Finishing the facade with an unedged board outside. Facing with a front board: qualitatively and stylishly
The speed with which modern technology is developing is staggering. Just yesterday I finished the house with cutting-edge materials, and today they are completely irrelevant.
In pursuit of novelties in the construction market, you can rebuild your house at least every year. But there is something that is timeless and never goes out of fashion. I am now talking about wood, a material that was in use many centuries ago and remains so to this day.
But as it turned out, even wood can be modernized, and a modern facade board is no longer just a wooden plank nailed to the wall, but a high-tech material with high performance.
Types of facade board
So what are facade boards? It is very difficult to answer this question unambiguously. Since this is a generalized concept that includes a whole list of different facade finishes. And each option has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.
In order to understand in detail what a facade board is, let's dwell a little more on each option.
unedged wood
The cheapest option. Strictly speaking, the concept of a facade board is not entirely applicable to unedged boards. But after finishing, the house takes on a completely new, original look. Unedged boards have been used in construction for a very long time, and before such facades were simply the result of using this material. Most often, larch boards are used to finish the facade. They are more resistant to our changing climate, and are cheaper than, for example, beech or fir.
Today it is rather a tribute to style and design. Unedged board gives the house a deliberately simple look of a village hut.
Advice! when finishing the facade with an unedged board, it is necessary to carefully remove all the bark and treat the tree with antiseptic impregnations.
planken
The front planken board, from innovations has, perhaps, the name. In fact, these are just processed boards with various joint configurations. According to the type of connections, the planken can be:
- Clapboard type, that is, with a tenon-groove connection
- Rounded. In this case, the boards are installed to each other.
- Angular. In this option, the edges are sawn at an angle, and the installation is “overlapped”. This installation method prevents precipitation from getting under the facade and keeps the wind out.
Also, the planken may differ in the type of wood from which it is made. Sometimes these are exotic breeds that do not grow in our latitudes. This tree does not have any unique characteristics, but its use is very strongly reflected in the cost.
The most popular among consumers are plankens made of oak or larch. Of course, oak is stronger and more expensive, but larch boards are lighter in weight and cost. In addition, the indescribable smell of pine needles is unable to repeat any exotic tree.
By the way, most of the finishing materials are made from larch.
DPK
The facade made of WPC, or wood-polymer composite, is rightfully considered the most reliable of all facade board options. This is a relatively new material made from wood chips mixed with polymers.
A finishing material based on a wood-polymer composite has a number of significant advantages that other facade boards do not have.
- There is no need for additional processing and protection.
- The wood base completely retains the natural appearance.
- Completely insensitive to temperature changes and precipitation.
- Doesn't need regular updates.
- Fireproof and does not support combustion.
- High strength, which allows you to use such a board as a floor covering.
Of the minuses, one can single out, perhaps, a relatively high cost, but it is fully offset by the listed positive qualities. The presence of a polymer in the composition of WPC makes it possible to use this material in difficult conditions, when ordinary wood requires protective treatment or is simply not used.
Thermoboard
In fact, this is not the name of the material, but the technology of wood processing. Most often, the thermoboard is made of larch, which is processed at high temperatures. As a result of which the tree completely retains the texture, but at the same time acquires a number of qualities that were not there before.
- Increased density.
- Moisture resistance and almost complete absence of swelling and thermal expansion.
- The ability to use as a finishing material without additional treatment with protective coatings.
A thermally processed facade board can be made in any of the types listed above, except perhaps unedged. Such processing is also reflected in the final cost. The whole process is quite complicated and takes place in several stages. A gradual increase in temperature in the chamber allows you to evenly dry the wood without causing its deformation.
Then the firing phase begins. As a result, wood fibers lose their internal tension and harden. That is why the thermal board does not have thermal expansions and does not absorb moisture.
Price ratio
Decking, deck board
I want to make a reservation right away that all the prices presented are approximate rounding. Depending on the manufacturer and region, they can vary significantly. This table aims to show the approximate ratio of different materials.
Consider facade boards using the example of extra-class larch:
I intentionally did not mention the unedged board in the table, since this is not a finishing material by definition, and is sold in cubic meters.
Important! When calculating the cost of the entire facade decoration, do not forget about the components required for each option listed in the table.
Advantages of using wood for facade decoration
Probably the most important and weighty argument in favor of a tree, for many, is its environmental friendliness. Indeed, it is difficult to imagine a more natural material. Even WPC containing resistant polymers in its composition remains a tree in the first place.
Finishing with an unedged board is the most common and simple technology that, with the correct and competent approach, can decorate the facade of a residential building.
This is a simple and inexpensive building material, the characteristic feature of which is not sawn edges, which give design originality and aesthetics to the structure.
Often, equipping and decorating your home, preference is given to environmentally friendly building materials.
Therefore, cladding with a board or similar materials based on natural wood has gained popularity.
Among the positive physical properties of a tree, it should be noted:
- Beautiful view;
- Resistance to mechanical stress;
- High thermal insulation;
- Partial replacement of damaged slats;
- High strength;
- Noise isolation;
- Ease of installation and operation;
- Compatibility with other finishing building materials.
The cost of a natural product is higher than that of imitating analogues, but it is fully justified.
The modern construction market offers a wide range of wooden products, but the most popular are:
- Lining;
- Timber imitation;
- Siding panels;
- Unedged board.
Thanks to the raw edges, an amazing style of facade decoration is created with competent cleaning and processing of the material.
The careful fitting of the planks gives the impression of a completely wooden structure. It is possible to leave the edges of the planks with bark elements, which gives a stylish finish.
It is only important not to forget about the use of protective impregnating compounds and antiseptics. Impregnation with stain and subsequent application of varnish is possible. 
Previously, such material was spent on non-residential structures and for the lathing of the roof structure due to the lack of demand for aesthetic appearance.
But in recent years, an unedged board has also been used for. However, its competent processing and aesthetic location will first be required.
Among its positive characteristics are high strength and high resistance to mechanical damage, good resistance to changes in humidity and temperature extremes. 
And the low density of wood makes it possible in its easy processing, which reduces the time spent on finishing work.
A beam is used, nailed in increments of 1.5 m to the top of the unedged board and at the corners of the building.
The fit of the unedged material may not be perfect, the resulting gaps are smeared with mastic or a sealed composition. 
Advantages and disadvantages of wood:
Pros: independence from climatic zones, designs of any complexity, environmental friendliness and naturalness, simple installation that does not require special skills.
As well as the duration of operation and maintainability, the installation of additional insulation, the reconstruction of the facade without harming the fundamental foundation, an affordable price and a variety of colors and textures.
Watch a video on the topic:
Cons: combustibility without special treatment, natural components in the form of knots, resins and cracks, the frequency of updating the protective paint, fungal manifestations without antiseptic treatment.
Material dimensions
Finishing is carried out with an unedged board 16, 19, 22 and 25 mm thick, there is also a thicker one - 32-75 mm.
Specialized stores are full of a variety of choices of this material, which is explained by the frequent finishing work with its use. 
The creation and uniqueness of the play of chiaroscuro is the effect obtained thanks to the horizontal cladding. For facades, it is recommended to purchase an unedged board 30 cm wide.
Preference is given to high-density wood of northern species, which is characterized by a beautiful texture. Especially, I would like to note the selected butt forest and Siberian larch, which are without defects.
Mounting method
The straps are fastened in 2 ways: "overlapping" or close to each other. Method 2 is as complicated as it is beautiful. 
Regardless of the aesthetic appearance, the practicality of the finishing method is taken into account, first of all.
From the point of view of practicality, "overlapping" is the most suitable method of facade cladding, as it is more moisture resistant due to the installation of unedged boards over the waterproofing layer.
And the ends of the slats are joined with trimming "under the mustache" with subsequent processing of the joints with a sealed composition.
If necessary, the material is primed and mounted on top of the waterproofing. Fastening is done with the front side with the 1st nail below, but above the previous bar. 
This will preserve the integrity of the entire structure with any fluctuations in humidity.
Step-by-step overlapping technology
The boards are primed or covered with a protective layer with deep penetration compounds.
The primer is a link with adhesive and paint compositions, which helps to increase the wear resistance of the coating, reduce the aggressive effects of the environment. The walls are also primed.
Installation of a waterproofing layer of a coating type. The walls and blind areas of the building are waterproofed three times to protect against moisture penetration and the formation of microorganisms.
Applying mastic is done with a brush. If there are cracks, they are filled with the composition, and the excess is removed with a spatula. 
Drying of the waterproofing is important to avoid stickiness of the surface.
Installation of an insulating layer in the form of mineral wool, characterized by its incombustibility, moisture resistance, cold resistance.
Fastening planks vertically over the waterproofing layer with nails. Vertical unedged boards are stuffed to the wall surface, after which horizontal ones are attached from the bottom up.
The imposition of each subsequent bar on the previous one is overlapped by 20 mm.
Sealing joints with polyurethane sealants, which have high elasticity and are not subject to stretching and deformation.
Sheathing a house with an overlap board is an excellent option to decorate the facade of the house, give it a beautiful and individual appearance. At a cost, cladding a house with a board is perhaps the cheapest option for finishing exterior walls.
As for the durability of such decoration of the external walls of the house, much depends on how the board for the house cladding was processed and how well it was protected from negative various external factors.
Before you take on the sheathing of a house with an overlap board on your own, read the information on this topic, ask your friends and watch a video on the Internet on how to properly sheathe a house with a board. All this will help to avoid mistakes in the process of finishing the house with an overlap board and will allow the lined surface of the walls of the house to last as long as possible.
Sheathing a house with an overlap board - instructions
It is probably not necessary to say that the entire board for sheathing the house must be thoroughly dried and treated with antiseptics before installation. Also, in order to sheathe the house with an overlap board, you will need to assemble the frame. For its assembly, it is also better to use wood in the form of small bars in cross section.
From the tool for sheathing a house with a board you will need:
- A screwdriver, if wood screws will be used to fasten the boards.
- Wood saw.
- Hammer, nail puller and pliers.
First, the frame for mounting the boards is assembled. All work on fixing the frame is carried out according to a pre-made markup. After the frame is assembled, it is possible to cut the prepared board according to the available dimensions in order to sheathe the walls of the house with an overlap.
To do this, on each cut board, it is necessary to mark the overlap. In this case, the work on sheathing the house with an overlap board will pass quickly and without complications. Before proceeding with the sheathing of the house with a board, you will need to choose one of the available installation methods.
In total, there are several ways to sheathe a house with a board:
- Sheathing the house with a rustic board or with a bevel into a tongue;
- Sheathing with a board in semi-rustic and with a bevel in a quarter;
- Sheathing board in gluing;
- Sheathing with a board in tongue and groove and in a straight quarter.
After the markup and preparation of the boards, you can proceed to self-plating the house with an overlap. In the process of performing these works, the masters recommend adhering to the following tips.
Tip one: Do not nail the boards or screw them with self-tapping screws only from above and below. It is better to do this in a run, because in this way it will turn out better, fix the material. At the same time, during the operation of the wooden facade of the house, the board will not absorb moisture and split.
Tip two: In order to sheathe a house with an overlap board, it is better to use not galvanized nails, but ordinary steel nails. The galvanized surface of the nail is still peeled off during installation, after which such nails begin to rust very quickly. The ideal option when sheathing a house with an overlap board is the use of stainless nails, however, such fasteners have a rather high cost.
so when sheathing a house with an overlap board, it is very important to properly prepare the material, make a crate and choose from the methods of attaching the boards with an overlap, after which you can safely take on this work.
The overlap siding technology was known to our ancestors many centuries ago. True, in those days it was called much simpler - sheathing of external walls with unedged or edged boards. Currently, lumber manufacturing technologies have improved significantly, special impregnations have appeared to protect wood from pests and putrefactive processes, varnishes and paints with unique performance properties are used to finish external surfaces. The operational characteristics and appearance of the boards have been significantly improved, which makes it possible to give the facades a new look.
How overlap siding is installed (in this case, fiber cement)
Lap siding vinyl siding
If in our country, at best, ordinary edged boards were used to finish the facade walls of buildings, then in America there was a slightly different approach. For overlapping siding, lumber with a special profile was used. What are the advantages of "American"?
"American" - wooden siding
Important! Today, in the implementation, you can also find boards with a complex profile that allows you to imitate overlap siding. At the same time, the appearance is completely preserved, and the quality of the skin is significantly increased. We will talk about this technology a little later.
Traditional wood siding
The main feature of the technology is that each subsequent horizontal row of boards slightly hangs over the previous one. Today you can meet the "American" not only from natural wood, but also from plastic and metal, but we will focus on the traditional material.
wood siding prices
wood siding
Step 1. Preparatory work. Lap siding can be done on walls made of any building material, from natural wood to aerated concrete slabs. It makes no sense to level the surfaces to an ideal state, the boards are fixed to a special carrier crate. But to do additional insulation of external walls is highly recommended. This will not only increase the comfort of living in the building, but also greatly reduce financial losses during the heating season.
Important! As heaters it is better to use pressed mineral wool. In extreme cases, you can use non-combustible foam. Just remember that existing legislation prohibits the use of any type of foam to insulate buildings that have a height of more than one floor. Do not violate this requirement, do not expose the building and your life to additional risks.
The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the climatic zone where the building is located, but in all cases it should be more than 10 cm. The technology of insulation is ordinary, it makes no sense to dwell on it. The only thing to mention is the quality of the crate. Vertical racks must be strictly perpendicular and must lie in the same plane. Check their position before starting work.
Step 2 Calculate the quantity and range of materials. Find out the area of the walls minus window and door openings. It is not recommended to sheathe the basement of the building with an overlap, keep this in mind when purchasing boards. Additionally, lumber will be needed for finishing internal and external corners, slopes and platbands of windows and doors, filing an overhanging truss system.
Practical advice! Always increase the amount of materials by 5-8%, any construction work cannot do without waste. It is better to have a small stock than to suspend work due to a lack of boards.
For fixing it is better to use ordinary nails, it is much cheaper and faster than fastening with self-tapping screws. At the same time, the reliability of fixation is no different. The length of the nails depends on the thickness of the lumber, but one rule always applies - two-thirds of the length of the nails must be included in the supporting elements. For example, if the thickness of the board is 25 mm, then the length of the nail must be at least 70 mm.
After cutting the boards, the ends must be impregnated with mastics, purchase them as well. Even if the boards are factory impregnated, the ends on the cuts should still be finished.
Prices for wood preservatives
Impregnation for wood
Step 3 Prepare your tools. For sheathing, you will need a hand-held portable electric saw, a building level, a water or laser level, a tape measure and a pencil. If you have a small stationary saw - great, the work will go much faster. You can, of course, use ordinary hacksaws, but it’s hard to work with them, and the cut is not very even, especially for beginners.
Step 4 Check the condition of the crate, if necessary, correct problem areas. There are two ways to fix uprights.
- With a nail puller, tear the slats off the wall a little, put wooden wedges in the right places and nail it again.
- Fix thin slats on top of the old ones, by changing their thickness, align the position.
Both methods are equivalent, the specific choice depends on the magnitude of the deviations. If the deviations are significant, then it is better to use the second method. The maximum difference in the position of the rails should not exceed 0.5 cm per linear meter, otherwise the bending of the outer skin will be noticeable. If you missed this point, then correct the mistake already during the skin. In places where the boards are bent, nail them loosely. As soon as you see that they begin to bend, stop. If you don't have time to react, it's okay. Pull the nail out a little and level the board.
Step 5 Corner trim. Prepare the boards, cut them in width and length on the saw. Remove the edges at a 45° angle. Connect two boards at the cut at 45 °, fasten with self-tapping screws. Fix securely, the boards may warp during operation. Drown the heads of the self-tapping screws, seal the holes with wood putty. Sand the joint with sandpaper. To improve the quality of grinding, it is better to fix the sandpaper to an even square or rectangular bar with a stapler. Be sure to soak the cut ends of the boards with any antiseptic or a special primer.
Practical advice! Finishing the corners can be done using a different method - first sheathe the walls, fasten the ends of the siding boards back to back. After finishing the sheathing in the corners, nail even boards and close the ends. This method simplifies the installation process - there is no need to adjust each board in length with great accuracy. But it also has a drawback - snow blows into the crack in winter. It is necessary to take measures to seal large gaps, otherwise the insulation may get wet. Wet glass wool is a big problem for all wooden structures. In addition, the efficiency of insulation is significantly reduced.
Step 6 Fasten the formed corners under the dividing board. The dividing board separates the lower part of the foundation from the main one. We have already mentioned that it is better to sheathe this area with waterproof materials, but the use of wooden siding is also allowed. Fix the corners with nails, make sure that the boards do not crack.
Professional advice! Never drive nails into boards at a right angle, this position increases the likelihood of cracking. The nail should enter the wood at an angle of about 30°, due to this position, it simultaneously breaks through several layers of wood, and this prevents cracking.
During fixation, constantly check the vertical position of the corners, do not allow even the slightest deviation. If this condition is not observed, then each siding board will have to be adjusted in length, as well as to make an oblique cut. Even for experienced builders, it is not easy to avoid gaps at the junctions with oblique cuts.
Step 7 Install the starting bottom bar. For these purposes, an ordinary edged board is taken and set in a horizontal position. If you do not have an expensive laser level, then use the water one. It is much cheaper, and the accuracy is not lower than that of a laser.
Step 8 Install gutters on the girdle bottom boards. They can be purchased metal or homemade wooden. The gutter drains rainwater away from the lower girdle board. Another purpose is to level the first row of siding.
Step 9 Take measurements between the drain and the top of the wall, count the number of rows of siding, taking into account the width of the boards and the amount of overlap. The overlap is done within 2-3 cm. Mark the position of the boards, for this it is better to use a template. It is made very simply.
- On one side of a flat rail, apply marks corresponding to the width of the boards. Do it very precisely, errors are completely eliminated. Designate in any way that this is the front side of the template.
- On the other side of the template, make marks along the width of the boards, but offset by the overlap of the bottom edges. We have already mentioned that the overlap is done within 2-3 cm.
Step 10 Place the template against the corner and transfer the marks from the front of the template, then turn it over and transfer the marks from the back. On each corner you should have two rows of marks, one indicating the top edge position of the first board, and the second the bottom of the next overlay. Repeat the same operation at all corners of the building.
Step 11 Proceed to fixing the siding boards. Install the first one on the lower marks and fix it with carnations. Then, on top of it, the next one, pay attention to two marks already, taking into account the height of the overlap.
The first board is fixed (here it is already in use, because a small working template is sheathed)
Practical advice! If the boards are long, then you should call an assistant. There is no such possibility - use various stops to fix the selected position of the board.
Sheathing "American" overlap
According to the indicated algorithm, continue to sheathe the wall to the very top. Next, you need to finish the soffit.
Step 1. Select the material to be sheathed. In the case of sheathing a house with a natural board, we do not recommend using various plastics. Soffit can be trimmed with an ordinary edged board or sheathed with an overlap of wall siding. Make your own decision based on your own needs.
Prices for various types of spotlights
Roof soffits
Step 2 Start the sheathing of the spotlights with markings, the lines can be beaten off with a rope with blue or make marks with a pencil along the rafters. Boards will be nailed along the lines.
Step 3 Nail the first board, its position must be checked several times. If there is a non-parallelism between the line of the rafters and the wall, then in each case an individual decision should be made. With a slight parallelism within 2-3 cm, it can be eliminated by gradually shifting the boards. A misalignment of 2-3 mm is completely invisible, multiply this value by the number of rows of siding and find out if this method can be used. For large discrepancies, the first and last boards will have to be cut with a wedge. Unfortunately, such an operation will not go unnoticed.
Step 4 Close the joints of the soffit with the wall sheathing with decorative strips. Do not forget to leave air for natural ventilation. The end facade walls do not have a roof overhang, they should be treated differently. As the sheathing progresses, the boards are cut to size with a wedge, the joints are subsequently closed with decorative end rails. If you wish, you can additionally nail wide boards to the slats, which will help hide the uneven cuts.
On a note! We have given a description of the universal overlap siding technology, but everyone can change it a little. Use various finishing elements for corners, joints, etc. The combination of wooden boards with plastic decorative elements gives an original look.
Very beautiful and durable upholstery. In appearance, it is impossible to distinguish it from the traditional method described above, and in all its indicators it is much superior to it. The effect is achieved due to the unique profile of the boards. They also have a wedge-shaped geometry, but the side edges are lockable. In connection with this structure, the front plane is inclined towards the wall, and the back is parallel to it. To improve ventilation, special grooves can be made on the reverse side.
The process of finishing walls with such siding is almost no different from ordinary clapboard cladding, but as a result, the owners get a completely new design of facade walls.
Questions and answers
Let's take a look at the frequently asked questions regarding overlap siding.
What size should the overlap be?
One of the advantages of this method of wall decoration is that each master chooses the amount of overlap individually. Due to this, it is possible to precisely adjust the position of the rows along the height of the window opening, there is no need to cut them in width. Any pruning worsens the appearance of wall surfaces. But the amount of overlap must be selected not only according to this parameter - a lot depends on the method of fixing the boards. If you want to make carnations invisible, then two conditions must be met.
- The heads of the fastening nails of the previous row should be covered with the next board.
- The fastening should keep the lumber from warping.
Based on such requirements, practice shows that the boards should overlap by about a third of the width, one nail holds two at once. But an increase in overlap automatically leads to an increase in material consumption, respectively, increases the cost of work.
On a note! There is another important point. If you have an "American", then an increase in overlap does not affect the angle; if the board is even, then the more overlap, the farther the second end goes from the wall.
How to fasten nails - in a row or in a checkerboard pattern?
It's a very difficult question with no definitive answer. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. But practitioners still advise hammering nails across the entire width of the boards in a checkerboard pattern. In this case, one row of hardware will be noticeable, but the possibility of warping is almost completely excluded. For the visible row, stainless steel studs are used, and for the closed row, ordinary ones can be used.
Is it possible to close inner and outer corners without gaps?
It is possible, but not always advisable. Why?
- It is very difficult. Each board should be attached to the end of the lamellas and accurately remove their locations, the pattern will be in the form of a herringbone. In the future, excess material is carefully removed, the position is checked and the final adjustment is carried out. The places of cuts must be sanded and be sure to impregnate at least two times with antiseptics. The same manipulations should be done with the second board. As practice shows, the finishing time of one corner increases several times.
- The gaps between decorative corners and horizontal boards serve as additional ventilation holes. For all lumber, optimal relative humidity indicators are very important - wet structures are quickly damaged by various diseases and rot.
Which corner finish is better - close to the boards or corner boards cover the lamellas?
We prefer the second option for several reasons.
- Much easier work. Deviations in length of a few centimeters do not create problems in the final decorative finish. Boards can be cut not individually, but in batches, which speeds up the sheathing process at times. In addition, there is no need to run several times with the board to the machine for accurate measurement and finishing.
- The ends of the boards are perfectly blown with air - the risks of rot are reduced, the elements can not be treated with antiseptics.
How to replace a damaged board?
For example, consider the most difficult option - the boards are fixed with two rows of nails. To work, you need a nail puller, one side of which has a flat blade.
- Insert the flat end of the nail puller into the gap between the intact and damaged boards, the tool should be located as close to the nail as possible.
- Gently press on the tool until the head protrudes a few millimeters above the surface of the board. Remove the nail puller and tap the board near the nail with a hammer, this will make it easier for the cap to come out.
- Grab the hat with the opposite curved side of the nail puller and pull it out. These manipulations must be done on the damaged and covering boards. Be sure to place wood spacers between the nail puller and the sheathing boards to avoid damaging the surfaces.
In this way, visible nails are pulled out. As for the invisible ones, they will have to be bitten with wire cutters. Lift the whole board up until there is a fairly wide gap that allows the wire cutters to get close to the nail. Depending on the circumstances, it may be necessary to undermine two or more whole boards - this will make it possible to increase the gap without the risk of cracking the whole lamellas.
Video - Overlap wood siding
Quite often I receive letters from you, my friends, in which you ask many questions, ask for help, advice. Sometimes I ask myself – what is wrong with the blog? Why don't they ask me questions directly in the topics?
Are you shy? Or uncomfortable? Or... or is there something really wrong - only I don't know about it and don't guess?
Others, are you comfortable here? cosy? Is everything clear? ... otherwise I'm seriously worried ...
The blog is almost 4 years old (there will be a celebration in a month), and it’s like my second home… I come here, get comfortable in my big leather chair, put on a cup of tea or coffee… something tasty and start writing.
And I really want you to feel comfortable and cozy here as well. And in spite of everything, I love reading your letters.
So why am I all this ... In addition, I was very much asked to tell about how we sheathed our DREAM COTTAGE in Kulemino.
You can read about all our stories about the construction of a cottage with your own hands on the shore of the Karelian lake by the tag: - You are welcome to visit us.
And today I will tell you everything about the skin ...
I want to say right away that I don’t have detailed photos of the process - there was no time to take them .. But I tried to draw understandable illustrations :))
BUT! If you have any questions - I'm here! :)))
So let's go...
As I already said, the 2014 season ended with the sheathing of one large wall in the new living room.
By that time, we had already left for Moscow, and my dad himself sheathed this wall. In general, I can say - HERO. Since 4 meters of wall in one hand ... Together - this is normal, but alone ...
But he did and even treated it with an antiseptic before winter - which I was incredibly happy about.
The 2015 season is a lot of work to complete the construction of a new room - and of course, we also finished it beautifully on all three sides ...
The 2016 season was under the slogan: BEAUTIFULLY COVER THE WHOLE HOUSE!
No sooner said than done…
How did I even come up with this idea? I don’t know for sure ... But I clearly knew that I wanted to see just such a picture :))) from my selection on Pinterest.
And then I often saw in our villages this way of sheathing houses ... I really liked it.
This is not only beautiful - since you have no idea how beautiful the play of light and shadow on the edges of the board is, but also practical - if you just upholster the board “exactly”, then there is a risk that the gaps will still be ... and they will have to be covered with flashings ... And such a method will practically protect us from the story with flashings - that's why he was chosen.
My dad, as usual, with his skepticism, said that it was necessary to do it as simply as possible - but I was stubborn - insisted on my own ... Yes, it took more boards ... (one wall of our house is about 27 boards), but it was worth it!
And it turned out just super ... And in chocolate color, it fits beautifully into the history of the forest.
So... how did this all happen?
If you remember, our new room is “conditionally frame”. Therefore, outside we have WIND PROTECTION ... the entire frame is sheathed with it. According to the rules, there must be some distance between the cladding final layer of the house and the wind protection (the manufacturer advises 5 cm) for the normal functioning of the entire frame system - this is of course understandable ...
In this regard, the work on cladding the house with the “HERRINGNESS” board consisted of the following:
STEP number 1 - make guides from bars and install them on the frame of the whole house in increments of no more than 1 meter.
STEP number 2 - select the boards that are prepared for this work, sand them well and preferably treat with an antiseptic.
STEP #3 - Carefully complete all the sewing work at home.
Necessary tools and materials:
- Chainsaw
- Jigsaw and wood saws
- Preferably wood sawing machine
- Sander and a lot of sandpaper
- Roulettes, iron corner and level!
- Hammers
- Nails
- screwdriver and wood screws
- Antiseptic, brushes, rollers.
And yet - a lot of free space for work, so that your workplace is as comfortable as possible!
Go…
Step one - bars or crate.
We did not buy ready-made bars, as for us it was both inconvenient and expensive. We have a machine, so we just sawed the bars from the boards that were left from the floor with a section of 4 cm.
On wooden walls, the bars were simply screwed with large self-tapping screws, on stone walls the story was more complicated - special dowels and dowel-nails were required there to keep everything well.
The guides were fixed in increments of about 1 meter, no more. Somewhere it turned out both 60 cm and 80 ...
This is also an important point - if the wall is long without windows, there is a temptation to make the steps of the crate huge - like nails, you can save - but then there is a risk that the board will bend ... And everything will go to waste - think a hundred times!
STEP #2 - board:
We had the following upholstery board: edged board 125*20*6000.
From my point of view, this is the most convenient size both in thickness and width .. well, I won’t talk about the length. On the one hand, the longer the better - but it’s also more difficult to work :)
We carefully processed each board with a grinding machine. EVERYONE! And especially the ends. The end that went “inside” under the board - I did not grind perfectly, but simply processed a little.
In my mind, each board from all sides must also be treated with an antiseptic - I, the lazy person, did not do the treatment from the inside.
But you can't do that :)))
Here I’ll make a small clarification from experience: you won’t be able to sand the entire board at once - it’s quite inconvenient to do for the whole house as a whole. Divide the work into sections.
How we did:
For example, we decided to make wall A. There are two windows (see picture). The crate is in place and you can measure everything well.
We measure all areas (under the windows, above the windows, between them) and cut the board into the required length pieces. Then I grind and we nail them right away ... Everything is fast.
Why cut the board? Believe me, grinding 120 cm or 6 meters are two big differences. For long boards, I made a whole fixture from clamps and work tables.
Why sanding is necessary: because ... because, firstly, everything will be perfectly evenly beautiful, and secondly, a sanded board will consume much less paint (impregnation, azure, etc.). This is a significant money saver as well. So you are faced with a choice - to buy a polished board or go through this path yourself. We had no choice - we had to grind ourselves.
The hardest job in this story is sanding. Since it is boring ... and monotonous. Then my hands hurt from the operation of the machine very much.
But I did it. Yes, the men were very helpful. Sometimes my dad and I worked in two hands, I polished the board, and he had its ends - it was very convenient to cooperate in such an artel :)
Now let's move on to the process of creating a "Christmas Tree".
The most important thing there is to set the first board perfectly even. It is installed absolutely straight, hammered into 2 nails in each guide. And the most important thing is to make sure that its level is perfectly even.
A lyrical digression: when we talk about the evenness of a board, we must understand that it almost does not exist in nature ... I.e. it is very rare when they bring you a stack of 5-6 cubes of an ideal evenly uneven board. And you will be able to ensure storage at such a high level that it will not lead, it will not pick up moisture, it will not start to rot, etc ...
With all these difficulties you will have to face - be prepared for pleasant and not very pleasant surprises.
If you are buying a board in bulk at once, arrange storage space, stack properly with cross rails, don't stack the board close together, and try to cover it from the rain.
How to set exactly the first board? We worked together and did this: we figured out the “beginning” of our herringbone wall.
The husband nailed his edge to 1 nail (50 and 70 nails were used).
Then he went to the center of the board and set the level, at that time I adjusted my edge according to his instructions. Then, when the level showed “OK”, the husband moved away from the house at an impressive distance and looked at the visual evenness, since our long board was not all that perfect.
If everything is “OK”, then I hammered my edge and we finished nailing the board along all the guides.
We take the second board and begin to form the same Christmas tree by imposing one board on another.
“Overlap” was literally 1-1.5 cm. No more! The sewing process was the same as with the first board - I hammered in the first nail, checked the level, it was necessary - I checked visually and went to nail everything else ...
We tried to make the board fit very tightly to the previous board and we had practically no gaps between them.
Difficulty sometimes arose if the board was with a “hump”, then we straightened it right in place so that the power of the nail would help us put everything in its place.
If everything goes smoothly, the board is level, and there were no mistakes from the very beginning, then it works very quickly. It took us two or three hours to cover one wall.
This is how, step by step, we sheathed the whole house in two seasons (one pediment remained - but that's another story).
Make sure that you have good quality nails :)) and not like this:
Now about the paint.
After we sheathed the house, I covered it with a special azure from OLYMP:
OLIMP Omicron-Maximum - Wood-protective glazing thixotropic composition with a UV filter.
Why OLYMP? Everything is simple - budget and tested by repeated use at other sites.
I first got acquainted with Olympic impregnations when I was making a balcony in my apartment in Moscow. There we have made a bar counter from a pine board. And then we covered it with this very impregnation of the “NUT” color ... Now almost 8 years have passed already ... But the “convergence” of the paint layer has become noticeable. But - this is the 19th floor of the northern part of Moscow, blown by the most terrible winds and practically this table is always flooded in the rains very strongly.
The walls in the rest room of the bath are covered with azure from OLYMPUS, the pediment of the guest room from the side of the street is covered, all the filings of the roof of a large house are covered ... For its long use, while it shows its good side.
Therefore, we did not think for a long time and also bought azure from OLYMPUS for the walls .. The only difference is that this time we chose azure that is not water-based. Therefore, it smelled strongly, was quite thick, it should only be diluted with white spirit, and, accordingly, a different care for brushes and rollers.