How to choose the diameter of the drainpipe for the drainage system. Which pipes should be chosen for the raceway ditch? Requirements for installing drainage systems with your own hands

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The drain pipe is an element of the whole system, which is responsible for the removal of melt and rain water from the roof of the building. Such a design must be installed on any building. Pipes for water drainage can be mounted on the outside of the walls, descending around the entire perimeter. Sometimes they are mounted in the internal cavity of the building, and the structure becomes invisible.

Which type of gutter is right for your home depends on several factors. It is about them that we will talk further.

What are they installed for?

Drainage systems can not be installed only if the house is one-story and has a fairly large area. But even under such conditions, it is necessary to lengthen the roof sheds as much as possible so that they serve as a drain. In all other cases, pipes are necessary because they protect the building from the adverse effects of precipitation. In particular:

• unaesthetic stains on the facade, destruction and damage to the finishing material;
• destruction of the blind area and foundation due to constant washing away;
• skew of the structure due to land subsidence;

• the appearance of cracks and irregularities in the brickwork and the plaster layer;
• wetting and deformation of wood;
• water ingress into the seams between the facade tiles;
• wetting and damage to the insulation and load-bearing walls due to moisture ingress into the hinged facades.

If you install a high-quality drainage system, then you can forget about all these consequences. Moreover, the modern market offers a huge selection of designs that differ in their cost, size, performance, appearance and service life.

Features and elements

Drains of any type have a similar design, even if they are made of different materials. We list the main elements that make up any modern drainage system:

• gutter- a horizontal channel of small diameter, which is installed along the edge of the roof and is used to direct the flow of water through the funnels into the pipe;
• pipe- a vertical element necessary for draining water into special receivers;
• tees- details of the drain, necessary for the divorce of pipes;
• pipe connectors- an additional element of a vertical structure or gutters;
• brackets- are used to fasten the gutters to the roof;
• clamps- are used to ensure reliable fastening of vertical pipe elements;
• knees (lines)- for bypassing the drain and decorative elements of the facade;

As well as catchment funnels, gutter plugs, ebbs (marks), etc.

Classification

Drain pipes are divided according to several parameters.

• Section shape. Pipes come in round, square and rectangular sections. The latter type is in particular demand due to its originality.
• Manufacturing material. On the modern construction market, gutters made of plastic, metal-plastic and metal are presented. Metal products are galvanized, copper and copper with a zinc-titanium coating, steel and steel with a polymer coating.

Also, drainpipes differ in their dimensions.

Dimensions

The dimensions of pipes and gutters must comply with the current GOST 7623-84. According to this document, the diameter of the downpipe differs depending on the size of the roof. Here is a specific example (roof area - pipe diameter):

• up to 30 m2 - 80 mm;
• up to 50 m2 - 90 mm;
• more than 125 m2 - 100 mm.

The gutters also come in different diameters. The most popular sizes are 10, 12, 12.5, 14, 15, 18, 20 centimeters. The optimal gutter and pipe size for your roof can be found in the national standard chart. The diameter of the pipes and the number of risers must be determined taking into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slopes, the shape of the roof, and the approximate intensity of precipitation.

Metal and plastic: pros and cons

Metal gutters

Metal structures are divided into several categories, depending on the pipe material:

• Galvanized. They are suitable for installation in private homes, industrial facilities, prefabricated warehouses and utility buildings. Such pipes are characterized by low price and availability, but they quickly corrode. In addition, during rain and the movement of water flow through galvanized pipes, it creates a large amount of noise.
• Copper. Such pipes are practical, durable, aesthetic, do not create a lot of noise. However, over time, a patina forms on the copper surface, which significantly affects the appearance of the structure. In addition, the cost of copper products is quite high.

• Aluminum. This type of construction is characterized by durability, versatility, unpretentiousness in installation and operation. Since such metal is light in weight, the load on the facade remains minimal. Aluminum pipes are inexpensive and have a neat appearance.
• Aluzincated. Such structures consist of steel coated with aluzinc - a composition of silicon, zinc and aluminum. The result is aesthetic structures that are resistant to external influences. Their service life is at least 30 years.

In addition to the aluzinc film, a water-repellent polyurethane coating is applied on all sides of the structure, which protects the material from rusting. The surface of the pipes can be different, even imitate bronze, copper and other expensive metals.

The main disadvantage of a metal drain is its high thermal conductivity. As a result, ice may form inside the pipes.

Plastic

This material is in great demand due to its low cost. In addition, plastic gutters have other advantages:

• variety of shapes and sizes in the manufacture of extrusion;
• resistance to corrosion;
• minimum weight;
• noiselessness;
• aesthetic appearance;
• ease of assembly.

Also, plastic structures are perfectly combined with soft tiles and look much better than metal counterparts. However, such drains have a number of disadvantages:

• not resistant to temperature extremes;
• fade under the influence of ultraviolet;
• become brittle and brittle in the cold;
• easily deformed in case of external damage.

In this regard, plastic gutters are best used only inside buildings in regions with a temperate climate.

metal-plastic

Due to their design characteristics, such drainage systems are usually called combined. They are made of galvanized steel, which is coated on both sides with a polymer layer. The result is a high-quality, durable, aesthetic and reliable design. However, the cost of such a product will be quite large.

If plastisol is used for coating, then the pipes become resistant to rust and mechanical damage. And also designs not:

• deformed from temperature changes;
• exposed to external influences, including ultraviolet radiation;
• create extraneous noise;
• require special care;
• form ice inside.

In addition, such structures are distinguished by excellent external characteristics. They do not lose their aesthetic appearance for a long time. At the same time, the thicker the spray layer, the better the quality.

Calculation and installation

You can install a drainage system in a private house with your own hands or with the help of professionals. In any case, work begins with the calculation of all the necessary materials.

First of all, you need to purchase a ready-made drainage system. This will greatly facilitate the installation process of the structure, especially since modern hardware stores offer a huge selection of such products. Depending on your preferences, choose a plastic or metal system that is electroplated.

For the construction of the drain you will need the following elements:

• gutters or trays - their standard length is 3 m;
• pipes for vertical drainage of rain and melt water 3 or 4 meters long;
• brackets for fixing trays;
• pipe clamps;
• funnels;
• knee;
• silicone sealant for the treatment of joints of elements of roof gutters.

It is also necessary to prepare all the necessary tools in advance: a tape measure, a screwdriver, a plumb line, a hacksaw.

It is better to use a regular hacksaw, since it is not recommended to cut plastic or metal drains with electrical appliances.

We calculate the required number of elements.

• Trays. To accurately calculate the number of gutters needed for a simple gable roof, you need to measure the length of the eaves and divide it by 3 (the length of the tray), and round the result up. When performing calculations, it must be taken into account that the trays are mounted at a slope of approximately 2-5 degrees and are inserted into each other to ensure maximum tightness of the structure. Thus, the connection is obtained with an overlap of 5-10 centimeters.
• Pipes. When calculating the diameter of the pipes, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof slope and the approximate volume of water that will pass through it should be taken into account. The larger the volume, the larger the diameter of the pipe should be. The same rule applies to trays. Let's consider examples of calculations for different cases when the slope area:
  • less than 50 m2: pipe diameter - 75 mm, tray width - 100 mm;
  • 50-100 m2: pipe diameter - 87 mm, tray width - 125 mm;
  • more than 150 m2: pipe diameter - 100-120 mm, lot width - 190 mm.

In order to calculate the number of pipes needed, you need to measure the height from the ground to the cornice, multiply the result by 4 (number of risers) and divide by 3 (product length). If necessary, the number of pipes can be increased.

• Funnels. These structural links are installed in the corners of the building, which means that for a quadrangular house with a gable roof, you will need at least 4 funnels. In the event that the eaves of the structure are longer than the standard, several additional funnels can be installed (at least 1 per 10 m of the gutter) to reduce the load on the roof.
• Brackets, clamps, knees. Brackets for trays are installed every 50-60 cm. An average of 2 clamps will be required to fasten each pipe. The number of knees differs depending on the complexity of the design, there can be 2 or 4.
• Number of corners and plugs to them depends on the configuration of the roof.

Today, many manufacturing companies offer online calculation of the drainage system on their websites.

Installation

All installation is carried out from top to bottom - this is an important rule that cannot be neglected. Only in this case the quality of installation will be at the highest level.

• We find the middle of the cornice and put a point there, it is in this place that the first bracket must be fixed. In this case, the upper edge of the gutter must be laid on it so that the distance between its edge and the roof is at least 3 centimeters. Due to this, water will not splash when it enters the tray.
• A self-tapping screw is screwed into the marked point, a special strong fishing line is tied to it. We install the remaining brackets along this line.
• Laying gutters. If necessary, the trays are cut with a hacksaw, and the edges are polished with a file.

• Next, we install the pipes. If the pipe does not have any bends, then simply insert its edge into the funnel. In the process of work, it is necessary to use a plumb line to maintain the strict verticality of the structure. If the downpipe is mounted on a complex area with bends, then special elbows are used during its installation.
• Clamps of various shapes are used to fasten pipes. They can be attached directly to the wall of the house or at some distance from it. Clamps must be installed at the junction of two pipes. If necessary, you can mount an additional clamp in the middle of each pipe.
• If a storm sewer is installed on the site, then the lower edges of the pipes must be diverted to water inlets.
• This completes the process of installing the drainage system. If you strictly follow the instructions, then installation will not take much time and effort.

To make sure that the work on installing the drain is successful, take note of some useful tips from experts in this field.

• Use silicone sealant to apply to pipe joints. This will allow to obtain reliable sealing of the seams in the process of pipe displacement and temperature fluctuations.
• Do not make mistakes in the process of attaching the brackets. Such an element is installed under the gutter trays in three ways: fastening to the rafter legs, to the frontal bar under the cornice, along the extreme element of the crate. The main condition for any option is the correctly set angle of inclination.
• Mount the structure only at an air temperature of at least -5 degrees.

• Strictly ensure that the distance between the brackets does not exceed the permissible norm. Otherwise, depressurization of the joints and sagging of the structure may occur, and this will inevitably lead to water leakage.
• Be sure to check that the tray coincides with the edge of the eaves along its entire axis. Since even a slight displacement in any direction will lead to a leak.
• Upon completion of the installation of the structure, be sure to check the drain. You need to know for sure that the system will withstand the severity of the flow of water. To do this, simply pour one bucket of water at the beginning of the tray system and check if everything is in order.
• Before the start of winter, be sure to clean the trays and drain pipes from fallen leaves and other contaminants. It is advisable to carry out such a procedure even 2 times a year. At the same time, use a gentle cleaning method without the use of metal objects that can damage the integrity of structural elements.

How to turn your wet area into a full-fledged yard and garden with flowering plants? Drainage prevents stagnation of rain / melt water in the local area, minimizes damage from groundwater. Drainage also allows you to get free clean water suitable for irrigation.

Why is soil drainage necessary?

Soil drainage is carried out in order to divert groundwater or excess moisture that accumulates after rains, snowmelt. Is it worth reminding how much trouble constant dampness can do:

• warped fences;
• swollen flower beds and vegetable gardens;
• broken foundation;
• mold in the basement, etc.

Drainage is needed if:

1. The groundwater level is less than 1 m from the ground surface;
2. The land around the house is clay/loam with low water yield;

1. The site is located on a slope (a transverse drainage ditch or several included in the central highway are installed).
2. The farmstead is located in a lowland (the perimeter system of drainage pipes - drains) is being laid.

1. The adjacent territory is flat, the water has no natural drains and stagnates.

Types of drainage

Depending on the depth of groundwater, the geological structure of the drained area and the nature of the object, a certain drainage system is equipped. For drainage of houses and outbuildings, local drainage systems are used.

Types and functions of local drainage:

1. Plast or filter bed located directly under the building on poorly permeable soil. Prevents the entry of moisture already in capillary form. It is laid down simultaneously with the construction of the house. It is advisable in the presence of a deep basement / underground garage.
   Filtration bed is a layer of crushed stone/gravel, crushed stone and sand or geocomposite, connected with the drain system, extending beyond the outer walls of the foundation by at least 0.7 m;

After construction work, such drainage will not be possible, therefore, geological surveys are necessary at the design stage.

1. Annular- also protects from flooding parts of the house below ground level. The efficiency of drainage depends on the depth of the pipes, as well as the size of the circuit. Unlike reservoir, it can be laid after the construction of the house;

1. wall- used in the case of the location of the house on impervious soil. Pipes with filter cake are laid outside the object;

1. dotted- it is arranged in places of usual "wet" work: a platform for washing a car, washing carpets, at a water column.

Carrying out the general task of stabilizing the water balance of the earth, the arrangement of drainage facilities may have differences. This dissimilarity makes it possible to effectively use structures on terrain of any complexity, save money and time.

Design differences of drainages:

1. Horizontal- is a pipeline placed between the filter layers of sand, gravel, geotextile. The system includes manholes for pipe maintenance. This also includes ditches / trenches and drains for rainwater - sewer pipes / concrete channels;

1. Vertical- several wells, from which water can go down naturally / through a drilled well, pumped out or flow through a combined drain system into a collector;

1. Combined(the name speaks for itself) is a device for both horizontal and vertical drainage.

How to know if drainage is needed in the yard

Before starting voluminous work, in each case, you need to make sure that such an event is necessary.

How to determine the moisture content of the earth:

1. Drill a well in increments of 0.5 m, checking the dryness of the soil. Gradually lower the rope with a sinker and a piece of paper, marking each meter on the rope. The depth at which the paper remains dry indicates the upper water table;
2. In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bnew buildings, the foundation pit is checked on the neighbors' site - is there water there, how much, does it flow and where or does it stagnate;

1. In the presence of wells - the water level is clearly visible in them;
2. Interview the local population about seasonal/permanent flooding.

Do not ignore natural clues. If moisture-loving willow, reeds, horsetail, forget-me-nots, marigold grow on the territory, there are accumulations of mosquitoes, which means that drainage is indispensable.

Professional help

Complete information about the structure of the earth within a certain territory is given by an organization dealing with earth geology. It has special equipment and the ability to conduct professional surveys.

Based on the information received, it will be clear:

1. Geological structure of the site;
2. Area in need of drainage;
3. Characteristic movement of groundwater;
4. Change in groundwater level with a finished drainage system, etc..

Studying the soil is useful for designing a house and a drainage system (these activities are best done in parallel). Documentary justification for such work can be found in SP 47.13330.2012, 11-104-97, 11-105-97. The work is not cheap - the cost of drilling will average from 600 to 2500 rubles / 1 m.

Drainage Equipment

The drainage system is a single structure, the elements of which are designed to collect, pass and accumulate excess water. If even one structural element is excluded, drainage will worsen and gradually come to naught.

What does the system consist of?:

1. Drains with a diameter of 100–180 mm;
2. Inspection/drainage wells (240–360 mm);
3. Absorption well (may not be);
4. Collector, the final link in the chain. It accumulates water coming from all pipes in the territory.

Comparative characteristics of drainage pipes

Soil drainage pipes, due to the porous surface, are absorbent, justifying their purpose. Not all owners of private housing construction have special equipment or the ability to order it. For them, it is of great importance to be able to work with such material with their own hands, without spending great physical effort.

What types of pipes can be used:

1. Asbestos-cement;
2. Ceramic;
3. Polymeric - polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polypropylene (PP), low pressure polyethylene (HDPE);
4. Perfocor - high modulus polyethylene + minerals. Two-layer (diameter 110, 160, 200 mm). Perforated over the entire surface are used for deep drainage, with perforation of only the upper part - for the removal of top water.

It is necessary to take into account the weight of the material, the ease of cutting the fragments required along the length, the convenient connection of the segments and, of course, the cost. As a rule, instead of pipes from the times of prehistoric materialism, plastic analogues are most often chosen.

Asbestos-cement

Asbestos-cement BNT drains are suitable for areas with a groundwater depth of up to 2.5 m. But now there is hardly a person who agrees to use bulky heavy pipes from the era of prehistoric materialism. You can turn them only with the help of cranes + the selfless work of professionals. The service life of such drains is from 30 to 35 years.

Advantages of asbestos-cement pipes:

Perhaps one thing - they are not afraid of frost, fire, aggressive environments.

disadvantages:

1. Having considered the service life + the cost of installation work, it becomes clear that such pipes will cost more;
2. The rough inner surface quickly silts up;
3. Heavy. For example, BNT-100 3950 mm long weighs just over 23 kg;
4. High price - 1 pc. about 500 rubles.

Ceramic

Natural material leads to the right thoughts about the environmental cleanliness of the world. Only clay drains are not wildly popular either - the material is heavy, fragile and requires increased attention.

What is good ceramics:

1. The inner smooth surface does not silt for a long time;
2. Service life up to 50 years;
3. Environmentally friendly material.

disadvantages:

1. The length of the segments is small - up to 1500 mm, which means a lot of joints that require rubber seals, sealant. As a result, high installation costs + high cost of the drains themselves;
2. Geofabric does not adhere to a smooth surface;
3. Afraid of frost, additional insulation is required.

Plastic

Lightweight inexpensive material without any problems has become familiar. Working with plastic drainage pipes with your own hands is much more pleasant than with their classic counterparts.

Polymer pipes are different:

1. Structurally - one - and two-layer. With filter coating / without it;
2. In terms of strength - corrugated ones have an increased stiffness class, denoted by the SN index. The higher the index, the greater the depth of the pipe, for example, SN2 - 2 m, SN4 - 3 m, SN 6 - 4 m, SN16 - more than 10 m;
3. Release form - reels of 40–50 m (flexible), segments of 6 and 12 m (rigid).

Advantages of plastic drains:

1. Some have a ready-made filter winding - a geosynthetic polyester material made from staple fibers, in everyday life it is called geotextile / geofabric (does not decompose); coke fiber (decomposes);
2. Resistant to aggressive environments, corrosion;
3. Relatively cheap;
4. Lightweight (weight of a 50-meter bay is from 13 to 55 kg);
5. Moderate cost - from 70 to 7000 rubles / rm. m.;
6. The integrity of the structure is maintained when the soil is displaced.
7. The longest service life is from 50 years and longer.

Flaw- the need to use corner assemblies / fittings in the design.

Wells, their functions

There are several types of wells in the system, some of which are mandatory, while others can be abandoned. The well is a corrugated / smooth-walled shaft (pipe). Its bottom has through/tee drain inlets located perpendicular to the hull.

The instruction prescribes the height of the inlets relative to the bottom of at least 40 cm. The neck of the well is closed with a decorative cover.

Types of wells:

1. Swivel / viewing- is located on pipeline bends or connects several pipes. In some classifications, these wells are considered separately, although they perform the same functions;

Wells have design features, differ in size. For a rotary, a corrugated pipe d 100-460 mm is often used, for an inspection one - a plastic container with an inlet of at least 1000 mm so that a person can go down inside for maintenance.

1. Absorption/submersible- is installed pointwise (the drainage system is not assembled) at a low point / points of the site. The diameter of the service neck must be sufficient so that a person can get inside;

1. Collector- a fairly large capacity that can accommodate the contents of drainage pipes and storm sewers. If the lot borders no man's land and the terrain is lowered, the gutter is brought out of the lot boundary.

Popular manufacturers of pipes, fittings, manholes and accessories:

1. InstalPlast (Poland);
2. FD Plast, RODLEX, Rostok, Polypipes (Russia).
3. Wavin (Czech Republic).

The price variability speaks in favor of installing a factory well - from 1000 to 8000 rubles, light weight, minimum work. A well made of concrete rings, bricks will increase the cost of material, special transport, mortar.

Installation of wells: Subtleties

For a manhole, a fragment of a corrugated pipe is used, in the lower part of which holes for drains are cut. The bottom is glued with waterproof mastic or other special tool. The pipe is connected to the body using rubber seals. The turn signal is installed on a pillow of sand and gravel, sprinkled with gravel on the sides.

The installation of an absorption well is more laborious, most often reinforced concrete rings are used for it, requiring certain skills or the help of specialists. The depth of the structure exceeds the freezing level of the soil, and the diameter depends on the degree of water loss of the soil - the lower it is, the wider the well.

If necessary, additional wells are drilled in the base to reach a layer of earth capable of absorbing water. The well is cased with a metal perforated pipe that can withstand ground shifts. This pipe protrudes from the well to a height of 0.5–0.7 m. The bottom of the structure is covered with a layer of crushed granite.

A drainage pit for water flow is made of reinforced concrete rings or stone with sealed joints. Installing a prefabricated PVC collector is faster and cheaper. In this case, an even, clean base is of great importance - protrusions, pits and sharp objects can damage the case. The best option would be a cement base, sprinkled with sand and gravel mixture from the sides, ramming each layer.

The main rules for laying drainage

The rules for laying the drainage system are based primarily on elementary logic. For example, a slope towards the collector is necessary so that the water drains and does not stagnate in the drains.

The layer of geofabric that separates the structure from the ground, and the sprinkling of pipes play the role of additional filters and insulation. Storm drains are a separate structure with its own specifics.

open system

The easiest way is an open horizontal drainage - the famous ditch 700 mm deep, 500 mm wide with a 30 ° bevel of the side walls. So that the edges do not swim, half of the trench is filled with large gravel, and small on top. You can disguise the stones with turf, but the functionality of the ditch will drop dramatically.

The rubble backfill turns the ditch into something resembling a garden path that can be used for decorative purposes in the garden. Alternatively, the structure is masked with artificial turf. The trench can be a temporary option until the deep drainage is laid.

Closed drainage

How to drain rain water? Rains can bring down the monthly norm of cages in a few days. An overflowing drain instead of water intake will saturate the earth with it. If in autumn the waterlogged loam freezes, then the foundation, the blind area may swell, and the wet basement will “bloom” with mold spots.

Stormwater equipment:

1. Sewer smooth-walled PVC pipes d 110–200 mm;
2. Sand traps - 2 in 1 plastic containers. The inner container is removed to remove accumulated sand, leaves and twigs;
3. Decorative grill covering the openings of the sand traps;

Under the storm drain, it is not necessary to dig a separate trench, the pipes can be laid parallel to the drainage pipes.

The next option for storm sewers is shallow concrete gutters, into which plastic trays of appropriate height are inserted. The joints between the trays are sealed, and from above, along the entire length, the trays are covered with gratings. The water flow is carried out into the well or removed from the site, if conditions permit.

You can check the finished storm drain by pouring a bucket of water into each gutter. It should flow into a bucket suspended in a well. If the amount of poured and collected water is the same, then the slope is observed and the system is ready for operation.

Deep drainage

This type of drainage is used to dry the ground or create an optimal moisture regime for plant roots. In the first case, the drains are located below the groundwater level.

In the second - the deepening of the pipes is averaged and depends on the type of green spaces. For a garden, the average depth of the pipe is 1.5 m, flower beds - 0.9 m.

System installation:

1. Make a drainage plan. The location of the drains will depend on the terrain;
2. Trenches are laid (usually with a shovel) with an average width of 40 cm. The depth in each case depends on the level of groundwater;
3. Lay out the trench from the inside with geotextile, pinning along the edges with sticks / chips.

1. Install manholes on turns;
2. At the bottom of the ditch, a layer of crushed stone / construction waste that allows water to pass through is laid, 5–10 cm thick, leveled;
3. A pipe for a ditch is laid on the crushed stone, a fitting connection of the side drains with the main pipeline, with manholes, a collector is carried out;
4. The structure is covered from the sides and from above with the next layer of crushed stone with a layer of 10–15 cm;
5. The edges of the geotextile are superimposed one on top of the other, wrapping the buried pipe.

Before backfilling the trench, it is advisable to check the performance of the drainage. After a good rain, it will become clear how well the water drains. If there are flaws in the work, they will need to be corrected.

Summarizing

Now you know that ditches, ditches, pits and trenches are extremely useful: the problems of damp cellars, rain puddles and stunted trees will disappear. If any points in the article seemed difficult, watch the video: I hope it will help you figure it out.

Plastic gutters for the roof - equipment and installation. Water drain pipe

Draining rainwater from the roof

Rainwater flowing from the roof has tremendous destructive power. Firstly, the walls and foundation of the house get wet, which leads to their rapid wear. Secondly, water falling from a height onto the blind area knocks out and washes out the hollows on it in a short time. Concrete blind area can collapse quite quickly, as well as paving slabs. Thirdly, all the water flowing from the roof is absorbed into the ground right next to the house, which leads to flooding of basements and basement floors. You can list the consequences for a long time, but it’s already clear that it is necessary to drain water from the roof. To do this, a gutter system must be installed under the roof overhang, which collects water flowing down from the roof and directs it to the place intended for this on the site. To do everything right, you should familiarize yourself with what elements of the drainage system will be needed, what materials they can be made of, as well as with the technology for their installation.

1. Where to divert water from the roof

Roof drainage system - elements

There are two types of drainage systems - external and internal.

An external drainage system is installed on roof overhangs if the roof is pitched (single-pitched, double-pitched, hip, etc.). This type of system is used in most country houses, so we will consider it in more detail.

An internal drainage system is installed on flat roofs, where the roofing material has a special slope leading to a funnel - a rainwater receiver, which then enters the downpipe inside the building or in technical cavities.

• Water gutter. Serves to collect water flowing from the roof of the house. It can have a different shape and size, it is made of various materials. Further down the gutter, the water is directed to a downpipe, which directs the water to a water drain from the roof.

• Gutter connectors. Usually the gutters of the gutter system are not longer than 2.5 m, therefore, to install the gutter on the roof, the length of which is longer, it is necessary to connect the gutters to each other. The connectors are equipped with rubber seals, which ensure the tightness of the connection, and also serve to compensate for the thermal expansion of the gutter material.
• Gutter angle. Various corner elements to outline the interior corners of the house. Provides excellent hydrodynamics.
• Brackets. Various kinds of elements that are necessary to fix the gutters to the roof. It can be a long hook for hanging gutters, a short hook, a compact hook. All of them have a different design and are used in different situations.
• Funnel gutter. With the help of it, water from the gutters is collected into the downpipe. A mandatory element for the installation of a drain, with proper installation, additional sealing is not required.
• Gutter end caps are installed around the edges of the gutter to keep water from running off.
• Pipe. It drains water from the gutters. Further along the pipe, the water is drained to the place intended for this. Installed under the funnel and securely fixed to it.
• The pipe elbow and the drain elbow are used to divert water away from the basement and blind area of ​​the building. The pipe elbow is used to change the direction of the downpipe. The drain elbow is installed at the bottom so that the water goes straight into the storm sewer.
• Brackets for fixing the pipe. They serve to fix the downpipe to the wall of the house, so that its position could not be disturbed by gusts of wind.

In addition to the above elements, a protective mesh cap is sometimes used on the gutter so that debris, such as leaves, does not get into it. After all, a clogged drain begins to perform its functions poorly. Also, instead of a drain pipe, decorative drain chains can be used, through which water flows into a container or a flower bed located immediately below the funnel. Such a chain can be a real decoration of the house, if it is correctly beaten with other exterior items and you choose gutters that are organically combined with the chain.

Types of gutters and downpipes

Gutters and pipes are the main elements of the system that ensures the drainage of rainwater from the roof. On the market, you can purchase ready-made sets of drainage systems, consisting of various elements, after connecting and installing which you can be sure that the collection and runoff of rainwater is ensured. The main thing is to choose the right size. Typically, the gutter diameter ranges from 90 mm to 150 mm, and the downpipe diameter ranges from 75 mm to 120 mm.

What diameter gutter and downpipe to choose depends on the size of the roof of the house. For roofs with a small slope from 10 to 70 m2, gutters with a diameter of 90 mm are suitable, and pipes - 75 mm. For roofs with a slope area of ​​more than 100 m2, gutters with a diameter of 100, 120, 130 and 150 mm are used, and pipes - 90 mm, 100 and 120 mm.

In addition to size, the elements of the drainage system differ in the material of manufacture and even in shape.

Gutter material

Gutter systems, including gutters, can be either metal or plastic. Metal gutters include galvanized steel, aluminum, copper, titanium-zinc and pural gutters (galvanized steel coated on both sides with a polymer).

Galvanized steel gutters, although more resistant to water than the tin gutters used in the past, nevertheless quickly fail under the influence of acid rain. Therefore, recently they are used less and less, and then only because they are the cheapest. But products coated with polymers, for example, pural, are resistant to corrosion, fading of the material, as well as mechanical stress. These gutters are available in a wide range of colors, so you can choose the product that best matches the facade of the building. The connection of gutters made of galvanized steel coated with a polymer is carried out using special connecting elements with sealing rubber bands, locks and brackets. And the brackets have a snap-on design. The disadvantage of such products is the fragility of the coating, which can be damaged during transportation or installation, and then rust will form at the site of the cleavage of the polymer coating.

Aluminum gutters are varnished or painted in various colors, so they last a long time. Products are bought ready-made and connected with rivets and glue for aluminum; special paste or silicone can also be used for sealing. In addition to finished products, it is possible to manufacture a roof water drain from sheet aluminum directly on the construction site by cutting the sheet and bending it in a certain way.

Copper gutters are considered the most durable. They are made of pure copper without additional coatings. They are connected to each other with a seam or soldering. Most often they are mounted on seam copper roofs. Over time, copper oxidizes, acquiring a greenish tint, and later - almost malachite. This is the so-called patina - copper oxide. It gives the whole roof a certain sophistication. Against the general background of such a roof, the gutters and drains will not stand out at all, as if they are one with the roof.

When installing copper drains, it must be remembered that they should not come into contact with other metals - aluminum or steel, and the roof of the house should not be made of these materials either, otherwise the water flowing from them will corrode the copper.

The zinc-titanium gutter can have a natural silver color, or it can be specially coated with a patina. By the way, titanium-zinc is a material that is 99.5% zinc, and the rest is copper, aluminum and titanium additives. Titanium in this case gives a certain strength to the product, since zinc itself is very fragile. The zinc-titanium gutters are connected by soldering, during which special pastes are used. This type of gutters is the most expensive of the currently existing ones, therefore it is used extremely rarely. But it can last up to 150 years.

PVC gutters are the most common. The plastic from which they are made is stained in its mass, so the color of the product is uniform and even if the surface is damaged, this will not be noticeable, as if the material was painted only on the outside. To make PVC more resistant to UV rays and chemical aggression, the surface of the gutters is coated with acrylic or titanium dioxide. PVC gutters are interconnected by means of couplings with rubber seals, latches and adhesive joints. The service life of a PVC drain can reach 50 years, and all due to the fact that PVC is not afraid of corrosion, withstands temperature extremes (-50 ° С - +70 ° С), as well as large snow and wind loads. In the process of snow falling from the PVC roof, the gutters are not damaged due to the fact that they do not have a vulnerable coating. For example, if the ice from the roof scratches the pural, such a gutter will not last long.

Gutter shape

In addition to the fact that gutters are made of various materials, they can also have a different shape. The sections of the gutters are as follows: semicircular, trapezoidal, semi-elliptical, square and rectangular, as well as imitating the shape of a cornice.

Semi-circular gutters are the most common and are suitable for any roof structure. Their edges turned inward and outward are stiffening ribs, which increase the resistance of the gutters to mechanical stress. Semi-elliptical gutters are able to contain and move a larger volume of water, therefore they are used to drain water from the roof of a house with a large slope area. Square and rectangular gutters are selected for a specific design, so they are not used everywhere. In addition, such a design can be easily damaged during snow melting from the roof, therefore it is mounted in a special way, and snow retainers are installed on the roof.

Whatever shape of the gutter is chosen, the pipes for them must correspond: for semicircular and semi-elliptical gutters - round pipes, and for boxed (square, rectangular and trapezoidal) - square.

Brackets - hooks for fixing gutters differ in size and shape, as well as in the place of fastening. It is from the place of fastening that the shape depends:

• Brackets attached to a windboard that is nailed along the roof slope. Such hooks are called front brackets, they are screwed to the windboard and have an adjustment mechanism.
• Flat curved brackets are fixed to the rafter leg, if the step between the rafters does not exceed the allowable distance between the brackets for the gutter, and can also be fixed to the extreme lath of the crate or to a solid boardwalk.
• Flat curved brackets can be attached to the side of the rafters, only they must first be bent.
• Universal brackets can be mounted anywhere: on the windboard, on the last batten, on the rafters at the front or side, and also on solid boarding.

Usually the brackets come with the gutters and the entire gutter system, so they match the shape and color of the gutter exactly. For example, for trapezoidal gutters, brackets of a special trapezoidal shape are used. The same applies to other species.

The material of the brackets depends on the material of the gutters. For copper products, copper or steel brackets are used. For titanium-zinc gutters, only titanium-zinc fasteners. But for gutters made of PVC or galvanized steel coated with a polymer, metal brackets are used, which are covered with a composite sheath or painted to match the color of the drain.

The dimensions of the holders and brackets must match the dimensions of the gutters. Although there are universal models that can be adjusted, so they are suitable for gutters and pipes of any diameter.

Installation of a rainwater drainage system from the roof

Installing a gutter system on a pitched roof is easy enough to be done by one person with a partner. Although in the installation technology itself there are some important nuances and little things that determine the reliability of the entire system. If you doubt your abilities, then it is better to entrust the installation to specialists. The fact is that manufacturers of drainage systems for the most part give a guarantee for the product. If the elements of the system are damaged during transportation or installation, the warranty will be void. If you turn to professionals for help, you will have a guarantee not only for products, but also for the work performed.

If you decide to install a drain for water from the roof yourself, then the instructions below will come in handy.

First of all, you need to decide what material you need the drain from, what shape and color. Then it calculates how many elements are required. After buying everything you need, you can proceed to the work itself.

Fixing brackets

It is extremely important to correctly determine what it is better to attach the brackets to specifically in your case. Remember, the distance from the gutter to the wall should not be less than 6 - 8 cm. Otherwise, the wall will get wet, if not from sewage, then from condensate.

The next rule is that the gutter should be located with a slope of 5 - 20 mm per 1 m running, so that water does not accumulate in it, but rushes by gravity into the funnel and pipe. Therefore, the brackets must be mounted not on the same horizontal line, but with an offset. Before you start installing the brackets, you need to verify the required slope and outline it. Only then can installation begin.

How to collect water from the roof and correctly calculate the slope? We take the length of the ramp, for example, 8 m. The slope should be 10 mm per 1 m. It turns out that the difference in height between the upper and lower brackets should be 80 mm. If the length of the slope is more than 12 m, then it is necessary to equip two drain pipes, and make the gutter with a slope in two directions. Starting from the middle of the slope, the left side of the gutter should slope to the left and down, and the right side should slope to the right and down.

The topmost bracket is attached first. It should be located on the opposite side of the drain pipe. It must be installed in such a way that the water flowing from the roof gets into it, but it is not in the way of the descending avalanche-like snow, otherwise the system will not withstand. The distance from the edge of the roof to the first upper bracket should be 10 - 15 cm. It is fixed with self-tapping screws.

The second is attached to the last lowest bracket. It must be fixed on the screws, without twisting to the end. Then a building thread is stretched between the brackets and places for attaching intermediate brackets are marked along it. The distance between the brackets should be 40 - 70 cm depending on the system, the most common spacing is 50 cm. All intermediate brackets are fixed.

Important! When installing brackets, it is important to remember that the gutters will be connected to each other and the bracket must not fall into place under the connecting element. Also, it should not be under the receiving funnel, but at a distance of 10 - 20 cm from it.

By the way, the receiving funnel is not installed in the corner of the slope, but 40 - 70 cm closer to the middle, at the level of the walls of the house.

Therefore, the last lower bracket must be rearranged slightly higher than the position on which it was first attached so that water can drain into the funnel.

Installation of gutters

Next, the gutter is assembled and installed on the brackets. Gutters are usually produced in lengths of 1 m, 2 m and 2.5 m. Therefore, the elements must first be connected. To do this, use elements with sealing rubber.

Plugs are installed along the edges of the gutter, and a receiving funnel / storm inlet is installed in the right place. The axis of the funnel watering must coincide with the axis of the hole cut in the gutter.

The gutter should have a slope not only towards the receiving pipe, but also away from the house. This will ensure safety and reduce the possibility of damage to the gutter during an avalanche.

The drainpipes are installed last. The drain pipe must be exactly under the funnel/drainpipe. The pipe is fixed to the walls with special holders or clamps. The fastening of the clamps depends on the material of the walls, it can be screws, nails, self-tapping screws or dowels.

Pipe holders must be placed at the pipe junctions - under each socket. The maximum distance between the holders is 1.8 - 2 m. The last element of the pipe - the drain elbow - must be positioned so as to drain water to the place intended for this.

Where to divert water from the roof

Well, the drainage system is installed on the roof, it remains to decide where all the collected water will be discharged. And there are several options:

• Draining rainwater from the roof into a container. A barrel or tank for rainwater can be placed at a distance from the house (about 0.5 - 5 m) from above, or it can be buried in the ground. Water flowing from the roof will accumulate in the tank, and then it can be used to water the garden or garden.

• Drainage of rainwater into a filtration well. If rainwater is not needed, and you are not going to water anything, then it can be diverted to a collection filtration well. A pit is dug in the ground, on the bottom of which a layer of rubble is poured. Then a concrete well is built on top, which is also half filled with crushed stone mixed with sand, and sand on top. This bedding serves as an absorbent element. Seeping through the sand and gravel, the water is purified. Such a well should be located at least 2 m away from the house, otherwise the groundwater level around the house may rise.

• Draining rainwater into the sewer. If a private house is connected to a central sewer, then rainwater can be diverted into it, but only by agreement and for a fee.

• Draining rainwater into a drainage ditch or pond. Rainwater is clean enough not to harm the ecosystem if poured into a drainage ditch or water body (lake, river, artificial kopanka). The main thing is to calculate that the water level in the drainage ditch does not rise too high in case of heavy rains.

The removal of water from the roof of the house is mandatory so that it does not undermine the foundation and does not destroy it. Therefore, if possible, it is necessary to equip a complete drainage system. If this is not possible, for example, this happens if the roof is sloping and made of natural materials - reeds or straw, then its overhangs should protrude at least 50 cm outside the house. At the bottom, it is desirable that water flow directly to the ground.

strport.ru

The simplest drainage sewer for a summer residence.

It is not enough to bring water into the house, after use it needs to be put somewhere. It’s hard to take out buckets, and it’s somehow pointless: water comes into the house by itself, and then it is taken out on foot. At least elementary sewerage is needed for a house or a summer residence. The option to simply remove the pipe from the house and drain the water to the ground or a small hole will not suit everyone. It doesn't look very good, and an unpleasant smell from this puddle or pit is almost guaranteed. What to do? So, we will need: an old metal or plastic barrel, a certain amount of sewer pipes (at least 6 meters, preferably PVC 110mm), a tee, a branch, about 0.5 cubic meters of medium fraction crushed stone, a shovel and several hours of our precious time. We choose a place for our drainage well. Preferably, no closer than 5 meters from the house, no closer than 20-25 meters from a well or well and downstream of them downstream of groundwater. We dig a hole with a diameter greater than the diameter of the barrel by at least 0.5 m (diameter of a standard barrel is 0.6 m, height 0.9 m, volume 0.2 cubic meters) and a depth of about 1.5 m (preferably deeper). We make holes in the walls of the barrel, if metal, then with a grinder, if plastic, then with a hacksaw for wood with a small tooth. We make a hole for the incoming sewer pipe in the wall, not far from the bottom of the barrel. We fill at least 20 cm of gravel at the bottom of the pit and put the barrel upside down, orienting the hole under the pipe towards the house. Now you need to dig a trench under the sewer pipe, bringing it to the place you need. The pipe must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per meter towards the barrel. It can be brought into the house either under the foundation, or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate the pipe, the water flowing through it will warm it perfectly. Not far from the barrel, we put a tee with a small piece of pipe coming out above the ground to circulate air inside the barrel and let air out of the sewer when it is filled from the house (so that the air from the barrel does not go into your house). We lead the pipe into the barrel through the hole made for this. We fill the gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit with gravel to the entire height of the barrel. At the bottom of the barrel, it is advisable to put some non-rotting material (a piece of old slate is perfect). We fill both the trench and the pit with soil, carefully tamping it down. We make a hole in the floor or wall of the house, finally leading the sewer into the house. Further at your discretion. On a piece of pipe sticking out of the ground near a buried barrel, you can put on a plastic fungus, which is difficult, but can be found in stores. And now the nuances. This is an exclusively drainage sewer for the house, it will not cope with fecal effluents, it cannot be cleaned or serviced in any way, and it is not intended for this. This sewer can be used for drains from the kitchen or from the bath. Drainage wells from a septic tank have the same device. The microclimate for bacteria that process wastewater depends on the depth of the pit. Ideally, the depth of the pit should be: the depth of soil freezing + the height of the barrel + the height of the crushed stone cushion (for the Leningrad region: 1.2m + 0.9m + 0.2m = 2.3m). But digging so deep is hard and not necessary. Drains also heat the barrel.

If the soil at the installation site of the sewer is clayey, and the water from the barrel leaves slowly, then the sewer for the house can be slightly improved. To do this, you need to lay another sewer, and preferably a drainage pipe. This pipe may lead water to a drainage ditch at the boundary of the site, or it may not lead anywhere, ending in a dead end. The task of this pipe is to remove excess water from the barrel, thus increasing the area of ​​water absorption into the soil (irrigation area). The pipe is laid in a trench on a crushed stone pillow and is also covered with crushed stone, and then with soil. The depth of the trench is greater than that of the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. Naturally, the sewer pipe will have to be spoiled with a certain number of holes in the lower part to improve the flow of water, making it look like a drainage pipe. This is not required if the pipe is led into a drainage ditch.

sansamuch.ru

a pipe into a ditch will serve to drain water

The ditch passing by the site is an important element of it.

Firstly, it helps a lot in removing excess water, and not only from this area, but from all that are located above. If the ditch is plugged, increased moisture will be provided to all areas that are located nearby. And with sufficient ditch sizes, increased moisture can also result in flooding. Secondly, if there is a local sewage system, it will have a drain into the ditch - it often makes sense to include part of it in the sewer system. Here you will certainly need a pipe into the ditch - to facilitate the flow of water and more convenient drainage.

It may also be necessary to ensure the free passage of heavy equipment across the ditch. Here, both the strength of the crossing and its width will matter - sometimes heavy equipment has very complex turning radii.

Before the pipe is laid in the ditch, the required diameter and length must be determined, as well as the ditch itself must be prepared. To do this, they clear it, remove plants, unnecessary stones, and other debris. The bottom of the ditch is increased if necessary, and the slope of the pipe must also be determined. Its location should be in the direction of water movement - it cannot stagnate inside. The bottom must be properly rammed.

Among pipes made of different materials, it is best to choose a concrete product - it is designed specifically for these purposes, that is, transportation of atmospheric and domestic wastewater, groundwater, industrial liquid waste, non-aggressive to concrete, and will serve perfectly for a long time.

Pipe laying methods

A concrete pipe is laid in a ditch on a layer of coarse gravel or crushed stone, with a preliminary calculation of the slope to direct water flows. At the backfill, the layer thickness should be no less than 20-30 cm - depending on the size of the pipe, that is, the diameter and length. In order for the stop for the pipe to be uniform in the ditch, it is possible to make a filling from a cement-sand mixture as a leveling layer.

You can use wooden logs instead of crushed stone and gravel, from which knots are previously removed. The pieces of wood are tightly laid on the bottom of the prepared ditch - approximately every 30 cm.

A concrete product laid in a ditch can last much longer if it is pre-treated with a special primer. The finished concrete pipe is sprinkled with sand or selected soil.

If you plan to arrange a check-in at the place where the pipe is located, it is very useful to perform reinforcement at both ends of it. It is carried out as follows: vertical formwork panels are exposed from the ends of the pipe, after which concrete is poured, while maintaining the correct slope from the center to the ends of the product. For this, well-vibrated concrete should be used - its frost resistance is much greater than that of ordinary concrete. The following composition can be used for the mixture: one part of cement, grade 500, three parts of a sand-gravel mixture, a plasticizer additive, which can be purchased at any of the hardware stores. The surface itself can be strengthened by mounting surface decking from concrete sleepers or slabs.

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Another styling option

You can lay a pipe in a ditch in a different way - if you plan to check in at the place where it is located, you should carefully consider the options.

• the prepared ditch is filled with geotextiles;
• the next layer is gravel, and sand on it with a layer of 10-15 cm;
• all this should be well rammed;
• a pipe is laid on the resulting pillow, observing the slope;
• from above, to the very level of the surface, a layer of fabric is laid, then a layer of sand, every 20 cm it is necessary to arrange reinforcement, pour concrete.

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If you take the following measures, you can avoid the occurrence of internal blockages during future operation:

• during installation work, a cable should be passed through the pipe - with further use, this will greatly facilitate the cleaning of the pipe. Instead of a cable, it is permissible to use a synthetic rope that does not respond well to moisture;
• a metal fine-mesh mesh is fixed on both sides of the pipe - it will not allow debris to penetrate inside.

1landscapedesign.ru

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic gutters for the roof - photo and video

Some homeowners are wary of using plastic gutters. In the minds of consumers, the opinion was established that plastic products are less reliable than those made of metal. This material is perceived as a synonym for unreliability, fragility, fragility. However, this statement has not been true for a long time, because modern components for assembling a system for draining melt and rain water from a PVC roof are much superior in terms of service life, tightness and quality to metal counterparts. In this article, we will compare plastic gutters with products made from other materials, discuss the positive aspects and installation rules.

Device and equipment

Modern plastic gutters are made from polyvinyl chloride, a thermoplastic polymer that is a product of petroleum refining. To ensure the flow of water from the roof, manufacturers offer an extensive range of components, by assembling which you can get any configuration. Installation of a roof drain uses the following plastic elements:

1. Gutters. They take the liquid flowing down from the slopes and transfer it to the collection point in the water intake funnel. Such drains, unlike metal ones, have a wider choice of gutter section sizes.
2. Gutter coupling. This is the detail needed to connect the sections of the gutter to each other. The coupling has a shortened length and is mounted using a silicone sealant or a rubber seal.
3. Gutter angle. This gutter element is used to give the gutter the desired direction. The most open parts have a 90 degree angle, however, some manufacturers produce others.
4. Gutter bracket. A plastic holder in the form of a hook, which is fixed to the frontal board and a gutter is inserted into it.
5. Gutter plug. This is to make a plastic drain, which is put on the end of the gutter opposite the water intake funnel, in order to limit the unorganized flow of water.
6. Water funnel. The most important element of the drain, which collects water from the gutter and enters the drain pipe. Outwardly, this detail looks like a short gutter with a funnel-shaped process.
7. Drain pipe. This is the name of a vertically located pipe that connects to a funnel and provides water transfer to a storm sewer.
8. Drain pipe tip. A pipe segment that reduces the rate of water fall, bent in such a way that water flows off the roof smoothly.
9. Bracket for drain pipe. Fastening in the form of a ring, with the help of which the pipe is mounted on the wall.

Unlike metal gutters, plastic ones make it possible to equip a water drain for any roof configuration. Installation is possible even if the angle between the slopes is not 90 degrees, since plastic products can be easily adjusted to size by cutting with a regular hacksaw.

Pros of plastic drain

Plastic drains are still used less frequently than metal ones. However, the use of high-quality material for their production allows raising the efficiency of collecting and transferring water from roof slopes to a new level. To convince of the practicality of PVC drainage systems, it is enough to list their performance characteristics:

Note! The peculiarity of the plastic roof drain is that it changes its volume with temperature changes. This property often causes deformation of their PVC elements during the first frosts, if the installation was carried out without compensation parts. Parts that compensate for the change in size are needed to attach funnels, corners and stops.

disadvantages

Each material for the production of roof gutters has weaknesses that should be known and taken into account when choosing and installing. Despite the undeniable advantages of plastic, elements for assembling drainage systems from it have the following disadvantages:

Important! The abundance of manufacturers and the lack of state control have created a situation in the construction market where the dimensions of parts are not regulated by anyone and vary greatly. For the best fit between the elements of the drain, purchase all components manufactured by the same company.

Mounting technology

The main condition for the effective operation of water flow from the slopes is high-quality, accurate installation in accordance with the requirements of the technology. The installation of the drain begins after the assembly of the truss frame and the installation of the crate. To protect the wood of the rafters from moisture penetration, they are covered with an additional layer of waterproofing. To install plastic gutters, proceed as follows:

Note! Manufacturers recommend installing plastic gutters +5 degrees or more. This is necessary so that the plastic elements reach their normal dimensions. To prevent damage to the drain when the temperature rises or falls, compensation parts are used and the screws are not screwed in completely, leaving a gap.

Video instruction

krovlyakrishi.ru

Drainage from the roof - features of the installation of drainage systems of various types

To protect the facade of the building from rain splashes and to drain water from the adjacent territory in buildings with a pitched roof, an organized drainage from the roof is arranged.

The structure of the gutter system of a house with a pitched roof

Manufacturers offer several options for modular systems, differing mainly in the material from which they are made:

• Since Soviet times, a storm system made of galvanized steel has been customary. Today, better products have appeared, but galvanization is still popular.

Traditionally, just such wide funnels were used. They are ugly, but the wide "throat" compensates for the low accuracy of manufacturing products and their installation.

In galvanized steel roofs, there are often no horizontal gutters, only funnels and downspouts. The flow of water is directed by gutters made on the cornice overhang of the roof itself. Such a solution is laborious, inefficient for roofs with a large slope. However, due to the fact that there are no horizontal elements that can be damaged by falling snow and icicles, it is more reliable and safe.

Galvanized steel roof drainage without gutters is reliable, but difficult to perform

Of the positive aspects, one can name the great strength of the structure (steel from 1 to 2 mm is used), low cost and the possibility of manufacturing individual products of any shape.

Scheme of a traditional gutter made of galvanized steel

Cons: Galvanization is not very attractive. Pipes rust, already in the second or third year, starting from the ends, corrosion spreads. The service life is up to 15-30 years, if the pipes are periodically painted with oil paints from the outside. The geometry of the products is not ideal, the joints of the elements do not always fit tightly. Traditionally, gutters and drains were connected by rolling, which gave a strong connection. Today, they prefer to seal the seam with sealant.

Today you can find a gutter made of galvanized steel with three types of funnels: traditional with a wide mouth and more modern: overhead and through

• Gutter system made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.6-0.7 mm with a polymer coating, the shape of the products is round or rectangular.

Metal system with zinc-polymer coating. You can clearly see how you can combine gutters on complex roofs

The buyer is offered a choice of many colors that can exactly match the metal roofing. Such a storm drain looks neat, the accuracy of manufacturing products is high, it is possible to order individual products. Service life 25-50 years depending on the type of metal.

During the installation process, you need to protect the steel from scratches.

• Gutters made of copper, aluminum and steel with a zinc-titanium coating are rather exotic for now.

A copper drain will darken over time and become covered with a malachite-colored film. In addition to solid copper products, copper-plated steel systems are available.

• Plastic drain systems, depending on the design, can be connected in two different ways: with adhesive or with rubber seals. Pipes of a wide variety of configurations, the color palette is not rich. Service life up to 30 years.

The plastic storm system has the neatest appearance and the best sealing of the joints.

Undoubted advantages: ease of installation, low weight, the best tightness among all systems, neat appearance, moderate cost.

Negative: plastic is afraid of extreme frosts, is more fragile than steel and can be damaged by snowmobile.

It is necessary to draw up a diagram of the roof, initially determine two points: the location of the funnels and the diameter of the gutters. Gutters with diameters of 8, 10 and 12.5 cm are more common.

The distance between the funnels should not exceed 24 meters. The best option is 8-12 meters so that the overall slope of the gutters is not too great. It is necessary to check the ability of the pipe to drain water. Having placed the funnels on the diagram, the roof must be conditionally divided into sections served by various drains. For one square (in horizontal projection, not in area) meter of the roof, there should be 1.5 cm2 of the cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe funnel and drain. For example, a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm has a cross-sectional area of ​​​​78.5 cm2 and is able to divert stormwater from a roof whose horizontal projection is 52 m2. For dry areas and regions with high rainfall, adjustments are made.

Approximately such a plan needs to be drawn, put down the dimensions and calculate the area of ​​​​the drain sections for each drain

Having a general scheme, you can contact the suppliers, the manager will help you make a calculation. Or download or use the online program for calculating the gutter on the manufacturer's website.

There are two types of fastening of horizontal gutters:

• The first is with the help of metal hooks that are mounted on the base of the roof. The brackets must be secured before the roof covering is laid. This option is reliable, it must be used for heavy gutters, in snowy regions. Hooks lead to the base of the roof at different distances in order to provide the necessary slope of the gutter. The locations of the funnels must be determined in advance.

Gutter brackets are mounted on top of the roof base. For all installation work, only self-tapping screws should be used.

• The second option - the brackets are fixed to the front (end) board or rafters. The solution is less reliable, the screws can be pulled out with great effort. In addition, such hook-holders are used for plastic systems, they themselves are also made of polymer. In most models, the holders are designed for installation only on a strictly vertical surface. Mounting them to the frontal board is simple, convenient, and is done at any time after the roof is ready, the cornice overhangs are hemmed. The slope of the gutter is achieved by installing holders at different heights. It can be recommended in cases where there is no danger of snow drift from the roof.

Gutter brackets are mounted on the vertical surface of the frontal board

So, let's start with mounting the brackets. For the first option (attached to the roof base), the hook-bracket must first be bent in accordance with the slope of the roof.

Installation of brackets on the roof base. It is necessary to observe the general slope and do not forget to control the position of the hooks with a level

First we attach the brackets that will support the funnels. Then we divide the gaps between the downpipes by the minimum distance between the hooks (0.6 for plastic and 0.9 m for metal). Having marked, we stretch the cord in order to give a uniform slope of the gutters to the drain funnels.

Installation of horizontal elements and installation of the elbow

In some systems, the funnels are mounted first, in others, on the contrary, the gutter is installed first. Markup starts from the funnel. The length of the gutters is often 3 or 4 meters, the last ones in the gutter line have to be cut off. Plastic is cut with a hacksaw, metal - only with high-quality metal scissors. In no case not with a grinder, otherwise the steel will quickly rust. A cap completes the line of gutters; connector or turn internal or external.

The complete process of installing a storm drain. Don't forget to follow the safety rules

Gutter connections can be different: on seals, glueless, adhesive, sealed with silicone. You must follow the instructions. As a rule, the funnel is installed taking into account possible thermal expansions, that is, the joint has a gap for deformation. This must be taken into account immediately.

To go from a funnel to a vertical drain, you need to install two elbows and one straight section. The distance of the drain and the lower elbow to the wall is determined by the manufacturer.

Thus, you can find out the required length of the straight section of the knee

Installation of gutters is not difficult. As a rule, they have a length of 4 meters, they are easily joined.

If water is drained from the house superficially, on the blind area, in the lower part of the drain we put the usual mark - a knee with a large extension at an angle of 45 °.

The drain directs the water away from the building, and the lower edge of the pipe should be placed 15-20 cm higher

If the territory is equipped with an underground storm system, the drain can be introduced directly into the storm well. Round pipes of plastic drains best correspond to this option.

If the drain is planned to be led into a storm well, round pipes with a diameter of 10 cm are the best choice.

• There are many different types, brands and varieties of drainage systems. Although they are similar in general, they differ in details. During the installation process, it is necessary to study and keep with you the work manual, which can be obtained from the dealer or downloaded from the manufacturer's website.
• In snowy areas, it is mandatory to carry out snow retention measures for slippery types of roofing (all types of metal roofing, except for composite). For other types of roofs, snow retention is desirable. Heating the gutter with an electrical cable will minimize the chance of damage to the gutter.

Snow retainers will protect not only people, but also the drainage system from snowmelt

Draining from a roof using a modular system is within the power of anyone who is not afraid of heights and has minimal building skills. Particular attention must be paid to the exact marking of the brackets. It is not worth taking on a drainage device from a roof made of galvanized steel sheets without gutters, without experience in working with a fold.

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A pipe or ditch for draining some kind of liquid

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Device and types of drainage systems
Materials for the production of water from the roof
Installation of pipes and drainage vessels

The service life of any roof depends on various factors - the quality of the materials used, the approach to calculations, installation technology and external influences. One such factor is the drainage of water from the roof, where the misplaced structure is regularly exposed to moisture.

A properly designed and properly assembled roof drainage system is an important element of roof construction and requires a lot of attention. This article talks about how to properly equip water drainage from the roof.

Device and types of drainage systems

Structurally, each drainage system consists of pipes, drains and river basins. In these elements, the water from the roof surface is directed into the storm, where its impact does not damage the building in any way.

There are three main drainage schemes:

1. Unorganized rainwater drainage from the roof. This design, also referred to as spontaneous, according to its name, provides an independent discharge of water from the roof. The specificity of the spontaneous drainage channel is simplicity - to ensure that the drainage does not have to be installed on anything.

   The problem is that liquid water undermines the structure, damages the end of the walls and has a negative effect on the waterproofing layer.

2. Organized external drainage from the roof. This is a classic design consisting of drainage pipes, gutters and several funnels that are connected to a sewer storm system.

   Due to the installation of organized external drainage water, water is collected from all cones and removed from the roof surface. External drainage is quite easy to install and maintain.

3. Organized internal drainage from rain from the roof. The main difference between internal drainage and external drainage is the installation of structural elements in the building itself so that it is not visible.

   This washbasin is usually arranged in case of flat roofs. Installing an internal drain channel is complex and will be very difficult to maintain, especially if errors occur during installation.

Materials for the production of water from the roof

To install the drainage system, various materials are used, the choice of which directly affects the cost of the structure and its durability. In order for components to do their job well, they need sufficient resistance to moisture, resistance to temperature changes and a long service life.

In most cases, roof drainage is equipped with the following materials:

1. Galvanized steel.

   Steel is more commonly used for draining water. The high popularity is in no way due to the fact that it is possible to choose not only the final structural elements, but also the independent production of sheet metal.

   Galvanized steel fits the bill: fully resists corrosion, slows down external factors safely, and lasts more than 15 years safely.

   The only disadvantage of steel products is the heavy weight, which makes installation difficult and puts a lot of stress on the roof frame.

2. plastic. Polymer elements are very suitable for installing a drainage system. For most of the benefits of steel parts, plastic is characterized by lower prices, much lighter weight, and a wider color range that allows you to choose the right roof color. Install the plastic roof drain, which is very simple - installation will not cause problems and all the necessary elements are included.

   The biggest disadvantage of polymer products is their poor resistance to significant temperature changes.

3. baker. Drainage copper components are mostly high cost, so they are rarely used. However, the high cost is fully justified - copper does not completely wet moisture and can work for more than a hundred years without the slightest mistrust.

   The main disadvantage of copper parts is the weight that is typical for all metal products, so it is necessary to strengthen the frame and box.

When choosing materials for installing a drainage system, you need to push up the roof.

Retractable roof, metal roofs and profiled sheets are best equipped with a plastic-coated steel outlet. For soft top coatings, actual plastic roof drainage pipes are suitable for copper components for the drainage system.

Before choosing drainage pipes for the roof, you must calculate their dimensions depending on the climatic conditions and roof parameters. As practice shows, pipes with a diameter of 50-70 mm and a groove with a diameter of 70-120 mm are suitable for small buildings.

Installation of pipes and drainage vessels

To get out of the water from the roof was possible, you need to follow two factors:

• The presence of inclination in the collecting currents;
• Density.

If these factors occur, all parts of the data acquisition system will be correctly installed correctly.

During installation, the following rules must be followed and observed:

1. If the drainage is heavy, it is necessary to strengthen the frame at the points where the drainage elements are attached.

   The plastic outlet can be attached to the edges, but the metal pieces are attached to the rafters.

2. A layer of waterproofing must be laid between the drainage gutter and the rafters. The material is chosen individually: as a waterproofing, it can act as a plastic film and various bituminous creams.
3. Drainage elements are determined on all sections of the roof.

   Drain or drain pipe of any liquid

   The drainage gut is attached with a slight slope for trapping.

4. The gutter is connected using special brackets. The groove should be half under the roof canopy, while the others go out. Such a device will ensure efficient collection of liquid and prevent the destruction of the building from the destroyed snow masses.
5. Vertical lifts are attached to the corners of the building.

   At these points, a fan is supplied (if not, water tanks or placed sandbags are installed). The distance between the edge of the drainage pipe and the floor should be up to 50 cm.

6. The mounting brackets are installed in 50-60 cm increments. For a large structure, the spacing between applications must be further reduced.

The drainage system can function properly and should be regularly monitored and maintained.

If the roof drains are properly installed, they should only be cleaned once a season. During the maintenance process, you must ensure that there is no leakage and if found, take corrective action.

conclusion

Drainage of water from the roof occurs through the drainage system. The right choice of materials and a well-executed installation will create a reliable system that can perform all its tasks efficiently.

Features of the drainage device
Types of tides for draining water from the roof
Requirements for installing drainage systems with your own hands
How to install and fix ebbs

During rain or during the process of snow melting, water streams begin to flow from the roof, which can damage the roofing and the facade of the building. If this happens constantly, the walls and foundation of the house will sooner or later be destroyed. To avoid such problems, you need to equip a drainage system from the roof.

Thanks to the installation of structures that quickly divert water flows from the slopes, a private house will stand for more than a decade.

Installation of the elements of which they consist is a simple job even for a novice home craftsman. Therefore, you can install drainage for the roof on your own.

Features of the drainage device

Gutters are called drains having a cross section:

• round;
• rectangular;
• triangular (in rare cases).

Water streams flow down from the slopes. Some homeowners think that their use is not necessary, since the roof is designed so that precipitation is redirected by gravity from the ridge to the edges of the overhang.

But this is not so: if the installation of drainage systems on the roof is not made, the flowing moisture does not have a purposeful movement - this process occurs chaotically and thus the facade of the building is in danger of destruction. Precipitation penetrates into places where the roof connects to the walls, and destroy the blind area.

Professionals believe that the optimal cross-sectional shape for drainage is a rounded configuration, since in this case there are no hard-to-reach corners clogged with debris and dirt.

The presence of blockages requires the owners to clean the gutter structure more often.

If you do not install roof tides with your own hands or with the help of specialists, a spontaneously moving stream creates puddles around the house, where paths are usually paved.

A well-equipped drainage system can solve the above problems. It also allows you to collect melt and rain water and use it for watering your garden.

Currently, models of drainage systems of different colors are on sale, which allow you to choose the design for finishing the facade or roofing.

Types of tides for draining water from the roof

When the mass production of gutters did not yet exist, it was necessary to make drainage from the roof with your own hands, adapting pipes cut in half for this purpose. Today, specialized stores offer a wide selection of drainage structures, the installation of which can be completed in the shortest possible time.

The most popular are drainage systems made of the following materials:

1. Aluminum.

   Metal gutters made of it are light in weight, so they do not require reinforced fasteners. The disadvantage of aluminum products is that it reacts with water, oxidizes and begins to break down over time.

   Gutters need to be covered with a protective agent every season.

2. Copper. To make an ebb for the pipe on the roof, oxidized copper is used, which is resistant to corrosion.

   Drain pipe t, 5-letter words

   This durable material has a noble color. In this case, the elements of the drainage system are of considerable weight and therefore it is very difficult to install them yourself. Copper drains are expensive.

3. Alloy steel.

   Galvanized gutters are considered one of the best options for arranging gutters because they are affordable and have anti-corrosion properties. But in case of damage to the upper layer of the elements of the drainage structure, the metal begins to break down as a result of oxidative reactions upon contact with precipitation.

   When installing galvanized gutters, one should not forget about their large weight and therefore the brackets must be fastened more often.

4. Plastic. Plastic roof drains are becoming more and more popular among roofing fittings. They are lightweight and can be easily installed by hand. Plastic elements are joined without gaps. Their disadvantage is that in severe frosts, the products become brittle and become covered with cracks.

All metal shimmers have a high degree of resonant ability, due to which the noise level from falling raindrops irritates the ear.

To eliminate this defect, galvanized elements are industrially coated with a polymer coating that helps dampen loud sounds.

Requirements for installing drainage systems with your own hands

High-quality installation requires compliance with certain rules:

1. In order for the ebbs to function effectively, it is necessary to have a slope in the direction of the water intake funnels and pipes.

   It is made at the rate of 1-3 centimeters per linear meter.

2. The size of the section of the gutter is determined based on the size of the slopes. If the roof has a surface of about 90 "squares", use ebbs having an 8-centimeter diameter.

   The larger the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slopes, the greater this parameter should be at the gutter.

3. Ebbs are mounted below the edge of the overhang by at least 3 centimeters so that they are not torn off when snow masses descend from the slopes.
4. Vertically laid drainpipes, which serve to move water from low tides to storm sewer elements, are located at intervals of 5–6 meters.

   If the house has a complex configuration, they are made at each of the corners of the roof.

5. To prevent drops from the gutter from falling under the roofing material, a drip is installed.
6. To know how many meters of ebb you need to purchase, calculate the perimeter of the building and add 10 - 15% for trimming and overlapping at the joints of the elements.
7. When choosing a gutter, take into account how to fix the ebbs according to the technology.

   Funnels, brackets and pipes should be selected, which should be of a similar material.

How to install and fix ebbs

Before installing the roof drains, the brackets are attached to the rafters before the waterproofing layer is laid.

Only in the case when the roof does not have an overhang or it is small, then the ebb is fixed on the wall or on the cornice board.

Roof drains are usually installed in the following sequence:

1. After the construction of the truss system is completed, a cord is pulled along the bottom of the slope, taking into account the slope of the gutter.
2. Brackets are fixed on the crate with a step of 50-70 centimeters.
3. If the drainage system is copper or galvanized and heavy, the crate at the place where the brackets are fixed must be reinforced with boards 50x150 mm in size.
4. After completing the mounting of the brackets, proceed to the installation of the ebb.

   Gutter modules are placed in fasteners, joining them together. The joints for the purpose of waterproofing are treated with a sealant.

After the roof drains are installed with their own hands, they check the functioning of the drainage system.