Starting profile for siding, its purpose and method of installation. How to install a siding starter bar correctly

Increasingly, siding is used as a facing material for houses and cottages. To ensure reliable fixation of the material, special components are used. They prevent rattling of the facing layer and prevent deformation of the vinyl panels.

Varieties of fasteners

Each manufacturer offers its own products, which may differ in the additional number of components. But a set of basic elements is present in all suppliers. This includes:

• starting bar;
• finish line;
• inner and outer corner;
• plank vertical connection;
• soffit.

For framing windows and doorways apply:

• platband;
• window profile;
• low tide.

For decorative design suppliers offer various moldings, trims, chamfers, etc.

Purpose of fittings

The starting bar serves as a reference point. This is where the siding begins. The start profile is upper part latch panels. The finish strip is the final stage of the installation of panels and additional elements. The bar is installed on all horizontal sections. They close the last stripes above and below the openings and areas under the roof.

Internal and external corners have the same function. They are used for joining panels in corners. Fittings are used to hold and connect the cut joints of vinyl panels at internal and external corners. J-profile is used to complete all vertical edges. It is used to frame openings and support spotlights. Also, the plank is used to decorate inclined lines at the junction of the wall and roof on the gable.

It is shaped like two J-strips joined together. It is used for joining strips of siding. It is used when the size of the panel is not enough for the entire length of the wall. Two J-strips can be used as a replacement, but they will not provide a sealed joint.

Soffit is used for arranging ceilings and cornices. It is made in two types: solid and perforated. The ceiling is hemmed with a continuous soffit. Perforated strips are used when ventilation is required.

For registration of windows and doors use a platband. It is used in the case when the openings are on the same plane with the walls. It resembles a J-profile in shape, but has increased dimensions.

If the windows are deepened into the facade, then other fittings are used. It's called a window profile. Essentially, this is the same casing, only with the addition of a vinyl shelf that replaces the slope. The tide is used as the lower slope plane. They are also equipped above the basement.

Installation of fasteners

Before installing the fittings, it is necessary to mark the line for starting work. For this, the lowest point of the cladding is determined. At this level, a line is marked along the entire perimeter of the building and the installation process begins.

Installed as follows:

• the initial profile is laid on the marked line with the upper edge;
• the strap is fixed, it must be done in the center of the longitudinal hole;
• the next profile is joined, the gap between them should be 6 mm;
• the starting bar should not reach the corner by the amount of the size corner profile and a gap of 6 mm.

If depressions remain on the wall surface after preparation, they must be eliminated when fixing the initial plank. This can be done with a wooden or rubber lining.

If the evenness of the profile installation is not observed, wave deformation of the siding is possible.

If it is supposed to connect two strips on one wall, then the installation is carried out in the following sequence:

• the first ordinary panel is attached;
• a vertical connection bar is installed, fixed in the upper part, the bar should not reach the eaves by a size of 5 mm;
• gap between panel and vertical stripe must be at least 6 mm;
• it is aligned vertically and fastened along the entire length in increments of 20–30 cm;
• the second panel is inserted into the bar and fixed.

External and internal corners

The installation technology follows the same technology. The only difference is that after starting strip corner profiles are mounted, and only then laying is carried out vinyl siding. When laying the corner profile, it must be lowered down from the starting bar by 10 mm.

For its installation of these components, there are a number of rules:

• fixation must be carried out in increments of 20–30 mm;
• if more than one profile is used along the length, they must be joined with an overlap of 2 mm;
• when joining the plank in upper corner the gable is cut at an angle and a gap of 6 mm is left between the parts.

It is installed close to the eaves or along the edge of the opening from above or below. The installation of the strip is carried out before the installation of the last panel. After that, at the required height, the siding is cut off, and a bend is made at the edge of the cut. It is used to fix the panel in the lock of the finish line.

Choose fasteners and panels from the same manufacturer. The sizes of some accessories from different firms can differ. Mismatch will lead to poor-quality assembly of the cladding.

Or siding is an up-to-date and simple way to complete the cladding of a house. For correct fastening panels, start, finish, drain or plinth plank and other mounting elements. Let's talk about the features of choosing and installing these important details.

Varieties of planks

Usually, a document is attached to a set of slats, which describes in detail their purpose and installation procedure. There are no fundamental differences in the installation of parts from different manufacturers. For this reason, you can safely use the instructions given in this article.

All mounting elements have a special shape and purpose. They also come in different sizes and prices. Consider the features of the most popular types of slats.

For reliable and accurate fastening of panels, a number of auxiliary elements. Click to enlarge.

The starting bar, which is often called the initial bar, is used to install the first panel. Standard length this profile is 3660 mm. During operation, it is necessary to take into account such a feature of the material as thickness. The bar is very thin, so it is attached directly to the surface to be treated.

From this bar begins the installation of panels.

The initial bar is installed across the crate, and a rigid base is placed under it. The base material depends on the characteristics of the crate. For example, a lath or a perforated corner is used for a wooden crate, and a UD profile is used for a galvanized crate.

If you have a branded facade subsystem with ventilation, then there is no need to additionally mount the base - this has already been provided by the manufacturer.

Interestingly, if you install the siding yourself, the color of the initial bar does not play any role. This is due to the fact that it will be completely covered by the panels and will not affect the appearance lining. The profile is fastened with nails or self-tapping screws.

Outwardly, it looks like a J-profile. Their only difference lies in the thickness (at the finishing frame it is much less). It is used for fixing the end panel and processing the edge of the cut sheet. Since it needs to be fixed across the crate, you must first make the base more rigid. For this, the same materials are used as in the case of the initial bar.

In appearance, the finish bar is very similar to the J-bar.

Most shops sell products with a length of 3660 mm, but other sizes can be found if necessary. The fastening of such a profile is carried out arbitrarily, that is, when screwing in a self-tapping screw, it is not adjusted by 1-2 turns. The nail is also not finished off by 1-1.5 mm. This method makes the mount more resistant to weather conditions. With temperature changes, it can decrease and increase without deforming the structure and without affecting the appearance of the building.

Inner and outer corner

This type of plank is used to connect parts of the siding and exterior corners.

1. outer corner. Standard part length - 3050 mm. Fastening is done arbitrarily, as with the previous bar. This allows the corner to change dimensions with temperature changes. This profile also has decorative properties. You can find corners whose surface is similar to a brick or has the form natural stones. The setting will be the same regardless of the pattern. Due to the peculiarities of the dimensions of the corner plank, the crate must be installed at a distance of 10 cm from the corner of the house. This will help to join the edges of the perforated tape and the crate.
2. Inner corner. This bar also has a length of 3050 mm. It is used to set the inner corner of the panels. Installation is carried out arbitrarily. The quality of work depends on compliance with the conditions for the profiles of the crate described in the previous paragraph.

Inner and outer corners.

G-plank and G-bevel

1. J-profile is used for finishing the facing surface and internal corners building. This is one of essential elements for siding, as it is universal. It is mounted on convex parts. When installed on slopes, it protects them from rain and snow. It is also useful if the siding ends on one wall and does not go to another. The length of the bar is 3660 mm. Mounting is done randomly. When finishing a building with metal siding using a G-Strip, the end result is neat.
2. The J-bevel, also known as the wind bevel, is used to finish narrow strips. Such a profile can be useful when finishing a cornice or balcony. The chamfer has a length of 3660 mm. Despite the fact that its fixation is carried out on the finishing profiles, it is better to use stainless steel screws.

Slope and H profile

1. A window or slope bar is attached in those places where it is necessary to close thin depressions. Most often it is used to cover the slopes of doors and windows. The installation of the bar is carried out arbitrarily. Its length is 3050 mm.
2. The connecting H-bar is used when the length of the installed panels does not match the dimensions of the walls. The standard profile length is 3050 mm. Mounting is done randomly. The plank is mounted along the crate before the siding is attached, so additional profiles are attached for it. They must be horizontal. Their fastening is carried out every half a meter.

Platband and hinged bar

This type of slats is used quite rarely and not all manufacturers have it. Sometimes the platband is sold with the marking "wide G-profile". Most often it is used in decorative purposes. It is installed at the joints of different types of siding. It is also often used to create a window frame if it is flush with the wall. The length of one bar is 3660 mm. Mounting is done randomly.

Element - platband.

drain bar

The purpose of this bar becomes clear from its name. It is necessary for the drainage and drainage of water. In addition, it has decorative properties. Usually a drain or plinth strip is required when designing a transitional space between the plinth and the facade. Due to the peculiarities of its design, it cannot become a guide profile for attaching siding. A starting bar is mounted on top of it, and a corner or rail is mounted under it. This is necessary for rigidity. Lath length - 3660 mm.

When installing planks, remember that the durability and beauty of the siding directly depend on them. You can avoid bumps if you think about the installation and make sure that the siding panels are 50mm shorter than the net length of the installation. Otherwise, under high temperatures it will seriously deform or bend the bar. In any case, you will need to make repairs, that is, remove panels and trims, and then reinstall them.

If during installation you find that you do not have an internal corner, then it's okay. Instead, you can use 2 J-strips, after attaching each to a separate plane.

The diagram shows in which places of the structure which elements are used.

What do you need to cover the house with siding?

1. Cord.
2. Square.
3. Building level.
4. Saw or hacksaw for metal work. It is important that the saw has fine teeth. Large teeth can damage parts. Moreover, it is difficult to perform small work with them.
5. Knife cutter. You will need it in order to mark the lines along which the panels will pass.
6. Screwdriver and screws.

In general, the installation of slats does not present serious difficulties. In order to facilitate the work, purchase all the materials in advance and consider where each panel will be attached.

In spite of big number varieties of slats and the technical details of the installation, you can do everything yourself.

The initial plank of the siding defines the plane as a whole. After all, panels begin to be attached to it and improper installation can lead to correct geometry coatings.

In this article we will tell you how to install the initial bar of metal siding and what to look for when doing so. Here it is worth saying right away that the installation of the starting siding bar is a complex of works where everything is important. After all, the bar is attached to the frame and when it is not correct installation and the bar will not be installed correctly.

Here, many other additional elements are also important, which help to make the finish of high quality. We will consider all these questions today. In the video in this article, you can see and understand everything most correctly.

What are siding accessories for?

The starting bar for siding must interact with many trim elements. Siding manufacturers produce a certain set of components necessary for installation (see).

They may differ slightly in color, size, profile, have different names, but are necessary for the same needs. This is protection weaknesses facade from moisture, wind and other atmospheric influences, as well as the design of facade nodes.

• Starting bar for metal siding- an element with which it is customary to begin wall cladding. It is installed with the upper edge along a pre-marked line, which is located forty millimeters above the lower border of the finish. The siding panel is further inserted into the lower edge starting bar, and the upper edge is fixed to the crate or wall.

Attention: Due to the fact that the siding completely covers the starting bar, it is not necessary to match it to the color of the panels.

• H-profile or necessary to hide the seams between the panels and connect them when increasing the length.
• Drain or hinged siding strip necessary to protect the basement and windows of the object from water flows. It is installed in the upper part of the opening or at the junction of the base with siding.
• External and internal corner(see ) are the elements necessary for docking panels.
• wind bar necessary for finishing roof eaves.
• Platbands and trim strips used as a finishing material for openings, mounted around the entire perimeter.
• Soffit- an element intended for finishing roofs and facades.
• finish plank - the final element of paneling. They are installed under the eaves before mounting the extreme siding panel, masking it under the trimmed or perforated edge.

Most of these accessories are installed on the facade of the building even before the panels are installed. These are connecting and initial strips, elements for framing openings, corner pieces.

All parts are attached to the frame, it is with him that the finishing process begins. Let's look at the main points of finishing siding, what to do and what not to do.

frame

This is where it all starts and all the elements will be attached to it. So the frame must have the correct geometric shape. Here the geometry of the installation will be important.

So:

• First we will need to draw the correct line along the bottom of the plane. The starting bar for siding will be attached precisely to it. We put a mark on the plane at the desired height. Now it must be moved to the opposite edge. To do this, it is best to use a water level. It is with his help that you can do the job most correctly. We transfer.
• Now we connect the dots. To do this, we use a kapron thread. The line just bounces off.

Attention: The initial plank of the siding will go exactly along this line, so it must be made as accurately as possible.

Installing the starting bar

If you know about the sequence of actions and strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Then the price of the final result will be reduced to the cost of materials.

If you are doing a cladding without a frame, then the work is done as follows.

Installation always begins with the installation of the initial bar and do it as follows:

• We find the lower point of the cladding and set aside forty millimeters upwards from it;
• Via building level makes marks on all vertical frame profiles. If the siding is attached to the wall, then draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the entire facade;
• The starting siding bar is applied to the marking line with the upper edge and fixed with nails or self-tapping screws to load-bearing structure. But this is with a wooden surface.
• If the plane is made of brick or concrete, then it will be necessary to make a hole with a puncher and make the connection to the dowel.

Attention: Do not use the dowels from the kits for this. They will not give the desired rigidity. It is necessary to take plastic separately and self-tapping screws to it, but with a size less than the plastic section by a couple of mm.

When doing this work, you must follow some rules:

• Between the ends of the successively installed strips, a gap of five to six millimeters should be left so that during a change in temperature they can easily expand without interfering with each other. Otherwise, you can get the effect of the so-called wave on the lining.
• The same distance must be left between the corner framing elements and the bar itself.

Attention: Self-tapping screws or nails must be driven into the very middle of the oblong hole, and not along the edge. In this case, the fasteners should not be too tight so that the bar is able to move along the wall along the entire length of the mounting holes.

• The distance between the mounting points should be thirty to forty centimeters.

Installation of connecting strips and corner elements

Work related to facade cladding requires compliance with the above recommendations for the installation of all elements. They are all aimed at creating a floating structure, which, when expanded due to temperature, did not deform.

So:

• Corner elements must be installed clearly vertically.
• Their upper edge should not reach the eaves by six millimeters, and the lower edge should be lowered eight millimeters below the edge of the starting strip.
• The H-profile is mounted in the same way.

Installing the finish line

Finishing siding strip, most often, is installed in the upper area of ​​the wall, close to the eaves. But it is also used as an aesthetic design option for door and window openings (see) that protrude from walls.

• The last plank is attached before the top, that is, the last, siding panel is installed. It is fixed in the same way as other additional parts - with self-tapping screws through the holes in the edge.
• After that, the siding must be cut to width, and perforated along the cut edge.
• After the connection to the previous panel has been made, the top piece of the cladding is simply placed under the fold of the last plank.

Caution: Use coated hardware for fastening. They will last much longer.

Now you know how the starting siding bar and other additional elements are attached. You have instructions and the price of materials is not high. If you do everything right, then the end result will please you.

Siding is an excellent material for cladding a house. At its affordable cost, it has many positive operational and technical characteristics.

You are invited detailed instructions on self-assembly siding. The guide is universal. Following its provisions, you will be able to finish with any siding that provides installation on the crate: fiber cement, wood, metal, vinyl, etc.

Siding is best attached to a pre-mounted crate. We work in the following order.

The first stage - choose the material

The frame can be assembled from wooden beam or metal profile. Metal products are stronger and more durable. In addition, the metal crate is much easier to attach to an uneven base.

Installation of profiles is carried out with a half-meter step. Hangers are used for wall mounting. This technique will allow leveling surface differences and fixing the frame elements in level.

Wooden crate is cheaper. When choosing this option, pay attention to the condition of the wood. It is prohibited to:

• the material was exfoliated;
• was deformed;
• had bluish spots and traces of rot, etc.

Elements wooden crate must be impregnated with flame retardant and antiseptic. If the house is built from wooden elements, the walls should also be treated with the listed preparations.

The second stage - preparing the base

The crate is easiest to attach to a flat base. First of all, we remove any details that may interfere. These are all kinds of tiles, bars, platbands, gutters, etc.

The third stage - set the guides

Siding is best mounted horizontally. In this case, we fix the bars or profiles of the crate vertically.

For attaching rails to wooden walls use nails or screws. If the house is built of concrete blocks or bricks, we fix it with dowels, having previously drilled holes for them in the wall of the house.

We level each rail.

Important! If you plan to perform external wall insulation, it is best to fix the siding crate after all insulation work has been completed. In this case, there will be two crates: for insulating materials and for cladding. In this case, the rails of the two frames should be placed parallel to each other.

You can, of course, try to lay insulating layers after attaching the siding sheathing, but this is not very convenient.

We mount J-profiles

The starting rails must be perfectly fixed, as the quality of the entire lining depends on the correctness of their installation.

First step. We take the level and find the lowest point on the crate. We step back from it up 50 mm and put a mark. To do this, we screw a self-tapping screw into the rail a little.

Second step. We consistently move around the building and continue to put marks with self-tapping screws to fix the starting profiles. We also screw self-tapping screws in the corners of the house.

Third step. We stretch the rope between the corner marks.

Fourth step. We mark on the rails the boundaries of the installation of corner profiles. We take the profile itself, apply it to the corner frame structure and put marks along the edges with a pencil.

Important! We leave a 1-centimeter gap between the profiles to compensate for temperature deformations.

We leave a gap between the starting guides and the nail strips.

To avoid the 6 mm setback, you can cut off parts of the nail strips so that they do not rest against the J-profile during temperature changes.

Important! Starting profiles must be mounted strictly horizontally! Correct deviations for as long as necessary.

If you install guides with deviations from the level, the siding will also warp. It will be extremely difficult to fix this in the future.

We mount external corner profiles

First step. We mark spotlights. We need to see where the edges of these elements will be in the future.

Second step. Attach the guide to the corner of the frame. We do this with a 3 mm gap to the soffit or roof. We fix the profile with self-tapping screws.

The lower border of the element is placed 0.6 cm below the edge of the starting profile.

Third step. We check the verticality of the installation. In the absence of deviations, we fix the bottom, and after that - the rest of the places. Experts do not advise placing fasteners in corner elements too often.

If the house is higher than 300 cm, the profiles will need to be superimposed one on top of the other. To do this, cut the top profile. As a result, a 9 mm gap should remain between the planks of the joined elements. When laying the elements, we maintain an overlap of 2.5 cm.

Important! We join the profiles at the same level on each side of the house.

If the plinth has a protruding structure, we shorten the profile so that a 6 mm gap remains between it and the plinth.

Useful advice! Instead of a corner profile, it is allowed to install 2 J-elements (starting). This way you can save money. But this solution also has its drawback - the corner will not be as tight as when using a special corner profile. Having decided to use this method, pre-glue the wall at a similar angle with a strip of rolled waterproofing material.

We mount internal corner profiles

The order of installation of these elements does not have significant differences from the technology for arranging external corners - we leave an indent of 3 mm between the profile and the soffit, while lowering the lower end of the profile below the J-bar by 0.6 cm.

If there is a protruding plinth or other element protruding from the bottom general level, then we also leave a 6 mm indent between it and the profile - it is impossible for the profile of the inner corner to rest against it.

There are 3 methods for arranging internal corners, see the picture.

If the wall height is more than 300 cm, we perform profile splicing. The technology is the same as for the arrangement of external corners.

We leave a 9 mm indent between the planks, carefully cutting off excess material. The overlap of the upper element on the lower one is 2.5 cm. We install the fasteners with a 4-centimeter step, placing them strictly in the center of the holes intended for this. The exception is the most top point. Here the fasteners must be installed at the top of the hole.

We mount the frames of the openings

For most inexperienced craftsmen, difficulties arise precisely at the stage of framing window and door openings. The order of work will vary depending on how the openings are arranged in relation to the plane of the wall.

Openings in the same plane with the facade

In this case, we do the following.

First step. We perform waterproofing of openings.

Second step. We fasten platbands or J-profiles to the openings. We equip each opening using 4 platbands: a pair of vertical and a pair of horizontal.

Third step. We connect profiles.

To make the connection of platbands as accurate as possible, we do this:

The platband at the bottom is connected in exactly the same way, only the bridges will need to be cut and bent on the side elements for their further lining on the profile below.

Apertures recessed into the facade

When installing near-window profiles, we work in compliance with the same recommendations as when installing platbands, i.e. we create cuts on the profile corresponding to the depth of the opening, and then bend the bridges and insert them into the finishing elements.

Do not be too lazy to understand the principles of bending such bridges. We make them so that they cover the junction of the cladding elements. As a result, moisture will not be able to penetrate inside.

Installing the first panel

We start facing with the least noticeable wall of the building. So we can practice and work out all sorts of inaccuracies.

First step. We insert the first cladding panel into the corner profile and into the locking joint of the starting strip.

Important! Between the first cladding element and bottom of the corner profile lock, we leave a 6 mm temperature gap.

Second step. We attach the panel to the crate.

It is important to observe the dimensions of technological indents. If the lining is carried out in warm weather, we maintain a 6 mm indent, if in cold weather, we increase the gap to 9 mm. When installing trim panels, the indents can be reduced.

We build up panels

We build up the cladding elements with an overlap or with the help of an H-profile.

When fastening panels with an overlap, you must first shorten the locks facing panels and mounting frames, so that as a result the overlap is 2.5 cm long.

The installation of the H-profile is carried out similarly to the corner elements - at the top we retreat 0.3 cm from the soffit, from the bottom we lower it by 0.6 cm in relation to the starting profile.

Important! We leave a 6 mm indent between the H-profile and any obstacles on the facade of the house.

Installing the rest of the siding

We continue to clad the house with siding. The technology of work is similar to the order of fastening the first panel.

Important! Every 2-3 rows, we check the horizontalness of the cladding using a level.

Having reached the opening, we remove the unnecessary piece of the panel falling on the opening.

We provide reliable fastening of panels with the help of "hooks". For this we need a punch.

We mount an additional finishing profile at the bottom of the opening. It will allow you to level the lining on the plane.

Mounting under the roof

Under roof structure fasten the J-profile.

We work in the following order.

First step. We measure the distance between the lower part of the lock of the finishing element and the lock of the penultimate facing panel.

Second step. Subtract from the measurement obtained 1-2 mm indent.

Third step. We mark the whole panel, cut off its upper part with a locking connection.

Fourth step. We create "hooks" at the top of the element with a 20 cm step. To do this, we make cuts and bend them to the front side.

Fifth step. We insert the trimmed element into the penultimate siding panel. With a slight upward movement, we snap the inserted element into lock connection finish profile.

We mount the pediment

We sheathe the pediment around the perimeter. All fasteners, except for the top, are installed in the center of the holes. Upper fastener install holes at the top. Sheathing can be done both with profiles for arranging internal corners, and with a starting profile.

Mounting procedure is the same as mounting wall panels. We cut the edges of the elements and connect them with the locks of the receiving profiles. Keep in mind the 6mm setback when mounting in warm weather and 9mm when working in winter.

We fasten the last element of the pediment sheathing directly through the panel material - this can only be done here.

Cladding completed.

In order for the paneling of the house to be as successful as possible, you need to know certain subtleties of performing such work. There is a list general recommendations for any siding, as well as separate tips for panels made from a specific material.

For different materials

Now you can personally perform the installation of siding at the highest level.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself siding installation

In order for the first siding panel to be well fixed, a starting bar is specially mounted. It is with this element that the facade cladding begins. In this article we will tell you how to install a starter bar for siding with different types of plinth and about some features of using a starter bar.

Specifications

The starting bar cannot be seen as it is covered by the first panel. For this reason, its main technical parameters are the length. As a rule, this figure will depend on the size of the length of the siding panel. The starting bar should be selected immediately when buying sidingso that there are no discrepancies.

As for the dignity of the starting bar, several aspects can be distinguished here:

• The starting bar is not deformed, does not give in to corrosion and cracking.
• At negative impact atmospheric precipitation does not lose its technological properties in terms of strength and integrity.
• No special tools are required to install the starter bar.
• The plank is not flammable.
• When exposed to sunlight or when the temperature drops, the starting bar does not lose its strength.

Mounting Features

As mentioned above, this bar is mounted directly in front of the siding sheathing. Based on the fact that the base can be different kind, the installation of the bar is carried out in different ways. The base is of three types:

1. Smooth.
2. sinking.
3. Speaker.

When installing the starting bar on a sinking and even plinth, there is one installation principle. The protruding plinth requires a different approach. In some cases, the installed crate on the wall can make a protruding plinth sink down.

Note! The start bar is set not only to start the installation of siding. It is also used in sheathing attics, finishing gables. Also, the bar can be mounted from the second or third floor.

Mounting on a recessed and level plinth

The level of the wall between the base and the wall is often called "zero". It is this boundary that must be found before starting work. To do this, you can use the water level, which checks every corner of the house. They need to determine the low point of the installation of the starting profile. For example, let's take starting profile, the width of which is 6.4 cm. From the bottom point found on the wall, measure this width and hammer a nail into the wall. Around the perimeter of the house at each corner, the nail is hammered at the same level height.

Note! Sometimes sheathing can be done with a slight overlap on the base. To do this, retreat not 6.4 cm, but 5 cm. The overlap can be of any width, but it should not overlap the middle of the bar itself.

Connect the hammered nails with one cord. This cord indicates the upper limit of the starting bar. So that the cord does not interfere with the installation of the plank, you can rub it with chalk and beat off the line around the entire perimeter of the house.

Next, check for the presence of crates along the entire length of the house. It should be enough to install the starting bar. In some cases, it may be necessary to build up the crate, especially if the plinth is far from horizontal and some corners are pulled up strongly.

After these works, you can proceed directly to the installation of the bar itself.

Note! Any unevenness of the starting bar can lead to siding defects in subsequent rows.

For installation, a distance is measured from the corner of the house, which will be the same as the width of the corner profile (75 mm) or j-profile (46 mm). At the same time, one should not forget to take into account the presence temperature gap up to 5 mm.

Note! The starter strip for the siding sheathing can be made in any color, as it will be completely covered by the sheathing.

Now retreat from the corner to the width of the profile plus the temperature gap. Put the starting bar in this place and fix it. All this must be done according to the markup carried out. Top edge the strips must completely match the mark along the entire perimeter of the walls. The plank can be fixed with nails or screws. They are inserted into a special perforated hole. After installation, the bar should be moved from side to side, returning to its original place. Nothing should interfere with these movements. After installing the first bar, you also retreat up to 10 mm for the temperature gap and install the next starting bar.

According to this principle, installation is carried out around the entire perimeter of the facade. In the process of work, from time to time you can check the bar for horizontality using a level.

Mounting on a raised plinth

Before installing the starting bar on the protruding plinth, it is necessary to install the ebb. It will protect the base from moisture. To do this, it will be enough to use an ebb 10 cm wide. Before installing it, the surface of the base, and it can be made of brick, stone or concrete, must be leveled. If the base is wooden, then it is treated with an antiseptic. The search for the bottom point of the wall or occurs in the same way as with a flat or sinking base. A line is also beaten off along the entire perimeter of the walls.

The tide is mounted from the corner. A meter-long piece of ebb is cut off. It is necessary to make a cut in it so that it forms desired angle outside or outside. Each subsequent ebb is installed with an overlap of 2.5 cm.

When the ebb is fixed around the entire perimeter of the facade, you can proceed with the installation of the starting bar. To do this, measure 4 cm from the tide bar and again beat off the line with chalk. Next, the installation of the starting bar is carried out according to the same principle as with a flat or sinking base.

Video

Setting up the start bar is very simple: