Do-it-yourself siding installation. The finishing strip for siding is an important detail.

In order for the first siding panel to be well fixed, a starting bar is specially mounted. It is with this element that the facade cladding begins. In this article we will tell you how to install a starter bar for siding with different types of plinth and about some features of using a starter bar.

Specifications

The starting bar cannot be seen as it is covered by the first panel. For this reason, its main technical parameters are the length. As a rule, this figure will depend on the size of the length of the siding panel. The starting bar should be selected immediately when buying sidingso that there are no discrepancies.

As for the dignity of the starting bar, several aspects can be distinguished here:

• The starting bar is not deformed, does not give in to corrosion and cracking.
• At negative impact atmospheric precipitation does not lose its technological properties in terms of strength and integrity.
• No special tools are required to install the starter bar.
• The plank is not flammable.
• When exposed to sunlight or when the temperature drops, the starting bar does not lose its strength.

Mounting Features

As mentioned above, this bar is mounted directly in front of the siding sheathing. Based on the fact that the base can be different kind, the installation of the bar is carried out in different ways. The base is of three types:

1. Smooth.
2. sinking.
3. Speaker.

When installing the starting bar on a sinking and even plinth, there is one installation principle. The protruding plinth requires a different approach. In some cases, the installed crate on the wall can make a protruding plinth sink down.

Note! The start bar is set not only to start the installation of siding. It is also used in sheathing attics, finishing gables. Also, the bar can be mounted from the second or third floor.

Mounting on a recessed and level plinth

The level of the wall between the base and the wall is often called "zero". It is this boundary that must be found before starting work. To do this, you can use the water level, which checks every corner of the house. They need to determine the low point of installation start profile. For example, let's take a starting profile, the width of which is 6.4 cm. From the bottom point found on the wall, measure this width and hammer a nail into the wall. Around the perimeter of the house at each corner, the nail is hammered at the same level height.

Note! Sometimes sheathing can be done with a slight overlap on the base. To do this, retreat not 6.4 cm, but 5 cm. The overlap can be of any width, but it should not overlap the middle of the bar itself.

Connect the hammered nails with one cord. This cord indicates the upper limit of the starting bar. So that the cord does not interfere with the installation of the plank, you can rub it with chalk and beat off the line around the entire perimeter of the house.

Next, check for the presence of crates along the entire length of the house. It should be enough to install the starting bar. In some cases, it may be necessary to build up the crate, especially if the plinth is far from horizontal and some corners are pulled up strongly.

After these works, you can proceed directly to the installation of the bar itself.

Note! Any unevenness of the starting bar can lead to siding defects in subsequent rows.

To install from the corner of the house, a distance is measured that will be the same with the width corner profile(75 mm) or j-profile (46 mm). At the same time, one should not forget to take into account the presence temperature gap up to 5 mm.

Note! The starter strip for the siding sheathing can be made in any color, as it will be completely covered by the sheathing.

Now retreat from the corner to the width of the profile plus the temperature gap. Put the starting bar in this place and fix it. All this must be done according to the markup carried out. The top edge of the plank must completely match the mark along the entire perimeter of the walls. The plank can be fixed with nails or screws. They are inserted into a special perforated hole. After installation, the bar should be moved from side to side, returning to its original place. Nothing should interfere with these movements. After installing the first bar, you also retreat up to 10 mm for the temperature gap and install the next starting bar.

According to this principle, installation is carried out around the entire perimeter of the facade. In the process of work, from time to time you can check the bar for horizontality using a level.

Mounting on a raised plinth

Before installing the starting bar on the protruding plinth, it is necessary to install the ebb. It will protect the base from moisture. To do this, it will be enough to use an ebb 10 cm wide. Before installing it, the surface of the base, and it can be made of brick, stone or concrete, must be leveled. If the base is wooden, then it is treated with an antiseptic. The search for the bottom point of the wall or occurs in the same way as with a flat or sinking base. A line is also beaten off along the entire perimeter of the walls.

The tide is mounted from the corner. A meter-long piece of ebb is cut off. It is necessary to make a cut in it so that it forms desired angle outside or outside. Each subsequent ebb is installed with an overlap of 2.5 cm.

When the ebb is fixed around the entire perimeter of the facade, you can proceed with the installation of the starting bar. To do this, measure 4 cm from the tide bar and again beat off the line with chalk. Next, the installation of the starting bar is carried out according to the same principle as with a flat or sinking base.

Video

Setting up the start bar is very simple:

Sheathing a house with siding is possible even for a beginner. It is enough to know the procedure and some nuances. If you decide to choose as a facing material vinyl siding, do-it-yourself installation is more than simple.

Based on the material below, you will learn how to fix the siding to the wall correctly.
For greater clarity, each stage is accompanied by a photo, and at the end of the video.
Please note that these instructions are for installing vinyl siding, which is different from metal siding.

• knife. Who does not know how to cut vinyl siding: vinyl is a soft material, it is easily cut sharp knife. To do this, you need to designate a groove on the panel. Bend and unbend the strip several times. As a result, it will break according to the intended cut;

• electric jigsaw. Used instead of a knife. It gives a more beautiful cut, and also allows you to speed up the process of preparing panels to size.

• drill or hammer drill. With their help, it is convenient to increase the holes for fastening hardware or punch new ones;

• screwdriver For twisting hardware;
• building level. Laser is very convenient to use;
• roulette.

Good to know. If you are going to use a grinder to cut siding panels, this is acceptable. However, keep in mind that at high speeds, the sheet cut will begin to heat up and melt. This will cause it to deform. Therefore, use the grinder at low power.

1. When starting to clad a house with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that a gap of 5-7 mm must be observed between the starting strips, as well as between rows and strips. And if the installation is carried out at temperatures above -10 ° C (which, in general, is unacceptable from the point of view of common sense, but it is quite customary for domestic practice), then the gaps should be at least 10 mm.


2. There must also be a gap between the working surface of the material and the fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.


3. Vinyl siding should rest at least a couple of hours at outdoor temperature before installation work.


4. Under no circumstances should siding be screwed through with a self-tapping screw. This approach to installation can lead to cracking of the sheet of material. But, if such a need arose, to fix the sheet not where the nail holes were punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the sheet or additional element.

Despite the fact that fastening siding with self-tapping screws is the most common in domestic practice, you can still use fasteners such as nails and staples.

Installation of vinyl siding - instructions

In general, the installation of vinyl siding can be divided into several stages:

1. fixing the starting bar;
2. installation of vertical bars (corners and H-connector);
3. installation of siding panels;
4. window framing and doorways siding;
5. installation of vinyl siding around the arch;
6. arrangement of protruding elements;
7. fastening of finishing strips;
8. soffit installation;
9. pediment lining.

Good to know: fastening siding to a metal crate or to a wooden one, or even to the base of the wall surface, always starts from the bottom. This allows each subsequent panel to be placed above the previous one. Thus, it is achieved additional protection surface or insulation from moisture.

1. Installation of the starting bar (starting strip)

Installation of siding panels always takes place using the starting bar. It is attached around the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).

The initial bar is closed by a number of panels, so there are no special requirements for it. It can be connected from scraps or a bar of a different color can be used.
The starting bar sets the tone for the whole work. It is better to spend more time leveling it than trying to correct even a minimal slope during the installation work.
Before you begin to fasten it, you need to designate the place of the future fastening.
To do this, drive in a nail (screw in a screw) at the lowest level of the wall.
The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starting bar.

Next, stretch the thread between the nails. Check that the thread tension is correct with building level. Next, using chalk, draw a line along the thread between the nails. It will mark the line of attachment starting strip.
The more often you use the level, the more correctly and evenly the installation of the siding will be performed.
However, at least every third row of ordinary strips of siding should be checked for the possibility of deviation from the level.
After that fix the bar.

How to attach vinyl siding to a wall

When installing vinyl elements, it is important to properly fasten. Namely, it is important to adhere to the following conditions:
- the distance between two adjacent self-tapping screws should be about 250-300 mm.
- twist the hardware or hammer in the nail must be strictly perpendicular to the plane.
- fasten the screws only in the middle of the nail hole, which has an oval appearance, it is this trick that allows the panel to slide when expanding. The right way shown in the figure.
- the self-tapping screw is not fully tightened. A gap of 1 mm must be observed between the surface of the material and the head of the self-tapping screw. The desired gap is achieved in two ways.
First, you can attach a coin.
Secondly, you can twist it all the way, and then loosen it one turn.
There should always be a gap of 5-7 mm between two starting bars located in the neighborhood. The gap compensates for the linear expansion of the material.
Installation of the strip at the corners is not carried out completely. Since a special corner bar is used to arrange the corner.
Using staples as fasteners, you must also maintain a gap of 1 mm.

Good to know. Some builders recommend immediately setting the starting bar on window and door blocks. However, this should not be done, because the need for it does not always arise. The dimensions of the window are not so ideal that ordinary siding strips during installation turn out to be just at the level of the strip.

2. Fastening of vertical strips - corners and H-connector

2.1 Fastening the planks

The corners are set before the installation of the main strips. It is in them that ordinary panels are wound up. Mounting a vinyl corner also has its own characteristics:
First, the angle is set to 5-7 mm without touching the ground. When heated, the angle will expand vertically and the gap left will not allow it to deform.
Secondly, it is important to properly fix the screws. As you can see in the figure, the corner is attached starting from the top nail hole. Moreover, the screw is twisted into its upper part. On this self-tapping screw (nail) the whole corner seems to be hanging in the air.
Thus, the material can only expand downwards and to the sides.
The rest and the last self-tapping screw are twisted in the same way as the starting strip - clearly in the middle of the nail hole.
Thirdly, the lower edges of the corner are cut to the width of the starting bar. This avoids deformation of the material when heated.
It will look as shown in the picture.
Separate cases in the technology of installing vinyl siding

The length of the corner bar is up to 4 meters. But you may need to lengthen the corner.
Mount the lower corner bar, then cut off the fasteners on the sides from the top and “put” on the bottom, leaving a gap of 5 mm for compression under the influence of temperature.
The overlap is 20-25 mm.
The figure shows how to lengthen the bar

Good to know:

• The joints at the corners and the H-connector must be at the same level. It will do appearance home more harmonious.
• The upper bar of the corner is mounted on the lower one, and not vice versa. This will protect the corner from water leakage.

Since the corners of vinyl siding are flexible, they can be used to trim blunt and sharp corners of a building.
For an obtuse angle, the profile must be pressed down, for an acute one, narrowed.
For the inner corner, the procedure will be similar.

Given the cost of the corners, you can save on them if you mount two J-bars in their place. The installation process is shown in the figure.

2.4. H-profile installation

This type of work also does not take much time and effort. It is important to correctly calculate the location of the bar. Fastening is carried out similarly to fastening corners.

• the lower bar is mounted first, and then the upper one;
• if necessary, lengthening is cut into pieces of 5-7 mm with perforation (to compensate for expansion);
• overlap profiles.

Keep in mind, the starter strips must be adjacent to the H-connector, and not vice versa.

Good to know. You can do without installing an H-shaped profile in this case, the siding strips will overlap.

The photo shows how the wall should look before starting the installation of ordinary siding panels.

3. Installation of ordinary siding panels

We’ll make a reservation right away that ordinary panels can be fixed in a circle, or you can trim one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter.

Installation takes place in several steps:
3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the angled or H-shaped profile and fixed with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.
At the same time, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical slats.

Good to know.
To make it easier to insert the strip, you need to slightly bend it outward.

As already mentioned, the siding panel starts in the outer or inner corners. In case you are using a budget option installation, arrange inner panel can be done in the manner shown in the figure.


Don't forget to leave room for expansion.
3.2. siding panel you need to lower to the initial bar and snap. To do this, you need the strip lock to catch on the starting bar. Never "pull out" the panel. Since in this case the radius of the panel will stretch and the locks will be deformed. How to install the siding panel correctly - see the picture.

Good to know.
If, after the lock of the next strip snaps onto the lock of the previous one, the panel can be moved horizontally, then its installation was carried out according to the rules.

3.3. After the panel is installed, it can be fixed with hardware.
3.4. All remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.
If you need to connect the panels together, and you did not provide an H-profile or you do not like how it looks, you can do it as follows.

• First, remove the interlock from the panel.
• Secondly, lay two sheets on top of each other.
• Thirdly, put the cut off part of the sheet under the lock.

The photo shows what it looks like in practice.
Note:

• Some manufacturers produce panels without lock fastening at the end of the siding sheet.
• Panels at the joints are not sealed.
• The mounting line can be flat, or it can be offset.

4. Installation of a window siding strip near window and door openings

There are two possible ways of arranging openings relative to the wall surface.

• in one plane. In this case, the openings are simply sheathed around the perimeter with J-profiles and the siding panel is already inserted into them.


• with slope arrangement. With this arrangement, the panels are installed in the manner indicated in the figure.

In practice, it looks like it is shown in the photo.
Getting the panel into such a design is also not difficult. Because the vinyl is quite flexible, the panel is simply bent slightly and installed into the J-profile. The main thing here is to properly cut the strip of siding.
Docking ears are holes in the strip of material designed for fastening hardware. They are made with a punch.

5. Installation of vinyl siding around the arch

If the openings in your house end in an arch, this is not a problem for installing plastic siding.
Finishing an arch with vinyl siding differs from finishing a regular opening only in the way the J-bar is installed.
Flexible J-bar greatly simplifies finishing arched openings. To do this, notches are made on the profile and the smaller the radius, the more often notches should be made. Next, the profile is attached to the top of the window or door opening. A siding panel is inserted into it.
The process is clearly shown in the photo.

Installation of siding around protruding objects occurs by cutting the strip and fastening it with an overlap.

7. Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels

It is done like this - first the finishing bar is fixed.
Then the distance from the last ordinary strip is measured from it. This is the value to which last panel siding.
The strip is bent horizontally in an arc and wound into the lock and the finish bar.

8. Installation of siding soffit

8.1. With wind bar

If the front board has small size it can be closed with a wind bar. To do this, a finishing bar is mounted along the upper edge of the frontal board, and the wind bar is attached so that its upper part is fixed by the finishing profile.
Then a J-profile is attached to the wall and a soffit is installed between it and the wind bar.


In this case, the soffit can be installed in one of the two ways shown in the diagram.

In this way, installation is carried out if the frontal board is wider than the wind bar.
Wherein outer corner mounted on the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile on both sides of it at the required distance. Soffit is cut out right size and starts between one of the parts of the corner and the J-bar.
Similarly, the finishing on the second side.

It is not recommended to mount a dark-colored soffit in this way, since it is highly prone to fading on the frontal bar.

9. Mounting the gable with siding

Installing a gable is no different from installing ordinary siding strips. Produced as follows:
9.1. installation of the starting line. Occurs in full accordance with the rules described above.

Good to know:
You can use all the remnants of the J-profile that you have accumulated during your work to finish the pediment. It is not visible under the roofing material anyway.

This work is done as shown in the photo.
9.4. Attaching a J-profile to the top of the gable. To do this, the J-strips must be laid on top of each other and cut diagonally on the front. Let's not forget the gap.
9.5. Plank preparation. In order to cut off the siding strip correctly, you need to measure the angle of inclination of the roof slope.
This can be done using a simple technique: put a piece of a strip of material to the surface of the pediment, and the whole panel is level with the J-profile.

Then you need to draw a sharpened pencil over the overlap of the sheets. The result will be an accurate angle of inclination. Next, you should remove a short piece and cut off the siding along the line.
The process is more clearly shown in the drawing above.

9.7. Preparing the last strip. Cut the corner of the last siding panel and bring it into the J-profile.
9.8. Fastening the last strip. This is an exceptional case in the installation of vinyl siding, in which the hardware or nail hits the panel through and through.
Conclusion
In this article, we tried to reveal all the features of installing vinyl siding. We hope now you know how to mount facade siding with your own hands, as well as components for it.

Video instruction, Installation of vinyl siding

Siding is an excellent material for cladding a house. At its affordable cost, it has many positive operational and technical characteristics.

You are invited detailed instructions on self-assembly siding. The guide is universal. Following its provisions, you can finish with any siding that provides installation on the crate: fiber cement, wood, metal, vinyl, etc.

Siding is best attached to a pre-mounted crate. We work in the following order.

The first stage - choose the material

The frame can be assembled from wooden beam or metal profile. Metal products are stronger and more durable. In addition, the metal crate is much easier to attach to an uneven base.

Installation of profiles is carried out with a half-meter step. Hangers are used for wall mounting. This technique will allow leveling surface differences and fixing the frame elements in level.

Wooden crate is cheaper. When choosing this option, pay attention to the condition of the wood. It is prohibited to:

• the material was exfoliated;
• was deformed;
• had bluish spots and traces of rot, etc.

Elements wooden crate must be impregnated with flame retardant and antiseptic. If the house is built from wooden elements, the walls should also be treated with the listed preparations.

The second stage - preparing the base

The crate is easiest to attach to a flat base. First of all, we remove any details that may interfere. These are all kinds of tiles, bars, platbands, gutters, etc.

The third stage - set the guides

Siding is best mounted horizontally. In this case, we fix the bars or profiles of the crate vertically.

For attaching rails to wooden walls use nails or screws. If the house is built of concrete blocks or bricks, we fix it with dowels, having previously drilled holes for them in the wall of the house.

We level each rail.

Important! If you plan to perform external wall insulation, it is best to fix the siding crate after all insulation work has been completed. In this case, there will be two crates: for insulating materials and for cladding. In this case, the rails of the two frames should be placed parallel to each other.

You can, of course, try to lay insulating layers after attaching the siding sheathing, but this is not very convenient.

We mount J-profiles

The starting rails must be perfectly fixed, as the quality of the entire lining depends on the correctness of their installation.

First step. We take the level and find the lowest point on the crate. We step back from it up 50 mm and put a mark. To do this, we screw a self-tapping screw into the rail a little.

Second step. We consistently move around the building and continue to put marks with self-tapping screws to fix the starting profiles. We also screw self-tapping screws in the corners of the house.

Third step. We stretch the rope between the corner marks.

Fourth step. We mark on the rails the boundaries of the installation of corner profiles. We take the profile itself, apply it to the corner frame structure and put marks along the edges with a pencil.

Important! We leave a 1-centimeter gap between the profiles to compensate for temperature deformations.

We leave a gap between the starting guides and the nail strips.

In order to avoid a 6 mm setback, you can cut off parts of the nail strips so that they do not rest against the J-profile during temperature changes.

Important! Starting profiles must be mounted strictly horizontally! Correct deviations for as long as necessary.

If you install guides with deviations from the level, the siding will also warp. It will be extremely difficult to fix this in the future.

We mount external corner profiles

First step. We mark spotlights. We need to see where the edges of these elements will be in the future.

Second step. Attach the guide to the corner of the frame. We do this with a 3 mm gap to the soffit or roof. We fix the profile with self-tapping screws.

The lower border of the element is placed 0.6 cm below the edge of the starting profile.

Third step. We check the verticality of the installation. In the absence of deviations, we fix the bottom, and after that - the rest of the places. Experts do not advise placing fasteners in corner elements too often.

If the house is higher than 300 cm, the profiles will need to be superimposed one on top of the other. To do this, cut the top profile. As a result, a 9 mm gap should remain between the planks of the joined elements. When laying the elements, we maintain an overlap of 2.5 cm.

Important! We join the profiles at the same level on each side of the house.

If the plinth has a protruding structure, we shorten the profile so that a 6 mm gap remains between it and the plinth.

Helpful advice! Instead of a corner profile, it is allowed to install 2 J-elements (starting). This way you can save money. But this solution also has its drawback - the corner will not be as tight as when using a special corner profile. Having decided to use this method, pre-glue the wall at a similar angle with a strip of rolled waterproofing material.

We mount internal corner profiles

The order of installation of these elements does not have significant differences from the technology for arranging external corners - we leave an indent of 3 mm between the profile and the soffit, while lowering the lower end of the profile below the J-bar by 0.6 cm.

If there is a protruding plinth or other element protruding from the bottom general level, then we also leave a 6 mm indent between it and the profile - it is impossible for the profile of the inner corner to rest against it.

There are 3 arrangement methods internal corners, see picture.

If the wall height is more than 300 cm, we perform profile splicing. The technology is the same as for the arrangement of external corners.

We leave a 9 mm indent between the planks, carefully cutting off excess material. The overlap of the upper element on the lower one is 2.5 cm. We install the fasteners with a 4-centimeter step, placing them strictly in the center of the holes intended for this. The exception is the most top point. Here the fasteners must be installed at the top of the hole.

We mount the frames of the openings

For most inexperienced craftsmen, difficulties arise precisely at the stage of framing window and door openings. The order of work will vary depending on how the openings are arranged in relation to the plane of the wall.

Openings in the same plane with the facade

In this case, we do the following.

First step. We perform waterproofing of openings.

Second step. We fasten platbands or J-profiles to the openings. We equip each opening using 4 platbands: a pair of vertical and a pair of horizontal.

Third step. We connect profiles.

To make the connection of platbands as accurate as possible, we do this:

The platband at the bottom is connected in exactly the same way, only the bridges will need to be cut and bent on the side elements for their further lining on the profile below.

Apertures recessed into the facade

When installing near-window profiles, we work in compliance with the same recommendations as when installing platbands, i.e. we create cuts on the profile corresponding to the depth of the opening, and then bend the bridges and insert them into the finishing elements.

Do not be too lazy to understand the principles of bending such bridges. We make them so that they cover the junction of the cladding elements. As a result, moisture will not be able to penetrate inside.

Installing the first panel

We start facing with the least noticeable wall of the building. So we can practice and work out all sorts of inaccuracies.

First step. We insert the first cladding panel into the corner profile and into the locking joint of the starting strip.

Important! Between the first cladding element and bottom of the corner profile lock, we leave a 6 mm temperature gap.

Second step. We attach the panel to the crate.

It is important to observe the dimensions of technological indents. If the lining is carried out in warm weather, we maintain a 6 mm indent, if in cold weather, we increase the gap to 9 mm. When installing trim panels, the indents can be reduced.

We build up panels

We build up the cladding elements with an overlap or with the help of an H-profile.

When fastening panels with an overlap, you must first shorten the locks facing panels and mounting frames, so that as a result the overlap is 2.5 cm long.

The installation of the H-profile is carried out similarly to the corner elements - at the top we retreat 0.3 cm from the soffit, from the bottom we lower it by 0.6 cm in relation to the starting profile.

Important! We leave a 6 mm indent between the H-profile and any obstacles on the facade of the house.

Installing the rest of the siding

We continue to clad the house with siding. The technology of work is similar to the order of fastening the first panel.

Important! Every 2-3 rows, we check the horizontalness of the cladding using a level.

Having reached the opening, we remove the unnecessary piece of the panel falling on the opening.

We provide reliable fastening of panels with the help of "hooks". For this we need a punch.

We mount an additional finishing profile at the bottom of the opening. It will allow you to level the lining on the plane.

Mounting under the roof

Under roof structure fasten the J-profile.

We work in the following order.

First step. We measure the distance between the lower part of the lock of the finishing element and the lock of the penultimate facing panel.

Second step. Subtract from the measurement obtained 1-2 mm indent.

Third step. We mark the whole panel, cut off its upper part with a locking connection.

Fourth step. We create "hooks" at the top of the element with a 20 cm step. To do this, we make cuts and bend them to the front side.

Fifth step. We insert the trimmed element into the penultimate siding panel. With a slight upward movement, we snap the inserted element into lock connection finish profile.

We mount the pediment

We sheathe the pediment around the perimeter. All fasteners, except for the top, are installed in the center of the holes. Upper fastener install holes at the top. Sheathing can be done both with profiles for arranging internal corners, and with a starting profile.

Mounting procedure is the same as mounting wall panels. We cut the edges of the elements and connect them with the locks of the receiving profiles. Keep in mind the 6mm setback when mounting in warm weather and 9mm when working in winter.

We fasten the last element of the pediment sheathing directly through the panel material - this can only be done here.

Cladding completed.

In order for the paneling of the house to be as successful as possible, you need to know certain subtleties of performing such work. There is a list general recommendations for any siding, as well as separate tips for panels made from a specific material.

For different materials

Now you can personally perform the installation of siding at the highest level.

Name (model)	Advantages	Length x width x thickness, mm	Quantity in a package, pcs
Vinyl Siding Kanada Plus	1. Coloring in dark tones performed using the "Cool Color" method (heat absorption), which involves the use of masterbatches. 2. Excellent appearance remains unchanged even when exposed to high and low temperatures, the range of which ranges from -50°C to +60°C. 3. Retains impact resistance even if the temperature environment drops to -20 60 ° С. 4. Not subject to microbiological corrosion (fungi, mold).	3660 x 230 x 1.1	20
Acrylic Siding "Kanada Plus"	Among other useful qualities acrylic siding"Canada Plus" is worth highlighting: Increased resistance to direct ultraviolet rays; Excellent tolerance to acidic and alkaline solutions, as well as to various fats; Good washing tolerance with chemical detergents; High degree of deformation resistance (perfectly tolerates temperatures up to 75 ° -80 ° C).	3660 x 230 x 1.1	20
Alta Siding - Vinyl Siding	"Alta-siding" is: one of the safest finishing materials on the Russian market; frost resistance and the ability to maintain strength even at very low temperatures(from -20 to -60°C); resistance to significant temperature changes and impact external environment; durability: the service life of Alta-siding is up to 30 years; resistance to aggressive substances (to clean the siding, you can use detergents); non-susceptibility to infection by moldy fungi.	3660 x 230 x 1.1	20
Facade metal siding INSI	Siding "INSI" is made of galvanized steel coated with a layer of polymer composition, which means it inherits all the advantages of this material: resistance to temperature extremes (-50°С - +80°С) and mechanical damage; long term services with preservation of original properties (about 50 years); environmental friendliness; incombustibility; possibility of mounting both horizontally and vertically; protection of the building from overheating (in the ventilated facade system); and when choosing one of two new colors (alder or rosewood) - a complete imitation of the appearance.	Length up to 6000, width up to 200, thickness 0.5	-

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself siding installation

May 5, 2018
Specialization: philological education. Experience as a builder - 20 years. Of these, for the last 15 years he led a brigade as a foreman. I know everything about construction - from design and the zero cycle to interior design. Hobbies: Vocal, psychology, quail breeding.

Greetings, my dear readers.

Siding are panels used for the exterior cladding of buildings. It can be made from different materials- steel, aluminum, vinyl, wood. But, no matter which one you choose, you will also need siding components (they are additional elements, accessories, fittings). Let's figure out what they are for and what they can be.

Why are accessories needed?

In order for the work to go quickly, and its result to look complete, you need to use additional elements to cover the house with siding. Accessories help in the design:

• external and internal corners of the facade of the building;
• openings of doors and windows;
• adjunctions to the balcony, loggia, roof;
• cornices, etc.

Installation of the panels themselves without accessories is also almost impossible. After all, there are not only decorative additional elements, but also constructive ones. Without them, it is impossible to fix the finish so that all fasteners are disguised.

In addition, the fittings make it possible to aesthetically design the joints. different types planks and transitions between them.

Types of additional elements for siding

Based on the configuration of the building and the presence of certain facade elements, for its facing you need different fittings. However, all accessories for mounting siding are divided into two types:

1. Decorative profiles. They give the finished look. various elements facade.
2. Structural elements carrying the payload. They serve as guides for the panels, connect them together, help to fix them on the walls. There are two types of structural profiles - left open and hidden by cladding.

All additional elements for facade coating

Here are all types of additional elements for vinyl, wood and metal siding:

A photo	Type of accessory
	Start profile (start bar) It is used as a guide and fixing strip for the first (lowest) row of siding. After its installation remains hidden from view. 1. The initial bar is placed with the upper edge along the marking line and screwed along it with self-tapping screws. The standard length of the starting profile is 366 cm.
	Finishing profile (finishing bar) Mounted before installation top row siding under the cornice, balcony, loggia. Serves to fix the cut edges of the panels. The standard length of the finish bar is 366 cm.
	Connection profile Serves to pair panels with each other and mask the joints. The connecting bar is available in a length of 305 cm.
	F profile Serves for installation of spotlights and wind boards.
	H-bar It is used to pair siding panels if it is not possible to mount them with an overlap.
	J profile(sometimes referred to as g-bar) It is used for framing vertical cut sections and fixing spotlights. Varieties of the additional element: j-bevel- serves for an edging of eaves; j trim- used to frame door openings and windows, mounted around their perimeter; flexible j rail- needed for edging arched elements.Standard plank length - 366 cm.
	Window rail Used for framing windows and doors. Mounted around their perimeter. If the width of window and door openings is more than 14 cm, a special wide bar is used.
	Soffits These are panels for facing cornices. Roof gables are often sheathed with soffits. 3 types of spotlights are produced: not perforated; partially perforated to provide ventilation of the under-roof space; with a fully perforated surface. The standard dimensions of the accessory are 300 cm long and 23 cm wide. The spotlights are fixed by a j-bar.
	Hinged rail Mounted above the upper windows. Also applicable for basement siding and placed above it. The plank protects the respective parts of the façade from rain and melt water. The standard element length is 366 cm.
	low tide These elements remove rain moisture from window openings.
	platband Serves for an external frame of windows and doors. Standard strap length - 366 cm.
	wind board Used to close the end parts of the roof.
	outdoor corner It is applied on external joints between two walls. The standard element length is 305 cm.
	Inner corner Serves for fixing siding on the inner corners of the walls. Standard profile length - 305 cm.
	Additional panel Serves for facing niches of doors and windows, the width of which is more than 0.23 m.
	Corner radius profile This is a rounded outer corner. It is mounted at the junction of adjacent walls. Can be used alone or in conjunction with wide architraves, creating a composite corner element with it.

So that when installing additional elements there are no problems, they must be selected correctly:

1. In any case, the material must be of high quality.

The best option is to use additional elements made by the same company as the siding itself. Then you are guaranteed not to have any problems when installing the cladding.

1. All profiles and strips, especially guides, must be combined with each other in size and other indicators. They should fit together without gaps.

1. Based on the color design of the facade, the fittings can have the same tone as the coating itself or contrast with it.
2. The best option is to choose light-colored siding and accessories for it. Such a coating will be less heated by sunlight. This will minimize the risk that the material will fade or deform.

1. It is best to mount the finish not with a glossy texture, but with a matte one. Such material also heats up less in the sun. It is best if the siding is covered with lamination. This is especially important for metal siding.

In the absence of H-shaped strips, the panels can be joined in this way:

1. Cut the lock element from the siding.
2. Lay two panels on top of each other.
3. Insert the cut edge of the sheet under the locking part.

Conclusion

Additional elements are necessary both for the installation of siding, and for its decorative design. There are many types of such accessories. It should be chosen based on the configuration of the building.

If you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments. I say goodbye and good luck in your endeavours.

May 5, 2018

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

The initial stage of siding installation is the installation of accessories. First, it is more convenient to install vertical accessories (outer and inner corners, connecting H-profiles), as well as window and door framing, then horizontal accessories (starting strips), horizontal siding, filing of roof overhangs and.

Before installing siding, make sure all wall planes are level and straight. basis smooth walls can serve as metal or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. If it is necessary to additionally insulate the walls of the house, a film is laid under the crate, which protects the insulation from moisture.

Installation of starting bars

Before installing the starter strip, you need to find the bottom point of the wall. With the help of a level, as well as chalk or pencil, you need to draw perfectly horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the building starting from any corner. After drawing the line, you must return to the same point from which you started.

Now you need to find the lowest point of the facade relative to the horizon.

To do this, measure the distances from the line you drew at the corners of the building to the bottom of the wall.

The point where the distance is the largest will be the starting point for mounting the starting strip.

Install the beacon 4.5 cm above the lowest point of the wall and draw another line in the same way around the entire facade of the building. Or you can measure the distance from the beacon to the line drawn at the bottom of the wall and mark the same distance along the perimeter of the building.

At the corners of the house, it is necessary to measure a distance equal to the width of the outer corner shelf, taking into account the gap for thermal contraction-expansion.

Align upper edge starting bar with a drawn line and attach to the crate with self-tapping screws.

When installing the rest of the starting strips, do not forget to indent the temperature gaps.

Installation of internal and external corners

Cut the outer corner to the required length minus 6 mm (compression-expansion gap).

Lower the lower edge of the outer corner by 4 mm (compression-expansion gap).

Install self-tapping screws into the top of the topmost perforation on both sides of the outside corner.

Install the remaining self-tapping screws in the center of the perforations at a distance of no more than 40 cm.

If it is necessary to vertically join the outer corners, it is most convenient to make an "overlap" joint.

In order for the connection to protect the facade of the house from wind and snow loads, the upper profile is installed on top of the lower one.

On the upper accessory, it is necessary to cut off the bar with perforations and leave only the outer decorative part.

Install the bottom outside corner first, then the top.

Note! The height of the cut off part of the corner must not be less than the required compression-expansion gap, and the overlap of the accessories must be equal to the temperature gap plus 2 centimeters.

It is most convenient to mark the joint on the ground or on a table. To do this, lay the two outer corners on top of each other with the required overlap (20 mm). The intersection is marked and both mounting strips of the upper accessory must be cut off according to the received marks.

The installation technology of the inner corner is similar to the installation of the outer one.

A more budgetary option for mounting an outer corner or an inner corner is to use two J-profiles instead of the corresponding accessory. The corner of the house in this case will be "typesetting".

Installation of H-profiles connecting

Consider in advance the location of the H-profiles on the facade of the house. In these places it will be necessary to install additional profiles. As a rule, the connecting H-profile is installed in the middle of the wall and / or they distinguish window and door openings.

It is advisable to use H-profiles on long blank walls. They also need to be installed at the junction of the house with any extension, which has seasonal fluctuations different from the house.

Since the H-profile belongs to vertical accessories, during its installation it is necessary to follow the same rules as when installing, for example, external and internal corners (the first fastener is installed in the upper part of the upper mounting hole, the rest are strictly in the middle).

Necessary gaps for compression-expansion in this case:

• the upper part of the H-profile must be lower than the roof overhang by approx. 2 mm.
• Bottom part H-profile - about 4 mm below the starting bar and VINYL-ON siding panels.

Remember to cut off the perforated strip and leave only the decorative part of the accessory.

If there is design features(for example, a protruding base) that interfere with the thermal expansion of the H-profile, it is necessary to leave a gap of 4-6 mm.

The vertical joining of H-profiles is carried out in exactly the same way as the joining of external and internal corners, i.e. necessary:

• Make an overlap of the upper profile on the lower one.
• Cut off the perforated strip.
• First install the lower profile, and then the upper one.

Note! The height of the cut off part of the profile must not be less than the required compression-expansion gap, and the overlap of the accessories must be equal to the temperature gap plus 2 centimeters.

Installation of window and door frames

Window and door openings in relation to the wall can be recessed deep or located on the same level with the wall.

The VINYL-ON product line, which you can buy at Stroymet’s roofing and siding sales offices, includes special accessories for finishing various types openings.

J-profiles, near-window profiles or special VINYL-ON j-platbands can be used to finish windows and doors.

There are two main ways to frame the decorative part of the openings - this is the so-called "overlap" and "corner" method.

Note! As with the “overlap” installation method, as well as with “corner” installation, the vertical profiles at the joints are wound under the upper horizontal, and the lower horizontal under the vertical ones.

The gap for compression-expansion in this case is in the upper part of the profiles framing the openings on the sides - 1-3 mm. At the bottom - 3-5 mm. The lower horizontal profile is shortened by 2-3 mm on each side to allow thermal contraction-expansion.

When installing profiles "at an angle" there is no need to cut off both the vertical and horizontal profile at an angle. In the upper mounting nodes, it is enough to cut the horizontal profile at an angle, and in the lower - vertical.

This principle it is used both for the installation of j-profiles, and for the installation of j-platbands and near-window profiles.

Finishing of openings with J-profile VINYL-ON

Finishing openings with a j-profile is carried out according to the following principles:

To finish the opening, you will need 4 pieces of J-profile.

The size of each of the profiles is calculated as "the length of the corresponding part of the opening plus two widths of the perpendicular profile."

For example, in the figure, the width of the window opening is 1200 mm, the width of the perpendicular profile is 77 mm. For the upper part of the window, you will need a profile with a length of 1200 + 77 + 77 = 1354 mm.

Since the framing of window and door openings performs not only an aesthetic, but also a protective function, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of water runoff. To do this, on the profile, which is installed on the upper part of the opening, Stroymet installers recommend making cuts equal to the width of the perpendicular profile, and bend the resulting “tongue” down.

The side profiles are installed in such a way that the cut-out “tongue” is inside them. To do this, you need to cut a piece of vinyl in the side profiles. Be sure to leave a small gap for compression-expansion. The vertically located profile should not rest against the upper horizontal one. In this case, 3-5 mm will be enough.

Note! This principle is also used when installing near-window profiles and when installing j-platbands.

Finishing of openings with VINYL-ON near-window profile

The VINYL-ON range of accessories for installing vinyl siding includes a "near-window profile" specially designed for finishing recessed openings. The width of the working panel of the profile is 215 mm, which allows you to finish fairly deep-seated windows and doors.

In general, the method of performing installation work when installing a near-window profile repeats the principles of working with a j-profile. The main difference lies in the installation technology of the sloping part of the profile.

On the inner sloping part of the window opening, install the finishing strips. Subsequently, they need to "bring" the sloping part of the near-window profile.

To preserve the possibility of thermal contraction-expansion of the near-window profile:

• the working surface of the near-window profile (forming the slope of the opening) in horizontal profiles must be shorter than the width of the opening by the value of the temperature gap on each side.
  At the same time, in the upper profile, it is necessary to cut a piece of the desired size, and in the lower one, you can leave the “tongue” and bend it onto the slope of the opening.
• the working surface of the vertical profile in the upper joint abuts against the horizontal profile. In the lower docking node, it is necessary to leave a gap for compression-expansion.

Finishing of openings with j-platband VINYL-ON

For framing windows and doors installed in the same plane with the wall, VINYL-ON offers a special accessory - j-platband.

The order of installation of j-platbands VINYL-ON is similar to the order of installation of near-window profiles. First, the upper and lower horizontal profiles are installed, and then the vertical side profiles.

Do not forget to leave gaps for thermal contraction-expansion.

Installation of finishing strips and fillets (cornice moldings)

Since the finishing strips are located directly under the eaves or soffit, they are installed almost simultaneously with the last horizontal siding panels. However, the finish strip must be installed prior to installing the last panel of siding.

As a rule, the top panel of the siding needs to be trimmed. In this case, using a punch, make special "petals" in the panel adjacent to the finish strip, and slide the panel inside the finish strip.

If you plan to install VINYL-ON spotlights on the eaves of the house, it is more convenient to use the special accessory VINYL-ON - Galtel (cornice molding) for mounting the last siding panel.

The fillet is attached not to the wall, but to the eaves of the roof, so it can be fixed at a distance necessary for the “hook” of the siding panels.

Insert the siding panel with petals into the lock of the penultimate panel. top insert into the final profile and fasten the panel from the bottom up.

Fillet (cornice molding) VINYL-ON can also be placed simply on top of a facade finished with siding. In this case, on the last panel of the siding, it is necessary to make additional mounting holes with a puncher. Under the siding panel, if necessary, a leveling wooden plank is installed.

Panel fastened in the usual way. The fillet is installed on top of the panel and closes the mounting holes.

Installing accessories on the gable

As a receiving profile when finishing roof gables, a j-profile, Galtel (cornice molding) or an internal corner is used.

In general, the installation of j-profiles, fillets and internal corners on the gable of the roofs is carried out according to the rules for installing vertical accessories. If it is necessary to join two profiles, "overlap" the upper profile onto the lower one.

When joining two mounting profiles under the roof ridge, it is necessary to bring the front plate of the upper right profile inside the left one. To do this, you need to attach two profiles under the ridge and mark the docking point.

Cut the first profile along the marked line, in the second you need to remove only the bar with mounting holes without touching the front part. During installation, you need to bring the front bar inside the first profile.

NOTE:

• In the space under the eaves on the gables of the roofs, it often happens strong heating facade. In order to avoid heating j-profiles, indent 2-2.5 cm from the corner of the connection between the wall and the roof.
• In the offices of Stroymet, in addition to Vinylon products, you can buy vinyl siding brands,.

Installing soffits and cornice boards

We remind you that the soffits must be installed before cutting and installing the panel of the last siding panel.

Device truss system in different houses may differ. It is important to understand that in order to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space the best option is open eaves overhang. Therefore, we recommend that you remove the old boards from the closed cornice overhang before carrying out work on the installation of spotlights and accessories.

In the middle of the cornice overhang, install an additional lath of the crate, into which you subsequently need to install fasteners

The receiving profiles, in which the spotlights will subsequently be mounted, must be installed parallel to each other.

To comply with this rule, you must first install the receiving profile on the eaves. Another receiving profile is installed at the required height directly on the wall of the house using a level.

To install the soffit into the receiving profiles, measure the distance between them (along the inside) and cut the panel 6-8 mm less than this size.

Lead the soffit into the receiving profile installed on the wall, and then into the profile installed on the cornice overhang.

The connection of soffits at the corners of the roof is usually done at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees.

Installation of horizontal siding

The easiest way to mount horizontal siding on a blank wall. But in this case, it is important to observe the following rules:

• Snap the panels freely, without tightness, stop or special physical impact.
• Be sure to leave room for thermal contraction and expansion of the panels.
• Be sure to keep horizontal when installing panels. A slight distortion of one of them will lead to a distortion of the entire facade. To keep the panels horizontal, control this setting with a level after each row.

It is necessary to start the installation of siding panels from the corner of the house or from the doorway.

Slide the first panel into the mounting recess of the accessory. Hook the lock of the start bar with the lock of the panel and pull up until it clicks into place. But do not pull the panel up too much. remember, that installed panel must be able to move from side to side.

Panel fasteners start from the middle to the edges. Install the last fastener 10-15 cm from the end of the panel.

ATTENTION! It is forbidden to install horizontal siding to the stop in inner part vertical accessories.

The facade looks most aesthetically pleasing, on which the horizontal panels are interconnected using a special accessory VINYL-ON (connecting H-profile).

If it is necessary to install overlapping panels, observe the following recommendations:

• do not place panel joints under window openings or above them.
• after 2-3 rows of panels, change the location of the "overlap" on the wall.

In places of "overlapping" the panels must be trimmed as follows:

If there are any objects on the wall, always start the row of siding from the place where they are located. This will allow you to avoid an excessive number of siding panel joints.

As a rule, when framing window openings with horizontal siding, the siding panels under the window must be trimmed.

In order to mount the panel under the window, measure the width of the opening, add thermal contraction-expansion gaps to this size and cut a piece of the panel to the required depth. There will be enough clearance of 2-3 mm.

The fastening of the siding panel to the lower part of the frame of the window opening is carried out using the so-called. "petals" applied with a punch.

Attaching the siding panel to the top of the window and door frames follows the same principles.

If it is necessary to install siding panels between closely spaced vertical accessories (for example, between two window openings or between the corner of a house and a doorway), the siding panel must be folded and inserted into the mounting recesses of the accessories.

To install horizontal siding on a roof gable, you need to prepare templates that follow the angle of the roof slope.

To do this, take two pieces of the panel. Install one segment on the wall sheathing, and the second parallel to the cornice overhang.

On the first piece of the panel, draw a line using the second piece as a ruler.

Cut the marked panel along the line. It is she who will be the template for all other panels.

In the case of roof finishing where the angle of inclination changes (for example, a mansard sloping roof), it is necessary to make a set of templates for each corner of the template.

In the future, the length of the panels installed using templates is adjusted each time depending on the width of the gable.

AT without fail Leave a compressive-expansion gap between the siding panel and the bottom of the receiving accessory's mounting recess.

The installation of the last panel (under the roof ridge) is carried out through it work surface. This is the only place where fasteners can be installed in this way.

If a horizontal siding panel needs to be replaced, insert the curved end of the tool under the edge of the panel and grab the back edge of the lock with it. To open the lock, pull down and move the tool along the panel. The same procedure, but in the opposite direction, is carried out to re-fix the panel.

Installation of siding on walls adjacent to the roof

If you use roofing iron in your construction as a waterproofing, when installing the receiving profile, move it 2-2.5 cm away from the tin sheets heated in the sun.

Note:

• When used as a finish on uncoated steel roofing, it is possible for reflected sunlight to hit the siding panels, which can lead to heating of more than 55-60 ° C.
• At Stroymet you can also buy modern roofing materials Russian and European manufacturers -,.

In this case, it is best to mount the siding without an overlap, using whole panels. If overlap cannot be dispensed with, it must be done “from the roof”. In this case, the snow will slide without clogging the gap.