside the house - pipes, a collector, valves are attached to pre-designated places.

The pipeline laying scheme is designed so that there are as few transitions “through” the wall as possible. This also applies to the bathroom and other rooms.

When the collector is attached, there should be a distance of 20–25 mm between it and the wall.

One of the laws of hydrodynamics says - the fewer turns and angles in the line, the less pressure loss.

It is desirable to observe this rule both when laying the line from the well to the bath, and when installing pipes indoors.

The collector is also preferable to mount on straight line pipeline.

By following all the installation instructions, as well as following the advice of experienced professionals, all water distribution work in a private house will be performed with high quality.

stoydiz.ru

Do-it-yourself plumbing in a private house, video, diagrams

In a private house, water can be supplied in two main ways:

  • through private sources;
  • through the central water supply.

The first method involves the supply of water from wells or wells, which are located on the site of a private house. This material contains videos, photographs, as well as diagrams that will help you make the water supply in a private house or in the country with your own hands. We will analyze how the wiring is performed, and what is needed for this.

Interesting: sometimes the source can be a lake or a river. But today it is practically impossible to meet such a water supply system, since all water bodies located near enterprises are polluted. The way out can be a special treatment complex.

Water supply from a private source

Installation of water supply in the country should begin with checking whether private water sources are suitable sanitary standards be it a well or a well. This also applies to large reservoirs from which it is planned to draw a resource. The well is considered the most reliable, as it functions in any conditions. Turned off the electricity? We raise water on buckets with our own hands! In other cases, the work is done by electric pumps.


Nothing will stop you from equipping this beauty with electric pumps.

If a long work above the well does not attract, then as an alternative, you can make a well with your own hands. Usually it is performed in the basement of the building. The main plus is that there is no need to lay pipes from the well to the main water supply system. You also get a strong pressure, because electric pumps pump liquid from close range. Such a source of water also has its drawback - the well is flooded, as a result, every 3-5 years a thorough cleaning is necessary.

Depending on the amount of water, the possibilities of wells differ. In standard cases, the owners create a well, the width of which is 10-15 centimeters. Such a system allows you to receive liquid using an electric pump, but you will not be able to raise several liters of water with your own hands.


It looks like a water supply system installed in the basement of a private house. The scheme is quite simple, so the well is cheaper than the well.

If power outages occur in your area, it is recommended to install a water tank in advance. The volume depends on the number of tenants, but the more the better. As for artesian wells, they are too rare in a private house or country house.

Central water supply system

The central sewerage and water supply system has a lot of advantages. You do not need to spend money on the pumping station and the units themselves. Also not needed storage tank for liquid. As for the purity of the supplied water and its pressure, these indicators will be taken care of by the organization that provides the water resource for the facilities. Also, an enterprise can be a state type, in simple terms- ZhEK. In this case, the sewerage and water supply system may be unstable: additional bills for pipe repairs, rust, weak pressure.


The photo shows a large-scale system that provides water to an entire microdistrict.

When choosing centralized system sewers, you do not have to deal with digging trenches for pipes, creating a well, etc. You need to send an application to an organization that works in your sector. After obtaining a permit, work begins: special equipment prepares trenches for pipes, laying is carried out, meters are installed.

Important: before contacting such an organization, you need to study the reviews. If the water is supplied to other houses cleanly, without pressure drops, then you should choose a centralized network, in other cases you will be laying pipes and creating a sewerage system with your own hands.

Charting


To make the scheme correct, you must have the skills of drawing and mathematics. If there is no experience in this matter, then it is better to turn to professionals who make plans.

So, you are ready to lay the water supply and make a sewer system with your own hands. You have studied the area and know what type of water supply is right for you. The next step will be the scheme - this is one of the most important points in creating a sewerage system in a private house, cottage or country house.

The schema must contain the following elements:

  • collectors;
  • filters;
  • boilers;
  • pumps;
  • pipe size;
  • pipeline path;
  • distances between elements.

What is the most important thing in a diagram? Of course, this is piping. They can be connected in two ways: using a collector or in series. As for the first method, it goes from the collector separate pipes to consumers in a private house or country house. The main advantage of installing a collector is a uniform pressure in all areas of the building. There are also disadvantages - high price due to a large number pipes.


Scheme of the pipeline with a collector.

A consistent method of connecting sewerage and water supply is recommended for small cottages. This scheme contains the main pipeline equipped with tees for each water consumer. If there are too many consumers in a private house or in the country, then the pressure indicator will constantly fall.


Construction with main piping.

Circuit example

You can study the features from the video and photo, consider the scheme where the pipe with water leads to the treatment system. This is done to ensure that consumers receive liquid suitable for consumption. Behind the treatment complex is a tee that distributes water flows to different consumers. The pipe that will supply hot water goes to the heating element, and cold pipe connected directly to the manifold.


A simple diagram allows you to understand how the water supply system works for a private house and for a summer residence.

Next, you need to put shut-off valves on the lines to consumers. Elements are mounted from the collector. The "hot" pipe goes from the heater to a separate collector designed for hot water. After it comes the piping of the building.

How is the installation and wiring

The differences between internal and external piping correspond to the difference between hidden and open wiring. If external wiring is selected, then the pipes will go through the house, in the case of a closed one, the elements will be placed inside the decoration of a private house and its walls. Also today you can make a semi-hidden version, in which the pipeline is installed in the box. They can be pasted over or painted in the same color as the walls. Also, the box can be left completely unfinished.

The water supply scheme in a private house or in the country is the most difficult moment, since the scheme is drawn up individually for each object. The water supply must be properly connected to the sewerage system. You will have to work on the walls with your own hands if you need hidden wiring. The fluid flow rate of each water intake point and the power of the well are the two main indicators that must be calculated before starting the process.

In addition to videos and photos, the advice of experienced builders always helps in the work:

  • Shut-off valves should be evenly distributed throughout the system, which will come in handy in an emergency to quickly shut off the flow of water.
  • It is best to fasten pipes in a private house or in the country with a threaded connection.
  • Fittings, fixtures and splitters must be the same if they are installed in the same system.
  • You can pass the walls in a private house with the help of gaskets that protect the material from corrosion, damage, abrasions and other adverse factors.
  • All over the system go drain taps When mounting them, make a slight bias towards the elements. This feature is needed so that the liquid does not accumulate in the pipeline.
  • Buy fittings, seals, gaskets, tapes, fasteners and other items with a margin. If everything is the same in the system, then in the event of a breakdown, you can immediately replace the part.
  • The fewer bends, the better. Each of them reduces the pressure in the sewerage and pipeline system in a private house or in the country.

Polypropylene pipe welding

Polypropylene elements are considered the most reliable of the pipes for giving. Polypropylene pipes are welded on the machine. The process is specific, so you should read the following instructions when welding polypropylene pipes:

  1. We need to get segments, for this we need to cut the pipes with special scissors.
  2. Welding points should be marked and cleaned with an alcohol wipe.
  3. Next, select a suitable nozzle for polypropylene pipes, set the desired temperature and start the unit.
  4. We are waiting for the heating of the welding machine, after which it is possible to push the segments of the house of marks onto the welding nozzles. It is not necessary to rotate the pipes.

The welder looks like this:


soldering of polypropylene pipes

Pipeline Care

The secret to the efficient and stable operation of the sewer along with the pipeline is simple - breakdowns must be eliminated immediately after they are detected. If the break in the pipe is small, then a rubber gasket can temporarily solve the problem. Also, in emergency situations, cold welding saves. Got a fistula? We make drilling and screw in the bolt (only suitable for new pipes).

jsnip.ru

Do-it-yourself installation and wiring of plumbing in a private house

Do-it-yourself plumbing in a private house can be carried out from a central water supply or from a well (well). The principles of its creation, the main components of the system in each of these cases do not actually differ.

Choosing a wiring diagram

There are two ways to supply water to consumption points, and the choice of a do-it-yourself water distribution scheme in a private house depends on the parameters of the system, as well as on the intensity of water consumption (permanent or periodic residence, number of residents, etc.).

serial connection

Such a connection is also called a tee. Faucet, shower and other points are connected in series. This method requires the use of fewer materials (pipes, fittings, etc.), therefore it is cheaper.

The disadvantage of a serial connection when distributing a water supply system is the likelihood of a decrease in pressure at the most remote points with the simultaneous use of several water intake points.

collector connection

A collector (or parallel) connection is the organization of a collector (or two collectors - hot and cold water supply), to which the lines leading to each water intake point are connected. To implement such a scheme would require large quantity pipes, however, its principle of operation allows for stable pressure.


Tee and collector water distribution schemes in the house

There are additional nuances when choosing the principle of water supply. Do-it-yourself installation of a water supply system in a private house can be done in two ways:

  • "Deaf" lines ending in a dead end (stub). Such a plumbing scheme in the house is more economical, however, when hot water is supplied, it can create some inconvenience - when opening the tap, you must wait a certain time until the liquid reaches the plug, and only after that hot water will appear in the tap.
  • Circulation closed lines are more practical and convenient, however, the implementation of such a project will require not only more pipes, but also a special circulation pump.

Experts recognize the combined option as the most rational, in which the “blind” distribution of cold water is combined with a hot water circulation line.

The main nodes of the scheme

The water distribution scheme in a private house, or rather, that part of it that is responsible for supplying water to the house, consists of the following main components:

  • pumping unit for a well or well,
  • nipple (adapter),
  • anti-backflow check valve,
  • pipeline,
  • filtration equipment (one or more different filters depending on water quality),
  • stop valve,
  • accumulator,
  • pyaternik (fitting) for connecting the main elements and devices (pressure gauge, pressure switch, pipes).
Elements of the water supply system of a country house with a well

The sequence of the water supply scheme

In order to visualize how water is distributed in a private house with your own hands, you can consider the course of communications from the source to the end point.

1. An individual water unit (well or well) is equipped with pumping equipment, the choice of which is carried out according to following principles:

  • for deep artesian wells, only submersible pumps can be used,
  • for narrow channels and casing pipes - only surface units, including pumping stations,
  • in other cases, the choice between submersible and outdoor equipment is made depending on specifications specific models and operating conditions.

2. The pipeline that brings water to the house is usually laid underground. The depth of the trench is usually chosen taking into account the depth of soil freezing in a given region. As an additional protection against freezing, communications are supplied with a heat-insulating layer.


Conducting water supply to the house from a well with a caisson

3. The entry point of the pipeline into the house deserves special attention.

  • Firstly, the hole for the pipe is made with a large margin - a gap of at least 150 mm on all sides. This avoids deformation and destruction of communications if, over time, the wall begins to sag or deform.
  • Secondly, small plot pipes located between underground and protected ground communications and internal wiring in a warm room are located in the open air. In this place, the risk of freezing of the pipeline is highest, so good thermal insulation is required.

4. The hydraulic accumulator and control devices are usually installed in the basement, basement or on the first floor near the entry point of the pipeline into the house. Purely technically, it would be more correct to place such equipment at the highest point, however, from the point of view of practicality and ease of use, the lower levels are more suitable. You should only take into account the need to raise water to the upper floors when setting the pressure switch.

The hydraulic accumulator is designed to stabilize the pressure in communications and prevent frequent switching on (and, accordingly, rapid wear) of pumping equipment.

The control and monitoring unit includes a pressure gauge, a pressure switch and a dry-running switch, which prevents air entrapment and the formation of air locks in the system when the water level in the well or well decreases.

5. Filter systems are completed, depending on the need, with devices for:

After that, the plumbing is done in a private house with your own hands according to the chosen scheme. For a collector circuit, it might look like this:

  • Immediately after the accumulator is a tee along with stopcock. The tee divides the flow of water into two directions - to the house and for other needs (watering, washing the car, etc.);
  • A deep filter is connected;
  • Next comes the tee, from which the distribution of water pipes in a private house is divided into a pipe for cold water, which immediately goes to the cold water collector, and a pipe through which water will go to a boiler or other water heater for heating. After heating, the water is sent to the hot water collector.
In the photo, the water distribution scheme in a private house

Important: When installing water supply in a private house with your own hands according to the collector scheme, it is necessary to install shut-off valves at each point of water consumption.

Pipe selection

Communications diameter

When conducting a water supply system to a private house with your own hands, a correctly selected pipe diameter will ensure cost-effectiveness at the installation stage of the system, as well as avoid unpleasant noise when water moves through communications.

To calculate the parameters of lines supplying water to consumption points, the starting point is the total length of each line:

  • for a branch with a length of less than 10 meters, pipes with a diameter of 16-20 mm can be used,
  • for branches about 30 meters - with a diameter of 25 mm,
  • for the longest lines over 30 meters, pipes with a maximum diameter of 32 mm are required.

Important: Particular attention should be paid to the choice of the diameter of the collector pipe. Insufficient value can cause malfunctions in the system.

The distribution of water in a private house from the collector is calculated based on the fact that each tap has a throughput of about 5 liters per minute. After that, it is roughly calculated how much water is taken simultaneously from all points at peak moments and the diameter of the collector is chosen:

  • 25 mm for a flow rate of 30 l/min,
  • 32 mm for 50 l,
  • 38 mm for 75 l.

Pipe material

Laying a water pipe in a private house allows you to use pipes from various materials, each of which has its own advantages, disadvantages and features of operation.

If you decide to stop at polypropylene, it will be useful for you to know how to weld polypropylene pipes.

Read more about the difference between collector and tee plumbing schemes here.

Since you will need coarse water filters, we advise you to familiarize yourself with their types.

In order for the system to work flawlessly, it is important to know how to properly install plumbing in a private house with your own hands. This concept can include both the basic principles regulated by building codes and regulations, as well as some of the nuances and subtleties known experienced craftsmen.

  • Ideally, the pipeline should not pass through building structures, however, in practice, the creation of such a scheme is often impossible or impractical. If it is necessary to conduct communications through the wall, the pipe must be placed in a protective glass.
  • Despite the fact that the owner of the house almost always wants to get the maximum free space and for this "press" the pipeline from the wall, between building structures and communications running parallel to them must have a gap of at least 25 mm for easy repair work. The contour of the inner corner requires a distance of 40 mm, and the outer 15 mm.
  • If there are drain valves on the pipelines or the hydraulic accumulator, a slight slope is made in their direction.
  • The most convenient way to fix the pipeline to the walls is with special clips. You can choose single or double devices, the distance between them in any case should be about 2 meters.

When deciding how to make water distribution in a private house, remember that a well-executed internal water supply system has characteristic differences:

  • Minimum joints and adapters. This improves the reliability and efficiency of the system.
  • All connections are made in strict accordance with the installation technology of this particular type of pipe.
  • The presence of valves or shut-off valves in critical areas of the system and at connection points.
  • The minimum number of not too reliable flexible sections for connection (hose connections), which are most vulnerable to pressure drops.
  • What can be done from pallets for giving with your own hands

The problem of water supply to a summer cottage worries many summer residents, because without watering you can not even dream of any crop. Carrying water from the nearest pond or from a well is simply physically impossible. The most effective way out of this situation is to equip a summer water supply system in the country from polypropylene pipes. Of course, this will require some capital investment and physical effort, but the result is the ability to water the site in a very short time.

And since there is water in the well or in the well that is quite suitable for drinking, in addition, you will provide for yourself and drinking water. Consequently, summer water supply in the country can significantly make life easier for the owners of the site, create conditions for more rational use of land and even for comfortable living in the country.

Before you build a summer water supply in the country with your own hands, you need to decide on its location. The water conduit can be collapsible, laid on the surface of the soil, or permanent, located underground.

collapsible

The advantage of the summer collapsible option is that it:

  • very quickly laid and easily connected to various water sources;
  • all its leaks become immediately noticeable;
  • maintenance is reduced to a minimum.

However, such a design it is recommended to disassemble and carry away from the site before the onset of cold weather. If this is not done, there is a high probability of theft of water pipes in the winter season. This forces all connections to be collapsible. Also, pipes located near the beds will be constantly at risk of damage.

Note: For collapsible surface plumbing, rubber or silicone hoses are often used.

Constant

Such a system is laid forever. You can use the laid water supply both in summer and in winter. But, if you plan to use it in the winter, you will have to bury the pipes to a sufficiently large depth, below the freezing level of the soil, or additional insulation if the depth of their laying is insufficient for any reason. Since we are talking about how to make summer water supply in the country with our own hands, we will consider just such a possibility of permanent water supply.

The system is laid shallow in places of lawns, between trees. A depth of 25-30 cm will be enough. Where the pipe will pass under the beds, it should be laid much deeper to avoid damage during digging. To do this, the pipes are buried by 40-45 cm or even more. Do not worry that the pipes will break in winter. In autumn, when there is no need for irrigation, the water is drained from the pipes (for this they are laid with a slight slope or blown by a compressor). In this state, pipelines are not afraid of frost.


The photo shows an example of the location of plastic water pipes in shallow trenches.

Benefits of a permanent pipeline:

  • closed summer water supply in the country from polypropylene pipes does not need to be disassembled and reassembled;
  • can be used in winter at the appropriate bookmark depth;
  • pipes will not be stolen.

Among the shortcomings, one can note the need to drain water from pipes in the fall. To do this, you need to install a drain valve located at the lowest point of the system. Labor costs for earthworks will also increase. And in case of damage, a considerable amount of earthwork will have to be performed to eliminate the defect.

Types of pipes for irrigation

Depending on which version of the conduit you decide to make, the material of the pipelines is selected.

For laying an outdoor summer water supply, you can use the following types of pipes:

  • metal-plastic;
  • polypropylene;
  • flexible hoses.

All of the listed materials, with the exception of polypropylene pipelines, are easily joined into a single structure, and then just as easily disassembled and transferred to storage. Connections are made by means of either special adapters made of plastic or galvanized steel.


Tip: If you decide to lay a surface conduit made of polypropylene pipes in the country, then try to disguise it for the winter, since it will be impossible to disassemble such a pipeline.

What to make summer water supply at a summer cottage of a permanent type:

  • Metal. Despite their reliability and strength, such pipes are gradually losing their relevance. This is due to the fact that the walls of the pipes gradually corrode, the quality of the water decreases, and the pipes leak after 5-7 years in the ground;
  • Polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Rigid pipes, which must be connected to each other for irrigation using special glue. Of the minuses, it is worth noting their intolerance to low temperatures, which requires compliance with certain rules when laying them;
  • Polyethylene pipes. They are relatively inexpensive and quite durable;
  • . The material is extremely durable, does not rot in the soil and does not corrode. For its installation, a soldering iron is used, which allows you to make very reliable connections. Polypropylene is relatively cheap, as is working with it.

It is polypropylene pipes that are the most preferred option when a closed-type do-it-yourself water supply system is made for irrigation in a country house. For irrigation, pipes with a diameter of 20-25 mm are usually used, although a larger diameter can be used. The larger diameter of the pipe is especially relevant in the presence of a centralized water line, where there may be low pressure.

Organization of irrigation on the site

It is very important to determine the source of water on the site. It is good if a central water supply line is stretched along the street. You can simply connect to it after obtaining the appropriate permission. If there is no water conduit, then there are only two options left:

1. Summer. To do this, you will need to dig a well on the site, strengthen it and provide filling with water. To supply water to the pipes, a submersible or surface pump. By the same principle, water is supplied from the well. The disadvantage of this submission is low temperature water that plants don't like.


2. Water supply for irrigation from the tank. Water is collected in a tank located on the site, where it reaches a temperature suitable for irrigation, and from there it is already supplied to the mounted polypropylene water supply.

Installation of polypropylene water supply

Before starting work on laying pipelines, a summer water supply scheme is drawn up in the country. It should take into account the location of shrubs, trees, beds, flower beds. This is especially important to do when conducting a permanent water supply, since changing the location of the pipes will then be very problematic. The diagram should indicate all the outlet points of the taps and the location of the lowest point with a drain valve.

Installation of summer water supply in a collapsible type cottage

Laying a surface pipeline is easy. Pipes are laid out directly on the ground, in those places where it is necessary to supply water. Pipelines are interconnected.


The device of the summer water supply in the country house underground

If a universal polypropylene pipeline is being laid, which will also be used in winter, then deep enough trenches are dug. In them, the pipes will not freeze in winter. If we are talking only about the summer operation of the water supply system, then the depth of the pipes can be much less. Enough 10-30 cm for the normal functioning of the conduit.

All trenches must be sloped to allow gravity flow of water through the pipes. This will make it easier to bleed water through the drain valve at the end of the irrigation season. Pipes passing under flower beds and beds are laid deeper. In this case, the lowest point of the system should be even lower than this level.

Polypropylene pipes are joined together by means of fittings and a special soldering iron. To bring the pipe to the surface, tees with shut-off valves or valves are used.

Tip: Before filling the trenches with earth, it is recommended to check the tightness of the water supply by running water through the pipes.

The trenches are dug in with earth, after which the water supply can be operated.

There is nothing complicated in the manufacture of summer country water supply. If everything is done carefully, such a water supply system will regularly serve its owners for decades.

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