Ceiling from pvc panels step. Do-it-yourself installation of a ceiling made of plastic pvc panels

You can use different materials to finish the ceiling, but PVC panels are the most practical, affordable and easy to install.

Any home craftsman can make a ceiling from PVC panels with his own hands, for this you need to purchase or rent the necessary tools, study the installation sequence and the recommendations of specialists.

In order to independently, you first need to correctly calculate their number and the required length, figure out how the installation of the supporting structure and the panels themselves is carried out, after which you can begin to work.

Before starting to calculate the amount of materials needed, you need to decide which PVC panels you will use, since they have different sizes. pay attention to the fact that the panels are ceiling, and not. Since they are not subjected to serious loads on the ceiling, their strength will be less, respectively, and the cost will be lower.

The standard dimensions of the ceiling panels will be as follows:

• thickness within 3-5 mm;
• width from 125 to 350 mm;
• length is usually from 2.7 m to 6 and even 10 m.

Ceiling in the bathroom

Of great importance is such a parameter as the width of the material. If you veneer, there will be fewer seams, so the surface will look more solid. Narrow panels have their advantages: they are much easier to work with, but they produce a large number of seams. Experts recommend using medium-width material for finishing the ceiling, so it should be 250 mm.

When you decide on the length and width of the panels, be sure to pay attention to the quality of their workmanship. When choosing a material, pay attention to the following characteristics:

• it is necessary to observe the geometry of the products, and their surface must be even and smooth;
• if there is a drawing, then it should be applied clearly and evenly;
• stiffeners should not shine through on the front side;
• compare several types of panels, the more stiffeners they have, the stronger the structure will be;
• pay attention to such characteristics as the thickness of the stiffeners and outer walls;
• try to connect two parts, docking should be easy, and the gap should be minimal, almost imperceptible;
• check the material for bending, it should not crack and change its shape.

Calculation of the number of panels for the ceiling

To calculate the number of PVC panels, you first need to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in which the ceiling will be finished. To determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, multiply its length by its width. On the packaging of PVC panels, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone element must be indicated. It remains for you to divide the resulting ceiling area by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone element, and you get the number of panels needed.

When determining the number of panels, a fractional number is usually obtained, it is rounded up, 15-20% is added, which will be spent on cuts, and the number of panels that you need to purchase is obtained. It is necessary to focus on the length and width of the room, decide how the panels will be installed, along or across, and in accordance with this, choose the required length of the elements.

Ceiling with LED lights

In addition to the required number of PVC panels, the number of metal profiles used for the crate is calculated. To do this, make a diagram of the room on paper and draw parallel lines along the wall at a distance of 0.6 mm from each other. Carry out the calculation and get the required length of the profiles.

The standard length of a galvanized profile is 3 m, so the resulting length is divided by 3 and the number of profiles is obtained. If the area of ​​​​the room is more than 6 m 2, then transverse strips are also installed, the number of which is calculated separately, in accordance with the scheme for their installation.

Ceiling finish option

A more rigid profile is installed on the walls along the perimeter; to determine its quantity, it is necessary to calculate the perimeter of the ceiling. The calculation is carried out for dowels for fastening profiles to the ceiling and self-tapping screws, with which PVC panels are attached to the crate. For every 50 cm of a profile or panel, one dowel or self-tapping screw is required.

To determine the length of the ceiling plinth, you need to divide the resulting room perimeter by 3 (the length of the plinth), round up to a larger integer, and you will get the required number of elements.

Instead of a galvanized profile and self-tapping screws, when creating a crate in a room with normal humidity, you can use wooden elements and staples.

PVC ceiling installation

Regardless of the material used to create the frame, the markup is done in the same way. Usually the distance between the profiles is 60 cm, marks are made on the ceiling across the direction of laying the panels on opposite sides, and markings are applied using a chopping cord.

Ceiling installation

If the frame is attached not to the surface of the ceiling, but on suspensions, then the line marked on the walls around the perimeter of the room is lowered to the required distance. In addition, on broken lines for profiles, every 50-70 cm marks are made for attaching suspensions.

Support structure device

If the PVC ceiling is lowered, then at first the suspensions are fixed at the marked points, this is done with the help of dowels. At the next stage, a metal profile is attached to the wall along the perimeter of the room. First, it is installed on the marked line, then holes are made in the wall at a distance of 30-40 cm, they are made through the profile and immediately fixed with dowels.

Now the ends of the profile cut along the length are inserted into the wall profile, and it is fixed with self-tapping screws to the suspensions; for the reliability of the structure, this must be done on both sides to each suspension. After that, the ends of each element are fixed with screws.

ceiling lining

After mounting the frame, electrical wiring is carried out; for this, the corrugated pipes are attached to the suspensions, and the cable is already laid in them.

If the area of ​​​​the room is more than 6 square meters, then transverse jumpers must be installed between the longitudinal supporting profiles, which are needed to enhance the rigidity of the structure.

Ceiling cladding with PVC panels

Regardless of what material was used to create the frame, the installation of PVC panels is carried out in the same way. Keep in mind that wood is easier to work with, but metal elements are lighter and more durable.

Installation of PVC panels is carried out in the following order:

• along the perimeter of the room, a starting bar is mounted on the installed profile;
• if it is planned to install a ceiling plinth, then a special rail is installed for it;
• after that, the ceiling plinth is mounted;
• the first panel is inserted into the gap on the plinth or starting bar, which has a U-shape;
• the first element is aligned and fixed with screws or brackets to each carrier profile;
• the next panel with its spike should fit snugly into the groove of the previous one, the parts should be tightly connected so that the gap between them is minimal;
• after that, the panel is fixed, and so all subsequent elements are mounted;
• in those places where the fixtures will be installed, holes are pre-made in the panels, and during installation, the cable is output into them;
• the last panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one. If its width is large, then you have to cut it to the desired parameters;
• at the wall, the panel can be fixed with self-tapping screws through and through, since then they will be hidden under the plinth;
• it remains to install a ceiling plinth, which will close the gap between the wall and;
• installation and connection of spotlights is carried out in ready-made places.

Expert advice when finishing the ceiling with PVC panels:

• in order to prevent the reproduction of fungus and mold, the surface of the panels, as well as all wooden elements, must be treated with special means before installation;
• even if the ceiling is even, plastic panels cannot be glued to concrete, as there will be no ventilation;
• buy only high-quality material, an attempt to save money by purchasing cheap materials leads to the fact that they quickly lose their color and shape, they can release harmful substances;
• before installing the panels, be sure to make electrical wiring and check its performance;
• in rooms with high humidity, you can not make a frame of wooden elements.

Summarizing

If you decide to finish the ceiling yourself, then the best option, which has a beautiful appearance and low cost, is to use PVC panels. Installation of this material is easy, so you can cope with the work without outside help, it is enough to study the installation technology and follow all the recommendations of specialists.

Related video

Polyvinyl chloride is a material widely used in various fields of activity, it also finds its application in construction. PVC panels are made for walls and ceilings. Due to their low cost, resistance to adverse external influences and durability, such panels are well suited for finishing ceilings in the bathroom. Installation here does not require high qualifications and expensive equipment, it is enough just to familiarize yourself with the algorithm for its implementation, which will be described in this material.

Advantages and disadvantages

Prices for plastic ceiling panels

plastic ceiling panels

But there are a number of disadvantages that should also be kept in mind.

1. If the bathroom is too large, such a ceiling may look inorganic, since the panels have a limited length (3 meters).
2. Installation on a metal frame lowers the height of the ceiling by several centimeters.
3. Complex design solutions, such as a multi-level ceiling and its bends, are not feasible here.

As you can see, the disadvantages of this type of ceiling are insignificant and outweighed by its advantages.

Required inventory

To equip a PVC ceiling yourself, you will need the following set of materials.

Decorative profiles are used to give the ceiling a preferred edging, their varieties are presented in the table.

Table. Types of decorative profiles for suspended ceilings made of plastic panels.

Ceiling profile prices

ceiling profile

Execution of work

Step 1. Draw up a work plan. It is not necessary to strictly comply with all the rules for the technical design of drawings, but it is important to accurately fix all dimensions and intervals.

Reference! There is an option for decorating a PVC ceiling that does not require the creation of an iron frame. In this case, the fastening of plastic blocks will go directly to the draft ceiling. The unequivocal advantage of this method is the preservation of the same height of the room.

Fastening plastic panels to the ceiling with "liquid nails"

But such work is possible only if the draft ceiling is in very good condition, if it is perfectly even, has no roughness and fungus damage. Here, fastening will be carried out using building glue for plastic or liquid nails.

Step 2 Next, preparatory activities are carried out. If lime is crumbling from the rough ceiling, then such areas must be removed. All loose wires must be wrapped in corrugated plastic pipes, leaving them free exit only in those places where they will go into lighting fixtures. The old ceiling is treated with an antifungal solution.

Step 3 Then a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of all walls. It will indicate the height of the panels. The line should be at a certain distance from the ceiling, which depends on the planned use of the resulting empty space. If nothing will be placed there, then a five-centimeter indent is enough. If it is planned to place ventilation or massive lighting fixtures, then the distance can increase to two to three tens of centimeters.

Step 4 The line is drawn with a level. If the bathroom is already tiled, then its extreme seams can be used as a ruler.

Frame installation

Step 1. Before starting work, the tile is closed with polyethylene or cardboard.

Step 2 The start profile, that is, the UD form, is installed first. You need to apply it to the wall so that the lower border coincides with the drawn lines. Cut into pieces the length of the entire wall.

When the profile is attached to the wall, holes are drilled in it every fifty centimeters to insert dowels there, the depth of the hole is equal to the length of the dowel with a margin of 10-20 mm. There are hammered dowels and screwed with a screwdriver, the first type is more convenient to use. Before drilling a wall, it must be checked for wiring using a detector device.

Step 3. Then the CD profile is laid out. It is inserted perpendicular to the UD into its slots. There are two ways to lay these elements: along a long wall or across it. They have different aesthetic effects: if the room seems more spacious when laid along, then when laid across it looks more compact. The longitudinal structure has one disadvantage: since the profile sags between two grooves at a sufficiently large distance, it requires additional fastening to the ceiling in the form of suspended structures.

Hangers are fixed before installation of CD forms. To correctly calculate their future location, make marks on them when installing the UD, which will help you determine both the location of the hangers and the location of the CD mount.

Step 4 If a chandelier will be used for lighting, then it is necessary to draw one rail across all the others in the place where it will hang.

Chandelier prices

Panel installation

A plinth is installed along the perimeter of the wall directly under the base profile, liquid nails or glue are used for fastening. The plinth is made of the same material as the panels themselves, differing from them only in their shape. Some types of skirting boards are fixed without the help of special tools, mechanically attached to the UD panel. This includes F-shaped skirting boards.

On a note! During the arrangement of the plastic ceiling, you will probably be puzzled by the problem of creating the right angles. For the wall panel, it is not necessary to make them, since this element is still not striking. But for skirting boards that are in plain sight and represent the edging of the ceiling, the design of the corners is necessary.

The most time-consuming way is to cut them out with a miter box from standard products. But the miter box is not always at hand, and not everyone knows how to work with it. In this case, you can purchase special corner nozzles that can easily be attached to the junction of two skirting boards.

The panels are cut according to the dimensions of the wall. For convenience, you can make them a little shorter than necessary, but with a difference of no more than 5 mm. A profile strip is taken, one end of it is threaded into the groove between the UD form and the plinth and fastened there. The other end of the strip is attached in the opposite groove; to be able to thread it there, you need to slightly bend the strip, but be careful, because at this point it is easy to break. Each strip has mounting locks. The first inserted panel is fixed to the plinth with a screw. Subsequent panels are connected to each other using press washers. The latter has a half width, for which a standard panel is sawn into two parts. This panel is attached to the groove of the profile and the plinth without the use of bolts and washers.

Prices for ceiling plinth

ceiling plinth

Please note that the laying of plastic panels occurs perpendicular to the direction of the CD molds. In other words, if the CDs were stacked along the long side of the room, then the plastic panel should run across it.

Reference! In addition to parallel and perpendicular, there is also a diagonal direction of frame fastening. It requires more precise calculations for its implementation, but a rough planning guideline is a parallel direction rather than a perpendicular one.

Lighting

A place is allocated in advance for the lamps. Check the functionality and safety of all wiring. When laying plastic blocks, do not forget to remove the ends of the wires from the filled areas so that they do not become "walled" between the ceilings. You should not spare the wires, even if they are carried out with a spare length, the risk of not reaching the wire to the planned place can jeopardize the entire arrangement plan.

In the desired panels, holes are drilled to form your lighting fixture. The easiest way is to make round holes, for which it is enough to put a special nozzle on the puncher. The luminaire is mounted after the panels have been installed.

On this, the process of arranging a plastic ceiling can be considered completed. And this is another advantage of this material - it does not need any additional lining. After the completion of the main work, such a ceiling is a full-fledged element of the home interior, and the bathroom with its help can change beyond recognition.

Video - Finishing the ceiling in the bathroom with plastic panels

Plastic panels (lining) are an indispensable material for fast and high-quality ceiling cladding. It is convenient to work with them in any room, and the result obtained is not inferior to elite types of finishes.

Bathroom and kitchen, loggia and balcony - this is where you can make a ceiling of plastic panels, although in the living room and bedroom this finish also fits well into the interior.

What is good about finishing the ceiling with plastic panels and under what conditions does it work without deformation and loss of color? The answer to this question should be sought in the properties of PVC plastic, from which this material is made.

PVC is not only chemically inert, but also resistant to acids and alkalis.

High humidity for him, unlike drywall and wood, does not pose any threat. It does not absorb water and has an acceptable coefficient of thermal expansion for molded products.

Therefore, the lining of the ceiling with PVC plastic panels does not warp or deteriorate in hot and humid rooms. It is not afraid of flooding, it is easy to wash and clean with products that do not contain abrasives. The durability of this material is from 15 to 20 years. This time period fits optimally into the frequency of an average apartment renovation.

The minimum weight with a sufficiently high rigidity and ease of attachment are three more important advantages of the polymer profile used for finishing the ceiling. The availability of price parameters makes pvc panels an excellent solution for budget repairs.

Before starting the installation of a ceiling made of plastic lining, it will be useful to learn about their shortcomings:

• Loss of room height. Installation of battens and panels will require 3 to 5 cm of free space;
• Visible seams. Even in the so-called seamless lining, they are visible at close range.

Material selection

A little digression into design theory before buying will not hurt us. A universal color suitable for any interior entourage is white. It visually "raises" the ceiling. In a cramped bathroom or small kitchen, this effect will come in handy.

A wide range of plastic tinting is a great opportunity to make a beautiful false ceiling using a contrasting frame and alternating multi-colored stripes.

Comparing matte and glossy panels, it is better to give priority to gloss. It creates the illusion of depth and makes the room appear larger. But the texture patterns on such a ceiling do not look the best, as well as a primitive imitation of plastic for wood or stone.

Material density

Ceiling panels are usually called less dense panels, but for a quality finish, you need to choose the most dense material. And not because it is more reliable, but because of the lower light transmission. Through panels with thin walls, sunlight and rays from artificial lamps will break through, spoiling the view of the entire structure.

seams

If it is planned to install spotlights and other elements of engineering structures on the ceiling, it is better to stay on panels with a deep seam.

If you want to make a smooth ceiling, then you should purchase white glossy panels (seamless lining) of maximum width.

Procurement calculation

Before you start installing plastic panels on the ceiling with your own hands, you need to accurately calculate the amount of material for assembling the supporting frame and its cladding.

For dry rooms, a planed wooden lath with a section of 3x4 cm can be used as a crate. For balconies, bathrooms and kitchens, where humidity is constantly changing, a stable galvanized profile frame is needed. The best option would be a standard drywall CD and UD.

The area of ​​the ceiling is determined by multiplying the length of the room by its width. Based on this value, it is easy to calculate the required number of panels. The packaging always indicates the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone panel. Dividing the area of ​​​​the room by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe panel, we add 15% to the result obtained (waste when cutting plastic).

The total length of the UD profile, which will go to frame the frame, is purchased based on the length of the perimeter of the room (rounding the number of planks up: 5.7 = 6 pieces).

The number of CD profiles for assembling the crate is calculated based on the step of its installation (0.5-0.6 meters). Self-tapping screws for fastening the profile must be purchased with a margin, taking into account damage and loss (15-20 pieces per 1m2 of cladding).

To fix the frame on the ceiling, you will also need plastic dowels with screws.

To frame the extreme sections of the cladding adjacent to the walls, you need a ceiling plinth or an L-shaped starting profile.

All installation manipulations with the metal profile of the crate are carried out using a grinder, a screwdriver and perforators. This tool must be available, as well as a building level, tape measure and pencil.

Assembling the ceiling lining

Before sheathing the ceiling with plastic panels, it is necessary to accurately mark and correctly mount the crate.

The list of operations is as follows:

• We mark the location of the UD profile by level (the overlap is rarely even);
• We drill holes in the walls for installing profile fasteners (the distance between the fastening points is not more than 1 meter);
• We cut the UD profile to size and fasten it around the perimeter of the room, except for the side where the last plastic panel will be inserted (for ease of fitting).
• Every 0.5 meters, a CD profile is inserted into the UD profile (it must be cut off 5 mm shorter than the distance between the walls!) And fixed with self-tapping screws.

Important note: before installing the profile, all ceiling communications (wiring, alarm, internet, telephone) must be laid.

Panel fixing

It is not difficult to mount pvc panels on the ceiling, but important nuances should be remembered:

• You need to cut the panels one at a time, precisely fitting them to the installation site (the width of the ceiling is never the same). The first panel is inserted into the starting L-profile. Each new panel is connected to the previously installed one, after which it is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
• The installation of the last panel should be carried out with particular care. Having cut it to size, it is inserted into the groove of the adjacent one and connected to the L-profile, fixing it with plastic glue. When framed with a ceiling plinth, the installation technology of the finishing panel is simpler. It is simply fastened with self-tapping screws to the UD - profile, and the junction is closed with a plinth strip.

Holes for the installation of spotlights are easiest to cut with a clerical knife. Remember that more space is required for mounting lighting fixtures. Therefore, the distance from the ceiling to the outer side of the panel should be at least 6-8 centimeters.

The quality of the plastic lining material is easy to check. To do this, it is enough to squeeze its end cut in your fingers. If the panel is very wrinkled or cracked at the same time, it is better to refuse the purchase. High-quality bulk plastic after compression only slightly reduces its thickness and restores it after the load is removed.

Traditional whitewashed ceilings are a thing of the past. Today, thanks to modern technology, many new finishing materials have appeared that decorate the ceiling surface, make it strong, durable and unpretentious in maintenance. One of these coatings is the ceiling of plastic panels. The design is quickly and easily mounted, allows you to hide communications, base defects and is suitable for installing built-in lighting. From our article you will learn how to make a ceiling from plastic panels.

There is an opinion that finishing the ceiling with plastic panels is harmful to health, because the material releases toxic compounds.

The following facts will help disprove this myth:

1. Plastic ceilings are made from the same PVC as medical syringes. This material is also used for food packaging.
2. Pathogenic microorganisms, in particular fungi, settle in some types of finishes, which undermine the health of children and people with weakened immune systems. However, this does not apply to plastic, because mold and bacteria do not settle in the dense non-porous structure of PVC.
3. The installation of PVC trim is allowed in medical institutions. This is due to the possibility of washing the material with various detergents, including those containing chlorine.

The opinion that the installation of a plastic ceiling is unhealthy appeared due to the flammability of the finish and low vapor permeability. However, if we compare the combustibility of plastic with wood, then the latter material ignites at a temperature of 250 ° C, while PVC ignites only starting from 360 ° C. Smoke from plastic is two times less than from wood.

Important! The only harm that PVC can cause to a person is the toxic substances that are released during the combustion of the material.

As for the low vapor permeability of the surface, the installation of ventilation grilles easily solves the problem. It is especially important to mount diffusers in houses with wooden floors and in rooms with high humidity.

Scope of plastic ceilings

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling is carried out in such rooms:

• bathrooms, lavatories, swimming pools, washing rooms of baths and saunas;
• closed verandas, glazed balconies and loggias (plastic can be mounted even in places without heating);
• dining and ordinary kitchens;
• hallways;
• corridors;
• storage rooms.

Plastic trim is practically not used in bedrooms, living rooms and children's rooms due to the fact that this cladding option is not suitable for rooms with such a purpose, because the moisture resistance of the material and the possibility of washing it are not important here.

Such an extensive scope of PVC coatings is associated with an acceptable price of finishing. The cheapest are white plastic panels. Their cost is approximately $0.2 per item. The price of PVC ceiling panels with color coating, embossed surface or pattern is about $2-3 per piece.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of this finishing material include the following:

1. Thanks to absolute moisture resistance, the panels can be washed and cleaned. They do not deteriorate from direct contact with water and exposure to high humidity.
2. Plastic does not infect mold and other microorganisms.
3. The material does not absorb odors and pollution.
4. Installation of a PVC ceiling can be done independently in one day.
5. The coating has all the advantages of suspended ceilings. It hides irregularities and defects in the base, quickly levels the surface. Engineering communications can be laid behind the finish. Before installation, the base ceiling does not need to be leveled and prepared.
6. After flooding from above, the finish will not suffer at all. It is enough to dry it and wipe it and you can use it further.
7. Behind the hinged structure, heat-insulating materials are laid, which increase the sound insulation of the room and protect against heat loss.
8. Plastic does not require special care and will last with the preservation of all characteristics for more than 10 years.
9. One of the main advantages is the low price of products.
10. PVC panels can be used to create multi-level ceilings.

Cons of plastic ceiling trim:

• lowering the height of the room by at least 50 mm;
• unattractive appearance of budget panels (this does not apply to more expensive plates with a decorative coating, relief and patterns);
• low-quality panels do not fit well, forming visible seams and cracks;
• over time, the plastic may turn yellow and change its color;
• the surface fades in the sun.

Technology for mounting plastic panels

Do-it-yourself ceiling decoration with PVC panels is carried out on a wooden or metal frame.

For work you will need the following materials:

• metal profiles or wooden bars for the manufacture of a supporting frame (you need PN and PP profiles or a bar with a section of 40x20 mm);
• plastic panels;
• PVC skirting boards with grooves for finishing or starting guides;
• staples or self-tapping screws for metal (brackets are needed to fasten the plates to a wooden crate, and self-tapping screws will be needed to fix the finish on a metal frame);
• dowels and screws;
• perforated suspensions (you can do without them if the base is even and there are no engineering communications behind the ceiling).

Of the tools you will need the following:

• drill and perforator;
• clerical knife for cutting plates;
• screwdriver;
• building or laser level;
• paint cord;
• tape measure, pencil and ruler;
• hammer;
• construction stapler;
• miter box for cutting skirting boards at an angle.

Foundation preparation

Although the base surface does not need special preparation when installing suspension systems, small preparatory work needs to be done. If the old coating does not adhere well to the base, then it is advisable to remove it. The ceiling with traces of mold is cleaned and treated with antiseptic compounds.

Important! At the preparatory stage, engineering communications are being laid.

The marking of walls and ceiling is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Determine the drop height of the new ceiling surface. If the installation of the crate is carried out directly on the base without the use of suspensions, then the ceiling will drop by the height of the frame plus the thickness of the finishing layer. Usually this value is 5 cm. Otherwise, the dimensions of the communications being laid, the unevenness of the base surface and the dimensions of the recessed fixtures are taken into account.
2. From the lowest angle, lay down the resulting distance.
3. We transfer the mark to the remaining corners using a laser tool.
4. After that, we connect all the marks with longitudinal lines on the walls. It is convenient to work using a paint cord.

Frame installation

After carrying out the preparatory work, proceed to the assembly of the frame. It is quite easy to assemble a crate of wooden slats. It is necessary to fix the main beam according to the markings on the wall, and attach the longitudinal bars to it with their ends. In the middle part they are fixed on suspensions to the base ceiling.

The assembly of the metal frame goes like this:

• We cut the supporting NP profile along the length of the wall surface and drill holes in it in increments of 50 cm.
• After that, we apply the element to the wall along the drawn line and transfer the markings of the holes. We drill holes in the wall with a puncher. We fix the profile on the wall with self-tapping screws and dowels.
• PP profiles are cut to the width of the room. At the same time, please note that the PVC board trim will be attached perpendicular to the profiles.
• We insert the ceiling metal elements with their ends into the groove of the NP profile on the wall. We set the PP rails in increments of 400 mm.
• In a room with a width of more than 1500 mm, we fix the shelf elements in the central part on suspensions to the base ceiling. Hangers installed in 1.2 m increments are fixed on the base with a pair of dowel-nails. We fasten PP profiles to NP elements and hangers with metal screws. The perforated ears of the suspension, which protrude beyond the rail, are bent up so that they do not interfere with mounting the panels.

Installation of skirting boards

Before attaching plastic panels to the ceiling, you need to install PVC ceiling plinths, which have a special groove for the finishing material. Instead of skirting boards, you can use the starting bar. We fasten these PVC elements with brackets or self-tapping screws to the supporting frame element, installed along the perimeter of the room on the wall. We shoot the fastener or twist it into the upper shelf of the PVC product.

Advice! In a small room, the starter bar or plinth can be attached to the wall and used instead of the perimeter batten. Depending on the material and wall decoration, these elements are glued with liquid nails or screwed onto self-tapping screws and dowels.

Panel fixing

Fastening of plastic plates is carried out in the following order:

• Products are cut along the length of the room. Installation is carried out with a spike away from you. The end of the panel is inserted into the groove of the PVC plinth. The element is slightly bent and the second end is inserted into the plinth groove on the opposite wall. The spike of the longitudinal side is inserted completely into the plastic baguette on the adjacent wall.
• A self-tapping screw is screwed into the top shelf of the panel or a bracket is shot. Moreover, this must be done in the place where the shelf is located under the frame profile. Fasteners must flash the shelf and enter the crate.
• The next slab is inserted into the skirting boards with its ends, and with a spike into the gap between the shelves of the previous PVC product and is attached to the frame.
• The last plate is cut to width. The cut side is inserted into the groove of the plinth or starting profile. Then the spike is inserted into the groove of the previously installed plate, slightly pushing the panel out of the plinth. We also insert the ends into the starting profiles or skirting boards on opposite walls.
• We cut holes for lighting fixtures during installation, and we install and connect them after assembling the entire ceiling.

Recommendations for choosing a PVC coating

Experts and designers recommend purchasing panels with a light glossy surface for ceilings in low small rooms. So the room becomes more spacious and higher. You can use two colors of panels from the same manufacturer. It is not recommended to use more colors so that the ceiling does not seem colorful. With the help of a two-color coating, you can zone the room.
Do-it-yourself PVC panel ceiling, video instruction:

Usually, seamless panels are used, which are joined so that the seam between the elements is practically invisible. In this case, the coating is smooth and even. When choosing seamless slabs, give preference to products from a trusted manufacturer, because cheap slabs do not fit together accurately, forming gaps.

Until recently, plastic for filing the ceiling was used mainly in the budgetary repair of Soviet-built apartments. According to the established tradition, these were an entrance hall, a corridor, a toilet, a bathroom, a kitchen, a balcony or a loggia. This was facilitated by the low price of the finishing material and easy maintenance - soot and grease were easily washed with soapy water without streaks. Unpleasant odors and the simple design of plastic panels made such a ceiling inappropriate in living rooms: bedroom, nursery and living room.

Everything has changed with the advent of new types of PVC finishing materials. Various colors, textures and sizes of panels, allowing you to create an interesting design of the upper part of the apartment, the ability to assemble a two-level ceiling and combine plastic trim with plasterboard, decorative plaster and stretch fabrics, the absence of smell, ease of maintenance made PVC panels in demand for people with an average income .

Plastic began to finish the ceilings in all rooms. The growing popularity of PVC did not pass by the owners of wooden houses - they increasingly began to sheathe their ceilings with polyvinyl chloride.

Advantages and disadvantages of a PVC panel ceiling

The growing popularity of plastic ceilings is primarily due to their low cost and ease of installation. At the same time, this type of ceiling space decoration has other advantages:

• suspended structure allows you to hide all the flaws of the ceiling: lack of horizontal, visible joints of floor slabs, concrete peeling, microcracks, chips, sinks, etc.;
• communications can be hidden under the crate;
• the presence of free space between the ceiling and floor slabs allows for additional insulation of the room and protection from the noise of neighbors from above;
• it becomes possible to install spot lighting;
• ease of construction, which allows the use of "economy" profiles;
• no expensive finishing of the front side is required, unlike drywall;
• panels are easy to clean from dust, soot and volatile fats with detergents, after which they completely restore decorative qualities and colors;
• the material is resistant to changes in temperature and high humidity, is not afraid of domestic rodents and various small pests, which allows it to be used in damp and unheated rooms (dachas);
• non-destructive dismantling - the ceiling is disassembled and reassembled either in another room or in the same one, but after additional work;
• the possibility of installing such a false ceiling yourself;
• durability - service life with proper care is at least 15 years;
• renovation of the finish is carried out only by replacing the panels - the new sheathing is carried out on the old frame;
• environmental friendliness of materials - the panels are made from the same material as disposable syringes.

There are plastic ceilings and disadvantages associated with the peculiarity of the finishing material:

• fragile - holes appear at the site of a small point impact (they can also be damaged by accidentally pressing a finger);
• under the influence of high temperatures, a lot of acrid smoke is released, which is harmful to humans;
• preservation of a specific smell for several weeks after installation;
• turn yellow (cloudy) under the influence of direct sunlight;
• melt when installing powerful lamps;
• limited design - without involving other types of finishing material, it is problematic to create something stylish and beautiful;
• the presence of visible connecting seams, but this drawback is rather relative, because there were ideas for turning seams into decorative elements.

Features of PVC ceiling panels

Plastic ceilings are of a suspended type with a rigid frame, where polyvinyl chloride is attached to wooden slats or a metal profile. Polyvinyl chloride panels consist of two thin plates interconnected at a distance of 5-10 mm from each other by stiffening ribs.

Mounting method:

• with a visible seam;
• seamless.

By panel size PVC can be:

• length - 270 cm, 300 cm, 400 cm, 600 cm;
• width - 10 cm, 20 cm, 25 cm;
• thickness - 10 mm.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling begins with the purchase of finishing material. Here it is necessary to pay attention to quality and design. A quality product must have:

• smooth, without wave edges, which will allow for quick and high-quality assembly;
• smooth surface, without protruding ribs;
• the correct geometric shape (without twisting around the longitudinal axis);
• uniform coloring, with smooth color transitions;
• intact condition: no cracks or chips even on the back.

The quality is also checked by a practical method: several times strongly squeeze the corner of the panel with your fingers. Bad material will break, good material will be slightly deformed. You should not save on the thickness of the plates (all PVC panels have a thickness of 10 mm, but they can have front and back plates of different thicknesses) - you should refuse to buy thin ones.

Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels should not be based on the personal preferences of the master or the owners when choosing a design. Here are some basic principles to follow:

• The light color of the panels will visually expand the space;
• The glossy surface creates the illusion of a distant ceiling;
• There should not be more than 3 colors in a room, including the floor, walls and ceiling. Black and white colors are not taken into account, they are neutral (does not apply to drawings and images printed on the ceiling);
• When the panels are monochrome, there should not be more than 2 colors at the top, including white;
• Visible seams should be avoided unless they are decorative.

It affects the consumer properties of the ceiling and the choice of the panel manufacturer - there are many of them on the Russian building materials market. Among the best:

• Venta (Belgium). It produces PVC panels of various sizes and designs, including those with drawings applied by modern digital printing machines. Products of the upper price segment.
• Forte (Italy). On the market since 1969. High quality products with a huge number of colors and shades, allowing you to create an interesting design in any room of the apartment. The cost of the panels corresponds to the quality - high.
• LLC "Planet Plastic" (Russia, Moscow). Works on foreign equipment and fully imported raw materials. The product range includes more than 150 options for finishing panels.
• AnV-plast LLC (Russia, Krasnodar). A young but rapidly growing company. Works entirely on domestic raw materials. Beats the competition with a rich selection of panels in both size and design, as well as a lower price.

Preparatory steps for assembling a ceiling made of PVC panels

Do-it-yourself ceiling made of plastic panels is assembled in a strict sequence of work performed. First, preparatory work is underway:

• the amount of materials is calculated;
• ceiling panels, metal profiles, moldings and self-tapping screws are purchased, a set of necessary tools and fixtures is completed;
• the surface of the ceiling is being prepared for the installation of the frame.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

Before calculating the required amount of materials, you should decide on the direction of laying the panels. Here the rule applies: the connecting seams must be parallel to the flow of light, i.e. perpendicular to the window. However, if the distance between the wall with the window and the opposite wall is more than 6 m, you will have to choose between an additional joint between the panels along the length and mounting the PVC parallel to the window. Many choose the second option.

The method for calculating the number of panels differs from the generally accepted scheme for calculating a material that covers any surface. The option when the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling is determined, and then based on this indicator, the amount of material required is not suitable. In our case, the length of the wall is measured first, parallel to which the panels will be laid.

The result is rounded up to a whole number to know how long the panel needs to be purchased. Then the length of the adjacent wall is found, which is divided by the width of the panels planned for installation. The result is multiplied by 1.1 to compensate for unexpected material losses during installation. When buying PVC, one more thing must be taken into account: there are always 6 panels in the package, regardless of their size.

To demonstrate what has been said, we will carry out all the calculations for a real room. Initial data:

• the length of the wall with a window (we denote the wall with the symbol A, the opposite - A1) - 3.8 m;
• the length of the adjoining wall (B) and the opposite wall (B1) - 5.6 m;
• panel width - 0.25 m.

Thanks to simple calculations, we determine the number of panels: 3.8 / 0.25 x 1.1 / 6 = 2.7(3 packs of 6-meter panels).

The number of guide profile (PN) is determined by the formula: H \u003d L x 2 / 3, where:

• H is the number of profiles, pcs.;
• L is the length of the wall B, m;
• 2 - the number of walls;
• 3 - standard length of the guide profile, m.

Let's plug in the numbers: 5.6 m x 2 / 3 m = 3.7. The result is rounded up to the next whole number. Thus, it is necessary to buy 4 PN profiles.

The number of ceiling profile (PS) is calculated as follows: K = L / C x M, where:

• K is the length of the ceiling profile in m;
• L is the length of the wall B;
• C - step length between the ceiling profile, m;
• M is the length of wall A, m.

We calculate the number of PS profile: 5.6 m / 0.4 m x 3.8 m = 53.2 m. In order not to connect the profiles along the length, you need to buy 4-meter ones - 14 pieces will be required for work. (53.2/4).

For reference: a profile with a length of 2.5 m, 3.0 m, 3.5 m, 4 m is offered for sale.

The number of ceiling plinth (moldings) is calculated simply: S - equal to the perimeter of the walls (5.6 m x 2 + 3.8 m x 2).

Necessary materials and tools

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling will require the purchase of the following materials:

• polyvinyl chloride panels - 3 packs;
• plastic moldings (plinth, baguette);
• PN profile (guide) 25x25x3000 (economy) - 4 pcs.;
• PS profile (ceiling) 60x25x3000 (economy) - 14 pcs.;
• direct suspension;
• dowel-nails 6 × 60;
• self-tapping screws "bug";
• self-tapping screws with a press washer;
• liquid nails;
• electrical wires;
• lamps.

In order not to be distracted during the search for the necessary tools, you should prepare in advance:

• ladder or scaffolding (popular name "goats");
• perforator with nozzles;
• screwdriver;
• "Bulgarian" (if necessary, replace a hacksaw with a blade for metal);
• laser or hydraulic level;
• roulette;
• building corner (90 degrees);
• a knife with a replaceable blade;
• construction (chopping) cord.

Preparatory work

The plastic ceiling has two problems:

• at a certain angle of illumination, everything that falls on the ceiling surface from the floor panels is visible through the plastic;
• through the connecting seams leaks small debris falling from the concrete floor.

You can prevent such moments very simply - clean the ceiling with a metal brush, and then wipe it with a damp cloth. It is desirable to putty small cracks and chips.

At the end of the preparatory work, many professionals advise treating the floors with a deep penetration primer with antifungal drugs. Such an operation will prevent the appearance of mold and fungi in the corners.

Materials have been purchased, a set of tools has been prepared, the ceiling has been cleaned. It remains to learn how to make a ceiling of plastic panels with your own hands.

Installation instructions

Installation work has a step-by-step algorithm for performing technological operations:

1. a scheme for fastening the frame and fixtures (if necessary, and drivers) is drawn up;
2. the marking of the passage of the guide and ceiling profiles, the attachment points of direct suspensions and lamps is carried out;
3. a guide profile PN is attached to the wall;
4. the frame is assembled;
5. wires are bred for lighting;
6. mounted panel ceiling;
7. finishing work is being done.

Schema and markup

Many builders ignore the diagramming process and markup. In principle, without them, you can mount a plastic ceiling. It just takes a few more hours to do so. After all, thanks to a simple drawing, you can first mark on paper, and then on the walls and ceiling with an accuracy of up to a centimeter, the locations of lamps, suspensions and profiles.

Work begins by finding the lowest point of the ceiling. To do this, it is enough to measure the height of the apartment in the corners (ceilings have a flat surface, so a large number of measurements, as with a floor screed, is not required).

At the next stage, the interceiling space required for the fixtures is determined (you need to know in advance which fixtures will be installed). From the lowest point of overlap, it is necessary to descend to the distance required by the light sources and fix the future ceiling plane on the wall. With the help of a hydro or laser level, a line is drawn on the wall along the entire perimeter of the room, along which the panels will be assembled. If the correct calculation has been made, the ends of the line will match. If the discrepancy is 0.5 cm or more, the work must be redone.

The rest is simple: with the help of a tape measure, the attachment points of the ceiling profile (40 cm step), suspensions (70 cm step) and the location of the lamps are marked. The work is not difficult, but it saves a lot of time.

Profile fixing

Fastening the frame begins with the installation of a guide profile on the wall. Step by step it looks like this:

1. the metal guide is cut with a grinder or a hacksaw to the size of the walls B and B1;
2. holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the profile with a puncher - the first and last are 10-20 cm from the edge, the rest in increments of 50 cm;
3. the bar is tightly pressed against the wall with the lower part strictly along the line of the ceiling;
4. through the drilled holes on the wall, marks are made for hardware;
5. holes are drilled, dowels are driven into them;
6. the PN profile is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws so that there are no gaps.

For reference: some sources state that in case of urgent need not to lower the ceiling low, the guide panels can be fixed on the wall with liquid nails. Then the height of the apartment will decrease by only 3.1 cm. Such a technological solution can be used, but with the condition that the supporting profile is attached to the ceiling every 40 cm. Another solution to the problem is to hem plastic panels onto a wooden crate or MDF sheets.

Frame installation

The structure of the frame for suspended ceilings is considered in detail in the work "". Briefly recall the instructions:

1. direct suspensions are attached to the ceiling;
2. the PS profile is cut to size with a grinder or a hacksaw;
3. both ends are inserted into the guide profile and fastened with “bug” screws;
4. load-bearing strips are additionally attached to the ceiling with suspensions - one "bug" on each side.

Attention: it is necessary to insert the PS profile into the guide bar strictly perpendicularly.

After assembling the frame, suspensions are attached at the installation site of the fixtures.

Wiring

An important point in installing a false ceiling made of plastic panels is the wiring for lighting. It begins after the installation of the frame. There are several things to consider here:

1. When laying wiring under voltage 220 V, it must:

• have a double braid;
• hide in a plastic corrugated tube;
• do not sag (should not touch future panels);
• accurately reach the place of attachment of the lamp;
• be fixed from the frame at a distance of at least 2 cm;
• have sufficient ends to connect to lighting fixtures.

2. Wires for voltage 12-24 V at first glance are very easy to bring to each lamp. However, there are some important points here:

• The length of the wiring for LED-lamps cannot be more than 2 m - they sharply lose the power of the luminous flux. Therefore, it is necessary to provide for the installation of several drivers on the ceiling.
• If possible, connect the wires into bundles using plastic clamps.
• Avoid contact with 220 V wiring.

Panel mounting

The owner of the house can install the plastic ceiling. The only thing he needs is the installation technology and the help of one of the family members (a long panel cannot be held alone). In the instructions on how to fix plastic panels to the ceiling, any beginner in the construction business will figure it out.

1. On three walls (A, B and A1), close to the guide profile, a ceiling plinth with a groove for PVC panels is attached to the wall with liquid nails.

2. Measure the distance between walls A and A1 for the first panel with a tape measure.

Important: there are practically no right angles in the apartments. Therefore, the lengths of adjacent walls may differ by several centimeters, which requires measuring the distance between the walls for each PVC plank.

3. The panel is cut 5mm shorter on each side. Tool - hacksaw or grinder.

Attention: for panels up to 3 m long, 1 cm must be cut on each side, otherwise it will not be possible to insert it into the plinth - it will break when bent.

4. The film is removed from the panel (protection is not installed by all manufacturers), after which it is oriented so that the lock looks towards the wall, the spike outward, and the mounting plate is on top. One end is inserted into the groove of the ceiling plinth. The bar gently bends down, after which the second end of the panel is inserted into the groove.

Important: before starting work, it is necessary to carry out a preliminary layout of all panels. Such an operation is necessary in order to correctly determine the size of the last bar. If it turns out to be less than 1/3 of its width, the first panel is to be cut - 1/3 of the width is cut out.

5. We bring the plastic to a horizontal position and carefully slide it into the ceiling plinth on wall B. To make the panel easy to insert, we help with a small thin spatula. Problems may arise due to slight deformation of the panel lock. Therefore, the spatula must be worked not only from below, but also from above. Since all connecting nodes are standard, the plastic will always fit into the groove exactly.

6. The panel is attracted by self-tapping screws to the ceiling profile. The operation is simple, but not everyone knows how to fix PVC panels to the ceiling correctly. If the self-tapping screw is screwed directly into the mounting plate, the screwdriver often breaks the bit from the head of the hardware and damages the plastic. Experienced professionals screw the hardware with a press washer next to the bar. The panel is clamped not by the self-tapping screw itself, but by the edge of the washer. This technology eliminates damage to the already mounted ceiling.

For reference: some experts, in order not to damage the panel, first drill a hole, and then screw in the self-tapping screw. But it's a waste of time.

7. The next panel is mounted, up to the last bar. How to install the last panel, we will tell separately.

How to install the latest panel

Installing the last panel is the most difficult operation in the entire plastic ceiling assembly technology. There are several mounting methods. Let's consider the simplest one. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The distance from the wall to the penultimate panel is measured in different angles - it can vary by several centimeters;
2. 1 cm is subtracted from the results obtained;
3. The width of the panel is brought to the required size with a hacksaw or grinder;
4. The panel is inserted at both ends into the grooves of the plinth;
5. Using adhesive tape and a spatula, the bar snaps into the lock of the previous panel;
6. Spacers are placed between the wall and the last PVC so that the panel does not move into the groove of the baseboard - it will not work to fix its position with self-tapping screws;
7. The plinth is cut out under the spacers, smeared with glue and put between the wall and the panel, after which it is pressed against the wall. After 10 minutes, you need to press it against the wall again;
8. Excess glue is wiped off with a rag.

Finishing

At the end of the assembly of the ceiling, the last, but very important, stroke remains - beauty guidance. There are several independent operations here.

1. In this paper, we considered the option of installing PVC panels directly into the ceiling plinth with a groove for the ceiling. In this case, no additional operations are provided. If a collapsible version of the molding was used, then a baguette must be glued to the U-shaped profile. Glue (liquid nails) is applied only on one side of the plinth: from the side of the wall or profile and ceiling.

2. An inside corner is never straight. Therefore, it is impossible to perfectly fit the corner connection of the skirting boards. You can remove the gap with acrylic putty of the appropriate color.

3. For various reasons, gaps often form between the installed ceiling and the plinth (the panel is pinched inside the guide profile, sagging that is invisible to the eye has formed, etc.), which does not decorate the work done. You can eliminate the gap with an acrylic-based sealant (in a tube) inserted into a construction gun.

The sealant is pumped into the gaps in small portions, no more than 30 cm in one pass, after which the excess acrylic is removed with a narrow spatula with a sharp blade. A damp sponge removes traces of putty from the ceiling and plinth. If this is not done in a timely manner, the sealant will seize, and it will not be possible to remove it. So pass the entire perimeter of the ceiling.

4. As noted above, it is better to embed fixtures in the course of assembling the ceiling. If this work is not done in a timely manner, then holes for light sources must be made with an electric drill with a crown. In size, it should be 4 mm larger in diameter than the lamp itself. After that, the lighting fixture is connected to electrical wires and fixed to the ceiling.

Conclusion

There is nothing complicated in facing the ceiling with panels:

1. the amount of required materials is calculated;
2. everything necessary for the work is purchased: materials, fixtures and tools;
3. the ceiling is cleared of debris;
4. on the walls and ceiling, marks are made for the passage of the PN and PS profile, the installation location of suspensions and lamps;
5. the frame is mounted;
6. electrical wiring is done;
7. the ceiling is going;
8. gaps are removed with acrylic putty.

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