Roof 4 x pitched. How to make a hipped roof at home with your own hands

When a potential owner starts building a personal home, he does not even suspect what lies ahead for him. Especially if this is a person who does not have much experience in construction matters. He has a lot of questions. And everyone needs to decide correctly so that future generations can admire the created masterpiece for many years!

Then it will be family property that can be passed on to generations. Building a personal home means this. And here, like no other, a professional team is needed. It is in it that there are specialists with experience and the necessary knowledge. They know how to make a hip roof. But, in this case, the customer should not stand aside, but follow the course of events and help the team. This is the only way to build your own house!

In this article

Elements of a 4-pitched roof

As part of the roof there are four planes that intersect, slopes. Two of them are triangular in shape. It is for them that the name is end elements. They themselves, as it were, replace the pediments. The two elements that remain are trapezoidal. They are called facade. The angle of inclination for slopes is in the parameters from 15 degrees to 60. In this case, any coating material is used. Its appearance depends on the preference of the owner of the building. The four-slope design consists of elements:

  • insulation;
  • hip roof;
  • a ridge located at the intersection of the planes of the slopes;
  • stingrays. These are the four surfaces of the roof, located at angles to its very base;
  • overhangs, these are parts of the roof that protrude beyond the perimeter of its base. They are needed to protect the walls of the building from possible water ingress. They are formed by increasing the legs of the rafters. Sometimes fillies are used for the purpose;
  • stopped systems. It is not visible from the outside at all, but plays the role of a frame. This is a four-pitched roof support. Form its configuration;
  • drainage system, which can ensure the removal of excess fluid from the roof. It could be an external drain. As part of its gutters, a funnel for receiving water, pipes located in a vertical direction;
  • snow retainers, small sides, tripled along the edges of the slopes. They prevent snow from falling.

This is a classic type of hip design. Its advantages are strength, beautiful appearance. Deficiency is a relative type of complexity. And also significant cost. For many potential customers, this is a decisive argument. Not many people know how to properly equip it. There is a lot to know before you start calculating the construction area and material requirements. To make a hip roof with your own hands. For example, you need to know the design features of the roof, the composition of its elements to be calculated.

Its main elements:


Calculation

This design is considered complex. The finished house will be the pride of the owner. For this reason, even before work on the installation of the roof, it is necessary to develop a project. In order not to get into trouble, not to make mistakes with the calculations, it is necessary to involve good specialists in the calculations. Preferably an engineer from a design organization.

Practice has long proved that it is impossible to save money on attracting great specialists. Otherwise, the completion of work on calculations and design is fraught with negative consequences. There will be big losses later. Namely, when the construction will almost end. Only the most simple drawings or elements, the potential owner, can calculate on their own. But no more! Self-confident people are especially affected in these cases.

Determining the location for the location of the rafters, ridge beam

For the purpose of determining a place for structures, it is necessary:

  • mark the line for the axis located in the center, starting from the ends of the building, work should be done at the level of the top of the eaves. So determine the place for the location of the skate;
  • using a ruler with gradation, which is located at one end on the marked line of the ridge beam, and with the other rests on the side wall, determine the place for installing the rafters;
  • after which the length for the overhang is determined with a ruler. At this point, the ruler should extend beyond the outside of the wall;
  • exactly the same procedure is performed along the entire length of the specific wall that is currently being considered.

The procedure is repeated for the remaining walls. So they get places for mounting a ridge beam, rafters. Making the calculations is a bit easier. To do this, you can use tables for coefficients. They indicate the ratio of certain indicators. For example: roof pitch/length for intermediate rafter/length for corner rafter.

Area calculation

Once the parameters for the rafter system are determined, their specific location is determined. You can begin to calculate the area to cover the hip roof. Now we need to divide it into fragments. These will be the slopes. And for each it is necessary to calculate the area, taking into account the overhangs.

You can use formulas that you studied at school for calculations. After the calculations, their results must be added to the sum. The result of the addition is the total area of ​​the hip roof. But that is not all. We must not forget that the area of ​​​​the pipes for the chimney, and also the windows, should be subtracted from this amount. After all, they are also located on the structure.

Calculation of tilt angles

This calculation takes into account the amount of possible precipitation, the degree of loading from winds and snow. Appointment of the attic, roof covering material, etc. Only because of the complexity of the calculations can specialized programs be used. In order not to make irreparable mistakes, it is necessary at this moment to attract people whose specialty is the design of the private sector. After all, this is your home!

There is also a half-hipped roof in construction, hipped, broken. All are preferred. The semi-hip roof differs from the classical one in that its hips have a truncated shape. This type of structure is characterized by good operating characteristics. Attractive appearance. But this solution is difficult and expensive. Requires a lot of knowledge!

Roofs with four slopes have higher reliability and resistance to stress. This design is much more complicated than the usual gable, and installation takes more time. And yet, a do-it-yourself hipped roof is a completely doable task, if you properly prepare and study in detail the intricacies of its device.

The four-pitched roof has many variations. The simplest design consists of 2 trapezoidal slopes connected in the center of the roof, and 2 triangular slopes from the side of the gables. Sometimes all four slopes are made triangular, then the roof edges converge at a central point. More complex designs involve broken lines, a combination of short slopes with gables, built-in straight and sloping windows, as well as multi-level slopes.

It is impossible to build a truss system of this configuration without the appropriate experience, so it is better to pay attention to the standard hip roof.

The slope of the slopes can have an angle of 5 to 60 degrees. To calculate the optimal slope value, the following factors must be taken into account:


Gentle slopes are not suitable for arranging an attic, as they take up too much free space. Therefore, if the attic is planned in the project of the house, the angle of inclination of the roof should be 45 degrees or more. You can choose the angle of inclination depending on the type of roofing using the table.

Atmospheric loads are also of great importance. Where a lot of snow falls, you can not make a slope of less than 30 degrees, otherwise the rafter system will not withstand the loads. If the slope angle is more than 60 degrees, the snow load can be ignored. In addition to these factors, you should consider the location of objects such as water tanks or ventilation chambers. Usually they are suspended from the rafters and put an additional load on them. After preliminary calculations, you can begin to draw up a drawing of the truss system.

Roofing materials

Like a gable, hip roof, it consists of a Mauerlat, puffs, rafters, support posts, a ridge beam and a crate. The difference between the second design is the location of the rafters and their length. For a pitched roof, it is recommended to use pine or larch lumber, of good quality, without defects, with a maximum moisture content of 22%.

Rafters are made of boards with a section of 50x100 mm; if the roof area is very large, it is better to take boards 50x200 mm. For Mauerlat, you need a solid beam with a section of at least 150x150 mm. Additionally, you will need metal threaded studs for attaching the Mauerlat, boards for battens and overhead metal plates, with which the wooden elements are connected.

Lumber before assembling the roof must be impregnated with an antiseptic.

In the process, you will need tools:

  • hacksaw;
  • building level;
  • plumb and tape measure;
  • a hammer;
  • drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • chisel;
  • Circular Saw.

Rafter system installation technology

Step 1. Laying the Mauerlat

In houses made of timber, the functions of the mauerlat are performed by the last crown of the log house, in which special grooves are cut out for the rafters. In brick houses, the mauerlat is laid on the walls around the perimeter of the box, having previously secured metal threaded studs between the bricks of the last rows. To more accurately mark the holes for the fasteners, the beam is lifted and laid on top of the tips of the studs, and then hit with a hammer. After that, clear marks remain on the tree, along which holes are drilled.

Having removed the drilling beam, the surface of the walls is covered with one or two layers of waterproofing material, usually roofing material. It is placed directly on the studs and pressed down. Next, the Mauerlat is laid, aligning the holes with the studs, align them horizontally and screw the nuts tightly onto the threads. At the corners, the bars are connected with metal plates or brackets. After fixing, the timber should not move even a millimeter, because the reliability of the entire rafter system depends on this.

Step 2 Mounting the Racks

If the house does not have a central load-bearing wall, it is necessary to lay the support beam perpendicular to the load-bearing floor beams. Connect two boards with a section of 50x200 mm, leaving a gap of 50 mm between them. To do this, short bars 50 mm thick are inserted between the boards and nailed. The distance between the bars is about 1.5 m, the beams are not fastened at the ends. Having measured out the middle of the attic, the support beam is laid so that its ends extend beyond the boundaries of the Mauerlat by 10-15 cm.

Now they take 3 boards 50x150 mm, cut them to the height of the roof, and use a plumb line to install them on the support beam. Each post should rest against the beam where the boards are connected by a bar. Racks are temporarily strengthened with jibs from the bars. The top of the racks is connected with a ridge beam, which is used as a board 50x200 mm.

Step 3. Fixing the central rafters

They take a rafter board and apply it with one end to the ridge beam, and with the other end to the Mauerlat from the front side of the building. Immediately adjust the length of the cornice overhang, cut off the excess. The cut lines are marked with a pencil, after which the upper end of the board is cut off and a groove is made in the Mauerlat by 1/3 of the rafter width. The board is nailed to the ridge, the lower edge is inserted into the groove on the Mauerlat and secured with metal plates.

In the same way, the rest of the rafters are made and installed in 60 cm increments from the facade of the house. The edge boards should be perpendicular to the ridge beam and fastened at its ends. On the opposite side of the building, everyone does the same. On the hips there is only one rafter on each side: the board is placed on the edge and fastened with the upper end to the ridge beam, and the lower end is inserted between the boards of the support beam and fixed with nails.

Step 4. Attaching the corner rafters

For the manufacture of corner rafters, two boards with a section of 50x150 mm are usually connected. In one of the upper corners of the box, at the junction of the Mauerlat beams, a nail is driven in and a thin cord is tied on it. At the junction point of the ridge and the central rafter, a nail is also driven in from the side of the hip, a cord is pulled to it and fixed. So designate a line of diagonal, or angular, rafters. Their length must be the same, otherwise the roof will be uneven. The prepared rafter is lifted up, placed along the markings and connected to the ridge beam and Mauerlat. The overhang of the rafter is approximately 50-70 cm.

Step 5 Installing the Jigs

To fix the diagonal rafters, sprigs are used - shortened rafters, resting on the Mauerlat with their lower end and located at right angles to the ridge beam. They are fastened in increments of 60 cm, starting from the outermost ordinary rafter. As you approach the diagonal, the jocks make everything shorter. Now it is necessary to strengthen the structure with puffs and braces, as well as install additional vertical supports.

If the span under the diagonal rafter is more than 7 m, it is required to install another support at a distance of a quarter of the span from the corner of the attic. The lower end of the rack should rest on the floor beam. In the case when the beam is located further than the designated place or is completely absent, instead of a vertical stand, a sprengel is attached - a horizontal jumper made of timber, the ends of which are nailed to the spears.

Step 5. Mounting the crate

When all the supports are installed, you can fill the crate. For a four-pitched roof, the crate is performed in the same way as for a gable roof. First, a waterproofing membrane is attached, on each slope separately. The joints are carefully glued with adhesive tape, and then thin slats are stuffed over the membrane to provide an air gap. Boards are stuffed in increments of up to 40 cm, depending on the type of roof, and always perpendicular to the rafters.

On this, the assembly of the truss system is considered complete. It remains only to insulate the structure, lay the roofing, mount the windshields and sheathe the overhangs. To make the hipped roof look more stylish, it is recommended to install sloping or straight windows on the slopes.

Video - Do-it-yourself four-pitched roof

When building your own home, a lot of responsibility falls on your shoulders. You have to deal with a bunch of issues and participate in the construction process. After all, a reliable roof over your head will provide a comfortable life.

Difficulties always attract a person. After all, it is not in vain that they say: “We are not looking for easy ways.” This is what happens in construction. The four-pitched roof has a complex shape, giving the building a special look. This architecture attracts many. This type is especially popular in the construction of country houses. On a one-story house, a good option would be to build a hipped roof.

In this article

View

The location on different sides of 4 slopes gives your home a solid look. Often, the slopes have a different shape: a pair of them is obtained in the form of a triangle and plays the role of a pediment, and some are shaped like a trapezoid.

Difficulties with a hipped roof during calculations and installation scare away many who wish, but if you do not doubt your abilities, then you can safely build it.

Design Benefits

A four-pitched roof with your own hands has the following advantages:

  • the absence of gables makes the roof more durable and resistant to gusts of wind. This type of roof is suitable for areas with windy weather conditions;
  • the presence of 4 slopes more effectively copes with the removal of melt and rain water, as well as snow;
  • the attic space becomes more spacious, which is ideal for the location of the attic;
  • the construction of a 4-pitched roof will cost no more than other types.

Types

When making a hipped roof with your own hands, you can distinguish several of its subspecies:

  • hip - is a classic option. It has 2 triangular hips and 2 slopes in the shape of a trapezoid;
  • half-hip - has slightly shortened slopes. Perfectly used for the attic;
  • tent - executed in the form of a pyramid. Ideal for a square building.

Project

Before proceeding directly to construction, it is necessary to create a roof project in order not to make mistakes in the future. How to build a roof? In this case, a step-by-step instruction will help. Having familiarized ourselves with the design of the house, proceed to the following:

  • we calculate the angle of inclination of the slopes, based on indicators such as wind load, precipitation in your area, type of roofing material. In areas with strong gusts of wind, it is advisable to make the angle of inclination less than 30 degrees, thus, the windage will decrease. In areas that are constantly flooded with precipitation, the desired roof angle is not lower than 65 degrees to prevent the accumulation of snow and water. In areas with a more or less stable climate, a roof from 40 to 50 degrees is perfect. For each type of material, the manufacturer indicates the lowest operating angle;
  • we calculate the height of the ridge using a series of simple geometry formulas.

Rafter system design

The truss system of the hipped roof forms the roof frame. It is made up of the following elements:

  • mauerlat - a beam located along the perimeter of the walls and distributing the load on them. The four-pitched roof has 4 beams. If the house is wooden, then the blocks of the upper crowns will be the Mauerlat. In a brick house, a concrete belt is created over the walls, into which special studs are embedded. Then the Mauerlat is attached to them;
  • the ridge beam, or run, is above all elements. The upper part of the rafters is attached to it. At a 4-pitched roof, it is less than the length of the house;
  • rafter legs - boards that create the geometry of the slopes. Their cross section is 50 x 150 mm. A four-pitched roof uses 3 types of rafters: slanting, ordinary, outdoor. Installation of ordinary rafter legs is carried out on slopes in the form of a trapezoid. Sloping rafters are made from a more durable material, since the load on them is greater. The upper part of the slats rests on the ridge run, and the lower part rests on the angle of the Mauerlat. The hip is formed by outdoor rafters. They focus on the diagonal rafter legs and the support beam;

  • bed - a bar that lays a supporting wall located inside the building. Functionally, the bed transfers the weight and distributes it to the foundation;
  • vertical supports - racks, mounting takes place on a bed. They are a support for the middle of the rafters and run;
  • rafter leg, or brace. The angle of its installation is 45 degrees to the rafter. The emphasis is on the rack. It is used so that the rafters do not sag, to transfer part of the weight to the bearing wall;
  • sprengel is used to support the rafters. This is a vertical support, similar to a rack. Sprengel farms are used most often;
  • puff, or bolt, - bars of a horizontal position that grab the rafter pairs in the upper and lower parts;
  • filly - boards that extend the rafters and protect the walls from dampness, forming a roof overhang.

Installation procedure

A four-pitched roof begins with the installation of a Mauerlat, which we lay along the perimeter of the walls. Its cross section is 150 x 150 mm. When placing it is necessary to control its level. The beam should be located 5-7 cm from the edge of the wall. Fastening is carried out on pre-walled studs. Nuts are screwed on top. Such a beam will connect the design of the rafters and the walls of the house into a single whole.

To install racks, you need a bed and floor beams. The size of the beam of such elements is 100 x 200 mm. Installation of supports is carried out vertically with fastening with plates or a corner. When using a hip roof, the racks are placed in 1 row, and a run is attached on top. The hipped roof involves the placement of supports diagonally. Equal distances are laid off from the corner. Thus, a rectangle is obtained on which the runs are laid. We fix everything with the help of a corner.

Roof truss installation

The next step is to make rafter templates. We install side rafters on them. A thin board is suitable for blanking. We apply it to the run and mark it washed down. With the second end, which is located at the Mauerlat, we also note washed down. We make the required number of rafters using a template. After choosing the mounting step, we make the installation. The step can be from 60 cm to 1 m. We make the connection with self-tapping screws.

The angle of inclination of the slope is determined by the rafters. They are arranged diagonally for additional load. Often double boards are used for them. We also make cuts according to the template. The upper part of the rafters is connected with a crossbar to give strength.

The hipped roof connects the rafters near the ridge using puffs. Installation occurs at an angle of 90 degrees. We connect with wire clamps to the walls.

We fasten the sprigs to the diagonal rafters. Their length can be varied, but they must be parallel to each other. Ordinary and outdoor rafters together form side slopes.

The four-pitched roof with their own hands came to an end. The last step is its insulation with basalt wool or expanded polystyrene. We lay the material between the rafters. A layer of waterproofing will protect from moisture. The crate directly depends on the type of roof material.

In this video, you can learn more about the construction and design of a four-pitched hip roof:

Building a house with your own hands is a long and laborious process, as well as very costly in finance. If you wish, you can save on the installation of the roof and do the installation of a 4-pitched roof with your own hands.

A four-pitched roof is the most popular type of roof, which is also quite easy to build with your own hands. If you have at least minimal skills and experience in construction work, then, following the instructions, you can build a roof yourself. The choice of a 4-pitched design is explained by its many advantages - this is the effective removal of rainwater and snow, resistance to wind loads. under such a roof, you can equip a spacious attic. An important role is played by the cost of building a roof, a 4-pitched roof is a fairly economical option.

Kinds

There are several types of roofs with 4 slopes. The most popular is the so-called hip roof. It consists of two trapezoids and two triangles. Trapezoidal slopes are connected to each other along the upper edge, and triangular ones join them from the frontal sides.

Another common option is four triangular surfaces connected at one central point. You can also create almost any project that involves slopes at different levels, different shapes, with a broken connection line, etc.

If you are not a professional in the field of construction, then when creating a 4-pitched roof, stop at the hip roof as the easiest to install.

How to make a 4-pitched roof with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

Before proceeding with the installation of the roof, it is necessary to draw up its project. Calculations can be carried out independently, since there is nothing complicated in this. The main thing is understanding what this or that parameter on the diagram depends on.

Slope angle

When calculating the angle of inclination of the slopes, three indicators are used:

  • rainfall in the region
  • roof material
  • The slope can be from 5 to 60 degrees. You should also consider whether you will equip the attic space. If the slopes are too gentle, then the height of the attic will be small - it will be impossible to make a living room here. Thus, for the construction of the attic, the slope of the slopes should be no more than 45 degrees.

    If the area is characterized by frequent gusty winds or a large amount of precipitation in winter, you should not make a roof with an angle of inclination of less than 30 degrees.

    If the slope is 60 degrees or more, then the atmospheric phenomena of the climatic zone can be ignored.

    As for the roofing material, the building codes provide for minimum values ​​for each of them.

    • Roll materials made on the basis of bitumen can be laid horizontally.
    • Asbestos cement and clay tiles - at an angle of 9 degrees.
    • Roofing materials made of steel - a slope of 18 degrees or more.
    • Wood - from 34 degrees.

    Height

    The height of the roof is the parameter that will need to be calculated. We know the area of ​​the base since the box is built. The angle of inclination of the roof was calculated in the previous step. Thus, using simple formulas from the time of the school curriculum, it will be possible to calculate the height of the ridge.

    Training. Necessary tools and materials

    Prepare all the necessary tools in advance so that later you will not be distracted by their search. You will need:

    • hacksaw
    • measuring instruments: plumb, level and tape measure
    • chisel
    • circular saw
    • drill
    • screwdriver
    • a hammer

    Of the materials, the main role is given to roofing. Do not forget also about the fasteners with which it will be attached to the truss system.

    High-quality lumber is used for the sheathing of a hipped roof, larch or pine wood is suitable.

    The maximum moisture content of boards and beams is 22%.

    • For rafters - boards 50 x 100 mm or 50 x 200 mm
    • For Mauerlat - timber 150 x150 mm or more
    • Lathing boards

    Also purchase metal threaded studs and metal plates - these elements will be used for fastening. You will also need an antiseptic for pre-treatment of wood. To complete the installation of the roof as quickly as possible, prepare the hydro- and heat-insulating material that is provided for by the project.

    truss system

    1. Mauerlat. This is the base of the truss system, which is made of thick timber. If you are making a roof on a log house, then the last crown of the log house will play the role of the Mauerlat. If the house is brick, then the Mauerlat installation is also designed in advance. A concrete belt is made under it, into which metal studs are immured. A beam is subsequently fixed on them.
    2. Skate ride. This is the uppermost part of the system, a thick beam, on which the rafters will subsequently be attached.
    3. Rafter. These elements are boards from which the main frame is created.
      • diagonal rafters connect the corners of the Mauerlat and the ridge run
      • row rafters are mounted on trapezoidal slopes
      • rafter semi-legs rest on the Mauerlat, and on the other hand, on the diagonal rafters
    4. Sill. It is installed parallel to the ridge run on the load-bearing wall. Its task is to transfer part of the weight of the roof to the frame.
    5. Support racks. They connect the bed and the ridge run together, make the structure more durable.
    6. Struts. They lean on the bed and support the diagonal rafters to reduce the load on them.
    7. Other auxiliary structural elements are sprengel, puffs, fillies, crossbars. They support certain parts of the crate and relieve them of the load.

    Stages of work on the installation of the frame

    1. Installation of Mauerlat and bed.
    2. Installation of vertical racks in increments of 1000 - 1200 mm.
    3. Mounting the ridge run.
    4. Installation of rafter legs. First, one element is made, tried on for the Mauerlat and the ridge run. Based on it, the rest of the details are made. The installation step of the rafter legs is 600 or 1200 mm.
    5. Installation of diagonal rafters. They start fastening from the top, the boards are cut into the ridge so that they become its continuation. From below they are fixed in the corners of the Mauerlat.
    6. Fastening sprockets.
    7. Installation of struts and trusses. These elements are not always necessary. If the structure is strong enough without them, then there is no need for installation.

      Additional elements are necessary if the length of the rafters is from 6 meters or more. In other cases - at your discretion.

    8. Installation of waterproofing. The selected material is fastened with a construction stapler.
    9. Sheathing flooring. If it is solid, ordinary plywood will do. Boards are used for the lattice frame.
    10. Roofing material. Fastening is carried out exclusively in the way that is suitable for the specifically selected building material. It is best to use the fasteners that come with the kit.
    11. Installation of a drainage system. This is the final part of the roof installation.

    If you plan to use the attic space as a residential attic, you need to insulate it from the inside. Then it remains only to carry out finishing work - and the roof is ready for operation both outside and inside.

    • If you are not sure of your own knowledge, you can order a hip roof project from professionals. Often it is done simultaneously with the project of the house. In any case, it will cost less than restoring the roof after installation according to the wrong parameters.
    • If you own computer programs, you can create a roof layout in 3d projection.
    • Don't skimp on materials. Before installation, carefully check all boards for strength and treat with an antiseptic. The elements should not have cracks, bends, bumps. For the rafter system, materials of grade 1 and above are used.
    • Before installing the Mauerlat, the surface of the walls can be covered with roofing material.
    • Mauerlat must be fixed very firmly so that it does not move even a fraction of a millimeter during operation. This is the basis of the entire truss system, on which the strength of the roof depends.
    • The connection of the rafter elements to each other is carried out using metal corners, which are firmly attached to the connected elements with bolts.

    Thus, it is quite possible to make a four-pitched hip roof with your own hands if you have at least basic building skills. It will only take careful preparation, the study of theory and the preparation of a detailed project with the calculation of the amount of materials needed.

    An example of the construction of a hip roof can be seen in the following video:

    The classic four-slope even today remains unfamiliar for Russian latitudes and reminds of the overseas way of life. That is why it is built most often in order to give the architecture of a residential building a special effect in terms of style and perception, it is advantageous to distinguish it from the monotonous habitual buildings.

    In addition, a four-pitched roof - built in accordance with all the rules with your own hands - in practice has a large number of advantages, especially for the harsh Russian latitudes. Let's find out more?

    The four-pitched roof has slopes that are made in the form of isosceles triangles and converge at one point with their vertices. If the hipped roof is square in plan when viewed from above, then it is called a hipped roof.

    If it doesn’t come out square, but it turns out in the form of a rectangle, this is a hip roof. She got such an interesting name thanks to the slopes, which look like tongs-hips.

    Dutch roof: classic four slopes

    The Dutch, or hip roof is considered a classic option, which is particularly resistant to wind and snow.

    The surface of a standard hip roof forms two trapezoidal slopes on the long sides and the same number of triangular ones on the short sides. Unlike a hipped roof, this form, according to modern architects, is considered more aesthetic.

    It involves the installation of four sloping rafters - diagonal support bars that go from the two tops of the slopes to the upper corners of the building.

    But the half-hip roof, in turn, is of two types: when the side slopes cut off only part of the butt from above, or already below, that is, the half-hip itself can be a triangle or a trapezoid, and be called Danish or half-hip Dutch.

    Half hip Dutch roof: extra stability

    A half-hipped Dutch roof is both a variant of both a gable design and a four-slope one. It differs from the classic version by the presence of truncated hips - triangular end slopes. According to the rules, the length of the hip of the Dutch roof should be 1.5-3 times less than the length of the side trapezoidal slopes.

    The advantage of such a roof is that it is possible to install a vertical roof window here, and at the same time there is no sharp ledge, like a gable roof, which, in turn, increases the ability of the roof to withstand extreme wind loads.

    Half-hip Danish roof: European traditions

    But the Danish half-hip roof is a kind of purely hip construction. In this case, only the lower part of the end slope is mounted, and a small vertical gable is left under the ridge.

    The advantage of this design is that it allows you to abandon roof windows that are problematic in terms of waterproofing in the roof and provide natural light to the attic by installing full-fledged vertical glazing, which is now especially fashionable.

    Hip roof: perfect proportions

    A hipped roof is usually placed on buildings that have the same length of walls, which form a square perimeter. In such a four-pitched roof, all the slopes are in shape - the same isosceles triangles, the roofer's dream, in a word, and the builder's nightmare.

    The fact is that the construction of a classic hipped roof is even more difficult than that of a hip roof, because here the rafters must all converge at one point:

    Roof truss system with four slopes

    Here is the simplest example of building a standard hip roof for a small country house:

    Stage I. Planning and design

    Before how to make a hipped roof, be sure to think through all its details, to the smallest detail. Even the simplest hipped roof device must be built according to the finished drawing. The fact is that the finished gable roof has almost noticeable flaws and distortions, but if you make a mistake somewhere in the construction of the same hip or hipped roof, then the diagonal rafters simply will not converge in the ridge and it will be extremely difficult to fix it.

    And therefore, if you own special programs, create a 3D model of the future roof directly in them, and if not, then just prepare a detailed drawing and it’s good if a professional helps you with this. All the details of such a roof must be calculated - to the smallest detail!

    By the way, today it is quite fashionable to make not only a hipped roof, but also its individual functional elements:


    Stage II. Procurement of structural elements

    So, if you took a finished drawing of the roof or sketched it yourself and are confident in the future quality, it's time to prepare the necessary elements of the truss system. And for this, first we will figure out how they are called correctly.

    So, the first thing you have to take care of before building a hipped roof is Mauerlat. This is a beam of square or rectangular section, which you will lay on the top of the walls around the entire perimeter of the house. It will become a support for the rafters, which will transfer the load to it, and it is this board that will evenly distribute the weight of the entire roof onto the walls of the house and the foundation. The ideal option is to use a bar with a section of 15 by 10 cm as a Mauerlat.

    Next you will build rafter legs- this is the main element that will create a roof slope. Standard rafters are made from a board 50 by 150 mm, and diagonal ones - 100 by 150 mm.

    You will need and puffs, whose main task is to prevent the displacement of the rafter legs to the sides. You will fix and connect the puffs themselves with the lower ends, and for this stock boards with a parameter of 50 by 150 meters.

    But from above, both diagonal rafter legs and standard rafters will converge and be fixed to each other in skate. To do this, take a bar 150 by 100 mm.

    Further, in the center of two opposite sides there should be a transverse beam - sill, which serves as a support for the racks, and they, in turn, support the ridge run. For this purpose, a beam with a section of 100 by 100 mm or 100 by 150 mm is suitable.

    slopes will become a support for the rafters, which prevents them from shifting. Such you must install them at an angle to the rack, for this, take the same material as on the bench.

    Don't forget also about wind board- this is a horizontal element that connected all the lower ends of the rafters. You will need to nail it to the rafters along the inner perimeter of the roof and in this way emphasize the line of the slope. For this purpose, a board 100 by 50 mm is suitable.

    But for the outside you need another board - filly, from the same material. This board received such a strange name from the time when it was made cut out, in the form of horse muzzles.

    But the most unusual and complex element of a hipped roof is sprengel, which gives rigidity to the entire structure. Its main task is to connect all horizontal and vertical elements. It is also mounted at an angle, and is made of a bar 100 by 100 mm:

    And finally, if we are talking specifically about the hip roof, then the only element that is present exclusively in hip roofs is conjurers. They are shortened rafters that rest on a diagonal rafter leg. You can make them from a board 50 by 150 mm.

    In real life, all these elements look like this:

    Think also about insulation, waterproofing film and additional roofing elements:

    Stage III. Installing an attic floor

    Often, headstocks of hanging rafters or pendants, which work in tension in a hip roof, must be made of steel. To do this, special wooden girders are suspended perpendicular to the clamps to tighten the wooden rafters.

    And already perpendicular to the girders, wooden beams are suspended, after which beamless lightweight fillings are laid between them. Therefore, if you want to reduce the roof load on the hanging rafters or truss, you need to choose suspended ceiling structures.

    For steel trusses, the suspended ceiling must be made fireproof, along steel beams. Between such beams, prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs should be laid, and already on them - light insulation. To increase the fire resistance and durability of such load-bearing structures, they must be made of reinforced concrete. Moreover, it is better to make the most reinforced concrete supporting structures from large-sized prefabricated panels so as not to take risks.

    Stage IV. Installation of the ridge run

    In calculating the ridge run, start from the following nuances:

    1. If the building has capital longitudinal walls, or at least two rows of internal pillars, then two runs are made. At the same time, many truss structures along the length can be composite, and crossbars are used to increase rigidity.
    2. If the building does not have internal supports, then sloping rafters cannot be made here. And therefore, special construction trusses are used, to which the attic floor is simply suspended. In this case, the rods, which are located along the upper contour of the trusses, form the upper belt of the construction truss, and along the lower contour - already the lower belt. The truss lattice itself now forms vertical rods and braces - inclined rods that are located between the upper and lower chords. Moreover, such farms are not necessarily made only of wood, on the contrary, steel reinforced concrete is quite popular today. In the process of construction itself, farms are installed at a distance of 4-6 meters from each other. The simplest version of such farms is trussed, which consist of rafter legs, vertical suspension, headstock and puffs.
    3. If the width of the building is large enough, construction trusses or trussed supports are used during installation. But then the attic floor cannot be covered with beams that will rest on the walls alone. Such a structure must be hung on steel clamps to the lower chord of the truss, or to a puff, in order to form, thus, suspended ceilings.

    This photo illustration clearly shows how exactly the rafters need to be attached to the ridge and ridges:

    Stage V. Installation of standard and diagonal rafters

    So, the diagonal rafter legs rest directly on the ridge, depending on the following conditions:

    1. If there is only one ridge run in the middle of the roof, then the diagonal leg must be stuffed on the run console. They are specially released for this purpose by 15 centimeters for a fake frame, and then they cut off the excess.
    2. If there are two runs, then they need to install a trussed structure from a horizontal beam and a rack, and then fix the rafters themselves.
    3. If the beam is strong at the same time, from a bar, and not from boards, then it makes sense to make a surf - a short board with a thickness of at least 5 centimeters. And the hip roof rafters are already supported on it.

    In addition, for reliability, the rafters are fixed with a metal wire twisted several times.

    On the ribs, the installation of ridge elements must be carried out in the same sequence as on a conventional roof ridge. Those. install the rib element with a closed end, put the ridge elements in the lock and fix them mechanically. But at the intersection of the ribs and the ridge of the hip roof, it is customary to install Y-shaped ridge elements, although you can also use the initial and final ridge elements instead.

    But only cut them along the contour when they are fixed on the edge, and mechanically fix the joints. Be sure to treat with a primer and mineral dressing from a standard repair kit. Also, when installing ridge elements, finally leave a gap on the ribs or ridges of a four-pitched roof to remove air from the under-roof space.

    All the same principles must be observed when building a hipped roof of complex shape:

    You will succeed! Please ask your questions in the comments.

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