How to renovate an old house with your own hands. Do-it-yourself repair of an old wooden house: a step-by-step process

June 27, 2018 No comments

Proper organization of work during the repair of a wooden house with your own hands

Every building needs repair over time. This is especially true of wooden houses, which are adversely affected by various climatic conditions. Repair procedures can be carried out independently. Repairing an old wooden house with your own hands will cost much less than building a new building. First of all, you will need to evaluate a wooden building and find out whether it is worth making repairs. You can safely start work if the house can still last a long time.

Before starting the repair of a wooden house with your own hands, it will be necessary to assess the degree of wear of all components of the building. This will require a thorough inspection of communications, walls and necessarily the foundation, as well as the roof. For repair work, it will be necessary to prepare the appropriate materials and the required tools. Depending on the condition of the wooden house, a list of materials for repair and their quantity will be formed.

The building before repair work must be freed from furniture and debris. Next, you should inspect the walls and floor for signs of decay, which must be removed immediately. Basically, in a wooden house, the floor is subject to decay, which must be dismantled.

Next, you should check the foundation, which may have cracks or spalls. These defects can be leveled with cosmetic repairs. However, if the foundation is almost completely unusable, then it will need to be restored.

When repairing a wooden house, like any other building, first of all, they take care of putting all communications in order. Such actions will save the cladding of the house from drywall or plastic from unnecessary holes.

Old electrical wiring and rotten pipes should be dismantled. The wires of the electrical network should be placed in special tubes. For plumbing, plastic pipes are the best option. The service life of each system, whether it be light or plumbing, will depend on the correct repair of communications.

As mentioned earlier, the foundation may have minor damage and also severe damage. Depending on the degree of wear, a decision is made on the choice of one or another type of repair. Small chips and cracks in the foundation can be covered with a special solution. Such work will not take much time and effort. With significant wear of the foundation, its complete reconstruction will be required.

In a one-story wooden house, you can apply a quick repair of the foundation with your own hands. This will require screw pile technology. This type of pile can replace any type of foundation around the entire perimeter.

The reconstruction of the foundation begins with raising the building to a certain height using jacks. A heavily damaged foundation requires dismantling and installing a new one. With the help of brickwork, you can strengthen the foundation with an average degree of destruction.

Belt structures can be updated by installing formwork and pouring concrete to the foundation. Rotten reinforcement should not be touched, since it is almost impossible to pull it out.

During the repair of an old wooden house with your own hands, important attention is paid to wooden log cabins. They are durable materials, but over time they also become unusable. Old and rotten log cabins require immediate restoration. The first step is to remove the old finish. Next, you should inspect the logs and remove those crowns that are rotten.

The seams between the log cabins must be sealed. This procedure can be done in two ways. One of them is the old-fashioned method - caulking tow. Seams can be sealed in a modern way using acrylic rubber sealant. Without fail, the log house is treated with an antiseptic.

The outer side of the house (facade) can be sheathed with special panels. Most often, siding is used for cosmetic purposes for the facade. It runs like this:

  • beams are fastened vertically to the facade of a wooden house with the help of brackets;
  • the distance between the beams is approximately 30 cm;
  • mineral wool is laid between the beams;
  • at the final stage, siding is mounted on the beams from the bottom up.

With regards to the inner lining of a wooden structure, it can be done using drywall. All rotten places in the wood must be cut out and replaced with new elements. Such actions will prevent further destruction of the wood. Log cabins should be carefully treated, as wood is capable of accumulating microorganisms and moisture, which will further lead to the destruction of the material.

The next step, when repairing a wooden house with your own hands, will be the reconstruction of windows and doorways. In old houses, as a rule, windows and doors are completely dismantled. They will need to be replaced. Performing this type of work, very often you can encounter distortions. In order for the door frame to stand level, it should only be installed after the walls have been leveled. All gaps between the frame and the wall are filled with mounting foam. It eliminates voids and firmly presses the frame frame to the wall.

It is advisable to change wooden windows in an old house for plastic products. Such work can be done with your own hands, but it is still better to entrust a professional.

With the installation of interior doors should be delayed. Their installation is carried out only when the repair work with the floor and the finishing of the room are completed.

Floor repair

The rotten floor in a wooden house is being dismantled. A high-quality floor involves the creation of a good screed. Using a level, the screed must be leveled. Next, the concrete must be left for about 1 month to dry.

After a while, you can proceed to laying the floor. You can choose any material depending on financial capabilities. When choosing a laminate, you will first need to lay a substrate. Next, you can lay sheets of laminate, connecting them with locks.

If you plan to make a wooden floor, then creating a screed is not required. Boards can be nailed to the joists and sanded with a machine. In order for the floor not to absorb moisture, it is necessary to sprinkle expanded clay between the lags.

In an old house, as a rule, the roof is completely dismantled. Before starting work on the roof, it is necessary to carefully inspect the rafters and frame. Any element on the roof can be replaced with your own hands and quite easily. If you need to replace the rafters, then the beams must first be fixed to each other, after which work can begin.

The main detail of the roof is the Mauerlat. The entire frame rests on it, so all rotten parts should be cut out and replaced with new parts that should be tightly fixed. Mauerlat can be completely replaced. This will require the replacement of its parts around the perimeter.

After the reconstruction of the roof frame, you can proceed with the installation of the coating. During the repair of the roof, it can be insulated with mineral wool.

Finishing work

In the reconstruction of any building, finishing work takes the last place. If during the repair of a wooden house with your own hands, the room was sheathed inside with drywall, then the seams between the sheets will need to be covered with special materials. The putty on the seams must be leveled. Such actions will allow the wallpaper to lie flat during pasting. In addition to wallpaper, you can also apply painting. The wooden floor is varnished. Similar actions must be performed with all wooden parts that are open.

Findings:

Doing repairs in an old wooden house with your own hands is possible without professional skills. The most important thing to follow is the sequence of work. So, for example, it would be inappropriate to sheathe a house with siding, and then replace communications. Such actions will lead to damage to the facade coating and additional costs. For repair work, you must have all the required material and the necessary tools. It is not worth saving on the reconstruction of a wooden house. Properly made repairs from high-quality materials will help the wooden building last for a long period of time.

Video: Do-it-yourself wooden house repair


I never thought that I would be renovating an old wooden house. And that I will like it. After all, the old house has one, but a very good plus, the sedimentary processes in it are completed.
It so happened that repairs had to be done in the winter, when it reached minus 35 at night.
The house of 1951, from 24 logs, was already being renovated in the eighties and the walls were plastered from the inside. Well, with lime. This kept the log from rotting. But, it was great jarring, the difference between the lower and upper points on one wall is up to 25 centimeters. The walls are crooked. Difference on the ceiling up to 35 centimeters. Instead of insulation, there is construction debris and old foliage on the roof. The floors are rotten, with cracks in the underground. Furnaces, laid out on a brick edge, are in disrepair.

Four months, the four of us repaired. They sorted out and insulated the floors, laying them on new logs, pulled the walls together with new ceiling mats, arranged an internal frame of aged logs in each room, built a bathroom out of nothing, and so on and so forth.


It was



And so it became


It was


So it has become.

And a few more photos with satisfied faces of customers.)


Bedroom

You can determine whether the foundation needs repair by throwing just one look at it. The fact that the days of the foundation of the house are already numbered is indicated by the warping of the building, cracks in the walls and subsidence of the house. It is impossible to insure the building against such deformations, because over time the foundation materials are destroyed. Therefore, one day the hour comes when the owners of a wooden house have to decide what kind of repairs to make - partial or complete.

Conditions for partial and major repairs

In order to find out the degree of damage to the foundation and determine the necessary measures to restore it, you need to carefully study the current state of the foundation and identify characteristic defects that may affect the strength and integrity of the building or its individual elements.

If cracks appear on the foundation, then you need to think about the need to repair it.

The foundation is restored fragmentarily if it has sunk lower, but has not begun to collapse. A full repair is resorted to when cracks and other damage are detected.

The decision on what basis to replace a completely damaged structure is made, taking into account the type of soil, the terrain and the type of foundation originally created.

If the foundation of the house has gone into the ground, it's time to repair it.

With a strip base, they often do the following: the destroyed zones are dismantled and the structure around the entire perimeter is reinforced. In case of serious destruction of the foundation tape, it is decided to completely replace it.

With serious defects in the tape base of the house, it makes sense to think about its complete replacement

The repair of the column base is almost always carried out completely: all the old supports of the building are replaced with new ones. To do this, the house is raised to the height of the pillars with the help of jacks. New reliable supports are fixed on reinforced concrete "pillows".

The columnar foundation is most often completely replaced with a new one.

The foundation of wood, which has already managed to spoil the fungus a little, is usually replaced with a tape or columnar structure. To do this, the building is raised to a certain level and concrete blocks or bricks are placed under it.

Strengthening the foundation of a wooden house

When repairing the foundation, it makes sense to immediately strengthen it. You can do this if you are confident in the stability of the soil, which is below the level of laying the foundation of your house. Strengthening the structure under the building may also be required when it is planned to make another floor in the house, but there is a suspicion that the previously installed base will not withstand the increased load.

There are two ways to strengthen the foundation, depending on the load that it has to withstand.

Instructions for strengthening the tape structure

To make the foundation stronger, perform the following work:

  1. A trench is dug around the perimeter of the base. The pit must be wide, otherwise it will be inconvenient to work. In addition, we must take into account that the new foundation will become more powerful.
  2. The soil is cleared from the excavated foundation. To do this, use a metal brush.

    The trench must be wide enough to be comfortable to work in.

  3. Holes are made in the old base with a drill. It is important that their diameter exceeds the thickness of the purchased reinforcing bars by no more than 1 mm. In this case, the metal elements will be installed securely and without gaps.
  4. Reinforcement bars are inserted into the drilled holes with a hammer. They will help to connect the new foundation with the old one.

    Reinforcing bars are hammered into the drilled holes, to which a vertical grate is attached.

  5. Next metal elements are welded to the clogged rods, forming a reinforced belt. It is better to solder the fittings with the rods already installed in only a few places. For the most part, it makes more sense to tie metal elements with wire to avoid deformation of the reinforcing chord during pouring and hardening of concrete.

    The reinforcing cage will firmly connect the old foundation with the reinforcing concrete structure.

  6. Install the formwork and fill it with concrete. After waiting for the solution to harden, the structure of the boards is dismantled. For several days, the new foundation is not touched, so that it is even more strengthened.

    A formwork is installed around the reinforcing cage and concrete is poured into it. After hardening of the reinforcing layer, the formwork is removed.

  7. The created base is covered with a waterproofing material. An asphalt strip is created around the foundation at an angle.

Due to the reinforcement, the weight of the wooden building is distributed over a larger area. This method allows you to stop subsidence and destruction of the house.

Video: how to strengthen the strip foundation

Replacing the base under a timber building

The way to replace the base depends on its type.

Replacing the strip foundation

Overhaul of the base in the form of a tape is carried out in stages:

  1. In order to reduce pressure on the base, furniture is removed from the house, the floors are dismantled, and the stove is dismantled. Only heating equipment standing on a separate concrete platform is not subjected to dismantling.
  2. The building is slightly raised. If the house is small, then its level in relation to the ground is changed with the help of a kind of lever for lifting weights - a beam measuring 8x8 cm, brought under the corner of the building. A log will serve as a support for him. For heavy construction, it is better to choose thicker lumber. The wooden structure is lifted, putting pressure on the beam.

    The house is raised on jacks and temporary supports are placed under it

  3. Around the house or only in areas where it is required to raise a wooden building, they dig a trench.
  4. A jack is placed under the old foundation. There may be several mechanisms for raising a building. The number of jacks is determined by their carrying capacity and the weight of the house. Mechanisms can only be installed in areas where there is no damage.
  5. With the help of a jack, the house is slowly raised to the desired level. It is important that it rises above the surface of the earth evenly. Since there is a risk of unsuccessful installation of the jack, it is advisable to play it safe - to get wooden wedges between the building and the base cushion.

    The house rises evenly on several jacks. Wooden blocks are placed under the load-bearing beams for insurance.

  6. The lower crown of the raised wooden structure is pulled together with a steel hoop or hammered with strong boards. This technique will protect the overloaded lower bars of the house from damage.
  7. The house to the very surface of the earth is freed from the former foundation. If you are not ready to spend a lot on repairing the base, then you can partially disassemble the structure - remove only the destroyed areas.

    A hammer drill is used to destroy the old foundation.

  8. Under the reconstructed base of the house, a pillow is made of a sand-cement mixture. Supports made of concrete or bricks are placed at the corners of the building. Instead, you can use piles. Thanks to the installation of supports, the size of which must correspond to the height of the base being built, in the future the base will be able to withstand increased pressure.
  9. Construct a reinforcing belt, necessary to strengthen the base. Elements of a metal structure are connected not by welding, but by wire.
  10. Formwork is made from boards. The finished structure is filled with concrete mortar.

    The formwork with a reinforcing frame inside is reinforced with side supports and poured with concrete

  11. After 3 days, the concrete hardens, so the formwork is removed, but further work is not carried out yet, waiting for the foundation to be strengthened.
  12. A few days after the dismantling of the formwork, the new base is covered with a waterproofing sheet, for example, roofing material.

    A few days after the formwork has been removed, the foundation is covered with waterproofing material.

  13. The house is lowered, acting as slowly as during the raising of the building. The front side of the base is covered with waterproofing and facing materials. A blind area is made around the house, which will not allow rainwater to seep into the base.

Video: how to repair a tape concrete base

Repair of supporting pillars

To replace the columnar foundation, proceed as follows:


If it is necessary to replace only a few pillars, they act differently: in the area of ​​\u200b\u200btheir location, digs are made, pipes are immersed and poured with concrete. Old supports are dismantled after the mortar has hardened.

Video: do-it-yourself column foundation replacement

Converting a foundation from rubble or brick into a monolith

Since the brick foundation is characterized by increased fragility, it is more expedient to replace it with a concrete base.

To build a concrete foundation in place of a brick or rubble base, perform the following steps:


Video: brick foundation repair

Do-it-yourself wooden house foundation repair

The wooden foundation is mainly made of pine or larch. A wooden structure always requires a complete replacement, as over time it is completely covered with fungus and rots. The replacement of old elements of such a base with new ones is carried out as follows:


The damaged foundation of a dilapidated wooden house can be put in order. To do this, you need to obtain the necessary knowledge and choose the technology of repair or replacement. Reconstruction of the foundation of the house can be done with your own hands, if there is a desire and at least a little experience in the production of construction work.

Often, it is more profitable to repair an old wooden house on your own than to demolish it and build a new one. If you have such a house and would like to bring it to its proper form, we will tell you how to do it. The main thing is to pay attention to the general condition of the building, that is, to assess the prospects for work. If you are sure that the house can still serve, feel free to start doing repairs with your own hands.

First of all, it is necessary to assess the degree of wear of the existing components of the house. Carefully inspect the foundation, walls, roof and communications. Do-it-yourself repair of an old wooden house begins with the preparation of the material, and its volume directly depends on the state of the building.

Completely free the house from all unnecessary things, garbage and knots that are not actually related to the structure. Carefully inspect the wooden parts for signs of decay - these must be disposed of immediately. Most often, in old wooden houses, the floor comes into complete disrepair - it must be dismantled.

Notice the foundation. As a rule, solid concrete pouring lasts a very long time, but in some places it can break off. This requires a small cosmetic repair - with the help of the prepared solution, simply cover up the visible imperfections, leveling the entire foundation. If the foundation of the house has become unusable (many large cracks around the perimeter, corrosion of the reinforcement, a significant distortion of the horizontal level of the foundation) - repairs are indispensable. This will require a complete refurbishment.

Repair of communications

Communications should be taken care of in advance, as you may want to sheathe the walls with drywall or other coating. So, completely dismantle the existing electrical wiring and plumbing pipes. When laying a new electrical network, be sure to enclose the wires in special tubes with a cross section of 15-20 mm. For plumbing, it is better to use plastic pipes.

Do-it-yourself repair of a wooden house, the photo of the process of which we are attaching, will start from the walls. Crown logs are the most vulnerable spot. This is where cracks and other damage often occur. The floor beams and the floor itself may also suffer (as already noted, it is better to dismantle it immediately).

Minor wood damage can be repaired without dismantling the walls. To do this, clean the problem areas, treat them with an antiseptic, and then seal them with a suitable sealant. If we talk about the outside of the facade, then for cosmetic purposes you can sheathe it with special panels of your choice. Siding is most often used, and it is mounted as follows:

  • Brackets are attached to the facade, on which vertical beams are installed;
  • The beams are installed in increments of approximately 30-40 cm.
  • A layer of mineral wool and an insulating film are fastened between the beams with nails;
  • The crate is sheathed with siding from the bottom up.

The inner side of the walls can be sheathed with drywall. Installation of drywall boards is carried out in a similar way.

Pay attention to the beams above the window and door openings - they very often suffer from moisture. Places that have undergone decay need to be replaced - this can be done simply by sawing a piece of a beam and inserting a new part.

Roof

If the house is quite old, most likely you will need to completely dismantle the roofing. Inspect the frame, in particular pay attention to the condition of the rafters. The roof is easy to repair - any part can be replaced. To do this, use additional strength clamps - for a while connect the existing beams (which you will not dismantle), nailing several boards between them. After that, you can remove low-quality rafters without fear of destroying the frame.

Carefully inspect the main detail of the roof - Mauerlat. If signs of decay are found, be sure to cut out the damaged parts and insert new ones with secure fixation with plate plates or tie bolts. Ideally, the Mauerlat can be completely replaced by carefully dismantling its parts around the perimeter and installing new ones.

After repairing the roof frame, re-lay the roofing. If desired, the roof can be additionally insulated using, for example, mineral wool.

Windows and doors

Doors and windows in old houses will most likely need to be completely replaced. But the main problem is not this, but in fairly frequent cases of skew. To get rid of the skew, dismantle the door frame and level the walls with a level.

Reassemble the door frame frame and install. All existing gaps must be tightly blown with mounting foam. As for the doors, choose their model as you wish, but it is recommended to replace the windows with metal-plastic ones, since they are more durable and reliable than wooden ones, not to mention the thermal insulation properties.

Interior doors also need to be replaced in the same way along with the frames. If you have all the doors of the same format and size, then you can immediately prepare the required number of boards for frame panels. But do not rush to install them inside the house, as you will still be doing floor repairs and decoration. You can install interior doors at the last stage of repair work.

floor laying

For a high-quality floor, it is recommended to make a concrete screed. If you don't have one, get to work. First of all, dismantle the logs on the floor (you can not cut them under the walls) and clean the area from debris and dust. The screed is laid in the following order: backfill (sand, fine gravel), insulating film, concrete layer. Be sure to level the screed. Concrete should dry for about one month at a temperature of about 20 degrees.

Next, you can start laying the floor. It can be, for example, a laminate. For laying, a special substrate is first used, after which sheets of laminate are laid on it, interconnected by “locks”. An expansion gap of about 1 cm should be left near the walls, which is hidden by the plinth.

If you do not want to screed, you can make a floor from the boards. In this case, the boards are simply nailed to the joists and polished from above with a special machine. It is recommended to provide moisture insulation for such a floor by pouring a layer of expanded clay under the logs (if the logs are located on the ground).

Finishing work

The last stage of repairing wooden houses with your own hands, the video of which you can watch at the end of the article, is finishing work. If you used drywall for walls, be sure to sand it down and level it for wallpapering or painting.

The wooden floor from the boards should be treated with a special varnish and allowed to dry well. A similar procedure should be carried out with other wooden materials that are in open areas.

DIY

What are the external signs of uneven subsidence or destruction of the foundation?

Cracks in the foundation itself;
Vertical cracks along the wall;
Skewed doors and windows (typical for wooden houses);
Destruction of the foundation itself (falling out of bricks or part of the foundation);
Assessment of the state of the foundation.

Before repairing the foundation The most difficult repair is the repair of the foundation of a stone (cinder block) house. Usually, such repairs are resorted to in order to prevent further formation of cracks on the walls of the house. Rarely, but it happens that cracks in the walls of the house may not be dangerous. The state of the crack is controlled as follows: a strip of gypsum is applied to the crack or a paper tape is glued. If the plaster strip or tape breaks, (in 90% of cases) this means that the crack is expanding. In this case, it is necessary to take urgent measures to repair the foundation.

If for a long time (which is extremely rare) the strip does not tear, it can be assumed with a certain degree of certainty that the masonry has stabilized. In this case, the crack should be cleaned, moistened and filled with cement-lime mortar.

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The concrete foundation of an old cinder block house can be strengthened with your own hands or with the help of a construction organization.

But in any case, before starting the repair, you yourself must delve into the essence of the issue and try to understand the causes of uneven subsidence or destruction of the foundation.

Uneven settlement of the foundation occurs for various reasons, the main of which are:

heaving of the soil, insufficient depth of laying;
violation of the integrity of the blind area,
destruction of the foundation structure over time,
heterogeneous composition of the soil under the house,
exceeding the permissible load on the soil (with narrow foundations, especially at the corners of the house),
terrain slope,
groundwater level change,
How can you strengthen the foundation yourself?

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Foundation reinforcementStrengthening, repairing foundations for wooden and brick houses have significant differences.
So, if the foundations of a wooden house can be replaced almost completely and even raised above the previous level using jacks, then the foundations of a brick house can only be strengthened.

From the foundation of a cinder-block house?

Repair of the foundation of a stone house is the most responsible and requires special care during the work. The main task at the same time is to prevent further precipitation of an already weakened foundation. In this regard, when repairing the foundation of a stone house (for the purpose of strengthening or rebuilding it), it is not allowed to dig under the base of the foundation. It is possible to strengthen the foundation only by erecting a monolithic enclosing and reinforcing belt - lining from the outside, or better from both sides. See Fig. No. 1. Repair and strengthening of the foundation of a stone house

Sequence of work at ]]> strengthening the foundation of a brick cottage.
When the foundation is destroyed along the entire perimeter along the strip foundations, a trench is torn off with a width of 40–50 cm along the base, at an angle of 35 °. The sole of the foundation is not touched.

The surface of the foundation and plinth is thoroughly cleaned of dirt, old plaster, and the destroyed parts of the foundation and plinth are removed.
The surface of the cleaned foundation is treated with deep penetration soil.
Further, the reinforced part or the entire foundation is anchored with reinforcement through punched or drilled through holes in the foundation with a horizontal step of 60 - 120 cm in 3 - 4 rows in height. When strengthening the rubble foundation, the anchors are driven in between the stones.

Then all the anchors around the perimeter of the house (or that part of the foundation that is being strengthened) are scalded with reinforcement in the horizontal direction. The diameter of the reinforcement is taken from 10 to 14 mm. Concrete is poured into deep cracks and instead of crumbled stone (using local formwork).

Next, a metal mesh is attached over the reinforcement (see photo).
In case of minor destruction of the foundation, it is possible to use a conventional 1: 3 mortar.
In case of significant destruction of the foundation, a formwork is installed at a distance of 5-15 cm from the foundation, and the gap between the foundation and the formwork is poured with concrete. In this case, the grid is applied with a large cell spacing.
After the concrete has hardened, waterproofing is applied and the trench is backfilled with careful layer-by-layer tamping.

Thus, an increase in the bearing capacity of the entire foundation, or sections of the foundation, is achieved. New reinforced concrete "clips" fastened to the foundation with anchors perform several important functions:

]]> in joint “work” with the main foundation, they increase the surface of support on the soil surface, perceive part of the load from the house;
new reinforced concrete "clips" reliably protect the main foundation from the impact of an external aggressive environment and exclude its further destruction;
the old foundation in a double-sided reinforced concrete "clip" receives signs of a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation (the device of a reinforced concrete "clip" works well only on the outside of the foundation with the obligatory installation of anchors);
the foundation after the repair (of course done in good faith) will bear and successfully withstand heavy loads. Which in turn does not exclude the possibility, subject to the repair and strengthening of the walls, the construction of an armored belt - the construction of a light second floor !!!

However, it should be noted that at first the installed clip around the old foundation will naturally shrink. Just like a new foundation. Therefore, it is recommended to repair the walls of the house in a year, when the foundation will take a new stable position.

Repair of an old private house: where to start?

Not so long ago, the economic crisis died down, and not everyone can now afford the expensive construction of a new house. Therefore, the structure of demand for construction services has changed significantly. The purchase of an old house and its subsequent renovation is gaining more and more popularity. Now there are a lot of ads on the Internet like "I will sell an old house, the price is negotiable." The price for such offers is usually low and many people buy such houses. And even if the house looks quite decent, and, according to the owner, it is just a little unkempt, only in very rare cases can repair be avoided.

What are the most common problems home owners face?

Roof problems, roof leaks. This is one of the most common problems in homes. Roof repairs ]]> must be done as quickly as possible, otherwise dampness and cold will reign in the house.

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Foundation problems. The problem is less common, but very dangerous for housing, as it threatens with a complete or partial collapse of housing. Even if no problems were found during the initial inspection of the house, we still recommend strengthening the foundation with a special impregnation. Impregnation for concrete strengthens concrete, which in turn allows it to last longer. If the foundation is wooden, then it is worth remembering that wood is the most durable material and insects can live in it. It is recommended, if possible, to treat the tree with an insect repellent and strengthen the foundation with concrete, make formwork.

Wiring, electricity. In old houses, as a rule, the electrical wiring is simply not designed for the modern abundance of electrical equipment. In this regard, the wire may burn out, which will lead to a short circuit, breakdown of household appliances and even fire. To avoid this, you need to throw a new wiring. New wires are thrown along the wall. To give the wall an aesthetic appearance, the wires are hidden in special boxes. The old wire is not pulled out, left inside. If the house constantly knocks out traffic jams, you need to install a voltage stabilizer. Also, if there is a lot of equipment in the house, it is recommended to install new meters - old models sometimes do not withstand high voltage and fail.

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Warming. Insulation is not mandatory, but by insulating the building, the house will become warmer and more comfortable, and you can save on heating in winter.
After the problems with the basic amenities in the house have been resolved, you can take care of the exterior and interior of the building. The easiest way to sheathe the facades of the house is with siding - it will give the house a modern look and save you from the need to care for the facades. In addition, siding is not affected by wind, precipitation, etc. It's not easy at home. You can sheathe the walls in the room with plastic, but this is not very aesthetically pleasing. The best option, in my opinion, is the usual wallpaper for everyone. Before wallpapering, be sure to plaster and prime the wall. You can put linoleum or parquet on the floor. The ceiling can also be glued with wallpaper, or stretch ceilings can be used.

1. Standard repair of a cottage - price from 2,000 rubles / m2

surface putty;
ceiling painting;
wallpapering (wall painting);
installation of electrical fittings;
installation of a clean floor;
installation of plinths and platbands.

2. High-quality repair of the cottage - price from 6,000 rubles / m2

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Includes the following types of work:
dismantling works;
the construction of partitions;
electrical wiring;
installation of an electrical panel and underfloor heating;
screed device on the floor;
wiring plumbing;
frame arrangement;
installation of drywall sheets;
cobweb device (for painting);
surface putty;
installation of ceramic tiles on the walls;
arrangement of rack ceilings;
installation of ceramic tiles on the floor;
plywood device;
installation of sanitary equipment;

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ceiling painting, wallpapering (wall painting);
installation of electrical fittings;
installation of a clean floor;
installation of interior doors;
installation of skirting boards and platbands;
use of elements of radius walls and floors.

3. Exclusive repair of the cottage - price from 10,000 rubles / m2
Includes the following types of work:
demolition work,
erection of partitions
electrical wiring,
installation of electrical panels and underfloor heating,
floor tie device
plumbing wiring,
frame arrangement,
plasterboard installation,
cobweb device (for painting),
surface putty,
installation of ceramic tiles on the walls,
rack ceiling installation,
installation of ceramic tiles on the floor,
plywood device,
installation of plumbing equipment,
ceiling painting,
wallpapering (wall painting),
installation of electrical fittings,
clean floor installation
installation of interior doors,

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installation of skirting boards and platbands,
mosaic decoration,
decorative stone trim,
creation of artistic parquet,
use of smart home elements,
covering walls and ceilings with decorative plaster,
use of elements of radius walls and floors,
artistic painting of the walls.

So, you have acquired a plot of land in some quiet picturesque village, of which there are many in the Central Russian zone, starting from the regions adjacent to the capital. And on this site, with a high degree of probability, there will be an old log hut, built, possibly, even before the revolution. It is not at all necessary to immediately demolish it in order to put a modern country house in its place, especially if you are limited in finances. It is quite possible that the good old house can still serve you for more than one year.

First, let's pay attention to the log house. As a rule, it is made of thick, durable logs that fit snugly together. This is a reliable, proven for centuries, construction, even if it was delivered without a foundation, from which the house could squint a little. No problem! We will raise the house on jacks and lay the foundation or put one or two log crowns on the side where the house has tilted and grown into the ground. A stone base, of course, is preferable to a brick one, but its installation is more troublesome.

The log house is the basis of a classic four-walled hut, to which all the other premises of the house, as a rule, for household purposes, are already attached, as well as a summer rest room and a large corridor separating the warm part of the house and the cold one.

Consider this main living space, which must be warm. This means that there is a heating agent there. In old huts, this is usually a Russian stove. It takes up quite a lot of space - a whole corner of the house. Previously, the Russian stove played a huge role in the life of a peasant family: they heated the room with it, dried their clothes on it and warmed themselves from above on a special bench, as well as cooked food for themselves and steamed animal feed.

But back in Soviet times, electrification came even to remote villages. Therefore, we most likely will cook food not in the oven, but on an electric stove. Even if there is no gas in the house, and the electricity is cut off from time to time, it is still more expedient to stock up on a gas cylinder and a small gas stove than to melt the stove, which can create considerable difficulties, especially in the summer.

It is generally better to dismantle this stove completely and come up with another option for space heating. There are many reasons for such a decision. First, the Russian stove is most likely the same age as the house. But, unlike the log house, it has already worked out its resource. These stoves are usually not only and not so much brick as adobe. That is, the stove, having become damp for several years of inactivity, while the house was waiting for a new owner, may well begin to crumble and collapse right before our eyes at the first kindling. Or it may happen that at first the furnace will withstand new operation, but the process of destruction will begin from within, as if gradually, that in the end it will still lead to its destruction. And this will happen, with a high degree of probability, in the very first year of your settlement. In addition, in an already small room, the Russian stove takes up too much space, which can and should be freed up.

]]> ]]> Practice shows that the elimination of the stove does not require large material costs and many labors. The average head of the family, who knows how to hold a sledgehammer in his hands and is not afraid of physical exertion comparable in severity to, say, chopping firewood, can easily cope with this task.

That is, roughly speaking, you can take out the stove in parts, breaking off pieces from it. The brick pipe will also need to be removed, replacing it with a metal one. And to heat the room, you can buy, at least for the first time, an extremely compact stove a la “potbelly stove” or build a small stove with a narrow vent out of bricks. And if you do not plan to spend the winter in the house, then in other seasons an ordinary electric heater will be quite enough, since the four-walled rooms are usually small in size, and the log house itself is well insulated and keeps heat for a long time.

How much will it cost to renovate an old village house

You are probably the envy of your friends and acquaintances: after all, you have ]]> your own small house in the countryside, where you can retire and enjoy all the delights of a calm and measured holiday in the Russian outback. And if your house is located on the shore of a reservoir, surrounded by a lush growing grove, and a flowering garden spreads in the yard, then you are generally lucky. You do not need to set aside funds for a ticket to a rest home or sanatorium. It is enough to travel a hundred kilometers, and you are already far from the gassed city, the hustle and bustle of its streets and roads. You are greeted by the freshness of grass with trembling dew drops, a clear starry sky and such a native creak of the floorboards of an old village house. You rest here both in body and soul.

But after a few days, you begin to notice that your seemingly so reliable shelter is slowly falling into decay. And if in the near future you do not make repairs to the old village house, then next year you are unlikely to be able to comfortably spend your vacation here.
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What do you need to know in order to take action and how much will it cost to repair a garden house? It is hardly possible to answer this question unambiguously. After all, it all depends on what exactly needs to be updated in the house, what scale of work you plan to carry out, what type of repair you can afford and what are your future plans regarding the fate of your house.

If you are going to turn it into a modern cottage with amenities, then such a metamorphosis, including the restructuring and renovation of an old village house, will result in a very substantial amount. After all, you will have to practically rebuild it in a new way. In the event that you plan to only slightly update your suburban housing and put in order only structures that have become completely unusable, then such repairs of a garden house can be done for very modest money. At the same time, you can save on wages for workers if you do everything yourself.

]]> ]]> It is very important that you take care not only of the internal, but also of the external state of your house in the village. Especially if it is built not from bricks or concrete blocks, but from wood, which has the properties of aging and deteriorating. The most dangerous for garden houses are temperature fluctuations and adverse weather conditions. That is why it is recommended not to save on facade work. A relatively inexpensive, but quite aesthetic option is the outer skin of the house with a profiled clapboard with a tongue-and-groove connection. A house protected in this way will faithfully serve you and your children for decades.

Renovation of an old house. How to make a "candy" from an old house.

You are a young family. Having lived with the parents of the husband (wife) for about five years, you decide that it is time to separate and live independently. You are lucky - you have purchased your own home. Some kind, but your own. Let it (the house) have long been of retirement age, with crooked walls, low ceilings and small uncomfortable rooms. At first glance, shock! But do not be afraid, any problems can be solved if there is a desire and a little patience.
So. Let's start with interior decoration.

PROBLEM FIRST. WALLS.
Curved walls look terrible. And this fact cannot be ignored.

TIP 1: Level the walls with drywall. How it's done. You buy metal guides, self-tapping screws and all other bells and whistles at the nearest building supplies store, including drywall itself (ask the seller, he will tell you). Yes, do not forget the screwdriver and the building level. And one more thing: if you have dampness on the walls at home, drywall is better to take moisture resistant. Further on the technology: after screwing the drywall, rub the seams with gypsum putty, specially released for this purpose. Glue paper tape on top of it (this is done so that the first layer of gypsum does not fall out). And then plaster the walls completely. Next - room for imagination: paint with water-based paint (moisture resistant) with the addition of color or stupidly glue the wallpaper. Believe me, the effect is amazing. The mood changes with the interior!

We will talk about the choice of the color of the walls when painting, I will only say that if you choose a light tone of the walls, the unevenness of your plaster will not be as noticeable as with an alternative dark color.

TIP 2. Or "When there is no money at all."
This is also an option. Do not despair. Buy wallpaper with a relief pattern and glue them. But, there is one BUT. In no case do not glue wallpaper with silk-screen printing on uneven walls, they will aggravate the situation.
You can also "close" the flaws, where possible, with furniture, carpets, various wall hangings.
If the walls are whitened with lime, freshen them up by adding some blue or light blue to the whitewash solution. Remember: the light color of the walls in this case is the best option!

PROBLEM TWO. CEILING.

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If the ceiling is curved, at an angle, with overhanging beams, drywall is one of the inexpensive options. Do the same as in the case of curved walls. Of course, if the height of the room allows. Just lower the ceiling by 5-10 centimeters and that's it, the problem is solved. BUT, when the ceilings are low, you have to break your head. Of course, if YOU are counting on long-term residence in this house, you cannot do without a major overhaul. Just remove the roof and "catch up" with the height of the walls to the desired centimeters (report logs, beams, bricks, in general, complete the construction).

When you don’t have such an opportunity or desire, I can offer to simply glue the ceiling with tiles (ceiling). It is inexpensive and very versatile. For low ceilings, choose tiles with an unpretentious small pattern. By the way, the same applies to the choice of wallpaper. Choose wallpaper with low ceilings with vertical lines, in no case take wallpaper with a large pattern, horizontal lines - they will visually make your room even lower.
The beams are also very well glued with tiles.
Glue the joints of the tiles with the walls with a special strip-border. You can buy it with wallpaper. It costs almost a penny. Various moldings, skirting boards, should not be used. This is for flat walls and ceilings.

ADVICE. To visually make your ceiling seem high, paint part of the ceiling to match the walls along the perimeter of the room by 30 centimeters.
How to do it. On the ceiling, measure an even square (measure from the center of the ceiling), outline it, leaving about 30 centimeters to the walls. I speak conditionally, since the distance will differ if the junction of the ceiling and walls is uneven. And paint over these remaining 30 centimeters to match the walls or cover them with wallpaper, as if turning them from the walls to the ceiling. Paste the "square" with molding. If there is a tile on the ceiling, you can paint it with water-based paint with the addition of color.

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PROBLEM THREE. FLOOR.
When the floor is uneven, it is leveled from below, the height of the floor beams is adjusted.
If the floor is cold. We sheathe it with fiberboard or chipboard. Also, linoleum, flooring will add heat to you. In general, we will proceed from financial possibilities.

PROBLEM FOUR. LIGHTING.
Often meets. Note: with good lighting and the room is cozier. If you have little natural light in your home, small windows, or windows that never see the sunlight, follow my advice.

TIP 1. Light tone of the walls and ceiling. I don't say white. Shades can be any, but light. At the same time, without going deep into the scientific jungle that substantiates my advice, I will say that it is better to choose light pastel colors for the bedroom: blue, pink; for the kitchen - yellow, orange; for the hall, living room-green.

TIP 2. Windows should be opened as much as possible. This means we hang a transparent tulle, freed from the pattern.

TIP 3. And of course, we add soft artificial lighting in the form of spotlights (you can use any, with low ceilings, preferably wall-mounted).

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PROBLEM FIVE. FACADE.
Siding is the best solution. At the same time, we sheathe only a flat, “straight” house with horizontal siding. Take my word for it, your structure will look ridiculous otherwise. In the case when the facade of the house is far from perfect, we are looking for siding without horizontal and vertical lines, such as a "puzzle". Looks great and lots of options.

The fence can be made of corrugated board, it will work especially well if its color is combined with the color of the roof covering.
Of course, all the problems that you may encounter cannot be listed in one article, but I hope you will cope with them on your own. The advice of relatives, friends, acquaintances, information that you will draw from various books and manuals will also come in handy here. Most importantly, remember: "My home is my castle." Good luck in strengthening your fortress. Make your old house a "candy"!

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