Insulation for walls under drywall. The better to insulate the house from the inside under drywall

Finishing a wooden house with drywall allows you to hide all the roughness of the interior space, which are typical for buildings and structures built from this material. It is worth noting that the use of GKL or GVL in construction significantly reduces the time to complete the work. Well, do not forget that the installation of sheets can be done on their own. Due to these properties, this material has gained wide popularity among fans of self-repair.

But you have to start somewhere else! Mounting a frame for drywall in a wooden house is the first step towards perfectly even walls. Only with the high-quality implementation of this stage of interior decoration, you can be sure of the reliability and durability of future walls. In addition, the arrangement of the frame can be combined with such an important and often simply necessary event as the insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside.

In order to equip a frame from a profile for drywall, you will need:
1. Perforator or drill.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Metal shears for profile cutting. For these purposes, you can also use a grinder or a jigsaw with a special file.
4. Building level.
5. Construction tongs.
6. Construction thread.
7. Plumb.
8. Metal profiles CD and UD.
9. Rolls of insulation.
10. Screws, nails, dowels.
All these tools should be prepared even before the actual installation of the frame for drywall begins. Otherwise, in the process of work, you may encounter various kinds of inconvenience.
Step-by-step preparation of a log house for plasterboard finishing

1. You should start by marking the territory for attaching metal profiles. We do this with the help of a bright construction thread. On the floor, from one edge of the wall to the other, we strongly pull the thread, stepping back 5 centimeters in advance, and release it. We do the same with the ceiling. When the thread is fixed and clearly visible, we apply the building level and make sure that it is located strictly perpendicular to the line on the floor and on the ceiling. It is important to place it exactly perpendicular and observe where the air is in the device. If in the middle - the wall is even, if it is displaced - there are deviations, so one of the threads will have to be moved until the building level air indicator is centered. After determining a clear vertical, you should draw lines on the floor and on the ceiling, which will act as boundaries.
2. The starting profile is attached according to the markup. To do this, the floor and profile are drilled with a perforator together. Further, a dowel and a nail are hammered into the resulting hole.
3. Now we fix the crate from the CD profile, which, in turn, is inserted into the UD profile. They should be fastened with self-tapping screws.
4. A hole is drilled in the wall with a puncher and a dowel-nail is hammered into it. At the same time, we bend the ears of the suspension perpendicular to the wall. With the help of self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, the ears are attached to the CD profile.
5. Installation of a profile for drywall is carried out along the entire length of the wall at a distance of 40–60 cm (depending on the dimensions of the room).
6. After the frame from the drywall profile is completed, you can start warming. To do this, we measure the required length of the heat-insulating material. Usually it is equal to the height of the walls plus 5 cm. And with our hands we push the cut piece between the profiles, leaving no free space.
Thus, it is not difficult to prepare a log house for plasterboard finishing if you delve into this matter well.

Is it dangerous to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside?

The tree has pretty good thermal insulation properties, so until recently, few people have done such actions. In corners, doors and windows, there is a problem of heat loss, because the logs are not located closely. But this is not the main problem, because moisture gets into these gaps, which contributes to the appearance of fungi and rot of logs.
There is another side of the coin. Wood is the only material that can breathe. The insulation will close all the cracks, not allowing excess air to escape. Thus, the tree will be steamed, which can lead to a short lifespan. Only high-quality heaters have the necessary properties to evaporate all excess.
Of course, it is necessary to insulate wooden houses, but only with high-quality models of heaters, because by choosing a heat-insulating material with inappropriate parameters, you can personally shorten the life of your home.

If it is not possible to insulate the outside, then the best way out is to insulate the walls from the inside with foam and drywall.

Many people are faced with freezing walls in apartments, private houses, on balconies or basements. The problem is solved by installing insulation on the outside of the building, but sometimes it is more expedient, cheaper and more reliable to do it from the inside.

When insulating walls, there is one significant disadvantage - the frame and insulation eat up space.

Choosing a heater

Foam plastic, mineral wool, foam plastic are used as a heat-insulating material.

• Styrofoam is an artificial material. It is characterized by medium hygroscopicity, thermal conductivity and density. Flammable without special additives. They are insulated with external walls, balconies, basement floors.
• Mineral wool is a time-tested material. It is characterized by high hygroscopicity and an average degree of thermal conductivity. Rarely used as a drywall insulation for interiors.
• Penoplex is a modern material obtained by thermal processing of foam. It is characterized by low hygroscopicity and thermal conductivity. Has a high density. Thanks to special additives, it practically does not burn. They insulate apartments, balconies, basement floors.

The optimal insulation for interior work is penoplex.

Insulation from the inside: pros and cons

Wall insulation with drywall from the inside is a technology that goes against the basics of heat engineering. However, there are situations when it is impossible to perform work outside. In this case, this technology is indispensable.

Of the minuses can be noted:

• Dew point offset. It is highly likely that the walls will get wet.
• Reducing the volume of the room. The metal frame, insulation and drywall "eat up" the usable area.
• Reducing the threshold of ultimate loads on the wall. The insulation has a lower density than brick or concrete. When mounting heavy shelves on an insulated wall, anchoring may be required.

Warming methods

After choosing the material, the question arises of how to insulate the wall with drywall with your own hands. In home practice, two methods are used:

• Frameless.
• Frame.

There are two ways to insulate a wall: frameless and with a frame, the first is possible only in small areas.

Frameless way

A common type of insulation. No metal or wood frame needed. It is used for warming small flat surfaces: interior walls of apartments in prefabricated houses, basement floors, garages; balconies and loggias.

Consider the sequence of actions for warming:

1. Preparing the wall for pasting with foam.
   For the frameless method, you need a flat surface, without strong potholes.
   Let's start work on wall cladding with drywall with insulation from wallpaper, plaster, paint. If it is necessary to paste over an unplastered brick wall, then we knock down all the protruding masonry mortar.
   A loose base made of old plaster can be treated with concrete contact. This will strengthen him.
   Potholes and cracks are sealed with cement-sand mortar. We mix it on the spot or buy ready-made in bags.
2. Penoplex installation.
   We use for this "Penoplex-35", which has all the necessary properties. The standard sheet size is 600 × 1200 mm, thickness is 20 - 100 mm. As glue, we use special formulations that can be bought at the store. In extreme cases, tile adhesive will do.
   Before gluing, we process the surface of the sheet with a stiff brush. This will increase the coefficient of adhesion between the wall and the insulation.
   The glue is applied in a thin layer over the entire area using a corrugated spatula.
   We start pasting from the bottom corner. First we apply the sheet, press a little, hold for a few seconds. Then we let go.
   Butt seams are treated with silicone glue. If their width is more than 5 mm, then we close it with mounting foam.
   Additionally, you can fix the insulation with plastic dowels. The number of attachment points is 3–4 per 1 m2.
3. Drywall installation.
   We use dry glue mixed with water.
   We apply it with a notched trowel to the entire surface or in strips. It freezes within 24 hours.
   Drywall with insulation can be separated by a layer of vapor barrier. The best option is penosol. Its shiny surface reflects heat from the interior. Condensation does not form. One "but": drywall cannot be glued to penosol. First you need to mount the frame.
4. Finishing.
   We glue the seams between the sheets with masking tape. Then we putty, paint or wallpaper the wall.

Frame method

Insulation of the wall with foam plastic and lining it with plasterboard along the frame are relevant for large uneven walls.

For frame wall insulation, there is no need to clean or level the walls.

1. Surface preparation.
   You can not clean it, do not cover up small potholes. If necessary, pre-scatter the wiring.
2. Frame installation.
   It comes in metal and wood. The metal profile is popular with consumers. Its size depends on the thickness of the insulation.
   First we mount the lower rails, then the upper ones. We fasten them to the wall and ceiling with the help of self-tapping dowels 40 - 50 mm in increments of 2 - 3 pcs. at 1 m p.
   Then we install vertical racks. First, insert them into the guide profile. Then fasten to the wall with hangers. Mounting on suspensions levels out all the irregularities of the wall. The step of installing vertical racks depends on the size of the insulation sheet. In our case, this is 600 mm.
   A wooden frame for wall insulation from the inside with drywall is mounted according to the same rules as a metal one.
   We treat wooden bars with an antiseptic. This will avoid rotting, mold and mildew.
3. Heater installation.
   We process one side of the foam sheet with a metal brush to improve adhesion to the wall. Apply glue to the sheet with a notched trowel. Then we insert it into the gap between the vertical posts, press and hold for a few seconds. After we release. The glue will dry in about 24 hours.
   Seams are sealed with silicone sealant. If they are wide, then use mounting foam.
   The metal profile is a bridge of cold. We fill the profile cavities with pieces of insulation or foam to avoid freezing.
4. Installation of drywall sheets.
   We apply each sheet to a metal profile or a wooden beam. Then we fasten it with self-tapping screws measuring 20 - 25 mm. A layer of vapor barrier can be glued between the outer skin and the insulation.
5. Finishing. We putty the finished surface, paint, paste over with wallpaper.

The proposed technologies will help to insulate the wall and sheathe it with drywall. The main thing is to follow the rules and not violate the technology of work.

September 2, 2016
Specialization: master of interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, wall paneling, laminate, and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

In fact, the technology of wall insulation with drywall from the inside largely depends on the wall itself, that is, on its thickness and the presence of insulation from the street. Nevertheless, the installation technique itself does not depend on these parameters and remains unchanged, so I want to fix the main direction precisely on technical conditions.

I will tell you about three possible and simple ways, materials and show a video in this article.

Warming under plasterboard

A few words about drywall: it can be wall (GKLS), ceiling (GKLP), moisture resistant (GKLV) and fire resistant (GKLO). In addition, there are also reinforced gypsum-fiber sheets (GKL) and moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheets (GVLV).

About materials and efficiency

By and large, two heaters are used for gypsum boards - this is polystyrene foam and mineral wool:

• polystyrene is a material made by gas filling plastic mass and in this case, these are panels 1000 × 1000 mm and a thickness of 20 mm, 30 mm, 40 mm, 50 mm and 100 mm;
• there are two types of density, which is used in households, and in most industrial premises - these are 15kg / m3 and 25kg / m3 (its price is higher);
• so, there is little difference in thermal conductivity, but it is very clearly visible during installation - the fifteenth sheets crumble heavily when cut, crumbling into granules, while the twenty-fifths behave quite worthy;
• thickness is selected depending on the need in a particular case.

Mineral wool is different:

• such a general concept as mineral wool can mean three types of material, that is, made from different melts - GOST 31913-2011 (EN ISO 9229:2007);
• there is glass wool, which is made from cullet melts, quartz sand and other materials that are used to make glass;
• there is slag wool - such a product is made from melted blast-furnace slag, which, of course, remains in the metallurgical industry;
• there is stone wool - it is made from a melt of basalt (this is volcanic lava) and the product itself has a gray-yellow color;
• in addition, any mineral wool can be foil-coated on one side, and also produced in rolls or in blocks (panels).

For external insulation, as well as for insulating rooms with high humidity, it is best to use basalt wool. Glass wool is dangerous for the respiratory tract, therefore. It is inconvenient during installation, and slag contains particles of iron - they rust and the material sags, losing its properties.

Outside or inside

Pay attention to the diagram shown above - here the insulation is installed outside, and the dew point (condensation formation during temperature changes) falls on the insulation layer. That is, the load-bearing wall is protected from the influence of temperature changes and air humidity, which helps to increase the operational life of the building.

In the event that the walls are insulated from the inside with a mineral plate plus drywall or other cladding, the dew point moves. And it, as a rule, is between the insulation and the wall.

That is, you get a problem - fungal mold under insulation. Therefore, with internal insulation, you should pay attention to two factors - the thickness of the wall or the presence of insulation from the outside. As you understand, the best option is when the wall is insulated on both sides, or when it has sufficient thickness.

Installation: 1 way

Mineral wool or foam plastic can be installed between the profiles, and it does not matter what they are made of - metal or wood. Usually foam panels are used for this, but mineral wool blocks can also be used.

Most importantly, these panels fit snugly against the profiles. That is, in fact, this is their fixation. If it is mineral wool, where the panel does not have rigidity, then fungal dowels are used, which press the material against the rough surface.

Installation: 2 way

Another method, however, it is suitable exclusively for mineral wool. And it's not that this is an instruction - this is an installation technique (rigid foam).

A heater is installed on the mounted crate and tucked under the profiles. The method is certainly effective, but due to the weak zone in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe profile or bar, the insulation power is lost - this is the most convenient finishing of the loggia with drywall with insulation.

Installation: 3 way

And, finally, the third method, which is the most effective, but at the same time, does not differ from the first two methods in terms of labor intensity, is the installation of insulation under the profiles (here it can be both polystyrene and mineral wool).

The bottom line is that the material is mounted on the brackets (it is held on them) and only then the profiles are mounted - this method also automatically leaves a gap.

You may also need a heater for plasterboard partitions - in 99% it is mineral wool, which is mounted between the sheets.

Conclusion

Installing any of the heaters with your own hands under the GKL is quite simple, but at the same time try not to leave any free areas. Maybe you have something to offer on the topic - feel free to write your comment.

It is not always possible to make thermal insulation of a high-rise building; special equipment is needed. However, wall insulation from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall gives a good result, heat loss is reduced by 20-30%. It is only important to make a heat-insulating layer in the apartment according to the technology.

Do-it-yourself wall insulation with drywall requires the right selection of materials. Savings and choosing components that do not correspond to technology will make thermal insulation useless and money spent in vain.

To make high-quality insulation you will need:

1. Wall plasterboard.
2. or wooden slats.
3. Insulation.
4. Mounting materials.

Drywall and profile

Drywall can be used to insulate walls from the inside of the room; they are either wall-mounted or moisture-resistant. The latter type is used for rooms with a high level of humidity: kitchens or bathrooms.

Wall types of drywall are suitable for living rooms where the humidity does not exceed the threshold of 70%. marked in blue on a gray surface.

The main types of drywall
Foam insulation

Penoplex is an extruded foam, but with high density and strength. Wall insulation with foam plastic will cost more, the price per square meter is about 200 rubles.

Foam insulation

Another good option for insulation is isolon, or polyethylene foam. Its price is 280-300 rubles. per square meter.

Thermal insulation performance when using one or another type of material will depend on compliance with the installation rules and the thickness of the insulation.

Insulation with isolon

From fasteners you will need to purchase for fixing, and for connecting the guide rails to each other (fleas).

The assembly of the frame begins with the installation of guides, which are made from a UD profile. These rails are mounted on the floor and ceiling in parallel, stepping back from the walls 50-60 mm. The space under the frame will be used for laying the heat insulator.

Fixation of the guides is carried out by using a nail-type dowel, which provides reliable fastening to brickwork and any other.

After installing the profiles on the floor and ceiling, proceed to the installation of rails from the CD profile. These planks are the basis for . So that they are rigidly fixed to the wall, direct suspensions are mounted, they are also. For a standard apartment with a ceiling height of 2.5-2.6 meters, 3-4 hangers are enough for one profile.

The installation of the main rails of the frame is carried out as follows. The segment is inserted into the guides. The ends are fixed using small “flea” screws. From the sides, the edges of the suspensions are folded, which are also connected to the rails. The step between the profiles of the frame is observed so that there are 3-4 slats per sheet of drywall.

To strengthen the rigidity of the entire structure, it is necessary to make transverse jumpers from the same material (CD profile). This is done according to the following algorithm.

Jumper to reinforce the structure

The profile is measured and cut so that its length overlaps the neighboring rivers by half. Scissors for metal cut off the shelves. The resulting blanks are fixed with “fleas” on the frame.

When the frame is completed, proceed to the laying of the heat insulator.

Wall insulation

Most often, the material for wall insulation is foam or mineral wool. The technology for laying them is almost the same, but it is better to insulate the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall.

The heat insulator is cut into pieces according to the dimensions corresponding to the cells of the frame formed by the profile.

The foam is attached to a special glue, which is prepared with the addition of water. Each individual piece should fit snugly with the adjacent one. If gaps form between them, they are filled with mounting foam. After the adhesive has dried. The foam plastic is additionally fixed with plastic dowel umbrellas. In this case, the fasteners are carried out end-to-end so that the caps fasten adjacent sheets, and 1-2 dowels are hammered in the middle.

Warming with wool is carried out according to a similar technology. Only the roll of insulator is cut to the full length of the cell. Mineral wool is also attached to glue with the addition of dowels.

After laying the internal thermal insulation, proceed to.

Read also

Sheathing walls made of aerated concrete with plasterboard sheets

GKL installation

For fixing drywall, you need to purchase self-tapping screws. Their number is calculated based on the fact that. Self-tapping screws need to be chosen a little longer, approximately 20 mm. Of course, you can also buy 16 mm screws, but when fixing, the situation is not ruled out when, when screwing in, the tip will bend the profile surface without drilling into it. Longer screws eliminate this possibility.

This is how drywall should be attached to the profile

You will also need a screwdriver and quality bits.

Installation of drywall sheets is carried out according to this algorithm. The material is laid on the frame and the lower corner is fixed. Next, screw the screws in order to the opposite end of the sheet (not all corners at once!).

When the lower and upper sections are fixed, they are fastened to the main rails of the frame. In this case, the step between the screws should not exceed 250-300 mm.

When a screw is screwed in, its head should be slightly recessed by 1-1.5 mm. Just don't break through the cardboard! To simplify the fixing task, it is better to purchase bits with a limiter.

Upon completion of the sheathing, the surfaces are prepared for final finishing.

Insulation without frame

Insulation of walls with drywall from the inside is not always possible with the assembly of the frame. You can carry out insulation without a foundation.

Initially, the walls are prepared for fastening sheets of insulation. All fragile areas are restored, and the surfaces are treated with an antiseptic.

Applying an antiseptic

Styrofoam or cotton wool is fixed, as in the previous version, that is, an adhesive mixture and plastic dowel nails.

Drywall sheets are mounted using a gypsum mounting mixture of the Perlfix type. Glue is prepared with the addition of water and thorough mixing with a mixer. A mounting mixture is pointwise applied to the surface of the GKL, and the material is pressed against the insulated wall. Additionally, fixation is provided with self-tapping screws.

Wall insulation without installing a profile frame

However, this method of plasterboard sheathing with insulation should be used only as a last resort. The presence of a frame base provides a higher level of structural reliability, despite various influences: humidity, tension and other loads.

Insulation of walls with drywall from the inside is one of the ways in which it is possible to retain heat best. With it, there is no need to lay additional insulation, since drywall sheets retain heat very well on their own. In this article I will tell you what is useful to you and how to insulate the walls with drywall.

Wall insulation with drywall from the inside has its advantages, but also a significant disadvantage: the usable area of ​​​​your apartment decreases. However, this method is quite common.

It should be selected when:

• there is no technical possibility to insulate from the outside;
• external insulation is available, but it does not provide the desired effect.

One may wonder: what kind of insulation can we talk about if drywall itself does not belong to heaters at all? So it is, but at the same time, smooth and even drywall sheets are ideal in terms of laying any heat-insulating material on them.

True, I can say that the drywall itself indirectly also plays an important role in warming the room. This is due to the fact that an “air cushion” is formed between it and the insulation, which transmits heat very poorly.

Necessary tool and material

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare tools and materials so as not to be distracted in the process.

So, you will need:

1. foam plastic (its thickness will depend on the degree of insulation that you need);
2. adhesive composition (if you work with the frameless method);
3. spatula-comb;
4. primer emulsion;
5. level;
6. rule;
7. drill;
8. nozzle called "mixer";
9. dowels for fixing foam (if the insulation is made by screwing);
10. self-tapping dowels;
11. vapor barrier film;
12. plaster mesh;
13. suspension plates;
14. metal profiles to strengthen the frame or wall insulation if mineral wool is used.

The choice of internal insulation

Let's talk about insulation under drywall sheets. Basically, there are three types of insulating materials that are well suited for this business. This includes:

1. basalt wool;
2. glass wool;
3. Styrofoam.

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Due to the constant debate among experts about how dangerous polystyrene and polystyrene foam are to health, their use is not as widespread now as it used to be.

The external similarity of basalt and glass wool is undeniable, but at the same time they have many differences that you need to pay attention to. The first is, of course, composition. The basis of glass wool is glass fibers, the basis of basalt wool is a rock of igneous origin. Second: the coefficient of thermal conductivity. For basalt wool, this indicator is lower than that of the "opponent", so it manages to retain heat much better.

A significant difference between these two materials is still visible in terms of refractoriness. Glass wool, when exposed to fire and high temperature, simply sinters into a single mass, and basalt wool remains practically unchanged.

In work, again, basalt wool is more convenient than glass wool. Very thin glass wool fibers can cause unpleasant itching, so you should take good care of protective clothing, goggles, gloves and a respirator. When working with basalt wool, it is enough to wear only gloves.

Important! If glass wool fibers come into contact with the skin, be sure to wash them off with water. You can't use a washcloth!

If we talk about savings, then the scales, of course, incline in favor of glass wool, which is on average three times cheaper than basalt. But at the same time, do not forget that you need to lay glass wool in two, or even three layers.

Manufacturers offer to buy insulation both in slabs and in rolls. Plates are much more convenient, because in the process of warming they do not need to be cut. Usually their width does not exceed 60 cm, which makes it possible to mount them between the racks of the so-called skeleton without any problems.

If you still have doubts, it will not be superfluous to watch a couple of video clips that will help you imagine what and how.

Stages of isolation

First you need to clean the wall. At the same time, do not listen only to the advice: cleaning-drying-washing. This, of course, hassle-free, but, unfortunately, far from everything. The more carefully the work surface is prepared, the better the result will be.

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You need to make sure that moisture does not get on the wall. It is this factor that will allow you not to worry about the state of the base under the insulation for quite a decent time.

After cleaning, impregnate the walls with antiseptics or flame retardants - special impregnating solutions. (With wood, such work must be done!)

The wall must be leveled if it has significant bumps, and also pay attention so that there are no cracks and cracks. Because all this will pass heat, preventing the insulation from fulfilling its task.

Frame construction

Many thermal insulation materials can be glued on site. However, do not forget that you still need to mount the outer sheets. Therefore, for this it is necessary to make a supporting frame, on the rails of which it will then be possible to fix the drywall itself.

Traditionally, the frame is assembled from wood, however, in my opinion, there are two significant disadvantages here:

1. The weight of the constructed frame can come out quite decent. Provided that the walls are made of cellular concrete, serious difficulties with fastening can arise.
2. The frame is made taking into account the technical indicators of the selected insulation. The design again turns out to be extremely heavy and only adds to the problem.

Therefore, experts advise buying profiles specifically for laying under drywall, this will save time and effort. The best option is galvanization. Profiles from this material can be cut even with scissors.

When attaching profiles, you need to look at the dimensions of the drywall sheets. The profiles themselves can be mounted both horizontally and vertically. Before laying the profiles, you need to stick a special tape on the frame. This will have a good effect on sealing the joints, reduce heat transfer and may help to avoid deformation of the rails.

You need to control the alignment vertically and horizontally, this will guarantee a flat surface.

Insulation laying

When you already have a frame, you can lay the material in the resulting "cells". Installation details depend on the type of insulation that you have chosen. If you are working with foam, then do not forget about fixing with dowels.

Important! All joints must be sealed! The joints of the slabs are glued with construction tape, and between the slabs and the ceiling, treat with construction sealant.

At this stage, I advise you to watch a video that will bring specifics specifically for your material.