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Boiler for mining from a gas cylinder. Compact models of waste oil furnaces

It is always nice to use junk materials with benefit. And if it concerns fuel and heating, it is also very profitable. A striking example is heating furnaces in used oil. They can use any oil that can burn.

Transmission, diesel, machine, confectionery, vegetable ... Really any. There are no problems with fuel for such units. What they found, they poured. Moreover, the furnace for working out with their own hands is also made from waste materials: an old gas or oxygen cylinder, pipe sections of different diameters or pieces of metal.

2. The principle of operation of homemade stoves

If any used oil is simply set on fire, the smoke will be merciless and “smell” even more actively. Therefore, direct combustion is not used. First, volatile substances evaporate, then they are burned. This is the basic principle of design development. Therefore, in some embodiments, the furnace has two combustion chambers connected by a tube in which holes are made.

In the lower chamber, the fuel is heated and evaporated. Combustible vapors rise up. Passing through a pipe with holes, they mix with oxygen dissolved in the air. Already in the upper part of this pipe, the mixture ignites, and burns out in the second chamber. Moreover, the combustion of vapors occurs with the release of much more heat and less smoke. At right technology there is practically no smoke, as well as soot.

The second method of separating "heavy" fuel (oil of any origin) into "flammable" components is more efficient, but also more difficult to implement. For efficient evaporation, a metal bowl is installed in the lower chamber. It heats up, the droplets of mining that fall on it instantly turn into volatile combustible vapors. In this case, the glow is obtained (in the correct mode) blue-white, as in the case of plasma combustion. From here came another name for this design - with a plasma bowl.

To achieve the greatest efficiency of fuel combustion, used oil must be fed into the lower chamber in very small portions. In some cases - drops, sometimes - a thin stream. That is why this technology is called drip feed.

These are the basic principles of the "operation" of home-made heating units. There are a very large number of their combinations and variations. A few of them are described below.

You can see an example of combustion in a plasma bowl in the video below. This is a Gecko mining furnace, it has a built-in water heater and can work as a heating boiler.

5. Advantages and disadvantages

The main and main plus is that used fuel and oils are used, which otherwise would have to be disposed of. If the technology is followed, the combustion is so complete that practically no harmful emissions into the atmosphere occur. Other advantages are no less significant:

Simple construction;
high efficiency;
low cost of equipment and fuel;
works on any oils, organic, synthetic, vegetable origin;
the content of up to 10% of pollutants is allowed.
There are also serious drawbacks. And the main one is that if the technology is not followed, the combustion of fuel occurs incompletely. And its vapors get into the room, and this is very dangerous. Therefore, the main and main requirement: furnaces operating on waste oil are installed exclusively in rooms with a ventilation system.

There are more cons:

To ensure good draft, the chimney must be straight and high - at least 5 meters;
requires regular cleaning of the bowl and chimney- daily;
problematic ignition: you must first heat the bowl, then supply fuel;
hot water options are possible, but their independent design is a difficult task - you can’t greatly lower the temperature in the combustion zone, otherwise the whole process will fall apart (as an option, install a water jacket on the chimney, it definitely won’t interfere with the decay of the fuel).
Due to such features, such units are rarely used for heating residential buildings. If they are installed, then in separate rooms and in a modified form.

6. Application area

In the basic version, a homemade waste oil stove heats the air. They are also called heat guns, heat generators or heaters. It is rarely used for heating residential premises in this form: the air dries out, oxygen from hot metal walls is burned out. But to maintain normal temperature in industrial or technical premises, such units are very effective: they quickly raise the temperature. They can be seen at service stations, car washes, garages, production shops where there are no combustible materials, in warehouses, in greenhouses, etc.

Many options can be improved: they can install a coil for heating water or make a water jacket. Such equipment already belongs to the category of water heating and can be installed in a water heating system. Without automation, a mining furnace with a water circuit requires constant monitoring, but for summer cottages, farm buildings with livestock, etc. this is a great option.

7. How to make a waste oil stove

Today there are already more than a dozen different designs. They use different techniques extraction of thermal energy, have a different structure.

8. Furnaces for burning mining from a pipe

It is easier to make an oven if the body is already ready. As such, you can use gas or oxygen balloon, thick-walled barrel or pipe. The diagram below explains how to make a waste oil stove from a pipe.

The operation of this unit is based on evaporation in a plasma bowl. It can produce up to 15 kW of heat (on average, it can heat 150 square meters). Greater heat transfer due to any changes (the size of the furnace or an increase in the air supply) is impossible: the thermal regime will be disturbed and instead of more heat, more fumes will be obtained, and this is unsafe.

The build order is:

1.) We make the case.
a.) We take a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 210 mm, a wall thickness of 10 mm. Height 780 mm.
b.) We cut out a bottom with a diameter of 219 mm from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm and weld it on one side. This is the bottom.
c.) Legs are welded to the bottom (they can be made from bolts).
d.) A viewing window is made at a distance of 70 mm from the bottom. Through it, it will be possible to monitor combustion and heat the bowl at the “start”. Dimensions, respectively, make it convenient for you. The door itself is made from a cut piece of pipe, having welded a thin collar. But everything should be closed tightly, because an asbestos cord is laid around the perimeter of the door. You can use furnace casting, then the dimensions of the hole are cut out for it. You can fasten it with bolts directly to the body (an asbestos cord is required here too).
e.) On the opposite side of the body, stepping back from the top 7-10 cm, a pipe is welded to remove flue gases. Its diameter is 108 mm, wall thickness is 4 mm.

2,) We make a cover.
a.) A circle with a diameter of 228 mm is cut out of metal 5 mm thick.
b.) A collar is welded along the edge from a strip of metal 40 mm wide, the thickness of the metal is 3 mm.
d) A hole with a diameter of 89 mm is cut in the center of the cover, the second with a diameter of 18 mm is cut out from the side. The smaller hole serves as another viewing window, a cover is made on it, which is also used as a safety valve.

3.) We make a pipe for supplying air and fuel.
a.) We take a piece of pipe with a diameter of 89 mm, with a wall thickness of 3 mm, and a length of 760 mm.
b.) Stepping back from the edge of 50 mm around the circumference, drill 9 holes of 5 mm in diameter.
c.) Two more rows of holes with a diameter of 4.2 mm are made 50 mm above these holes, 8 pcs in each row.
d.) Having risen even higher by 50 mm, make the fourth row of holes 3 mm in diameter. There should be 9 of them.
e.) On the same side, along the edge of the grinder, cuts are cut with a thickness of 1.6 mm and a height of 30 mm. Around the circumference of the pipe, they need to be made 9 pcs.
e.) From the other end of the pipe, stepping back 5-7 mm, cut a hole with a diameter of 10 mm.
g.) Insert the fuel supply pipe into the cut hole. Its diameter is 10 mm, wall thickness is 1 mm. It ends at the same level with the air supply pipe. The length and angle of the bend depend on where the fuel container will be located.

4.) The finished air and fuel supply pipe is welded to the cover. It is set so that it does not reach the bottom of the case by 120 mm.

5.) We make a bowl for fuel
a.) Now a piece of 30 mm is cut off from a pipe with a diameter of 133 mm, with a wall thickness of 4 mm.
b.) We cut out a circle with a diameter of 219 mm from sheet steel 2 mm thick.
c.) Weld to a piece of pipe. It turned out a bowl where fuel is supplied.

6.) Assembly.
a.) A bowl is installed inside the body at a distance of 70 mm from the bottom. It can be observed (and kindled) from the lower inspection hatch.
b.) Install the cover with the fuel / air supply device.
c.) A chimney is installed on the chimney. Pipe with a diameter of 114 mm, a wall of 4 mm. Its height is at least 4 meters. The part that remains indoors may not be insulated; it is better to insulate it outside. Chimney - only vertically upwards, inclined sections are excluded.

After installing the oil tank, you can start testing. First, a little paper is placed in the bowl, a flammable liquid is poured, everything is set on fire. After the paper has almost burned through, the oil supply opens.

This drawing of a waste oil furnace is not in vain given with such an accurate indication of the materials. These are the parts you need to use. As a result of work homemade stove, with a consumption of 1-1.5 liters of fuel per hour, you can heat the room up to 150 "squares".

10. Drawing of a furnace from a pipe or cylinder in video format

A furnace using waste oil from a cylinder (oxygen or gas) is presented by the author in the video. The design is similar to the one described above, but with original modifications (and it is a little simpler)

11. Do-it-yourself mini oven for working out

This home-made stove, with a small size and weight (10 kg), fuel consumption of about 0.5 lira per hour, produces 5-6 kW of heat. It is possible to melt it more strongly, but it is not necessary: it can explode. The design is loved by motorists: the garage is even in extreme cold heats up quickly, consumes oil sparingly, and even compact. Therefore, it can be called "garage".

The fuel tank of this small air gun is assembled from the bottom and top of a standard 50 liter gas bottle. It turns out very robust design(keep at least one circular seam from the cylinder - there is an o-ring that will give greater strength. You can make a tank from any other container of similar dimensions: 200-400 mm in diameter and about 350 mm high.

In addition to the fuel tank, you need to make a pipe in which the fuel-air mixture is mixed. The wall thickness here is at least 4 mm. You can use a pipe suitable diameter. The cones are made from structural steel no thinner than 4 mm.

The dimensions of the waste oil furnace indicated on the drawing can be adjusted up or down, but only by 20 mm - no more. Especially carefully it is necessary to boil the seams in the places of funnels: here the fuel-air mixture lingers for a long time, which is why the temperature is considerable.

The length of the chimney pipe is no more than 3.5 meters. Otherwise, due to too good traction, the fuel will be pulled into the pipe, which will significantly increase consumption and reduce heat transfer.

The figure on the right shows a hot-water version of a homemade stove. Around the upper part of the afterburning zone, several turns of a steel tube are made through which water is passed. In order for the temperature of the gases not to drop much, the coil is closed with a heat-reflecting steel casing. Cold water is fed from below, passing in a spiral, heats up and goes into the system.

12. Miracle oven in development

This option is very popular with summer residents and in garages. A convenient small stove, which is made with round or square burning zones. The design is so successful that there are even industrial options. For example, one of the enterprises sells it under the name "Ritsa". The diagram shows all the required dimensions.

13. A video report on how to assemble this oven will help you navigate the order of work.

Waste oil furnaces are made not only by the artisanal method, they are also produced by the industry. And there are both imported and Russian ones. But the type of construction they have is different.

European or American mining boilers belong to the category of liquid fuel furnaces. They use the principle of pressurization: oil is sprayed into small droplets, combined with an air stream. And the fuel-air mixture is already ignited. Imported factory stoves use the same principle, only a special burner is installed in which the fuel is heated before spraying.

To appreciate the difference in technology and structure, watch the following video. The device is completely different.

In Russian-made furnaces, most use the first principle - there is a hot (plasma) bowl in which liquid fuel turns into gaseous, mixes with air and burns. According to this principle, the following units are built:

Gecko. Produced in Vladivostok. They make units with a capacity of 15, 30, 50 and 100 kW / h. This - hot water boilers, which are built into the water heating system. Prices from 70,000 rubles for a 15 kW boiler.
Typhoon. They are produced by Belamos. These are heat generators: they heat the air. There are two options - Typhoon TM 15 and TGM 300, they give out 20-30 kW / h (price: 45,000 rubles and 65,000 rubles, respectively).
Herringbone-Turbo, there is 15 kW, there is 30 kW. These units heat the air, but it is possible to make a water jacket.
Furnaces "Teplamos" with power from 5 kW/hour to 50 kW/hour. They belong to the category of heat guns (heat the air). The work begins with the electrical heating of the plasma bowl, when the required temperature is reached, the fuel supply begins and the forced air supply to the combustion zone is turned on. The price of these installations is from 30,000 rubles per unit with a capacity of 5-15 kW.

17. Drawings and diagrams

There are many models of furnaces that use waste oil. And below are a few schemes that can give you an idea, and a do-it-yourself oven for working out will be efficient, economical and safe.

20. At the most in the garage there is a fat sooo not even anything.

Today's article is devoted to how to make a furnace from a gas cylinder for working out with your own hands. We will look at exactly how to heat a room using used oil and an old cylinder - there will be a corresponding video and drawings. This method has its own characteristics that everyone must know, but we will talk about this later.

Advantages and disadvantages of "working out"

This method is often used in non-residential premises like garages, workshops, warehouses, etc. Everything works quite simply - first, the mining heats up, after which oil vapors form, which also burn, and much more intense than the liquid fuel itself. As a result, we have a fairly efficient gas cylinder furnace for mining, which is able to heat a small room for a very small amount.

This method of heating a room is very popular in auto repair shops - there is always free oil at hand, which is drained from old cars. In this case, heat is generally obtained free of charge, plus everything, there is no need to look for how to dispose of old oil. The only point is before use it needs to be cleaned so that there there were no impurities.

After reading the list below, you can finally decide whether it is worth it, since there is many nuances associated with both the unit and the type of fuel used in it.

Pros:

The cost of a mining furnace is minimal. If there is no desire to buy, you can make it or sheet metal. There are plenty of drawings and videos on the Internet, even a person with minimal skills will be able to repeat the whole process.

Read also: We make a potbelly stove at work

In second place, of course, the price of the fuel itself- if you buy it "ready to use", the price per liter will be no more than 15 rubles. It often sells for 8 to 12 rubles(depending on seasonality and region).

The design and the fuel itself are safe. The cylinder stove gives enough heat, while no bad smell or burning / soot. This is due to the fact that the oil emits vapors when heated, and already when burned, they provide a "supply" of heat to the room.

Minuses:

Do not use used oil that has not been purified in the oven. In this case, the nozzles will quickly become clogged and the balloon may explode in addition, the effectiveness of such an oil is questionable.

Fuel must be stored under certain conditions. At low temperatures, the oil freezes and becomes useless. Imagine you came to the garage, you want to quickly heat it up, and the stove turns out to be completely useless, as the oil has turned into ice.

We make a stove from a gas cylinder with our own hands: drawings and detailed instructions

You can make such a furnace from an oxygen or carbon cylinder. The main advantage is that the walls of the original material are thick (sometimes up to one and a half centimeters). And this means that the equipment will be able to work for a very long time. Even the simplest option from a small cylinder will heat the room without any problems. 70-80 squares.

There is another plus - processing comes by itself. In addition, you do not need to be smart with the creation of an air supply system - this is simply not necessary in this type of furnace.

In order to make a finished oven with our own hands, we need detailed drawings, as well as following tools/materials: a grinder, a file, a drill, a tape measure, a capacity of ~ 10 liters (for fuel), as well as pipes with a thickness of at least 2 mm. and iron corners.

Read also: Furnace for working out for a bath

The thickness of the balloon is important due to the fact that the walls will heat up up to 600 degrees Celsius or more. Thin walls can “crumble” from such an impact. The container itself must be thoroughly rinsed with water to get rid of all foreign liquids and odors.

First you need to fix the balloon. But don't do it yourself. It is best to dig it 10-15 centimeters into the ground, and only then start working as a grinder. We cut off the upper part (then we will need to make a hole in it), but in no case do we throw it away - it will be used as a “lid”.

We do the same with bottom- cut it off. It will serve as a "camera". We weld iron corners to the lower part, which will serve as legs for the future furnace.

A pipe must be connected to the hole made in the upper part of the cylinder to remove the smoke. Its diameter should be about 10 centimeters, and its length should be at least 4 meters. It is enough to weld the pipe (this can be done after the installation of the furnace itself).

Next, you need to work with this pipe. It is necessary to make 10 holes in it at a small distance from each other. The hole size is about 3 mm. One of the holes should be 5-7 centimeters- we weld a pipe to it with a length of 2 m or more, which is located parallel to the floor (in fact, it departs “sideways” from the vertical one and serves as a chimney).

We will need another hole of a similar diameter on the same pipe in order to regulate the intensity of the air supply. It needs to be covered with a plate.

As you can see, it’s not so difficult to create a finished oven from a cylinder with your own hands, but text instructions are not always enough, so we advise you to carefully study the diagrams and videos before you start acting.

Save significant cash can be on the use of waste materials for heating. Therefore, the do-it-yourself stove is very popular. Drawings, videos and diagrams will help create a quality design. For heating, you can use any oil with combustible properties. In this case, the heating unit can also be made from improvised materials. In this case, cut pipes, sheet steel and even used gas cylinders come into play.

Read in the article

Do-it-yourself stove for working out: drawings, videos and design features

To create a structure with your own hands, you will need a profiled pipe with a cross section square shape. The surface can be used as a hob.

You can make such a furnace from a gas cylinder. In this case, the water circuit is made like a boiler, through which a chimney is pulled. You can connect the circuit using a copper tube that wraps around the main tank. This method serves as protection against boiling water.

sheet material construction

If you have some skills, you can make a stove for working out with your own hands. Be sure to study the drawings and videos experienced craftsmen. The unit consists of a fuel tank, which has an outlet to the combustion chamber, and an afterburner compartment with a perforated pipe and a compartment on top. Below are windows for fuel supply.

A special foundation for such a device is not required, but the surface must be flat and horizontal. For the convenience of fuel supply, a funnel is used. If the floor is made of wood, then a sheet of metal is laid before installing the stove.

When installing the device, certain requirements must be observed:

metal thickness for containers - 4mm; top cover and bottom - 6 mm;
the internal section of the chimney system is at least 10 cm;
the fuel compartment must have a capacity of 9 to 16 liters;
the pipe can be made of tin, copper or stainless steel;
the length of the burner must be greater than the size of its cross section;
sections of the chimney passing through the room may be in an inclined position, but the pipe outside is only vertical;

To assemble a structure, except sheet material, you will need drawings, pipes, a hammer, a tape measure with a level, corners, a grinder and a welding unit.

The construction goes like this:

elements are connected by welding. In this case, the seams are checked for the quality of soldering;
sheet steel is marked and cut into parts; on the bending device, the necessary parts are bent;
the lid of the lower container and the rest of it must fit well. The fuel supply hole must have a diameter of 5 cm;
assembly of the upper container. In this case, the bottom and walls are welded to each other;
in the upper tank, a baffle plate is welded and an exhaust pipe is attached to which a chimney is mounted;
nine-millimeter holes are drilled on the pipe from which the burner will be made, there should be 48 of them;
a sealing ring is installed;
a tank is attached into which oil will be poured;
legs are cut out of the corner and attached to the bottom in the oven. Useful information! Some elements can be cut from a thick-walled pipe or gas cylinder. If there is nothing to bend the metal, then you can make a square-shaped structure.
Article

It is always nice to use junk materials with benefit. And when it comes to fuel and heating, it is also very profitable. Waste oil heating stoves are a prime example. They can use any oil that can burn. Transmission, diesel, machine, confectionery, vegetable ... Really any. There are no problems with fuel for such units. What they found, they poured. Moreover, a do-it-yourself furnace is also made from waste materials: an old gas or oxygen cylinder, pipe sections of different diameters or pieces of metal.

The principle of operation of homemade stoves

In the lower chamber, the fuel is heated and evaporated. Combustible vapors rise up. Passing through a pipe with holes, they mix with oxygen dissolved in the air. Already in the upper part of this pipe, the mixture ignites, and burns out in the second chamber. Moreover, the combustion of vapors occurs with the release of much more heat and less smoke. With the right technology, there is practically no smoke, as well as soot.

These are the basic principles of the "operation" of home-made heating units. There are a very large number of their combinations and variations. A few of them are described below.

You can see an example of combustion in a plasma bowl in the video below. This is a Gecko mining furnace, it has a built-in water heater and can work as a heating boiler.

Advantages and disadvantages

simple design;
high efficiency;
low cost of equipment and fuel;
works on any oils, organic, synthetic, vegetable origin;
the content of up to 10% of pollutants is allowed.

There are also serious drawbacks. And the main one is that if the technology is not followed, the combustion of fuel occurs incompletely. And its vapors get into the room, and this is very dangerous. Therefore, the main and main requirement: furnaces operating on waste oil are installed exclusively in rooms with a ventilation system.

There are more cons:

to ensure good draft, the chimney must be straight and high - at least 5 meters;
regular cleaning of the bowl and chimney is required - daily;
problematic ignition: you must first heat the bowl, then supply fuel;
water-heating options are possible, but their independent design is a difficult task - you cannot greatly lower the temperature in the combustion zone, otherwise the whole process will fall apart (as an option - install a water jacket on the chimney, here it certainly will not interfere with the decay of the fuel).

Due to such features, such units are rarely used for heating residential buildings. If they are installed, then in separate rooms and in a modified form.

Application area

In the basic version, a homemade waste oil stove heats the air. They are also called heat guns, heat generators or heaters. It is rarely used for heating residential premises in this form: the air dries out, oxygen from hot metal walls is burned out. But to maintain a normal temperature in industrial or technical premises, such units are very effective: they quickly raise the temperature. They can be seen at service stations, car washes, garages, production shops where there are no combustible materials, warehouses, greenhouses, etc.

Do-it-yourself furnaces for working out - the best option for a garage

How to make a waste oil stove

Today there are already more than a dozen different designs. They use different methods of extracting thermal energy, have a different structure.

Furnaces for burning mining from a pipe

It is easier to make an oven if the body is already ready. As such, you can use a gas or oxygen cylinder, a thick-walled barrel or pipe. The diagram below explains how to make a waste oil stove from a pipe.

The build order is:

This drawing of a waste oil furnace is not in vain given with such an accurate indication of the materials. These are the parts you need to use. As a result of the operation of a home-made stove, with a consumption of 1-1.5 liters of fuel per hour, you can heat a room up to 150 "squares".

Drawing of a furnace from a pipe or cylinder in video format

Do-it-yourself mini oven for working out

This home-made stove, with a small size and weight (10 kg), fuel consumption of about 0.5 lira per hour, produces 5-6 kW of heat. It is possible to melt it more strongly, but it is not necessary: it can explode. The design is loved by motorists: the garage heats up quickly even in extreme cold, it consumes oil economically, and it is also compact. Therefore, it can be called "garage".

The fuel tank of this small air gun is assembled from the bottom and top of a standard 50 liter gas bottle. It turns out a very reliable design (keep at least one circular seam from the cylinder - there is an o-ring that will give greater strength. You can make a tank from any other container of similar dimensions: 200-400 mm in diameter and about 350 mm high.

In addition to the fuel tank, you need to make a pipe in which the fuel-air mixture is mixed. The wall thickness here is at least 4 mm. You can use a pipe of a suitable diameter. The cones are made from structural steel no thinner than 4 mm.

The figure on the right shows a hot-water version of a homemade stove. Around the upper part of the afterburning zone, several turns of a steel tube are made through which water is passed. In order for the temperature of the gases not to drop much, the coil is closed with a heat-reflecting steel casing. Cold water is supplied from below, passing in a spiral, heats up and goes into the system.

Miracle oven in development

Waste oil furnace diagram with dimensions - all you need to make it yourself

A video report on how to assemble this oven will help you navigate the order of work.

The video below shows the square containers, its dressing and dimensions.

Factory Options

To appreciate the difference in technology and structure, watch the following video. The device is completely different.

In most Russian-made furnaces, the first principle is used - there is a hot (plasma) bowl in which liquid fuel turns into gaseous, mixes with air and burns. According to this principle, the following units are built:

Drawings and diagrams

There are many models of furnaces that use waste oil. And below are a few schemes that can give you an idea, and a do-it-yourself oven for working out will be efficient, economical and safe.

Oxygen bottle oven

Scheme of the Gecko oven

Waste oil stove "Typhoon"

A waste furnace (used motor oil) is a hotly debated topic, but not a new one. Do-it-yourself free heating in the Russian Federation and the CIS has a rather long history. Now we are witnessing its second birth.

How was she born?

Nikita Sergeevich Khrushchev, like the entire USSR, is very ambiguous, and not only in the geopolitical sense. Under him, it became possible for ordinary citizens to acquire personal motor vehicles, garage cooperatives were created, summer cottages. Intensively mechanized Agriculture. And then, in the 60s, the first shoots of ecological thinking broke through.

Garages and country houses needed to be heated. Fuel (in the present - energy) cost a penny - literally, a liter of 66th gasoline 2 kopecks, and 76th 7 kopecks. - but even a penny had to be saved, salaries were small. And for draining mining, they were fined, and a lot, up to a third of the salary at a time. And it was expensive to transport coal to the dacha, and bottled gas was generally exotic. For unauthorized chopping of forests for firewood, it was possible to end up in prison quite in the Soviet way - without unnecessary talk and lengthy proceedings. As a result, a waste oil furnace appeared.

The folk craftsmen did not have to rack their brains for a long time over the principle of action - the most common at the dachas and in private houses was then kerogas. The evaporated kerosene in it was burnt out in a special chamber, unlike a stove or a blowtorch, where already very heated fuel vapors are burning. Therefore, kerogas was relatively safe to operate, and a violation of the combustion regime signaled itself with stink and soot long before it developed into an accident. The mining furnace works on the same principle, it was only necessary to figure out how to burn heavily polluted viscous fuel to the end using simple home methods.

Kerogas "Leningrad" with an external chamber

The second progenitors of the oil stove were gas generators, which were widely used during the war, when high-quality fuel went to the front. They were well known to adults of the 60s, so the general scheme of the stove's operation loomed clear:

The primary small energy reserve of chemically lazy fuel should be used for its own decomposition to fractions easier and more active, as in a gas generator.
What happens is to burn in 2 or 3 stages, as in kerogas.

Eco-signs of our days

Today's mining furnaces do not repeat the designs of those days, except for which will be discussed separately. And there are good reasons for that.

In the 60s, combustion to carbon dioxide and water vapor was considered absolutely clean and safe. Nowadays, both, alas, are greenhouse gases, the effect of which is already quite noticeable on own skin literally. It is impossible to burn even deeper, but the efficiency of the furnace is of particular importance.

There were no synthetic motor oils then, and ingenious additives for them. They make it possible to halve or more the liter fuel consumption of the internal combustion engine compared to that time, but with incomplete combustion give carcinogens, toxins, mutagens and God knows what else. And then people were generally healthier and more resilient. Nothing can be done again - in just over half a century, the population of the Earth has increased by 2.5 times and continues to grow. With regard to the stove - you need to burn it 100% and no less.

Finally, the then machine oil- natural petroleum rectified from saturated hydrocarbons - could not develop a very high temperature during combustion. Therefore, very harmful and dangerous oxides of nitrogen in the stoves of that time were formed only by individual molecules. And the current simple stove on working out can throw them out in quantities that are tangible for health. So it is worth dwelling on nitrogen oxides in more detail.

Nitrogen oxides

All nitrogen oxides are dangerous to humans. In medicine, the easiest of them is used for anesthesia - nitrous oxide, laughing gas, but strictly according to the dosage under the supervision of an anesthesiologist. The more nitrogen combines with oxygen, the more dangerous the result. Oxidation tanks of combat missiles are filled with nitrogen tetroxide N2O4 - worthy of the causticity and toxicity of the "sister" of the fuel - heptyl (asymmetric dimethylhydrazine), which it oxidizes. hellish stuffing modern machines mass destruction lurks not only in warheads.

How can an oxide oxidize? The fact is that nitrogen oxides are endothermic compounds, it is necessary to spend energy on their formation; nitrogen and oxygen "do not like" each other, the difference in their electrochemical potentials and the quantum properties of the electron shells do not allow them to bind strongly. When interacting with compounds that have restorative properties(easily combined with oxygen, halogens and their relatives according to the periodic table) nitrogen oxides give off oxygen just as easily, which is oxidation with energy release, i.e. combustion. With regard to rockets, a heavy molecular weight fuel with a heavy oxidizer gives a large exhaust mass and strong jet thrust.

As for ovens, here you need to know the following:

At a temperature of 900 degrees, nitrogen oxides are formed in noticeable quantities.
If there is an excess of oxygen in the gas-air mixture, then at a high temperature it “intercepts” fuel particles, and nitrogen oxides go further along the smoke path.
At about 600 degrees, the oxidative activity of nitrogen oxides becomes higher than that of oxygen, and they begin to oxidize fuel particles that have not yet burned; the result is nitrogen that is completely harmless in every sense, carbon dioxide and water vapor.
If the temperature drops below 400 degrees, then nitrogen oxides fall into the second "stability hole" of their phase diagram; they can no longer oxidize heavy organics (oxygen, too) and go outside with flue gases.

Fuel price

Oil from the engine is not drained every day, and you need to heat it regularly in winter. Donations of well-wishers cannot be regular. If you have to buy fuel for the furnace, what will it cost?

The selling price of used oil in the Russian Federation ranges from 5 to 14 rubles per liter. self-delivery, this is about 5 rubles / km in a passenger car with a trailer. And it’s not at all easy to buy: mining is considered hazardous waste, you need a license for processing. Moreover, wholesale buyers sell reluctantly and certainly not by bucket-and-canister norms. They process oil into dark heating oil. Profitability is high, and who will give away valuable raw materials cheaply?

But there is an interesting move here. Enterprises often buy fresh engine oil in the general flow of fuels and lubricants, because. strict accounting of its purchases is not required. Working off must be taken into account, but then who will know how much it came out? There is a sense to indulge in such frauds - there is less trouble with the environment, and the income from the sale of mining on a production scale is meager. Therefore, enterprises often give away used engine oil for free or for a penny, just to be taken out. That is, if you know how to agree - there will be something to drown.

Two principles in one principle

A home-made oven for testing may not be much more complicated than a pan, but the processes taking place in it are very, very difficult. Otherwise, complete combustion with high efficiency and harmless exhaust can not be achieved. To fully understand them and select the appropriate design for implementation, or a prototype for your own, you must first remember the Coriolis force.

Coriolis force

Coriolis force, as you know, arises due to the rotation of the Earth; this a prime example how the huge and slow manifests itself in the small and fast. It is the Coriolis force that spins the water flowing from the bath. Since the speed of the water flow in the pipe is much less than the sound one in it (the speed of the flow of flue gases in the chimney is also), the Coriolis twist - it occurs only in the vertical sections of the pipe - is transmitted back, and the formation of a vortex depends on the length of the vertical part of the outlet pipe.

It is easy to make sure of this: we take an ordinary funnel, plug the watering can with a finger, fill it with water and release the finger. The water flows out smoothly. Now we put on a watering can a piece of hose from a meter or more, leave it hanging down and do the same. The water swirled.

The magnitude of the Coriolis force also depends on the ratio of the density of the medium to its viscosity, so it is more difficult to spin the gas “according to Coriolis”. In addition, gases are compressible, so the Reynolds number and other factors also come into play. The high chimney of the boiler room can emit an even column of steam.

But why swirl flue gases? Without this, it is impossible to achieve high-quality, complete and safe combustion of fuel. In order for the heat from the initial combustion of light fractions to go to the splitting of heavy fractions, which will then give the bulk of the heat, the mixture must be thoroughly mixed all the time. You can twist with different nozzles, supercharging, etc., but it is difficult for an ordinary do-it-yourselfer to make such designs (we will also consider them). But the Coriolis force is easier to use; we will see later how.

Conclusion on the Coriolis force: when repeating the designs of furnaces, it is necessary to accurately maintain the indicated dimensions and proportions. From non-compliance - children, voracity, poison.

Main principle

Oil oven - heater on heavy, poorly burning and heavily polluted fuels of complex composition. In order for it to burn completely, its heavy components must be split into lighter ones; to oxidize everything that is in the oil, oxygen is too tough. Burning completely what has already split is a simpler task.

The splitting process is called pyrolysis, or flame splitting. Ultimately, the heat of combustion of the fuel itself is used for pyrolysis; it is a self-sustaining and self-regulating process, which is a very good thing. But to start pyrolysis, the fuel must be evaporated, and the vapors must be heated but at a certain starting temperature (300-400 degrees), after which the pyrolysis will increase and everything will burn out. There are two ways to achieve this at home.

Principle One

According to the first method, the oil in the tank is simply set on fire. It heats up and begins to evaporate, and then everything happens in a simple vertical pipe with expansions and, possibly, with bends. circuit diagram the device of such a furnace is shown in the figure.

Air enters the tank with burning oil through its neck with a throttle valve; with its help, the combustion force is regulated, i.e. thermal power of the furnace, without disturbing the combustion mode. To make this possible, the gas-air mixture must be continuously mixed along the pipe. This is where the Coriolis force comes to the rescue, with the length of the vertical chimney and its diameter correctly selected according to the properties of the fuel.

Also, a practically free flow of air is needed in the combustion chamber into which the tank passes - the furnace works normally with an excess of oxygen. Therefore, the combustion chamber is perforated. The cap to the afterburner (extension above the combustion chamber) does not have to be a cap, as in the diagram. It can also be an incomplete partition when the output of the combustion chamber with the chimney is separated horizontally. But it is absolutely necessary to separate the zone of oxygen afterburning and nitric oxide, and organize a corresponding temperature jump between them, otherwise the still too hot oxygen will take away “food” from nitrogen oxides, and in the meantime they will cool down to a hole in the phase diagram and go into the pipe in all its harmfulness.

Drawings of a furnace for mining of this type are shown in large fig. below, its appearance and Assembly drawing- in fig. above. This is a well-known home-made and well-proven design. Ignite it with a small torch through a fully open throttle hole. The height of the chimney (straight!) is at least 4 m.

Mini

Here in the figure is also a mini-furnace for mining and oil sludge, which is also very popular among do-it-yourselfers. The thickness of the material, ordinary structural steel, from 4 mm. The stove weighs about 10 kg compared to 27-30 for the previous one, and its dimensions in terms of plan are determined by those of the tank. The author of the design recommends for him the bottom and top of a standard gas cylinder. Quite reasonable if one is available - very strong, and only one weld. But for the tank, any other container of the indicated dimensions plus / minus 20 mm is also suitable.

This stove has a number of features:

The mixing zone of the air-fuel mixture is the lower funnel of the combustion chamber. Due to its expansion, the mixture lingers here and kneads for a long time.
The length of the vertical part of the chimney is limited to about 3.5 m. Otherwise, the draft will suck the mixture out before it has time to burn out.
The afterburning zone is not divided and represents the upper funnel of the combustion chamber. Before narrowing into the chimney, the flue gases are again delayed and burn out well, but again - with moderate draft.

As a result, the thermal power of the furnace is limited to 5-6 kW; It is simply dangerous to “fire up” this stove beyond measure. But on the other hand, the fuel consumption is about 0.5 l / h, and the stove is relatively easy to clean. The design is collapsible, the joints of the combustion chamber with the tank and the chimney are pulled together with clamps. In disassembled form, this stove can be carried with you in the trunk - to the country house, to the hunting lodge, etc.

Refueling

Suppose you are not too lazy to build an extension for the stove and supply hot water from it to the house. The first task that needs to be solved is feeding the furnace at least for the night. It is impossible to increase the reservoir: the oil will not warm up and the stove will not flare up as it should. But the solution has long been known: continuous refueling on the principle of communicating vessels.

The requirements for such recharge are clear from the figure; the throttle on the tank is not conventionally shown, but, of course, it is still necessary. Of its functions, only combustion control remains, and this is a big plus in terms of fire safety. Otherwise, after all, one would have to pour a combustible liquid into a fire or a red-hot vessel, or wait until the furnace cools down. Insert a wick into the fuel line as in blowtorch, it is useless: it will immediately become clogged during working out.

Supercharging

What about a supercharged mining furnace? After all, it is known that it increases the efficiency and thermal power of furnaces. Yes, but you can’t just build a supercharger into a self-burning stove. Blow into the furnace, i.e. reservoir, it is useless - we will only unbalance the self-regulating combustion system. The furnace will quickly flare up, and then, when the light fractions of the fuel burn out, it will go out: the air flow will take away the heat necessary to evaporate the heavy ones. Unfortunately, you cannot improve the parameters of an oil stove on self-burning by blowing into the furnace.

But blowing (more precisely, blowing) can be used for another purpose. By artificially increasing the draft, you can make a chimney with kinks: from the chimney (combustion chamber neck) - long, full wall, horizontal pipe, and only then a vertical chimney. This will improve the heating of the room with minimal additional costs, without disturbing the combustion regime in the furnace.

To enhance the draft, you can use two methods of blowing into the chimney: injection (pos. A in the figure) and ejector, pos. B. The first is very simple and completely safe: when the pressurization stops, some thrust is maintained. The stove will simply heat up worse and consume more fuel. But you need a source of compressed air. And a thin (1-3 mm clearance) tube, durite hose and control valve.

For ejector pressurization, any low-power fan is sufficient: a 12 V computer fan with a diameter of 120-150 mm, a kitchen exhaust fan, an industrial VN-2 fan, or the like. The required capacity is at least 1500 l/h, and the diameter of the inlet neck of the ejector is 20-50% larger than the diameter of the chimney.

However, if the ejector blowing stops, the flue gases will go into the room, so a flapper valve with a weak return (slamming) spring is needed between the fan and the ejector. Considering also that the pairing of the chimney with the ejector looks simple only on the diagram (like all equipment in general), the design turns out to be rather complicated.

Video: furnace for testing with pressurization and refueling

air heating

An oil stove is a compact (concentrated) source of heat, and the heating of the room from it will be uneven, especially if it is not insulated and has thin walls. You can find recommendations to turn the first of the described furnaces into a more efficient air heater by welding metal ribs onto the afterburner (knob). But the afterburner will cool down more than allowed, and the operation mode of the furnace will be disturbed.

And now remember: any greedy person collects more than he needs. And the oil-fired oven has a mode stability margin, expressed in quite specific kilowatts of heat. More precisely - 15-20% of the thermal power, i.e. You can select up to 2-3 kW. Only you need to take it carefully and little by little evenly from everywhere, so that the greedy one does not catch on.

The simplest way to do this is with an ordinary room fan, floor or table, blowing the stove from a distance of 1.5-2 m. The whole stove will cool down a little from it, but there is no temperature jump along the gas flow that can knock down the regime. And the flow warm air heats up the room quickly and evenly. - the best option.

mini water heater

Now let's see how to organize a hot water supply or water heating from a self-burning stove. To pile a water tank on the afterburner means, again, to bring down the combustion mode. Therefore, now we will take the heat where the furnace itself no longer needs it. How to do this is shown in the figure on the right. For the first of the described furnaces, the heat sink will need to be built into the structure during its assembly, otherwise the afterburner will interfere.

Instead of a coil, you can weld a water jacket, then you do not need a heat-reflecting screen made of galvanized, tin or aluminum. But in any case, there must be a gap of at least 50-70 mm between the heat absorber and the outer wall of the combustion chamber for free air access, and at least 120-150 mm at the bottom, if there is a desire to make the shirt higher. But there is no special meaning in this, approximately 75% of thermal radiation comes from the upper third of the combustion chamber and the adjacent area of the afterburner.

In total, such a heater is able to give up to a third of its thermal power, with forced circulation of the coolant. Quite enough . For a summer residence, 20% is enough, then the circulation in the system can be left thermosiphon.

Note: in both cases, an expansion tank is needed low and wide, at least 50 liters, and always atmospheric, not membrane, and with an emergency drain in case of boiling. The alternative is complicated: automation that regulates the throttle according to the temperature of the water in the system. Second Alternative option not easier, but even more expensive - filling the system with high-boiling antifreeze. Careful sealing of joints is needed with special drainage in expansion tank, which will cost no less than automation.

Disadvantages of self-burning

All self-burning stoves have serious drawbacks. Firstly, these are devices with an open flame and hot parts accessible to the touch - the combustion zone "at full throttle" is red-hot. Therefore, it is unacceptable to put them in residential premises, and using them as heating devices is 100% not an insured event. It is necessary to install in a separate fireproof annex and arrange for the selection and removal of heat, at least as described above.

Secondly, it makes no sense to expect to get a thermal power of more than 15 kW by increasing the size. The intensity of oil evaporation required for this cannot be achieved by self-burning; only fumes and soot will go.

Thirdly, it is possible to extinguish a burning stove only with a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. Powder - God forbid, hitting a hot metal, the powder will immediately explode! When the throttle is fully closed, enough air will pass through the holes in the combustion chamber so that the flame glows like a candle in a glass. Arranging a view anywhere is useless - instant fumes and waste. If it has already become hot, then the fuel should burn out completely.

Note: the view between the tank and the combustion chamber is especially dangerous. Oil vapors are dense; their pressure is high, and boiling will not stop instantly. Burning oil may splash out, and if the throttle is also closed, the furnace may explode.

Fourthly, the selection of heat for heating or hot water, although possible, is difficult. Excessive cooling external surfaces violates temperature regime inside the furnace, leading at best to reduced efficiency and soot deposits. An oil-burning stove is a greedy stove. It won't give up its heat capital just like that.

Fifthly, when refueling with heavily watered fuel, rapid instantaneous boiling is possible immediately in the entire volume of the tank. Simply put - the explosion of the stove.

Finally, although the stove is economical (no more than 1.5 l / hour of oil), the heaviest fractions of the fuel cannot evaporate and settle into sludge in the tank. 5-6 furnaces, and you need to rake out, and this is not easy. The tank is necessarily one-piece welded. A collapsible design of any conceivable do-it-yourselfer will not hold boiling blazing oil. The consequences are obvious.

Principle Two

Is it possible to make a waste oil furnace free from these disadvantages? One that you can put in the kitchen and let it warm you up? Yes, it is possible, but you will have to work harder and apply all your skills.

If you take a closer look, you can clearly see that the source of all the dangers of self-burning stoves is a reservoir of burning oil. To get rid of it, you need to evaporate and spray the fuel in some other way. The zones of pyrolysis, combustion and afterburning are best combined in a flame, so that the removal of heat from flue gases does not disrupt the operation of the furnace. And it is highly desirable that the furnace could operate on flooded fuel. Technically speaking, you need a burner.

IN industrial environment almost any fuel is burned clean in nozzles, the top pos in fig. In order for complete combustion to occur in a torch, two- and three-stage formation of an air-fuel mixture is used: compressed air pulls atmospheric, and the diaphragm separates and swirls air flow. Everything burns in the nozzle, up to the bilge water of the ships.

Note: bilge water - a cocktail of seawater, fuel, domestic wastewater, and cargo leaks that collects at the very bottom of the hold. Gathers in the bilge main. Sewer collector in big city compared to bilge water - a beach in the Canaries.

For the normal operation of the nozzle, not only high precision manufacturing and special materials are required. We also need a whole small fuel preparation workshop: a homogenizer for the contents of fuel tanks, its dispersant in pipelines, pumps, filters, a fuel heating system and automation that controls all this.

But even this is not enough to work out. The reason for this is all the same heavy bituminous components. The nozzle for testing has to be supplemented with a flame jacket and an afterburner with thermal insulation, the lower pos in fig.

And yet, a working-out burner available for self-manufacturing exists. And even in several forms.

flame bowl

The principle of operation is simple - fuel drips into a hot bowl, evaporates explosively, flares up and burns out (pos. A in the figure). It also comes here, with supercharging from a low-power fan, atmospheric air; when using a centrifugal volute fan, it must be screwed in, for which a fixed impeller can be installed at the mouth of the duct.

For the initial heating of the bowl, it is necessary to ignite the burner, therefore, in industrial conditions, the flame bowl is rarely used, but do-it-yourselfers successfully use it. The design ensures almost complete combustion in the immediate vicinity of the bowl, so the mining boiler with a flame bowl is obtained in the most relaxed way, which is also noted in Fig. The 3/4 turn of exhaust gases is indicated for clarity. In fact, it is necessary that the gas mixture scroll inside a little longer, then the efficiency will be higher. But if the twist is too strong, combustion is incomplete. Designing a flame bowl from scratch requires very serious knowledge and experience.

Pyrolysis in the flame bowl occurs in a peculiar way: the decomposition of heavy fractions is ensured not only high temperature, but also by complex physicochemical processes in an exploding drop, which are significantly different from those in a large mass of matter. Actually, this is not quite pyrolysis, and the bowl in a hot state is supported not only by combustion, but also by the energy released during the decay of molecules.

When used as a fuel, used oil still requires afterburning outside the bowl, for which holes and slots are made in the air duct. It turns out something like a combustion chamber simple ovens on working out, turned inside out. A drawing of a furnace of this type with a power of about 15 kW at a fuel consumption of 1-1.5 l / h, depending on its quality, is shown below.

Pos. B in fig. above - a low-power (up to 5 kW) bowl with a porous fire-resistant filler 2. It is placed directly on the grate 1 of any stove, even a potbelly stove. The fuel supply is regulated by valve 3, and the air enters through the standard blower 4. We will discuss this design in more detail later.

At pos. In a highly efficient, but complex device for the complete combustion of any type of liquid fuel - a Babington burner, or a BB burner, or simply a B burner. Its base is a hollow hot metal sphere 1 with holes 0.2-0.5 mm in diameter. Air is blown into the sphere through tube 2, and fuel drips onto it from fuel line 6. The air coming out of the holes atomizes it, and it burns out. Unburned residues are collected in a collection 3, and the gear fuel pump 4 is fed back into the fuel line through the bypass valve 5.

Note: for working out the pump needs a gear. Another will soon fail from pollution.

The Babington burner has not one zest, as is commonly believed, but two. Firstly, since air is blown out of the holes, the BB burner works stably on the most polluted fuel. Secondly, due to surface tension, the fuel envelops the sphere with a thin film, and the physical chemistry in films is completely different than in aggregates of matter. There are separate sciences - physics and chemistry of thin films. The sciences are complex, but the essence is simple: the BB burner is completely smokeless, and its environmental cleanliness practically does not depend on either the composition of the fuel or the combustion mode. Therefore, the BB burner can be built into any furnace without any. For ignition, a small portion of heating oil is used in an annular tray under the sphere.

Note: the fuel collector directly under the burner is shown conditionally. In fact, for the sake of fire safety, drops of unburnt fall into a funnel and flow down a narrow tube into a collection. Until they run out, they will go out.

About water ovens

A water stove is not a stove with a hot water circuit at all. This is a heavy fuel stove with a nozzle, into the torch of the flame of which drops of water fall. Instantly evaporating from the heat, they spray fuel, which burns out.

Older people remember the bituminous boilers with water nozzles that road builders and builders carried with them. The fuel was the same bitumen, pieces of which were placed in the melting chamber. Now water stoves are almost out of use, and in some countries are banned for environmental reasons. Exhaust they give a transparent, but very harmful. The reason is the formation of free hydrogen, a strong reducing agent, in the flame. It binds to atmospheric nitrogen, and together they actively react with saturated fuel hydrocarbons, giving harmful organics.

From history along the way. Water injection (later - a water-methanol mixture) was invented in BMW, then producing aircraft engines for the Luftwaffe, in 1937, for a short-term increase in engine power. At first, the innovation remained in vain - an expensive engine in this mode developed a resource in 20 minutes. But in 1944, water-injected Bf-109G3s appeared on the Eastern Front. Contrary to popular belief, the fighting qualities of the Messers are a short-term “squeal” from 1900 to 2300 hp. did not improve - the maneuverability of the car "on a screech" was completely lost, and it was possible to fly only in a straight line. But with a speed of 710 km / h. The fact is that experienced German pilots in the east were almost knocked out by that time, and it was impossible to escape from the Yak-3, La 5/7 or Airacobra without a “squeal”.

There were few Messers on the western front, they were saved for the east. The basis of the fleet was heavy, but high-altitude FW-190. If the Messers fell to the west, then the “squeal” was already removed in parts for the sake of relief: there were fewer maneuverable “dog dumps” above the trenches, and the Spitfire MkVIII and Mustang P-51D (both with the English Rolls engine -Royce Griffon XII "in 2200 hp regular) coped with jet Me-262.

The history of one potbelly stove

The author's parents had a dacha with a potbelly stove, and he was entrusted with the procurement of fuel (“You are already big, you can’t climb out of the forest”). Since the dacha partnership spread over an area of about 400 hectares, with plots from 6 to 20 acres, the surroundings were always robbed, not only to a chip - to a dry blade of grass, and often for lunch they had to chew dry meat flavored with parental reproaches.

And then the kid came across Raymond Priestley's book "The Antarctic Odyssey". The story is incredible - 6 people, the northern party of the expedition of Robert Scott, were abandoned in Antarctica on the eve of winter. Without warm clothes, without reliable shelter, almost without food and fuel.

From the cold and mad Antarctic winds - Blizzards - escaped by digging a cave in the snow. Sailors' knives and ice axes managed to slaughter the seals enough not to starve to death until spring. But in the cave it was necessary to maintain the temperature just below zero, at -60 and below outside, otherwise you would not survive, even lying all the time in sleeping bags. And the greasers on the blubber smoked more than they warmed and shone.

And then one of the party members, a simple sailor Harry Dickason, made an invention that saved everyone. He poured blubber into a tray from a tin rusk can, threw fragments of seal bones into it, and set it on fire. Molten seal fat, passing through the pores of the hot bone, evaporated and burned with a strong bright flame with almost no smoke. Polar explorers now could not only not be afraid to freeze, but also cook hot. And they even fried penguins on holidays.

By spring, they looked like firebrands with tangles on their heads and could barely stand on their feet. But still, all six were able to overcome several hundred kilometers on the ice and returned to the base, where they had long been considered dead.

Returning, these people, all later life who turned out to recognize themselves as heroes, learned that the well-equipped main party, led by Captain Scott himself, reached the South Pole after Amundsen, and on the way back they all died.

The idea was born immediately - to transfer the stove to oil sludge. At the oil depot they gave it as much as you want for nothing. And the experiments were carried out on working out from neighbors-motorists.

For the bowl, the dacha watchman donated a stainless steel bowl. His faithful comrade-in-arms, the wolfhound, the Prosecutor, recognized only a faience plate. Seal bones replaced broken brick; for the dropper there was a copper tube and a piece of rubber. An unusable washing tank went to the fuel tank with an ordinary water tap screwed in at the bottom instead of a stem. This was the most costly and troublesome part of the job: a hole with a pipe thread cost the Soviet hacky standard - a bubble. Moreover, the locksmith-burner did not agree to any "Moscow special" at 2.87, but certainly demanded "Stolichnaya" for 4.12. Not counting the explanations to the parents, for which the 13-year-old boy needed a bottle of vodka.

The potbelly stove was kindled at the working out simply - oil was let into the bowl until it was shown above the brick. Then a crumpled newspaper popped into the firebox. After a minute or two, she apparently oiled herself, then set on fire. After another 3-4 min. the flame grew sharply and brightened, as in kerosene lamp; it was a sign that it was time to start dripping. A 5-liter washing basin in spring and autumn was enough for a day of heating and cooking. After 3-4 fireboxes, it was necessary to knock out brick chips baked with sludge into a monolith from the bowl, but the exhaust was clean, at least smell it.

The stove worked properly for 4 years, until the parents were about to move to another city, and was also handed over to the new owner in full working order. What happened to her next is unknown.

Finished stoves

Waste oil is cheap and accessible view fuel. And the stove obtained from it also does not bite at a price. The stove, on the other hand, is a very economical and, in fact, universal heating device. And not everyone knows how to make, and quite responsible designs. Are such furnaces not mass-produced? And if so, how much does a factory furnace cost to work out?

Produced, and are in constant demand. The world leaders in production are Turkey and Italy. Prices, given the demand for products, are not small: the stove is only a little prettier than the first of those described, it costs about $ 1000, and those working on the principle: “Fill, press the button and forget”, with a hot water circuit - from $ 8000.

There are also domestic domestic ovens on heavy oil products and oil sludge - KChM, Indigirka, Tunguska and others. But the gas-generating hot-water boiler "Gekkon" designed by Kurlykov is in the greatest demand, it is mass-produced, and used engine oil is included in the list of fuels recommended by the manufacturer.

The device of the boiler "Gekkon" is shown in the figure; positions are as follows:

Lid with explosive valve;
flue;
Thermal insulation;
Afterburner;
Coolant;
Decorative panel;
Air blower;
Air receiver;
fuel line;
Adjustable legs;
Evaporator;
Slag collector;
Ash pan;
Gas-air flow swirler;
Pyrolysis chamber;
Fire Corps.

The Kurlykov boiler operates on the principle of a flame bowl with afterburning in a tubular chamber. Automatic ignition is not provided, but the height of the chimney is not regulated, and in the GEKKON the very last “sucks” really burns out completely. GEKKONs are produced for power from 15 to 100 kW; manufacturer's price, respectively, from 44,000 to 116,000 rubles.

Note: Kurlykov's boiler is patented. Its independent production for sale will be a violation of copyright.

Finally

To burn a working off is, generally speaking, a palliative. You never know what has accumulated in this oil during operation. But in general, in terms of ecology, the burning of used motor oils is still preferable to their processing, therefore, in developed countries, from 4% to 12% of waste is used for burning; in Russia - 5% of those accounted for.

It makes sense to start a furnace for mining also because the technology for obtaining furnace fuel from the same mining and oil sludge is being improved and its price is slowly but surely falling. And if the furnace eats mining, then you can feed it better fuel without any problems.

The development of autonomous heating is a serious direction in world environmental policy. Up to 30% of heat is lost in heating mains, and the overall efficiency of heating plants rarely exceeds 60%, and the furnace gives up to 80%. This is not to mention savings on pipes and earth-moving equipment, and metallurgy is not a pure industry.

Video: an example of a finished home-made furnace for testing with explanations

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