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Construction of a bath from a bar. Do-it-yourself construction of a bath from a bar

If you try to choose the most interesting steam room project, which must be wooden and not too expensive, then it will most likely be difficult to find better than a bath from a 150x150 bar. The lumber material is rather capricious in operation, but if you put the bath box according to science, correctly build the foundation and basement crowns, then there is nothing wrong with a steam room made of timber.

Wooden baths from a bar

Among lovers of a real Russian steam room, the attitude towards timber material is rather cool. It is believed that a log bath does not last long, and even if it is built according to a professionally executed project, repairs will be required in 4-5 years.

In reality, a bar steam room has two important advantages:

You can build a wooden bath for very little money. The cost of a good quality lumber is lower than the price of a hewn or rounded log;
A building made of timber does not have super-complex corner and end cuts and joints, so building a box from profiled material is much easier than using a log or even a frame version.

Moreover, modern construction methods make it possible to connect crowns and ceilings quite simply and reliably. Metal spacers, tie-ins, corners simplify the process of docking, splicing and joining ceilings, walls and parts of window and door fittings as much as possible.

Important! Most of the work can be done with your own hands to build a wooden bath, a team of carpenters, at least, takes a third of the cost of materials for services.

The savings are quite large, and the appearance of the bath box does not really matter. It does not matter whether it is a log structure, or the bath box had to be built from timber, anyway, the building will need to be insulated, sheathed on the outside with clapboard or panels. This is the only way to build a warm steam room that will last for decades.

How to build a timber box without problems

The cool attitude towards timber bath projects is explained by the too high vulnerability of the building material to moisture and sunlight. The beam run is made from the core of the log, from the most porous and unstable part. The beam absorbs moisture like a sponge, with prolonged heating or exposure to sunlight, it quickly cracks. Accordingly, the basement and the first three crowns of timber, with poor protection and foundations, simply rot. Therefore, for a bath, a material with a cross section of at least 150x150 mm is chosen, and moreover, it is impregnated and dried in the shade in several passes.

To make the design of the future steam room as durable as possible, two conditions must be met:

To build a completely dry foundation for a bath from a beam of 150x150 mm, in addition to good waterproofing, the base must be equipped with a ventilation and ventilation system;
Effectively block the heat coming from the steam room. It is necessary to build a full-fledged thermal insulation, which would prevent overheating of the bath walls from the inside in the summer and condensation in the winter.

In any case, it will be necessary to insulate and seal the joints between the crowns, regardless of whether the bath box is made of timber or of a more expensive rounded log. Of course, a log house looks more representative than a simple box made of timber. It makes sense to build a steam room from a log at a small hotel or as an extension of a guest house. In all other cases, this type of bath is not economically viable; a natural-looking steam room will require considerable resources.

Advice! The same effect can be obtained if only a steam room is built from a log, and the main part of the building is assembled from a bar. After laying the siding imitating the walls of a log cabin, it will be almost impossible to distinguish a timber building from a log cabin from a hewn log.

Baths from a bar: photo

As an example, we can consider a one-story variant of a classic-style timber building with a terrace and a stone foundation.

The owners did not use clapboard or siding to decorate the walls. The bath box was treated with high-quality polyurethane, epoxy-polyurethane or ship varnish. The coating will have to be renewed every 10 years, and interventional joints should be minted every three years. The cost of maintaining a steam room is comparable to a log box, but in return, the owners of the bathhouse received a very beautiful and well-groomed room.

Large timber looks very good in dark colors, you can easily get an old oak or larch. If you try to use dark toners for a log cabin, then the steam room will look not stylish, but frankly old.

Sometimes the problem arises of how to decorate the box of a small bathhouse so that the building looks fresh, and there are no associations with a barn or outbuilding. You can solve the problem with the help of finishing "under the log", as in the photo.

A large crown of timber 150 mm wide always looks very expressive on the walls. A small bathhouse can also be built from cheaper material 70x100 mm or 70x90 mm, but the design of such structures will be frankly “gray”.

Two-story baths from a bar

If we consider lumber material with a cross section of 150 mm as the main one, then it is quite possible to build a full-fledged bathhouse with living rooms under one roof. In the variant below, the bath is located on the first floor.

This is the so-called home version of the bath, when the kitchen and the steam room are combined with a single heating and water supply system. A thick and durable beam allows you to build a full-fledged two-story structure without uncomfortable attic rooms. True, a covered terrace must be built on an attached columnar foundation.

For summer cottages, the reverse layout is most often used, when the steam room is transferred to the second floor, and they prefer to build a living room and kitchen on the first floor.

At first glance, this is not a completely rational solution, but in practice it turns out that this is an ideal way to build a house with a bathhouse, in which the lower crowns of timber will not rot due to the fact that the room is visited and heated once or twice a week.

How to build a bath from a bar with your own hands

First of all, to equip a full-fledged room with a steam room, a shower and a relaxation room, you will need a bath project made at a professionally high level. It is clearly impossible to build a steam room from a bar "by eye", and the point here is not the strength or stability of the box. It is just possible to build it by analogy. For example, take as a basis the project of a small country house made of timber 150x150 mm.

Timber walls, window and doorway structures, floor and ceiling insulation systems should be built taking into account shrinkage processes and thermal expansion of wood, especially in areas adjacent to the heater and chimney. In addition, before building insulation and a drainage system, you will have to wait 6-8 months until shrinkage processes are finally completed on a box made of timber. Only after that it is possible to insulate joints and seams, insert full-fledged windows and doors, build a stove and insulate the steam room.

Advice! The loads on the box during shrinkage processes are so great that craftsmen often prefer to build a room with door and window openings, partially covered with wall crowns.

This is clearly seen in the example of a two-story dacha bath. This method is used mainly for small buildings, 4x5 m or less.

The foundation for a bath from a bar

The design of the supporting part of the building made of timber is selected depending on the size of the building, its height, soil characteristics and the proximity of groundwater to the surface. The main task of selecting the characteristics and scheme of the foundation for a log bath was and remains the fight against groundwater, condensate and rain moisture.

What is the best foundation for a bath from a bar

If the bath box turns out to be quite small, 3x3 m or less, then the best solution would be a columnar type of foundation. To avoid problems with soil deformation, you only need to build a gravel-sand cushion, on top of which concrete or brick supports are placed.

The classic projects of a bath from a bar are placed on screw piles; today this is the only universal type of foundation on which even a two-story bath can be built without any problems.

If it is planned to build a larger dacha with an attached bathhouse, then the residential building is placed on a strip foundation, and the timber extension is supported on poles.

Sometimes, if you are lucky with the soil, for example, in a stony or sandy-podzolic soil type, then the foundation can be poured in the form of a shallow tape. Mandatory with double waterproofing of the sole and plinth, drainage of the base and air vents around the perimeter.

The width of the foundation for a bath from a bar 150x150

It remains to find out the dimensions of the concrete tape. Usually, under a bath from a beam of 150 mm, the width of the foundation is taken equal to the thickness of the wall plus 50 mm for the arrangement of a protective cornice around the perimeter of the basement. If the floor logs are built at the level of the basement line, then another 50 mm will need to be added to the wall sheathing with a support beam.

For other types of foundation, the width is taken such that it is possible to insulate and close the space under the bathhouse with cladding panels.

Warming of a bath from a bar

The frame of the building, built from high-quality pine timber, with a section of 150x150 mm, already has heat-insulating characteristics sufficient to bathe in such a steam room, as they say, “on black”. It is only necessary to sheathe the steam room with linden or aspen clapboard so that the red-hot heater does not burn the wall insulation.

For real baths, a three-layer insulation scheme is used. First of all, it is necessary to build a vertical crate on the walls from a bar and lay a vapor barrier sheet. A small air gap helps to remove condensation and adds an additional 7-8% to the thermal insulation.

The next step is the laying of mineral fiber mats, for them it will also be necessary to build a crate, but already horizontal.

If possible, it is best to use mats with a glued reflective aluminum film, otherwise it will be necessary to lay an additional layer of foamed, foil-wrapped polypropylene. The insulation is completed with a vapor barrier membrane, on top of which a wooden lath grate is sewn and the lining of the steam room is stuffed. In other rooms, thermal insulation can be built from timber without a reflective layer.

Conclusion

In the event that a bath from a bar 150x150 mm is planned in the summer version, the insulation can be done with two layers of foil polyethylene foam. This will be quite enough for a summer vacation. Many craftsmen believe that it is much more important not to overdo it with wall insulation, it is better to build a more powerful stove than to insulate the walls from timber so much that it will simply be impossible to get rid of condensate, and most of the water will drain to the bottom three crowns of the bath box.

Do-it-yourself bath from a 150x150 bar is ideal for an average climate! But you should not rush into the implementation of the project - it is very important to choose the right material in order to avoid problems in the future!

Spread a decent amount for the services of specialists or make a log house from a bar with your own hands - it's up to you! But even a superficial calculation of all costs in the case of independent work will surprise you - in this case, the savings can be equal to the cost of all materials! Why not take on the job yourself. And from what to build a bathhouse, if not from wood!

The advantages of a wooden structure are obvious - this is the minimum shrinkage upon completion of construction (if the tree is dry), and a much lower cost compared to the same log structures, as well as a much simpler construction technology. Savings also occur on the foundation, which is made tape or columnar, since the structure itself is not as heavy as when building from brick or stone. Of course, timber is far from being the most economical material in all regions, it is quite possible that after calculations you will find that a cinder block bath will cost you less.

Do-it-yourself bath from a bar 150x150 - how to choose the right bar?

The first rule when choosing a material for a bath is that it should be only coniferous wood! Just imagine how you are steaming in a bath, inside which the air is saturated with essential oils, which are extremely beneficial to health! Is it really worth denying yourself such pleasure, given that there is no fundamental difference between coniferous and other types of wood in terms of price.

All bars are divided into materials of forced drying and natural moisture. Artificially dried material is much more preferable because it does not shrink significantly. It is quite simple to determine the quality of the proposed beams by eye - firstly, they must be stacked, and secondly, they must be polished and packed. If the blanks are piled in a heap, bypass them.

You can save on wood with natural moisture. Just keep in mind that it should be used in construction immediately after purchase - no need to wait until the tree dries. However, the workpieces will not really be able to dry, because if the upper and side bars dry faster, then those in the middle will retain moisture until they are used. In addition, when drying, cracks and splits will begin to appear, the wood can be significantly deformed. Self-drying will take about a year, and there is a lot of fuss with this matter.

The size of the blanks should be chosen based on the climate. Bars 150x150 are by no means the only option, they are simply the most suitable for the middle climate zone, where even in cold winters the temperature does not fall below -30 °C. If the climate is even warmer, then a 100x100 bathhouse is also suitable, but for the northern regions 180x180 blanks are preferable. Partitions are made from the option that is acceptable in price and quality. It is quite easy to calculate the required amount of material - we did these tasks in the first grades of the school.

It is important to buy the full volume at once, or better - with some margin, especially since there will most likely be a discount for a large batch. The bars remaining after the construction will not lie idle - they will make excellent furniture! When the bars are ready for transportation, prepare a good “cushion” for their storage on your site - lay all kinds of boards and logs on the ground at intervals of at least one meter. When the bars are folded, slats and thin boards should be laid between them so that the tree is properly ventilated and does not mold.

Foundation - a reliable foundation for your bath

Since wood is a fairly light material, on solid soils, a bathhouse can also be placed on a columnar foundation. However, the most versatile and reliable is still the strip foundation, which is applicable to any soil, and even a person far from construction can do it. The only negative is a lot of labor, but nothing prevents you from calling friends and relatives for help, who will be the first to bathe in your bathhouse!

When digging a trench, keep in mind that it should be no less than 20 cm deeper than the freezing layer, with a total depth of 70 to 80 cm.

The width of the foundation should be no less than 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the bars, and it should rise above the future blind area by at least 15-20 cm. The foundation is made according to traditional technology - first a sandy layer is laid, which excludes seasonal soil movements under the base of the house. The poured sand is poured with water and, after precipitation, it is also compacted. On top of it, you can lay concrete blocks or pour it with concrete mortar.

For blocks, additional equipment will be needed, which, moreover, cannot always drive to the right place. Therefore, the easiest way is to put the formwork, lay the walls with roofing material so that it does not leak anywhere, and pour the mixture. When pouring, reinforcement bars are installed to which the first row of bars will be attached. Do not forget to lay a burlap or a layer of sawdust on top, so you can easily maintain the desired humidity.

Do-it-yourself construction of a bath from a bar - we build walls

After two weeks, or better, a whole month of drying of the foundation, you can proceed with the installation of the so-called strapping crown. They use the most durable and strong bars for it, it is better if they are thicker than the rest, for example, 200x200. It is recommended to exclude wood from touching the foundation in order to protect the beams from decay, for example, lay the same roofing material.

The lower timber should be pre-treated with an antiseptic, some craftsmen also process with machine oil. The construction of a bath is possible according to different scenarios - both hammering together beams with nails, and cutting grooves. With a fresh tree, it is better not to use nails - when they dry, they do not allow the beams to settle, resulting in cracks. Grooves are considered the most reliable method of engagement.

The final stage - we caulk the cracks!

When the bars are laid, get ready for a fairly long wait - on average, it will take up to six months to shrink the frame. Therefore, lay strong boards on top of it, on top of which spread a thick film or slate ... The main thing is that the tree does not get wet, at the same time it is important to provide good ventilation. When the building has stood for a sufficient time, you should start caulking - sealing all the cracks. For this, there are both proven heaters such as moss, tow or felt, as well as a modern sealant designed specifically for these purposes.

The use of sealant significantly speeds up and simplifies the work, however, it is up to you to decide which method to use. Usually they begin to caulk from the lower crown, gradually moving up - it is important not to overdo it so that the bars themselves do not move! With a ready-made frame, things will go faster - the construction of a bath from a bar with your own hands has just begun! Next in line is the insulation of the bath (warm floor and ceiling), the ventilation system, the installation of the heating system, but these are already separate topics for conversation.

Bath from a bar measuring 150x150: beautiful building options

It is difficult to argue with the fact that a bath in a suburban area for a Russian person is a necessary item. It is needed for taking water procedures, heating water, and besides, it is used for relaxation and spa treatments.

A wooden beam measuring 150 x 150 for this building will be an ideal combination of price, quality and construction time.

Peculiarities

Wood is an ideal option for building a bath, since it is in this design that you can create ideal conditions for temperature and humidity, the effect of a Russian steam room.

There are several more reasons that make wooden beams a favorite among other materials:

Wood has a low thermal conductivity. The correct choice of the section of a wooden beam allows you to heat the room in the shortest possible time, while it will cool down for a long time. For northern latitudes, do not use a beam with a section below 200 mm, for central Russia a section of 150 x 150 will suffice, and for the southern districts you can build from beams with dimensions of 100 x 100.
For the manufacture of timber, coniferous trees are more often used, which have an anti-allergenic and antibacterial effect.
For a small one-story bathhouse made of timber, a massive foundation is not needed, as, for example, for a brick or stone building.
The beam shrinks many times less than the log. Also, it is not subject to warping, deformation, cracking.
It is quite convenient to work with a bar, unlike a rounded log. Wooden buildings practically do not require interior decoration.
The timber is usually already treated with biological and fire-fighting impregnations, which means that the building from such raw materials does not rot, will not be eaten by insects, and the risk of fire is minimal.

The size of the bath depends on several conditions:

site area. The summer cottages of the majority of the inhabitants of our country are 6 acres, which means that it is logical to build a small bathhouse on such land;
construction budget;
personal preferences of future owners.

The creation of individual projects of wooden buildings, including baths, is carried out by special construction companies or design bureaus. Many of these firms also offer turnkey construction, which includes all stages from project development to the construction of a building and the organization of all engineering communications.

If you decide to order only plans and drawings from the company, and the construction will be carried out on your own, take a detailed look at the composition of the project documentation. In the finished version, there must be a sketch and a working draft.

The first one provides the following information:

foundation plan;
explanatory note with all technical indicators;
building facades;
floor plans;
sectional room;
floor and ceiling plans;
rafter system (general view and section);
three-dimensional layout or visualization in volume on a computer;
explications of all rooms.

How to build a bath from a bar

A bath in the country or on the site of a country house is no longer a dream, but a necessity. The owners of private housing construction develop a construction project in such a way that it includes all the necessary buildings - a garage, a barn, a bathhouse, a pavilion. Therefore, the construction of a bath from a bar has recently been rapidly developing and popularizing. But since the land plots are mostly small, the owners choose smaller bath projects, for example, a bath 100 x 100 (bar section) 3 x 3 m in size with a ceiling height of 2 m. Even in such a small building, both a steam room and a shower room will fit and a rest room. All operations must be regulated by SNiP 31-02-2001. In larger projects, a 150 x 150 timber bath is built with additional rooms that improve the comfort and functionality of using the building.

Small-sized log bath - we select building materials

You will need

It is also necessary to prepare in advance insulation, nails, electrical wiring and its components, self-tapping screws of various lengths and diameters, corners for assembling a truss structure, fittings, plastic or wooden windows and entrance, as well as internal doors. In addition, if you plan to connect the water supply to the bath, then you need to think about the organization of sewage. For our do-it-yourself project, a do-it-yourself plumbing and sewerage system was not developed.

How to lay timber and raise the walls of the bath:

Procurement of building materials, cost and estimate:

We build a log bath on our own - steps from the base to roofing:

Any construction of a bath from a bar can be divided into specific stages:

Foundation pouring.
The erection of a timber frame.
Installation of rafters and roofs.
Plank flooring.
Installation of windows and doors.
Laying of electrical wiring, installation of lamps and installation of other electrical equipment.
Decoration of internal walls, finishing works on external walls.

Stage 1. Foundation pouring

The best option to build a bath from a bar with your own hands is a concrete base.
Foundation pouring

The Tool You'll Need

Trench tool.
Wooden stakes or fittings, cord, tape measure, level.
Building material for the assembly of formwork.
Reinforcing bars and knitting wire for concrete reinforcement.
Factory concrete or concrete mixer, shovel, mortar container, cement, crushed stone, water, sand.
waterproofing materials.

The site should be leveled and the perimeter of the foundation should be marked with pegs and a cord. If we are building a bath from a small beam, then the foundation will be shallow, and a trench for it can be dug with a shovel. Trench depth - up to 50 cm.

Stage 2. Strapping and walls of a log bath

Pillar base for oven

The bars will be connected as follows: the ends - in half a tree, the corners - in the paw.

It is recommended to impregnate the first two rows of beams with antiseptics and fire retardants, and then lay them on a roofing material laid in two or three layers. The lower beam should have markings for windows and doors of a bathhouse that has not yet been built. The corner joints of the beam are additionally fastened, it is possible with dowels or corners. When building a 3 x 3 m bath, intermediate dowels are not needed.
Next, floor beams are laid for flooring. The distance between the beams is 1.3-1.5 m.
The gaps between the beams are insulated with tow, flax, jute or more modern heat-insulating materials, such as tape.
If, nevertheless, it became necessary to install intermediate dowels, then they are fixed after 1 m. Dowels can be wooden or metal. At the corners of windows and doors, pins are fastened at a distance of 0.2 m from the edge of the opening.
After a set of walls, the ceiling is mounted. Beams for it are mounted in two rows from the top edge of the wall, the approximate height of the ceiling that a do-it-yourself beam bath will have is 2 m.
The two remaining rows of wall beams are laid on the ceiling beams. These two rows should be fixed especially firmly, since the last beam will serve as a power plate in the rafter system.
Before arranging the roof, you need to make at least a temporary ceiling - it can be covered with any boards, since at the end of the roofing work they will be removed, and the permanent ceiling will be equipped.

The main problem when building a bath from a bar with your own hands is to bring the frame of the bath under the roof so that the rest of the work can be carried out not in the rain and wind, but in a protected room.

Stage 3. Roof

Arrangement schemes are for single or gable roofs. If we are building a bath from a beam with our own hands of small size (three by three meters), then a shed sloping roof option is better suited.
Shed roof construction on the bath

Bath is one of the integral parts of Russian life. Despite modern technologies and development, our compatriot is unlikely to refuse the opportunity to take a steam bath in a bathhouse, which he built with his own hands on the site. Even if you are not a happy owner of a city mansion, it can be built in the country. Many people dream of having their own sauna, but how do you make your dreams come true?

Bath from the foundation to the roof with your own hands. Building features

Classical Russian baths are, of course, wooden buildings. They have some similarities with the Finnish sauna. For their construction, a log cabin is cut and hewn from the inside. On the territory of Russia, pine and some other types of wood are used as building materials for construction. The main indicator when choosing is the minimum amount of resinous substances, since when heated and humid, such a material begins to “sweat”.

The very technology of erecting a log bath has its own characteristics and differences from the construction of a residential hut. First of all, these are increased requirements for the characteristics and quality of the material. The logs must be seasoned, straight and able to provide a quality joint.

Special attention is paid to indicators of tightness. Unjustified heat losses will be very noticeable, which reduces efficiency. For maximum temperature preservation, the walls are caulked with moss or tow.

A bathhouse built from timber or logs has an impressive and attractive appearance, but not everyone can afford the price of such a structure. A cheaper option is to use frame-panel technologies. It requires a small amount of materials, and there will be lower costs for the foundation itself, since mineral wool or similar analogues are used as insulation. In this case, there is no need to build a massive foundation due to the low weight of the entire structure.

The advantage of frame walls for a bath is the absence of building settlement. Nevertheless, there are also disadvantages of using frames - this is the appearance of moisture during snow blizzards and rains. It is formed during the condensation of vapors. To avoid such troubles, waterproofing is used.

Before you start building, you need to understand the main steps that must be performed:

The right approach begins with the preparation of budget documentation. It will allow you to display the prices for all types of work and the necessary materials. In addition, the estimate will allow adjustments and redistribution of the budget.

After that, you can start creating a bath project. Without skills and abilities in this area, you will not be able to think through everything to the smallest detail. Because of this, it is best to invite a professional architect who will draw up drawings with the main requirements and wishes of the client.

One of the main stages in the construction of a bath is the selection of materials for the foundation. This element of construction directly affects the durability and strength of the entire structure.

Next, you need to choose the most optimal price and quality materials for walls and roofs. Today, the construction market has a lot of offers that can satisfy the wishes of everyone.

Particular attention when building a bath requires internal communications, such as electricity and plumbing.

Depending on the size of the bath space and personal wishes, it is necessary to choose a stove and think over the place of its installation.

The final stage in the construction of the bath is the finishing work inside the room.

Bath from the foundation to the roof with your own hands

First you need to decide on the location on the site. This requires the owner's special attention. The choice itself depends on the size of the territory and the evenness of the surface. It is also worth considering the geometric parameters of the bath itself. It is worth considering the most optimal conditions for supplying communications in the future. To support bathing traditions, it is built in the vicinity of water bodies in order to feel all the charm and contrast of sensations by plunging into cool water.

Development of a project for the construction of a bath

In the classical style, the bath consists of three rooms: a dressing room, a steam room and a washing room. Quite often, the last rooms are combined into one. The dressing room is necessary for the location of the locker, benches, table and chairs. It is in it that the company gathers for friendly gatherings. Shelves of bath accessories, firewood or coal are also installed here.

The choice and development of a bath project depends on the wishes, free territory and material possibilities. It is quite difficult to draw up a high-quality and well-thought-out plan on your own. To do this, it is best to invite an architect who can quickly turn your dreams into a real project. It should be noted that the dimensions can be arbitrary. But for maximum convenience, it is necessary to carry out calculations. For comfort, about 5-6m2 should fall on each steamer. However, in reality, baths are built both larger and smaller.

Do-it-yourself foundation for a bath

Like other buildings, the bath requires the construction of a foundation, which must be laid to the depth of soil freezing. In this case, it is necessary to determine the material for the walls. This is necessary to calculate the maximum loads, since the massiveness of the base itself will differ from the weight of the wall.

If you plan to build stone walls, then you will need a strip foundation from rubble stone. Concrete, iron ore and brick can act as a material for the foundation. It must be understood that red and silicate bricks are destroyed in the ground due to moisture.

Having chosen the material, it is necessary to build a foundation half a meter above the soil level. To level the surface, a cement-sand mortar is used. After drying, it is necessary to lay the roofing material on the mastic. This will cut off moisture coming from the ground from the building.

What type of foundation to choose for a bath

For a bath, you can use several options for the foundation. Their choice depends on the depth of groundwater, the geometric dimensions of the structure and wall materials. The most effective for a bath are:

Lightweight tape made of concrete with a reinforcement belt. It is used in the construction of simple structures that have a small specific gravity. To create a strip foundation, rubble stone or concrete is used. They are sealed with mortar. For the device, it is necessary to prepare a pit with a gravel or sand cushion, 15 centimeters thick. As for the width of such a foundation, it depends on the size of the bath and the type of construction.

Columnar with supporting concrete brick or metal poles. This type is used for deep groundwater. It consists of supporting pillars located at the corners and along the perimeter. The distance between such posts should not exceed two meters. As a material for supports, concrete, brick, asbestos-cement or metal pipes are used. They are buried in the ground to a certain depth, after which they are poured with concrete.

Floating. This is an alternative option for which a monolithic slab is used. It can be used on any soil, regardless of the depth of soil moisture. To equip such a foundation, it is enough to dig a trench with a depth of 50-60 centimeters, at the bottom of which gravel or sand is poured. After that, a layer of waterproofing is laid down and poured with concrete.

The screw foundation is used when building a bath on loose or unstable soil. It is created using screw pipes, which have a pointed tip for easier penetration into the ground. It should be noted that the depth of piling may vary. The pillars are screwed into the soil by two or three people.

Pile-screw grillage. It is used as an additional strapping using metal channels or timber.

In practice, people desire to build a wooden sauna because of its unique properties. In this case, the most optimal type of foundation for building a bath with your own hands is columnar. Unlike other options, it has several advantages:

The device of the columnar foundation is within the power of almost everyone. This does not require special knowledge or the use of construction equipment.
A wide range of materials that can be used: concrete, brick and metal pipes.
Minimum effort and time spent on its construction. Unlike concrete pouring, it dries very quickly.
This option is most effective for a bath, since ventilation and water drainage systems are very easily organized.

Foundation trench preparation

For example, let's take the conditions in which the soil freezes up to 70 centimeters, and the soil water is located at a depth of one meter. In this case, it is necessary to use support pillars with a diameter of 200 millimeters, deepened one meter into the ground.

First you need to create a preliminary layout of all the supporting pillars. Along the perimeter of the future building, they must be placed in increments of one and a half meters. Additional supports are installed at the intersection of walls and corners. After marking all the pillars, it is necessary to drill holes. They should have a diameter of 50 millimeters larger than the pipes themselves. The bottom of the pits is filled with sand 20 centimeters thick, followed by ramming.

After that, pipes are prepared, which should protrude from the ground by at least 40 centimeters. As a result, they will have a length of 1.4 meters. Before installation in the ground, the piles are wrapped in roofing material. During the installation process, the pipes are covered with fine gravel or screenings, which will add additional strength to the structure. In the supports, rods are mounted to reinforce the structure. The last step is concreting.

Features of the foundation for the sauna stove

The design of the foundation largely depends on the type of heating furnace to be used. If you plan to use a device weighing more than 500 kilograms, you should think about creating a separate concrete pad for the furnace. You can use two options for this:

A columnar or strip foundation is created over the entire area of the furnace with additional reinforcement of the structure.
Another widely used option is a monolithic concrete pad. It is placed exclusively under the oven.

Creating a water outlet in the bath with your own hands

When creating a bath, you need to think over an effective system for draining water from the room. As you know, moisture is the enemy of buildings and reduces the life of materials. Because of this, water must be diverted at least 3-5 meters from the structure. In the floor of the bath, it is necessary to equip a drain, which, through a pipe system, will remove moisture to the sewer. Pipes must be laid below the frost line with a slope of 3 centimeters per meter. You can also use surface trenches with a depth of up to half a meter, the walls of which are lined with clay.

The option of arranging the drainage system to a large extent depends on the volume of water and, of course, material capabilities. However, it must be understood that there is a risk of icing when using a surface gutter. This situation can lead to uncontrolled flow at the ground surface.

If water leaves the bath with the help of a drain, it is necessary to carefully calculate the slopes in the floor. If the floors are filled with cement, then drainage is not a particular problem, since modern bottom drain systems will drain the required volume using pipes.

Another element is a sewer well, which has several options. If there is no drain well on your site, then a separate system must be built for the bath. In this case, a size of 1 cubic meter is sufficient.

Digging a well is no problem. So that it does not crumble during operation, it is necessary to lay out the walls from a brick or cinder block. Many owners use car tires. For better filtration of the removed moisture in the wells, it is necessary to equip additional horizontal channels.

The device of the floor in the bath

First of all, under the future floor, it is necessary to cut off the living layer along with the turf. If the bath is being built on a summer cottage, the land should not be taken out, since it can be used on the site in the future. The soil must be cut to a depth of 15 centimeters. After leveling the surface, you can begin to work.

The best material for the floor in the bath is a wooden board. The flooring should not be made above the level of the foundation, but a strong lowering is also unacceptable, since the flooring will absorb moisture from the ground. Under the wooden logs, you need to install additional posts from the brick. A grooved board is laid on all frames.

To drain water from the sink, perforation is made in the floor. It must be remembered that the bath has high humidity, which affects the wood. Because of this, it is necessary to leave gaps between the boards that will allow the material to move without deformation in the future.

Another option for flooring is a dirt floor. To do this, you need to use oily clay that will not let water through. The water drainage system can be made from gutters. In order not to get your feet dirty on clay, wooden gratings are installed. At the same time, special attention should be paid to the efficiency of drainage, since an unpleasant odor may appear during stagnant water.

As in other buildings, the floor can be made of concrete. This will facilitate the laying of communication systems and increase the service life.

Do-it-yourself bath wall construction

After completing the previous steps, you can begin to build walls. To do this, you can use a wide range of materials. In the standard view, a bathhouse is a wooden structure, but nowadays it can be created from brick, concrete or rubble stone.

There are standards for wall thickness with different materials. The thickness of concrete or brick for walls should be 51 centimeters (two bricks). Using a rubble stone, these figures increase to the level of 75 centimeters. As for wood, a thickness of 20 centimeters is enough.

Using wood as a building material for the walls of the bath, it is necessary to prepare. The main thing is that the logs are well dried and sanded. It is better not to use material damaged by insects or rot.

Of course, using concrete or brick, there are no such problems, but the structure itself will be colder. In addition, condensation forms from a constant temperature drop, which will need to be dealt with. With wood, moisture is not a problem as it is quickly absorbed into the fibers and expelled through the pores.

For maximum protection of the log cabin for a bath, it is necessary to treat it with special antiseptics and flame retardants. It is worth noting that wooden walls cannot be plastered, since moisture will not be removed to the outside. As a result, rotting of logs may occur. It is not superfluous to use steam and waterproofing structures.

We choose the material for the construction of the walls of the bath

At the beginning of the construction of a bath from the foundation to the roof with your own hands, a lot of questions arise, what and how to do. One of the main ones is the choice of material for the construction of walls. To date, experienced professionals in the industry advise using the following options:

Profiled timber is one of the most popular and sought-after materials for building a bath. They have a huge number of benefits. The main one is low thermal conductivity. In addition, the beam has an attractive appearance, gives clear and neat lines to the building. When choosing a profiled timber, it is necessary to wait some time for the material to shrink, after which a professional caulking of the log house is carried out.

Glued laminated timber is great for a bath, because it has a flat surface and does not require additional finishing work. Unlike profiled timber, this material does not require additional shrinkage time. Because of this, the bath can be used immediately after the completion of all work. When using glued laminated timber, the walls perfectly retain heat, and the material is not subject to the process of decay. It is worth noting that it is excellently resistant to chemicals and rodents. The only drawback is the high price, but it can adequately justify its quality in practice.

Quite often, planed timber is used for the walls of the bath. This is, indeed, a high-quality and affordable material that combines excellent indicators of heat and sound insulation of the room.

To build a classic Russian bath, most owners use logs. Of course, the chopped structure has its own subtleties during construction, which must be observed. One of the features is the observance of the straightness of the fibers. The bends of the wood fibers are an accurate sign of the poor quality of the material. In addition, the service life depends on this indicator. After the construction of walls from logs, it is necessary to caulk gaps and cracks.

In order to create not only a high-quality, but also an attractive building, rounded logs are often used in the construction of a bath. The material is strong and very durable. The disadvantage is the duration of shrinkage, which is one year. Only after waiting for the final shrinkage, you can continue finishing work and laying communication systems.

One of the economical options is to use a frame. This is an excellent solution, since the building itself will have a small weight, which in turn will save on the foundation. However, the main advantage is the speed of construction. With the observance of technology, such structures have excellent characteristics and can last a very long time.

For maximum safety and durability of the bath, brick is used as a wall material. This is a modern and affordable material that is widely used in all types of construction. To prevent the bath from being cold, it is worth making the walls two bricks thick.

To date, the cheapest option for building walls in baths is cinder block. This material also allows you to quickly and easily complete the construction.

Aerated concrete is modern and of high quality. Due to the excellent resistance to moisture, the structure will last a very long time. At the same time, the thermal conductivity of aerated concrete is very low.

Despite the abundance of various materials, for the construction of a bath with their own hands, burs and gas blocks were preferred. Therefore, it is necessary to consider in more detail the features and characteristics of these building materials.

Features and benefits of aerated concrete baths:

The blocks are relatively light in weight, which significantly reduces the pressure of the finished structure on the foundation.
Perfectly protects the room from winds and frosts.
The porous structure allows moisture to be removed.
Quick and easy installation work.
Construction does not require the use of specialized tools or equipment.

The advantages of timber in the construction of the walls of the bath:

The material does not require additional finishing. With personal initiative, you can carry out simple manipulations to improve the appearance of the building.
The beam is convenient for installation and does not require the use of complex technologies.
Using this material, there is no need for additional insulation.
The bar is durable and environmentally friendly material.

The technology of laying beams for the walls of the bath

A do-it-yourself bathhouse from the foundation to the roof will last a very long time if you adhere to the technologies for laying the beams. This material is tightly laid to the pins around the entire perimeter of the erected foundation. For the strength of the structure, holes are made in the timber with a diameter of 25 millimeters. At the ends, tie-ins are made for grooves or spikes. Insulators are laid at the junction of the elements with each other.

Professionals recommend using bars from larch for the lower rows. This wood practically does not give in to rotting processes and perfectly withstands temperature extremes. After that, you can use material from any type of wood. Before starting to fold the walls, it is necessary to prepare blanks that will correspond to the geometric parameters of the future bath. After that, they are collected in boxes.

In parallel with the construction of walls, it is necessary to insert window openings and door blocks. You also need to remember that the joints between the bars should not be very tight. The formed gaps are filled with insulation.

The order of laying the bars

On the first beam, which lies on the foundation, the second wreath is laid. After that, through holes are made in the upper one, the lower one is drilled to half.

After that, the top bar is removed. Dowels are driven into the holes made, the length of which should be one and a half times the height of the timber.

Before applying the next row, tow is applied along the entire length. Only after that it is possible to impose the following bars and hammer the dowel.

Without fail, it is necessary to cut down the dowel. Its height must be more than 2 centimeters. This will firmly fix the bars and avoid lifting in the future.

If you decide to use a different material for building walls in a bath, then the technology is the same as in conventional construction. In this case, do not forget about the door and window openings. In the steam room, the installation of glass blocks will be relevant, which effectively withstand high temperatures, moisture and perfectly transmit light.

Overlapping and roof of the bath

As a material for overlapping the bath, only dry wood is used. It can be boards, slabs or plates. The final choice depends on whether the attic will be used in the future or not. If you plan to use this space only as thermal insulation for a bath, then you can safely use a slab. This will save money. But if you plan to use the attic for your needs, you must use quality materials that can withstand the weight of a person or property stored there.

The front side of the ceiling needs sanding to create a more beautiful look. If plastering is planned in the future, then this procedure is not carried out.

As for the attic side of the ceiling, it should be covered with roofing felt or roofing material. As insulation, you can use furnace slag or backfill with earth, the layer of which should be 20 centimeters. Before filling the earth, it is necessary to sift it to remove the roots or seeds of plants. Also, as a heater for the attic of the bath, you can take adobe. This is a layer of straw with clay. This option is very common, because it will allow the clay to trap vapors and prevent fire.

The roof of the bath itself can be made from various materials, namely: slate, roofing material or tiles. To create a colorful look, use reeds or straw. Such options will be able to emphasize the individuality and peculiarity of the structure. During the construction of the roof, it is necessary to make an overhang of at least 50 centimeters. It is also worth taking care of effective ventilation of the attic. Before you need to heat the bath, the ventilation must be closed.

Doors in the bath

Bath doors can be made on dowels with your own hands, this will require boards with a thickness of 4-5 centimeters. With the financial possibility, you can buy ready-made designs. In any case, it must be taken into account that exposure to steam will increase their size. Because of this, it is necessary to observe the technological gap so that there are no problems with opening in the future.

The doors of the steam room should have a width and height of 70x170 centimeters. If desired, they can be higher. The disadvantage of a high doorway is the escape of heat accumulated at the top of the room when they are opened. To avoid drafts in a heated room, it is necessary to make the threshold quite high, from 15 centimeters. Despite the slight discomfort, it avoids the unpleasant cold that stretches down the legs.

Windows in the bath

Like any other buildings, the bath must have windows, the total area of \u200b\u200bwhich must be at least 10% of the entire floor area. By adhering to these standards, you will get sufficient daylight. In addition, it will help fight mold and mildew that will dry out when exposed to sunlight.

Given the rather cool climate of Russia, windows must be placed at a height of 80 centimeters above the floor. If you plan to place two window frames side by side, you should leave a wall half a meter wide. When installing adjacent frames, a gap of 15 centimeters is required.

As you know, through the glass is an active heat transfer from the building. To reduce these losses, it is worth using designs with two or three glasses. For maximum tightness, the gaps formed between the box and the window are sealed with tow or similar insulating material.

As for the size and geometry of the windows in the baths, they can be made at the request of the owner. There are no strict criteria in this aspect.

The device of the furnace in the bath

A do-it-yourself bath from the foundation to the roof cannot exist without a special stove, which will produce heat. Their configurations can be very diverse.

The most optimal and effective option for a bath is a stone oven. When creating it, it is necessary to carefully bandage each seam on the masonry, and the seams themselves are made as thin as possible. For the construction, burnt and heat-resistant bricks are used. The lower level of the sauna stove should be located 10 centimeters above the floor level.

At the request of the owner himself, you can place the firebox in the washing room itself or from the side of the dressing room. The latter option is more convenient, since it is drier in the dressing room. Despite all this, three sides of the oven must be brought to the washing room, which will significantly increase heat transfer. It is also worth leaving a gap of 25 centimeters from the walls of the building. This will heat up the room faster.

Design features of the sauna stove

Do not think that it is very difficult to build a furnace on your own. By their design, the furnaces may differ slightly from each other, but nevertheless they are made according to the same principle.

The entire heating structure is installed on a soil base. For maximum strength and safety, a layer of crushed stone or rubble is laid under the furnace, and the gaps are covered with sand. Next, create the foundation for the furnace itself, while it must have a flat surface.

For laying out the firebox, burnt bricks are used, and a sand-clay mortar with a small proportion of cement is taken as a binder. When making a mortar, it is worth adding more sand, since an excessive amount of clay will create cracks and reduce viscosity. In addition to the firebox, a blower is laid out for traction, which is located below. For efficiency, it must have an area two times smaller than the firebox itself.

Frames and doors for the oven must be bought at the store, since it is problematic to make such structures on your own.

The back of the stove should be covered with a sheet of quality metal with a thickness of 10 millimeters. To increase the efficiency of heat transfer, it is better to use cast iron throughout the entire length and width of the furnace. This will be the work surface, which will give off heat. A chimney hole with a diameter of 150 millimeters is cut out in the center of the sheet. An afterburner with a height of 70 centimeters is installed in it. For this manufacture, a pipe with a diameter of 30 centimeters is suitable. This chamber is necessary for extinguishing sparks and afterburning gases.

The entire structure of the afterburner and heater is covered with 5 mm steel. As for the heater, it is filled with stones by 1/3. It should have one door installed on the side of the washing room, and the second one goes into the steam room. A steel pipe is used to remove smoke from the heater. All gaps between the furnace structure and the pipe are sealed with mortar.

A tank for heating water is installed near the afterburner system. Its volume should be within one hundred liters. It can have a wide variety of geometric shapes. The main thing is that the bottom is in contact with the stove tiles.

A variety of types of wood can be used to fire a stove in a bath. It should be noted that conifers give a large amount of resin. When using oak, you will get a lot of heat and a minimum of soot. You can use coal or gas, but you shouldn’t, because they don’t have such a spirit at all.

A similar design of the sauna stove gives light steam and low wood consumption. When the tank is full, the water can heat up to 90°C. These are the most optimal indicators for a Russian bath.

Interior and interior decoration of the bath

A do-it-yourself bath from the foundation to the roof in the original Russian style should be finished with high-quality boards with a minimum content of resinous substances. The best option for arranging the interior space are materials from aspen, linden and birch. You can also use cedar. Pine can only be used after special processing.

If financially possible, you can not be limited to the flora of the temperate zone. To create a unique interior in the bath, you can use tropical tree species. Mahogany looks enchanting in the bath. Recently, the Abashi tree, which the indigenous people of Africa use to make kitchen utensils, has gained great popularity among our compatriots.

When making the inner lining of the bath, it is customary to place the boards vertically, with careful adjustment to each other. The walls inside are not painted to avoid the release of harmful substances at high temperatures. In addition, painting will reduce the vapor permeability of the material. In the steam room itself, walls up to a height of one meter can be covered with modern glazed tiles. This makes it easy to wash the most soiled areas.

The floor and ceiling of the premises must be upholstered with skirting boards around the entire perimeter. The floor plinth must be waterproof with a height of at least 10 centimeters. It is installed in such a way that the bottom row of skin covers it. This installation technology allows flowing water from the walls not to fall behind the baseboard.

As for the flooring, it should also be wooden, but without insulation. This is due to the fact that water constantly gets on it, and the insulation system will not effectively remove moisture. To facilitate the cleaning process in the baths, especially in the steam room, the floor is covered with ceramic tiles. At the same time, it is worth maintaining slopes up to the drain hole. If a sewer system is used, then a siphon is ponted in the floor. It will eliminate unpleasant odors from sewer pipes.

Humidity and temperature in the bath varies greatly, therefore, it is necessary to carefully select the material for the doors. The best option is glued wood, which practically does not change its size with changes in humidity. As for windows, for minimal heat loss it is worth using modern heat-efficient double-glazed windows.

If someone tells you that he is absolutely indifferent to the bath, do not believe it. In order to convince such a person, it is enough to take him to a bathhouse built with his own hands. Having steamed up, he will definitely say that he always liked to take a steam bath. There are a lot of people in our country who are waiting for the weekend to go to the bathhouse for relaxation with friends.

Now you know how to build a bath from the foundation to the roof with your own hands. Of course, there are a little more wisdom and tricks than what is described in this article. Nevertheless, you got an idea about the stages of building a bath with your own hands. Light steam and good health to you.

Do you want to build a bath, but do not know what material is best to use to implement your idea? Then be sure to pay attention to the beam. A bath made of this material will be environmentally friendly, reliable and durable. At the same time, you can handle the construction of such a structure with your own hands.

Building a bath with your own hands

Advantages of timber construction

There is absolutely nothing complicated in the self-construction of a bath from a bar. This material has many advantages over its closest analogue - a rounded log (log). Among the main advantages of the beam, the following points should be noted:

rounded log

all work on the construction and further finishing of a bath from a bar can be performed without the help of third-party specialists;
timber gives minimal shrinkage compared to all other wood-based materials;
building a bath from a bar will require a much more modest cash investment compared to most other popular materials;
a prefabricated beam may initially have fasteners and you will only have to assemble the individual elements into a structure of the desired size, like a designer.
rounded log

However, in order for a bath from a bar to fully show all its advantages and serve for the longest possible time, you must approach the choice of building material responsibly and competently.

What kind of timber can be used to build a bath?

The most important operational parameters of the finished steam room directly depend on the quality of the wood. First of all, pay attention that the logs are intact. No cracks or other defects are allowed. Even minor damage can lead to big trouble in the future, as a result of which the wood will rot and collapse.

Profiles of logs and beams

Make sure that there are no blue spots on the surface of the wood. Such defects indicate the presence of rot inside the material, the development of which in most cases is provoked by a variety of pathogens. It is impossible to use such material for the construction of a steam room and any other building.

Profiled timber

There should be no noticeable signs of damage by beetles and other pests on the timber.

High-quality timber has a perfectly flat and smooth surface. It is strongly recommended to refrain from buying material with distortions and any other damage - when laying the crowns, all deviations will clearly appear.

Glued laminated timber

Bath building guide

Pre-compile yourself, order or find a bath project in an open source. Calculate the required amount of building materials according to the project and proceed with the construction of a bath from a bar. Start by arranging the base.

The first stage is the foundation

The finished steam room made of wood will have a relatively small weight, which makes it possible to refuse the arrangement of monolithic buried foundation structures. A structure made of timber will feel great on an ordinary strip or column foundation.

To equip the base of the tape type, dig a trench around the perimeter and under the walls of the future building, fill the bottom of the pit with sand and gravel, lay the reinforcing mesh, install the formwork and pour concrete. The optimal foundation depth is 70-100 cm. When choosing a specific depth, be guided by the soil freezing rates for your region.

Strip foundation - construction procedure

The structure of a monolithic strip foundation

The foundation should rise above the ground by at least 50 cm - this will provide the necessary protection of the lower rims from excessive dampness.

Inside the perimeter of the strip base, pour strips of sand and gravel. In the future, you can fill them with concrete or build a wooden floor - choose a specific option at your discretion.

To equip a columnar foundation, it is necessary to erect supports made of bricks or concreted asbestos pipes along the perimeter, in the corners and under the future internal walls of the bath. Under each such support, a concrete “cushion” should be pre-arranged. Place the posts in 150 cm increments.

The device of the supporting-columnar foundation

Regardless of the type of base chosen, it is necessarily subject to additional reinforcement.

Features of a columnar foundation with a grillage

Varieties of schemes for constructing a columnar foundation

Let the concrete gain strength for 3-5 weeks and proceed with further work.

The second stage - waterproofing the foundation

Waterproofing strip foundation with a special compound

Apply molten bitumen to the surface of the base, and a layer of roofing material on it. Let the bitumen harden and repeat the operations. As a result, you will get a reliable two-layer moisture protection.

Before proceeding with further work, impregnate all wooden elements with an antiseptic. Such processing should be carried out after the preparation of cuts for fastening the beams, if such cuts were absent initially.

The third stage - the first crown

Proceed to laying the first crown of walls. To do this, first lay the slats up to 1.5 cm thick, pre-treated with an antiseptic, on a waterproofed base. Lay the slats in increments of about 30 cm.

Laying the first crown of timber

Lay the first crown of bars on the slats. Thanks to the slats, the contact of the beam with the foundation of the bath will be excluded. This will provide additional protection against wood decay and will significantly extend the life of the material.

Scheme of assembling the first crown of a log house for a house from a bar

Lay the first crown so far without fixing. Make sure that it is laid correctly and evenly with a square and a level.

If necessary, align the lower crown beams, and then attach them to the foundation. There are several mounting methods. The most optimal and frequently used method involves fixing the beam with anchor bolts.

However, quite often, developers refuse to attach the lower beam to the foundation. In practice, the design stands perfectly even without fixing the lower crown, held by its own weight. The advantage of this solution is that in the future, if necessary, the beam of the lower crown can be replaced with much less effort.

Blow out the space between the first crown and the base with mounting foam.

Do-it-yourself log bath

Fourth stage - the rest of the crowns

Bath construction

For laying out the walls of the bath, a wooden beam with a section of 15x15 cm is perfect.

Cover the first crown of the beam with heat-insulating material. For insulation, jute or moss is traditionally used. You can also use tow. In the case of moss or tow, the thermal insulation should be laid out with a 10 cm overlap at the edges. In the future, you will use the raised edges for the caulk.

How to build a bath from a bar

Lay the second crown of the beam and fix it with wooden dowels. Pre-drill mounting holes of the appropriate diameter. Usually the length of one dowel is enough to fasten 2-3 rows of timber.

Lay out the walls of the required height. Every 3-4 rows, check the construction with a square and a building level. Place a sealant between the crowns.

How to assemble the walls of the log house

The top two crowns do not need to be fixed. The wood will shrink. Ceiling beams can only be installed after the wood has dried. To install the beams, the upper crowns will need to be dismantled.

Fifth stage - door and window openings

How to make door and window openings

There are two options for arranging openings for mounting doors and installing windows.

In accordance with the first option, the said holes are created after the construction of the log bath is completed. To do this, you must first leave small gaps in the crowns at the installation sites of doors and windows. The dimensions of the gaps depend on the dimensions of the installed products.

Door and window openings

After the construction of the bath is completed, you will simply have to make openings for mounting doors and windows with a chainsaw.

In accordance with the second method, openings for doors and windows must be left during the construction of the bath. This option requires more time and effort. To accomplish the task, you will need to use special grooves and bars with end cuts.

The sixth stage - caulking

Leave the finished timber box for "wintering" for a duration of 6-7 months. During this time, the wood will give sufficient shrinkage. For the period of "wintering" cover the beam with boards and slate.

If you used tow or moss as an interventional sealant, you can skip this step in the instructions - you will most likely not need additional caulking for your timber bath.

Caulker

However, experts still recommend studying the state of the structure. If noticeable gaps are found, be sure to caulk. To do this, twist the tow or moss into a bundle and twist the material into the gap, followed by compaction.

You can also use jute sealant to fill the gaps. By most indicators, this material is superior to tow and moss, but it costs a little more.

Stage seven - the roof

bath roof

The roof should become a reliable protection for your timber bath. The arrangement of the roof structure can only be started after the wood shrinks, otherwise the roof will lead and it will be significantly deformed.

First step. Lay wooden beams on top of the top wall trim.

Second step. Attach the rafter legs to the fixed beams in 100 cm increments. To connect the rafters in the ridge part of the roof, cut them at the required angle.

Installation of a gable roof for a bath

bath roof

Third step. Nail a solid flooring of boards to the rafters (if soft roll material will be used for finishing) or build a crate (if you plan to trim the roof with tiles, slate or other sheet material).

hanging rafters

Methods for connecting rafters

Fourth step. Mount the final roofing in accordance with the instructions for the selected material.

How is the roof of the bath

Fifth step. Cover the roof ridge with galvanized iron. This will protect it from adverse environmental influences.

Sixth step. Sew up the gables of the roof with suitable improvised materials - clapboard, wooden board or siding. At this point, focus on your individual preferences.

After the completion of the roofing work, proceed to the insulation and other insulation work, interior decoration and arrangement of the steam room in accordance with your project.

Rest room in the bath

Building a bath with your own hands

Successful work!

Video - Building a bath with your own hands

Summer residents or owners of country houses often wonder about building their own bath on the site. There are several solutions: ordering a steam room from organizations involved in construction, or building a bath with your own hands. Those who can afford the funds will certainly give preference to buying a finished building.

The process of installing a roof for a bath from a bar

But those who are trying to save money will seriously consider the option of self-construction.

In order not to get into trouble during construction, it will be useful to know all the features of this business, from determining the place for construction to choosing the roofing material.

The choice of the main building material

Due to the fact that the construction market is oversaturated with various materials for construction, an inexperienced summer resident who decides to do construction with his own hands will simply run up his eyes. As a rule, in such cases, people are looking for a budget option, because dachas are places of seasonal stay, and it makes no sense to invest a lot of money in a bathhouse.

Despite the fact that the material should be cheap, its quality should not suffer from this.

The finished project of a bath from a profiled beam

The most successful idea is to choose brick or profiled logs for building a steam room for a summer residence. Consider the features of buildings made of these materials, based on which it will be easier to make a choice in one direction or another.
Features of brick baths:

the bath lends itself to impressive shrinkage;
the material is not afraid of fire;
laying walls from brick blocks is a very time-consuming task;
ensuring the reliability of the future structure;
rather slow heating of the steam room;
interior finishing required.

Features of log baths for summer cottages:

almost does not shrink;
environmental friendliness of the material;
special microclimate in the steam room;
wall cladding is not required;
color of the building;
the construction process is not as long as in the case of brick baths;
the total cost is much lower than a brick bath.

The original project of a frame bath on a screw foundation

Summing up, we can say that brick baths are better than log baths only because they are not afraid of fire and are more durable. Otherwise, log baths are superior to brick ones. Based on this conclusion, we will focus on log baths, and we will understand the nuances of their construction.

Construction of steam rooms from profiled timber

Construction should begin with determining the location for the future bath. Let's look at some recommendations in this regard.

Choosing a place for a bath

Taking into account fire safety requirements, according to which fire hazardous objects must be at a safe distance from other buildings, it is best to allocate a place in a remote corner of the estate. You should also take care of the necessary communications in advance.

If there is a reservoir on the site, it would be ideal to build a bathhouse near it. It is great if there is an opportunity to plunge into cool water after a hot steam room.

The project of a bath from a bar with an artificial pond

However, there is some subtlety here too - the distance from the building to the reservoir should not be less than twenty meters. This is necessary to prevent flooding in the spring.

Since budget options for buildings are being considered, it is best to make the bath compact, but not to the detriment of its functionality. Firstly, it will take less time to build with your own hands, and secondly, it is more economical. An ideal bath should be equipped with a dressing room, a steam room and a washing room. To save space, you can combine some rooms in one.

Bath layout

The entrance to the bath is equipped on the south side. This is prudent, since in winter snowdrifts from this position accumulate in the smallest amount and melt at an accelerated pace. In order for the room to be illuminated to the maximum by the sun, it is desirable to position the windows from the west.

We plan the location of the front door and windows

When a place for the construction of a bath is chosen near a reservoir with clean water, it is advisable to locate the building no further than 20 m from the water body. Thus, you can get a huge supply of water and avoid saving fluid during water procedures.

Bath with a pool

If it is possible to attach a pool, you get a full-fledged bath complex. You can carry out the construction of such a structure with your own hands. A special bowl is purchased at a hardware store, and a separate place is equipped under it. It remains only to supply and drain water. Showing imagination, many owners carry out designer mosaic decoration and equip bright lights that create a fabulous effect at night.

View of the pool from the panoramic window of the steam room

The pool can be placed in a room adjacent to the bath, if you equip a polycarbonate visor or roof in advance, options with glass walls look beautiful. Also, the pool is convenient if it is located in a room adjacent to the steam room. The pool is designed to immediately plunge into cool water after a hot steam bath.

Options for arranging a bath with a pool

Creating a "cascading pool" is the most fashionable idea at the moment. This is a kind of cascading waterfall, which is found only in natural areas. A system of closed water circulation is created, and the edges of the structure are lined with special stones, which are usually used for alpine slides. To create a real beach atmosphere, you can create a 3D drawing on the walls, which will depict your favorite beach or a beautiful tropical area. At the design stage, it is necessary to provide for a developed power grid, large-scale water sources with the possibility of uninterrupted water supply and drainage.

Bath foundation

An example of a strip base for a bath

Scheme of installation of strip foundation

To create a quality foundation, you need to choose technically clean components. The mixture is made up of cement, water, sand or gravel. The listed components, except for water, are mixed in a ratio of 1:3:5. The liquid is added gradually with constant stirring until the mixture becomes liquid.

Proportions of concrete for the foundation

The procedure is shown in the table below.

Base marking	The construction site is being marked. The location of the outer and inner walls is marked with a cord stretched between strictly vertically stretched stakes.
A trench breaks out	It must be deepened based on the height of the foundation with the addition of layers of sand cushion and waterproofing.
sand cushion	The sand cushion is located 15-20 cm in height. Coarse-grained sand is used to fill this space. An alternative to this material is gravel. It is desirable to create backfill in layers, at each stage wetting the material with water and tamping.
Formwork is being installed	To do this, the sand cushion is completely leveled. When it dries, you can install a kind of fence in the form of long boards, plywood, or use a special fixed formwork.
Reinforcement	Reinforcing chairs are placed on the inner surface or stones are laid out that are stable enough to withstand the reinforcing bars. You can not create a reinforcing cage directly on the sand, otherwise, when pouring with cement, its lower faces will remain uncovered. Reinforcing bars are purchased. The largest section should be for elements that are driven in like pegs. They serve as the basis for the entire structure. They should be installed on reinforcing chairs on both sides, parallel to the formwork line. Horizontal bars complete the frame. Longitudinal pegs should be fastened with transverse pegs at all intersections by welding parts or fastening with thin wire.
Preparing concrete mix	Material consumption table
Filling the strip foundation	Immediately after mixing the mixture, it is necessary to pour the foundation. It is advisable to do this in one step, however, with large amounts of work, the first row is formed first, and after a while the second.
Using a vibrator	During the filling of the mixture, it is necessary to work in parallel with a deep vibrator. It is needed for the speedy compaction of concrete. If you do not use it, the mixture will settle when it dries, and air bubbles will remain inside, which will make the foundation of the bath less durable.

Video - Foundation for a log house

Water supply in the bath

The water supply system is organized taking into account the basic requirements:

the possibility of filling water in one structure;
protection of water from freezing at sub-zero temperatures.

Plumbing in the bath

The work of the steam room in several versions should be provided:

"Russian" steam room, which maintains a constant supply of wet steam;
a sauna where soaring is carried out exclusively with the help of dry steam.

How to find the optimal source of water?

The best option for a bath is an artesian well.

There are sand wells. Their drilling is estimated at a small amount, but you have to install special filters, which is also a costly undertaking.

Before drilling a well, it is necessary to make sure that there are no radioactive substances in the soil. Often a high percentage of radon gas is found in the earth, which is a completely radioactive element that is harmful to health. The study can be ordered from special companies or check information about the territory in the regional fund.

The best and least expensive option is to dig a conventional well.

Once a decision has been made on the method of water supply, the aquifer can be found by observation, by experimentation, or by test drilling. To equip the well, special rings with a thorn-groove system are needed, which can be quickly fastened to each other. This technology ensures that the rings do not move in the horizontal direction. It is advisable to additionally use metal rings to tighten the elements so that the fastening is more reliable.

A bottom filter should be formed at the bottom of the well. For this, stones, crushed stone are used, geotextiles can also be used.

Water from the well is supplied to the bath through the outlet pipe. It should be completely sealed. Bituminous mastic is not suitable for this. It is desirable to perform multi-layer waterproofing, where elements made of silicone, concrete or liquid glass are used.

How to organize water supply from a well

Work performance technology.

The hole is closed with silicone, which is plastered with tile adhesive. It must be 100% resistant to water and frost.
The glue dries completely. Then fibrorubber is superimposed on it. This material is usually used to protect the shower from leakage.
After this layer has dried, the adhesive must be applied again, but in a greater thickness.
Apply plaster with tile adhesive.
A day later, the surface is covered with blue clay, on which foam should be laid.
Loams make the well more decorative.
All of the above actions should be done in the exact order both from the outside and from the inside of the structure.

Installation of a pumping station

If you need a silent system, you need to install a submersible pump that goes directly into the well.

Installation of a pumping station in a well

A receiver should be connected to the pumping station so that it can be easily used without additional switching on every 3-5 minutes. Also, this device will help normalize the pressure in the system.

Pipe selection

Metal-plastic pipes are considered the most comfortable, but they are often not optimal for a bath. In winter, their gaskets dry out, which can cause a temporary cessation of water supply. Propylene pipes do not corrode, have excellent wear resistance and are equipped with a one-piece construction without additional gaskets.

Bath water supply

Water distribution is carried out from the pumping station to the filter structure, tank and collector. A tee is installed inside the well, which serves to carry out a drain tap and a check valve, which is necessary for installing a strainer. Additionally, a mesh-type filter is placed in front of the pump. It is advisable to ensure that this element of the system is designed for at least 30 tons of liquid and has a carbon cartridge.

The construction of the walls of the bath

Most often, baths are made from timber. Logs are a completely natural material, they do not lose their properties over the years, therefore they make the room “breathable”, provide natural thermal insulation with constant air exchange. The room is ventilated automatically, however, a special air outlet is provided without fail, as this is required by building codes.

Log walls are automatic moisture regulators. If the bath is used for its intended purpose almost daily, the walls almost never dry out, so the building always has a slight smell of fresh wood.

It is necessary to choose the most straight logs that do not have defective particles, damage, and the presence of knots is also undesirable, since such material requires additional processing. Before use, the logs are cleaned, then special protective compounds are applied to them, with the help of which the material becomes fire-resistant and not subject to damage by insects.

Round log for construction

The strongest species are pine and spruce, which grow in the northern regions. In order for soaring in the bath to be accompanied by a pleasant aroma, you need to build walls of linden. If you need to purchase a tree with a persistent resinous smell, you need to choose a material with a high content of knots or cavities filled with this substance. With constant use of the bath, the resin will flow out, which will affect the aesthetic appearance of the walls. It is advisable to compare the smell of different materials, choose solid elements without cavities with resin, but with a pleasant aroma.

Construction of a log house "in the paw"

You should choose logs that have an equal thickness. The ends of the paws are marked according to a pre-drawn template. The length of the protruding ends depends on the width of the logs. The bars should be cut off before laying, however, in most cases, for the first crown of the building, the material is left completely solid. The highest quality samples are selected for it, since it is this place that is most exposed to negative factors that can lead the tree to decay.

The felling of logs is carried out when laying out into two equal shares, which differ in the shape of the cut.

Root spike.
Insert spike.

Creating a felling template

When creating a template, the following beam fastening scheme is provided:

Formation of a small hole.
Beam installation.
Fastening of both beams.

Video - Log cabin "in the paw"

To give the crowns rigidity, they are fastened with spikes in increments of 1 m. This procedure is necessarily applied to the two highest crowns, which serve as the basis for cutting down the ceiling beams. Nests for spikes are made at a depth of 0.2-0.3 m, while the thickness of these elements is 0.25 cm with a width of 0.6-0.7 cm. When these parameters are met, a height of up to 150 mm is provided.

In the process of knitting crowns, you may encounter three main difficulties

Video - Fastening logs with dowels

Video - Nagels. Terms of Use and Errors

A seal should be laid between the bars to insulate the structure. Moss, felt or tow is used as a heater. It is installed after the wall structure has been created. To do this, the seal is installed using padding. In the people, this action is called caulking. This procedure should be carried out twice. For the first time after the completion of the construction of the walls, and then a year and a half later, that is, after the shrinkage of the structure.

Video - How to caulk a log house

Timber walls: construction features

Timber walls

Bar walls are rated as the easiest to build. Structural elements must have a section of 150x150, while initially they are made of logs. The shape is given to them by filing. Slabs that are excluded during the preparation of beams should not be thrown away. They are used to equip the floor in the attic.

The bars can be fixed "in the oblo", "in the paw", however, the joints should be strengthened with spikes, placing them in a vertical position.

Stages of cutting walls from timber

Cutting out the shape of an angle for attaching to an adjacent structure and making a tenon connection.
Cutting a corner on dowels with the participation of plug-in dowels.
Fastening of bars when forming a structure on dowels.
When using tongue-and-groove beams, the connection is made using plug-in rails.
Dowel connection.
Fastening the structure on dowels.

Video - Construction of a bath from a bar

Video - Building walls from timber (part 1)

Video - Building from a bar (part 2)

Stages of work in the construction of a bath

The log cabin of the bath should be assembled subject to the correct installation technology of all parts. Only then is its high quality and durability ensured.

Waterproofing is applied to the foundation.

Video - Foundation waterproofing

To protect the lower rims from destruction, a wooden board with a thickness of at least 5 cm and a width of at least 20 cm is placed under them. The tree undergoes an antiseptic procedure. The board is covered with bituminous mastic or special resin on three sides. The exception is the top surface and end parts.

In the photo - a board laid on a foundation under a log house

In the absence of the materials listed above, roofing material should be used. Three sides of the board are covered with it, after which it lies on the waterproofing layer. When there is a loose fit of the board to the waterproofing, it is necessary to level the surface. To do this, all gaps are measured, small pieces of roofing material are cut out under the obtained parameters and laid out on the surface. When laying additional layers, they should be tightly joined so that there are no significant gaps, and protrusions are also unacceptable.

Log house waterproofing example

If the roofing material is not used in the structure, it can be replaced by any material for waterproofing, in particular, tow, felt, hemp, while these elements should preferably be pre-cleaned and coated with an antiseptic composition. If all these measures are carried out, the formation of drafts is excluded in the zone of the crowns. Also, the wood will be completely protected from decay.

Thermal insulation should be placed on the lining, which serves as the basis for the first crown. In order for the wood to fit snugly against the lining, it must be planed or trimmed. These measures are carried out only if the quality of the material allows you to clean the edges. When there is a risk of wood decay, the contours should be left intact, only trimming too noticeable bumps.

The scheme of fastening the lower trim and waterproofing under the first crown

The second row of logs of the overlay crown is located perpendicular to the first. These logs are higher than the lower ones by 50% of their diameter. The resulting space must be tightly laid with a brick or decorative stone.

Thermal insulation should be laid between the logs, trying to fill all possible gaps. At the end of the work, you need to make sure that there are no places with a draft. So that atmospheric precipitation does not affect the lower part of the bath structure, it is necessary to select a groove between the second and third rows. A drain board is installed in the hole. You can replace it with roofing steel. This material covers the base along its entire length, and should hang down at least 5 cm.

Floor in the bath

Even at a high air temperature in the bath, the space near the floor rarely heats up to more than 30 ° C. The quality of thermal insulation is not of particular importance, however, it should be remembered that a strong temperature contrast should not be allowed.

Recommended flooring materials: fiber mats, cork boards, boards. To organize the constant drying of the floor, it is necessary to raise it on the logs. When you need to fix the flooring on a wide floor, it should be done in several steps, marking out the individual sections in advance.

First, wooden logs are mounted. To do this, pillars of massive brick are pre-installed directly on the base of crushed stone or soil. The logs are laid with an approximate step of 1 m. To create a log, it is advisable to use tongue-and-groove boards.

Floor boards are made from hardwood, must have a width of at least 3 cm.

The floor can be left wooden in all departments, except for the steam room. This room is constantly maintained under the influence of high temperatures and in conditions of high levels of humidity. The best material for flooring is ceramic tiles. To ensure comfortable movement without slipping, it is possible to equip wooden grates, which, after soaring, it is desirable to take out for drying.

A drain is equipped in the place of the greatest slope of the floor so that there is no stagnation of moisture in the room.

Creating partitions in the bath

When the building is fenced with walls around the perimeter, it is necessary to allocate separate rooms, which should also be securely separated from each other.

For the installation of partitions made of wood, special wooden bars are provided in advance. When the partition is planned between the already laid floor lags, it is mounted anywhere, fixed to the crossbars.

Sometimes partitions are mounted in the opposite direction to the floor beams. In this case, a run is installed on the intended space, which is a reliable basis for the partition.

Partitions in the bath do not bear any load

There are several types of partitions.

Single solid boards.
Double solid boards.
Double with a gap, that is, the possibility of free air circulation.
Double with full filling, that is, without drafts.
Frame-sheathing.

If the simplest partition design is chosen, they are made from boards 4-5 cm thick and 10-20 cm high. They should be trimmed first. This action can only be performed on one side. The use of boards with a wider diameter is not recommended, because they tend to warp. To guarantee complete blockage of cracks and the possibility of long-term operation, it is necessary to choose a grooved material.

Partition device

The bars are connected with steep spikes of 10-12 cm. From the height of the boards, the step of their location is calculated, it is optimal to take breaks of less than 1 m. 8 cm

On the walls next to the partition, it is necessary to draw vertical lines and mark them with a cord. To check the evenness of the fasteners, it is advisable to use a plumb line. In addition to the walls, they should subsequently be drawn along the line to the ceiling and 4x4 cm boards should be nailed to them. Then grooves are formed, corresponding in width to the design of the bars.

In front of the place where it is planned to insert boards for the partition, a gap should be left, that is, do not fasten the bars at a distance of 20-30 cm. Only guide wooden structures can be fastened to the beam. Natural shrinkage of the structure should be foreseen in advance. For its maximum compensation, the partitions are measured a few centimeters shorter than the main walls of the bath.

Wooden interior partitions

The bars are first placed in the grooves, then move forward until they close. The partition is provided without holes, so fastening should be carried out as tightly as possible, using spikes or quarters.

Skirting boards are nailed down along the perimeter of the space separated by the partition. Small holes are usually formed separating the structural elements. They should not be overlooked. They must be caulked with tow or plaster.

Timber barriers

The double partition is made with the connectors left or when they are filled with a material that plays the role of thermal insulation. It is advisable to use mineral wool in any configuration, including in the form of plates.

The thickness of the boards is approximately 2-2.5 cm. With these parameters, the gap between the rows will be about 0.4 cm. The double partition is constructed by alternately assembling the first and second sides. When the creation of gaps is not planned, in parallel with the assembly of the walls, insulation should be laid between each row of beams. The upper edges of the boards are held by inserting them into the grooves. The lower edges are nailed to the boards with long nails.

To save on the construction of partitions, they should be constructed using a frame-sheathing method. To assemble the frame, you can choose from: spikes, cuts or nails. Boards are the main material. The support for the frame is a beam. Alternative fastening is carried out on crossbars when inserting structural elements into the grooves.

Frame partition

The upper edge of the structure should not reach the ceiling by 1-2 cm. The remaining gap should be filled with tow, mixed with a gypsum mortar. You can also use boards that completely cover the joint without leaving gaps. To insert the door frame into the partition, additional boards should be placed nearby, closing the frame canvas.

Video - Partitions in the bath

Creating a bath roof

The ceiling in the bath should be equipped with maximum heat and vapor barrier, since the most humid air always rises and accumulates under the roof.

Bath ceiling insulation scheme

Boards are mounted as floor beams.

floor boards

A vapor barrier is laid between the boards.

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bath with foil

A heater is laid out above the vapor barrier.

Insulation laying

The structure is closed with boards laid in a direction perpendicular to the beams.

The gap between the insulation and waterproofing will improve the characteristics of the "pie" of insulation

The ceiling consists of the following elements:

hemming boards;
bars that perform the function of beams;
primary lining;
hydro and vapor barrier;
thermal insulation.

When arranging the attic space, the ceiling design is slightly changed. A layer of clay coating about 1-2 cm thick is created on top of the boards. Wood chips can be used as insulation. Its thickness should be impressive, be more than 15 cm, and it should also be pre-mixed with a weak cement mortar. If subsequently too much condensation forms on the ceiling, then the thickness of the insulation is insufficient. It should be increased by applying backfill a second time.

Video - Insulation of the bath ceiling

A wooden floor is constructed with such a sequence of actions.

Primary laying of beams.
The imposition of cranial bars.
Installation of boards. They can be created from low-grade wood, but must first be hammered together.
Vapor barrier lining. Usually glassine is used.
Heater installation. Recently, mineral wool has become popular.
Ceiling board installation.
They are stitched up.
Parts are fastened with anchors.
The final waterproofing is being carried out, which is excellent for roofing.

The beams should be placed no more than 10 cm deep into the structure. The rear wall of the nest forms a gap with an end, the optimal width of which is no more than 3 cm. The inside of the nest is filled with cement mortar.

How many cubes of concrete are needed for the foundation of a 9 by 9 house. How to properly lay timber when building a house on a screw foundation?
How to lay a brick base with your own hands on an uneven foundation?

One of the options for relaxation in the country or your own home is a visit to the bath. But what if it doesn't exist? Of course, build from scratch with your own hands. You will need a place to build, building materials and tools, as well as projects from which you need to choose the right one for you. The construction of a bath from a bar is carried out in stages. In the article you will find the main points, steps and operation instructions, as well as a training video. Step by step instructions are for beginners who don't know where to start.

Project development

Ready-made projects can be found on the Internet or contact a specialist for help. But the cost of such services is quite high. Therefore, the first option is more attractive and budget. But do not forget that ready-made drawings are not always suitable for everyone. The following features must be taken into account:

climatic zone;
temperature fluctuations;
soil type;
precipitation;
and many other factors.

Bath from a bar

So, the foundation of shallow concrete pillars is suitable for soils with good bearing characteristics. In wetlands, screw piles or a monolithic concrete slab that has good support will be needed.

As for the roof, the average wind and snow load should be taken into account. Precipitation can ruin a roof in just one winter. Therefore, before proceeding with the construction, you need to weigh all the pros and cons, the features of the future building and, of course, additional functions.

Attention! Ignoring the weather factor can lead to roof deformation in winter.

The quality of the walls also depends on the temperature regime. Their important parameter is thermal insulation. After all, thermal insulation in the southern regions and middle latitudes is significantly different. An insufficient indicator can lead to a rapid cooling of the bath.

Advice. When choosing a project, you need to consult with a specialist in this field.

Choice of wood

Attention! The presence of small cracks in the beam is not critical. The reason for their presence is the wrong technology for drying wood.

The popular types of wood that are used to build baths include:

pine;
cedar.

Spruce and pine are durable and easy to work with. In addition, pine is not subject to deformation during drying. Cedar has a beautiful texture and original design, and also has a lot of healing properties that are transmitted to humans. Do not use larch as a material for making a bath. It has a solid structure.

In the southern regions of the country, you can choose a timber with a cross section of 15 * 15 cm, in places where the climate is more severe, you need to use wood with parameters of 20 * 20 cm.

Selection and laying of the foundation

There are several options for laying the foundation for a bath. Let's consider them in more detail:

Pillar foundation. To do this, columns are set along the entire length of the future bath, as well as in the corners. The distance between them does not exceed 2 m. Such a foundation is usually made of brick, and the dug-in pillars are poured with concrete mortar.
Strip foundation. In this case, concrete is poured around the perimeter of the bath. This is done in accordance with the amount of freezing of the soil. The depth of the foundation varies from 0.55 to 0.7 m.

Advice. Do not forget to insulate the foundation on all its sides.

Regardless of which foundation is chosen, it is necessary to perform a double waterproofing deck. Roofing material can act as a waterproofing. Rebar laying is a prerequisite for laying the foundation.

Strip foundation

Laying the crowns and connecting the timber in the corners

The assembly of the finished structure will not be difficult. The main thing is accuracy in the work! Do not rush to fix the crowns completely. First check the timber for evenness of the surface. This will require the use of a building level.

Laying begins with the first row of beams, because they bear the brunt of the roof and walls. Therefore, it is better to choose them thicker than other materials. So, the cross section of the beam of the first row should be 20 * 20 cm, and the next - 15 * 15 cm. So, let's get started.

The laying of the first salary of the future bath begins with the location of thin rails throughout the basement. Be sure to treat the material with an antiseptic solution.
After laying the crowns, they should be fixed with metal pins. But first they need to make holes for fasteners. The distance between fasteners is on average 1.5 m.
The hole passes through the entire beam and grabs part of the bottom.
The next step is laying the insulation.

Construction of the bathhouse

Thus, it is necessary to lay all the crowns. The exception is the last two upper crowns. They don't need to be fixed. At the end of the work, they will have to be removed in order to install the beams on the ceiling.
Another option for fastening the timber is to use hatless nails. Simple nails will not work, because they rust and this negatively affects the condition of the wood. Therefore, drill holes in the timber and drive in the dowels. Installation is done in a checkerboard pattern.

Advice. Spring assembly "Strength" will help to avoid deformation and cracks in the timber. This system does not allow the appearance of cracks, because there is a strong compression of the beam to each other. If, however, gaps between the bars have formed, then they can be sealed with jute, tow, other insulation or construction foam.

Window and door openings

Installation of windows and doors is carried out during the construction of walls or after the construction process is completed. Between the bars you need to leave the distance in those places where it is planned to install windows and doors.

When the walls are ready, using a chainsaw, you can cut out the necessary parameters of the openings. Installing door and window frames during construction can be very risky. This is explained by the fact that the tree usually shrinks. To prepare a bath from a bar for shrinkage, you need to put several boards on top of the crowns, the thickness of which is at least 6 cm. And then lay the roofing material or slate.

The windows and doors of the bath are installed when the walls are ready.

This completed the construction of the bath. In this state, it should stand for at least 6 months. Only after that you can start installing the stove, shelves, interior decoration and arrangement.

A log bath is a place where you can relax, arrange spa treatments for yourself or relax in the company of family or friends. A trip to the bath for some is a real ritual. So why not give yourself pleasure and build it on your summer cottage? You just need to decide on the project, prepare the material, carefully study all the details of construction and get down to business! The entire construction process is divided into several stages: choosing a place for construction and material, laying the foundation, installing crowns and installing walls.

The project of a bath from a bar: video

We build a bath from a bar: photo

A summer cottage, a country house or just a private house in the city does not at all eliminate the need for hygiene. Most often, the problem is solved by building an ordinary bathroom, which is a combination of a bathroom and a toilet. Nevertheless, for aesthetic reasons, the construction of baths is more correct, since they are also a good place to relax, and are also a tribute to traditions.

Peculiarities

A log bath is more popular than other options for objective reasons:

low thermal conductivity (reducing the cost of heating and accelerating the heating of the room);
ease of construction that does not require powerful foundations and careful engineering preparation;
high construction speed;
simplicity of finishing;
availability with self-construction.

As for the section 150x150 mm, it is considered quite universal and suitable for use in the middle zone of the Russian Federation, because there such material does not create any problems. It is important to consider that in the northern regions it is necessary to use logs with a cross section of at least 20 cm, or to supplement narrow options with mineral wool and other heaters.

Projects

For the construction of baths it is necessary to use spruce and pine wood; cedar is also acceptable, but only in completely exceptional situations. The advantage of such materials is their saturation with essential oils, because when heated, the oil evaporates and makes the air in the room very pleasant and healthy.

A 3x4 meter bath project is best done individually, because this significantly increases the aesthetics of the design and allows you to create it as individual as possible. The finished project of a bath 6x3 or 6x4 meters with a layout has another advantage - it was initially worked out in all details and turns out to be significantly cheaper than a custom-made counterpart.

A bath from a bar 150x150 mm with sides of 6x6 meters has an area of 36 squares, which makes it possible to make a comfortable and convenient terrace. On this site you can always gather with loved ones and spend time over barbecue. If the dimensions of the bath are 4x4, or 4x6 meters, the removal of the main furnace outside helps to save space. Then in the drawing it is necessary to provide for its optimal connection with the internal space due to air ducts or water pipes.

When the space is even smaller - 4x4, 3x3, 3x2 meters - it is advisable to compensate for this disadvantage by arranging the attic. But even in larger baths, it can be useful, because it helps to more comfortably accommodate after a stay in the steam room, to relax for a while.

Calculation of the amount of materials

It is very important to make sure that the timber does not have the slightest cracks, as they will inevitably provoke shrinkage. Another serious defect is blue spots - this is a sign of the action of insects gnawing a tree.

It is not difficult to calculate the consumption of materials for an average bath from a bar measuring 6x4 m. Shrinkage is often a significant problem as it varies with block size, climate and how well the crowns are insulated. In most cases, it is worth focusing on an indicator of 17 cubic meters. m of timber. First, the volume of materials that will be required for a single row (crown) is determined. Then multiply the resulting parameter by the total number of rows. See how many pieces are required in terms of 1 cu. m, you can in the table attached to a similar product.

As for costs, even with independent work, the foundation will cost at least 10 thousand rubles. When hiring performers, you should focus on the lowest rate of 25 thousand rubles. The purchase of materials for a 3x6 m bath will require at least 50 thousand rubles for walls and another 10-15 thousand for the roof. We are talking about the option with a roof made of metal, which is not additionally insulated. The smallest payment for the purchase of the necessary communication products (without their installation) is 30 thousand rubles; the total lower threshold for the cost of construction cannot be less than 100 thousand rubles

How to do it yourself?

Building a bath with your own hands at the stage of building the foundation, walls and roof has almost no difference from the construction of wooden houses.

You will need to do:

a leisure room (furniture is placed there that can withstand significant humidity);
shower room (with a floor equipped with drain fixtures);
a steam room, supplemented by a stove - this is the main room in all baths.

The foundation will have to withstand a relatively small load, so builders can safely choose both columnar and tape structures. Both options are quite simple to perform, even if you work on your own, without the involvement of professionals. The installation site is marked, a trench is dug on it with a depth of 0.7 m (regardless of soil freezing), the width is selected according to the cross section of the timber with a small reserve. The bottom is sprinkled with 10 cm of sand, which is rammed by hand using a rammer. This tool is made on the basis of thick logs and handles attached transversely.

The edges of the trench are equipped with formwork, which is easiest to fold from a shield or from a board, and are connected by spacers. Please note that the formwork should rise above the ground by at least 0.3 m. To simplify the work, fragments of a beam with lower grooves, put on the perimeter of the formwork shield, will help. Continuing to work step by step, prepare concrete mixtures and pour them into trenches, then wait until the concrete sets and becomes dry. In hot weather, the foundation should be covered from the sun and sprinkled with water to avoid cracking.

Further, roofing material or other thermal insulation is placed on top of the base. Next, you need to build walls from profiled timber. The strapping is the most durable material, which does not have even minor cracks. The selected blocks are impregnated with an antiseptic composition, after which the original crown is attached to the foundation with metal studs with dowels. Alternatively, the bars are put on the reinforcement installed when pouring the foundation.

Places for genital lags are prepared by cutting into crowns. Fastening is carried out using the "thorn in the groove" method, adjacent crowns are connected with wooden dowels, which are hammered into the parts to be joined. When counting the number of rows of material, you need to focus on the average height of the baths from a bar of 250 cm. It is recommended to use not linen, but jute tape for compaction. Conventional gable roofs are the best way to deal with accumulating snow.

Work begins with the creation of nests for rafter legs, and they are made on the final crowns. The counter-lattice is attached to the rafters, boards are sewn onto the slats. After them, they are engaged in a vapor barrier (the gaps between the rafters are saturated with a film) and insulation (mineral wool should cover the vapor barrier layer). Then comes the turn of laying a film that restrains the spread of water. Finally, it comes to the crate, which supports the main coating (OSB sheets are used under the shingles).