Do-it-yourself frame garage: budget construction. Do-it-yourself frame garage: how easy it is to build a structure Frame garage 6 6

The use of frame technology will significantly reduce the cost of building a garage. After all, the small mass of the building reduces the requirements for the foundation, and the use of boards and oriented strand boards (OSB) as the main building material reduces delivery costs. After all, you can bring boards and OSB in a small car with a low carrying capacity, and to deliver bricks, sand and cement in the right quantities, you will need a serious truck and a crane with a lifting capacity of at least 2 tons. In this article, we will tell you about how to build a frame garage with your own hands from choosing a site and creating a project to roofing and connecting communications.

Choosing a place for a garage

An ideal place for a garage would be a platform on a hillock near the house. The hillock will protect the garage, the inspection hole and the car from the water that has risen during a heavy downpour. If there is no such site near the house, then you will have to choose a place, focusing on proximity to the road and elevation relative to ground level. Never build a garage in hollows and depressions, otherwise even a little rain will cause the water level in it to rise. It is desirable that a 220 or 380 volt line pass next to the garage, this will facilitate construction and equip the garage with electric heating.

Create a project

The creation of a garage construction project has the following goals:

• determination of the sequence of construction stages;
• determining the course of action during each stage;
• determining the amount of materials needed to build a garage.

If you are drafting a project yourself, then you will have to carefully consider the entire process of building a garage, from the supply and storage of material to the length and order of installation of frame boards. It helps a lot in this drawing, with strict adherence to scale. With it, you can determine the dimensions of the garage, the best ways to stiffen the structure, the length of the load-bearing boards and the number of fasteners. There are many different programs (for example, AutoCAD) that facilitate the design of any structure, but they all require a certain amount of experience. Therefore, it is easier to get by with a paper drawing and an explanatory note to it. Or use the services of professional design engineers or builders. In this case, the project will take into account various little things that an unprepared person does not even know about. For example, the choice of wood by moisture, the choice of boards by width, the features of construction from raw boards, the assembly order of the wall frame, and so on.

Material selection

Most often, garages are built from unplaned boards with a moisture content of 12-14%, but lumber of natural moisture is also often used. The latter will cost a little less, but a garage made of such boards cannot be sheathed for finishing in the first year, which leads to an overrun of the material. Therefore, experienced builders use only well-dried boards.

As load-bearing elements, a bar with a section of 100x100 mm or a board with a section of 50x250 mm is used. As an internal frame of the walls, a board with a section of 25x100 mm is used. For insulation, foam plastic or mineral wool up to 5 cm thick is used, and in cold regions up to 10 cm. For external cladding, waterproof OSB 15–20 mm thick, wagon board or metal corrugated board are used. For interior cladding, fiberboard, plywood 5-10 mm thick or the same OSB thickness are used. This combination of materials allows you to create a durable and inexpensive garage.

Foundation construction

Having drawn up a project or drawing and tied it to the terrain, bring in all the necessary materials to create the foundation. When creating the foundation, keep in mind that the inspection hole significantly increases the functionality of the garage, allowing not only to store, but also to service and repair the car. If you don’t need a viewing hole, then you can choose and build a foundation using the information from the articles Which foundation is best for a house made of timber - calculation features and Attaching a timber to different types of foundation.

If you decide to build a pit, then the technology for creating the foundation will have to be changed by digging a foundation pit under it. Determine the depth of the pit based on your height and needs. You can make a lying pit, equipping it with a cart, you can make a sitting or standing pit. The only difference is in height and in the fact that in a standing pit you can perform any kind of work, in a sitting pit you cannot normally remove the engine and gearbox, and a lying pit is suitable only for minor car maintenance. Here are the approximate depths of the pit and the pit for it:

• recumbent 50/80 cm;
• seated 130/170 cm;
• standing 170/210 cm.

For concreting the pit, use the same technology as for pouring concrete grillage. In the pit, you can provide niches for the tool. The width of the finished pit should be 5-10 cm less than the distance between the inner side of the wheels of the same axle. On the surface of the pit, fix corners or steel pipes that will not allow the car to fall into it.

If you are going to install iron gates, then provide fasteners for them. Depending on the gate model, it can be either 2 vertical poles with fasteners (canopies), or 4-6 poles. If you are going to install roller shutters, then you can use wooden walls and a ceiling for their fastening.

Delivery and storage of material

Having prepared the foundation and letting it stand, bring in the boards. The frame structure allows the use of boards of natural moisture, but you must understand that by saving on them, you will seriously lose on construction time. After all, it will not be possible to sheathe the garage for finishing due to the very large shrinkage of the board of natural humidity. Therefore, it is desirable to purchase a dried board with a moisture content of 12-14%. To store such a board, you will need a canopy that is protected from the rain. It can be made from wooden bars or aluminum tubes and polyethylene. Be sure to provide ventilation boards under a canopy.

First you need to assemble the side walls on the ground. To do this, in accordance with the project, cut the vertical, horizontal and diagonal elements, and then proceed with the assembly. You can perform this operation yourself. To fasten the boards to each other, use metal corners and powerful self-tapping screws. These accessories are sold in most hardware stores. Be sure to check the corners of the edge boards, because the shape of the garage depends on them. The optimal distance between vertical boards is 70–100 cm, and between horizontal boards 120–150 cm. Pay special attention to the mounting holes, because even a small mistake will lead to the fact that you will not be able to install the wall in place the first time.

The installation of the wall must be carried out by two or three people, and if the length of the wall is more than 6 meters, or the height is more than 3 meters, then you will either have to call more people or use a crane.

If you can't gather more than two people or use a crane, then first assemble a box for each wall, consisting of two vertical and two horizontal planks. You can install such a box by two people. Install both side boxes, then connect them with vertical boards to form the back box. Then assemble the front box. Now you can install portable small-sized scaffolding and fill all boxes with vertical and horizontal boards. Remember, vertical boards can only be cut if you plan to install a window. In all other cases, they must be integer. But cut the horizontal boards based on the distance between the vertical boards. Connect the entire structure using corners and self-tapping screws. Do not forget to install diagonal boards in every fifth cell.

Roof installation

If possible, invite an experienced carpenter or roofer to create a roof, because one article can only give general principles for this work. First install the boards (logs) of the ceiling at a distance of 80–140 cm from each other. If you plan to use the attic as a pantry, then the distance must be reduced, otherwise increase. To install a log in them and the upper horizontal boards of the frame, cut holes whose width is equal to the thickness of the board, and the depth is equal to half the width of the board. Thanks to this, the logs will become flush with the upper edge of the frame. The lags should protrude sideways by 50-60 centimeters. After installing the roof rafters, you will use a circular saw or chain saw to cut them to the required length.

If you work together and there is no way to call for help, then instead of the log you will have to install a complex structure (triangle), which includes logs, rafters and vertical supports. In this case, you can do without cuts in the boards and put these triangles directly on the frame, which will greatly facilitate installation. After that, install a vertical board that connects the upper parts of the triangles, as well as a bottom board that connects the lower parts to each other. Be sure to install at least 2 (preferably 4) diagonal braces to protect the roof from strong winds.

Sheathing and insulation

For sheathing, use corrugated board. Start sheathing from the bottom, laying the sheets with an overlap, so that during rain the water will drain without getting inside. When sheathing a garage with a wagon board or its analogues, lay the board horizontally, so it will look more beautiful. If you decide to sheathe the OSB garage, then the sheets will need to be adjusted so tightly and clearly that the gap between them in any place does not exceed 0.5 mm, and after the sheathing is completed, the joints must be covered with a mixture of PVA and fine wood dust.

Lastly, sheathe the roof, do not forget to install gutters. It is desirable that the roof metal profile protrudes 30-40 cm beyond the walls, this will increase the protection of the walls from water. Having finished with the outer skin, proceed to the insulation, for this, place pieces of foam plastic or mineral wool cut to size into the wall cells, then sew them up with plywood or OSB. Fiberboard can also be used, but its strength is insufficient, so the material will quickly become scratched. To insulate the attic, it is enough to lay the insulating material in the cells formed by the lags, this is several times easier than insulating the roof along the rafters.

Gate installation

If you install metal gates, then the hinges on them must fully correspond to the hinges on the supporting elements. For the installation of roller shutters, you need to invite a specialist. Therefore, the best choice for a frame garage is a wagon board gate. Even the most modern steel gates will not help against car theft, so their function is rather decorative. The most beautiful garage is obtained if it is sheathed with a wagon board and a gate is made from it, reinforcing each leaf from the inside with two horizontal and one diagonal board. Decorative hinges (canopies), which are sold in hardware stores, will add a special touch to the garage.

Power supply and heating

If it is possible to connect the garage to the power supply line, then be sure to get the technical conditions and install the meter in accordance with them. This will save you from problems with the electricity supplier. For heating insulated garages, wall-mounted infrared electric heaters are the most effective. Be sure to install a separate circuit breaker and temperature controller for heaters.

Any man can easily build a frame garage with his own hands in order to provide his car with an inexpensive and reliable "home" in operation. The construction of such a structure requires a minimum of time and financial resources.

Any "motor house" today must meet a number of requirements. Modern motorists want a place to store their vehicle:

• built as quickly as possible and with the least cost of money;
• qualitatively protected the car from external influences;
• characterized by a simple design and ease of regular maintenance;
• provide the required thermal conditions and at the same time would not require excessive heating costs.

Vehicle storage space

All these requests are met by frame garages, which have become very popular among vehicle owners in recent years. Such buildings can be built using frame-panel technology, from metal profiles and from wooden beams. Most often, domestic motorists opt for structures made of natural wood and metal profiles. Log garages are characterized by optimal vapor permeability, excellent heat saving, unique environmental friendliness and wonderful appearance. Such objects fit perfectly into any landscapes in urban areas or on a suburban area.

Buildings for cars made of metal profiles are also in demand by car owners. They have high strength, are quickly mounted, and can be operated without additional maintenance for many years. But the construction of frame-panel structures is usually carried out when a person needs a cheap "motor house" that will not be used for a very long time. Subsequently, in place of such a cheap garage, you can build a better and more durable frame building.

First of all, you need to develop a "caravan" project. It will determine the geometric dimensions of the building, calculate the required materials, and indicate the sequence of construction activities. In fact, the project is a step-by-step instruction for the construction of a building. It will be easy for you to make a frame garage with your own hands if you stick to the planned points.

After drawing up the project, you can begin to clean and prepare the site for the installation of the frame "motorhome". There is nothing complicated here. You will need to remove all vegetation from the site, level the ground and compact it with high quality, and then make a pillow of gravel and on the site. It is necessary in order for the foundation of the garage to reliably “hold” the structure for a long time.

Building sand gravel pad

Note! The pillow also needs to be carefully leveled, trying to get the most smooth and even surface for mounting the frame structure. This is easy to achieve if you use a vibrating plate.

The standard dimensions of the garage area are 10 by 10 meters. "Avtodomik" with such dimensions will be ideal for "rest" of your car and its maintenance. If you are planning to build a garage for two vehicles, you need to draw up a project with a large building size. There are no special problems in this. On the Internet, you will always find projects for every taste, for one or several cars. Having cleared the site for construction, you can start pouring the foundation for the garage. The foundation for the frame "motorhome" is recommended to be made of a concrete monolithic slab. See below for how to make this work.

A concrete slab is considered an excellent foundation for a building. It prevents the risk of deformation of the garage during operation due to the fact that such a foundation evenly perceives all loads. Its construction is carried out as follows:

1. Dig a moat around the perimeter of the future garage (about 50 cm deep).
2. Mount timber formwork on three sides of the trench.
3. Fill the moat with concrete.
4. Wait about 20 days until the foundation hardens.

At this stage of work, it is important to use good concrete. Do not try to save on this material by purchasing it from dubious sellers. You should always use certified concrete. Otherwise, it is likely that your do-it-yourself frame garage will turn out to be not at all as reliable and durable as you imagined it to be.

Foundation slab made of certified concrete

An important nuance. If the foundation is being built on unstable soil, it is recommended to additionally: reinforce the concrete slab with reinforcing meshes (preferably in two layers); install ribs (monolithic) stiffening. This foundation will last forever. At first glance, it does not look very reliable due to the shallow depth of the trench. But this impression is deceptive. Frame garages are characterized by low weight. Therefore, a half-meter foundation can withstand their weight without any problems.

It is worth noting another important point. The foundation you made will serve as the floor in the garage. You can leave the concrete base as it is after pouring, or make it decorative with any suitable materials. The most popular scheme for arranging the floor in a frame garage is as follows:

• fill the concrete foundation with granite chips or ordinary gravel;
• mount a reinforcing mesh over the layer of material;
• fix the resulting structure with cement mortar and lay reinforced concrete slabs of small thickness on it;
• lay roofing felt.

This flooring is very strong and warm. At the same time, the cost of funds for it is minimal.

We will talk in detail about how to build a wooden garage frame, since it is wood that is most often used to build car boxes. The construction of a panel building or a garage made of metal profiles will be essentially the same. The construction of the lower part of the hangar for the car is carried out with boards, which must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition. The geometric dimensions of the boards are 10x4 or 10x5 cm.

Corner racks and racks for entering the garage are made of 10x10 cm bars. All other structural elements - rafters, additional racks, beams, can be made of 10x5 cm boards. The optimal length of wood material is 3 m. Perhaps such a height is excessive for a garage, but on the other hand, it will be very convenient for you to cut six-meter standard bars into two three-meter blanks. However, you can build a garage and lower, just there will be more wood waste.

Corner racks of a frame garage made of beams 10x10 cm

Corner posts are attached to the lower crown after its installation. After that, you can put the top crown on them. The distance between the racks is taken as 1.1–1.2 m. A larger distance is not recommended, since the stability of the structure will decrease. It is allowed not to make special grooves for racks. The latter can be easily fixed with corners on nails or on. It is also recommended to install temporary slopes for reliable fixation of wooden racks. The mounted supports are attached to the crowns according to the "thorn-groove" scheme. And then they are fixed with nails, which are driven into the groove at a slight angle.

If you plan to lay the garage floor on logs, they should be placed between the bottom trim boards, and then nailed at an angle on each side of the log. The recommended length of the hardware is 12 cm. Do not forget to lay the wooden beam on the supports located on the sides of the gate opening, and then embed it securely and firmly into the corner posts.

The roof of the "motorhome" is made of boards 10x2.5 (10x4) cm. They can then be sheathed with bituminous sheets, which can be laid directly on the crate of the building. It is even easier to finish the roof with metal tiles or corrugated board. But in this case, you will have to spend money on the purchase of these rather expensive materials. Fastening profiled sheets or other roofing products is carried out according to a suitable technology, involving the use of appropriate hardware and electric tools.

Sheathing the roof of the garage with bitumen sheets

A mandatory element of the roof of the garage is the spillway structure. You can make the simplest spillway from a sewer pipe (plastic) by cutting it in half. It is advisable to additionally process the structure made with some kind of polymer composition for its 100% protection against corrosion. The walls of the frame garage are sheathed with construction special paper. Hardboard is then laid on it and attached. The latter can be replaced with OSB boards (use those types that have high moisture resistance) or plywood sheets.

Outside, the walls are sheathed with profiled sheets (they are connected to the racks of the structure). It is optimal when a crate is pre-mounted between the racks. For its installation, wood bars 4x4 or 3x3 cm are usually used. The crate provides an air gap between the sheathing material and the uprights of the structure.

Don't forget about the entrance to the garage...

Gates for a budget "caravan" can be installed any. The easiest way is to make ordinary swing. They are lightweight and easy to make. The gate collection scheme is as follows:

• make the outer and inner frames of the structure (use a 6.5 cm corner);
• connect the frames made with the help of small metal strips;
• from a profile of 4x2.5 cm, you make a sash frame, which then needs to be sheathed with 2 mm sheet steel.

And the function of reliable bolts in the gate will be performed by metal pins that need to be inserted into tubes of suitable diameter. It will be easy for you to make them. Be sure to process all the elements of the metal gate with a file and sandpaper, then cover them with drying oil to increase the protection of the structure from rust and paint.

Now you know how to build a frame garage. You only need to equip it from the inside. We recommend lining the ceiling of the “motorhome” with clapboard, then laying a layer of paper on it and adding insulation. In winter, you can heat the garage with a 500-watt spotlight or a small fan heater (about 2 kW). The use of spiral and other electric heaters in frame buildings is prohibited.

In the construction of garages, simplified technologies and lightweight structures are often used. The purpose of any garage is to protect a car or other equipment from unauthorized access, minor repairs and maintenance, as well as storage of spare parts, tools and other useful little things. Even a non-capital structure perfectly copes with these functions. A do-it-yourself frame garage will help to significantly save money on construction, and in functionality it will not yield to a major garage made of brick or concrete.

Features, advantages and disadvantages of a frame-type garage

The frame of a do-it-yourself garage is most often made of wood. This material is easy to process, affordable and does not weigh down the structure. Almost any material can be used for sheathing: wood, vinyl or metal siding, but corrugated sheets or metal sandwich panels remain the most popular today.

The advantages of such a garage include:

• Ease of erection;
• The ability to perform work without the involvement of technology;
• Lightweight yet durable construction;
• There is no need for a deep foundation.

Among the shortcomings, the flammability of the frame material should be noted, therefore it is recommended to sheathe it outside and inside with non-combustible material, and use stone wool that does not support combustion for insulation. It is also recommended to impregnate the wooden frame with an antiseptic, which prolongs its service life.

Foundation and foundation

The frame garage has a lightweight design, so it does not require the construction of a strip buried foundation. However, if there is a need for a viewing hole, you can make a foundation with a hole using the same technology as when building a garage from a metal profile. Below is the technology for erecting a frame garage based on prefabricated concrete blocks.

The finished foundation will carry the entire load from the building, so you need to wait a few days before installing the garage frame.

garage frame

The frame is made of well-dried wood. For the frame you will need:

• Beam 10x10 for the main racks and beams of the floor and ceiling;
• Board 40 mm for rafters;
• Board 20 mm for the crate and intermediate racks;
• Floor board from 40 mm thick.

The amount of building material depends on the size of the garage and is calculated after drawing a sketch. Frame technology:

1. The foundation surface is waterproofed with two layers of roofing material glued to bituminous mastic. Waterproofing protects the wooden frame from moisture and decay. Along the perimeter of the garage, a lower trim bar is laid, connecting it in the corners with the help of a notch and dowels. For this purpose, a beam of 10x10 cm is used.

   

2. Corner and intermediate racks made of timber are installed on the lower beam, fixed with dowels, additionally fixing them to metal corners with self-tapping screws. The distance between the racks is at least 2 meters. Then they install the upper harness from a 10x10 cm beam. The beam is fixed in the same way as the bottom one.

   

3. Install intermediate racks from a 20 mm board at a distance of about 50 cm. It is convenient to choose the distance between the racks according to the size of the insulation mats, then you do not have to lay an additional crate for them. Horizontal jumpers are fixed between the racks, again focusing on the height of the insulation. Screeds are fixed with the help of corners and self-tapping screws.

   

4. The rafter system for the roof is made of a board of 40 mm, the pitch of the rafters is from 0.5 to 1 meter, depending on the snow load in the region. Floor beams from a 40 mm board are fastened to the beam of the upper trim with the help of dowels, rafter legs are attached to it at an angle to each other. Strengthen the rafters with puffs and struts, depending on the size of the roof.

   

5. A waterproofing film is laid on the rafters, for example,. On top of the film, a crate of a 20 mm board is attached along the ridge along both slopes, the pitch of the crate is 0.5 meters.

Floor coverings are made from a board of 40 mm, they are installed on the lower trim. The floors are made of floorboards laid on the floors. The gate frame is made of a 10x10 cm bar, fastened with dowels and additionally reinforced with metal corners. To give additional rigidity to the gate, transverse ties are performed. The finished frame of the garage is covered with an antiseptic in two layers, after which you can proceed to the sheathing.

Sheathing of the garage with a metal profile and insulation of the garage

The choice of a metal profile for garage sheathing has a lot of advantages: metal coatings are fire resistant, windproof, have high strength and durability. The metal profile is attached to the frame using special self-tapping screws. They have a hex head, a sealing washer and come in a variety of lengths and colors. For walls, a wall metal profile of grade C or PS is chosen, and for the roof, grade PK or N.

1. Start cladding from the walls. A metal profile sheet is applied to one of the corner posts, aligned with a plumb line and fixed with self-tapping screws into the lower wave. The next sheet is overlapped on one wave and both sheets are fixed with screws together. In total, 4-5 self-tapping screws are needed for 1 square meter of sheathing. The gates are sheathed with the same wall metal profile.
2. If necessary, the metal profile is cut to size with metal scissors or a jigsaw. It is not recommended to cut it with a grinder, as this burns the polymer coating, and the corrosion resistance of the metal is sharply reduced.
3. Before laying the coating on the roof, it is necessary to install wind strips. The metal profile is laid on the roof from the leeward side, fixing it together with the wind strips to the crate. The metal ridge is fixed after laying the sheets so that the self-tapping screw enters the upper wave.
4. Garage insulation is optional. For this purpose, stone wool is used, made in the form of mats. The mats are laid between the posts, having previously fixed a windproof film on the walls. The mats are fixed with a filing from the board or immediately sheathed with sheet iron.
5. Instead of a metal profile and insulation, it can be used for the construction of a garage, which are prefabricated elements with an external profiled coating, insulation mats and an internal smooth metal sheet.

A frame garage can also be made from a metal corner sheathed with corrugated board. Such a garage is heavier and requires the use of a welding machine, but it is safer in terms of fire protection. However, if repair and welding work is planned in the garage, it is more reliable on a metal frame.

Buying a car is an expensive purchase. Yes, a car can be outdoors year-round or “winter” under a temporary structure, but how will this affect its technical condition? Think you can build a covered space?

When choosing, the emphasis is on the duration of work and the price category. If earlier it was possible to choose only between an iron and a stationary structure, now frame garages that have come to us from abroad are gaining more and more popularity.

Have you decided, but do not know how to build a garage using frame technology? Let's figure it out together.

One of the main advantages of such buildings is the possibility of independent construction. You will need only one assistant and a developed project, which includes all the necessary drawings (sketches), an approximate calculation of the necessary building and additional materials. Other benefits include:

• affordability, compared with stationary garages;
• simplicity and short term of the construction process;
• low thermal conductivity, which allows in winter to quickly warm the room to the desired temperature;
• strength.

We offer you step-by-step instructions for a do-it-yourself frame garage, with a step-by-step description of the work.

Designing the future building

The initial stage in any construction is a sketch or drawing of the future premises. This will save time and money on construction, because you will know how much material you will need for your idea. If earlier a frame garage project, all the necessary calculations had to be done manually, now there are a lot of special programs on the Internet that will carry out all the calculations with maximum accuracy.

The site on which the construction of the garage is planned should not be far from the house. The preferred distance is up to 10 meters. The construction area must be cleared of plants, debris, roots. The ground on it needs to be tamped and leveled. After the preparatory work, make a pillow of gravel and sand, on which the foundation will then lie.

Required Tools

For work, you will, at a minimum, need: shovels, gloves, a level, ready-made formwork. Depending on the type of garage, wooden beams will be needed for the frame, it is better to use larch, linden or aspen, or profile pipes. For the base - high-quality concrete mortar.

The choice of type and foundation bay

The foundation is the foundation of any construction, it bears the greatest load. It is on it that the design of the future structure will then be installed.
There are three types of foundation:

• pile or columnar - poured during the construction of wooden houses or baths. Considered one of the most affordable. The disadvantage is the impossibility of construction without special equipment;
• monolithic slab - this type is poured with the obligatory reinforcement and leveling of the surface. The disadvantage is considered a long period until the mixture is completely dry;
• tape - the most popular type, which fully meets the requirements for strength and affordable cost.

Note! The foundation for a frame garage is selected taking into account the quality of the soil and the level of groundwater.

Based on the fact that the foundation for a frame garage also plays the role of a "subfloor", most often a monolithic foundation is poured. Work on the base begins with digging a trench around the perimeter of the future garage. The depth of the trench is 40-50 cm. After that, on three sides of the building, we install the formwork. For this stage, you can use substandard boards, plywood, bars of various sizes. If you want to continue to use this formwork again, then it is better to wrap it with oilcloth or other waterproof material.

The next step is tying the reinforcement. It will strengthen the concrete mixture. It is made of metal rods with a diameter of 10-12 millimeters. The final operation is to fill the entire perimeter of the site with a concrete mixture and level it. It remains to wait for the complete drying of the solution. The concrete screed dries approximately 2-3 weeks.

A garage using frame technology can be pulled out either from metal or wood. Consider the construction of a frame garage for each type of material.

Building a metal garage

This type of garage frame is built from a profile pipe, 40x40 and 40x20 in size. The first profile is laid on the base, fastening takes place using anchor bolts. Pipes are welded together. After that, the installation of the entire structure takes place. We “attach” the skin to the elements of the skeleton. In our case, it is metal sheets. If desired - profiled. The most convenient for wall cladding are sheets of C10 metal profile, with dimensions of 2000 x 5 mm. The sheets are overlapped and fastened with a welding machine. First pointwise, and after the end of the skin - completely. Self-tapping screws may be an alternative. Choose yourself.

Pay attention! Sheets should be placed so that the overlap is from top to bottom. Thus, moisture will not get under the material.

The positive properties of the metal profile include its incombustibility, strength, speed of installation. By the "cons" - the need to use welding.

Timber frame garage

Most often, the frame of the garage is made of wood. Due to the fact that wood is easily susceptible to decay and other natural influences, all elements must be treated with specialized substances before starting work that can eliminate these material properties.

It should be noted that a wooden frame garage is the most budget option for this building. As in the case of a metal frame, a wooden garage also begins to be built from pouring the foundation. For the lower trim, it is better to use bars with dimensions of 100x50 mm, which are fastened with anchor bolts. For further work, it is better to use bars 100x100 or 150x150 mm. For better stability of the structure, it is recommended to make a gap between vertical structural elements of 30-120 cm.

Sheathing for a wooden frame can be:

• moisture resistant plywood;
• osb plate;
• boards.

Note! These materials for sheathing can be deformed under the influence of the external environment, so it is necessary to make gaps (expansion joints) of 3-5 mm between the plates.

We fasten the selected material with self-tapping screws for wood or with “ruff nails”. A gap of 300 mm should remain between adjacent nails in the center of the sheet, and 150 mm must be retreated from the edge of the sheet. To avoid splitting the edges, we screw the fasteners, leaving a gap of 10 mm, without tightening too much.

Roof and gate structures

Well, the walls are in place, let's move on to mounting the roof. It happens - flat, single-sided and double-sided. Flat roof, the easiest installation option, but the most at risk of deformation. Therefore, choose either a single or gable roof. The slope in such roofs will not allow snow to be fixed on them and it will fall to the ground under its own weight. This technological operation begins with the fixing of the truss system. Keep in mind that it is on it that the entire load from precipitation will be shifted. Parts of the rafter system are fastened together with puffs, which will unload the ridge beam. The choice of roofing material depends on your financial capabilities. It can be classic or metal tiles, slate, corrugated board.

Installing the gate is the final step. According to the method of opening, they are divided into sliding, sectional, hinged or retractable. After installing the system, do not forget to treat the surface with a primer and paint to prevent corrosion.

Insulation, outer and inner lining

Wall insulation will help maintain a normal temperature inside the room. To do this, during the construction of walls, a heater is placed between the skin. It can be glass or mineral wool, polystyrene.

The inner part of the wall can be sheathed with wooden or PVC lining, chipboard or fiberboard sheets and other facing materials. For long-term operation of the garage, the outer surfaces should also be lined. In this case, I also use lining, lined with decorative bricks, siding.

With a skillful approach, it will take you a little more than a month, including the time for drying the foundation. You can buy the necessary materials in the markets or in specialized stores, explore the options on the Internet, and then the task of “how to build a frame garage with your own hands” will no longer seem so impossible. Good luck!

There is not always a need for a major garage. Often, the safety of the car can be ensured by the simplest structure, which will require less labor and money costs. We have prepared step-by-step instructions for building a frame-type garage, indicating all the necessary steps.

Benefits of a frame garage

The departure from frame buildings is most often due to their low burglary resistance. But if the garage is not located in a cooperative, but on a habitable site and under supervision, low penetration protection no longer looks like such a weighty argument. In the end, the difficulty of hacking is determined by the most vulnerable element of protection, and this is almost always a gate, window or front door.

Frame construction requires much less resources - both monetary and labor. A wooden frame is easy to assemble with a couple of assistants in just one day, in terms of capital investments, such a structure will cost at least a third cheaper than masonry.

In addition, such construction is an excellent opportunity to rationally dispose of the lumber left after the assembly of scaffolding for building a house. For garages up to six meters wide, boards 50x100-150 mm are perfect, you only have to buy materials for flooring and wall cladding.

Foundation and floor

For a light frame structure, it is recommended to arrange a non-buried or shallow strip foundation with a width of 250 mm or more with a 30-40 cm filling of non-porous material (sand, gravel). If a viewing hole is planned in the future, there is nothing to be done, you will have to take as a basis a foundation with a sole below the freezing depth and ensure its high-quality waterproofing.

From the side of the entrance in the tape, an underestimated part should be made, the upper plane of which is brought flush with the zero mark of the floor. The rest of the foundation is carried out 200-250 mm above the ground level in the adjacent territory, regardless of the degree of deepening.

1. Sand preparation. 2. Strip foundation. 3. Concrete floor. 4. Sand preparation for screed. 5. Compacted soil

Reinforcement of the tape is standard: four rods of 12 or 14 mm each, connected with structural reinforcement through 60-80 mm. The thinning from the entrance side is reinforced by the same scheme, but denser. The issue of laying the studs and linking them to the working reinforcement should immediately be resolved. You can leave the anchoring after 100-120 cm, or you can fix it with anchor bolts, provided that there is a sufficient concrete cover at the top edge.

The floor in the frame garage can be bulk, monolithic concrete or wood, there is no fundamental difference. We only note that when constructing a wooden floor, it makes sense to cast a foundation with a ledge of 5-6 cm in order to rest the logs on it. It is better to excavate the soil and fill the gravel immediately, but it is advisable to postpone the final installation of the floor until the completion of the roofing work.

How to assemble a wall frame

The frame system of the garage consists of four sections. First, it is recommended to make the side walls, then the back and front. Before assembly, the wood must be impregnated with an antiseptic and dried in natural conditions.

Each of the walls is initially knocked down in the form of a rectangular frame. For the upper and lower bases, only solid boards should be taken; vertical elements can be spliced ​​with a hem with a bandage.

To assemble the frame, it is better to use ready-made steel corners and scarves

If you have been embedding anchor studs in the foundation, first try on the board of the bottom base and drill the required number of holes. Position the wall frame so that the foundation protrudes 25-30 mm from the outside. On a flat area, lay out two longitudinal boards in parallel, add two racks between them at the edges. Knock down the corners, align the diagonals and secure the corner joints with gussets.

Next, add vertical racks to the frame in increments of 60 cm. It is possible that the installation step of the racks will have to be recalculated so that they are not located in the places where the embedded studs pass. Before installing the walls, roll out 2-3 layers of roofing material along the foundation tape.

For fastening, use ruffy nails 100-120 mm long. When one section is knocked down, it is lifted and installed on the foundation, then attached to it by means of embedded studs or anchor bolts. Full tightening of the fasteners is not carried out until all four sections are assembled together.

After installing the side walls, they need to be supported from the ground with slopes nailed to the frame with one nail for free adjustment of verticality. When both sections are set on a plumb line, and the distance between them is verified in several places, 3-4 boards must be thrown on top for temporary fastening.

The back wall of the garage is usually deaf and is assembled according to the same principle as the side walls. After lifting and installing it, it is necessary to provide temporary fastening of the corners with braces. The opening in the front wall of the garage requires a reinforced top lintel. Usually the front wall is assembled from two narrow sections located on the sides of the gate. Their height is lower than the rest, so that a powerful beam can be laid on top, assembled from 3-4 boards 50 mm thick, placed on edge and tightened with bolts.

After assembling the main frame, you need to align its geometry: check the diagonals in the upper and lower planes, achieve the verticality of the walls. Next, adjacent sections are fastened together with braces, nailed no closer than a meter to the corner, then the final tightening of the fasteners to the foundation is carried out.

Roof and floor construction

After assembling the frame of the walls, an almost finished Mauerlat for the truss system is formed. First, on the outer edges of the upper bases of the side walls, you need to install on the edge and screw one longitudinal edge with self-tapping screws from below to give the Mauerlat an L-shaped profile. After that, boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm are inserted between the ribs and attached to both parts of the Mauerlat, acting as floor beams.

Instead of boards, pre-assembled trusses can be immediately inserted and attached if the garage does not have a habitable room on the second floor. Farms should be assembled according to a pattern in the form of a narrow rectangular trapezoid. The upper boards of the trusses, forming the slope (or slopes) of the roof, must be located at an angle of at least 15º and have an overhang of 30-40 cm to form cornice overhangs. At the base of the farm there are two right angles, which are inserted exactly between the Mauerlat ribs. It is recommended to fasten beams and boards for trusses with a tongue-and-groove connection, reinforced with studded plates on the sides.

For such a frame garage, it is possible to install an uninsulated attic. When the floors are installed, L-shaped assemblies rise to the Mauerlat, knocked down by a jumper 50-60 cm from the top pairing. The tails of the rafters should have an extension of 30-35 cm beyond the Mauerlat and have a hem for quick and technological fastening. In total, each tail of the rafters rests with a groove on the Mauerlat rib, fastened with two self-tapping screws to its horizontal bar and floor beam.

To protect the frame from getting wet, the rafters are temporarily fastened from the inside with several longitudinal boards. Next, on the slopes, you need to stretch the plastic film and, to fix it, fill the counter-lattice with strips of 15-20 mm thick. When it comes down to the roofing, fill the horizontal sheathing and install any suitable type of coating.

For a soft roof, the lathing is carried out with a wide board (including unedged) with small gaps of 2-3 cm

Installation of doors, windows, gates

With window openings, no difficulties will arise. For natural light, a width of 60 cm between the posts is enough, just add two horizontal bars and insert the window frame.

If an additional door is required in the back or side wall, one of the racks will have to be cut out, and then the top jumper should be made from it. At the same time, to design an opening under the door, you can either add two racks on the sides, or spread the door block inside the existing opening with blocks of 15-20 cm each.

The greatest difficulty is the arrangement of the opening for the gate. It should be framed with at least a double post on each side and, as mentioned, a reinforced horizontal beam on top. This is sufficient for the installation of up-and-over or roller doors. With swing doors, it becomes difficult to perceive the load when the wings are open. Two beams must be added to the double pillars of the opening, which continue under the floor system until about the middle of the length of the garage.

Insulation, cladding, finishing

Final construction - frame sheathing and finishing. Instead of the common chipboard sheathing, it is quite possible to use moisture-resistant GKL or GVL from the inside. Gypsum boards will ease the construction budget and remove the need to comply with temperature gaps. Of the additional difficulties - the addition of horizontal crossbars between the racks for joining sheets and stuffing additional strips for corner mates.

Preparing a frame garage for sheathing: 1. Wind protection. 2. Lathing. 3. Gable

From the outside, the frame racks will serve as an excellent basis for siding, you just need to pre-stuff the windproof membrane. The transition from the walls to the plinth of the cladding is carried out with a simple angular profile that prevents moisture from flowing inside.

Outside, it is also possible to install solid sheathing from OSB or LSU for painting, plastering or brick cladding. So even a frame garage can be decorated in a single style solution with the rest of the buildings on the site.

There is no need to insulate such a garage. After parking the car, the residual heat of the engine will heat the air and cause moisture condensation on the body, so the faster the air cools inside, the longer the stored equipment will last.