Installation of ceilings from plastic panels. How to install plastic panels and lighting on the ceiling with your own hands

Modern technology has come a long way. Today, the construction market can offer PVC as an alternative to the usual materials for finishing the ceiling. Plastic panels are cheap, aesthetic, and easy to install with your own hands.

Pros of plastic

PVC ceilings have a number of advantages:

Cheapness. The price of PVC is lower than that of other analogues. Low weight, which saves on profiles.

Ease of installation. Finishing the ceiling with plastic is simple, which allows you to make such ceilings with your own hands, without resorting to the services of specialists.

Hygiene. Plastic is not afraid of water, temperature fluctuations, fungus and mold, there are no pores in it where dirt and microbes could accumulate. PVC panels are easy to clean, they are not afraid of non-abrasive detergents. For these reasons, plastic panel ceilings are relevant in the kitchen, balcony, and bathroom.

Security. PVC panels are made from the same material as syringes and food containers.

Irregularity masking. The space between the plates and the ceiling will hide both surface defects and communications or additional insulation.

Durability. PVC panels with proper care will last up to 15 years, and if necessary, they can be removed and reinstalled.

Disadvantages of plastic

However, there are also disadvantages:

Appearance. Ceiling panels are usually made in plain colors, in white or close to them, and when installing cheap options, even when installed correctly, the joints will be visible.

Brittleness of the material. Ceiling plastic panels, unlike wall panels, are more fragile, and not the highest quality ones can be easily damaged by careless finger pressure.

Limited design options. PVC ceiling design is simple, it is difficult to do something unusual. Reducing the height of the room.

After weighing the pros and cons, you can decide whether you want to install plastic ceilings.

Varieties of plastic panels

The market for plastic panels is wide and is represented by a variety of models. You can classify them according to a variety of parameters.

By the type of connection, plastic panels are:

• suture. Looks like a wooden lining;
• seamless. Their distinguishing feature is that the joints after installation are almost invisible.

According to the type of coating, plastic panels are divided into:

Matte - raw and therefore the cheapest.

Glossy - coated with a special varnish, have good reflective characteristics. As you can see in the numerous photos of plastic panel ceilings, they visually help to increase the space.

Colored. For the manufacture of cheap models, thermal film is used. More expensive ones use other technologies (for example, direct printing), and the picture in them has a higher resolution.

The choice of PVC panels is very large. Therefore, it is vital to know a few rules that will help you choose high-quality material:

• The shape of a quality panel is correct, the surface is even, the pattern (if any) is clear.
• The stiffening ribs of good panels are not visible from the outside.
• Panels should join easily and without gaps.
• High-quality plastic does not have a strong smell.
• Try lightly pressing the panel or bending it - the quality ones will retain their appearance.
• Check the certificates for the goods with the seller.

Remember that only high-quality panels will serve you reliably and for a long time.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

Installation of PVC panels is possible even for non-professionals. But you need to be attentive to each stage of work so that the result satisfies you.

Calculation rules:

• measure all 4 walls: the length of opposite walls may not match;
• the number of panels is determined as follows: divide the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling by the area of ​​​​one panel and multiply by 1.2;
• the step with which you need to mount the ceiling profile and suspensions is 50-60 cm;
• the length of the starting profile is equal to the perimeter plus 10-15 cm;
• to calculate how much plastic profile is needed, you need to divide the length of the perimeter by 3;
• dowels must be taken with the calculation of 1 per half meter of the profile, self-tapping screws - 1 per half meter of the panel length.

All results should be rounded up.

You may also need docking profiles.

You will also need to do some preparatory work:

• completely remove the old ceiling trim, if necessary, then the wiring;
• small defects like cracks need to be puttied. It is not necessary to level the ceiling if you want to use the suspended mounting method, otherwise it must be leveled;
• treat the ceiling twice with an antifungal compound.

Then you can start making the frame:

Mark the ceiling by measuring the level around the perimeter and drawing lines on the walls. If you are making a ceiling in a bathroom where there is a flat tile, you can measure at the seams of the tile.

Immediately note the location of the fixtures: they may need additional space. At temperatures above +90C, plastic does not burn, but can be deformed, so it is better to purchase LED or halogen lamps.

Cut the starting profile to the length of the walls and make holes every 50 cm.

Attach it to the wall and, according to the finished marks, drill holes in it at the attachment points. Before work, be sure to check if there are any wiring in the drilling places. Otherwise, you risk damaging the power grid or puncher, or even getting an electric shock.

Attach the profile to the wall with dowels. Cut the desired amount of plastic profile. Please note that the panels must be fixed at right angles to its direction.

Insert the plastic profile into the guide. Too much distance between the carrier profiles will cause the panels to sag, so it is optimal to measure 40 cm.

If the profile is longer than one and a half meters, it must be fixed with metal hangers and twisted with self-tapping screws.

Then prepare to install the fixtures:

• wire to the places where you plan to install them. In this case, it is better to leave the wire with a margin of length and isolate the wiring well;
• additionally strengthen the guides of the place where the lamps will be installed

Now you can mount the panels:

Attach the rail to the guide profile. You can use not a rail, but a ceiling plinth by gluing it on liquid nails. Cut the panels to size for the wall.

Insert the panel into the guide rail with one end, slightly bend and insert the other end, lightly press against the wall and screw. Similarly, mount the remaining panels, tightly joining the previous one and making sure that they run the same along the entire length. Do not overdo it with pressing force, otherwise the panel will be deformed.

Once you have reached the place where you want to install the lighting fixture, mark the mounting points on the panels and drill holes. Then mount the lamp and panel.

The last panel is cut to fit the actual dimensions of the rest of the ceiling and inserted in the same way as the others. If necessary, treat the gaps and joints with acrylic sealant.

Connect power to lighting fixtures.

Ready! As you can see, the installation of PVC panel ceilings is within the reach of everyone.

Photo of a ceiling made of plastic panels

The ceiling of plastic panels is one of the options for a quick top finish in any room. It will look equally good in the bathroom, bathroom, balcony, loggia, and living rooms. Even if the next repair is planned in the distant future, it will be useful to learn how to make a high-quality ceiling from plastic panels on your own.

Harmful or not

There are conflicting opinions about whether a PVC panel ceiling is harmful when used in places where people are predominant. Moving away from the subjectivity of assessments, we can state:

1. Today, plastic is used everywhere in everyday life - from the packaging of goods to kitchen utensils. In the production of panels, raw materials used for the medical and food groups of goods are used, which undergo mandatory certification.
2. The structure of the product has no pores. Bacteria and microorganisms do not have conditions for cultivation. That is why the Sanitary and Epidemiological Service recommends panels for use in the buildings of the Ministry of Health and other institutions with mass visits to the population.
3. Plastic is easily kept clean with simple household products. At the same time, user properties and aesthetic qualities are not lost.
4. The flash point of PVC used for panel production is 360°C. At the same time, chipboard, fiberboard, OSB, which are often used for repair, enter the combustion process at 250°C. The emission of smoke from the latter is 40-50% higher.
5. The plastic ceiling "does not breathe", that is, it does not let air through, does not deform, and condensate is not removed. It is a fact. But all apartments and modern private houses are equipped with ventilation. The same applies to houses of old construction, where the owner is allocated a place for bathrooms and sanitary facilities, if they were not provided for when the building was sublined. The issue of air exchange and humidity control is not solved at the expense of the ceiling part of the room.

Thus, the assertion that the use of plastic panels destroys the microclimate of the room and is potentially dangerous for people to stay has no basis.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

PVC ceiling panels are classified according to several criteria:

1. The density of the material.
2. The size of the element.
3. Connection type.
4. Color and texture design.

The connection type determines whether the finish will have a visible seam or be seamless. The method of final processing endows the product with color and texture, and the surface can be:

• monophonic, not fading when exposed to ultraviolet light;
• lacquered, with a special coating that gives a special shine, but scratches can ruin the look;
• printed pattern with many patterns, but the plastic is soft. And the service life is limited;
• laminated, completely repeating natural materials and their derivatives, subject to delamination with prolonged direct exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

All options are resistant to water or steam, do not change the structure at moderate temperature changes.

In the manufacture of PVC panels for the ceiling, manufacturers are guided by standardized dimensions, where the width can be 100, 200, 250 mm, length - 2700, 3000, 4000 and 6000 mm, with a thickness of 10 mm.

The presented photos show design options for the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, bedroom, hallway and corridor.

Advice! The service life, in addition to the recommended conditions of use, depends on the density of the elements. Almost all panels are in an affordable price category, but less dense (soft) panels are cheaper. Savings when buying can lead to new expenses in the near future.

Preparatory activities

Like other finishing work during repairs, panels on the ceiling cannot be fixed without prior preparation. It is necessary to carry out a number of activities:

1. Calculate the number of panels, accessories, fasteners. In terms of taking into account the placement of fixtures, wiring routing.
2. Check the readiness of the tool and accessories.
3. Free the room from furniture that interferes with the pre-treatment of the ceiling and direct installation.
4. Remove the remnants of the old finish from the ceiling surface.
5. Check wiring. In its deplorable state, and also if a change in the position of lighting devices is planned, they are dismantled, having previously disconnected the input wires from the electrical network.
6. Inspect the ceiling for defects. Pay special attention to the joints of the floor slabs, the joints of the walls from the side of the street. Putty cracks.
7. Prime the ceiling plane with antibacterial mixtures.

Attention! If the installation is planned to be carried out on suspensions (suspended ceiling), then the scope of these activities is sufficient. But in the case of fastening the guides directly to the ceiling, they additionally level the plane with gypsum-based putty.

Calculation principles

A simple mathematical calculation makes it possible to purchase the required number of panels and other consumables. First of all, the installation area is determined by multiplying the length and width of the room. Then the result is divided by the area of ​​one PVC part, and the required number of parts is obtained. 10-15% should be added to the result obtained, rounding the value to the whole panel. This reserve is useful in case of erroneous dissolution or installation flaws.

The following is calculated:

• purchase volume of the ceiling profile, as well as suspensions (mounting interval 500-600 mm);
• the length of the starting profile, where it is equal to the length of the perimeter and 100 mm of margin;
• dowels, if the metal profile is fastened in increments of 500 mm;
• self-tapping screws, at a consumption piece / meter, respectively, 1 / 0.5.

Additionally, you should purchase a profile for connecting the end parts of the panels, internal and external corners for joining the structure.

Tools and accessories

To perform work, prepare the following tools and accessories:

1. Hole drilling. It can be an electric or hand drill, a semi-professional or professional screwdriver with a set of drills, bits.
2. Dissolution of blanks. Carpentry knife, hacksaw with blade for cutting metal.
3. Measurements and markings. Roulette, building level, twine, marker or pencil. Suspensions.
4. Metal profile for mounting ceiling structures: UD - 25/25 mm and CD - 25/60 mm in the estimated quantity.

Advice! Repair is a planned event. Therefore, it is recommended to prepare the tool and purchase consumables in advance.

How to install a false ceiling made of plastic

There are several options for attaching panels. A simple one is represented by a straight lathing of the ceiling surface with a beam with an interval of 500-600 mm, a sequential lock assembly of panels. This option is applicable if, as a result of preliminary preparation, the surface is leveled close to ideal, as well as with low ceilings. But it should be borne in mind that the wooden beam "takes" moisture, deforms. Therefore, the plane of the finish surface will undergo a change.

Another way is a do-it-yourself suspended ceiling made of plastic panels using a metal profile. In this case, the design will not lose consumer properties at any humidity and temperature changes. It is about him that will be discussed further.

Assembling the frame

Work begins with markup. To do this, use previously prepared measuring and marker accessories. The order is presented as follows:

1. Fix the height of all corners and the value in the center of the room (floor - ceiling).
2. The lowest angle compared to the base values ​​will be the starting point. It is from him that the gap of the formed interceiling space is measured (ceiling - panel). For the convenience of attaching the cord, fix the point by screwing in a self-tapping screw.
3. Using a level and a cord, they “beat off” the plane to the entire perimeter of the room, where the outlined line will be the junction of the plastic structure.
4. On the opposite walls, places for placing metal profiles are added. Planned intervals are not more than 500 mm.
5. Lastly, mark the places of installation of suspensions. It is important to apply the markup with maximum accuracy, since it is difficult to eliminate flaws during installation.

It should be checked whether there are any hidden electrical wiring at the attachment points of the hangers. To do this, use a special detector or seek help from a professional electrician. Further activities include:

• along the wall markings, the guide profile is fastened around the entire perimeter, with the exception of the side where the installation is planned to be completed, to facilitate the fitting of the end plate;
• at previously designated places, holes are drilled for dowels, and suspensions are attached;
• next, cut the profile to the desired length, insert it into the guides, fix it with screws on the hangers;
• carry out constant control of the horizon of the plane with the help of a stretched cord.

Attention! This stage of work completes the wiring tracing, and if planned, communications. It is recommended to place the wires in special corrugated sleeves. Their use allows you to timely identify the wiring during drilling, simplifies the complete replacement of part of the wire and additionally protects against moisture penetration.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

Panels on the ceiling are installed perpendicular to the rails in the following order:

1. Measure the distance between the guide profiles. Transfer measurements by markup to the panel. Cut off excess. To do this, use a sharp knife or a hacksaw with a fine tooth and a thin blade.
2. On the cut edges, the notches are removed with fine-grained sandpaper. The panel is released from individual packaging, if it has not been previously removed.
3. One end is inserted into the starting profile, palatal bent, the second end is placed in the opposite wall mount.
4. With a little effort, move the plastic element to the installed perpendicular mount. Thus, it is fixed in three planes.
5. On the side with the locking device, the lower part is fixed to the crate with a self-tapping screw.
6. Repeat the operation with the next panel, with the difference that it is necessary to ensure an accurate hit in the grooves along the entire length of the part.
7. On the panels where the installation of lighting devices is supposed, technical holes of the recommended diameter are drilled. In order to avoid unintentional fracture of the plane, the work is carried out with extreme care, avoiding excessive physical effort.
8. Similarly, elements are installed along the entire length of the room, while the installation of the end panel has some features.

Installation of a plastic lining on the ceiling is presented in the following video:

Installation of the last panel and plinth

The last panel for the ceiling is placed in the rest of the space completely in very rare cases, as a rule, trimming is required. The procedure is presented as follows:

• carry out accurate measurements on both sides of the panel, a small error could occur during installation;
• measurements are transferred to the workpiece, the points are connected with a piece of the profile and cut off;
• together with the finishing wall profile, they are placed in a pants place;
• the latter is fixed with an adhesive mixture "liquid nails".

Ceiling plinth is a mandatory attribute of a plastic ceiling. Molding gives a finished look to the room, provides a smooth transition of wall and ceiling planes. To properly fit the baguette at the corners, you need a miter box. If not, then one of the simple markup techniques will suffice. You can use a sheet of notebook in a box. It depicts two lines intersecting in the center. Then the bisectors of the corners are drawn and the 450 required for even trimming are obtained.

Advice! Before fixing with an adhesive solution, a preliminary fitting is carried out. If necessary, the joined ends are adjusted additionally.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

They complete the installation work on the installation of plastic panels for the ceiling by gluing skirting boards and sealing acrylic gaps. After installing the last panel, as a rule, it becomes necessary to seal the joint. At the same time, to make the ceiling plane look monolithic, the joints are filled with acrylic compounds. The order of work is presented as follows:

1. It is possible to carry out a culling by preliminary inspection of the entire plane, but it is more practical to visually divide the plane into squares, and sequentially seal all the cracks as you move through the sections.
2. Elimination of flaws is recommended to be carried out with a construction gun with a tube filled with acrylic.
3. Simultaneous filling of slots is carried out in small areas (350-450 mm). Excess is removed immediately, the seam is leveled.
4. The acrylic hardening rate is quite high, therefore, if the area where the composition was placed is missed and it has time to dry, it is carefully removed with a spatula or knife, followed by rubbing the place with warm water.

Attention! The drying of this type of grouting material is accompanied by a slight shrinkage, and it may be necessary to re-grout the flaws after the first layer has completely dried, that is, 7-11 hours.

Plastic ceiling fixtures

Changing the finish of the ceiling makes it possible to check the condition of the electrical wiring, change the location of lighting fixtures, and install modern models. If the ceiling in the bathroom is made of plastic panels, then it is possible to zoning the lighting without damaging the wall tiles, place the wires discreetly above the panels.

When tracing and connecting peripheral electrical devices on your own, you must adhere to safety rules, namely:

1. Dismantling and subsequent work is carried out after disconnecting the room from the general electrical network. To make sure that there is no voltage, a household “probe-indicator” in the form of a screwdriver will help.
2. It is recommended to pre-prepare an electrical wiring diagram for the location of lighting devices, switches.
3. Wires for new wiring are purchased with a cross section corresponding to the maximum load when all devices are turned on. Consultation on this issue can be obtained from trade organizations.
4. In the places where lamps and switches are connected, a wire is left with a margin - the “loop” will come in handy if you have to carry out repairs or change equipment if it malfunctions.
5. After tracing the wires, it is useful, without connecting to the network, to check the correct execution of the circuit using a household voltmeter.

Attention! If the home master does not have experience in self-wiring and connecting appliances, in order to avoid accidents from electric shock during subsequent operation, a professional electrician should be invited.

Features of the selection and installation of fixtures for 220 V

When choosing lighting fixtures, consider the following:

1. The ignition temperature of plastic is high and it is almost impossible to achieve it by contact with a light bulb. But exceeding the heating rate will lead to melting of the seat, a change in color, structure and the appearance of a smell. In this regard, light bulbs with a power not exceeding 40 watts are used.
2. The security parameters of the lighting device itself. Their importance increases when used in rooms with a high level of humidity. Therefore, it is recommended to use lamps with a protection level of at least IP44.
3. Based on safety requirements, it is impossible to place lighting devices closer than half a meter to the location of the bathroom or shower.
4. The switchboard of lighting fixtures in rooms with high humidity is located outside the room.
5. Places for the installation of fixtures are prepared in the process of direct installation of panels. The diameter of the seat for the lighting system, depending on the brand and manufacturer, ranges from 58-74 mm. There are two ways to make a hole.

The first is represented by the use of a suitable wood crown.

The second one takes a little more time, but does not require the use of a special tool. The installation site is marked with an ordinary compass. A small incision is made with a sharp knife, and the contour is cut out with a household jigsaw. With all the increase in the time for the procedure, the probability of damage to the panel as a result of inaccurate use of an electric drilling tool is significantly reduced.

Halogen and LED

A twelve-volt supply voltage distinguishes halogen and LED lighting devices from standard ones, and to create it, a step-down transformer is included in the electrical supply network. The place of its installation should exclude the possibility of penetration of condensate, and even more water. Safety requirements provide for the installation of a separate automatic fuse, with a rating of at least 8 A.

When determining the number of spotlight sources in any premises where it is planned to install a plastic ceiling with a height of more than 2.6 meters, the following are taken into account:

• the lighting cone when they are turned on does not exceed an angle of 300;
• for good light density, lamps are installed at intervals of no more than one meter;
• the distance from the wall plane to the first lama is 0.6 m or more;
• to connect groups of lamps, special pads are used; even soldered ones are not recommended to make “twisting”;
• to ensure accurate polarity at the power terminals of the device, it is necessary to trace the wire uniformly, for example, black - plus, white - minus, wire with a notch - "ground";
• when attaching lamps to the frame, special devices (latches, clamps) must be used.

The installation procedure for a spotlight is as follows:

1. Separate the base part from the light element.
2. The block is connected to the wire terminals.
3. The light element is placed in a regular place and the function is checked.
4. With a positive result, the spotlight is fixed to the base with clamps.
5. Installation of a decorative lining and a thermal insulator completes the installation. It should be noted that the designs of fixtures have differences, and therefore it is recommended to study the instructions for the device before installation.

How to install lighting elements presents the following videos:

Conclusion

The presented material indicates that the plastic ceiling, for domestic use, is no more dangerous to humans than chipboard panels, while it has a number of advantages. One of them is represented by the possibility of self-assembly, without the need to purchase special tools and accessories. A wide palette of panel colors allows you to create a ceiling for many interior styles.

Gallery of finished works

You can use different materials to finish the ceiling, but PVC panels are the most practical, affordable and easy to install.

Any home craftsman can make a ceiling from PVC panels with his own hands, for this you need to purchase or rent the necessary tools, study the installation sequence and the recommendations of specialists.

In order to independently, you first need to correctly calculate their number and the required length, figure out how the installation of the supporting structure and the panels themselves is carried out, after which you can begin to work.

Before starting to calculate the amount of materials needed, you need to decide which PVC panels you will use, since they have different sizes. pay attention to the fact that the panels are ceiling, and not. Since they are not subjected to serious loads on the ceiling, their strength will be less, respectively, and the cost will be lower.

The standard dimensions of the ceiling panels will be as follows:

• thickness within 3-5 mm;
• width from 125 to 350 mm;
• length is usually from 2.7 m to 6 and even 10 m.

Ceiling in the bathroom

Of great importance is such a parameter as the width of the material. If you veneer, there will be fewer seams, so the surface will look more solid. Narrow panels have their advantages: they are much easier to work with, but they produce a large number of seams. Experts recommend using medium-width material for finishing the ceiling, so it should be 250 mm.

When you decide on the length and width of the panels, be sure to pay attention to the quality of their workmanship. When choosing a material, pay attention to the following characteristics:

• it is necessary to observe the geometry of the products, and their surface must be even and smooth;
• if there is a drawing, then it should be applied clearly and evenly;
• stiffeners should not shine through on the front side;
• compare several types of panels, the more stiffeners they have, the stronger the structure will be;
• pay attention to such a characteristic as the thickness of the stiffeners and external walls;
• try to connect two parts, docking should be easy, and the gap should be minimal, almost imperceptible;
• check the material for bending, it should not crack and change its shape.

Calculation of the number of panels for the ceiling

To calculate the number of PVC panels, you first need to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in which the ceiling will be finished. To determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, multiply its length by its width. On the packaging of PVC panels, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone element must be indicated. It remains for you to divide the resulting ceiling area by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone element, and you get the number of required panels.

When determining the number of panels, a fractional number is usually obtained, it is rounded up, 15-20% is added, which will be spent on cuts, and the number of panels that you need to purchase is obtained. It is necessary to focus on the length and width of the room, decide how the panels will be installed, along or across, and in accordance with this, choose the required length of the elements.

Ceiling with LED lights

In addition to the required number of PVC panels, the number of metal profiles used for the crate is calculated. To do this, make a diagram of the room on paper and draw parallel lines along the wall at a distance of 0.6 mm from each other. Carry out the calculation and get the required length of the profiles.

The standard length of a galvanized profile is 3 m, so the resulting length is divided by 3 and the number of profiles is obtained. If the area of ​​​​the room is more than 6 m 2, then transverse strips are also installed, the number of which is calculated separately, in accordance with the scheme for their installation.

Ceiling finish option

A more rigid profile is installed on the walls along the perimeter; to determine its quantity, it is necessary to calculate the perimeter of the ceiling. Calculation is carried out for dowels for fastening profiles to the ceiling and self-tapping screws, with which PVC panels are attached to the crate. For every 50 cm of a profile or panel, one dowel or self-tapping screw is required.

To determine the length of the ceiling plinth, you need to divide the resulting room perimeter by 3 (the length of the plinth), round up to a larger integer, and you will get the required number of elements.

Instead of a galvanized profile and self-tapping screws, when creating a crate in a room with normal humidity, you can use wooden elements and staples.

PVC ceiling installation

Regardless of the material used to create the frame, the markup is done in the same way. Usually the distance between the profiles is 60 cm, marks are made on the ceiling across the direction of laying the panels on opposite sides, and markings are applied using a chopping cord.

Ceiling installation

If the frame is attached not to the surface of the ceiling, but on suspensions, then the line marked on the walls around the perimeter of the room is lowered to the required distance. In addition, on broken lines for profiles, every 50-70 cm marks are made for attaching suspensions.

Support structure device

If the PVC ceiling will be lowered, then at first the suspensions are fixed at the marked points, this is done with the help of dowels. At the next stage, a metal profile is attached to the wall along the perimeter of the room. First, it is installed on the marked line, then holes are made in the wall at a distance of 30-40 cm, they are made through the profile and immediately fixed with dowels.

Now the ends of the profile cut along the length are inserted into the wall profile, and it is fixed with self-tapping screws to the suspensions; for the reliability of the structure, this must be done on both sides to each suspension. After that, the ends of each element are fixed with screws.

ceiling lining

After mounting the frame, electrical wiring is carried out, for this, the corrugated pipes are attached to the suspensions, and the cable is already laid in them.

If the area of ​​​​the room is more than 6 square meters, then transverse jumpers must be installed between the longitudinal load-bearing profiles, which are needed to enhance the rigidity of the structure.

Ceiling cladding with PVC panels

Regardless of what material was used to create the frame, the installation of PVC panels is carried out in the same way. Keep in mind that wood is easier to work with, but metal elements are lighter and more durable.

Installation of PVC panels is carried out in the following order:

• along the perimeter of the room, a starting bar is mounted on the installed profile;
• if it is planned to install a ceiling plinth, then a special rail is installed for it;
• after that, the ceiling plinth is mounted;
• the first panel is inserted into the gap on the plinth or starting bar, which has a U-shape;
• the first element is aligned and fixed with screws or brackets to each carrier profile;
• the next panel with its spike should fit snugly into the groove of the previous one, the parts should be tightly connected so that the gap between them is minimal;
• after that, the panel is fixed, and so all subsequent elements are mounted;
• in those places where the fixtures will be installed, holes are pre-made in the panels, and during installation, the cable is output into them;
• the last panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one. If its width is large, then you have to cut it to the desired parameters;
• against the wall, the panel can be fixed with self-tapping screws through and through, since then they will be hidden under the plinth;
• it remains to install a ceiling plinth, which will close the gap between the wall and;
• installation and connection of spotlights is carried out in ready-made places.

Expert advice when finishing the ceiling with PVC panels:

• in order to prevent the reproduction of fungus and mold, the surface of the panels, as well as all wooden elements, must be treated with special means before installation;
• even if the ceiling is even, plastic panels cannot be glued to concrete, as there will be no ventilation;
• buy only high-quality material, an attempt to save money by purchasing cheap materials leads to the fact that they quickly lose their color and shape, they can release harmful substances;
• before installing the panels, be sure to make electrical wiring and check its performance;
• in rooms with high humidity, you can not make a frame of wooden elements.

Summarizing

If you decide to finish the ceiling yourself, then the best option, which has a beautiful appearance and low cost, is to use PVC panels. Installation of this material is easy, so you can cope with the work without outside help, it is enough to study the installation technology and follow all the recommendations of specialists.

Related video

The domestic construction market today is full of various kinds of materials for decorating the ceiling surface in a country house or city apartment. Most of them are really worth the attention of buyers, and especially, the PVC panel ceiling, tools, bathroom installation procedures and expert tips further.

If we start from the “cost” criterion, then the PVC ceiling finish occupies a leading position among other materials that can be used. It is carried out using polyvinyl chloride panels, which provide a person with the opportunity to easily and without difficulty sheathe the surface of the ceiling in a room for any purpose. It is no less interesting to use MDF boards: suspended structures made of MDF look expensive and attractive. However, they show a low degree of moisture resistance.

This method of finishing can be done with your own hands without first leveling the base, this fact allows you to save a lot in the repair process. And the technology of creating PVC ceilings is not at all complicated. It is enough to study the technology and ask for the opinion of qualified specialists, and even without experience, you can do such a finish with your own hands.

Advantages of PVC ceilings

In recent years, in a bathroom where MDF cannot be used, it is incredibly popular to finish the ceiling surface with polyvinyl chloride panels. This trend is explained by a large number of advantages of this technology.

What tools and materials will be needed

To create ceilings, special PVC panels are used. Today, in building stores, you can purchase similar material in the form of sheets of standard size with a width of 25 and 50 cm. To calculate its current volume, you will need to take measurements of the bathroom, calculate its area and add another 15% to this number for cutting sheets.

More materials needed:

• fixation of PVC panels is carried out using special fasteners (screws with a press washer or special metal clips) on a pre-formed frame. The latter is created on the ceiling surface from a special profile with a small step;
• also, a U-shaped plastic profile is mounted around the perimeter of the room, into which the edges of the sheet material are subsequently inserted. The profile must be fixed with plastic dowels with nails-screws;
• the crate is made of a wooden beam with dimensions of 20x40 mm. Also for these purposes, you can use a metal profile intended for drywall. If we are talking about a bathroom, then the metal profile will be the only right decision. A tree with high humidity, which is typical for a bathroom, will quickly dry out and become unusable.

PVC panels can be of different colors

Installation of suspended structures using PVC boards is carried out using the same tools as in the case of MDF:

• screwdriver;
• yardstick;
• level;
• hammer;
• miter box;
• hand saw;

Plastic panel ceiling mounting tools

Installation of PVC panels

It is not necessary to be a professional builder to renovate a bathroom in your country cottage and city apartment. The main thing is to determine for yourself what result you want to see. If you are looking for durable, practical and beautiful ceilings, opt for the option of using polyvinyl chloride boards. This is a good choice for the bathroom.

To install PVC slab ceilings with your own hands, you need to follow a certain procedure. All work can be conditionally divided into stages. Let's talk about each next.

Training

Despite the fact that the ceiling surface will become completely hidden from human eyes, it must be cleaned of any elements present on it. If this recommendation is neglected, such elements may fall off in the future, damaging the structure.

So, it is worth removing the old plaster with your own hands and so on. Further, the base is carefully primed with a special compound. And only after priming, marking should be carried out for the installation of a metal frame.

Prepared ceiling surface

markup

On each wall around the entire perimeter of the room, you need to draw a line to indicate a single level of the future suspended structure. At this stage of work, it is important to take into account the parameters of the lighting fixtures that are planned to be installed. The curvature of the base, hidden wiring and communications of a different kind are also taken into account. So for wiring between the upper edge of the metal frame and the ceiling, a 2 cm gap is left.

For a guide when measuring the descent, choose the lowest point on the base. Focusing on it, the marks are transferred to the walls using a level. To connect the marks with a line, you can use a rope coated with chalk. It is pressed against the wall surface according to the marks, and the chalk will leave a neat mark on the wall. After delineating the perimeter, proceed to the marking of the supporting elements of the frame.

Ceiling surface marking

The metal profile is placed perpendicular to the selected direction of the PVC panels in increments of 50 cm. If you select a larger parameter, the hinged structure may sag.

Installation of a metal frame

To install the frame with your own hands in the bathroom, it is better to prefer a galvanized steel profile. This is a durable and durable option that needs to be fixed with U-shaped elements. The latter are located in increments of 70-80 cm and are mounted to the ceiling surface with anchors with a driven wedge, and to the metal profile - with screws with a drill at the end.

There is no need to install jumpers between the supporting elements of the frame. This is required in places where heavy elements are attached: chandeliers and so on. Next, you need to lay the power cables for organizing lighting. To mount a spot light, loops 15 cm long should be made.

Hangers for fastening profiles

Metal frame for PVC panels

Fastening metal frame parts

When using polyvinyl chloride boards, as well as when using MDF, the wires must be hidden inside the corrugations. These are the fire safety requirements.

Installation of PVC boards

Next, you should proceed to the installation of panels with your own hands. This process is distinguished by a high degree of responsibility, because the mistakes made here will negate all the preliminary work. The first strip is wound into a U-shaped metal profile. Builders with experience recommend cutting at the edge of the strip. When she got up, the material must be fastened with screws to each supporting metal profile. Cutting a strip of the current size is carried out by using a knife or a hand saw, because the panels are cut quite easily.

Experienced craftsmen will tell you that the panel should be cut to a length less than the gap between the walls. Thus, from the ends there should be a gap between the material and the wall.

The next strip should be applied to the lock along the entire length at a small angle and brought into it. Next, the second side of the strip must be pressed against the metal frame and fixed on it with screws. In order for all the strips to be brought as close as possible, it is necessary to use a bar of the same material. It is tapped with a hammer, after inserting the element into the groove. However, excessive force should not be applied, otherwise the material may be damaged.

Panel installation

Panel fixing

Fastening with clamps

It is good if the work is done with an assistant. Or you can use simple props. Difficulties arise only when attaching the last strip. To avoid them, you can change the direction of the last strip and cut the material along the entire length from the side where there is a groove to the current width. Then, it remains only to fasten the last part, attaching tightly to the penultimate socket.

Final stage

After all the PVC plates are installed, you can proceed to finishing the structure. It involves the use of plinth around the entire perimeter of the room. This element is fixed on the wall with liquid nails. However, it is necessary to apply the composition to the product only on one side of it. The smeared side is applied either to the ceiling or to the wall surface. If a collapsible type of plinth is used, then it is enough just to snap the mating part. In the corners of the room, special adapter sleeves are used. And for the installation of lighting fixtures, holes of the appropriate diameter are made.

At the end of the work, baguettes are installed around the perimeter

4670 0 0

We make a ceiling from plastic panels: detailed instructions and a photo report for the work performed

Greetings. In this article I will talk about how to make a ceiling from plastic panels. In our time, finishing the ceiling with plastic panels is becoming more common in the decoration of such premises as bathrooms, kitchens, hallways, balconies, etc. And this is not surprising, since the use of plastic panels allows you to finish the ceiling quickly, cheaply and for a long time.

Features of facing with plastic panels

Plastic panels or as they are called plastic lining are made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Such a finishing material is distinguished by the following qualities:

• Light weight due to the hollow structure;
• Structural rigidity due to the presence of longitudinal stiffeners in the internal volume of the bar;
• Abrasion resistance due to through-painting of plastic;
• Chemical resistance- PVC lining can be washed with anything, with the exception of acetone-containing solvents;
• Variety of colors and textures(there is even a peach color with a matte surface);
• Affordable price compared to wooden lining.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling is carried out with the preliminary installation of a supporting frame - crates made of a metal profile or a wooden beam. As a result, it becomes possible to easily and efficiently install communications and lighting equipment. This advantage will be relevant when arranging a kitchen or hallway, where a suspended ceiling and spot lighting are traditionally installed.

What sizes of PVC panels are preferred when finishing the ceiling?

It seems to me that narrow planks, with rare exceptions, do not look very good on the ceiling. In addition, narrow lining is more difficult to mount, since more strips have to be fixed, which takes more time. The optimal size is the length of PVC panels 3 meters and a width of 250 mm.

I draw your attention to a very important point - when buying a plastic lining, do not unpack the pack and inspect each panel from the front for relief. As you can see in the photo, the new board has dented areas, which means that it will need to be replaced with a board of the same size and color, but without damage.

At what distance should the plastic cladding recede from the draft ceiling? The minimum distance is determined by two parameters:

• The lowest point on the draft ceiling, since it is at this point that the finish will be equal
• The thickness of the selected profile.

How to make a plastic ceiling? The main stages of work to be carried out are listed in this table.

Let's consider the above steps in more detail.

Assembling the frame for mounting panels

What is better to use for assembling the crate - a metal profile or a wooden beam?

It all depends on what materials are available. That is, if there is a beam, we use it, if there are metal products, we install them.

If there is neither one nor the other, I advise you to use a profile, since it is not inferior in strength to wood and at the same time weighs less. In addition, the price of a metal crate will be more affordable than the cost of a frame made of timber, and installation will be faster.

To implement this stage of installation work, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Perforator and drill bits for concrete;
• Screwdriver with the function of a drill and a drill for metal;
• Scissors for metal;
• Hammer;
• Water level and lace;
• Stable ladder;
• U-shaped metal profile 25×50×25 mm;
• Mounting hangers, taking into account the location every 40 cm along the length of the intermediate profiles;
• Self-tapping screws for the assembly of metal structures from the profile;
• Screws with plastic dowels.

How to install a crate for a plastic ceiling in the bathroom?

• We determine how much the new ceiling will be lowered relative to the standard ceiling;
• Using the level, we mark the location of the profile along the perimeter of the walls;

• We connect the points set in the corners, beating the line with a lace;
• We measure the length of the walls according to the markup;
• The resulting dimensions are transferred to the U-shaped profile and cut into fragments that will be fixed along the perimeter of the walls;
• If the used profile is non-perforated, we drill holes in it with a drill for metal according to the diameter of the prepared dowels, taking into account the step between the fasteners no more than 40 cm;

• We apply the prepared profiles to the line, beaten off along the cord, and drill holes for the dowels in the wall;

If, as in our case, work is carried out in a tiled room, we use a perforator and drills with victorious surfacing to drill the walls. We fasten the belt from the profile in two passes. First, in the drilling mode, we pass through the tile. Then, in the impact mode, we drill the wall.

• We drive dowels into the holes made and fix the profile according to the markup;
• On the overlap with a cord, we beat off the location of the intermediate profiles;
• On the marked lines on the dowels with a step of no more than 0.5 meters, we fasten the suspensions;

• We start intermediate guide battens into a profile fixed along the perimeter of the room and fasten them with screws to the suspensions;

The profile in the middle of the room can sag under its own weight. So that during the installation of the crate a characteristic “belly” does not form, we stretch the cord in the center of the room between the profiles fixed around the perimeter. As a result, the intermediate crossbars in the crate should touch the cord, but not push through it.

By the way, it happens that the metal profile is short, which means that from several smaller planks you need to assemble a bar that fits in size. How to do it?

In fact, there is nothing complicated. It is necessary to dock two pieces of the profile and insert a piece with a smaller cross section into the combined ends.

Then the assembled structure, as shown in the photo, must be fixed with self-tapping screws.

Now you know how to cover the ceiling with a metal frame, which means it's time to install a ceiling plinth, into which we will then wind PVC edges.

Fixing skirting around the perimeter of the room

If you work in a tiled room, before proceeding with the installation of the plinth, you need to grout the tile joints. If this is not done in advance, then it will be very difficult to crawl under the installed plinth. But, if you apply the grout before the end of the installation work, by the end of the repair it will be dusty and dirty.

Installation is carried out using the following tools and materials:

• Screwdriver and self-tapping screws for metal;
• A miter box and a hacksaw for cutting the skirting board at the right angle;
• segment knife;
• Liquid nails or baguette glue;
• 647 thinner or white spirit;
• Lint-free rag.

The instructions for installing the skirting board are as follows:

• With a lint-free cloth dipped in a solvent, we wipe the perimeter of the walls directly under the profile;

If you do not degrease the surface of the tile, the glue will stick, but not for long. Degreasing improves the adhesion of wall cladding and adhesive.

• We cut 4 pieces of plinth along the length of the walls so that their ends have an angle of 45 degrees, provided that the angle between the walls is straight;

It is advisable to use solid skirting boards, as the result will look better and be more reliable in operation. In addition, we will only glue the plinth on 3 walls - 2 long and 1 short. The opposite short wall can be sealed with a skirting board after the last panel has been installed.

• We apply a line of glue on the baseboard along the wide shelf;

By the way, so that the glue does not flow from the cylinder when it is not necessary, after applying the strip, do not forget to snap off the gun to relieve pressure.

• We apply the plinth with the adhesive side to the wall and press down along the entire length;

• Then tear off the glued bar and count 5 seconds;

• After that, we glue the bar in place and finally press it along the entire length to the wall and the profile of the crate;

Since the underside of the skirting board and the tile are glossy, it is possible that the plastic strip will slide when glued. In order not to stand and hold the bar for half an hour or an hour until it dries completely, I recommend cutting an unnecessary piece of the panel into small fragments and, as shown in the photo, insert it into the baseboard and grab it to the crate with a self-tapping screw. After the glue has completely dried, the accessories will need to be removed.

Fasteners for plastic lining

To complete this step, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Screwdriver with a figured bat;
• Hacksaw and segment knife;
• Large square;
• Roulette;
• A pencil or marker that can be washed off;
• Self-tapping screws with a press washer.

The most difficult moment is the installation of the first and last board, so I recommend that you especially focus on these points.

Installation starts from the wall opposite the front door. This is done so that solid planks are visible, as they will be striking. At the same time, cut off - the last bar located above the entrance will be almost invisible.

Before sewing up the surface with panels, a few words about how to cut them. To begin with, we draw a strip along the square, which will be located at a right angle to the longitudinal edges of the lining. Further on the knife we ​​put forward one segment, and we make several continuous cuts along one line.

After that, the bar can be carefully broken and the edges of the cut can be corrected so that there is no bend.

How to finish the ceiling with plastic clapboard correctly?

• We measure the size of the planks and cut the first panel according to these dimensions;

How to take measurements correctly? We measure the distance from wall to wall, and subtract 2 cm from the resulting number, that is, 1 cm on each side. This is necessary so that the cut plank enters, as shown in the photo, and so that it does not have to be strongly bent.

• We insert the cut bar into the plinth against the wall with the end where the spike is located so that the side with the groove looks towards the open crate;

The groove in the baseboard is not perfectly even, so it may happen that the edge of the plank rests when you push it in. Do not make much effort and, moreover, do not knock on the back of the bar. Take a plastering spatula and, pushing it between the edge of the plank and the plinth, try to bend the “wave”. You will feel that the plank has entered properly when it rests with its entire edge against the edge of the groove on the plinth.

• After the first plank has risen evenly, we fasten it with self-tapping screws to the profile;

How to fix the bar with self-tapping screws? Someone is screwing a self-tapping screw directly into the edge of the pvc ceiling panel. I do not recommend doing this, it is better to screw it into the profile so that the plastic is pressed with a press washer.

• At the corners of the first plank, we screw the screws in such a way that they press not only the panel, but also the edge of the plinth;

• If the angle between the walls in the room is straight, we measure how many planks are required for the ceiling, and we make the required number of blanks in one size;
• If the angle between the walls is not straight, we take measurements for each panel separately;
• After the first panel is installed, we report the plastic panels to the ceiling in the same way up to the last plank;

When tightened with a self-tapping screw, the edge of the panel rises and a gap opens close to the plinth. What can be done so that there is no gap? You can lower the self-tapping screw, but in this way the strength of the entire structure will be limited. The best option is to slip small pieces of lining into the gap between the bar and the profile in the immediate vicinity of the self-tapping screw.

• We measure the last bar both in length and in width;

When we measure the remaining gap in width, subtract 1 cm from the resulting number in order to insert the panel with a spike into the groove and move it to the wall.

• We cut the bar according to the dimensions taken;

• We start the cut panel with a spike into the groove, pushing it from the cut edge with a spatula;

• From pieces of the plank we cut small liners, which we put into the gap between the edge of the lining and the wall;

• We mark the previously prepared fourth piece of the plinth under the spacers nested between the lining and the wall;
• According to the markings on the plinth, we make cutouts;

• Next, we cut the groove on the plinth, which includes the lining, so that it enters the recess between the ceiling sheathing and the wall;
• Now we apply glue to the side of the plinth that will fit in the wall and glue it into the gap;

• On this, the ceiling lining can be considered finished.

Output

So, I talked in some detail about how to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels. I hope that the proposed instructions will be useful to you and you can apply them when arranging your home.

Probably, during the decoration of the premises you will have certain questions. Ask these questions in the comments to the text and I promise you will get comprehensive answers. In addition, I recommend watching the video in this article.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!