How to reduce humidity in the underground. Dampness in the house - causes

Dampness in the cellar is a huge problem for most summer residents and suburban residents. As a rule, humidity rises due to poorly made heat or waterproofing, as well as due to a large number vegetables and fruits stored indoors. In some cases, condensation forms due to the lack of a ventilation system. Whatever the reason, a wet cellar is in no way suitable for storing food in it, which, with constant exposure to moisture, will quickly deteriorate. That is why moisture must be removed and completely eliminated from such a phenomenon as condensate. We will talk today about how to dry the cellar and properly prepare it for laying the crop.

Carrying out preparatory work

Humidity in the cellar, as a rule, is at a high enough level, so condensation forms on the walls and ceiling. Preparatory work include the complete release of the premises from the vegetables stored there since last year (they are no longer suitable for consumption, so it is best to remove them from the storage).

In addition, it is recommended to temporarily get rid of the wooden elements of the room (racks, pallets, various bins, boxes, shelves, etc.). All wooden structures take it outside and then rinse hot water and soapy water. They must be completely dry before further use.

Before dehumidifying the air in the storage, all supplies and products from there should be taken out.

Fairly common and effective method disinfection of the wooden elements of the storage - applying a layer of whitewash with the addition of ordinary blue vitriol. As a whitewash, as a rule, ordinary lime acts, which can be found on sale in any store. Humidity and condensation in this case will not affect the wood.

In addition, in order to protect wooden elements from mold and fungus, it is necessary to apply antiseptic impregnation on them. You can use any composition sold in the store.

The walls and ceiling of the vault can also be whitewashed and dried later. Otherwise, due to increased dampness in the room, it will not be possible to keep the crop in the proper form. In the fall, when it rains continuously, it will not be possible to dry the cellar qualitatively, so all work should be carried out in the summer.

How is storage drying?

In order to get rid of excess moisture in the cellar, it is not enough just to open all the ventilation holes and the manhole cover. In the cellar, the air will systematically cool down, and the moisture from it will condense, so it will not work to dry the underground room with ordinary ventilation. Air humidity and condensate, even after several days of keeping the vault with the hatch open, will not go anywhere. To dry the cellar before the seasonal laying of the crop, you should use more radical methods.

There are several of the most common ways in which the drying of the room is carried out. Humidity and condensation are a big problem, but with forced drying, they are easy to get rid of.

So, you can remove excess dampness, humidity and condensate in the following ways:

• Drying the cellar or vegetable store with iron stove.
• Drying the basement using a brazier.
• Using the most common candles that will improve natural draft air.
• The use of special dehumidifiers.

It should be noted that heating the storage with an iron stove is extremely time-consuming and troublesome, so it is recommended to abandon this method immediately. And not everyone has the opportunity to install such a stove in storage. It is better to use the remaining three methods, since it is important to dry the cellar quickly and without unnecessary hassle.

Fast drying with a roaster

Put away excess moisture air and condensate from the cellar can be done using the simplest brazier. This device is not large sizes(portable) is in almost any suburban economy. In any case, you can ask your neighbors.

The brazier quickly heats up the air in the room.

Before drying the cellar with a brazier, it is necessary to partially get rid of excess dampness with the help of natural drying within a few days. In this case, the brazier will only “finish off” the remaining dampness, humidity and condensate.

If you did not find a suitable device for drying or a brazier, then you can make it yourself from the simplest old bucket.

The drying process itself is as follows:

• Before drying, we open all the holes that go to the cellar (manhole, ventilation pipes).
• Next, we lower our brazier (bucket) to the bottom of the storage. You can do it yourself or with a rope and a hook.
• We kindle a fire in the brazier. It must be maintained for some time until the damp air completely leaves the room.
• According to the laws of physics, warm and dry air from the bottom of the cellar will gradually rise, displacing damp air into open holes. After some time, the cellar will dry out completely.

The principle of drying the basement using a brazier from an ordinary bucket.

Before drying the cellar in this way, it is necessary to provide for some nuances:

1. To ignite the brazier, it is recommended to use sawdust and wood chips. As soon as the fire breaks out, larger wood can be thrown into the brazier. It is important that the brazier is ignited before you lower it to the bottom of the cellar.
2. The heat from the fire will quickly warm up the room, bringing damp air out. In turn, dry air will quickly spread through the cellar. It is necessary that the whole room is saturated with smoke. This will get rid of any biological activity in the storage, which also negatively affects the storage of vegetables and fruits. The effect of heating the air in this case will persist for a long time.

However, the condensate in the cellar does not always disappear immediately after drying, so you need to wait a bit and, if necessary, repeat the event, as well as check the quality of the ventilation system.

Drying the cellar with a candle

If you don't feel like messing around with the brazier, there's an easier way to keep your cellar dry and damp. To do this, you need the most ordinary candle.

The candle must be placed under the exhaust pipe.

A lit candle, placed under the exhaust duct, will increase the air draft, and also allow you to get rid of dampness. It will take much longer to dry the cellar with a candle than with a brazier, but if you have nowhere to rush, then this method can be used without problems.

When using the candle drying method, it is required to increase the length of the ventilation pipe (inlet if two pipes are used). This must be done. Further, a lit candle is installed directly under the inlet of the exhaust pipe. The candle is best placed in a small container (for example, in a jar).

To give a certain impulse, which will become the beginning of air draft, it is necessary to set fire to a paper sheet in the exhaust pipe. Next, the thrust will be maintained by a candle flame.

It has already been noted above that this is a slow drying method and it can be used if you have enough time. All work on drying the cellar is best done a few days before harvesting, so that the room has time to warm up, dry out and get rid of all biological activity. With the help of a lit candle, you can dry the cellar in 3-4 days. During this time, you will have to change a few candles.

If the cellar is large, then getting rid of dampness and humidity with a candle will not work.

Air dryers

Since it is difficult to dry a large cellar with improvised means, for effective disposal from moisture, special dehumidifiers are used. These devices allow you to dry the room qualitatively, and then maintain the humidity indicator at a normal level. It is advisable to dry the air in the cellar periodically.

Appearance and scheme of operation of the dehumidifier.

Dehumidifiers are especially relevant in the commercial operation of basements and vegetable stores. Modern dehumidifiers are sold in large hardware stores, as well as in specialized departments, so there will be no problems with their purchase. For information on how to dry a cellar with a dehumidifier, it is best to ask a sales assistant who will be able to advise a model suitable for your room.

The principle of drying stagnant and damp air in the basement is that moisture always condenses on cold surfaces. The air passing through a conventional dehumidifier is cooled, and the moisture settles in a special receiver, after which it drops into a drip tray. Dehumidifiers work on the principle of cooling the air, not heating it (unlike a brazier and a candle), so the appliance will cool the cellar to some extent. However, on sale you can find such devices that at the outlet will heat the air to its original temperature.

Modern dehumidifiers work on the basis of freon (like refrigerators and air conditioners). The air will enter the dehumidifier with the help of a fan. If your home also has humid air, then a basement dehumidifier is fine for use in other areas of the building as well.

Which method to choose?

You can make the cellar absolutely dry and suitable for storing fruits and vegetables using any of the proposed methods. One or the other method should be chosen based on total area your cellar. For example, there is no need to buy an expensive dehumidifier if your cellar does not exceed 2 square meters. m. In this case, the problem of humidity is easily solved with the help of a brazier or a candle.

It will be possible to lower fruits and vegetables into the cellar immediately after all work on drying the premises is completed. It should be noted that it is not recommended to dry the cellar additionally during operation. This approach will negatively affect the quality of stored vegetables.

In order to avoid the need to often dry the cellar, it is necessary to foresee the presence of a high-quality ventilation system in advance. For small cellars, a design of two pipes (supply and exhaust) located on different height. They will provide continuous replacement of air. If the cellar has large area, a forced ventilation device is recommended. In addition, if it is the floor of a dwelling, it will be necessary to make high-quality thermal insulation of the floor. The cold air from the storage should not be allowed to affect the microclimate in the house.

When building a house, garage or any other outbuilding, many homeowners prefer houses with a basement. This is extremely convenient, because it appears extra space for storing various useful things, and if you're lucky, you can equip, for example, a workshop here.

However, construction is often carried out according to an “economical” project or with a violation of technology, as a result of basement a terrible and destructive enemy appears - moisture. She gradually undermines the structure, and her constant companion - mold fungus- spoils not only appearance and takes part in the destruction, but also has a significant harm to human health. The question arises, how to remove dampness in the basement?

Three reasons for dampness in the basement

Naturally, it is simply necessary to deal with all this, and first you need to find out the root of the problem. So, where can water and condensate come from in the basement, consider the main causes of dampness in the basement:

• capillary through walls, ceiling, floor;
• direct way through the cracks;
• condense from the air due to lack (or insufficiency) of ventilation.

Now that the enemy has been identified, you can proceed directly to the fight. Yes, before proceeding to work, the water from the basement, of course, must be pumped out and the room well ventilated, and, if possible, dried with a heat gun (fan, hair dryer).

Getting rid of cracks and capillary water in the basement

Cracks and cracks - the source of moisture in the basement

To do this, carefully check all surfaces for the presence of large and small cracks. It may be necessary to completely or partially dismantle the heat-insulating coating of the walls, ceiling, remove the floor covering. Having found the place of violation of integrity, we carefully close it. Then we produce waterproofing works. These works are divided into: internal (floor, ceiling, walls) and external.

Outdoor waterproofing

First you need to check the entire building from the outside, because very often the reason that the basement is flooded or simply damp is that the drainage system around the house is simply stupidly equipped.

It includes:

• • slopes on the roof, windows, above the porch;
  • downspouts of "directional action", that is, draining water into the funnel of an underground storm drain, or at least into an above-ground gutter;
  • drainage system around the walls of the house;

If all these components or at least part of them are absent, then this drawback must be eliminated. You should start from the top, that is, from the slopes and downpipes.

Now you can move on to the next step: protecting the underground part of the outer walls. For this:

1. We remove the old blind area.
2. Digging a hole a little more than half a meter wide beyond the outer walls of the basement (so that you can get into it and carry out work).
3. Dry thoroughly the outer wall of the house (natural or forced).
4. Coating the wall antifungal compounds (the choice in building stores is simply endless).
5. Coating the wall(possible with clay, concrete based on liquid glass or with additives that reduce moisture absorption);
6. Optional step: making an underground from a sheet of ruberoid. To do this, we fix it on the wall of the house 0.5 meters above the ground level and take it over the edge outer wall basement.
7. We fill the hole.
8. We equip the blind area(you can use any kind soft roof).

If serious excavation you can’t afford, then you can get by for the first time with only the last item. At the same time, a soft roof sheet should partially go onto the wall of the building (somewhere by 50–70 cm), and it is important to fix it well, for example, with the same bitumen. The second edge should go beyond the edge of the underground basement wall by the same 50–70 cm.

Internal basement waterproofing

To get rid of dampness in the basement, you must:

1. Good first.
2. Get rid of crumbling coatings.
3. Clear cracks.
4. Seal them with cement mortar.
5. Soak the walls with an antifungal drug;
6. Lubricate everything with a waterproofing solution (the simplest is bituminous mastic).

Pressure leaks, as well as their former places, must be very carefully repaired, for example, with alabaster.

To enhance the effect, you can plaster the walls completely or only partially 0.5–1 meter from the floor. But this step is not mandatory.

You can also make new walls from moisture-resistant material, in large basements they often build a new brickwork. Between old and new wall there should be a distance of at least 3 cm. It is important to drill holes between the old and new walls so that the air from the basement exits into the outdoor vents, and also so that moisture does not accumulate between the walls.

Dampness in the basement can also provide the old floor, even if it concrete screed. To remedy the situation, it is necessary to remove the decorative floor covering, close up all the cracks in the concrete, if any. Then wait until everything dries, cover it with sand or expanded clay - the layer should be about 5 cm, and then lay the roofing material or other waterproof durable material. After processing bituminous mastic you can make a new screed or lay logs, and on them - a plank floor.

Ventilation

Internal ventilation in the basement is a must. At the same time, it should be precisely the supply and exhaust. The most simple circuit: two pipes, one of which goes almost from the very floor of the basement and goes out under the ceiling, the second is located under the ceiling and also leads outside. The outer parts of the pipes must be protected from the ingress of melt and rain water.

Fighting mold fungus

The two main enemies of mold are oxygen and dryness. The first we have already provided by arranging good ventilation. If for some reason this is not possible, then the basement should be ventilated as often as possible, but remember that the fungus will definitely return. The second can be provided by drying (industrial hair dryer, heat gun, heater). After drying, you can proceed to the treatment of walls, floors and ceilings with antifungal compounds.

If you have a rather old building, and cracks still appear in the basement from time to time (in the corners, between bricks), then as a temporary measure, you can plug them with rags smeared with bituminous mastic and plaster them on top.

In the basement, where you need to pump out water, it is worth organizing a pit- waterproof "glass" made of metal, concrete with waterproofing or other similar material. We will already pump water out of it with a pump.

The floor in the basement should be at an angle, even if small, directed to one corner. In this corner is a pit. Then all the water will collect where we can easily fight it.

Express method for removing moisture and dampness in the basement

For quick release from humidity, it is necessary to organize the collection of moisture with a hydrophilic substance (excellently absorbent). To do this, we take a board, put it at an angle in a bucket, sprinkle the board with hydrophilic powder (lime, alum, and so on). This method allows you to perfectly maintain dryness in the basement in the absence of the owners.

Blitz for the fastest

Briefly, all methods of dealing with dampness in the basement:

1. We carry out external waterproofing works (rainfall, coating the outer walls with bitumen, arranging the blind area)
2. We remove mold.
3. We produce repair work to eliminate cracks.
4. We make new waterproofing.
5. Set up ventilation.

Having done all of the above, you can be sure that your home will be insured against the appearance of such an extremely undesirable phenomenon as dampness and mold, which can affect not only the basement, but also living quarters.

To get rid of dampness, you need to conduct a series preparatory activities. Understand why it appeared, where moisture oozes from and how you can fix it. You will learn about all this from our article.

Dampness is a very unpleasant phenomenon that can destroy the crop stored for storage. If moisture "settles" in the room, this can lead to the destruction of the structure and the deterioration of the health of everyone who regularly descends into the cellar or basement. About why dampness "comes to visit" and how to get rid of it as soon as possible - read our material.

Dampness in the house - causes

Condensation forms on ceilings, floors and walls for a number of reasons. The most common causes of dampness are the following factors:

ventilation problems. Errors at the design or construction stage lead to the fact that ventilation is disturbed in the room. The most common mistake is poorly laid floor slabs and construction garbage block ventilation ducts;

With a temperature difference between inside and outside the room, condensation forms on the windows and walls, and this is the first sign that mold will soon appear.

groundwater level rise. In spring and autumn, when basements and cellars begin to flood due to heavy rains, dampness also becomes more active. Poor drainage leads to the fact that water accumulates in underground storages, the level of humidity rises sharply, and the room turns into an eternally damp closed system;

capillary penetration of moisture from the soil or through cracks. If the foundation was erected in violation of technology, then after some time, due to temperature changes, droplets of moisture will appear on its inner walls. Over time, this can lead to partial damage to the walls and even their collapse.

Mold spores can cause many dangerous diseases including cancerous tumors

Why is dampness dangerous?

The appearance of condensation and characteristic bad smell These are just the first signs of impending trouble. Condensation causes the following effects:

mold and fungus appear; temperature regime and the level of humidity in the room; microorganisms harmful to humans multiply; walls, ceilings and ceilings are constantly waterlogged.

Because of what the finish suffers; the destruction of the foundation, walls and ceilings begins.

Concrete surfaces and tiles are most often attacked by molds.

How to get rid of moisture

First of all, all summer residents are concerned about the question of how to remove dampness. There are several reliable ways to eliminate dampness in the cellar and basement, but first you need to find out what caused the appearance excess moisture. To do this, carefully inspect the room:

• if water droplets appeared on the walls and ceiling, the reason is in violation of ventilation;
• puddles on the floor indicate an increase in the level of groundwater;
• drops only on the walls hint at the lack of basement waterproofing.

Now let's take a closer look at ways to eliminate each of the causes.

How to improve ventilation

If the air exchange in the room is disturbed, the easiest way is to improve it by organizing additional ventilation. Basement ventilation is of two types:

natural - involves the use of the so-called. "vents" - holes around the perimeter of the building. Their total area should be about 1/400 of the total area of ​​the building; forced - involves the use of special equipment that forcibly pumps Fresh air. Usually used in large rooms.

Installing forced ventilation is an expensive pleasure

To get rid of condensation on the ceiling and walls, you can carry out the following procedures:

thermal insulation engineering networks . If you have communications in the basement - plumbing and sewer pipes- the temperature of the water in them is always higher than the temperature in the room. As a result, condensation forms on them. To get rid of heat loss, you need to use a protective sheath of mineral wool, foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Organization of the hood. For additional ventilation of the room, install ventilation ducts or pipes. Usually they are attached to vertical load-bearing elements or attached to existing structures. Two pipes are installed in the room - exhaust and supply, placing them at different heights from the floor in opposite corners of the room. This is necessary in order for draft to appear and the room to be purged.

Lowering of the groundwater level

If they enter the premises ground water- this is a serious problem, which over time can lead to a partial collapse of the building. In this case, it is necessary to carry out a number of additional measures aimed at strengthening the foundation and pumping out groundwater.

In particular, you will need to do the following:

• dig the foundation
• organize drainage around the perimeter of the building;
• strengthen the foundation; arrange external and internal waterproofing;
• make a blind area around the perimeter of the building;
• dry the room.

Only qualified specialists can carry out the entire complex of works on the removal of groundwater.

How to get rid of capillary moisture

If moisture forms on the walls of a building, it means that it penetrates from external environment namely, from soil. To prevent its access to the premises, you can use some of the most popular measures:

use of waterproofing materials- primarily roofing material, linocrom and hydroisol. All of them are made from pieces of dense material impregnated with bitumen. The cellar or basement is pasted over both from the outside and from the inside;

protective compounds, which clog pores in concrete, are also considered an excellent "cure" for capillary moisture;

Thanks to these compositions, it is possible to organize both a point effect on the holes through which moisture oozes, and application to all problem areas.

bituminous mastic and polymer resins use for additional protection walls and floors from condensation. These compounds can be applied independently, but they do not always provide required level protection and it is better to supplement them with waterproofing materials;

shielding applied in particular difficult cases when, simultaneously with capillary action, groundwater appears in the room. Protective shields are made of geotextile, concrete or clay.

With capillary penetration, moisture from the floor evaporates and settles on the walls

Basement or cellar exterior waterproofing

Inspect the structure and check the condition of the slopes, downpipes, drainage system and blind areas. If you, in principle, do not have a drainage system, then first start by installing downpipes and slopes. Next, proceed to the protection of the outer walls:

• remove the old blind area;
• dig a hole about 50 cm wide from outer wall basement;
• dry the outer wall;
• apply an antifungal composition to it;
• coat the wall with bituminous mastic, clay or concrete with liquid glass additives;
• make a blind area from a sheet of roofing material - fix it 0.5 m above the ground level and take it out of the edges of the outer wall of the basement;
• fill in the hole.

External insulation can be supplemented with a drainage system

Internal basement waterproofing

After performing outdoor work, it is also possible to insulate the basement or cellar with inside. It is done like this:

• dry the room;
• remove all loose coatings and whitewash;
• find and clear all cracks;
• soak the walls with an antifungal drug;
• apply a waterproofing compound;
• if desired, plaster the walls at a height of 0.5-1 m from the floor.

Instead of applying plaster, you can treat the walls with a waterproofing compound

Floor work to eliminate dampness

If moisture penetrates the walls, hits the floor and evaporates, you should also deal with flooring. The floor and walls should be concreted using liquid glass and only.

You can also follow simple algorithm(in the event that you have a clay floor):

• remove a layer of clay about 5 cm thick;
• level the floor surface and cover it with two layers of waterproofing film;
• sprinkle it on top with clay or fill it with concrete and level the surface.

Use only putty on cement base, since their gypsum counterparts actively absorb moisture

When seasonal flooding of the site use another method:

• lay a layer of sand or gravel about 10 cm thick on the floor to protect against groundwater flooding. Add more gravel if necessary if groundwater seeps through the drainage layer;
• apply a special waterproofing plaster to the walls;
• arrange in the corners of the cellar glass jars with calcium chloride (it will absorb excess moisture). For one cellar, no more than 0.5-1 kg of powder is required;
• sprinkle the floor quicklime 1 cm layer - it will absorb excess moisture and dry the room. To combat fungus and mold, you can slake lime right in the basement. Pour some lime into an empty container and fill it with water. The vapors released will destroy germs and mold.

During the release of lime vapor, it is better to leave the room. Go back there in an hour and immediately organize airing for several hours.

Folk methods of dealing with dampness

You can normalize the level of humidity in the cellar using folk remedies:

dry the walls of the cellar with clay bricks. Place in different angles basement 2-3 bricks heated on a fire. As they cool, they begin to absorb moisture. To achieve maximum effect, they can be reused; to get rid of mold, treat the walls of the cellar with vinegar or boric acid(dilute 20 ml of acid in 1 liter of water), you can use citric acid(dissolve 100 g of powder in 1 liter of water); take out all the products stored there from the basement or cellar and treat the damp walls with diesel fuel, and then whitewash them.

Elimination of dampness and mold is a rather laborious process. Therefore, you need to take care of the organization of drainage and waterproofing in advance, then you won’t have to deal with high humidity. What are some ways to deal with dampness?

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A basement or cellar aspires to have any owner country house, cottages or even a garage. Without an underground room, it is difficult to preserve vegetables, fruits and other gifts of the earth. But often it appears high humidity, walls and ceiling are covered with condensate, which causes a lot of trouble.

The easiest way to determine the humidity rate for the basement is to look at the instructions for home refrigerator. The humidity limits for it and the basement are approximately the same: usually it is 85-95%. If your basement meets these standards, you can find out with a hygrometer.

Hygrometer shows the level of humidity in the room

You can do without this device:

Fill a glass with water and refrigerate overnight.

Then take it to the basement.

Under the influence of warmer outside air, the walls of the glass will fog up and humidity can be determined from them: if after some time the walls dry out, then the humidity is lowered, it remains foggy - normal, large drops form and water flows down in streams - increased.

Whether the humidity in the basement is increased can be determined using a glass cold water

An increase in humidity in the basement or cellar can be noticed by various signs - condensation drops on the walls and ceiling, wet floors and Bottom part walls, heavy air in the room. This poses a serious problem:

the appearance of mold and fungus that cause respiratory diseases;

spoiled lovingly harvested crop(pathogenic bacteria multiply better in humid environment);

gradual destruction of the walls, which leads to impressive financial costs for repairs.

Why does dampness and condensate appear in the basement

Before you begin to fix the problem, you need to find out the cause of its occurrence.

If the ventilation system is not designed correctly, humid air is not removed from the room or enters it from the outside. Even crops stored in the basement give off some moisture that needs to be removed.

Nearby groundwater rises during the off-season and penetrates through walls and floors. Moreover, the entry of moisture from the outside is possible through any walls: wooden, brick, concrete.

An earthen floor without waterproofing can cause dampness: moisture freely penetrates from the soil into the basement.

No vapor barrier between upper rooms and basement. If there is a room with high humidity at the top, it will inevitably penetrate into the basement.

A lot of trouble causes the appearance of condensation on the walls and ceiling. The reason for its formation is the so-called dew point. In contact with cold surfaces, water vapor condenses into droplets and settles in the form of dew. in winter outdoor temperature much lower than the inner one, due to which the walls freeze through. In summer, the opposite is true, and dew forms on cold walls and ceilings when it penetrates warm air outside. In spring and autumn, condensation appears much less frequently. The reason may also be a sharp change in temperature and insufficient thermal insulation of the walls and ceiling.

Condensation indicates high humidity and poor ventilation.

Ways to get rid of high humidity

First you need to find the source of the problem and fix it:

Inspect the blind area around the building, gutters and pipes for draining rain and melt water. Repair or replace if necessary.

Carefully inspect the walls, floor and ceiling. Seal cracks, crevices and joints between the plates.

If no problems are found, check ventilation.

How to organize adequate ventilation in the room

This system is installed in the basement or cellar during construction.

For the correct flow of air in opposite corners of the room, two pipes with a diameter of at least 125 cm are placed: one - at a distance of 10–50 cm from the floor (through it air will flow from the outside), the second - at a distance of 10 cm below the ceiling (through it there will be hood).

Outside, umbrellas are installed on the pipes so that rain and debris do not get inside. The exhaust pipe should be higher, it is painted black to improve solar heating and increase traction. It will also be useful to install a deflector.

The slope of the ventilation pipes must be at least 60° per 100 cm of length.

Ventilation pipes are located in opposite corners of the room

When natural ventilation fails, forced ventilation will help. To do this, fans are installed in the pipes, working on the inflow and exhaust of air.

To test the efficiency of the system, hold a sheet of paper near the chimney: with a good hood, it will stick to the chimney. If this does not happen, the system does not work.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier device

Drops on the ceiling and walls, wet slippery floors may indicate poor waterproofing. Its strengthening is best done in the warm season.

Basement interior and exterior waterproofing

Work is carried out outside the premises:

A trench 40-50 cm wide is dug along the walls.

A trench is being dug along the walls outside

The walls are dried, then glued waterproofing materials.

Roofing material is used as sheet material, which is glued with bituminous mastic. It is important that the waterproofing layer does not have gaps, otherwise the water will still seep through. If two layers are made, then they are overlapped.

After that, drainage is performed to drain groundwater and backfill with soil.

From above equip a blind area from any kind of soft roof. The edge of the blind area is fixed to the wall of the building with bitumen at a height of 50-70 cm. The lower edge should cover the space 50-70 cm from the wall.

Simultaneously with the waterproofing of the walls, a drainage system is arranged

It is not always possible to make external waterproofing, in this case it is carried out from the inside. This can be done even on a damp surface, as modern impregnations allow moisture to crystallize inside the plate.

Internal waterproofing carry out impregnations based on cement: Pnetron, Kalmatron, Hydrotex and others. They penetrate the walls to a depth of up to half a meter and create a barrier to the penetration of water inside. This is how walls and ceilings are treated.

Cracks and cracks on the walls are preliminarily sealed with cement mortar, and pressure leaks - with alabaster.

Modern waterproofing impregnations can be applied even on damp walls

It is the floor that often becomes a source of dampness, therefore, all cracks on it are also eliminated.

Lay roofing material or a thick film over the backfill

After that, a layer of sand or expanded clay with a thickness of 5 cm is covered. Roofing material or a thick film is laid on top, smearing the joints with bituminous mastic.

Then make a screed or boardwalk.

Drainage system around the cellar

This is a stand-alone building and effective protection from moisture around its perimeter, it is necessary to make a drainage system. In an earthen cellar for this purpose they build additional walls from wood or brick at a distance of 20 cm from the main ones. The gap is subsequently filled with crushed stone or expanded clay. It is enough to lay out the walls in half a brick. Every five rows, the masonry is plastered from the side of the earthen wall and dried.

Brick walls are erected inside the earthen cellar

An earthen floor will not protect against groundwater. As a temporary measure, it can be covered with a thick polyethylene film. For more effective protection, it is necessary to arrange a base:

Level and compact the soil well.

Pour sand in the first layer and also compact well. The thickness of the sand cushion should be at least 15 cm.

Overlap the roofing material on top, glue the joints with bituminous mastic.

Pour expanded clay with a layer of 5 cm.

Fill with cement mortar. It is prepared from one part of cement, three parts sand and additives that improve waterproofing properties.

The cement base will reliably protect the cellar from groundwater

Let the base dry and gain strength. This will take 28 days.

After that, lay the logs and equip the wooden floor.

Advice! When pouring the solution, drown the reinforcing mesh in the screed. It will protect the future foundation from cracking.

Instead of expanded clay-cement screed, you can use arbolite or fiberboard blocks. Top fill thin layer cement mortar, he will fill the joints between the plates.

Arbolite blocks are made from sawdust and cement

Waterproofing in the garage

Basement waterproofing in the garage is carried out in the same way as in the house. Important role here plays the device of the drainage system. It can be done outside or inside. The second option is suitable for apartment building and corporate garage:

Inside, along the perimeter of the room, they dig a trench 40-50 cm deep.

The bottom is trampled down and covered with geotextiles.

Geotextile absorbs water well

A layer of gravel or crushed stone is poured 15-20 cm thick.

Lay on top drainage pipes with a slope of 3 mm by 1 meter and covered with a layer of medium-sized gravel, and covered with another layer of geotextile on top.

Drainage pipes are laid with a slope

The trench is covered with soil and trampled down.

In the lowest part of the garage, a well is installed to collect water, to which drainage pipes are connected.

The principle of the drainage system in the basement

Install a pump that automatically starts when the water level rises and turns off when it drops.

thermal insulation

The method copes well with the problem of condensate by reducing the temperature difference between the interior and the ceiling with the walls. To do this, the surfaces are glued from the inside with heat-insulating sheet materials. The cheapest and most popular of them is foam.

First, the room is dried, the surfaces are covered disinfectant solution so that the fungus does not multiply under the coating. To do this, use a solution of lime or copper sulfate.

Walls are treated with a disinfectant to get rid of mold and mildew

Styrofoam sheets are glued with special glue and fixed at the edges with dowels. In this way, the ceiling is insulated, and, if necessary, the walls. The disadvantage of the method is the inability to create a continuous coating without seams.

Styrofoam - popular material basement insulation

The tightness of the coating is achieved by using polyurethane. The composition is applied under pressure to the surface to be treated and a continuous coating is created on it.

For insulation with polyurethane special equipment

After drying, it is plastered and painted. But for carrying out such work, special equipment is required, it is unlikely that it will be possible to do it on your own.

Advice! Take Special attention access hatch: it should be almost airtight. Otherwise, steam will penetrate from the upper rooms into the basement, and the cracks in the cellar hatch will allow cold air to enter inside.

How to dry a basement or cellar

The choice of method depends on the size of the room, the time of year, the presence of ventilation and how high the humidity is. It is better to take care of drying in advance, even before harvesting and storing it.

Preparation for work:

Dismantle and take out into the air all wooden structures: racks, boxes, boxes, shelves.

Rinse thoroughly with hot soapy water and laundry soap.

Dry in the shade under a canopy.

Disinfect with 10 percent aqueous solution copper or iron sulphate or lime with the addition of vitriol (100 g per bucket). This will protect the wood from decay, mold and mildew.

Copper sulfate is a good antiseptic for wood processing

Open the valves on the ventilation pipes, vents and hatch. After a while, the air temperature outside and inside the cellar will equalize and you can start drying.

Drying options

There are 7 ways to remove excess moisture:

Household air dryer. Such devices work on the principle of an air conditioner, passing air through itself and removing excess moisture from it. One problem is they are expensive.

Household dehumidifier can be used to dehumidify the basement

Iron stove. The process will take a long time, but will allow you to completely dry wet room. Heat the stove until you achieve the desired result.

With the help of an iron stove, you can drain the basement of the house and garage

With the help of a roaster. You can make it yourself by adapting an old bucket for this purpose. Make a fire from wood chips in a bucket, add firewood. When the fire flares up, lower the bucket into the cellar with a wire hook and secure it so that it hangs without touching the floor. Live fire will quickly displace moist air and dry the room. The resulting smoke will additionally disinfect the basement, get rid of insects and fungus.

Heater, heat gun, fan heater. All these devices can be used instead of a stove with the same effect. True, this will require more time and energy costs.

The heat gun will help a short time dry a room of any size

With the help of candles. exhaust pipe extend to the floor and place a lit candle in front of it to create traction. Humid air will leave the room. It will take 3 days to dry.

Absorbents. Sawdust, slaked lime, potassium chloride have the ability to absorb moisture. Lay them out along the walls and change them when they get wet. It will not work to completely dry the basement, but you can reduce the humidity. Slaked lime and disinfect the room.

Cardboard boxes, newspapers. The principle of operation is the same as with absorbents.

Video: drying the underground in the garage with homemade forced ventilation

How to prevent high humidity

This should be considered at the design and construction stage. After all, the problem is easier to prevent than to spend time and energy on dealing with the consequences.

Choose a material with low hygroscopicity for walls and ceilings. It must not conduct water and steam. It is best to use cement grade M400 and higher or additives that increase moisture resistance.

If there is a risk of an increase in groundwater during the off-season, perform external waterproofing of the walls and take care of the drainage system. good and sometimes the only way out a drainage well will be installed.

Install a blind area around the cellar or building to drain rain and melt water from the roof.

Install a vapor barrier between the basement and the upper rooms.

Provide underground storage ventilation system and make sure it's correct.

Arrange glass jars with slaked lime in the corners, whitewash the walls and ceiling with it. Lime absorbs moisture well.

Spread around the room white moss, it also has the ability to absorb water.

A dry cellar or basement is the main condition for preserving the crop. Therefore, it is so important to prevent the appearance of dampness in the storage and to be able to get rid of it if the problem does arise. Having completed the work on thermal insulation, waterproofing and ventilation, you will solve this problem.

Dampness in the underground country house- how to get rid of it?

Dampness, high humidity, stale air in the underground of a country house - such problems are familiar to many summer residents. How to get rid of such misfortunes? Read about it below.

First of all, in order for the underground part of the cottage to have sufficient ventilation, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least fifty centimeters wide between the base and the floor. If this is not done, the air in the underground will stagnate, humidify and begin to penetrate into the upper parts of the country house.

In addition, on ground floor cottages need to arrange special air ducts for more intensive ventilation. These channels organize competent air circulation under the floor. Of course, one ventilation window it will not be enough for the entire subfloor: on all opposite sides of the basement there should be a pair of air vents for each individual part of the underground. If the house has a long front part, the air vents should be installed with an interval of three to five meters from each other. First of all, this applies to those buildings that are on a hill. For low-lying houses, it is worth increasing the number of channels in direct proportion to the floor area. It is better if the vents are not arranged linearly, but in a checkerboard pattern. In addition, you can bring the hood underground and place the channel as close as possible to the chimney. This technique will allow the basement air to be updated even in the cold season. For ventilation of corners, special gratings should be equipped in the floor, allowing air to circulate freely. In autumn and winter periods ventilation ducts are carefully closed. This is done so that cold air does not penetrate under the building from the outside.

Quite often, builders forget that ventilation ducts must also be installed in the basement tape, which runs under internal partitions. If this is not done, windproof zones form in the subfield, and, as a result, mold, fungus, and stale air.

Another reason why excessive humidity may appear in the building is the excess of the soil level outside the country house above the soil level in the underground. In this case, moisture freely penetrates under the foundation and creates dampness. It is worth monitoring the level of groundwater: if it is high, then it will almost always be wet in the underground. Correcting the situation is not so easy - for this you need a drainage system device, with which it will be possible to divert groundwater from the building. It should also provide natural ventilation basement in spring and summer and carefully waterproof the foundation and walls of the subfloor.

In extreme cases, in order to reduce the humidity of the underground part of the country house, you can use a specialized device - a household dehumidifier. This device passes moist air through itself and condenses water into a separate container. After using a household dehumidifier, the humidity in the basement returns to normal.