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The boiler from an oxygen cylinder is being worked out. Video: advanced oil mining furnace

The stove from the gas cylinder will be more economical and more efficient than its equal in complexity of manufacturing from other improvised materials. The very shape of the gas cylinder will help. The quality of the furnace is largely determined by its furnace. Ideal in all respects, the firebox is spherical. Considering that the furnace must have at least 2 openings - an inlet, for loading fuel and air supply, and an outlet, for exiting exhaust gases into the chimney, the optimal shape of the furnace is not a very long and narrow cylinder with rounded ends, but such a cylinder is. Its shape is chosen based on the need to keep more pressure with minimal metal consumption, but the result is the same.

What oven can be made from a cylinder?

Since the shape of the furnace is optimized on the most general grounds, then cylinder furnaces can be very different - from fiery burning to sophisticated designs, from which even an experienced heating engineer, as they say, turns his eyes back. This article discusses several furnaces, built in ascending order of manufacturing complexity; their purpose is also taken into account:

for residential premises.
Heating for non-residential premises.
Summer cooking.
Universal small-sized portable emergency; oven just in case.

The need to minimize the cost of additional materials and the ability to make a do-it-yourself oven without complex tools and/or technological operations. Of course, a prerequisite is sufficient convenience and safety of use. Unfortunately, recommendations on the legalization of home-made stoves cannot be given: fire rules for them are very strict. Here everyone needs to resolve the issue on the spot, as anyone can. Or not to decide at all: building furnaces yourself is not prohibited anywhere, but possible consequences will be fully borne by the author/owner.

Note: the requirement of maximum simplicity and cheapness does not apply to the rocket furnace described at the end. However, this stove not only heats big room on slivers-twigs, but also allows you to get at home the real warm bed without building a brick oven. And the cost of materials and labor for it is required several times less.

Which balloon to look for?

Primarily: for the furnace you need an all-metal cylinder. Composite explosion-proof are unsuitable, they are not heat-resistant. A 5-liter household cylinder (pos. 1 in the figure) is definitely not suitable for the main part of the stove: it is too small. The ratio of its surface to volume will give such own heat losses that it will not work to burn any fuel completely. To make additional thermal insulation - the game is not worth the candle. The complexity of the work, the cost of materials, the dimensions and weight of the furnace will increase so much that all the work loses its meaning.

Note: only possible application A 5-liter cylinder is a fuel tank for a liquid fuel stove. Two of these will be discussed below.

12 and 27-liter cylinders (pos. 2 and 3) allow you to make a stove just in case, which can also be stored in the pantry of a city apartment. With a 12-liter oven, you can remove thermal power 2-3 kW, and from a 27-liter - 5-7 kW.

The best blank for the furnace is the most common 50-liter propane tank with a diameter of 300 mm and a height of 850 mm (pos.4). Its volume is already sufficient for efficient combustion any fuel in any known way, and the weight and dimensions do not complicate the work. In addition, there are many such cylinders in everyday life that are still quite serviceable, but have exhausted their resource according to specifications; they can be bought cheaply. Most of the furnaces described below are made from such cylinders.

Note: if there is a choice, a cylinder with a valve should be used, not a valve. From the valve, an excellent power regulator of the furnace is obtained by supplying air (air throttle).

As for the common 40-liter cylinders for industrial gases (item 5) with a caliber of 240 mm, they are not suitable for the furnace: although the walls of thick, durable metal will ensure the durability of the furnace, the cylinders themselves are too narrow, heavy and bulky. A good powerful oven, up to 100 kW or more, could be made from a 12- or 18-inch professional cylinder, but they are rare, expensive, and not every healthy man can shoulder such an empty one.

From small 2-10 liter industrial cylinders, in principle, it would be possible to make camping stoves, but again - the metal is thick, durable, it is difficult to work with it, and the stove itself will come out too heavy. There are, however, in the population of small special balloons some exotic individuals, from which excellent ones are obtained; later we will talk about them.

From simple to complex: balloon potbelly stove

You probably guessed even earlier that the simplest home-made stove from a gas cylinder is emergency backup, 12 or 27 liters. You can put a 50-liter stove on it, but such a stove will no longer fit in the city pantry. A balloon potbelly stove will not be able to regularly heat several generations: relatively thin metal the body of the domestic cylinder will burn out. But it is quite possible to heat a shed with it from time to time or hold out on it until it is warm.

The design is extremely simple, see fig. Of the purchased units, only a furnace door or a monoblock from a furnace / blower is needed. Here, the theoretically optimal form of a plump, curvy cylinder works to the maximum: a balloon potbelly stove does not need a grate with an ash pan, all sorts of internal partitions. One thing that is necessary, like any potbelly stove, for good heat transfer is a horizontal chimney elbow made of a metal pipe with a length of 2-2.5 m.

Note: the diameter of the chimney of a 12-liter potbelly stove is 60 mm, 27-liter 80 mm, 50-liter 100-120 mm.

balloon cooking

Gas cylinders make good grills,. They also burn fuel, but these are no longer stoves, but culinary technological equipment, and quite a lot has been written about it. Therefore, we will no longer expand on gas-balloon cooking. However, those who are interested, as they say, without departing from the cash register, to learn how to make a brazier-barbecue from a balloon, can watch the video:

About pyrolysis

All of the following cylinder furnace designs use pyrolysis to varying degrees - the decomposition of heavy metals under the influence of high temperature. organic compounds into light, volatile and combustible. Pyrolysis allows you to burn everything that, in principle, can burn, completely - to carbon dioxide and water vapor. It is hardly possible to build a furnace with an efficiency of more than 70% without pyrolysis.

One of the main parameters of the pyrolysis process that must be taken into account when developing a furnace is the degree of its complexity. Simply put, this is the number of thermochemical reactions necessary to break the original complex and heavy molecules into capable of burning to the end.

Pyrolysis of heavy combustible liquids (eg used motor oil) occurs, as a rule, in 2-3 stages. Wood fuel decomposes into easily combustible gases already in many stages, and its complete pyrolysis takes 5-6 times more time than in a liquid fuel furnace.

Since the exhaust gases move from the combustion source to the chimney under the action of draft, pyrolysis ends at a certain distance from the furnace. For oil furnaces, it is insignificant, about 10-15 cm, and in them pyrolysis can be combined in space with afterburning of pyrolysis gases. This condition is also true for coal stoves; the volatile components of coal are released and decompose easily.

For the full pyrolysis of wood fuel, the length of the gas-flame path is already about 1 m, and in its space it is necessary to distinguish, physically or implicitly, 3 zones (chambers): the furnace itself (gasifier), where the fuel burns and primary pyrolysis gases are released, the secondary gasifier (reactor ) with a supply of secondary air (secondary), where the pyrolysis is completely completed, and an afterburner, also with a secondary supply, where light gases are completely burned. These conditions must be taken into account when designing a wood-burning stove.

Oil garage

The next in complexity, cost and labor intensity is from a balloon. This product is in great demand: you can heat a garage with such a stove for nothing, but there is no large-scale production, firefighters forbid it. Let us briefly recall the principle of its work.

Oil is quietly burning in the fuel tank, air is supplied here in a dosed manner using an air throttle. Here, the heat of its combustion goes mainly to evaporation. The vapors rise into the vertical gasification column, or reactor. The walls of the reactor are perforated; outside air freely enters through the holes. the pressure in the entire tract of the furnace due to the draft of the chimney is below atmospheric.

The influx of air sharply increases the combustion of oil vapor, the temperature rises and pyrolysis begins. The products of pyrolysis also begin to burn, due to which the temperature rises even more; in the middle part of the reactor, it can reach 1300 degrees. At this temperature, nitrogen oxides are formed in a noticeable amount. Nitrogen oxidation is an endothermic reaction, it consumes a significant part of the fuel energy. However, nitrogen oxidation is useful in this case: it protects the furnace from overheating and explosion; the rate of formation of nitrogen oxides increases sharply with increasing temperature, according to a power law.

In the upper part of the reactor, the pyrolysis gases have almost burned out and there is a large excess of air. For complete afterburning in the column, it would be required to make it several meters high and deaf, without perforation, but then nitrogen oxides would skip the peak of their temperature instability and carry away a significant fraction of the fuel energy into the pipe. To avoid this, the gases from the reactor are released into the afterburner or afterburner.

The afterburner is divided approximately in half by an incomplete partition. Directly in front of it, pyrolysis gases burn out, maintaining a temperature that excludes the stabilization of nitrogen oxides. Behind the partition, all the oxygen in the air is already used up, but the temperature here is even higher than 700 degrees. Now nitrogen oxides decompose with the release of energy back into nitrogen and oxygen, which goes to the afterburning of the remains of pyrolysis gases; the energy release of these 2 processes maintains an approximately constant temperature in the afterburner.

The exit to the chimney from the afterburner is located away from the partition, but it is enough to take it 15-20 cm away from it: thermochemical reactions in oil gases proceed quickly. Already completely burnt gases with a temperature of about 400 degrees go into the chimney, which ensures the efficiency of the furnace up to 80% and above.

Usually, a propane 50-liter tank is used for furnaces for working out from cylinders, sawing it in a ratio of 2: 1, a third goes to the tank, and 2/3 to the afterburner, pos. 1 in fig. Up to 30 kW of heat can be removed from such a furnace, but there are plenty of emergencies with a severe outcome from them.

However, in the magazine "Behind the Rulem" the design of a garage furnace for working out with a power of 5-7 kW with a reservoir of a 5-liter cylinder was published quite a long time ago. With such a low power, it was possible to combine the reactor with the afterburner into a single fully functional column:

In the lower cone of the column, the gases expand and the temperature drops to a value sufficient for pyrolysis, but almost eliminating the oxidation of nitrogen.
The perforation of the column is rare and the air flow through it with a slight excess.
In the upper cone, the gases are again delayed for a time sufficient for complete combustion at a power of up to about 8 kW.

Nitrogen oxides are still formed in this furnace, but in an insignificant amount, providing only automatic adjustment of the furnace mode. Operational power adjustment is provided by a rotary valve on the filler neck, which is also an air throttle.

This furnace can be significantly improved if there is a 10 or 12 liter industrial bottle with a caliber of 150 mm and a height of 800/900 mm. In these most often they sell helium for inflating balloons. The profitability of the balloon business reaches 400%, but it is most often carried out on temporary promotions, and the shelf life of a helium-filled cylinder is limited and short: helium is the second fastest diffusion record after hydrogen. Therefore, quite serviceable helium cylinders are often sold on the cheap.

Note: we do not recommend trying to do business with helium alone. All over the world, the floral and festive mafia firmly laid its paw on him, which, they say, even Cosa Nostra bypasses.

The design of the "helium-propane" 2-cylinder furnace for mining is shown in pos. 4. The thick walls of the cylinder distribute heat more evenly along its height, and the dome at the top and narrow, 60-80 mm, exit to the chimney trap gases more efficiently than the cone. Therefore, the perforation of the column and, accordingly, the air inflow can be increased by obtaining a power of 10-12 kW. The maximum filling of 3.5 liters is enough for 3-4 hours of operation at full power.

At the same time, you can improve the fuel-air system. A regular cylinder valve is perfect for the throttle, it only needs to be built up from the inside with a thin-walled steel tube, pos. 4a. You can simply screw it, as much force as you can, onto the part of the fitting protruding inward: the fitting thread on it is tapered, so it will grab it tightly.

It is better to make the filling fitting retractable sliding in the neck, pos. 4b. Through the extended fitting, the furnace is ignited and the fuel level is controlled. And it is relatively safe to add oil to the retracted one while the furnace is running.

If the stove is constantly heated, then it is still advisable to remember the sappers, for whom the most dangerous is not the first, but some N-th mine. You can be completely guaranteed against an emergency with a stove by arranging the fuel supply from a separate feed tank or just a feeder, pos. 5. The height of the feeder must not exceed the maximum allowable level of fuel in the tank (for a 5-liter tank, this is approximately 2/3 of its height), and the feeder must be moved at least 0.5 m from the furnace. So you can control the fuel level and refuel the stove as you like. In addition, the volume of the feeder can be any, only its height is limited, so it is quite possible to adapt a tank with refueling for a day or more under it.

"Long" stoves

In this case, this metaphor does not mean stoves from recumbent industrial bottles, but from ordinary 50-liter wood-burning stoves. In the long burning mode, the wood undergoes pyrolysis, which greatly increases the efficiency and duration of the heat transfer of the stoves. Fuel in them (from dry sawdust and weeds to debris antique furniture) burns thin layer from the surface, which is why "long" stoves are sometimes called surface burning stoves.

Pyrolysis can occur either in a physically limited separate volume with subsequent burning of pyrolysis gases in an afterburner (these are separate combustion furnaces), or pyrogases immediately escape into a large, well-heated buffer chamber, where pyrolysis is completed and pyrogases are burned, these are combined combustion furnaces. To provide high efficiency both those and others are highly desirable to heat the air entering the pyrolysis zone.

Bubafonya

An example of a long-burning furnace with separate combustion is the well-known. In it, pyrolysis is concentrated under the yoke - "pancake". The bubafoni device diagram is shown in fig. on right; as the fuel burns, the air duct with the pancake goes down. A lot has already been written about the principles of operation and features of making bubafon, so we note only the following:

The efficiency of homemade bubafoni can exceed 85%, and the duration of heat transfer from one fuel load can reach a day.
Fuel for bubafoni needs room-dry with a moisture content of up to 12%
It is permissible to load fuel into the bubafonya on the move, but it cannot be stopped; for maintenance / repair work, you must wait for the load to completely burn out.
The diameter of a 50-liter tank of 300 mm is the minimum allowable for bubafoni, so this stove must be made from it carefully and with a full understanding of the matter.

Bubafonya - the stove is very economical and is well suited for heating garages and households. premises. Its design is simple and affordable for making at home. On the trail. rice. the main stages of the workflow and dimensions are shown specifically for a balloon bubafoni with a power of up to 5-6 kW. It is only necessary to add that the gaps for air supply between the main (closest to the air duct) ends of the blades must be kept the same. When welding, instead of a conductor, it is convenient to use suitable trimmings metal - pieces of rod, etc. The blades are first grabbed from the outside, and then, having removed the “conductors”, they are welded to the end.

Note: bubafoni power can be adjusted over a wide range, up to 10 times, but only manually, because. air throttle can only be installed at the upper end of the duct, which is movable.

Slobozhanka

Even simpler in design and not inferior to the bubafon in terms of parameters, the Slobozhanka combined combustion furnace, the diagram in fig. on right. But it is hardly worth making a Slobozhanka from a cylinder, because its minimum allowable diameter is about 500 mm and a balloon Slobozhanka will not show good efficiency. In addition, all Slobozhanka stoves have very serious drawbacks:

The device of the furnace "Slobozhanka"

Extremely toxic gases accumulate under the roof of the furnace, opening the lid of the furnace on the go, you can be poisoned to death.
There is no way to stop the Slobozhanka: if you close the throttle, the stove, before choking, will draw air back through the chimney. The pressure in the furnace will exceed atmospheric pressure and the poisonous mixture will go out.
On the hearth or grate of the furnace, a hard, dense soot settles, as in all "long" furnaces. After about a year (this is on good fuel), it grows to the mouth of the air duct, and it is difficult to knock it down and in places that are easily accessible.

A beautiful stranger

Most other homemade "long" stoves are no better, but more difficult than bubafoni. But there is one, almost purely pyrolysis oven (which is rare on wood) that deserves attention, its drawing is shown in fig. In addition, this stove is also a bunker, which is also rare for wood stoves.

According to the principle of operation, the “stranger” is a simplified and truncated rocket furnace, about which see next. sec. The delay of pyrogases in the afterburner under the hob is achieved by a diaphragm in the chimney, in exactly the same way as the washers distribute the coolant from the heating main to consumers. In the furnace business, such a constructive technique is rare, because. any weakening of traction degrades the quality of the furnace, but in this case, the creators turned evil into good.

How? Power limitation: this is an exclusively summer-country cooking stove. It is only enough for cooking, although several times more can be squeezed out of a 50-liter bottle. But the “stranger” works on any combustible garbage that can be pushed into the bunker; best of all - on fairly long chips, branches and dry stems, and it is much more economical, cheaper, simpler and lighter than the simplest brick slab. The foundation here, of course, is not needed, and the chimney is sufficient with a height of 1.5-2 m.

You can’t refuse the authors of the “stranger” in the knowledge of heat engineering, but they are a little too smart with metal: separate, and even removable for furnaces and the roof of the gasifier (bottom-grate and partition in the original) are simply not needed here. The hearth can be the bottom of the 50-liter cylinder itself with the same 20 mm hole in the center, and the ash pan can be arranged in its skirt. The outlet pipe of the gasifier is welded onto the dome of the cylinder, and the afterburner can be made from cutting a 300 mm pipe or sheet metal. At the same time, it is quite possible to clean the stove through the fuel hopper and the gasifier outlet.

The crown of creation, or...

Emelya never dreamed

The crown of balloon-furnace creativity is, without a doubt, the rocket furnace, see fig. But not only and not so much because to make it according to all the rules requires considerable (albeit simple) work, attention, quick wit and accuracy. The main thing is that the rocket stove, as if on purpose, was created for a 50-liter tank, although most often it is made from a barrel. Not only the shape, but also the dimensions of a 50-liter propane cylinder are optimal for this furnace: if a rocket from a barrel heats up a horizontal section of the chimney in a stove bench (burs) up to 6 m long, then a balloon one, with a four times smaller drum capacity (see below about it) - up to 4 m. It is unlikely that anyone will need a bed of this length, but the rocket burr can be made from thin-walled metal corrugated, laying it in a wave-like manner in the array of the bed. This, of course, will greatly increase both the efficiency of heating the room and the duration of heat transfer after heating, which can reach 12 hours.

The advantages of the rocket stove are not limited to this:

This furnace is not only long, but also continuous burning. Additional loading of fuel is possible on the move of the furnace without restrictions.
The rocket stove can also be stopped and re-ignited without restrictions, and the ignition itself is elementary simple: with paper, straw or shavings, like a fire.
The rocket stove breathes, as does the .
Unlike brick stoves, rocket stoves are almost insensitive to long breaks in the furnace during the cold season.
Acceleration of a newly built or standing rocket furnace is also simple: heating with paper, shavings or straw until the couch warms to the touch.
The foundation of the rocket furnace is not needed: although its weight is under a ton, the support area is large and the load from the furnace on the floor does not exceed 250 kg per square meter allowed by SNiP. m.

There are only 2 shortcomings in the rocket stove, and, as they say, they are not fatal. Firstly, after kindling and, possibly, in the process of burning, it is necessary to set the furnace mode by adjusting the air supply. If the oven hums a lot, this does not mean that it heats better. On the contrary, in this mode, the gas-air path quickly overgrows with soot; a correctly heated stove quietly whispers.

Secondly, the power of the furnace is regulated only by the amount of fuel loading. Operational power adjustment is generally impossible; only the oven mode is set by the air supply. On the move, fuel can not only be loaded to increase power, but also separate smoldering chips can be pulled out with tongs and immediately extinguished, but this is a fire hazard.

Note: if the “whisper” of the stove seems that it heats up weakly - it doesn’t matter, wait, the heat goes into the battery. The stove will give it away later, cooling down after heating. If you need to warm up quickly, without thinking about fuel consumption yet, open the air until it buzzes. It is undesirable to bring it to a loud roar, soot inside will strongly settle.

How does a rocket work?

The device and principle of operation of the rocket furnace. Here we recall the most important.

The idea of a rocket furnace "on the fingers" is as follows: imagine 2 physically connected processes with an efficiency less than 100%; let's say 90% each. For the flow of the 2nd, the products of the 1st are needed. If they are launched together at once, then due to mutual interference due to entropy, the final efficiency will not exceed 65%. And if you “scroll” the 1st one first, save its results somewhere and then run the 2nd one on them, then the maximum overall efficiency will be slightly more than 80%.

In the most general sense, this is a universal law. It is thanks to him market economy with all its cumbersome and gluttonous financial, administrative and security superstructures, it turns out to be more efficient than subsistence farming. In the rocket furnace, this law is technically implemented by the sequential inclusion of 2 furnaces, generating heat and storage-heating.

The generator stove consists of (see Fig.) a blower 1a with an air supply regulator (they put the furnace into operation), a fuel hopper 1b with a blank cover, a channel for supplying secondary air 1c that ensures complete combustion of the fuel, a flame tube (fire pipe) 1g and internal or primary chimney - riser - 1d. The fire pipeline cannot be made too short or long: on the one hand, it must heat the secondary air well, without which it is not possible to achieve complete combustion of wood pyrogases. On the other hand, in a too long fire pipeline, the gases themselves will cool down and pyrolysis will not reach the end. The entire generating stove is securely wrapped in high-quality thermal insulation with the lowest possible intrinsic heat capacity. All that is required of the primary furnace is to completely burn the fuel and release a stream of burnt hot gases from the riser.

Note: in terms of efficiency, the optimal inner diameter of the riser is 70 mm. But if you strive maximum power furnace, then the riser pipe is needed already with a diameter of 100 mm; then its shell is needed not 150, but 200 mm. In this case, the efficiency decreases slightly. Further, when describing the technology for building a furnace, dimensions are given for both cases.

The basis of the heating and storage part of the furnace is a high-capacity heat accumulator, but it is impossible to immediately release gases from the riser into it, their temperature is about 1000 degrees. There are good heat-resistant heat-storing materials, but they are very expensive, so the authors of the rocket furnace used adobe as a storage medium. Its heat capacity is huge, but it is not heat-resistant, so the secondary furnace must begin with a converter of high-grade heat into medium-grade heat, with a temperature of up to 300 degrees. In addition, part of the primary heat must be transferred to the room immediately to compensate for the current heat loss.

All these functions are performed by the furnace drum, and a 50-liter cylinder will go to it. The gases from the riser enter under the cover of the drum 2a with the hob 2b. The metal drum is thin-walled, it gives off heat well to the room. Having rolled over under the cover, the gases enter the annular lowering of the drum between its tube 2g and the metal shell of the riser insulation 2v. Under the drum 2d is also metal; metal does not let flue gases into the insulation of the primary furnace.

The fact is that inexpensive and high-quality insulating materials are porous. Let flue gases into them - their pores will be drawn in, quickly clogged with burning, and all the insulation, and with it the efficiency of the furnace, will go down the drain. Saman is also porous and is also very readily spoiled by soot. Therefore, the first task in the construction of a rocket furnace is to ensure complete tightness of the gas-smoke path.

In the drum, about 1/3 of its height from the top, the gases have already cooled down enough to give up their heat to the accumulator. From this height to the bottom, the lining (coating) of the entire furnace with adobe begins. In the drum, the flue gases give off, to the outside and into the accumulator, about half of the heat generated by the generator, but it is still too early to let them into the heat exchanger: from the drum, through its outlet 2e, the gases enter the secondary ash pan 3a with a sealed cleaning door 3b, and then into a long horizontal section of the chimney (boars) 4. From the boar, the gases that have almost completely given off heat to the adobe couch are released into a conventional external chimney.

Why do you need a secondary ash pan? The gases coming out of the drum are not very hot and chemically already neutral, because. burnt to the end. But they still contain a small amount of solid suspension; mainly - microparticles of the mineral components of wood. And the hog, as mentioned above, is made of thin metal corrugated and even laid with twists, and this whole pipe is tightly walled up, so it is impossible to clean the hogs. Let dirty gases into it - the gap will soon become overgrown with soot and the bed will have to be broken. And in the secondary ash pan, the suspension settles. Once or twice a year it will have to be raked out, but the stove will now serve long years.

So, now we know enough to start building a rocket furnace. What will we do.

Building a rocket

To begin with, we need to stock up on 5 types of lining. However, their components are either inexpensive or completely underfoot, and preparing the mixture yourself is not difficult:

5a - the most common adobe: clay, thoroughly mixed with finely chopped straw and mixed with water until the dough is thick. Because the couch did not blow or sack, except for its weight, it is not loaded with anything and is in the room, the quality of the clay of great importance does not have, you can take a self-digging ravine.
5b - main heat insulator. Medium-fat oven clay in half with crushed stone from light fireclay bricks ShL. Water - until the density of the dough.
5v - heat-resistant gas-tight mechanically strong coating. Ordinary chamotte sand with furnace clay 1:1 by volume. Water - to the consistency of plasticine.
5g - self-dug sand, river or ravine, or very thin sandy loam. Washing or calcination is not needed, it is enough to sift through a sieve with a mesh of 3 mm.
5d - medium-fat oven clay.

Some explanations. It is better to introduce grass straw into adobe (meadow cereal hay), with it the strength, which we do not really need, will be lower, but the heat capacity will also be greater. As for the recipes for making adobe - choose any suitable one, this is not essential for a rocket stove. You can do it as in the video below, only we don’t need to build a house completely.

Video: making adobe

In mixture 5b, crushed stone (not sand!) And only ShL are needed. Other chamottes (SHM, ShV, etc.) are good heat accumulators themselves, it is not without reason that furnace fireboxes are made of them. But in this case, a large heat capacity will only harm. It is advisable to set more rubble ShL, if only the clay sticks it together.

The purpose of the 5v mixture is to extend the life of the furnace. All metal structures in it are steel with a wall thickness of up to 3 mm, so it is necessary that the rocket “fly” as it should. But in the flame path, thin metal will quickly burn out. However, by that time, the coating 5v will have been fired, and over time, sections of steel pipes will spontaneously be replaced by ceramic ones. True, then the stove will have to be cleaned carefully (the riser, although slowly, but still overgrown with soot), is fragile after all.

In the composition of 5g there is a rather large admixture of alumina. AT building sand it is unwanted, so get rid of it. But alumina is just right for the lining of the riser: the heat capacity of the mixture is minimal, and, when sintered, it will also gain some strength. And raw materials are available for free.

Note: lining the riser can also be done with composition 5b, but, firstly, it costs money. Secondly, the work will take a very long time - the lining will have to be layered, with the previous layer completely drying, otherwise the coating will dry in the shell for an unreasonably long time and will definitely crack inside.

Stage 0

First you need to make a bed for the stove, see fig. - durable wooden trestle bed of the required configuration. Its frame is made of intersecting cut-in quarter lags (beam 100x100 mm) with a mesh of at least 600x900 mm under the stove and at least 600x1200 mm under the bed itself. The oblong cells of the frame are oriented along the couch. The curved edges of the frame are brought to the contour by trimming timber and boards.

Note: it is not necessary to raise the bed higher, taking into account the power of the bed lining, it will be so convenient.

The frame is covered with 40 mm grooved boards. The deck board joints should be oriented perpendicular to the long sides of the frame cells. The ends of the timber and boards that protrude beyond the desired contour of the bench are sawn in shape immediately, but its outer contour remains free for now, it will be sheathed with drywall, etc. upon completion of the furnace.

Before assembly, the parts are first impregnated with a biocide, and the entire structure is impregnated twice with a water-polymer emulsion. The frame parts are fastened at the crosshairs with diagonal pairs of 6x90 mm confirmations, and the decking boards are attached to the frame with longitudinal pairs of 6x60 mm confirmations, a pair in the board for each longitudinal log.

Then, at the place of permanent installation of the furnace, 4 mm mineral cardboard is laid on the floor with some margin for trimming along the contour, and the place over which the furnace itself will be is additionally covered with a sheet of roofing iron; it must be cut in shape in advance, taking into account the fact that the offset in front of the furnace furnace must be at least 100 mm, this is enough for a rocket.

Now the bed is moved into place. They immediately arrange an exit to the outer chimney, somewhere at the rear edge of the stove bench. Its lower edge should be 70-90 mm above level A of the furnace lining (see Fig. with the main diagram), i.e. 120-140 mm from the bedding level.

Stage 1

On the bed along the entire contour, a solid formwork is made with a height of A, according to the main scheme of the furnace (40-50 mm), with a smooth upper edge. If the bed is adjacent to the wall, the formwork is brought to the walls, and the level of its top is beaten off with a cord. Then the formwork is poured with adobe and its surface is smoothed with a polisher - a flat, smooth board with a rounded corner. If the formwork is incomplete and it is inconvenient to lead the far end along the mark, beacons from plywood strips can still be leaned against the walls; they are removed when the adobe dries up, and the cracks are covered.

Stage 2

While level A dries, let's make a drum from a cylinder, see fig. First, cut off its top so that a hole with a diameter of 200-220 mm is obtained (do not forget to bleed off the remaining gas!), It is covered with a 3-4 mm thick steel round, this will be a hob. Then a cut is made below the upper welding seam of the cylinder by 40-50 mm, this is almost a cover.

A thin sheet metal skirt is welded to the lid. Its side seam also needs to be welded, it will greatly lead the skirt away from the seam connection. Cooked at a direct current of 60 A with a 2-mm electrode. I must say that it is difficult to keep the arc in this mode, you need to be a fairly experienced welder. After mounting the skirt, holes are drilled in it for M4-M5 bolts, 3-6 holes. evenly around the circumference, 20-25 mm from the bottom edge.

The third cut of the balloon is below the bottom seam, where the tube begins to pass into the rounded bottom. The remnants of the balloon skirt do not need to be removed, so it will only hold on tighter in the stove. Now, at the bottom of the tube, we make a cutout for its exit in the form of a horizontally elongated rectangle. Its height is 70 mm and the width depends on the selected riser tube, see inset on the top right of the main diagram.

The next operation is laying the sealing gasket. For her, a braided asbestos cord is needed; untwisted shaggy twine is not good. The cord is glued with superglue or, better, with Moment. Then the glue, of course, will burn out, but the gasket will also stick to the remnants, especially since the cover will have to be removed once a year, not every year.

Having laid the gasket, immediately, as soon as the glue has seized, we put on the lid and put a load of 2-3 kg on it. Under load, we mark the holes in the tube in place. After removing the cover, drill and cut the thread. Now we insert the tube into the inverted cover and measure the depth of the drum, this is necessary to clarify the height of the riser pipe. We take apart the lid with the tube so that the gasket is not soaked through with glue and the cord does not lose elasticity, stage 2 is finished.

Stage 3

Level A will dry for a week or two, and at this time we will deal with the furnace part of the furnace. Details 1a, 1b and 1d from a professional pipe 150x150 mm; riser pipe 1d round. When marking blanks, it is necessary to observe the distance indicated on the main diagram from the rear, if viewed from the side of the blower, the edge of the bunker to the front edge of the drum. Within the specified limits, it is arbitrary, based on the location of the furnace and its design. The removal of the blower forward is also arbitrary, but, of course, within reasonable limits. It is also not necessary to push the blower under the bunker, the valve will be hot. The best option is to cut off the blower flush with the front edge of the bunker, as in the diagram.

After cutting holes for the hopper and the riser pipe, the first step is to weld the partition of the secondary air channel 1c, at a height of 30 mm from the bottom of the furnace. A solid seam is not needed, 2 tacks through the not yet welded rear end of the firebox are enough, 2-4 through the hole for the bunker and 2 through the blower. Material - sheet steel 1.5-2.5 mm.

Note: the angle of inclination of the hopper can be within 45-90 degrees from the horizontal. But at a slope of 45 degrees, rough chips can get stuck, and if the hopper is vertical, then when reloading fuel, the hand is dangerously close to the hot drum. Therefore, a slope of 60 degrees was chosen.

The rear edge of the air baffle should be flush with the front edge of the riser tube opening. Its front edge should protrude outward by 20-25 mm. This shelf is needed so as not to litter when cleaning the stove: this design does not allow the use of a grate with a retractable ash pan, and the ash will have to be raked out with a scraper into the tray; its edge is slipped under the shelf. However, the ash rocket oven gives nothing at all.

It is better to make a blower valve with a vertical stroke in grooves with flat springs, a swing door will not provide the proper smoothness of adjusting the furnace mode, and it is more difficult to make a throttle with a rotary damper. The cover of the bunker is bent from galvanization. Complete tightness is not needed here, as long as it fits snugly.

When the furnace metal structure is ready (do not forget to weld the riser pipe and weld the rear of the flame tube!), it is lined with composition 5c with a layer of 10-12 mm, as shown in the diagram. A continuous coating is given only on the bottom. The top and sides of the blower from its front edge to the bunker are left free. Ofuterovav, put to dry.

They are dried by putting on a pole with a blower part. At first, they regularly inspect: if the coating slips, it is removed and a new portion of clay is made fatter and with less water. Do not rely on chance, this is a responsible operation!

Stage 4

The furnace part will dry out soon (2-3 days), and during this time it is quite possible to make a formwork for insulation and lay its bottom layer, because. Level A The adobe has already dried up enough to hold a little weight. The formwork design is clear from Fig. The meaning of what is marked in red will become clear later. Formwork is made of boards or plywood with a thickness of 20-25 mm. It is not necessary to firmly fasten the parts, because. the formwork will then have to be disassembled. Enough staples of thin wire on the outside at the corners; you can just wrap it with duct tape.

The formwork is put in place with the outer edge of the front bar flush with the edge of the bed and exactly along the axis of the future furnace. You need to put it carefully, with measurements, otherwise the details of the furnace will not converge later. From accidental displacement, you can fix it with thin pointed pegs by sticking them from the outside into the adobe. Beacons, on which the lower layer of insulation will be aligned - from any material, but their height must be exactly equal to that of the front formwork bar.

Stage 5

The formwork is filled with a mixture of 5b to level B. The surface of the fill is leveled with a polisher along the beacons and the front bar.

Stage 6

While the insulating pad dries up and the furnace part dries out, we make the riser shell and under the drum. With the shell, everything is simple: either a pipe segment, or we bend it from a thin (1-2 mm) sheet. Both, of course, steel. If the shell is made of sheet, the seam can be folded, a perfect circle is not necessary here.

Note: no need to make a shell below the riser pipe and then round the top of the riser with clay (see below). The stove works better if the gases roll into the downhill with a break.

Under the drum, as can be seen in the diagram, it is inclined. This is necessary for a better swirling of the flow in the secondary ash pan, see below. But if you thought: “Well, now cut an ellipse in an ellipse!”, Then in vain. With a tilt of 10 degrees, the major axis of the ellipse is as much as 304.5 mm, and we need a smaller one, 5-7 degrees.

That is, the outer diameter of the hearth blank (steel sheet 2-3 mm) is 4 mm less than the inner diameter of the drum, and the diameter of the cutout for the shell is 3 mm larger than its outer diameter, and will fall like a native. We will smear the slots along the outer and inner contours (marked with green circles in the diagram) after installing the hearth with clay 5d, bringing the sausages into the fillets with just a finger.

Stage 7

Check if level 5B is completely dry. This can be done by temporarily removing the front formwork bar. If not, we smoke (sorry, we are struggling with nicotine. We drink juice.) for a day or two.

If it is dry, we put the furnace part in the formwork, its coating is probably already dry. It is also necessary to set it exactly along the axis of the furnace, vertically and horizontally, with measurements: the drum and the shell should ultimately be concentric plus or minus 2 mm, and the top of the secondary ash pan (see below) should fit tightly under the upper edge of the drum exit. The front edge of the blower is set flush with the outer edge of the formwork and, accordingly, the bed. At the same time, it will protrude from the insulation to the thickness of the formwork board, which is just enough to smear it with adobe from the outside: the insulation used is effective, but also sensitive to air humidity.

We fix the exposed furnace part with pegs, as well as the formwork. Let them remain in the mass of isolation, it's okay. Now we put additional front shields and fill the formwork to the top with a mixture of 5b, we have reached the level D of the lining. It is no longer necessary to level completely, so as not to hook the bunker that accidentally protrudes from the solution. It is enough to iron with a polisher, leaning on the edges of the formwork, in the area where the drum is located, marked in pale gray on the formwork scheme. But here you need to align to smoothness.

Stage 8

We dry level G. This is also a responsible operation, it is impossible to rely on the microclimate of the room and ordinary drying by natural evaporation outside, the oven will come out bad and short-lived. It is necessary to create more or less stable conditions inside the drying mass.

It's done ordinary light bulb incandescent at 40-60 watts. It (turned on, of course) is thrust into the furnace so that the flask is under the riser pipe. It is only necessary to provide for some kind of mini-tragus under the lamp socket so that the bulb does not touch the metal, otherwise the glass may burst. The top of the G level will dry out enough to withstand further operations while we make the secondary ash pan, see next.

Note: the light bulb will have to burn continuously for a total of approximately 30 days, taking into account further stages of drying. During this time, a 60-watt one will eat 24x30x0.06 \u003d 43.2 kW / h of electricity, and a 40-watt one 28.8 kW / h, which will cost 129 rubles, respectively. 60 kop. and 86 rubles. 40 kop. Whether such an expense is exorbitant is up to you. However, on either side, it is better to take a 40-watt one. Drying will last longer, but it will come out better and less sensitive to the quality of raw materials.

Stage 9

We make a secondary ash pan, or for short, just an ash pan, because. There is no primary in this oven. Here it looks like the same node in the American prototypes. rocket ovens, but fundamentally different from them.

For Americans, an almost laminar flow of gases enters the ash pan through the wide outlet of the drum, and here it twists for deeper cleaning, see next. stage of the installation scheme of the ash pan. The cause of eddies is the rotation of the Earth; more precisely, the Coriolis force caused by it, the same one that spins the water flowing from the bath.

Note: military-historical curiosities. At the end of World War II, the Nazis developed the V-3, an ultra-long-range multi-chamber cannon with a gradual acceleration of the projectile, to bombard London. They punched adits in the rock, assembled the entire system. And then it turned out that the Germans, famous for their thoroughness ... forgot to take into account the rotation of the Earth! All projectiles would have missed. So the V-3 never fired, giving rise only to panic in the Western intelligence services and a wave of myths that has come down to our days. Later, Saddam Hussein ran around with the same idea. He was going to shoot from his desert in Berlin, Paris and the same London. His specialists have already calculated everything accurately and conducted successful experiments on small models. But, again, after all, it turned out that all modern technologies are not capable of creating precision-accuracy gun barrels 200-300 m long. In general, work loves a fool. Even if the fool is smart and knows a lot.

The drawings of the ash pan are shown in fig. Size L is measured from point A (marked in red on the formwork diagram) along the perpendicular (red arrow in the same place) to the edge of the bed. Dimension H - the sum of the formwork heights measured in place and the exit window already cut in the drum (70 mm, if cut accurately). The bevel of the top of the ash pan back is arbitrary within reasonable limits, if only then it would not stick out from under the coating of the drum with adobe.

The immured ash pan box is made of a thin steel sheet or galvanized 0.6-1.2 mm. The front panel (face) is made of steel sheet 4-6 mm, because it can be exposed to the outside and has M5 threaded holes for attaching the cover. Cutout for chimney burrs - along the outer diameter of the existing metal corrugation; 150-180 mm is suitable for this furnace. Its location is arbitrary, you just need to observe the dimensions A, B and C on the drawing of the ash pan. All parts except for the hog are connected by welding with a continuous seam in the same mode as for the skirt of the drum cover. See below for connecting a hog.

The cover of the cleaning hole with a size of 180x180 mm is also made of steel with a thickness of 4-6 mm. The sealing gasket under it is made of mineral cardboard. Mounting bolts - from M5x8 to M5x15 with hexagonal heads. Bolts with any slots should not be used: the ash pan from the inside is overgrown with a thin layer of dense soot. The thickness of its layer will soon stabilize, but the bolts for removing the cover have to be unscrewed with a socket wrench with a knob.

Note: it is undesirable to use a hinged door with a latch - it will not provide tightness forever. You won’t notice this right away, but the appetite will increase at the stove and inside it will begin to overgrow with burning. And you have to open the ash pan for cleaning at most once a year, if the stove is heated with room-dry wood.

Stage 10

It must be assumed that while we were fiddling with the ash pan, the level G had already dried up. You can check it by temporarily removing the formwork wall, as well as level B. If you are ready, we mount the drum and ash pan.

We put the drum tube without the lid in place. We monitor the concentricity of it and the riser pipe, and also so that the exit window is in the right place, see the inset at the top right in the general diagram of the furnace and the diagram in Fig.

We put a little mixture 5b inside the drum and use a spatula to form a wedge from it with an inclination of 5-7 degrees, converging to the exit window. Now we put it in place under, with a stick we press it to the solution. We select the mortar from the cutout under the shell, otherwise you won’t put the shell, the mortar is on rubble. Next, install, slightly turning, the shell. We coat the gaps along the outer and inner contours with clay 5d, as described earlier.

Stage 11

There is no need to wait for the insulation under the bottom to dry, we immediately line the riser. The shell is filled in layers, only in 5-7 layers, with a composition of 5 g (self-dug sand or lean sandy loam). We tamp each layer with a rolling pin with a flat end and spray from a spray bottle until a crust forms. Not reaching 5-6 cm to the top, we form a cork from clay 5d. When it dries, thin cracks form between it, the pipe and the shell, but it's okay: when the furnace is fired, they will soon overgrow with soot of concrete density and strength.

Stage 12

Immediately after mounting the drum, we install an ash pan; We will cover the cleaning hole with a lid later. Its installation is simple: on the lower and large side surface we apply a layer of clay 5d 2-3 mm thick. We insert the ash pan into place, press and press down. Then we coat the contour of the output window of the drum (it is also the input ash pan) on the outside with the same clay 5d. Smear the sausages squeezed inside with your finger into fillets. Do not lose sight of: the edge of the hearth protrudes into the ash pan with a narrow segmental shelf, you also need to form a fillet under it. In general, the transition from the drum to the ash pan must be sealed both inside and outside (green oval on the general scheme of the furnace).

Stage 13

If the level G of the insulation is not completely dry yet, we wait for it to dry. To speed it up, the formwork can already be removed. If so, we also remove the formwork (drying continues, the light in the furnace is still on!) and apply insulation with a 5B solution to level C. We apply it without formwork, with our hands. Manually, without much accuracy, we form a semicircular vault at level B.

Stage 14

Without waiting for level B to dry, we make a formwork along the contour of the bed, as when forming level A, but already to level D. Now we specify its value according to measurements: above the upper edge of the hole for burs in the ash pan should be at least 80 mm. It is also undesirable to do more than 120 mm, the heat transfer of the furnace after heating will be sluggish. For brevity, we will call the new level G G1.

Stage 15

We fill the new formwork with adobe to the lower edge of the hole for burs in the ash pan, on one side. On the other hand, to the lower edge of the exit to the outer chimney. Roughly, with our hands, we level, but you need to make sure that there are no dips, and, accordingly, U-shaped sections of the hog. If you read carefully at first, you will understand that we will be able to lift the hog from the ash pan to the chimney by 10-30 mm. It is necessary for uniform heating of the couch, but sections of the hog inclined downwards are undesirable in any case.

Stage 16

We stretch the prepared corrugation to its full length. We introduce one end of it into the ash pan by 15-20 mm and flare it from the inside with a flat screwdriver through the cleaning door. We coat the outer contour of the input of the hog into the ash pan with clay 5d, as already described.

Further, the beginning of the hog, counting from the ash pan, is covered with adobe for 15-25 cm, it will keep the corrugation from being pulled out during the following operations. Now we lay the burs in a bed with bends, but not coming closer than 100 mm to any edge. As you lay, lightly press down, slightly pressing into the adobe. Having laid, we introduce the far end of the corrugation into the exit hole into the chimney and along the contour, again, coat with clay 5d.

Stage 17

We manually wrap the hogs with adobe so that there are no dips and niches under the bottom of the corrugation. Then we fill the formwork with adobe, smooth its surface with a polisher. If the adobe is thick, heavy, made of greasy clay, roundings can be immediately formed top corners, see the sidebar at the bottom right of the main diagram. It is convenient to do this with a galvanized strip bent by a trough to a quarter of a circle. If the adobe is light, you will have to final finishing dust with a cutter or around the stone.

Stage 18

We put in place, already constantly, the lids of the ash pan and the drum. The lamp in the firebox burns everything, dries! We attach the drum lid with cone-head screws: tightened tightly, they will tightly compress the gasket between the lid and the tube.

Stage 19

We form the adobe coating of the drum, as already mentioned: 1/3 of its top remains free, and counting down from half its height, the adobe layer should be no thinner than 100 mm. For the rest - as God puts it on your soul, here the rocket stove will endure any design.

Stage 20

At the end of drying (this is about 2 weeks), we remove the formwork and round, if necessary, the remaining corners. The last operations before kindling - we paint the drum with heat-resistant enamel at 450 degrees (750 degrees is much more expensive), and cover the bench with acrylic varnish in 2 layers; 2nd after complete drying of the 1st.

The lacquering will not interfere with the stove's breathing, the breath will go through the bedding. But, firstly, the varnish will not allow the adobe to dust. Secondly, it will protect it from accidental moisture ingress. Thirdly, it will give the stove a noble look of glazed clay.

Stage final: rocket launch

In a dry oven, we put it in the grooves, without pushing it, the blower valve (of course, there is no light bulb there anymore), close the lid of the bunker and drown it with paper, straw, shavings, etc., all the while supplying fuel through the blower. When the couch warms up a little to the touch, add more light fuel, and load the standard fuel into the bunker. After waiting for a fairly strong hum of the stove, we cover the blower "to a whisper." That's it, the rocket stove with a stove bench is ready! Now - to the start! That is, in bed.

Finally

There is a direction in balloon-furnace creativity that is still being developed only by smokers, and then somehow: the construction of furnaces from 2 or more cylinders. And from the point of view of heat engineering, his prospects are quite serious.

The old non-autonomous diving equipment was divided into 2 classes according to the number of helmet attachment points: three-bolt with a soft suit for working at a depth of up to 60 m and heavy hard 12-bolt deep-water. The profession of a shallow-water diver had a completely official name - a three-bolt diver. In this regard, it is interesting what hidden meaning the trolls and goblins of Runet would see in the name, well, let's say: "Society of Multi-Cylinder Stove Makers"?

Waste is a cheap fuel that can be used to power a furnace. Waste motor, industrial and transmission oil is available in large quantities at motor transport enterprises and service stations. Instead of being disposed of, used oil can be reused, which saves a lot of money. Heat transfer from used oil is equivalent electric heater at 15 kW. Fuel consumption is 0.5-2 liters per hour. However, here too there are some difficulties. You will learn more about them, as well as how to make a furnace for working out yourself from the article.

Pros and cons of using used oil

Furnaces for mining adopt the principle of direct air heating, and as a result of this use of waste oil, it is possible to heat garages, greenhouses, and workshops. It is best to use such furnaces at car services, because there is no need to look for fuel. It is already at hand in large quantities.

Advantages

when burning oil, there is no burning and soot
ease of operation
fire safety (used oil itself does not burn, only its vapors burn)

disadvantages use of used oil:

used unrefined oil from technical services is not suitable for boilers, because it contains many impurities, water, alcohols, etc.. The use of such unrefined oil will clog the filter, injectors, or even explode in the fuel heating unit. Therefore, used oil must be cleaned and filtered, which is impossible to do at home. Prepared purified waste oil costs about 12 rubles per liter (diesel oil costs from 28.4 rubles per liter).
any car service center and state-owned motor transport enterprises are required to conclude agreements with companies involved in the disposal of used oil. i.e. they pay money in order to get rid of it, then, accordingly, they will not just hand out used oil left and right.
waste oil cannot be kept cold. On the street, it will freeze, so you need to either store the oil in a heated room, or bury the barrel to the depth of freezing of the earth.

Types of furnaces in development

The most popular waste oil furnaces are pyrolysis furnaces and turbo burners. In pyrolysis ovens, the waste oil is heated with a lack of oxygen in the first chamber, where the oil decomposes. The decomposition products burn in the second chamber with a sufficient amount of oxygen, while releasing a large amount of heat. The pyrolysis temperature can be changed by decreasing or increasing the air supply to the pyrolysis chamber. The main disadvantage of such an oven is the need for regular cleaning of fractions accumulating in the chamber, as well as the impossibility of automatically maintaining a certain temperature.

Turbo burners operate on the principle of diesel engines. Oil is sprayed into the chamber and the oil vapors begin to burn. The disadvantage of this type of ovens can be considered high sensitivity to the quality of the oil, as well as the need to warm it up before use.

According to the type of design, mining furnaces are divided into furnaces made from a gas cylinder, blown designs and models with drip fuel supply.

Furnace for mining from a gas cylinder

Materials and tools for the manufacture of the furnace

The easiest way to make a furnace is from used gas, oxygen or carbon balloon. The cylinders have a good wall thickness, so that such a furnace will last more than one year. A heating unit from one cylinder will be able to heat a room up to 90 m 2. Also, this design can be converted for water heating. The stove from the cylinder will not require forced air supply, and the oil will flow by gravity. To prevent the cylinder from heating up to fire hazardous temperatures, it is necessary to set the height of the unit circuit in accordance with the height of the combustion source inside the device. For the manufacture of a furnace from a used cylinder, it is necessary purchase:

chimney pipes with an internal diameter of at least 10 cm, a wall thickness of not more than 2 mm and a length of at least 4 m;
fuel tank with a volume of 8-15 liters;
burner pipes;
welding machine and electrodes;
Bulgarian;
file;
steel corners;
drill and a set of drills;
level and tape measure.

Manufacturing technology

We take a used seamless cylinder for 50 l t up to 1.5 cm thick. If the walls are thicker, then the cylinder will not be warm enough from the inside, and the oil vapor will not evaporate. The boiling point of the oil is approximately 300 0 C, so the chamber will be above 600 0 C. Then you need to get rid of bad smell odorant (leak detection gas) in a gas cylinder. To do this, condensate is drained on the street, and washed several times with water. Then balloon filled to the top with water, placed vertically in a special pallet or buried to a stable position in the ground.

Bulgarian cut off the top of the bottle. After the first cut, water begins to drain into the pan or onto the ground. When it drains the water, you can continue to cut the top. Most of the bottom will serve as a chamber, and the cut off top with a valve will become the stove cover.

We weld from steel corners to the bottom of the cylinder using a welding machine 20 cm "legs" for the stove. Then the balloon is placed on the "legs". In the upper part of the sawn-off lower half of the cylinder, we retreat from above 10-15 cm and, using welding, cut a hole for the main exhaust pipe along the diameter of the pipe.

As an extract, you must select thin-walled chimney with a diameter of at least 10 cm and a length of at least 4 m. We insert it into the hole made, hold it strictly vertically and weld it. In the chimney, you also need to make a small hole, covered with a plate. With it, you can regulate the air supply.

ATTENTION! The chimney must be straight and vertical. No slopes or corners! The length of the chimney must not be less than 4 m.

From the place of welding we step back up 10 cm and do welding machine a small hole with a diameter of 2-3 mm. After 5 mm upwards, we make another hole. In the same way, we make 10 similar holes, the last one should be at a height of 50 cm from the welding site.

In the same pipe, at a height of one meter from the floor, a hole is made for a new pipe with a diameter of 5–8 cm and a length of 2–4 m. The pipe is inserted parallel to the floor and welded together.

A hole with a diameter of 5-8 cm is cut in the cut off upper part of the cylinder. Recycled oil will be poured there.

ATTENTION! In no case should unrefined oil be poured into such a design. It may contain water or alcohols, and if the temperature rises, an explosion and fire may occur. If all this happens in the garage, the consequences can be catastrophic!

At the top of the removable part of the cylinder, you can connect "tray", on which it will be possible to heat a mug of water or porridge. To do this, a square or rectangle is cut out of a steel sheet. not big size and welded to the lid. Or it can be installed on a pipe that is parallel to the floor.

Furnace operation

Waste oil poured for 2/3 cylinder. Then you need to light a sheet of paper, put it on top of the oil and close the stove lid.

After a certain time, the temperature inside the oven will begin to rise, the oil will evaporate and spontaneous combustion of oil vapors.

ATTENTION! Oil must not be poured into an operating furnace. Also, gasoline and kerosene cannot be used as fuel.

After the end of work and cooling of the furnace, it is necessary to clean it of the contents. Remove the accumulated soot from the upper removable part by tapping the lid on the cylinder.

Materials and tools

Very popular among craftsmen from the people are the designs of waste oil furnaces, made from steel sheets. This oven has compact dimensions(70/50/35 cm without chimney), weighs 27 kg, heating can be connected to it, it can be used in the cold, and upper part stoves can be used for cooking. To make such an oven, we need:

steel sheet 4 mm thick
steel sheet 6 mm thick
Bulgarian
file
welding machine and electrodes
a pipe with an inner diameter of 10 cm, a length of at least 4 m and a wall thickness of 4-5 mm for a chimney
steel corners 20 cm high 4 pieces as legs for the oven
drawing
level and tape measure
a hammer
burner pipes made of steel, copper or painted sheet

Stages of manufacturing a furnace from steel sheets

To start, print drawing of the future furnace with details painted on it.

Operation of the furnace in mining

If desired, you can give the oven an aesthetic appearance. For this we do special paint: in liter jar pour half a liter of liquid glass, 200 grams of aluminum powder and 20 grams of chalk. The jar is closed with a lid and shaken vigorously. With this mixture using a regular brush the stove is stained. With the resulting mixture, you can paint three ovens, so the number of ingredients can be safely halved.

In order to use the furnace during working out, certain conditions must be observed. precautionary measures.

do not put in a draft
oven cannot be placed close to flammable objects
around the oven should be half a meter free space
cannot be allowed to get water into the oil, otherwise the boiling oil will begin to splash out through the holes in the pipe
attentively check the chimney for leaks
use as fuel only technical oil

The oven heats up to working condition in 5 minutes. To do this, fill for 2/3 fuel tank and top up with a little gasoline and solvent (20-30 grams). On a long wire, you need to make a burning wick and through the hole for pouring oil set fire to gasoline. It will help the oil to warm up to the right temperature so that the vapors begin to evaporate and ignite. After that, a stable column of flame fed by oxygen is formed in the pipe with holes. The intensity of the flame can be adjusted by the blower hole where the oil is poured.

ATTENTION! Do not leave a running oven unattended!

Waste oil furnace video review

Mining furnaces have a simple design and operate on cheap fuel - waste oil. most stable and safe work can be achieved by constructing a drip oil supply from an external tank. Drip type stoves are easy to make with your own hands from waste materials and scrap metal.

The furnace usually consists of a cylindrical body or has a rectangular shape. The combustion chamber is located inside. In its lower part there is a container for used oil and an air suction hole.

When heated, the oil begins to evaporate, and its vapors mix with the air in the chamber. This mixture rises under the influence of convection up the furnace, where it burns with the release of a large amount of thermal energy.

An air or water heat exchanger can be built into the upper part of the housing, this will allow you to heat the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room more completely and more evenly or mount a hot water supply circuit.
Drip feed is carried out through a metal tube connected to the oil evaporator. The other end of the tube is brought out and connected with flexible hose to the tank.

At the top of the stove is a flue pipe connected to the chimney. The temperature at the top of the furnace, even if equipped with a heat exchanger, is high, so it must be installed with strict fire safety regulations.

It is not recommended to make an open drip oven! The oil may ignite!

Drawings of the furnace for mining with drip irrigation are shown in the figure.

What can be made from?

Thanks to a simple design, a mining furnace with drip oil supply can be made by hand from almost any material: sheet iron, old barrel, gas cylinder. The only condition is that the walls should not be thinner than 4 mm, otherwise the body will lead during the firebox.

A simple and reliable way is to do it yourself. Its body is durable and able to withstand great pressure and heat, and the dimensions are just right for a stove capable of, a workshop or a small private house. Such a furnace for testing, with careful execution, is safe, it is easy to clean and melt. The operation of the furnace is shown in the video.

Watch video: working out furnace

Necessary materials

gas cylinder for 50 liters - used, but without damage to the body;
metal pipe Ø100, with a wall thickness of at least 3.5 m - about two meters;
cuttings of a metal equal-shelf corner 40-50 mm for a heat exchanger, stand and other small parts;
sheet steel 4 mm, you can also use trimmings of a suitable size;
cast iron brake disc from a car;
spent standard size freon cylinder with a working needle valve;
metal pipe ½ inch - about half a meter;
hose suitable diameter, which can be put on a ½ inch pipe and clamps;
½ inch ball valve;
door hinges and a latch for the firebox door.

The air heat exchanger will also require a duct fan and pipes of a suitable diameter. You can use a corrugated pipe or chimney accessories.

Balloon preparation

The gas cylinder, even after prolonged ventilation, contains gas condensate. To remove it, you need to remove the gearbox and valve from it and put it in fresh air for a couple of days.

After that, a hole is very carefully drilled in the bottom of the cylinder. To avoid sparks, the drill must be moistened with oil. Drilling a hole in thick metal is bad, so it's best to start with a smaller diameter drill, and then drill it out to the required size. The result should be a hole with a diameter of 10-16 mm.

The drilled balloon is filled with water and, after soaking for a day, it is drained. The condensate has a sharp and extremely unpleasant odor, so it must be drained carefully and away from residential areas. You can repeat the procedure to rinse the balloon properly.

Furnace body

The balloon is conditionally divided into two unequal parts: the lower one - by 1/3 of the height, and the upper one - by 2/3. Openings are cut in both parts, about a quarter of the circle wide. The openings are shown in the photo.

Cut holes with a grinder, trying to make an even cut - the cut pieces of metal will then be used to make doors.

The interior of the cylinder is once again washed with water under pressure from a hose. This will help to completely wash off the remaining gas condensate.

The oven compartments must be separated by a metal insert. It is cut out with your own hands from 4 mm sheet metal according to the size of the balloon.

This circle forms chamber bottom combustion of oil vapors. As a result, the chamber is large enough, which makes it possible to use a stove for burning wood or briquettes, as well as to burn garbage in it. Try on the bottom in place and adjust it if necessary.

burner do it yourself from a piece of pipe Ø100 mm, length - 20 cm. In it. using a drill and a drill for metal. make holes with a diameter of 10 mm.

The holes are staggered around the circumference approximately to the middle of the burner.
After drilling the holes, the inside of the pipe is carefully ground so that no burrs remain. Soot and soot will settle on them during the operation of the stove.

The burner is installed in the previous part - the bottom of the upper chamber, after which the joint is welded using a welding machine.

The resulting part is installed in place - in the furnace body between the chambers. Put it with the perforated side down. The holes are designed for free air suction.

Pallet for working out, forming the bottom of the lower chamber, do it yourself from an automobile brake disc of a suitable diameter. You can take the used disc. Cast iron is a heat-resistant material, in addition, the design of the disc allows you to make the lower part of the furnace heavier and more stable.

Welded to the bottom of the disk plug, to close the holes. It is cut out of 4 mm sheet metal.

They make it out of it top cover with a hole. The shape of the opening should allow welding the counter part of the burner and leave free access to air.

The bottom of the burner is welded to the lid - a piece of pipe Ø100 mm, length - 10 cm.

A coupling is used to join the parts of the burner. It can be made with your own hands from a pipe Ø100 mm, cut lengthwise and slightly unbent. Coupling necessary in order to make the design of the burner detachable. By lifting it, you can remove the oil pan and clean it, as well as remove soot from the top of the chamber and burner.

Oil supply system

In do-it-yourself drip ovens, oil is supplied from an external tank using a customizable dripper. In the furnace design under consideration, a used freon cylinder is used as a dropper. The main condition is the serviceability of its needle valve.

At the bottom of the cylinder, a hole is cut out of such a size that it is convenient to fill in mining from a canister or other container. You can install a mesh on the filler hole, it will act as a coarse filter. Oil tank should be located above the level of the furnace, so brackets for suspension can be welded to the body. A hose is connected to the cylinder valve with a clamp.

A hole is made in the furnace body, positioning it from the side of the oil tank installation. The diameter of the hole should allow you to fix a half-inch oil supply pipe.

A piece of the desired length is cut from the pipe and a thread is cut at one end, and the other is cut at an angle so as to direct a stream of oil exactly into the opening in the pan.

The pipe is welded to the body. The seam is cleaned.

On the other end of the pipe, equipped with a thread, they wind ball valve. When assembling, a squeegee is connected to the valve with the free end of the oil hose put on it.

heat exchanger

In this furnace, a heat exchanger is an optional element. If you need to heat a small room without partitions, the heat from the walls of the furnace will be enough. But for greater efficiency, it is recommended to make an air or water heat exchanger located in the upper chamber.

As a heat exchanger, a pipe segment Ø100 mm is used so long that its ends extend beyond the body by 10-20 cm on both sides. Two holes are made in the body from opposite sides, into which this pipe is passed. Fix it with welding.

Above the heat exchanger, a flame divider made of sheet iron is welded. It will break the flame into tongues, due to which the heat transfer to the walls and the heat exchanger pipe will increase.

A swirler is installed inside the air heat exchanger. It is necessary to accelerate air flow and better heat removal. It is made from a steel strip or corner, divided into bent blades.

Air ducts are connected to the heat exchanger pipe. They can be made from an uninsulated chimney pipe and corresponding corner elements. On one side, a duct fan is cut into the duct. The fan can be connected to the network directly or through the contacts of the thermal relay by installing it on the fan housing and setting the temperature empirically.

Doors and valves

From the fragments of the cylinder cut off at the first stage, doors are made by welding hinges and a valve to them.

A hole is made on the bottom door to improve air supply. It is more convenient to do it at the bottom.

To seal the top door, stop plates are made of steel strip. They are put on rivets.

The door lock can have absolutely any design, you can do it yourself, since the door is opened infrequently, only to remove soot or when burning the stove with solid fuel.

Chimney and chimney

The smoke pipe from a pipe cut Ø100 mm is welded to the top of the gas cylinder, having previously cut a hole of a suitable diameter. inner surface the flue pipe is cleaned of scale to avoid the deposition of soot.

The chimney is made of a stainless sandwich pipe, assembling it from the necessary elements. It can be removed both through the ceiling and through the wall.

The flue gases in the exhaust furnace have a high temperature, due to which the chimney pipe can burn out! Uninsulated pipe and wall penetrations must not be used to avoid fire!

Video: mini drip oven

Video: Inferno oven, part 1 and part 2

Ignition and operation

Lighting a cold furnace at work is not an easy task. Oil vapors burn only when heated. Therefore, it is necessary to kindle it with the help of other combustible liquids - gasoline, alcohol. They are poured in a thin layer over the oil in the pan and set on fire.

When burning, they heat up upper layer working off, the oil begins to evaporate, and the furnace starts up in operating mode. After that, open the valve on the oil supply hose and adjust its flow to the furnace. To stop the oven, it is enough to close the valve. The fuel supply will stop and as soon as the oil in the pan burns out, the stove will go out.

Cleaning the furnace from soot and soot is done using metal or fine gravel, throwing it into chimney. Passing along the walls of the chimney, the gravel beats off the soot, and it falls into the combustion chamber. Open the door and sweep the soot with a brush. Then they take out the pan, clean out the sediment and fallen soot, gravel and other contaminants from it.

With proper operation and compliance with fire safety, a gas cylinder stove can serve for many years. It is not recommended to install it in a residential area due to the unpleasant smell that accompanies the combustion of mining, but you can install it in a boiler room and. In this case, a drip-type stove can be used to heat a private house.

Among the various designs of heating devices, waste oil furnaces compare favorably with efficiency and affordable cost. The principle of operation and the use of waste fuel makes this heating method unrivaled. This device can be made from the material that is at hand, and it does not require specific knowledge and special tools.

Operating principle

When trying to ignite the used oil, an extremely unpleasant result will be obtained in the form of fumes and an unpleasant odor, which excludes the use of direct combustion of such fuel. In a mining furnace, liquid fuel decomposes when heated, and the decomposition products are already burned. The design of the unit provides for two chambers, which are interconnected by a perforated pipe.

In the lower chamber, the fuel is heated and the vaporization of its components takes place. The resulting volatile substances rise and, passing through the pipe, mix with the oxygen contained in the air. Getting into its upper part, the resulting mixture lights up. Further, the combustion process takes place in the second chamber. During this process, a large amount of thermal energy is released with the formation of an acceptable volume of flue gases.

Furnace for mining from a gas cylinder

For the decomposition of any oils, a more efficient and sophisticated technology. In this case, the lower chamber is equipped with a metal bowl. A drop-like fuel is supplied to its hot surface, which immediately passes into a vapor state. In the process of combustion, a pale blue glow appears, similar to plasma. The name of such devices is a plasma bowl oven.

For achievement maximum efficiency the heater, it is necessary to organize the supply of fuel in as small portions as possible. Ideally, mining comes in the form of drops.

Advantages and disadvantages of working furnaces

The main advantage of furnaces of this design is the use of cheap fuel, which is a waste product. In addition, the mining furnace itself is an economical device, since one liter of oil is sufficient for its operation for an hour. The efficiency of the device is at a high level and is about 75%.

The simplicity of the design of the unit allows you to assemble it from improvised material with minimal skills in working with metal.

The operation of this device does not require much attention. The operation of the furnace occurs without human intervention, it is enough to fill in the fuel and periodically add it.

In the process of burning fuel, soot and smoke are practically not formed. That is, the oven does not pollute the environment and helps in the disposal of environmentally hazardous production waste.

The design is so simple and consists of parts that are not subject to mechanical damage.

Therefore, neither frost nor rough handling of the unit can harm and interfere with its operation.

The mining furnace is characterized by mobility, as it is quickly installed and easily dismantled for further transportation.

Due to the fact that oil is quite difficult to make burn under normal conditions, the device is not capable of causing a fire.

In addition, the possibility of refinement and improvement of the device is a significant plus of the design.

Furnace in development - economically

The disadvantage of waste oil furnaces is the risk of explosion when using fuel contaminated with impurities. Such fuel, at best, will clog the technological holes of the nozzles and clog the filter, so it should be filtered before use.

The design of the chimney and the stove itself implies regular cleaning. In addition, during operation, the device emits a rather strong hum.

Types of homemade stoves

Furnaces for mining are divided into the following types:

made of sheet steel or using a gas cylinder;
supercharged;
with a drip fuel supply system.

The first group of heating devices is the simplest in execution. Their amateur designers, using welding, construct from sheets of metal, pipes and other improvised materials. The use of an old gas cylinder as a furnace blank greatly facilitates the assembly of the structure. In this case, every precaution should be taken to prevent the explosion of residual gas.

To organize the pressurization, the furnace device is supplemented with a fan. This creates an air flow in such a way that most of the air enters the second chamber. This distribution of oxygen supply improves the quality of the fuel combustion process and evenly distributes the heat flow in the heated room.

A drip fuel supply device is difficult to organize in artisanal conditions. As a rule, such units are assembled at specialized enterprises. In the factory, there are opportunities to produce relatively inexpensive, safe and very efficient heating devices that can combine pressurization and oil drip.

Advanced Oil Furnace

The efficiency of waste oil furnaces can be improved by redesigning or adding equipment.

In order to be able to use these furnaces in a heating system equipped with radiators, a water tank is installed on the surface of a heat engineering device. As a result, heat transfer is carried out when the coolant moves through the heating system, which greatly increases the efficiency of the unit.

You can increase the efficiency by installing a fan that provides forced airflow. In this case, the thrust increases significantly and, as a result, the intensity of fuel combustion increases. The fan also contributes to a more intensive movement of air masses, which allows you to increase the heated area.

During the operation of the device, its upper part is heated to a significant temperature. In order for the heat to be efficiently spent, this surface can be used for various domestic purposes, including cooking.

The metal chimney can be replaced with brick building. The device of such a rough will allow you to accumulate energy and use heat even when the stove stops burning.

This is not a complete list of possible upgrades to the furnace in development. For each specific case, you can come up with a way to improve the efficiency of the design, but you should take into account the requirements of safety rules for the operation of such devices.

Sheet metal working furnace

The manufacturing process of such heating device carried out in the following order.

According to the drawing of the selected design of the furnace, parts are marked and cut during mining.

Drawing

First, the lower part of the chamber is built, which will be connected to the fuel tank. In shape, it looks like a rectangular or rounded tank, which is equipped with two pipes. The first of them is necessary for supplying fuel, and the second for connecting to the pipe of the middle part. Before assembly, all elements are carefully cleaned and subsequently connected by welding.

The bottom is connected to the walls of the tank. Corners are also welded to them, which will serve as supports.

Holes are made in the part from which the cover will be created. One of them is located in the center and has a diameter of 100 mm, and the other with a diameter of 60 mm is at the edge. To simplify the maintenance of the device, it is recommended to make the cover removable.

The pipe that supplies the air is 370mm long and 100mm in diameter and has evenly spaced holes.

The pipe is fixed to the bottom of the unit perpendicular to the surface of the cover. This design involves an air damper device, which is fastened with bolts or rivets. The hole has a size of 60 mm. With its help, fuel is supplied and ignited.

The upper part of the structure is assembled in a similar way to the technology described above. It is recommended to choose a pipe with a diameter of 350 mm as a blank for this part.

A hole is created at the bottom of this element with an offset to the edge, the diameter of which is 100 mm. A 110 mm long pipe is welded to it, which is necessary for connection to the combustion chamber.

The upper part of the heating device is exposed to high temperatures, so a thick sheet (at least 6 mm) should be used for its construction. To install the chimney, it is necessary to cut a hole in the lid.

After that, install and fix the chimney. To increase the rigidity of the structure, a spacer is installed between the chambers.

In conclusion, the product is painted with a special coating with heat-resistant properties.

Furnace for mining from a gas cylinder

The assembly of the waste oil furnace design follows the algorithm described below.

Before starting work, prepare the site and the necessary materials.

Furnace in production

The legs on which the product will stand are made of metal corner welded to the body.

The used cylinder serves as the body of the furnace.

The workpiece is installed vertically and holes with a diameter of 100 mm are cut in its upper part for mounting the exhaust pipe. It must be at least 4 meters long.

A hole is cut out in the pipe, which is equipped with a movable damper. Such a device is necessary to regulate the air supply. When installing a chimney, strictly adhere to vertical position this part, which will prevent the accumulation of soot. After that, the structure is welded.

With an indent of 100 mm from the weld, a hole is made, the diameter of which is 2-3 mm. Then, having risen 5 mm higher, another hole is drilled. Further, the procedure is repeated until ten holes are obtained through which air will enter the furnace.

To install another pipe, a hole with a diameter of 60-70 mm is cut out in the side of the cylinder. It is inserted horizontally and welded to the body.

In the upper part of the cylinder, previously cut off from it, an opening with a size of 100 mm is made, which is necessary for filling fuel and igniting it.

Finished furnace for mining from a gas cylinder

Safety measures during manufacture and operation

For trouble-free operation of the furnace on waste oil, the following recommendations should be followed.

Installation of the heating device is required to be carried out on a surface made of non-combustible material. Walls located in the immediate vicinity of the unit must be finished with heat-resistant materials.

To avoid fire, do not install the device in a draft.

It is not allowed to place objects that can easily ignite near the stove.

Recycled oil must be purified from impurities.

At the moment of intense burning of the flame, it is not allowed to top up the oil.

When igniting the device, the capacity of the fuel tank must be filled to two thirds of the volume. For creating favorable conditions To ignite the fuel, small amounts of thinner or gasoline are added on top of the oil.

Ignition is carried out by a burning wick, which is directed into a hole designed for pouring fuel.

Among the options autonomous heating premises, the most interesting can be called a special type of potbelly stove, which uses used oil. Doing it yourself is not difficult, since the design is relatively simple, and the tools and materials necessary for work are quite affordable. During the operation of the unit, special problems also usually do not arise. The main advantage, of course, is savings, because what can be cheaper than used oil?

The principle of operation of such a stove

In such stoves, the combustion process occurs twice, that is, it will be necessary to equip two combustion chambers. In the first chamber, the used oil burns slowly, and combustible vapors are formed. They enter the second chamber, where they mix with air. This gas-combustible mixture burns in the second chamber, and releases a significant amount of heat, heating up to very high temperatures.

In a do-it-yourself waste oil furnace, combustion processes occur at a fairly high temperatures. The unit is considered quite safe, but it is not recommended to put it in a draft

In order for a homemade waste oil stove to work correctly, it is necessary to provide air supply to both the first and second chambers. Where mining is burned, a control damper is needed, since the amount of air entering here should be moderate. To provide air to the second chamber, usually a series of holes about 10 mm in diameter are made in the pipe connecting these two sections.

Autonomous heating can be provided by assembling a waste oil boiler. Detailed installation instructions can be found in our following material: .

Types of homemade structures

According to the type of construction of the furnace, mining can be divided into three types:

home-made units made of sheet metal or a gas cylinder;
supercharged structures;
drip fuel models.

The first option is a very simple device that craftsmen who have the skills to work with a welding machine make on their own. To do this, use a sufficiently thick sheet metal, metal pipes etc. The use of a gas cylinder can significantly reduce the operating time. There may well be gas residues in an already used cylinder. When cutting off the upper part, there is a danger of a small explosion. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended to pump water into the cylinder and only after that begin dismantling.

For a forced-air oven, you will need to install an additional fan. This is done in such a way that the main air flow falls on the second chamber. This ensures high-quality combustion of the fuel, and also contributes to the uniform and rapid distribution of the resulting heat throughout the room.

Depending on the design, the waste oil furnace can use conventional convection, an air heat exchanger or water heating in a boiler

Making your own drip fuel supply is quite difficult. Typically, industrial models are completed with such an element. This allows you to significantly save the consumption of used oil. Industrial units are efficient, compact, safe and relatively inexpensive. However, there are also homemade models, combining and drip system oil supply, and boost.

You may also find it useful to read an article about the features of arranging heating at work:.

Making a stove from a gas cylinder

Making a sheet metal oven is not difficult. To do this, two combustion chambers are brewed, legs are attached to the bottom. Then they are connected by a pipe with holes, a vertical chimney is mounted on the upper combustion chamber, etc. However, all these operations require rather lengthy welding work. To reduce them, craftsmen successfully use gas cylinders. These containers have sufficiently thick walls to ensure both the fire safety of the structure and long term its operation.

Regardless of whether a cylinder or sheet metal is used to make a furnace, a number of rules should be followed when creating a structure. They need to be taken into account when figuring out how to make a waste oil furnace.

The air supply to the first combustion chamber must be made adjustable. For this, a conventional damper is suitable, which can be slightly opened to leave a gap of arbitrary size.
The chamber into which waste oil is fed for burning is always made collapsible so that it can be easily cleaned.
The chimney must be strictly vertical, horizontal or inclined sections are not allowed.
To ensure good draft, the length of the chimney must be at least four meters.

Exist various options the use of a cylinder in the manufacture of a furnace for testing. The simplest one looks like this:

From the cylinder you need to cut off the upper and lower parts.
From the resulting halves, a collapsible combustion chamber for oil is made.
Metal legs are welded to the bottom.
A hole is made in the upper part of the first chamber, into which a piece of pipe with an adjusting plate is mounted. Through this opening, a regulated air flow will be supplied, as well as fuel.
A hole is also made in the center, to which a pipe segment is welded connecting both combustion chambers.
A series of air holes are made in this pipe.
A secondary combustion chamber is made from the middle part of the cylinder and sheet metal, which is also welded to the connecting pipe.
At the last stage, a chimney is made and installed.

To easily place the oven in the correct position on uneven surface, it is recommended to make legs that can be adjusted in height.

This is the easiest way to use a gas cylinder to create such a heater. The following diagram shows a more complex garage stove for testing. It uses a gas cylinder, while a pressurization system and drip fuel supply are installed.

This is a variant of the manufacture of a rather complex furnace for testing from a gas cylinder, which takes into account the possibility of organizing pressurization, and a drip fuel supply system is installed

For heating small rooms, you can build a potbelly stove that will last more than one year:.

Although the device is not complex, it is still recommended to follow a number of rules when using it:

To prevent oil from splashing out of the combustion chamber, do not fill the tank more than two-thirds.
If the hot mining “boils” after ignition, reduce the air supply using the control damper.
In order to maintain sufficient draft, both the oil tank and the chimney should be cleaned of dirt weekly.
To remove soot, the upper part of the structure must be tapped.

Working furnaces are well-deservedly popular with car owners, as well as at service stations, in small car services, etc. With their help, you can successfully heat small and medium-sized rooms.

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Finally

Pros and cons of using used oil

Types of furnaces in development

Furnace for mining from a gas cylinder

​ Materials and tools for the manufacture of the furnace

Manufacturing technology

Furnace operation

Materials and tools

Stages of manufacturing a furnace from steel sheets

Operation of the furnace in mining

Waste oil furnace video review

What can be made from?

Necessary materials

Balloon preparation

Furnace body

Oil supply system

heat exchanger

Doors and valves

Chimney and chimney

Ignition and operation

Operating principle

Advantages and disadvantages of working furnaces

Types of homemade stoves

Advanced Oil Furnace

Sheet metal working furnace

Furnace for mining from a gas cylinder

Safety measures during manufacture and operation

The principle of operation of such a stove

Types of homemade structures

Making a stove from a gas cylinder

What else to read

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