The interior door catches the box. Troubleshooting and defects in the installation of an interior door (adjustment of the door block)
The problem of skewed doors is not so rare, arising due to many reasons during its operation. The doors begin to close poorly or not close at all, touch the box, or even completely jam.
The interior door does not close due to an incorrect gap between the leaf and the door frame
Consider the most common cases of door skew problems and how to fix them. The main reasons for the unsatisfactory operation of the doors can be the following:
- Insufficient fastening of the hinges or their bending.
- The appearance of places of deformation of the door frame.
- Curvature of the leaf of the door itself.
Insufficient fastening of the hinges or their bending
The first trouble occurs due to the natural wear of the hinges and, as a result, the sagging of the door leaf. Of course, in this case, the canvas, and specifically the doors, will not fit well into the box, that is, they will close with force. The problem is solved quite simply: by completely replacing the hinges or by lining washers of a certain size. In extreme cases, you can make a ring of wire, which will temporarily eliminate the worked out part of the loops.
If your door constantly hits the threshold or is difficult to close, you may need to replace, adjust or re-hinge the hinges.
If you still decide to purchase new hinges, you need to pay attention to the thickness of the plates so as not to deepen the seat under them, as well as to the location of the seats in the plate. The best option would be if you take an old loop, which will serve as a model, and visit the store with it. But it happens that such loops were not on sale. Then you will have to deepen the seat under the plates with a chisel, and hammer wooden pegs pre-lubricated with PVA glue into the places where the screws were screwed.
Hinge installation
And it happens that the hinges begin to deform from an increase in the weight of the doors if they are decorated with some material, for example, veneer. Then you will have to replace the loops with more powerful ones or add a third loop to the two. If the screws are loosened, this is eliminated quite simply: unscrew the screws, pour glue into the hole and screw the screws back. The trick is that after about a day, the fasteners need to be tightened at least another half a turn.
Door frame deformation phenomenon
While using the door, the box can also sag and prevent the door from fully closing. The reasons why the door frame may sag may be the following: errors in its installation, exposure to moisture, a door that is too heavy and the influence of time. However, in order to accurately determine the cause of the deformation of the box, it is necessary to remove the trim and examine the condition of the box, the integrity of the mounting foam, and the presence of rigidity in the location of the box in the opening.
To assess the condition of the door frame, you need to remove the trim
Let's start from the end. If the box in the opening is loosened, it is necessary to unscrew the bolts securing it in the opening, again pour glue into the bolt seats and screw them (bolts) into place. In the case when the hinges hold the box well, but it still dangles, you will have to remove the mounting foam, level the box again with wooden pegs and close the gaps again with mounting foam. This whole process is done either on a separate section of the doorway, or completely in the entire opening.
Curvature of the door leaf
Wooden door leafs are very sensitive to moisture and moisture and temperature. As a result, the wood fibers swell and the geometry of the door changes, that is, the dimensions of the leaf increase. The door may not fit well into the box because it is swollen in the open state or not open because it has suffered in the closed position.
Door leaf swelling
What do we have to do? First of all, restore the normal climate in the room: eliminate high humidity by airing, restore normal temperature. In theory, the doors should take their former form and work well.
It happens that at the door, consisting of panels, one or two panels increase in size. In this case, it is necessary to involve intelligent carpenters or take the door leaf to the carpentry workshop.
All of the above applies to doors made of wood. Although some points can be applied to doors .
Swelling of doors in the summer, when humidity rises significantly, is a natural process. And based on this, when installing in winter, when due to the operation of heating radiators, the air is much drier, a gap of about 4 mm is left between the door and the frame around the entire perimeter.
In your case, the gap turned out to be too small, there are several options for fixing it, depending on what you have with the door or frame and what experience you have with wood.
1. We need to see if the box has been opened? This happens quite often. To do this, it is necessary to measure its width at different heights, and especially in the place where the grazing occurs.
If you drove the box, then it's a little easier.
We determine with the help of a flat metal corner or level where the place of protrusion is located. This can also be seen on the door, but here you can not see from which side it happens, from the side of the hinges or the handle.
The best measurement result will, of course, be given by a metal level, but it is unlikely that you have such a measuring device lying around on the farm; instead, pick up some kind of even bar or rail.
The place of protrusion will be felt immediately. There will be a bump on which your block or level will roll.
Carefully remove the trim from the side of the box where the bulge occurred, from the outside and inside.
Then we take a hacksaw, preferably with not too coarse teeth and parallel to the box to the full height, or only at the point of protrusion, we cut through the foam. On both sides of the doorway. This cut is best done right on the box. Do not forget about the fixing dowels, they must be bypassed, but also give a gap between the foam and the box. After that, tighten the door frame fasteners with a screwdriver, and so tighten for several days until the tree takes the desired bend and selects a new gap above the foam. In other words, gradually press the box to the opening. The result will start to appear immediately.
2.1. Another case is if the box is even, but the door is swollen. Is there a question? What is your door. If this is a simple wooden paneled door, covered with tinting and varnish, then the problem is solved somewhat easier.
The easiest option. Remove the lock and grind the end of the door with sandpaper on a bar. Be sure to attach sandpaper to a bar, plank, in order to grind off an even layer. Periodically check the door for rubbing. As soon as it stops touching, stop grinding, the door will no longer swell, and you don’t need an extra gap.
Now let's try to put a lock. It may already act a little, because we removed some kind of layer. Check if the lock does not touch the box, then it can be set freely, if it still touches, then you need to take a chisel and carefully deepen its seat. For handles, as a rule, installation gaps are sufficient, but these holes in the door can also be corrected.
And now we select the tinting composition and cover the treated end of the door with it, then we go through the varnish.
2.2 If your doors are expensive and you cannot find such a tint or stain, although you can pick it up. We grind the door from the side of the hinges. To do this, we remove it, and then we also deepen the places under the hinges, tint and varnish.
In any case, this option gives a gap and, most importantly, the results of working with the door are practically invisible. Even if you make any mistakes, they will not spoil the door, because this side of the door sits on hinges and is almost invisible.
Publication date: 01/04/2014
After you have installed the door in the opening, you need to adjust it. And of course, you need to do this before filling the gap between the box and the doorway with mounting foam. First of all, you need to check the location of the box by level (whether it is skewed somewhere). To do this, close the door and check the gaps between the canvas and the box around the entire perimeter, all the joints of the door and the box - everything should be even. If it was not possible to initially establish any defects, then we proceed to a more thorough check.
To properly adjust the newly installed interior door, we check it for the following faults and installation defects:
- Door won't close- if the door cannot be closed, or a significant effort is applied, then there can be three problems:
- Skewed box when closing the door - occurs when you start to close the door, the box warps. To correct it, it is necessary to check whether all box beams are fastened together correctly (the angle between two connected beams must be strictly 90 degrees). If this is not the case, you will have to remove the box, find out and eliminate the unevenness of the gash and carefully fix the beams with two screws on each side of the four corners of the box (if the door is without a threshold, then there will be two corners, respectively). And if the connection is not strong enough, you need to add another self-tapping screw in the middle, on the other side of the corner.
- Incorrectly (not flush with the surface or one edge is recessed more than the other) the groove for the hinges is selected either on the door or the frame, or on both together. Because of this, the door is askew in the box. First, check and properly tighten the missing / under-tightened screws. If it does not help, remove the hinges and deepen the necessary grooves, or, conversely, put something under the hinges. It is necessary to ensure that all the loops (“moms”, “dads”) are cut evenly.
- When installing the hinges, you set the hinge halves too far away from the edge of the boxed beam or door (need to be fixed so that the mark shown in the figure is flush with the edge of the door / frame). And if there is a sealing tape in the box, then the depth of the loops should be even less. Correct this by moving the hinges where necessary and fastening them properly.
- The gap between the canvas and the box is not uniform happens due to:
- Incorrectly cut/trimmed box bars. The inside corners of the box must be strictly 90 degrees. Even 2 extra millimeters in one of the bars when connected can give a different angle and, as a result, a significant difference in the gap. The same applies to the uneven connection of the bars.
- Irregular door. Yes, doors quite often from the factory have a difference in size along the edges, that is, an uneven rectangle. It is eliminated either by fitting the box to the size of the door, or, if possible, by fine-tuning the door leaf to even dimensions (with a planer, file, sandpaper).
- Incorrect installation of the box. When fixing the box in the opening, excessive force was applied to one of the fasteners. As a rule, this applies to the loop bar. For example, if you overtighten the bottom fastener of the hinge bar a little, then the door in the frame will warp, which will cause an uneven gap. Eliminated by exposure to a long level, which can identify both the general position of the bar, and the presence of any concave / convex parts of the bar.
- A half-open door spontaneously opens or, conversely, closes- this is the problem of the verticality of the box. If the door itself opens - the top of the box is tilted, if it closes - the bottom of the box. It is corrected by placing the box strictly vertically in two planes (so that the box does not fall forward or backward and neither to the right nor to the left side) and fixing it in this position. To do this, use the building level or plumb. Align the hinge bar of the box, it depends on its correct alignment and fastening (when fastening with fasteners, make sure that both hinges are in the same vertical plane and it doesn’t turn out that one hinge is recessed or extended more) depends on whether your door will spontaneously open / close. The level in this work, of course, is preferable to a plumb line, and the longer it is, the better and easier it is to identify irregularities and distortions of the box (hinged and other bars). If you have a short level, you can attach it to the rule or a long straight rail. Most often, it is not necessary to straighten the entire box, but only the hinged timber.
We can say with confidence that the process of adjusting the door block due to improper installation is a very tedious and long task, therefore, when assembling / installing the box, inserting the hinges, do not rush and do the work carefully and accurately,
First you need to determine whether the door fits tightly into the box. If it has to be closed with force, it is necessary to trim the sides of the door to the bevel. In most cases, this is enough for the door, when closed, to easily enter the box.
The hinge of the majority of types of doors is made on loops familiar to all - pig-iron or iron. The more massive and heavier the hinges, the more likely it is that your new door will creak, as well as spontaneously open or close.
To repair doors, you will need: screws with sharp threads and a countersunk head (Fig. 66), ground chisel and planer, nails and a hammer.
Rice. 66. Screws of various types: a - with sharp threads; b - with a blunt thread From time to time and improper operation, door frames often stick out and crack. Screws will gradually start to come out of their sockets, especially if they are driven into damp wood or have incorrect threads.
Quite often, doors sink due to abrasion of the hinge cards - this is the result of using weak hinges, which, under the influence of the excessive weight of the door, gradually change their shape. The sash begins to walk with difficulty, and during its movement you will hear clicks and rattles, indicating that the door will soon settle. Such a door has to be removed and the deformed hinges knocked out with a hammer, after which gaskets in the form of a ring of copper or brass wire should be placed between the cards.
Countersunk screws are mainly used for fastening hinges, mortise locks and other functional and decorative details. The thread on the screws used in the assembly and repair of doors must be sharp. It reliably cuts into the wood, cuts its fibers, thereby firmly fixing the part. But any thread will be useless if you wrap the screw into the end of the wooden beam along the fibers.
Hinges come in various sizes and modifications - from miniature furniture hinges to cast gate hinges, and they consist of two or more cards, inside of which there is a hinge. Hinges should be selected in accordance with the dimensions of the door and the thickness of the bars. The hinges are cut to the thickness of the card along the plane of the door frame (Fig. 67).
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Rice. 67. Putting loops in place (cutting)
wet weather often begins to swell the wood from which the door frame or the door itself is made. As a result, the mounting screws begin to come out of their sockets. They can be tightened, but the door should not be attached, because after the wood dries, a gap will appear between it and the box.
Screws that do not sit well in their nests should be replaced with the same, but slightly longer ones. It is impossible to screw in screws whose diameter is larger than that of the previous ones, as they can irreparably split the wood.
In this case, you will have only one way out: to make a gap between the wall and the box in the area of \u200b\u200bthe loops where the wood was split, and insert a piece of hard board there.
The hinges are screwed to it with longer screws directly through the door frame. For this purpose, it is better to use birch, maple or oak - they have high hardness and hold the screw tip firmly.
One of the common defects of old exterior doors (or poorly reinforced new ones) is a loose frame. In this case, it must be strengthened.
First of all, you need to install the box so that its corresponding parts are aligned vertically and horizontally. This is done using wedges that are hammered between the wall and the box, temporarily securing the latter in the opening.
Then, on each side, the box is fixed in three places: in one at a level of 1 m from the floor, in the rest - at a distance of 30-40 cm from the top and bottom of the box. To do this, a hole of at least 5 cm is drilled in the wall and wooden corks are hammered into them, after which a box is installed and nailed to the corks with thick nails. In this case, the nail heads should be recessed into the wood by 2-3 mm.
The door frame should fit snugly into the opening. If there is space between it and the ends of the wall, the box will hang only on nails, which will quickly loosen. So the space needs to be filled. To do this, slats are driven into the slots, pre-fitted in thickness, after which the remaining flaws are covered with a solution. You can also fill the space with a quick-hardening mortar - gypsum or gypsum cement. When the solution dries, the platbands are fixed.
If the door creaks, lift it up a little with the handle of a hammer, an ax or a crowbar, and grease the hinges with machine oil or lard, or put a small piece of graphite from a pencil in the slot of the raised hinge. Graphite will be ground into powder and will serve as an excellent lubricant for a long time. In addition, it retains its qualities even in the most severe frost.
After that, open and close the door several times until the lubricant is distributed along the axes of the hinges. Then lower the door to its normal position.
If the door jams, it is necessary first of all to check whether it closes well. If the door only touches the floor, it is enough to raise it by 1-2 mm by putting metal washers on the hinge axis. In the absence of such, it is possible to replace them with hard alloy wire, winding it on a metal rod with a diameter equal to the diameter of the loop. In this case, the door must be removed from the hinges, the hinges must be lubricated and, after installing the washer or wire, put it back in place.
A slight jamming of the door in the jamb can be eliminated by treating the rubbing surfaces with laundry soap. If this is not enough, you will have to remove the door from the hinges and process the ends with a planer.
If the door touches the floor, stick a large skin on a thin board and place it under the door. With several movements of the door, try to cut off its lower part. If this does not help, remove the door from the hinges, and trim the place that touches the floor.
If the door has dropped, it is usually the fault of the weak fastening of the hinges. To eliminate this drawback, it is enough to properly tighten the screws.
A swollen door (this usually happens in wet rooms), as well as the floor, can be slightly trimmed. This, however, should be done very carefully so that there are no large gaps after the room has dried.
If the door jams at the bottom or top of the side jamb, the cause is the old jamb itself. You need to hit it several times through a wooden block with a hammer or a heavy mallet.
If the door does not close tightly, which can cause drafts, one very thin rail must be fixed along its edge, pre-sanded with sandpaper and painted to match the color of the door.
If the door is constantly opened, you can nail a sealing piece of leather to the jamb. True, it wears out rather quickly, but in this case its surface can be covered with a layer of paint, and the door will close tightly again.