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When it is necessary to install a pump to increase the water pressure. Pump to increase water pressure: a solution to the problem of low pressure

You open the tap - and water flows out of it in a sluggish stream. Washing your hands or rinsing the dishes, with grief in half, is still enough, but taking a full shower is no longer possible. Even worse is the situation with complex household appliances- the gas water heater simply does not start, and the notorious “Error” is displayed on the displays of the washing machine or dishwasher.

The situation is very sad, but, alas, quite common. To a greater extent, residents of apartments in urban high-rise buildings face it - during peak hours of water intake, the pressure in the water supply system on the upper floors drops sharply. But the owners of houses "on the ground" connected to the city's water supply networks are not at all immune from this - we have to admit that the quality of public utilities services is often still very far from acceptable indicators. So, some action needs to be taken.

It would seem that the way out is obvious. It is necessary to install a pump to increase the water pressure, and the problem will go away on its own. However, such a measure often becomes a “half-way solution”, that is, it does not completely remove the issue. And in some cases, installing only such a pump becomes a waste of money, since a deeper, more systematic approach is required.

In the technical documentation of pumping equipment, in articles and descriptions on this topic, on instrument scales, various units pressure in the plumbing. To immediately clarify this issue, here is a small table that will help you navigate in the future:

	Bar	Technical atmosphere (at)	Water column meter	Kilopascal (kPa)
1 bar	1	1.0197	10.2	100
1 technical atmosphere (at)	0.98	1	10	98.07
1 meter water column	0.098	0.1	1	9.8
1 kilopascal (kPa)	0.01	0.0102	0.102	1

We do not need too high accuracy at the household level, therefore, in order to assess our conditions, with quite acceptable level errors, you can get by with an approximate ratio:

1 bar ≈ 1 atm ≈ 10 m of water Art. ≈ 100 kPa ≈ 0.1 MPa

So, what pressure is considered normal for a home plumbing network?

In accordance with current regulations, water must be supplied to the end user at a pressure of about 4 bar. With such a pressure, the work of almost all existing plumbing and household appliances– from conventional faucets and cisterns to hydromassage showers or bathtubs.

However, in practice, such an even pressure is extremely rare. Moreover, deviations to a smaller or larger side are very significant. Both phenomena can seriously affect the correct operation of the home water supply system. So, when the threshold is exceeded by 6÷7 bar, depressurization may occur at pipe joints, on shut-off and control valves. With jumps up to 10 bar, there is a high probability of more serious accidents.

But it is, in principle, not difficult to deal with high blood pressure - it is enough to install at the entrance to a house or apartment special device, a gearbox that will equalize the pressure in the internal wiring of the water supply system, and eliminate the phenomena of water hammer. With the right choice or setting of the gearbox, all draw-off points will maintain optimal value water pressure.

The problem is much more acute if there is a systematic lack of water pressure in the system. And here, for a start, it is worth trying to figure out what is the cause of this phenomenon. Well, for this it is necessary, first of all, to have a clear idea of what pressure is in your local home water supply, whether it changes depending on the time of day or the point of draw-off, how things are, for example, with neighbors in the landing and in the riser - above and below . Such information will help to clarify the picture in many ways.

The easiest way, of course, is to measure the pressure using a conventional pressure gauge. Such a device is not so expensive, and it makes sense to install it permanently at the entrance to an apartment or house. Even better - mount a mesh at the entrance wash filter coarse cleaning water with a built-in pressure gauge - two problems are solved at once. It remains only for a certain period to regularly take and record readings about four times a day - during peak consumption hours in the evening and in the morning, in "normal" daytime and night mode. Then it will be possible to conduct a preliminary analysis of the situation.

You can have a portable pressure gauge on the farm or rent from friends. It is easy to temporarily connect it, for example, with a flexible hose, to the water sockets of mixers or even directly to the spouts, if the threaded connection allows.

Can also be made homemade simple manometer, which, despite the primitive design, is nevertheless able to give very accurate results.

For the manufacture of such a device, a transparent plastic tube with a length of about 2000 mm is required. Its diameter does not matter much - the main thing is that it is convenient to make a tight connection with a fitting that will be screwed, for example, onto a tap spout instead of a divider nozzle.

Before starting the measurement, the tube is connected to the tap (in principle, it can be any other water outlet) and is located vertically. A short-term start-up of water is made, and then they achieve such a position that the liquid level is approximately one horizontal line with a connection point so that there is no air gap on the side of the tap (shown in the diagram - the left fragment). In this position, the height of the air section of the tube is measured ( ho).

Then the top opening of the cabin is tightly closed with a cork to prevent air from escaping. The faucet is fully open. Water, compressing the air column, will rise. When the position stabilizes, after a minute or two, it remains to measure the height of the experimental air column ( he).

With these two values, it is easy to calculate the pressure using the following formula:

Rv = Ro × (ho /he)

Rv- pressure in the water supply at a given point.

Ro is the initial pressure in the tube. It will not be a big mistake to take it for atmospheric, that is, 1.0332 at.

ho and he - experimentally obtained air column heights

Calculator for experimental determination of water pressure

Enter the results of two measurements and get the result

atmospheric

Ho - height of the air column before opening the valve, mm

He - the height of the air column with a fully open valve, mm

If measurements are taken at several points, and the readings are different, then this is a sure sign that a possible cause of insufficient pressure on a particular plumbing or household appliance lies in the defects of the internal plumbing itself. It is possible that the old pipes are overgrown with rust or limescale, and no additional equipment will change the situation - you will have to change the piping.

Require from such a water supply normal pressure- just naive

The reason for the drop in pressure can be filters that have not been changed or cleaned for a long time - and carrying out appropriate prevention immediately puts everything in place.

You should compare the readings with similar parameters in neighboring apartments located on the same level - they should be approximately equal. Sometimes this helps to identify the problem that lies in the water riser.

It would be nice to find out the state of affairs in neighboring apartments vertically - how much of a problem reduced pressure affects them. As the floor height increases, the pressure (in meters of water column) should decrease by approximately the excess value.

And, finally, if, of course, it is possible, it is advisable to find out the pressure on the "sunbeds" of the house, that is, on the collectors in the basement, to which the risers are connected along the porches. It is possible that the public utilities fulfill their obligations, and the water pressure to the risers is normal.

This means that the area of \u200b\u200bthe problem will be localized - often the “pioneer” of all the troubles becomes the owner of the apartment living down the same riser, who, when carrying out repairs in his bathroom, narrowed the diameter of the pipe for one reason or another - “it’s cheaper”, “it’s more convenient and more beautiful” , “as an experienced plumber suggested” or even “everything is fine with me, but the rest do not bother me.” Here you will either have to agree on a good one, or take administrative measures through public utilities.

If the pressure on the house collector is also weak, you should “get the truth” from the public utilities, since the quality of the service they provide does not meet the requirements. Whether it will be possible to achieve something is still a big question, since you can hear a lot of reasons: from requiring replacement main pipelines to the point of impossibility at present to install new pumping equipment to replace the obsolete one.

What can be done?

If all the steps taken of the “administrative plan” have not yielded results, and there is not enough pressure to ensure the correct operation of plumbing and household appliances, technological measures will have to be taken. Here you will need to install one or another additional equipment. But, again, to say that a pump to increase water pressure will become a panacea would be naive.

Such a measure will become effective only if the water always flows almost uninterrupted, but its pressure is not enough to trigger household appliances. For example, the owner of a private house connected to the main, in which there is constantly a pressure of no higher than 1 - 1.5 bar, may well be able to install a pump at the entrance to the house or even in front of the draw-off point, which requires higher rates. To some extent, this is also acceptable in urban high-rise buildings, but again - with a stable water supply, but with a "deficit" of pressure.

If the "failures" of pressure reach the point that on the upper floors there is often a complete disappearance of water from the taps, the booster pump will not justify itself. Firstly, he needs to “lean” on the minimum allowable pressure in the pipe for this model in order to give the desired value at the output, and he cannot create anything from the void. Secondly, by increasing the pressure, the pump necessarily creates a certain vacuum behind. In case of insufficient pressure, a tap open on any lower floor turns into a “hole” through which air can be sucked in. The pump will start trying to pump air, and in the best case, if it is equipped with a dry-running protection system, it will simply turn off all the time, but if not, it will quickly burn out. And thirdly, by somehow improving the situation in his apartment, the owner of the pump unwittingly worsens the situation in neighboring ones.

What is the way out? There are several of them, but not all of them will be easy to implement.

1. Install a pumping station operating in automatic mode, preferably with a hydroaccumulating membrane tank of the maximum possible volume. The main element of such a station is centrifugal pump self-priming type, that is, capable of independently, even at “zero” pressure at the inlet, to raise water from a certain depth (for example, from a basement collector or offline source) and create a very significant pressure at the outlet.

The pressure switch, which is usually included in the station kit, will ensure that the pump motor is turned on only when the pressure in the home (apartment) water supply drops below the set level. The storage tank will create a reserve supply of water, which will also be under pressure and consumed in cases where the water supply in the main is temporarily interrupted.

Thus, the pumping station both raises the water up and creates required pressure in the system, and provides a certain supply of water. The larger the volume of the storage tank, the less often the pump will turn on.

The solution is excellent, one might say - optimal for private households, but in multi-storey buildings, a lot of difficulties can arise with it. If the pressure in the risers is weak, then many residents of the upper floors suffer from this. If they begin to get out of the situation in this way, then a real rivalry “for the stream” will flare up in the house, since the total amount of incoming water will still be insufficient for everyone. Again, the same situation as mentioned above - sucking water out of the pipes will lead to airing with all the ensuing consequences. Scandals and trials are inevitable on this out, "denunciations" against each other to the operating organization or to the "vodokanal". And the installation of such a station without the knowledge of public utilities may well result in a decent fine, since the equipment introduces an imbalance in common work plumbing system at home.

There is one more limitation: self-priming pumps are usually limited in depth (in the case of a high-rise building - height) of water rise - about 7 ÷ 8 meters. That is, for the first or second floor - it will do, the third - already at a stretch, and above - it is unlikely to cope.

2. Install a volumetric non-pressure tank in your home so that it is constantly replenished during normal water supply hours, even if with insufficient pressure. The simplest float valve will prevent the tank from overflowing.

If such a container for at least 200 ÷ 500 liters can be installed at the height of the ceiling, then water from it will either flow by gravity to the points of water intake, in front of which it is already possible to install conventional compact pressure boosting pumps, or it will be possible to mount a booster at the common outlet of the tank. pump, the power and performance of which will be enough for all consumption devices. As an option - a compact pumping station with a small volume hydraulic accumulator, which will already be powered from a storage tank. In this case, the tank can not be lifted up, but to find for it the most convenient place for the existing conditions.

The main obstacle to the implementation of such a project is the tightness of standard city apartments: there is simply nowhere to install even a small capacity. Again, such an output seems to be optimal for a private developer.

However, it is possible that it will be possible to cooperate with neighbors who also have a similar problem in order to install a collective storage tank. large capacity, for example, in attic Houses. The scheme will be the same - water flows to each apartment by gravity, and then the owners themselves decide at what points they need to install a boost pump.

A possible solution to the problem is with the installation of a collective storage tank

3. The third option also implies cooperation - this is the installation of a powerful pumping station with an impressive storage tank and a hydraulic accumulator for the collected funds, so that the power and productivity of the equipment is enough for the entire riser. Thus, in the basement it will be possible to have a significant non-pressure and pressurized supply of water, and all residents will equally receive it in the right amount and with the required pressure.

It is clear that this is easy to say, but very difficult to perform, since it can be extremely difficult to persuade people. Nevertheless, there are plenty of examples of such collective interaction of the residents of the house.

Now that the main possible applications of pumps that increase water pressure are considered, we can turn to an overview of the equipment.

Choosing a pump to increase water pressure

So, if the situation can be completely corrected just by installing a pump to increase the water pressure, then you need to know how to choose the right device.

All pumps of this class can be divided into two large groups- These are devices with a dry and wet rotor.

Glandless pumps are more compact, less noisy, do not require any maintenance work, since all moving parts are lubricated by the pumped liquid. They are installed directly into a pipe, for example, in front of a household appliance or a tapping point, and do not require any additional fasteners.

A typical representative of pumps with a "wet rotor"

Their disadvantage is their low performance and the additional water pressure created. In addition, there are restrictions on the installation method - the rotor axis of the pump electric drive must be in a horizontal position.

Pumps with a dry rotor can be immediately distinguished even outwardly due to the pronounced asymmetric shape - taken to the side power block which has its own system air cooling– located on the axis of the fan impeller. This arrangement most often involves additional cantilever mounting of the device to the wall surface.

Pumps with a "dry rotor" usually require additional wall mounting

Such devices usually have higher operational characteristics, and at right choice and the installation is sometimes able to "serve" several points of water intake at once.

Pumps with a dry rotor require regular lubrication of friction units, and during operation they can create, albeit small, but still noticeable noise - this must also be taken into account when choosing a place for their installation.

In general, devices of this class of both types, both in design and in principle of operation and in installation rules, are very similar to circulation pumps that are built into the circuit autonomous system heating. To avoid repetition, the reader who is interested in these issues can be directed to the relevant publication.

What you need to know about circulation pumps?

These compact devices provide a stable movement of the coolant along the contours of the heating system. Read about the device, calculation of the required operational parameters, selection and installation in a special publication of our portal.

The fundamental difference lies in the fact that circulation pumps, as a rule, operate in constant mode while the heating system is on. Devices designed to increase the pressure in the water supply system do not require such a mode - they should only work when necessary, when it is necessary to provide pressure.

There are two approaches to solving this issue.

Some inexpensive pumps have only manual control - that is, the user turns them on himself as needed. This is certainly not the best approach given the forgetfulness of some people. In addition, if the device, for example, ensures the operation of a washing machine, then the water for washing and rinsing is taken periodically, in accordance with the program, that is most pumping equipment effort cycle is not required.
The optimal solution is to install a device equipped with a flow sensor. The pump will start only when the tap is opened and, of course, if there is water in the pipeline. This will unload the device from unnecessary work, and prevent it from overheating or burnout from a “dry run”.

The flow sensor may be included with the pump or purchased separately. It is always installed after the pump in the direction of water movement.

If the water pressure in the water supply is unstable, that is, it can be normal, but becomes insufficient at certain periods, then an optional, but very useful addition can be a pressure switch that is installed at the inlet, in front of the pump.

A useful addition to the wiring diagram is a pressure switch

The pump power circuit in this case is switched through a relay, which can be configured in such a way that it works and turns on the power to the device only in case of insufficient pressure in the system. With normal head pressure, the pump will not turn on even after the flow sensor is triggered.

When choosing a pump, the necessary difference must be taken into account, by which the pressure must be increased for the correct operation of plumbing or household appliances. Do not wait for "outrageous" values - usually this parameter lies in the range of 0.8 ÷ 1.5 bar (8 ÷ 15 meters of water column).

If a pump is purchased for installation on a hot water pipe (there are such situations), then its characteristics must correspond to the operating conditions for elevated temperatures pumped liquid. Typically, such information is indicated in the product data sheets.

An important parameter is the performance of the device - the amount of water pumped per unit of time. The performance must be higher than the average flow at the point of consumption before which the equipment is installed.

When choosing a model, of course, you should give preference to "authoritative" brands, while specifying how available in your area service maintenance, and what warranty obligations apply to this device.

A few popular quality models are shown in the table:

Model name	Short description	Created additional water pressure
"Grundfos UPA 15-90" and "UPA 15-90N"	One of the most popular models of the famous Danish manufacturer. Wet pump. Built-in flow sensor. Silent operation, small dimensions. Usually installed in front of a specific point of consumption (washing machine, gas water heater, etc.). Model UPA 15-90 - cast iron body, UPA 15-90 - stainless steel. The minimum inlet pressure is 0.2 bar. Power - 110 watts. Maximum productivity - up to 25 l./min.	8 m w.c. Art.
Wilo-PB-201EA	Wet rotor pump. Drive power - 200 W. There is an air-cooled engine. Built-in flow sensor - triggering at a flow rate of at least 2 l / min. Connecting pipes - 1". Increased productivity - up to 55 l / min. Silent operation. Console for surface mounting. Able to provide pressure at several points of consumption.	15 m of water Art.
Jemix W15GR-15A	Pump with "dry rotor" and air-cooled drive. Power -120 W. Designed for use in cold and hot water supply - permissible water temperature - up to 110 ° C. Productivity - nominal 10 l / min, maximum - 25 l / mi. Branch pipes for tapping into the pipe - 15 mm. The flow sensor is included in the delivery. The control unit allows you to select manual or automatic operation.	10 ÷ 15 m w.c. Art.
Aquatica 774715	Inexpensive pump, usually designed for one point of consumption. "Dry rotor". Brass body. Asynchronous, virtually silent motor. Low power consumption - only 80 watts. Connecting pipes - ¾". Three operating modes. Productivity - 10 l / min. Only for cold water.	up to 10 m water Art.

Video: installing a pump in an apartment to increase water pressure

Choosing a pumping station

So, the second option for a fundamental solution to the problem of ensuring normal water pressure is to install a pumping station.

This device is a surface centrifugal self-priming pump. It can be conventional or equipped with an injector - this technological addition significantly increases the pump's ability to lift water from a considerable depth, but, however, makes its operation more noisy.

The pumping station may already have a built-in membrane-type hydraulic accumulator, or this element of the required volume is purchased separately. Required condition- the presence of a pressure switch, but in this case it is already installed after the pump itself - when the pressure threshold in the accumulator reaches the set pressure threshold, power power unit turns off.

The working pressure in the accumulator is always somewhat excessive - it is calculated in such a way as to ensure the correct operation of all plumbing and home appliances, and at the same time, a certain reserve was also maintained. As the water flows, the pressure drops, and when it reaches a certain lower limit, pre-set by the manufacturer or by the user himself, the relay closes - and the pump again works out the water supply replenishment cycle to the upper threshold.

In fact, the pumping station does not just increase the pressure of water - it creates it itself in a closed home plumbing system and constantly maintains it at a given level. And the presence of a hydraulic accumulator makes it possible to hope for a reserve supply of water in case the supply from an external source (the main network) suddenly stops.

In this case, a flow sensor is not required - the pump does not respond to the current water flow, but to the pressure level in the storage tank.

Usually, pumping stations equipped with pressure gauges - to make it easier to visually control the work.

Installing a pumping station is much more difficult than a conventional tie-in booster pump. It is better not to deal with this issue on your own, but to invite an appropriate specialist.

When installing, it should be noted that there are practically no completely silent pumping stations. This means that it is necessary to provide for a place for it, which, firstly, would be at the entrance of the water supply to the house or apartment, and secondly, would provide the necessary sound insulation for residential premises.

The accumulator can be quite small ...

The hydraulic accumulator included in the pumping station kit can be quite small, literally a few liters. However, it should be remembered that winning in compactness, you can lose in the duration of operation of the device and in power consumption - the smaller the volume of the tank, the more often it will turn on and off pumping unit, the faster its “motor resource” is consumed.

Nothing prevents you from purchasing a hydraulic accumulator of the required volume - they are also sold separately. For two people, a 24-liter tank is usually enough. For a family of 3-5 people, a hydraulic accumulator with a capacity of 50 liters will already be required.

Well, if free space allows, and there are interruptions in the water supply from city networks, then a non-pressure storage tank with a float valve will not hurt either - the pumping station will draw water from it. This scheme has already been mentioned above.

The optimal solution - the pumping station takes water from a volumetric non-pressure storage tank

Since the pumping station is usually installed to ensure the operation of the entire water supply network of a frequent house or apartment, when choosing a model, you must Special attention on the pressure it creates and on productivity. It will be of little use if, taking into account the height and remoteness of the draw-off points in the farthest section, the pressure is insufficient. In the practice of private households, this can be, for example, a garden tap through which watering is done. personal plot. Therefore, when choosing, you should focus on the most distant points in height and length. If these are just mixers, then they will have enough pressure of 10 ÷ 15 meters (1 ÷ 1.5 bar). In the case of installing equipment that requires special pressure parameters, they are taken as the basis.

The drop in water pressure in the pipeline inevitably leads to the fact that any instantaneous water heaters, including gas water heaters stop working, as well as washing machines that do not have a storage tank. If the apartment does not hot water even taking a shower can be difficult. Correct selection and the installation of a special pump eliminates this problem.

What is a water pressure booster pump for?

The water supply system is represented by many pipes interconnected by a large number of taps, tees, elbows and other elements. Availability a large number pipe bends helps to reduce pressure, and with increased water consumption by the population and subject to the availability of outdated pumping equipment at stations supplying water, the situation can become catastrophic.

These factors often upper floors apartment buildings are completely without water during the hours when its consumption increases everywhere. If the pressure in the plumbing system drops to below 2 atmospheres, a special pump must be installed to correct the situation.

At the same time, it must be taken into account that in some cases such equipment can only partially improve the situation, and sometimes it is not able to eliminate the problem at all. For example, if low pressure is the result of a clogged or ruptured pipe, it is not possible to cope with this problem by installing a pump. In such cases, only cleaning the pipes and replacing them, if necessary, can correct the situation.

Since the water pump will be used in the future at home, many factors must be taken into account. The first thing you should pay attention to is the power of the device. This is the defining parameter. When choosing a pump, you need to take into account the number of taps and equipment that uses water during operation. Often only powerful devices can meet the needs of residents of an apartment or house.

Existing models of water pressure pumps also differ in the type of control. Some are manual while others are automatic. By increasing the water pressure, any electric pump will create a certain level of noise. This can create some discomfort for residents. When choosing a unit, this parameter must be paid attention to, since many modern models operate almost silently.

In addition, compact models can only be connected to pipes of a certain diameter. Some machines are designed exclusively for cold water supply, while others can be used to pressurize a hot water supply system.

When choosing a pump, you need to consider how much it can raise the water level. This parameter is especially important when choosing a pumping station designed to increase pressure in several apartments of a multi-storey building at once.

To buy a quality device, you need to pay attention to the performance of the device. This parameter determines how much liquid the pump can pump per unit of time. Performance values must necessarily exceed the average water flow.

Some water compressors have additional functions, for example, built-in filter. In addition, you need to pay attention to the manufacturer, since devices from companies that have already earned a good reputation, in most cases, are durable.

Varieties of designs of household pumps

All pumps used to increase the pressure in the water supply system of houses, apartments and cottages can be divided into devices with a "wet" and "dry" rotor. Each option has its own characteristics. Pumps used to increase the pressure of water in pipes with a "wet" rotor are compact in size and make little noise during operation, since their internal parts are lubricated by the pumped liquid.

Such devices have a simple circuit connections. In most cases, they simply cut into the water pipe and work like a flow pump. Such pumps are installed in front of the water intake point or in front of household appliances.

Dry rotor water compressors are more high rates performance. Such devices are used in most cases to serve several points of water intake. A distinctive feature of all water pumps with a "dry" rotor is the location of the main electric pump-pump away from the main body and the presence of a separate air cooling system. The rotor does not interact with water.

The best wet rotor pumps

Since there are many varieties of pumps with a “wet” rotor on the market, the selection of such an apparatus can be a certain difficulty for people who are not versed in such a technique. To the most best models dry rotor water pumps, Grundfos UPA 15-90 (N) applies.

This device is equipped with a reinforced body made of cast iron, a terminal box and a flow sensor. Work can be carried out both in automatic and manual mode. The advantages of this device include:

high build quality;
overheat protection;
low noise figure;
resistance to corrosion and wear;
durability;
compactness.

The disadvantages of this model include high cost and expensive post-warranty repairs.

In addition, experts often recommend a pump with a "wet" rotor made in Germany - Wilo PB-201EA. This device has a reliable cast iron body with a special coating, bronze nozzles, a plastic wheel and a shaft with of stainless steel. This pump has a mode switch. The advantages of such devices include:

use of materials resistant to corrosion;
low noise level;
the possibility of pumping hot water;
overheat protection;
simplicity in terms of installation;
long service life.

The disadvantages of this apparatus include relatively large dimensions. In addition, such a pump can only be mounted horizontally.

High-quality models of pumps with a "dry" rotor

In some cases, it is advisable to use pumps with a "dry" rotor. The best and at the same time inexpensive devices of this type include the Jemix W15GR-15 A.

This unit has a durable cast iron body, but the motor shell is made of aluminum, and the rotary wheel is made of durable plastic. Using the switch, you can configure such a pump to work in both manual and automatic modes. The advantages of this model include:

high performance characteristics;
endurance high temperatures water;
overheat protection;
dry running fuse;
resistance to corrosion;
relatively low price.

The obvious disadvantages of this model include the possibility of heating during operation. In addition, this unit is very noisy. The service life of this unit is relatively short.

Among other things, noteworthy models of pumps for boosting pressure, characterized by a "dry" rotor, include the Comfort X15GR-15. This model equipped with stainless steel housing, flow switch and vane cooler. This unit works in both manual and automatic mode. The advantages of this pump include:

small dimensions;
low power consumption;
the possibility of using for pumping water with high temperature;
ease of operation and installation;
resistance to corrosion;
relatively low price.

Please note that this unit makes a lot of noise during operation. In addition, many users note that the power cord of this pump is short, so it is often necessary to use a carrier.

Pumping stations for increasing water pressure

Pumping stations deserve special attention. Good feedback has a Grundfos MQ3-35 model. This is one of the best pumping stations designed to increase water pressure. It has automatic control. This device is equipped with an electric motor, a self-priming pump, a hydraulic accumulator. Such a pumping station is controlled by automatic system, equipped with a pressure switch, a protective block and a flow sensor. The advantages of this device include:

design reliability;
wear resistance;
built-in protection system;
ease of installation;
low noise levels;
durability.

It must be borne in mind that this unit is only suitable for pumping cold water. In addition, in this model the accumulator has a small size.

The Dzhileks "Jumbo" 70/50 N-50 N device is distinguished by good performance. This model has a built-in asynchronous motor, ejector, centrifugal pump, horizontal hydraulic accumulator, pressure gauge, pressure switch. The device has good power and performance. The advantages of this model include:

resistance to corrosion;
built-in protection against overheating;
ease of installation;
the convenience of use;
relatively low cost;
water level control.

The main disadvantage of this unit is high level noise generated during operation. In addition, this model does not have built-in protection against dry running. The device can operate at a water temperature not exceeding +35°C. For effective cooling of the mechanism, it is necessary that the air temperature is no more than +50°C.

Sources:

The best pumps to increase water pressure
Automatic pump to increase the water pressure in the apartment - selection and installation

For normal operation household washing and heating appliances require a certain pressure water in the plumbing. This is especially true for flowing electrical and gas water heaters. Under reduced pressure built into them protective devices disable these devices completely. There are several ways to solve this problem.

You will need

Manometer, plumbing steel cable, calculator.

Instruction

In autonomous (located in rural areas) systems, there are several reasons leading to a drop in pressure in the water supply. First of all, check the correct operation circuit breaker pumping station. To do this, connect a pressure gauge to the outlet pipe of the pumping station and turn it on. The motor should turn off when pressure will rise to 2.5 atmospheres. Then slightly open the shut-off valve and slowly drain the water from the accumulator. When pressure drops to 1, the pumping station motor should turn on. Then check pressure air in the air chamber, it should be about 2 atmospheres. If it's lower, raise it to that level. If the test results differ greatly from the above calculations, have the pumping station repaired.

In the event that when you open a tap in the house, the water briefly flows under high pressure, and then the pressure decreases significantly, you are clogged. Clean it with sanitary steel. If this is not possible, replace the damaged section of the pipeline.

In case if pressure water in the water supply system periodically decreases and rises without any system, determine the maximum flow water in home. To do this, count the number of water distribution points. Per point calculated flow water 0.6 cubic meters water at one o'clock. The calculation assumes that two-thirds of the total can work simultaneously.

Example: together with a heating column, a washing machine and a machine (if any), there are 5 water distribution points in the house. So multiply 3×0.6 and get the value of the maximum flow water in this house. It is equal to 1.8 cubic meters per hour. recount given value to liters per minute. To do this, divide 1.8 by 60 and multiply by a thousand. The resulting number will be the value of the maximum flow water in a minute.

Check if the performance of your pumping station matches the maximum flow rate water in home. When there is insufficient performance pressure water in the water supply system

Without running water, life in apartment buildings unthinkable. But not always its presence pleases apartment owners. It's all about the water pressure, which can be so low that household appliances such as a washing machine or dishwasher geyser they just refuse to work. It even comes to the point that water does not flow to the upper floors of houses at all. If it is impossible to somehow increase the total pressure, then you can do this only in relation to your apartment by installing a pump to increase the water pressure in the apartment. Of course, such a step would be rational if the reason for the low pressure does not lie in the supply water riser or clogged water pipes.

The booster water pump is designed to create an acceptable pressure in the water supply. If the pressure in the region of 4 atmospheres is the norm, then in practice we record its decrease to a value of 1-1.5 and even lower. And to work, for example, a washing machine requires a pressure of at least 2 atmospheres. A jacuzzi and a shower cabin will not want to work at such a pressure at all, since they are designed for 4 atmospheres. However, even higher pressure is dangerous for pipelines. Already at a pressure of 7 atmospheres, some elements of the water supply network may be damaged. So pressure must be within certain limits and be stable.

It is especially offensive for the residents of the upper floors during peak hours, when, having come from work in the evening, it is impossible even to wash properly. At the same time, the inhabitants of the lower floors have a normal pressure. In this case, a circulation pump for increasing water pressure, embedded directly in the inlet water main, is able to give residents a complete feeling of comfort.

What parameters differ in booster pumps

Pumps that increase the pressure of water in the water supply system differ in several ways:

1. By type of management.

Manual control, in which the device is constantly on or off. The owners only make sure that there is water in the system. When working “dry”, the serviceability of the device is not guaranteed. It can just burn out from overheating. Therefore, such a device turns on when performing some one-time operations, and after their completion it turns off;
Automatic control. A special sensor turns on the unit when the need arises. The same sensor turns off automatic pump increasing water pressure when there is no water in the system.

2. By allowable temperature water in pipes.

The point is that not all household pumps to increase the water pressure in the apartment can transport cold and hot substances. This indicator should be guided when buying a pump.

There are 3 types of pumps:

apparatus for cold water only;
device for pumping only hot water;
universal device for working with liquids of any temperature.

3. According to the pump cooling method. The cooling system protects the pump from possible overheating.

Can be of two types:

Cooling by the flow of liquid flowing through the pump ("wet rotor"). They work almost silently. May overheat if operated without water;
Cooling by rotating blades mounted on a shaft ("dry rotor"). Such devices are characterized increased level noise, but greater performance.

Features of self-priming pumping station

In apartments located on the upper floors of high-rise buildings, water may not reach at all. The way out in this situation is to install a self-priming pumping station. A typical station consists of a pump, a pressure switch and a membrane tank (hydraulic accumulator). The pump supplies water to the tank, from which it is supplied to the water points under a certain pressure pre-set by the owner using a pressure switch.

Tip: Some pumping stations may be without a hydraulic accumulator, but it is recommended to purchase equipment with an accumulation tank into which water will be pumped. The larger it is, the longer the station will last, since the pumping unit will turn on less often.

The station pumps liquid into the tank, after which it turns off. However, the consumer can use the water from the tank even if it is not in the water supply at all. When the water leaves the tank, the relay will turn the station back on.

Note that such a pump can also be used to increase the water pressure in the country, both for water supply and for irrigation.

Before buying a station, check its maximum pressure. For example, self-priming unit increasing water pressure Grundfos JP Booster 6-24L will be able to supply water with a maximum pressure of up to 48 m, and its tank volume is quite impressive - 24 liters.

What to look for when choosing

When buying an electric water pump to increase pressure, check with a consultant for the following nuances:

power. The more powerful the device, the more consumers will be able to enjoy its benefits. Consider the number of taps in the apartment and household appliances connected to the water supply;
the noise level that different models different;
certain pump models are designed for specific pipe sections. If you use a device for a water supply system with an inappropriate cross section, the pump will work with overloads, and the pressure will be less than the calculated one;
the height of the water level. A pump for water pressure in a water supply system, designed for a lower load, may simply not reach the liquid to the desired level (this item applies to the purchase of a pumping station);
the size of the unit also matters, because sometimes it has to be installed in very small rooms in which the entrance to the apartment is located;
An important factor is the reliability and fame of the manufacturer.

Installation of equipment in the apartment

Installation of a water pressure booster pump in an apartment is carried out in the following sequence:

The pipe on which the pump will be installed is marked taking into account the length of the pump and adapters.
Water is shut off in the apartment.
The pipe is cut in two marked places.
A thread is cut from the outside of the cut ends of the pipe.
Adapters with internal threads are screwed onto the pipes.
The fittings included in the kit are screwed into the adapters. When installing the pump, be guided by the arrow on the body of the device, which shows the direction of fluid flow.
A three-core cable is pulled from the electrical panel to the pump. It is advisable to equip a separate outlet near the pump, and connect the pump through a separate RCD.
Turn on the pump and check it. Pay attention to the absence of leaks from under the fittings. Tighten fasteners if necessary. For better sealing, use FUM tape by winding it around the thread.

Popular Models

Tip: try to choose a pump made by a well-known company that specializes in the production of such equipment. These manufacturers include Grundfos, Jemix, Wilo.

Consider the most popular data models of manufacturers.

Wilo PB-088EA

This is a compact pipe-mounted model designed to pressurize cold and hot water pipes. For cooling, a flowing liquid is used. There is a flow sensor that turns on the pump when water consumption starts. The Wilo water pressure booster pump operates in two modes: automatic and manual mode. Protected against overheating and dry running. The device is quiet, with an anti-corrosion coating applied to it.

Specifications Wilo PB-088EA:

maximum pressure - 9.5 m;
working environment temperature 0 - +60 degrees;
power - 0.09 kW;
productivity - 2.1 cubic meters per hour;
connection diameter - 15 mm or 1/2 inch.

For this pump for increasing the water pressure in the apartment, the price will be about 4,000 rubles.

The Grundfos pump for increasing water pressure is mounted on an apartment pipeline due to its small size and weight. Works with water of any temperature. It has protection against overheating and dry running. Type of cooling - water. The pump has an anti-corrosion coating and is characterized by a low noise level.

The device has 3 operating modes:

"OFF" - disabled. The liquid circulates in the pipes without the participation of a pump.
"MANUAL" - forced activation of the pump. It works constantly, so the dry run protection does not work.
"AUTO" - the pump turns on automatically when a water flow of about 90-120 l / h occurs. When the flow decreases, the pump switches off automatically.

Specifications UPA 15-90:

maximum pressure - 8 m;
working environment temperature +2 - +60 degrees;
power - 0.12 kW;
productivity - 1.5 cubic meters / h;
pipe diameter - 20 mm or 3/4 inch.

The average cost is 6000 rubles.

Jemix W15GR-15A

This device maintains the optimum pressure of the working medium in the system. The engine is cooled by an electric fan ("dry rotor"). Works in manual or automatic modes. As a disadvantage, the excessive noise of the operating pump is noted.

Specifications Jemix W15GR-15 A:

Maximum pressure - 15 m;
working environment temperature 0+110 degrees;
power - 0.12 kW;
productivity - 1.5 cubic meters per hour;
connection diameter — 15 mm.

The price for it is within 3000 rubles.

Proper installation of a pump to increase water pressure with automation will provide the apartment's water needs for long years. During the installation process, adhere to the following recommendations:

For more long work It is highly desirable to install a mechanical filter at the pump inlet. Thus, you will protect the equipment from foreign particles entering it;
The device must be installed in a dry place in a heated room. At negative temperatures, the water in the pump may freeze, damaging the inside of the device;
A shut-off valve must be installed upstream of the pump. This will make it possible to carry out preventive maintenance of equipment when the water flow is turned off;
Gradually, during operation, the vibration acting on the pump can loosen the device, which may cause leaks at the points of its attachment. Therefore, first check the tightness of the connections.

Well-chosen and well-chosen installed pump to increase the working water pressure in the apartment water supply will solve your problems associated with a low level of water pressure in an apartment of any number of storeys.

The life of a modern person without running water is unthinkable. But often the owners of both apartments and summer cottages, for various reasons, are faced with the problem of insufficient pressure in the system. This can bring a lot of inconvenience, because household appliances - a washing machine and dishwasher, a boiler, a geyser, stop working at low water pressure. It happens that water may not flow to the upper floors of skyscrapers at all. In private houses, this problem can occur if the system is based on a storage tank and water flows by gravity.

To solve the problem low pressure there are two ways. You can install a pumping station, but this method is not at all cheap. It will be easier and cheaper to install a boost pump.

1 Characteristics and principle of operation

Plumbing in multi-storey and private houses includes several basic structures and elements. The main one is the pipeline.

One of the important parameters of water supply is the pressure in the system. European water pressure standards are 4-5 atmospheres. This minimum comes from necessary requirements plumbing fixtures. For example, at pressures below 2 atmospheres washing machine won't even start. For various showers, whirlpools require a pressure of 4 atmospheres. And for hydromassage devices, even higher parameters are needed.

However, pressure above 7 atmospheres can seriously damage the water supply network. Therefore, the water pressure in the system must be within the required limits and be stable.

2 Types of pumps

Devices for increasing the pressure in the pipeline are various designs and may differ significantly from each other. By purpose and type of design, booster pumps are divided into two groups.

2.1 Circulating

circulation pumps. This is a standard booster. It promotes the circulation of water in the pipes, which is why it is called circulation. The mechanism is small and compact. It cuts into a certain part of the water supply to increase the pressure and speed of water circulation.

Initially, these devices were intended for heating and hot water systems. In lingering heating circuits, the normal circulation of the carrier in the system is difficult. Therefore, a mechanism that increases pressure is used.

The situation is similar in conventional plumbing. Only here the device is already working, increasing the total pressure of the water.

Circulation pumps consist of a motor that rotates a rotor with an impeller. This small device injects liquid into the chamber and improves the parameters of the pipeline.

2.2 Self-priming

Self-priming booster pumping stations. This unit consists of a surface pump and a hydraulic accumulator. The principle of operation of a self-priming pump is self-priming, that is, it can lift water in pipes even if it is not available. Then the pump pumps a certain level of fluid into the accumulator, on which the system closes. The battery regulates the level of pressure in the system and maintains it at the required level due to the presence check valves and air membrane.

The device is configured using a pressure switch. It is also responsible for the automation of all processes.

2.3 pros and cons of different types of booster pumps

The circulation pump has low power. This increases the pressure by 2-3 atmospheres. Devices with more powerful motors work more efficiently. They pump up to 2-3 cubic meters of water per hour.

Boost stations are more powerful. It consumes at least 2 kW, but raises water up to a distance of 12 meters.

Thus, the circulation pump eliminates the problem in a separate area, and the suction equipment is used to regulate the entire water supply in an apartment or private house. Self-priming devices lift liquid to a height within 12 m.

Circulation pumps are also divided according to the type of media.

For cold water. These are the simplest models, usually made of cheap plastic. They pump water up to 40 degrees.
For hot water. This variety is used in the heating and hot water supply system. Made from stainless steel and high quality rubber.

There are also universal devices that work with liquids of various temperatures.

According to the type of control, the pumps that increase the pressure of water in the system are divided into:

Devices with manual control. The device is either on or off all the time. Just make sure there is fluid in the system. Running "dry" pump can burn out. Therefore, it is turned on to perform one-time actions and turned off after work is completed.
Devices with automatic control. They are equipped with a special sensor that turns on the device if necessary. When there is no water in the system, the sensor turns off the device.

The cooling system protects the mechanism from overheating. It can be of two types.

With a "wet rotor" devices are cooled by water flowing through the pump. Their operation is almost silent, but they can overheat when working without water.
Devices with a "dry rotor" are cooled by rotating blades that are mounted on a shaft. They have a higher level of performance, but are also quite noisy during operation.

Pumps are also divided according to the installation method into:

horizontal;
vertical;
universal.

They differ in the presence of speeds:

single-stage - one pumping speed;
multistage - work of different intensity, depending on the flow of water.

Construction type:

in-line is compact models, unproductive. Embedded in the pipeline;
vortex - high performance, but noisy in operation and require special piping.

2.4 How it works

Booster pumps are running in the following way. When the fluid flow reaches 1.5 cubic meters, the position of the motion sensor petal changes. The pump will then turn on automatically. When fluid flow is stopped, the pump turns off.

Sometimes it is necessary to install two or more step-up devices. This need arises in cases with an improperly designed plumbing system. The cost of additional equipment and pipeline modifications should be calculated. And choose a more economical option.

3 Device selection

When choosing a pressure booster, the characteristics of the equipment, calculations, required tasks, the manufacturer's company, as well as the amount for its purchase are taken into account.

If there is liquid in the pipeline, but its pressure is weak, you can choose a circulation model.

If there is no water in the tap at all, but there is below the level, then you should choose a booster station with a self-priming pump.

For plumbing in a private house, built-in pumps with a wet rotor are usually chosen. This option is easy to install and silent in operation.

Devices with multi-stage adjustment and a stainless steel case are more preferable, but also more expensive.

3.1 What parameters do you pay attention to when choosing?

When choosing a pump responsible for increasing the pressure in the water supply, its parameters are also taken into account.

Power. Must match the needs of the system. The number of taps, characteristics of household appliances are taken into account. Too much power can be harmful.
lift height. A self-priming apparatus designed for smaller loads will not raise water to a sufficient height.
Pipe section size. If the device and pipe different section, then the pump will work with overloads and the pressure will be less than expected.
Noise level.
Apparatus size.

4 Reverse osmosis systems

There are methods for water purification:

mechanical;
reagent;
chemical.

But at present, the reverse osmosis water treatment scheme is becoming more and more popular. It is based on the membrane method, in which water is purified from impurities.

4.1 When is a pump needed?

Pumps for reverse osmosis systems are used if the pressure in the pipeline is below 2.8 atmospheres, which is necessary for the operation of the installation. If the pressure is below the required value, the unit will shut down.

The reverse osmosis scheme with a pump differs from the usual one only in the presence of a pump. The reverse osmosis pump is equipped with high and low pressure sensors that turn off the device if necessary. The device also has dry run protection. If the liquid storage tank is full, then the sensor turns off the pump, and when the water starts to be consumed, it turns on the pump again. The operating voltage of the pump is 24 V and 36 V. The voltage transformer converts the mains voltage into a working pump. Transformer models differ in different types pump The reverse osmosis circuit with a pump allows you to receive clean water around the clock.

5 Hardware installation

Installation of the device for increasing the water pressure is performed as follows.

Mark the pipe on which the pump will be installed, taking into account the length of the device and adapters.
The water is turned off in the room.
The pipe is cut in the marked places.
Threads are made on the cut ends of the pipe.
Adapters with internal threads are screwed onto the pipes.
Fittings that are included in the kit are screwed into the adapters. When installing the device, follow the instructions of the arrow on the body of the device, which indicates the direction of water flow.
A three-core cable is pulled from the electrical panel to the device. It is advisable to equip a socket near the device, connect the device through a separate RCD.
Turn on the pump and check its operation. Check for leaks from fittings. Tighten fasteners if necessary. For effective sealing, FUM tape is used, which is wound around the thread.

5.1 GPD 15-9A BOOSTER PUMP INSTALLATION (VIDEO)

The presence of running water in the house means maintaining a constant pressure and pressure of water. However, the parameters do not always meet the demand, and in such cases it is necessary to install a pump to increase the water pressure. The equipment must be installed, otherwise all household appliances will not cope and will fail. When choosing a booster pump or water supply stations, be sure to correctly calculate the parameters and familiarize yourself with all types of equipment.

For the unit of measurement of pressure in the water supply pipeline, the following values \u200b\u200bare used: 1 bar \u003d 1.0197 atm. = 10.19 m of water column. The standards recommend a level of no more than 4 atm, but the differences are quite significant. In particular, the pressure in the house is more than 7 atm. destroys equipment, but the indicator is less than 2 atm. so small that neither the washing machine nor the dishwasher will work. Minimum pressure for the flawless functionality of all devices 2.5-3 atm. When descending, a booster pump will be required to maintain the pressure level at the desired height.

To select equipment, you will have to specify the problem:

Low tap water pressure;
The upper floors are not provided with water flow at all.

In the first option is suitable a pump to increase the water pressure in the house, and in the second you will have to use the services of a water station.

Model range classification

The calculation will tell you whether you need to add pressure to the water or whether you have to raise the aquifer to the top floor in the house. If only an increase in pressure is sufficient, medium-sized equipment installed in an autonomous or public water supply pipeline is quite suitable. To supply water to the top, you will need an automatic high-pressure centrifugal water pump with a hydraulic accumulator. Such devices are equipped with manual mode and automatic:

manual mode will ensure continuous operation of the unit. But you need to make sure that such a pump for increasing water pressure is not subjected to overheating, otherwise it will fail. Therefore, it will have to be turned off from time to time;
automatic pump controlled by flow sensor. When the tap is turned on, the pump starts up. Advantage: protection against dry running, which means that the unit will work much longer. Profitability is due to the inclusion of the pump only when the tap is opened, which is also a plus for increasing the service life.

According to the method of cooling the unit, the models also differ:

dry rotor - a design cooled by the movements of the impeller blades. This type of booster pump has a high efficiency, low noise, which is very important when working in the water supply system in the house;
wet rotor - a unit cooled by flows of pumped water. It is a virtually silent device compact dimensions which allow you to mount a pump that increases pressure in any pipes.

Important! When choosing pumps to increase the pressure in the water supply, it is worth reading the appointment: universal, for cold or hot water!

Pumping stations: differences and characteristics

If necessary, the delivery of liquid to the upper floors the best unit there will be a self-priming pumping station. The device is able to cope with problems that are beyond the power of pumps in both a private and multi-storey building. You can mount the device with or without a hydraulic accumulator, professionals advise not to neglect the storage tank, especially when it comes to top floors in an apartment building.

Household stations are a surface-type centrifugal pressure boosting pump connected to a hydraulic accumulator and equipped with a pressure switch. With the help of the unit, water is taken from the system and supplied to the storage tank. Even after turning off the device, the user will be able to receive water from the tank, and the pressure will be the most comfortable.

What to consider when choosing a unit?

When choosing a device, you need to consider the following points:

the problem to be solved by the pump or station;
characteristics of the device (created pressure and throughput);
model and manufacturer;
the size of the room where the equipment will have to be placed;
price.

Of course, not every user can independently calculate the performance and the required pressure. Therefore, it is better to call for help from a specialist or contact the company where the equipment is manufactured: often representatives, selling stations and pumps, provide installation services for free. If you need a slight increase in pressure, choose a compact pump that cuts directly into the pipe - it will ideally cope with an increase in pressure of 1-1.5 atmospheres and does not take up much space.

Attention! Professionals often suggest that installing several low-power devices is more profitable than installing equipment of the required power parameter and is quite expensive. This makes sense if you put structures to increase the pressure in the water supply directly in front of the points of analysis.

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