Gas boiler on the balcony. Balcony or loggia heating options: which is better

Residents of apartments with a loggia or balcony are lucky because they have extra space that can be turned into a full-fledged room. Many glaze and insulate balconies to make them comfortable in winter. If you want to arrange a workshop or an office there, then insulation is not enough. More to be done quality heating balconies or loggias.

What the law says

According to the law, the transfer, installation or replacement of heating and other engineering networks in an apartment is a reorganization. These actions must be authorized by the BTI. If you are going to connect your balcony heating to the plumbing or central heating, you will need this permission.

Usually such a transfer of the central heating system is prohibited, and here's why:

1. If there are batteries or a water heated floor on the balcony, they can freeze in winter and burst. Then it will flood you and the neighbors from below. You can solve this problem good insulation balcony. But you will have to prove to the inspectors that you insulated it well enough.
2. Connecting radiators to the heating system of the whole house will weaken the water pressure, and the radiators will become colder for everyone. Naturally, other tenants will be against it.

You can make such a transfer arbitrarily. But problems will arise when it is noticed. For example, when selling an apartment, you will provide new tenants with a technical passport. All must be included in it. network engineering apartments. And if the batteries are installed illegally, then they are not included in the plan. In this case, you will need to pay a fine and agree on heating or return everything to its previous form. Therefore, consider whether it makes sense to perform inconsistent work.

Please also note that the regional authorities may issue a ban on the removal of the radiator to the loggia.

For example, in Moscow there is such a document: regardless of the insulation of the balcony, it is forbidden to remove batteries. It is illegal for Muscovites to take out a heating battery to a balcony.

Heating options

So, to avoid fines, consider other balcony heating options:

• electric floor heating;
• fan heater;
• oil or infrared heater;
• gas convector.

These methods do not need to be coordinated, since they do not affect the engineering networks of the house and are easier to perform than transferring batteries. You can use them, and you definitely will not have to pay a fine.

Consider separately solar panels we won’t do it for a balcony, since it doesn’t make sense to use them for a small space. Application solar collectors and batteries are advisable if you plan to heat water or heat a house, for example, in a country house.

Warm floor

One of the most effective ways balcony insulation is the installation of an electric underfloor heating with your own hands. There are several options that are not prohibited by law, and it is up to you to decide which one makes sense to choose.

Heating mats are a material in the form of a mesh to which cables are attached in the form of a snake. Installation can be done by hand. The mat can be cut into pieces if required by the room. DIY installation procedure:

1. Check the resistance of the system and clean the floor from dust and building materials.
2. It is necessary to make a groove in the floor for the temperature sensor and in the wall for the cable and thermostat.
3. Prime the concrete floor.
4. Lay the mat on the floor, cut if necessary. Step back 5 cm from the walls.
5. Lay the tube with the temperature sensor and connect to the thermostat.
6. Cover the groove with tile mortar.
7. Lay on mats adhesive solution for tiles.
8. Install tiles. Turn on the underfloor heating after the tiled masonry has completely dried.

The infrared floor is special items, which heat the room due to radiation. This type is safer than the previous one. It also consumes less electricity. It is easier and faster to install than mats.

Cable system is a common type of heating. It must be installed on a layer of insulation, otherwise the heat will go down. From above, such a warm floor is covered with a cement-sand screed. The disadvantages of such a coating include drying: it is necessary to wait three weeks until the screed dries, and the floor can be used.

Electric heaters

To ways electric heating balconies can also include a fan heater and heaters. These methods are the most obvious, they do not require additional installation, and their transfer does not require the use of special tools. In addition, they are not prohibited by law. The disadvantage of heaters is that they dry the air a lot. If there are plants on your balcony, they are unlikely to like it.

A fan heater is a compact device that sucks in cold room air, heats it up and gives it back.

It is best to install it on an insulated balcony. It can quickly warm the entire balcony, but with long work starts to warm up. Therefore, it must be turned off periodically. Another downside is the noise.

The oil heater is electrical appliance which uses mineral oil as a coolant. It can be set to one of the operating modes. It will heat up and turn off when it reaches a certain temperature. After it cools down, the heater turns on again. To use this device on a balcony, it is necessary to insulate it, since there will be no effect with drafts. Warm air will simply escape from the room.

An infrared heater is a lamp that heats a room and objects in it with radiation. She adds her illumination to the sunlight. The disadvantage of such a heater is the fragility of the lamp, as well as its temperature - 200 degrees. This type of heater consumes less electricity, it has the highest performance compared to convector and oil heaters.

Gas heating

It makes no sense to install a gas boiler to heat the loggia - it is costly and impractical. Therefore, in the case of gas heating We are talking about the installation of a gas convector. If you do not want to transfer central heating to the balcony, it makes sense to use a gas convector:

1. Suitable for owners of apartments with gas pipelines, since gas is cheaper than electricity. Compact devices consume little fuel and efficiently heat the room. If your balcony faces sunny side, then it will be heated by the sun and gas.
2. The convector can be connected to the gas network of the whole house (although such redevelopment will also have to be agreed) or to gas cylinder. The gas convector is easy to install.
3. He needs only one hole to bring the exhaust gases to the street. The law permits such manipulations.
4. The devices are equipped with gas leakage protection systems.

Batteries on the balcony

If you want to try to coordinate the output of the heating radiator to the balcony, this can be done after installation. First you need to choose a battery. It can be cast iron, steel, aluminum, bimetallic.

You can do it yourself, or you can turn to a professional plumber. The last way more reliable if you do not have special skills.

If you want to do everything yourself, in the next step you need to choose the type of attachment of the new radiator to the existing one. After that buy everything necessary materials: taps, plugs, tubes, sealant. Attach the tubes to the battery, through the holes in the wall, bring them out to the balcony. Hang a new radiator. Do not forget to isolate all connections with fum tape.

Scheme of a water heated floor

Before carrying out a water heated floor, it is necessary to make a calculation. There are two ways to lay pipes:

1. Snail. It is a spiral - pipes stretch from central element to the walls.
2. snake. Pipes are laid in a snake from one wall to another. It makes sense to make a snail on the balcony, as it provides uniform heating.

If the floor is concrete, then it is necessary to conduct a thermal circuit in the thickness of the screed. Be sure to insulate the floor and the entire balcony. Insulating materials, reinforcing mesh, water pipes are laid on the floor. They must be attached to the grid. After that, the system is connected to the water supply and the coolant is poured, turned on, left for a day for testing. At the final stage, everyone is poured with a special solution and the flooring is laid.

There are several ways to conduct heating on the balcony. You must decide for yourself whether you will install a warm floor or take out a radiator. But do not forget about the laws and the need for battery transfer approvals. Think about whether it makes sense to go through all these procedures, or is it better to use household appliances that do not require special installation.

With a little effort and investing certain material resources, you can get additional living space using a balcony or loggia for this purpose.

It is quite simple to insulate the walls and lay a warm water floor on the balcony with your own hands. You need to have certain building skills and a minimum set of tools.

Is it possible to lay a warm water floor on the loggia, is it allowed or not

To answer this question, it must be taken into account that a loggia and a balcony are not the same thing.

The loggia, in fact, is part of the house resting on the foundation, so changing the weight load during construction or repair is practically irrelevant.

The balcony is located on a slab fixed with brickwork or floor slabs, the weight after the repair is critical.

The installation of a water heated floor on the loggia is limited by the need to obtain official permission to re-equip the central heating system. For the balcony, only polystyrene mats can be used. It is important to pre-calculate the maximum load on the plate.

To connect the water heating of the underfloor heating on the balcony or loggia, you will need to solve a few more tasks:

• Provide protection against water leakage in case of pipe rupture.
• Get official permission to redevelop the apartment.

The legality of the installation of water heating of the floor surface, to put it mildly, is doubtful. According to the housing code, it is strictly forbidden to use the central heating system for heating balconies or loggias. Therefore, after a complaint is received by the housing and communal services from the neighbors, the legality of the redevelopment will be considered in court and a fine will be imposed with the obligatory dismantling of the floor.

How to insulate the balcony floor for water heating

If a possible consequences they could not completely convince them to abandon water-heated floors, then care should be taken that the heating system can work for a long time and without unpleasant failures.

The first problem that needs to be solved is whether it is necessary to lay thermal insulation?

The base needs to be insulated. Thermal insulation helps to avoid defrosting of the water circuit, the appearance of a large amount of condensate. Individual heating on the balcony should heat only your own living space, and not your neighbors.

What material is suitable as thermal insulation?

The liquid floor heating device on the balcony is different from traditional method laying the water circuit. For the premises, the installation method with concreting is not suitable. Therefore, the use of foam is excluded.

The best solution would be to lay high-quality foil-coated roll insulation on one side.

Thermal insulation of the balcony with water floor heating can be carried out using a polystyrene mat system. The material simultaneously performs heat-insulating functions and serves as the basis for laying pipes.

How to make a water floor on a balcony

To lay the heating circuit, you will need to follow the following steps for creating the floor:

• Foundation - preparation of the floor for laying pipes includes preliminary leveling of the surface, laying waterproofing and thermal insulation. At the same time, work is underway to seal the cracks and insulate the walls and ceiling in the room.
• Calculation of a water heated floor - depends on the selected laying step and the diameter of the circuit. On average, it will take from 3 to 7 meters of pipe for every 1 sq.m.
• Pipe laying - the circuit is traditionally mounted in two ways:. For a balcony or loggia, the first installation option is more suitable. The pipe is fixed on the mats with the help of special latches.
• Power supply from the heating system is the most economical, but not always the best option for connecting a pipe. You can power the system from a central heating battery, or make a special insert into the riser.
• Installing a collector on a balcony - with the help of a mixing unit, it is possible to control the heating of the surface and prevent overheating of the floors.
• Laying floor covering- do it right water heating to the balcony is only half the task. It is also necessary to correctly select the type of flooring. Practice has shown that for a balcony or loggia optimal solution will be ceramic tiled.

The underfloor heating installation technology includes mandatory pressure testing of the water circuit before it is launched.

Connection and temperature control

In order for the heating of the loggia with water heated floors to work flawlessly and provide the most comfortable mode of stay in the room for a person, you will need to correctly connect and regulate the operation of the circuit.

The temperature of the coolant in the risers fluctuates on average between 60-70°C degrees. AT warm floors it is necessary to reduce the degree of heating by more than two times. How to do it?

You can install a temperature sensor or a control unit that independently regulates the operation of the water circuit. If it is planned to heat rooms and a balcony at the same time, a floor laying project must be prepared.

You can mount the floor of the loggia and connect to the central heating system only after making sure that there is no coolant in the risers. Water is drained only twice a year. The rest of the time, the coolant under pressure is in the pipes.

Which is better, water or electric floor in the loggia

To understand which is better, you should once again remember why it is impossible to arrange a water floor on balconies. Laying is prohibited by the housing code, it is an illegal conversion of an apartment.

Power supply from the central pipeline: radiators, heated towel rails, etc. is also a gross violation.

The scheme of the underfloor heating system has several limitations associated with the use concrete method installation. The polystyrene system for small spaces is financially disadvantageous.

Floor insulation in a loggia or balcony can be performed with roll insulation, due to the limited height of the ceilings and restrictions associated with the maximum weight load, which is somewhat inefficient and leads to certain heat losses.

Given all these nuances, balconies and loggias, as well as apartments, it is best to heat or.

For most residents, the issue of expanding the living space of the apartment is the most relevant. Many people want to expand the living space of the apartment by combining a loggia with a room.

But in order for the loggia or balcony to be habitable, they must be properly insulated and the heating system organized.

Insulation of a balcony or loggia

Before organizing heating on the balcony or loggia, it is necessary to carry out a number of activities that are aimed at warming the room. First of all, it starts with glazing.

Attention ! For glazing a balcony or loggia, it is best to use plastic double-glazed windows. They will keep the heat in the room better. Single-chamber double-glazed windows It is not recommended to use, as ice may form on the inside of the glass in frosty weather.

When the glazing of the balcony or loggia is completed, it is necessary to proceed with the insulation of the walls and ceiling. In most cases, mineral wool insulation is used to insulate the walls of the balcony. Also, foam can be used to insulate the walls of the balcony.

Wall insulation is carried out as follows:

• First you need to install a wooden crate;
• Then you need to carry out the installation of insulating material;
• When the installation of the insulation is completed, a layer is glued on top of it. vapor barrier film.

After the walls of the balcony or loggia are insulated, the ceiling can be insulated. Mineral wool can be used as a ceiling insulation.

Ceiling insulation is carried out as follows:

• Before starting the main work, the ceiling must be treated with an antiseptic;
• After treatment with an antiseptic, a layer of insulation is laid. It is best to use penofol;

Attention ! Penofol insulation must be glued with a simple wood glue. Also, the insulation can be glued with mounting foam or fixed with self-tapping screws.

• After laying the insulation, the crate is mounted. A metal profile can serve as a crate.

After the insulation of the walls is completed, you can proceed to the insulation of the floor. To insulate the floor of a loggia or balcony, you can use the following materials:

• Mineral wool;
• Expanded clay;
• Styrofoam;
• Penoplex;
• Penofol.

Floor insulation is carried out as follows:

• On the concrete base it is necessary to lay waterproofing material;
• After waterproofing material laid on the base, laying wooden logs;
• Then, between the lags, we lay slabs of mineral wool or other heat-insulating material;
• We lay a layer of vapor barrier film on a layer of heat-insulating material;
• Then, on a layer of vapor barrier film, lay the subfloor.

After all measures for warming the balcony are completed, it is necessary to sheathe the balcony. For sheathing a balcony, you can use the following materials:

After the process of warming the room is completed, you can proceed to the main thing - the supply of the heating system.

Attention ! Insulation of the balcony plays a paramount role; without proper insulation, heating the loggia or balcony will not be effective.

Balcony heating methods

There are several ways to heat a balcony or loggia:

• output of central heating;
• warm floor;
• infrared heaters;
• electric heater;
• oil batteries.

Central heating

It must be said right away that heating a loggia from central heating is a rather troublesome task. Work cannot be carried out without the consent of the BTI.

Attention ! To date, balcony heating by installing an additional battery and connecting to central system heating is prohibited. The ban is due to the fact that the neighbors in this case will not receive enough heat.

In order to obtain permission to remove the central heating battery to a loggia or balcony, it is necessary that the balcony joins the adjacent room.

If permission to remove the battery to the loggia was nevertheless obtained, installation can begin:

• According to the recommendations of experts, better heating premises before installation work it is necessary to glue the wall behind the battery with foil;
• Then it is necessary to shut off the heating riser, for which you should contact management company and call a specialist;
• After the riser has been blocked, it is necessary to drill holes for the pipes. It is recommended to use a plastic-aluminum hose, on which a tee with a valve is subsequently mounted;
• After the holes in the wall are drilled, you can proceed with the installation of the radiators themselves. In order to securely fix the batteries, it is necessary to install two brackets, which will be located at the top of the radiator, and one more must be installed at the bottom of it;
• Then you need to connect the batteries to the central heating system. When connecting a radiator, it is important to exclude the formation of an air lock.

Warm floor

For heating a balcony or loggia, you can also use more economical option installation of the "warm floor" system. The "warm floor" system works according to following principle: The heated air rises to maintain the temperature at the desired level.

Underfloor heating is of the following types:

• Electric;
• Water.

Installation of a water heated floor is as follows:

• First you need to lay a concrete screed;
• Then you need to level the base of the concrete screed;
• Next, you need to lay the insulating material;
• After the layer of insulating material has been laid, it is necessary to lay plastic pipes (underfloor heating bases). Pipes should be laid in a snake, at a relatively small distance from the bends;
• Then plastic pipes connected to the hot water supply system;
• After that, a concrete screed is laid on the base.

The main disadvantage of a water-heated floor is the significant complexity of installation. Just the same electric underfloor heating is much easier to install.

Installation of an electric underfloor heating is as follows:

• First you need to lay a cement-sand screed. Thickness cement-sand screed should be from 4 to 5 centimeters;
• Next, lay a layer of insulating material;

Attention ! In order to prevent the formation of condensate, the layer of insulating material must be protected with a vapor barrier film.

• Then, on the insulating material, it is necessary to lay the underfloor heating cable, which, as in the case of a water-heated floor, is laid with a snake;
• After that, the floor covering is laid. The best flooring option is ceramic or tile. They have higher thermal conductivity.

To heat a balcony or loggia with another good option will use an infrared heater.

An infrared heater is a heating device that transmits heat through long-wave infrared radiation.

Advantages of infrared heating devices:

• Profitability;
• Price availability;
• Rapid space heating.

Electric heaters are the most popular means of space heating.

Advantages of electric heaters:

• Heats up the room quickly
• Allows you to maintain the desired temperature;
• Affordable price.

Cons of electric heaters:

• Large electricity bills;
• Fire hazard.

Oil coolers

Oil radiators can also be used to heat a balcony or loggia. To connect an oil cooler on the balcony, it is necessary to equip a socket.

Advantages of an oil heater:

• Mobility. Radiators are equipped with special wheels, which allows, if necessary, to remove them to another place;
• Profitability. Oil radiators operate cyclically, that is, depending on the cooling of its sections;
• Maintaining the required temperature. Oil coolers are equipped with temperature regulators, which allows you to maintain the temperature at a comfortable level.
• Security. Oil heaters are safe for health. The surface of the heater modern models heats up to 60 degrees, which eliminates the formation of burns.

Cons of an oil heater:

• Slow heating of the room;
• Big weight. The weight of an oil heater can be from 19 to 30 kilograms.

Hello everybody! We have: a kopeck piece in a low-rise new building with individual heating(double-circuit boiler). 2 balconies (or loggias). It just so happened that one of them (from the kitchen) began to be insulated (this apartment was prepared for another buyer, but he did not buy it). Put double glazing(they say it’s warm, but I don’t know how to look), they combined it with a room, there is a teplex on the ceiling, they put a battery on one side, where the wall is street (the other wall borders on a cold loggia). They put a warm water floor on the floor directly on the floor slab and poured this case concrete screed. The situation is further aggravated by the fact that the balcony has panoramic windows. To be honest, I'm horrified. We don't want to flood the street. On the other hand, the underfloor heating has already been installed, the glazing has been changed to a warmer one, and this room goes with a coefficient of 1. We have already paid for all these alterations in rubles. Therefore, we will not refuse warming and unification, at least not having tried to live like this.

The question is: how to properly insulate our loggia / balcony? If there have already been similar questions with detailed answers, please throw links. The deadlines are burning, the house is being prepared for delivery. I would especially like to hear the opinions of respected heating engineers and people who simply understand this matter)

best answer

6 responses

View from the room to the balcony. Don't pay attention to the second window, it will be in another room.

The small wall on which the window stands is insulated with a layer of teplex and another row of bricks. Not sure what to do next..

Helpful answer? Not really

The wall bordering the uninsulated loggia is not insulated at all

Helpful answer? Not really

Take out water heating appliances outside the thermal contour of the building (including the loggia) is strictly prohibited. Whether there are any exceptions for houses with individual heating - I have no information, but I think that they will not agree on this. To find out for sure - contact the BTI. You can make sure that the double-glazed window is two-chamber (three glasses), if at night, shine a flashlight or a lighter (candle) flame into the window: three glasses will give three reflections. If you do not refuse to join the loggia, then you will heat the street in any way. Because the heat loss from the apartment through the attached loggia is always higher than the design ones. Excessive heating costs can only be reduced if both side walls, floor and ceiling are insulated as best as possible, and the glazing area is reduced ( lower part glazing to be replaced with a wall with good thermal insulation). Good thermal insulation is at least 10 cm of teplex on the walls, floor and ceiling. Water heated floor pipes should be on top of the insulation. On top of the insulation (teplex) on the ceiling and on the walls (if the walls are insulated from the inside), it is necessary to create a vapor barrier layer. Also, be sure to specify whether this is your loggia, or a balcony. The margin of safety of the balcony is lower, so making its structure heavier is a dangerous business, both for you and for those around you. And in general, I do not advise you to implement any solutions here without prior approval from the design organization. Why the loggia comes with a coefficient of 1 - require justification with reference to SNiP. Most likely, this is someone's arbitrariness. Interested in this one who wants to sell an apartment at a higher price. The loggia is non-residential and unheated room. The cost of the area of ​​​​the loggia cannot be equated to the cost of the area of ​​​​the dwelling. Consult a lawyer on this matter.

Helpful answer? Yes 2 / Not

Thank you very much for the answer! It is strange, of course, if the removal of heating is not agreed in BTI ... After all, the insulation of the loggia is done at the stage of building the house at the request of the buyer (the house has not yet been commissioned) ... In our house (18 apartments), almost every second one has insulated and attached a loggia. The prohibition of moving water heaters out of the heating circuit is due to the fact that the pressure in the heaters drops, which may cause the neighbors to receive less heat. And in houses with individual heating, the boilers in each apartment are different, and the neighbors, in principle, should not care how much I will load it and to what temperature I heat the batteries. Well, okay, because. the house has not been handed over, coordination is not yet our headache) Concerning the replacement of windows. As long as we don't touch it. We'll winter once, and then we'll see. The Windows Are New, Salamander, Two-Chamber (3 Glass). The builders said that they were some kind of special “warm” - this is the warmth I wanted to check. Initially, there were also two-chamber ones, but they were replaced by these, which means there must be some difference (I hope). Regarding the vapor barrier. What is the best material to use? And can penofol be used? Do we need foil at all in our case? And how to attach it to the teplex? Is there a difference between Teplex and Penoplex? How do you attach them to brickwork? Do I need to prepare the wall with something: level it with plaster, treat it with an antiseptic? And will such floor insulation be enough: floor slab + teplex + water floor + screed? Is it necessary and can something be added on top of the screed?

Helpful answer? Not really

“The ban on the removal of water heaters beyond the heating circuit is connected”not"with the fact that the pressure drops in the heating devices", but with the fact that in the cold season, with insufficient thermal insulation of the loggia in the event of emergency situations (for example, interruptions in electricity or gas supply), the risk of water freezing in pipes increases with their subsequent rupture. Of course, the scale of such a "disaster" is not as great as in a house with central heating - flood the lower neighbors, worst case, but still, serious consequences can occur. That is why it is better to entrust the safety check of the operation of your apartment after redevelopment to specialists. And remember one important detail: Builders are not one of those professionals.- tested many times personal experience. About windows. "Some special" warm "windows", like " The builders said", does not exist in nature. (Another confirmation of the incompetence of builders). The parameter characterizing the heat-saving characteristics of windows (and not only) is heat transfer resistance, which has the unit of m2*оС/W. (Just like, for example, a meter is a measure of length). If you find this value in the window passport, then you can compare it with the same value of another window. The higher this indicator, the less heat the window lets through to the street (the better this window is). For vapor barrier, you can use an ordinary film. You can ask for construction market what kind of film builders use for this. Penofol can also be used. There are self-adhesive varieties of penofol (izolon, folgoizol, etc.), but you should not rely on the “native” adhesive layer alone. Better play it safe in an additional way mounts. For example, ensure that the material is pressed against the teplex with lathing slats or attached with a stapler. It is important that there are no gaps or damage in the vapor barrier layer. The joints of the sheets of penofol and the places of its fastening with a stapler will need to be sealed with foil tape (for a film - with ordinary transparent tape). Teplex and penoplex have the same thermal conductivity (no difference). This material can be attached to the wall with mounting glue and (or) special dowels for thermal insulation with “hats” (“mushrooms”) - market sellers know what it is. A tile is best suited over a warm floor screed. Other materials have low thermal conductivity and therefore will reduce the heating efficiency.

Helpful answer? Not really

27250 0 12

Internal and exterior finish chimney pipes: set simple options for independent implementation

In a residential area, the presence of a stove or fireplace is a blessing, but not always appearance chimney matches the interior. If this is your case, then from this article you will learn how and how to finish the pipe in the house. And not only indoors, but also outside, so that the whole structure meets current trends architecture.

What to rely on when developing a project

Appearance and original design this is of course important, but before you finish the pipe in the house, you should think about safety. O severe consequences I think you can guess.

So, in order not to make mistakes and not burn down the house, for a start it will not be superfluous to familiarize yourself with the standards. In this case should be guided by SNiP 41-01-2003, it is this instruction that regulates the installation and operation of heating, ventilation and air conditioning. The document is voluminous, so I wrote out the main theses for you.

• If combustible heat-insulating and finishing materials for the chimney are selected, then the temperature of their spontaneous ignition must be at least 20 ° C higher than the maximum possible temperature of the pipe. The same rule applies to all structures and objects surrounding the chimney within a radius of half a meter;
• Able to corrode metal products must have an appropriate coating that protects the surface from corrosion;
• The walls of brick chimneys made of heat-resistant bricks should not be thinner than 120 mm. If it's about refractory concrete, then the wall thickness of such pipes starts from 60 mm;
• The use of metal and asbestos-cement structures for the arrangement of the chimney is allowed only if there is a factory quality certificate that allows the operation of products at high temperatures;

The use of asbestos-cement and thin-walled stainless pipes in coal or coke ovens is strictly prohibited. These materials are not able to withstand the temperature of gases in such a chimney.

• The mouth of the chimney ( top point on the roof) must be equipped with an umbrella, deflector or other protective structure that prevents debris and precipitation from entering the chimney. At the same time, protective structures should not interfere with the exit flue gases;
• Distance from brick and heat-insulated chimneys to roof rafters and other wooden structures should not be less than 130 mm. If a heat-resistant ceramic pipe without thermal insulation, the safety distance increases to 250 mm.

When choosing both the chimney itself and the finish for the surface of the chimney inside or outside, you should consider the type of fuel that your boiler or stove will run on. The flue gas temperature directly depends on this.

Chimney interior finishes

Often, all major furnaces, fireplaces and boilers are installed on the ground floor, and sometimes even in the basement of the building. Accordingly, the chimney will pass through 3 levels and we will have to finish each level:

1. Sector from oven to interfloor overlap or attic;
2. Zone attic floor or second floor
3. Transition through the roof and part of the structure located on the roof.

Finishing the chimney above the stove

In this case, it all depends on which heating unit you are dealing with. brick ovens and fireplaces, as a rule, have the same brick chimney. Similar designs rarely need additional decor, since the brick itself already looks good.

But if a second-rate brick was used to build a chimney or finishing material does not fit at all with the design you have chosen, then you have to choose between hinged heat-resistant panels, tiling and plastering.

It is not difficult to guess that the most heat flue gases - at the outlet of the furnace. Therefore, I do not recommend installing thermal insulation and equipping some exotic decor on top of it. After all, you built the stove in order to be warm, and if you “wrap” it in thermal insulation, then all the heat will fly away.

The first tile that comes across for cladding may not be suitable. glaze on regular tiles simply cracked from the temperature. In Russia, since ancient times, the so-called tiles were used to decorate furnaces. If you do not go into the intricacies of technology, tiles are the same tile, only heat-resistant.

But the price of highly artistic beautiful tiles, to put it mildly, is frightening. More affordable option will be clad with clinker tiles. The assortment of clinker in stores is huge. plus all similar material is heat resistant.

In this case, we are interested in double-fired tiles. It is porous, which means it will not heat up so much. You can recognize it by the marking - the number 2 will be on the tongue of the flame.

I won’t talk about the technology of laying tiles for a long time, since it is the same everywhere. Primer for the preparation of a brick pipe, heat-resistant tile adhesive and grout are in special departments.

First, the tiles will need to be soaked in water for 15 minutes. While it gets wet, you dilute the tile adhesive according to the instructions on the package. Next, take a comb trowel and apply glue to the tile and to the base, after which you glue the tile to the base.

The gaps between the tiles are maintained with plastic crosses. The next day, when the glue sets, you will need to pull out the plastic crosses and fill the gaps with grout. Usually the grout hardens within 2-3 days, after which you can heat the stove.

This is general technology, so be sure to read the instructions on all packages, the preparation time of the compositions can vary greatly.

Another worthy option finishing is use hinged panels porcelain stoneware. The material is beautiful and durable, but expensive. Porcelain stoneware has an ideal glossy surface, so many unknowingly confuse these slabs with marble.

To hang such plates, you will have to fix them on the structure. metal carcass. It is better to take special profiles for the frame, but if they are not found, then mount the same ones as for drywall. To fix the frame on the pipe, you can use self-expanding metal anchors or special heat-resistant dowels.

Plates are hung on special hooks. Porcelain tile itself can be taken any one you like. This material is fired at a temperature of 1400ºС, so the chimney will certainly not harm it.

When you mount any hinged material on high temperature surfaces, the panels must not be fixed rigidly. When heated, almost all materials expand and you need to leave a small damper gap, at least 3 - 4 mm.

Round ceramic or metal chimneys are also finished in a frame way. That is, first you mount a frame around the pipe, and then decorate this frame.

In addition to the above-mentioned metal frame made of UD and CD profiles, a ceramic version is available for round chimneys. At the same time, such ceramic products are first wrapped in a heat-insulating cocoon, and then the ceramic sections are mounted. Such a pipe often no longer needs additional finishing.

Finishing the chimney on the second floor or in an adjacent room

It was not in vain that I mentioned the adjoining room. Now many city dwellers, without waiting for mercy from public utilities, install AGV in their apartments. Naturally, specialists install everything there, and the pipe is led horizontally through the wall to the street.

Sometimes such a chimney passes through a loggia or balcony. And I am often asked how to finish a balcony with a pipe from a heating boiler, and what materials can be used for this.

So, the balcony can be finished with any materials. No fire hazard in this case no. The fact is that for AGV and some other models of gas boilers, a coaxial chimney is used.

This pipe has a two-circuit design:

1. Exhaust gases exit to the street along the internal circuit;
2. And through the outer contour in closed cell combustion air enters.

Thus, these units for work use the air taken from the street. For those who do not understand, below I have placed a diagram.

Accordingly, when such a coaxial pipe passes through a balcony or loggia, you can decorate it as you like. As outer part she has a metal and more importantly, from above this pipe is actually cold.

Usually coaxial pipes just paint. Sometimes a wooden or metal frame is built around them, and this frame is already sheathed with some interior decoration, for example, clapboard or plastic panels.

Finishing the chimney on the second floor or in attic done only with the use of thermal insulation. In the first case, thermal insulation is needed so that you yourself or one of your household members do not get burned on a hot chimney.

As for the unheated attic floor, if you do not insulate the chimney in this sector, condensate will settle on its inside. As a result, it will begin to constantly overgrow with soot and actively collapse.

On the heated second floor without insulation, you can leave only a powerful brick pipe. Flue gases in this sector are no longer as hot. Plus brickwork It will be a good protection against overheating and it is impossible to seriously burn yourself about it. Usually such pipes are simply tiled or plastered.

The newfangled metal sandwich pipe does not need finishing at all. This design is initially equipped with powerful thermal insulation, and its body is made of perfectly polished stainless steel.

Only non-insulated ceramic and metal chimneys need to be finished on the second floor. Brick and insulated sandwich pipes are decorated as desired.

Usually an open pipe on the second floor is enclosed in a cocoon of dense basalt wool, which covers it throughout the area, to the very. After that, a frame is built and a finish is mounted on it. Of course, this is much easier and faster.

But one of my acquaintances did more reasonably. His method provides for both maximum heat transfer from hot pipe and protecting people from accidental burns. Plus, this design looks quite attractive.

A ceramic pipe was originally installed for the chimney, the design is durable and reliable, but it gets very hot. I didn’t want to lose precious heat on the second floor, so the man built around the pipe load-bearing frame from metal profiles.

The frame itself was made square and sewn up from the inside with cotton basalt slabs with high density, 50 mm thick. A gap of 50 mm was left between the thermal insulation and the chimney. But the heat-insulating cocoon was made not solid, but with two ventilation windows.

One window was made at floor level, and the second was almost at ceiling level. Both above and below the ventilation gaps ran horizontally around the entire perimeter of the structure.

Everyone knows that warm air rises up and so that the ceiling does not burn from ascending flows, a layer of basalt wool is glued on it and a stainless steel plate is fixed on top of it.

Outside, the metal frame was sheathed with fire-resistant drywall (GKLO) and plastered over the entire plane. At the same time, a person installed a decorative mesh on the upper and lower ventilation gaps around the entire perimeter of the plasterboard frame.

There was an idea to additionally install small fans on the ventilation gaps, but after a month of operation they realized that everything works well without them.

At floor level, cool air is drawn into the lower ventilation gap. From the chimney, it quickly heats up and exits through the top ventilation. The stove itself is built with high quality, so both floors are evenly heated in half an hour.

Fire-resistant drywall can be decorated with anything. After puttying, it is easiest to paste over the box with wallpaper or apply decorative plaster.

If you wish, the sheets can be tiled, in this case, any one will do, since thermal insulation is installed inside. Plus, the drywall box itself can be made with niches and this will already be an original design.

Arrangement of a chimney on the roof

The arrangement of the chimney on the roof and the passage through the roof is perhaps the most difficult and milestone. If inside the building a pipe without finishing simply spoils the interior, and even by negligence you can get burned on it, then the exterior finish is, first of all, protecting the chimney from destruction and only then a beautiful decor.

Pipe penetration through the roof

The easiest way is to equip the passage of a round insulated sandwich pipe through the roof. Here you can do without complete disassembly roofing cake.

• I start this installation with inside roofs. If you are dealing with an equipped roof, then it is first dismantled decorative coating on the ceiling. There you will most likely find vapor barrier membrane, followed by a layer of insulation and a windproof film. All this will need to be cut to fit your pipe;

When arranging furnaces, chimneys, boilers and other high-temperature equipment, it is possible to insulate all this economy only with basalt mineral wool. Its melting point starts at 900ºС, glass wool melts already at 450ºС. and it is strictly forbidden to use such heaters as polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and penoizol, they emit carcinogens already at 70ºС.

• cut a hole under round pipe in a roof covering it is more convenient, being on a roof. But in order not to be mistaken, I drill several holes from below along the contour of the future pipe;
• Now from below to the crate, on top of the vapor barrier, the lower flange ring is fastened with self-tapping screws;

• Further work will be carried out on the roof. According to the designations made earlier, a hole is cut out for the pipe, after which you can immediately install a sandwich pipe;
• To seal the junction of a round chimney with roofing, the industry introduces special corrugated flanges made of soft polymer, they can withstand temperatures up to 270ºС.

The corrugation in them is made in the form of a cone. You only need to cut it in the right place so that the hole on the soft flange is slightly less than the diameter of the pipe;

• Then lubricate the flange with soap and pull it tightly on top of the pipe. The base of the flange is made of a flexible metal, usually aluminum or copper. It will be necessary to tap this metal ring with a rubber mallet so that it takes the form of a roof;
• At the final stage, lubricate the joint with sealant and screw the curved flange to the roof with self-tapping screws.

Sometimes the pipes from the boiler and the fireplace are brought out in one place, then the exit is equipped with a package, and this package is immediately decorated. Rectangular outer frame under such a package is most often made of wood. Wood in this case is impregnated with flame retardants, although no one forbids collecting it from metal profiles.

From the inside, the frame is sheathed with basalt thermal insulation. And for outer cladding There are several options, I will talk about them a little later.

The passage through the roof of a brick pipe and a rectangular frame with a package of pipes is carried out in almost the same way. But a brick chimney is a little more difficult to seal, so I will talk about it.

It is better to seal a brick pipe even before installation roofing. If such coverage already lies, then this sector will have to be opened, otherwise quality finishes will not work.

To prevent water from leaking, you will need to equip 2 aprons. The bottom apron is considered the main one and is mounted under roofing material on the crate. The top apron is installed on top of the roofing and is more responsible for the decor.

We start naturally with the bottom apron. In most cases, it is made of galvanized sheet with a thickness of 0.5 - 0.7 mm. The whole structure consists of 4 sectors, according to the number of planes of the pipe.

The lower part of the apron is placed on the roof sheathing, the width of this sector is about 300 mm. Further, the sheet bends and rises along the pipe, here the width is 150 - 200 mm.

Assembly of the lower apron from segments.

For wooden and metal frames, this is enough. When it comes to brick pipes, the upper edge of the apron is bent towards the pipe at 90º by about 10 more mm.

• First, all parts of the apron are applied to the installation site and a line is marked along the perimeter of the pipe;

• Then, along this line, a grinder cuts a strobe with a depth of about 10 - 15 mm. This strobe is immediately cleaned and washed with water;
• Now we fill the strobe with a heat-resistant sealant and immediately, before it hardens, we install all 4 parts of the apron in their place. At the same time, the upper bend on the apron enters the strobe filled with sealant;
• Ideally, all sectors of the apron should be soldered. But in practice, craftsmen usually overlap the planes, coat the joints with sealant and screw them to the base with self-tapping screws with press washers;
• There is one more important point: below the pipe along the roof slope, you will need to install the so-called tie - a wide galvanized sheet that is wound under the bottom apron and lowered to the roof cut or to the nearest valley. The sheet is taken wider than the pipe by 50 cm on each side, this is a kind of insurance in case the roof leaks near the pipe.

Such a corrugation is screwed to the pipe finish with self-tapping screws with press washers. And it bends around the roof with a rubber hammer. Sometimes top aprons are made of rigid galvanized sheet, but they are more difficult to seal.

Rooftop chimney lining options

As I said, the chimney sandwich pipe does not require any finishing. There you will need to install only a protective upper deflector.

If you equip a wooden or metal frame for the output of a pipe package, then there are 3 cladding options for it:

1. Cheaper and easier to sheathe wooden frame with a package of profiled pipes. Such sheets are elementarily simply attached to self-tapping screws with a press washer. For the arrangement of corners and the upper edge, special fittings are produced. The owners, who have chosen metal tiles for their roof, often finish the chimneys with it, and so the technology here is the same as when finishing with a profiled sheet;
2. If there is a desire to plaster the frame under the chimney, then from above this frame is sheathed with asbestos-cement slabs and they are already plastered;
3. I have even seen pipes lined with fiber cement siding. Looks nice but fiber cement siding the thing is heavy and the frame for it needs an appropriate one. Therefore, it is better to entrust such a finish to a professional.

Do not try to line the chimney vinyl siding. Remember that you are dealing with a hot surface and the plastic can simply melt.

Facing a brick pipe with a profiled sheet is even easier than frame structure. It will be necessary to fix several wooden bars or metal profiles on it and fasten the cladding. By the way, it is advisable to lay basalt wadded slabs between the planks of the crate, on the street the temperature difference is especially harmful to the structures.

Trim the old ones that have lost their appearance brick pipes, in addition to facing with a profiled sheet, there are two more ways: clinker tiles and plaster. In both cases, the technology is approximately the same.

Naturally, the surface will first need to be cleaned and primed. Since we are dealing with constant temperature changes, the pipe will need to be reinforced. In this case, it is better to choose galvanized steel for reinforcement. metal mesh. We fix the mesh with anchors or heat-resistant dowels.

For the rough layer, I knead cement-sand mortar, only sand is better to take not ordinary, but expanded clay. Expanded clay inclusions will work as a heater.

You will need to try to level the rough layer well, and then think about what you are doing best. You can lay tiles or apply a layer of finishing plaster. By the way, instead of clinker tiles, the chimney can be overlaid natural stone, the technology is the same, only without plastic crosses.

Conclusion

As you can see, finishing a chimney in a private house is quite within the power home master, there is something to choose from, there would be a desire. In the photo and video in this article, I picked additional material for the arrangement and decoration of chimneys. If you still have questions after watching, write them in the comments, we'll talk.

November 21, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!