How to choose and lay your own electric underfloor heating. How to choose an electric underfloor heating: tips, calculations and diagrams, how to choose and install electric underfloor heating

An electric underfloor heating is used as an additional source of heat. This scheme works well on floors of any kind and is arranged in houses made of any material. A distinctive feature is simple installation, which will appeal to an inexperienced master. It is good to mount such a floor in rooms where it is very difficult to lay a heating system. For example, a balcony or terrace. Sometimes, underfloor heating is used as the only heating method, in which case it is necessary to take into account the upcoming energy costs.

Benefits of electric floors

Electric floor heating has a number of advantages, due to which it is often used in an apartment or a private house.

  • Possibility of heating the whole room, as well as a separate part of it. Warm floors can be laid over the entire area of ​​​​the room, or you can install it only in a certain part. In this case, space zoning is performed.
  • Electric warm floors are convenient to use, since they are controlled by a remote control or a temperature controller is used.
  • It is possible to connect to the "smart home" system. In this case, the heating can be controlled remotely.
  • Simple and easy installation that does not require special tools.
  • No possibility of leakage.

During installation, the floor does not occupy a large amount of the height of the room, and therefore it must be used where this moment will not have a negative impact

Such floors are easier to use in high-rise buildings, since the standard water heating method puts a greater load on the floors, and the electric warm floor weighs several times less.


Warm floor

But it should not be noted that such a coating also has disadvantages.

Disadvantages of electric floors

These include:

  • Possibility of a short circuit - this problem can occur with any electrically heated device and a warm floor is no exception. This problem should be prevented by checking all cables before laying the flooring.
  • Energy costs are not so much a problem as a disadvantage. When using such a scheme, an increase in costs cannot be avoided - the decision depends on what use is envisaged:
    • If electric floor heating is used as a permanent power source, then it makes sense for reliable home insulation. For example, to make high-quality thermal insulation of walls. In this case, heat losses will decrease and, as a result, heating costs will also decrease.
    • If the system is used as an additional source of heat, then it makes sense to lay the elements where there is the most movement. As a rule, the most frequent movement is carried out in the center of the room, respectively, and the heating elements must be laid in the center. Thus, fewer elements will be required, and costs will be reduced by heating a certain area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, and not all at once.

Sometimes radiation is singled out as disadvantages. But the fact is that such a system does not differ from another electronic device, and therefore you should not be afraid of harm from it.

Types of electric heating

On the market for electric underfloor heating, you can find several versions. Each has its own pros and cons. In order to understand which option is best suited to a particular housing, it is necessary to study each of them.

Electric underfloor heating is divided into 2 types by action:

  1. Resistive - heating in this type of heating is carried out by cables.
  2. Infrared - heating is carried out due to a special component that transfers heat to surrounding things.

Cable electric floor

The cable version is different in that it uses cables to match the quality of the heating elements. Connected to electricity, they heat up due to which the surface is heated.

Solid wires

Cables with one core are both a conductor of heat and a heating element. If the installation of electric underfloor heating occurs with such a cable, then it is important that the ends of the wire converge in one place. This is necessary to connect the system to the control unit.


Two-core wires

Two-core wires are much more convenient in terms of use. One core is needed for heating, the other closes the circuit. When using these cables, the meeting of the two ends is not necessary. Therefore, it is more often used, it is much easier to bring one end of the wire to the control unit than to mount the system so that both ends meet in one place.

heating mat

The convenience of mats is that you do not need to independently calculate the necessary power, this was all done by the manufacturer. Mats are purchased depending on the number of square meters on which it is necessary to mount the heating element.

Infrared heating types

Rod type of heating

A kind of infrared floors is a rod electric warm floor. It resembles a rope ladder with wooden or metal rungs. But a rod with a heating element is used as crossbars.

Underfloor heating is provided by this rod. And as a "rope" a polymer is used that can be cut to carry out the installation. However, the cut polymer will need to be fixed into the circuit, as it plays the role of a conductor.


Film type of heating

Electric floor heating can also have a film look. In this case, the heating of surfaces occurs due to infrared radiation. The elements responsible for heating transmit a thermal signal over short distances, heating what is next to them. These elements are made of carbon paste, and copper wires, which are enclosed in a film, are responsible for heating it. For laying, the film version is most often used, since it is easy to install.


Film option

The film floor has a very small thickness, and therefore it can also be used where ceilings have a limited height.

Thermal sensor for electric floor

If you decide to install electric underfloor heating in the house, then you need to thoroughly prepare for this. In addition to materials such as concrete, flooring and other building materials, you need to purchase the right set of underfloor heating and additional elements that will control the system.

These elements are:

  1. Temperature sensor - it shows the temperature data.
  2. Thermostat - it is necessary to set the temperature to which the element will heat up.

Both of these elements work in pairs, as soon as the temperature sensor detects the temperature to which the elements have heated up, the thermostat receives a command and turns off further heating.

Modern thermostats can be equipped with various parts that allow you to mount an electronic underfloor heating. In this option, you can set the heating and shutdown temperature, and the data can be stored once, further control will be taken over by the thermostat system.


heat sensor

In new models of the device, control can be carried out remotely by installing a SIM card. That is, in fact, the control sensor is transferred to the phone.

By means of an SMS message, you can set the time to turn on and turn on the heating, the temperature of the floor heating.

Also, you can turn off the entire system, if necessary.

Calculation of the power of underfloor heating

Before choosing a warm floor, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the power of the system, so that it can heat the home. First you need to decide on the mode in which the heated floor from electricity will be used. If the floor will be the main source of heat, then a complex calculation scheme is used. If the floor is used as an additional source, then the calculations in this case are much simpler.

When using a warm floor as the main heating system, an accurate technological calculation is needed, which should take into account such points as the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, the number of doors and windows, and possible heat losses. At the same time, when the area is calculated, you need to pay attention to the furniture that will be placed in the room. Warm floors must be laid on those spaces that are free from furniture.

An exception to this condition is the heating rod elements. They can be laid over the entire area, as they are self-adjusting.


When calculating, it is important to correctly calculate the possible heat loss. Close attention should be paid to these data, since incorrect calculations will lead to the fact that such a system simply will not be able to cope with the heating of the room and the house will be cold. Possible heat losses are calculated using special tables. It is best to entrust these calculations to specialists. They will more accurately calculate the required power of the system.

If the electric floor heating will be used as an additional source of heat, then the necessary calculations can be made independently. In this calculation, it is necessary to take into account the type of floor used, resistive or infrared, the laying area, that is, the area on which the heating elements will be located and the power of the wire.

Laying rules

Before you start laying floors, you must familiarize yourself with the laying rules. It is necessary to strictly follow the instructions, then you can guarantee the correct and accurate operation of the entire system.

These requirements include the following:

  • Before laying, it is necessary to install a thermally insulating layer. This is necessary for all types of floors, as part of the heat energy will not go down. In this case, heat loss will be minimal, and floor heating will also occur faster. In this way, electricity costs can be reduced.
  • When placing floors, the location of furniture must be taken into account, heating elements cannot be placed under them, except for rod floors.
  • From the walls there should be indents of 5 cm, and from heaters (batteries) at least 10 cm.
  • When laying, it is necessary to observe the wire pitch, and also not to allow the wires to cross.
  • During installation, it is important to ensure that there are as few cuts for turns as possible. Thus, the integrity of the system is not violated. All incisions must be carefully insulated. If this rule is not observed, power is lost, and there is also the possibility of a short circuit.

  • Connections of small pieces of the floor are also undesirable, the minimum section length should be at least 50 cm. When buying a warm floor, it is better to take it with a margin.

It is imperative to install an RCD device, it will turn off the heat supply in case of problems. For example, if power is lost, the RCD will disconnect the system from electricity.

All floor installation work is best left to a professional electrician.

Also, for electric floor heating, it is better to allocate a separate line where only this system will be connected. Also, it is better to bring the system to a separate machine, in case of problems with electricity or the floor itself, you can de-energize the system with this device.

Installation of a warm electric floor

Before choosing electric underfloor heating, it is better to clarify what kind of flooring is planned to be laid and how the base for the underfloor heating will be prepared. Already depending on these data and buy a floor heating system.

There are three ways to mount the floor:

  1. Screed installation.
  2. Mounting on a screed, but fixing with tiles.
  3. Installation under flooring, but not under tiles.

If it is necessary to install an electric underfloor heating in a screed or under a tile, then you will have to choose cable systems or rod floors.

Laying the film floor is only allowed under the floor covering. Moisture damages this floor. Therefore, it is desirable to lay it in rooms, and not in sanitary facilities.

The installation itself is almost the same:

  1. A layout plan is drawn up, taking into account the location of furniture and indents. The plan is best done on graph paper with respect to scale.
  2. A layer of waterproofing and a layer of insulation are laid, if necessary.
  3. The markup is transferred to the prepared base.
  4. According to the markup, the floor is laid. All places that are cut, if necessary, must be insulated. Also, the position of the temperature sensor and thermostat is determined. The latter is installed on the wall and from the place of its installation it is necessary to lower the strobe to the floor.
  5. After laying all the elements, check the resistance.
  6. A pipe is laid in the strobe, one end of which is connected to a thermostat, and the other end contains a temperature sensor. The end of the pipe with the temperature sensor is placed in the middle of the nearest heating elements.

Electric heating layer cake

Verification work

After these works have been carried out, it is necessary to check the operability of the sensor and the thermostat, once again the resistance and the system are completely de-energized, and the regulator is removed. Then, the screed is poured, the tiles or flooring are laid. Moreover, if a screed is planned, then first they wait for the concrete to dry, then they check the performance of the system again, and then they mount the floor covering.

It is worth checking how the temperature sensor is removed from the pipe, this is necessary so that later it can be replaced without problems if necessary.

Energy saving

The electric floor heating system has its pros and cons, which are described above. But, with proper design and use, this system will cause only positive emotions. Do not be afraid of a large consumption of electricity, and, as a result, an increase in payments. With a reasonable approach to use, the number of kilowatts will not increase much, and the heat in the house will be constant. This effect is achieved by using the floor only during hours when someone is at home.

Also, it will not be superfluous to think over the insulation of problem areas: doors, windows, balconies. Thus, it is possible to minimize heat loss, respectively, and the system itself will not work at full capacity. The effect of the work done can be seen on the heating bills.

To increase the comfort in the house, many property owners install underfloor heating. In our article, we will get acquainted with the varieties of such structures, describe how to choose heating elements and carry out their installation.

According to experts, electric underfloor heating is performed in two main varieties: cable and film (infrared). Let's take a brief look at each of the described technologies. As the name implies, in the first design, a cable is used as a heating element.

The wiring is laid manually with a certain step, and near the enclosing structures, the cables are mounted at a smaller distance relative to each other, less often in warmer places (when using a film, this scheme is not used).

Cables can be single or double stranded, although the latter type is more commonly used. Experts note that the energy consumption of the heating element will depend entirely on the thermostat settings. The design of the electric underfloor heating may include self-regulating cables that set the heating temperature regardless of the controller settings.

A feature of using an infrared floor is the fact that the generated thermal energy is not transferred to air masses, but to surrounding objects that absorb and give off heat. Thanks to these qualities, it is possible to achieve uniform heating of the premises. Such a heating element as a film has a small thickness compared to a cable, which affects the size of the screed and the height of the premises. In addition, infrared floor heating is much more efficient than its predecessor.

The film can be laid under any type of floor covering. If the heating system is mounted under tiles, then the base base must be leveled with sheets of drywall or plywood. This is due to the fact that the materials under consideration have a low thermal conductivity and this will improve heat transfer. The main disadvantage of the infrared floor is the increased cost compared to the analogue.

How to choose electric underfloor heating

The choice of any of the described space heating systems is influenced by many factors. First you need to pay attention to the use of the structure - as the main source of heating or as an auxiliary element. In the first case, it is recommended to use cable underfloor heating, which is most often installed under the tiles laid in the bathroom.

When using such a system, the owner of an apartment or a country house can save a significant amount of money on heating. It should be noted that the additional thickness of the screed in the described design will make the heating of the surface more uniform. There is one small drawback in the system, it is much more difficult to lay cables than to mount a film.

If a warm floor is used as an additional source of heat, then it is recommended to use electric mats for its installation. Such a heating device is often used in small rooms that do not have central heating. According to experienced, the infrared floor can be laid under a laminate, as well as under linoleum and other types of flooring.

The second nuance of choice is taking into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room where the warm floor will be installed. In order for the system to work with maximum efficiency, its area must cover at least 70% of the usable surface. It is not advisable to mount heating elements in places where furniture is installed. In this regard, the layout of the rooms must be done in advance before installing the floor.

How to choose a warm floor so that it does not affect the load of the electrical network? Particular attention should be paid to the operating modes of the system. You can control the surface heating temperature using a thermostat. Also make sure that the electrical network of the apartment or country house can withstand the load from the heating system. For each square meter of a warm floor, from 100 to 160 watts of power will be consumed. If the warm floor is used as the main source of heat, then the power increases to 180 watts / m2.

Cable underfloor heating for the bathroom

As we have already said, the “warm floor” system can be installed in virtually any room of the apartment, but it is especially necessary for the bathroom. While taking a shower in winter, a person’s feet move over cold tiles, which causes some discomfort and not only that, but also the possibility of a cold. Ceramic tiles are considered the main type of bathroom flooring. This material is always cold, but it can be heated to a certain temperature.

Principle of operation

Cable underfloor heating starts working after the thermostat is turned on at a certain temperature. After connecting the system to the mains, the cable begins to warm up, which transfers heat to the screed and tile. Electricity consumption depends on the set temperature, but to quickly warm up the surface, the regulator must be set closer to the maximum position, then set the required indicators. The released heat will be repelled from the substrate and begin to warm up the screed, and then the tile. After a while, the floor covering will become warm and comfortable to move.

Foundation preparation

You can lay the cable with your own hands, but the first stage of such work will be a thorough leveling of the base. The fact is that the heating elements must be laid on a perfectly flat surface. In addition, the base layer is cleaned of debris and construction tools, and all contaminants present are removed.

If the base surface for some reason turned out to be uneven, then it is necessary to remove all the bumps with a perforator or other tool. Pits, cracks and chips are filled with cement-sand mortar, if necessary, the base is leveled using a screed. If the base layer consists of wooden boards or plywood sheets, all irregularities are also hidden with quick-drying mixtures.

Leveling the subfloor prevents damage to the heating system during operation. The laid cable can rest against bumps or fall into holes, which will lead to power outages. It is noticed that such breakdowns are quite difficult to eliminate.

Substrate

After the base layer is leveled with a screed, you can start laying the substrate or insulation (penofol is usually used for this purpose). This material plays a huge role in the construction of a warm floor, its surface reflects heat rays in the right direction, making the heating process more economical. Penofol is made in the form of a self-adhesive gasket with a foil coating up to 14 micrometers thick. Such a product is distinguished by a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity, which is equal to 0.05 W \ m * C.

The material in question is supplied to hardware stores in rolls, it is laid on the surface of the base in such a way that the foil is directed to the top (repels heat rays). The joints of the panels are glued with construction tape. When working with penophenol, indent from the walls and corners of the premises within 5-10 centimeters.

Cabling

After laying the substrate, you can proceed to the next stage of work, cable installation. This element is placed on a mounting tape, which is pre-fixed on the base surface. Some manufacturers can supply the market with ready-made structures in which the heating cables are already installed in the frame with a certain pitch. Such products are supplied to hardware stores in the form of rolls.

Mounting mesh can also be supplied separately from the cable. Such a structural element increases the strength of the entire system, makes it possible to lay conductors with a certain step in a zigzag direction. In most cases, the distance between the turns is chosen as a multiple of 20-25 centimeters.

Thermostat installation and connection

Next, you need to install a thermostat in the "warm floor" system and connect all the details. Such a device as a temperature sensor is installed in any convenient place outside the bathroom. The thermostat is usually mounted at a height of 30 centimeters from the floor surface, it is connected to the heating elements using a wire that is installed in a corrugated tube.

Now you can check the performance of the system using a tester for this purpose. If everything is fine, you can proceed to the screed device. The leveling layer is usually made of a cement-sand mortar or a quick-drying mixture. In any of these cases, the thickness of the screed should be in the range of 3 to 5 centimeters.

In order to achieve a perfectly aligned base for the future flooring, the solution is poured into the gaps between the pre-exposed beacons. After that, the mixture is equalized by the rule. After carrying out such work, the integrity of the system is checked with a tester and the solution is left until it reaches brand strength. This usually happens within 28 days.

Energy consumption

The connection of heating elements to the network is carried out only a month after the screed is made, since overheating of the material can cause cracks on the surface. Electricity consumption per m2 of coverage will depend on the power of the power cable, as well as the density of its installation. Such indicators can vary from 100 to 200 W / m2.

The price of cable underfloor heating

Many owners of city apartments or suburban real estate are interested in the price per m2 of underfloor heating. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the cost of materials and labor costs of workers. So the price of an average quality thermostat ranges from 3,000 to 4,000 rubles, the cost of mats with a laid cable depends on the area:

  • 2m2 - 2800 rubles;
  • 3m2 - 5300 rubles;
  • 4m2 - 8000 rubles.

To the specified data should be added the cost of the services of the master. Professional builders will take about 450 rubles for each square meter of laid underfloor heating for their work.

Infrared warm floor

The considered type of heating has a positive effect on human health and this is confirmed by numerous user reviews. The fact is that the heated surface radiates heat in the infrared range and this is better perceived by the body. The temperature in the room can be several degrees lower than the standard values, but this is not felt in any way, which ultimately leads to energy savings. Another advantage of the infrared floor is ionizing radiation, which leads to the destruction of pathogenic bacteria and viruses. Despite the huge number of advantages, the heating system under consideration has one significant drawback - this is a high cost.

Device

You can make infrared heating using a special film or rod mats. These two elements are made in the form of rolls with conductive bars made of copper or silver. Stress is transferred through these tires to areas with soldered carbon, which contributes to the release of a certain amount of heat. The strips are divided into several pieces in sections that have dividing lines. According to these designations, it is possible to cut the element into smaller parts, which is very convenient during installation. The width of standard products, depending on the manufacturer and brand, ranges from 50 to 100 centimeters, the film thickness varies from 0.2 to 2 millimeters.

We figured out the underfloor heating device, now we will get acquainted with the procedure for its installation. In this case, the film can be laid on a pre-leveled base without a substrate. If the heating system is used in the bathroom, sheets of drywall or plywood are laid for protection. Installing the film will not be particularly difficult, even an inexperienced builder can handle the installation of a warm floor, and you can make a floor in a small room in one working day.

At the initial stage of work, it is necessary to draw up a plan of the room on a scale, highlight the areas where the furniture will be located. The next important nuance of installing the coating is the choice of a place to fix the thermostat. Wiring is connected to this element of the system, a temperature sensor and a film heater are connected. Next, the rolls are placed on the base surface in such a way that they overlap the usable floor area as much as possible and do not intersect with each other.

Electricity consumption

One of the important nuances of choosing a film floor is the consumption of electricity per m2 of usable area. In this case, there are two options for choosing heating systems. If the coating is used for additional heating of the room, then a film with a power of 150 W / m2 will be enough. In the case when the system is used as the main source of heating, more powerful models are needed, not less than 250 W / m2. The maximum power of a modern underfloor heating is 400W/m2.

Another factor in the selection of power is the type of coating used. This is especially true for the floor in the bathroom or kitchen, if it is made of ceramic tiles. Ceramics absorb heat well, therefore, if the surface is not warm enough, the surface will be felt by a person’s feet as cold.

Film laying

At the initial stage of installation, it is necessary to lay expanded polystyrene plates about 1 cm thick along the perimeter to a height of up to 10 centimeters (the insulation will prevent heat from being released through the building envelope). Insulation is also laid on the base surface; to increase the efficiency of the system, foil is laid on the coating. This material will direct heat flows upwards, which will ultimately reduce the financial costs of heating.

Further, according to the drawn scheme, the film is laid on the surface, while the rolls should be directed downwards with a copper strip. The top should have a matte finish, not a glossy finish. During the laying of each of the structural elements, make sure that air does not accumulate between them. If necessary, the rolls are cut according to the applied marking lines (indicated by a dotted line and a scissors symbol).

According to experts, it is best to carry out the installation of mats if they are deployed with the part with contacts in the direction of the thermostat. During laying, position the strips in such a way that there is a gap of several centimeters between them. If linoleum will be used as a floor covering, the distance between adjacent mats is chosen as a multiple of 1 centimeter. Please note that the tires must not touch or overlap each other under any circumstances.

When all the elements are laid on the surface, you can start connecting the underfloor heating. This procedure is usually carried out using the cable that comes with the heating system. A contact is made on a copper or silver conductive strip in such a way that one part of it is on top, the other is below the core. We install contacts on all tires and crimp with pliers. From the side of the film opposite to the location of the thermostat, the bus is covered with insulation. After that, all the strips are fastened together and the surface of the insulation, for this, adhesive tape is used.

Mounting the thermostat

The next step is to install the thermostat. They make a strobe in the wall and start the conductors from the film coating. Under one of the strips in the insulation material, a recess is made for the sensor. After fixing on the surface, this device is connected to a thermostat. The conductors are stripped and fastened to the contact part, the exposed areas are carefully isolated.

Connecting the whole system

The electrical connection to the thermostat must be carried out by a qualified person. After the current is applied, the system is tested, for this, the temperature on the device is set within 30 degrees. After some time, the fastening of the contact part and the quality of the strip heating are checked. If no problems are found, you can start laying the finish coat.

Ceramic tiles can be laid on a small layer of glue (within 1-2 centimeters), but a plastic film must be laid under the parquet or laminate, which will be used as waterproofing. If the coating is soft, then the surface of the subfloor can be leveled with plywood sheets or OSB boards. These elements are attached to the surface with dowels or screws. When fixing such parts, it is necessary to ensure that the fasteners do not fall into the conductive strips. After that, they begin laying a soft coating, carpet or linoleum.

Price

As we have already said, infrared floor heating has a significant cost, let's look at this issue in more detail. So, the price of a thermostat, depending on the model, will range from 3,000 to 4,000 rubles. The film itself has the following cost: 2m2 - 3800 rubles, 3m2 - 5500 rubles, 5m2 - 9000 rubles. The cost of the master's services (if the work is carried out by a highly qualified specialist) is from 500 rubles / m2.



The desire of a person to create comfortable living conditions for himself has led to the development of various heating systems. Among them, recently, structures built into the floor and powered by electricity have become increasingly popular.

Types of electric underfloor heating

Manufacturers produce various modifications that can be conditionally combined according to the type of heating element:

1. cable heating;

2. heating mats;

3. film infrared emitter;

4. liquid-electric designs.

The physical principles underlying the operation of an electric underfloor heating

Cable heating with resistive cores

During the transmission of electricity based on the Joule-Lenz law, heat is released. This pattern is the basis for the operation of heating elements.

If metals and their cross section are selected in ordinary wires in order to reduce heat losses at maximum load, then in the underfloor heating system, structures are created that can release the maximum amount of thermal energy for a long time without compromising performance.

To do this, heating elements are created in the form of cable structures, consisting of:

    a conductive filament of a resistive type that generates heat;

    a layer of Teflon insulation made of heat-resistant PVC plastic.

Such cables can be made with one internal conductive core or two. They are used for various mounting and connection methods. Manufacturers give them a guarantee of 20 years or more, subject to the rules of operation.

The two-core cable has an additional layer of insulation located between the screen braid of thin copper wire and the dielectric heat-resistant coating of the cores. One of the cores has the function of a heating element, and the second, as a simple conductive, is placed parallel to the first. Such their location significantly reduces the level of radiation of the electromagnetic field and its effect on the environment.

A typical design of a resistive cable is shown in the picture.

During the operation of these structures, the balance of heat generated from the electric current passing through the conductors and its removal to the heated floor must be observed. To do this, all areas of the floor adjacent to the cable are created with a homogeneous structure that provides uniform thermal and mechanical loads.

The resistive cable is poured with a cement-sand screed of a certain thickness, which can be additionally covered with a layer of ceramic tiles, laminate or other floor materials.

Cables with self-regulating heating conductors

Self-regulating heating cable designs can be used in the underfloor heating system. They have ordinary current-carrying, and not heating, cores, between which there is a semiconductor matrix with a huge number of independent elements. Its dielectric properties are determined by these semiconductors, which react to changes in the temperature around them.

When some section of the self-regulating cable is cooled, a structure is created inside the matrix due to semiconductors with a large number of tracks for the current to pass through them, which heats the cable and its surrounding layers.

At an average temperature, the structure of semiconductors increases the electrical resistance, reducing the conditions for the flow of current through them and, thereby, somewhat reduces the release of heat.

If a section of the cable is very hot, then the number of paths for the passage of current in it is sharply limited, reducing its electrical conductivity.

In this way, the temperature of the heating of the environment is regulated even without a thermostat and temperature sensors. Self-regulating cables are more convenient to use because they do not need to create a homogeneous structure for heat transfer, like their resistive counterparts. Their individual sections can be subjected to various temperature loads.

Cable mats

At first, when installing a warm floor, resistive cables were simply laid out on the floor in the form of a snake, and then fixed with fasteners. This technology is still used for single-core and two-core structures.

However, manufacturers began to produce cable mats. An example of such a design is shown in the picture, where the cable itself is already woven into a soft dielectric mesh in a certain way. It no longer needs to be carefully laid out. It is enough just to roll out the folded roll along the length of the room for subsequent fixation with a solution.

Cold leads for connecting the cable mat to the electrical circuit are included in the scope of delivery. They are connected through special adapters-couplings. Connection "directly" is prohibited by the installation technology.

If it becomes necessary to turn the direction of the layout, then the mounting mesh can be easily cut with ordinary scissors without touching the cable, which then simply turns in the right direction at any angle.

In this way, the layout of the mat in any room is facilitated in an even layer. In this case, it is easier to avoid overlapping individual sections of the cable with each other.

Film infrared floor heating

This technology is based on the use of thin heating elements through which an electric current is passed.

They are made with carbon strips located between two layers of a special film. Carbon fiber (CFRP) is applied by nano-spraying with a layer thickness measured to one micron, and insulated on both sides with a thin, but very strong polymer film with high dielectric properties.

Carbon strips are connected to copper bars, which serve as conductors for supplying voltage.

Heating, carried out by infrared rays from a warm floor, by its nature is no different from natural heating by the light of the sun. Only the floor temperature is brought to 30 ÷ 35 degrees and is directed from the bottom up.

Fluid-electric designs

Electric-water developments of a warm floor combine electric heating of filaments with subsequent heat transfer through a coolant - water, located in a sealed tube made of plastic with high-strength mechanical characteristics.

The entire structure is assembled as a seven-core cable using chromium-nickel alloys for the filaments and sheathed with silicone and Teflon.

The silicone layer can withstand temperatures up to 280 degrees, having high dielectric properties. The Teflon coating creates a barrier to water penetration and is highly resistant to chemicals.

The liquid filling the cable successfully withstands even twenty-degree frost without freezing, but it quickly boils when passing through the electric current filaments. During its boiling, heat is transferred faster to the environment. It provides .

The transfer of heat from the heating filaments into the boiling liquid and further into the underfloor heating environment protects the chromium-nickel alloy from overheating, prevents it from burning out, and allows it to be used for a long time.

Since when the liquid boils inside the sealed shell, an increased gas pressure is created, a special absorption system is used to reduce it, which reduces this effect and ensures safe operation.

Tubular cable housings made of structured mesh polyethylene have:

    resistance to cooling at low temperatures;

    crack resistance;

    high impact strength.

The design and composition of the electric floor heating

The room to be heated must be protected from constant drafts and heat leaks. All heating elements for this are mounted only on a layer of thermal insulation, which prevents energy losses for heating the floor slabs and escaping into the atmosphere.

The heating cable, made according to one of the above schemes, is located on the heat-insulating layer, fastened with a mounting tape. Inside his snake, at the same distance between the turns, a corrugated tube is laid out with a temperature sensor placed in it, which will control the degree of heating of the floor.

This tube is sealed at one end. It is designed not only to accommodate the temperature sensor, but also for the possibility of its convenient replacement in case of breakage.

All laid heating elements together with this tube will be filled with a cement-sand screed. Its thickness depends on the design of the cable and must be carefully made in an even layer. Blanks are not allowed. Ceramic tiles are glued on top or another floor covering is mounted.

At a convenient height for work, the wall of the room is located, which controls the operation of the warm floor in automatic mode. When connecting it, you will need to bring wires from:

    electrical panel power cable;

    heating elements;

    temperature sensor.

To carry out hidden wiring, it is necessary to provide cable channels or carry out wall chasing.

Schemes for connecting underfloor heating elements to electrical wiring

It is important to remember that the installation and assembly of the circuit must be completed by checking the operation of electrical equipment under voltage before pouring the heating cables with a fixing solution. At this stage, it is easier to troubleshoot the problems that have arisen.

Re-inclusion in the work will be carried out after the complete solidification of the solution in a month. Before the screed will not harden and the cable will be damaged.

An example of connecting a warm floor, which includes two sets of heating cables and one thermostat with a sensor, is shown in the picture.

In the electrical panel, an RCD is connected from the circuit breaker. It protects the entire circuit from possible leakage currents through the electrical equipment cases, which are tied.

The temperature sensor is connected by a cable to the thermostat, which is connected to the power circuits through the RCD and, at the same time, controls the operation of the contactor through a separate cable. The output circuits of the contactor are connected to the heating elements using a junction box.

The inclusion of a contactor in the circuit allows you to simultaneously control the operation of several heating sections and reduce the load on the electrical circuits of the thermostat.

The simplest mechanical or electrical thermostats allow you to set only the temperature limits for regulating the heating of the floor covering.

More sophisticated electronically controlled models have the ability to use a time-based weekly schedule to operate the heaters at user-defined times of the day. Due to this, electricity consumption for floor heating is reduced when the owners are absent from the apartment.

The choice of flooring

    a natural stone;

    ceramic tiles;

    porcelain tile.

They best transfer heat through themselves into the room. It is also allowed to use wood, parquet, laminate and other materials. However, they have poorer heat transfer and may reduce the heating effect.

Coating deformation

Heating elements create temperature fluctuations, at which the floor covering slightly changes its dimensions. To avoid its deformation, small gaps should be created for the laminate elements. You can not press it close to the walls and attach it to the baseboard. When exposed to heat, the floor must expand freely and remain perfectly level.

Floor insulation

The choice of material for it allows the rational use of electricity, as it affects heat loss. In order to create comfortable heating, foil insulation is used, consisting of foamed polymeric materials with a layer thickness of 3 to 10 mm. Its use saves electricity from 10 to 20%.

The use of hard grades of expanded polystyrene with a layer thickness of 3 cm and polymer-coated foil can reduce losses by up to 30%.

Electricity consumption

The efficiency of any electrical structure is determined by the amount of electricity spent on it. In order for the underfloor heating system to satisfy your needs, determine the tasks for it, which can be:

    constant heating of the room;

    floor heating only in the morning and evening when the owner is at home;

    maintaining a stabilized temperature during the day for a comfortable stay on the floor of small children;

    any other conditions.

Determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and calculate the approximate cost of electricity for 1 hour of its operation or day, week, month. To do this, you can use the average operating data of the resistive heating cable to create comfortable conditions:

    in dry rooms, 120 W per 1 m2 is consumed;

    in wet rooms - 140 W per 1 m2.

For example, a room 2 by 3 meters for one hour of operation of a warm floor will consume 2x3x0.12 = 0.72 kW. With continuous operation for 10 hours, the power consumption will be 7.2 kW.

The electricity consumption of a film infrared floor and a water-electric one is a little more economical.

maintainability

Although manufacturers guarantee the operation of a warm floor for a long time, however, it is best to foresee the occurrence of breakdowns of individual parts and their elimination by replacing them at the project stage. For this, the methods of connecting a temperature sensor with a thermostat should exclude the opening of a dried cement-sand floor screed if it becomes necessary to repair them.

Replacing the film near the infrared floor should not create unsolvable issues with complex disassembly of the floor covering.

For Fluid-Electric Modules, fluid and heating element replacement can be done through a dedicated junction box. It is mounted on the line of the finishing floor screed. And in the event of a violation of the integrity of the pipe, a small amount of leaked fluid will indicate the location of the damage. It is simply cut out after opening. Then couplings are applied and a double-sided fitting is connected.

To increase the comfort in the house, many property owners install underfloor heating. In our article, we will get acquainted with the varieties of such structures, describe how to choose heating elements and carry out their installation.

According to experts, electric underfloor heating is performed in two main varieties: cable and film (infrared). Let's take a brief look at each of the described technologies. As the name implies, in the first design, a cable is used as a heating element.

The wiring is laid manually with a certain step, and near the enclosing structures, the cables are mounted at a smaller distance relative to each other, less often in warmer places (when using a film, this scheme is not used).

Cables can be single or double stranded, although the latter type is more commonly used. Experts note that the energy consumption of the heating element will depend entirely on the thermostat settings. The design of the electric underfloor heating may include self-regulating cables that set the heating temperature regardless of the controller settings.

A feature of using an infrared floor is the fact that the generated thermal energy is not transferred to air masses, but to surrounding objects that absorb and give off heat. Thanks to these qualities, it is possible to achieve uniform heating of the premises. Such a heating element as a film has a small thickness compared to a cable, which affects the size of the screed and the height of the premises. In addition, infrared floor heating is much more efficient than its predecessor.

The film can be laid under any type of floor covering. If the heating system is mounted under tiles, then the base base must be leveled with sheets of drywall or plywood. This is due to the fact that the materials under consideration have a low thermal conductivity and this will improve heat transfer. The main disadvantage of the infrared floor is the increased cost compared to the analogue.

How to choose electric underfloor heating

The choice of any of the described space heating systems is influenced by many factors. First you need to pay attention to the use of the structure - as the main source of heating or as an auxiliary element. In the first case, it is recommended to use cable underfloor heating, which is most often installed under the tiles laid in the bathroom.

When using such a system, the owner of an apartment or a country house can save a significant amount of money on heating. It should be noted that the additional thickness of the screed in the described design will make the heating of the surface more uniform. There is one small drawback in the system, it is much more difficult to lay cables than to mount a film.

If a warm floor is used as an additional source of heat, then it is recommended to use electric mats for its installation. Such a heating device is often used in small rooms that do not have central heating. According to experienced, the infrared floor can be laid under a laminate, as well as under linoleum and other types of flooring.

The second nuance of choice is taking into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room where the warm floor will be installed. In order for the system to work with maximum efficiency, its area must cover at least 70% of the usable surface. It is not advisable to mount heating elements in places where furniture is installed. In this regard, the layout of the rooms must be done in advance before installing the floor.

How to choose a warm floor so that it does not affect the load of the electrical network? Particular attention should be paid to the operating modes of the system. You can control the surface heating temperature using a thermostat. Also make sure that the electrical network of the apartment or country house can withstand the load from the heating system. For each square meter of a warm floor, from 100 to 160 watts of power will be consumed. If the warm floor is used as the main source of heat, then the power increases to 180 watts / m2.

Cable underfloor heating for the bathroom

As we have already said, the “warm floor” system can be installed in virtually any room of the apartment, but it is especially necessary for the bathroom. While taking a shower in winter, a person’s feet move over cold tiles, which causes some discomfort and not only that, but also the possibility of a cold. Ceramic tiles are considered the main type of bathroom flooring. This material is always cold, but it can be heated to a certain temperature.

Principle of operation

Cable underfloor heating starts working after the thermostat is turned on at a certain temperature. After connecting the system to the mains, the cable begins to warm up, which transfers heat to the screed and tile. Electricity consumption depends on the set temperature, but to quickly warm up the surface, the regulator must be set closer to the maximum position, then set the required indicators. The released heat will be repelled from the substrate and begin to warm up the screed, and then the tile. After a while, the floor covering will become warm and comfortable to move.

Foundation preparation

You can lay the cable with your own hands, but the first stage of such work will be a thorough leveling of the base. The fact is that the heating elements must be laid on a perfectly flat surface. In addition, the base layer is cleaned of debris and construction tools, and all contaminants present are removed.

If the base surface for some reason turned out to be uneven, then it is necessary to remove all the bumps with a perforator or other tool. Pits, cracks and chips are filled with cement-sand mortar, if necessary, the base is leveled using a screed. If the base layer consists of wooden boards or plywood sheets, all irregularities are also hidden with quick-drying mixtures.

Leveling the subfloor prevents damage to the heating system during operation. The laid cable can rest against bumps or fall into holes, which will lead to power outages. It is noticed that such breakdowns are quite difficult to eliminate.

Substrate

After the base layer is leveled with a screed, you can start laying the substrate or insulation (penofol is usually used for this purpose). This material plays a huge role in the construction of a warm floor, its surface reflects heat rays in the right direction, making the heating process more economical. Penofol is made in the form of a self-adhesive gasket with a foil coating up to 14 micrometers thick. Such a product is distinguished by a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity, which is equal to 0.05 W \ m * C.

The material in question is supplied to hardware stores in rolls, it is laid on the surface of the base in such a way that the foil is directed to the top (repels heat rays). The joints of the panels are glued with construction tape. When working with penophenol, indent from the walls and corners of the premises within 5-10 centimeters.

Cabling

After laying the substrate, you can proceed to the next stage of work, cable installation. This element is placed on a mounting tape, which is pre-fixed on the base surface. Some manufacturers can supply the market with ready-made structures in which the heating cables are already installed in the frame with a certain pitch. Such products are supplied to hardware stores in the form of rolls.

Mounting mesh can also be supplied separately from the cable. Such a structural element increases the strength of the entire system, makes it possible to lay conductors with a certain step in a zigzag direction. In most cases, the distance between the turns is chosen as a multiple of 20-25 centimeters.

Thermostat installation and connection

Next, you need to install a thermostat in the "warm floor" system and connect all the details. Such a device as a temperature sensor is installed in any convenient place outside the bathroom. The thermostat is usually mounted at a height of 30 centimeters from the floor surface, it is connected to the heating elements using a wire that is installed in a corrugated tube.

Now you can check the performance of the system using a tester for this purpose. If everything is fine, you can proceed to the screed device. The leveling layer is usually made of a cement-sand mortar or a quick-drying mixture. In any of these cases, the thickness of the screed should be in the range of 3 to 5 centimeters.

In order to achieve a perfectly aligned base for the future flooring, the solution is poured into the gaps between the pre-exposed beacons. After that, the mixture is equalized by the rule. After carrying out such work, the integrity of the system is checked with a tester and the solution is left until it reaches brand strength. This usually happens within 28 days.

Energy consumption

The connection of heating elements to the network is carried out only a month after the screed is made, since overheating of the material can cause cracks on the surface. Electricity consumption per m2 of coverage will depend on the power of the power cable, as well as the density of its installation. Such indicators can vary from 100 to 200 W / m2.

The price of cable underfloor heating

Many owners of city apartments or suburban real estate are interested in the price per m2 of underfloor heating. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the cost of materials and labor costs of workers. So the price of an average quality thermostat ranges from 3,000 to 4,000 rubles, the cost of mats with a laid cable depends on the area:

  • 2m2 - 2800 rubles;
  • 3m2 - 5300 rubles;
  • 4m2 - 8000 rubles.

To the specified data should be added the cost of the services of the master. Professional builders will take about 450 rubles for each square meter of laid underfloor heating for their work.

Infrared warm floor

The considered type of heating has a positive effect on human health and this is confirmed by numerous user reviews. The fact is that the heated surface radiates heat in the infrared range and this is better perceived by the body. The temperature in the room can be several degrees lower than the standard values, but this is not felt in any way, which ultimately leads to energy savings. Another advantage of the infrared floor is ionizing radiation, which leads to the destruction of pathogenic bacteria and viruses. Despite the huge number of advantages, the heating system under consideration has one significant drawback - this is a high cost.

Device

You can make infrared heating using a special film or rod mats. These two elements are made in the form of rolls with conductive bars made of copper or silver. Stress is transferred through these tires to areas with soldered carbon, which contributes to the release of a certain amount of heat. The strips are divided into several pieces in sections that have dividing lines. According to these designations, it is possible to cut the element into smaller parts, which is very convenient during installation. The width of standard products, depending on the manufacturer and brand, ranges from 50 to 100 centimeters, the film thickness varies from 0.2 to 2 millimeters.

We figured out the underfloor heating device, now we will get acquainted with the procedure for its installation. In this case, the film can be laid on a pre-leveled base without a substrate. If the heating system is used in the bathroom, sheets of drywall or plywood are laid for protection. Installing the film will not be particularly difficult, even an inexperienced builder can handle the installation of a warm floor, and you can make a floor in a small room in one working day.

At the initial stage of work, it is necessary to draw up a plan of the room on a scale, highlight the areas where the furniture will be located. The next important nuance of installing the coating is the choice of a place to fix the thermostat. Wiring is connected to this element of the system, a temperature sensor and a film heater are connected. Next, the rolls are placed on the base surface in such a way that they overlap the usable floor area as much as possible and do not intersect with each other.

Electricity consumption

One of the important nuances of choosing a film floor is the consumption of electricity per m2 of usable area. In this case, there are two options for choosing heating systems. If the coating is used for additional heating of the room, then a film with a power of 150 W / m2 will be enough. In the case when the system is used as the main source of heating, more powerful models are needed, not less than 250 W / m2. The maximum power of a modern underfloor heating is 400W/m2.

Another factor in the selection of power is the type of coating used. This is especially true for the floor in the bathroom or kitchen, if it is made of ceramic tiles. Ceramics absorb heat well, therefore, if the surface is not warm enough, the surface will be felt by a person’s feet as cold.

Film laying

At the initial stage of installation, it is necessary to lay expanded polystyrene plates about 1 cm thick along the perimeter to a height of up to 10 centimeters (the insulation will prevent heat from being released through the building envelope). Insulation is also laid on the base surface; to increase the efficiency of the system, foil is laid on the coating. This material will direct heat flows upwards, which will ultimately reduce the financial costs of heating.

Further, according to the drawn scheme, the film is laid on the surface, while the rolls should be directed downwards with a copper strip. The top should have a matte finish, not a glossy finish. During the laying of each of the structural elements, make sure that air does not accumulate between them. If necessary, the rolls are cut according to the applied marking lines (indicated by a dotted line and a scissors symbol).

According to experts, it is best to carry out the installation of mats if they are deployed with the part with contacts in the direction of the thermostat. During laying, position the strips in such a way that there is a gap of several centimeters between them. If linoleum will be used as a floor covering, the distance between adjacent mats is chosen as a multiple of 1 centimeter. Please note that the tires must not touch or overlap each other under any circumstances.

When all the elements are laid on the surface, you can start connecting the underfloor heating. This procedure is usually carried out using the cable that comes with the heating system. A contact is made on a copper or silver conductive strip in such a way that one part of it is on top, the other is below the core. We install contacts on all tires and crimp with pliers. From the side of the film opposite to the location of the thermostat, the bus is covered with insulation. After that, all the strips are fastened together and the surface of the insulation, for this, adhesive tape is used.

Mounting the thermostat

The next step is to install the thermostat. They make a strobe in the wall and start the conductors from the film coating. Under one of the strips in the insulation material, a recess is made for the sensor. After fixing on the surface, this device is connected to a thermostat. The conductors are stripped and fastened to the contact part, the exposed areas are carefully isolated.

Connecting the whole system

The electrical connection to the thermostat must be carried out by a qualified person. After the current is applied, the system is tested, for this, the temperature on the device is set within 30 degrees. After some time, the fastening of the contact part and the quality of the strip heating are checked. If no problems are found, you can start laying the finish coat.

Ceramic tiles can be laid on a small layer of glue (within 1-2 centimeters), but a plastic film must be laid under the parquet or laminate, which will be used as waterproofing. If the coating is soft, then the surface of the subfloor can be leveled with plywood sheets or OSB boards. These elements are attached to the surface with dowels or screws. When fixing such parts, it is necessary to ensure that the fasteners do not fall into the conductive strips. After that, they begin laying a soft coating, carpet or linoleum.

Price

As we have already said, infrared floor heating has a significant cost, let's look at this issue in more detail. So, the price of a thermostat, depending on the model, will range from 3,000 to 4,000 rubles. The film itself has the following cost: 2m2 - 3800 rubles, 3m2 - 5500 rubles, 5m2 - 9000 rubles. The cost of the master's services (if the work is carried out by a highly qualified specialist) is from 500 rubles / m2.



Publication date: 15-03-2015

Currently, in various living quarters, you can often find underfloor heating. The underfloor heating device is divided in such cases into two categories: electric and water heated floor.

Each of these types of warm flooring has its own characteristics. To figure out which ones, you need to understand the device of these types of floors.

Electrical cable equipped with clamp

Damper tape laying

In warm floors that run on electricity, a concept such as convection is used. The same characteristic is characteristic of all radiator heating systems. It lies in the fact that hot air heats up and rises to the level of the ceiling.

Its approximate temperature ranges from twenty-five to twenty-seven degrees Celsius. Then this air cools and settles closer to the floor level.

At this stage, its temperature is already only sixteen to eighteen degrees Celsius.

At floor level, the cooled air is again heated by the radiator unit and rises. Such a heating system, of course, provides the overall level of heat in the room, but the floor remains much colder than, for example, the ceiling.

It is not always pleasant to walk on such a floor with bare feet, especially with insufficient heating power in the winter season.

It is with the cold or coolness of the floor surface that the underfloor heating system is designed to cope. During the operation of this technology, such an uncomfortable convection is not observed.

Floor heating is uniform and constant. Only part of the required heat is located under the ceiling.

Thanks to the warm floor system, the feet are in contact with the floor surface, which has a constant temperature in the region of 20-24 degrees Celsius. This allows any resident of the house to feel as comfortable as possible without wearing slippers or socks.

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Principle of operation

Room temperature distribution

To understand the principle of operation of a warm floor, you will need to disassemble its device in more detail. To do this, you need to distinguish two main types of heated floors:

  • Electric;
  • Water.

The structure of these floors is almost the same. It lies in the fact that a special cable or pipeline is laid on the floor. Then a finishing screed is applied on top, which masks these elements, at the same time leveling the floor.

The electric cable will work on electricity, heating up, thereby heating the floor, and the pipeline will function with the help of hot water circulating in it, which will flow into it and thereby heat the flooring.

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Warm floor electric type

The main working element of an electric type warm floor is a cable. It is he who does the main work. This element has a certain resistance.

When an electric current passes through it, it heats up, transferring its high temperature to the concrete screed.

The very first modifications of heating cables were not approved by environmentalists. The reasons for such a negative attitude are the magnetic field that was created by these elements. Currently, two-core cables are used to create electric underfloor heating.

These elements also create a magnetic field, but its effect on the human body is negligible. The principle of operation of two-core cables is that one main electrical flow continues along the first core, and the opposite flow goes through the second core.

It is he who extinguishes the radiation of the oncoming magnetic flux. Such a "meeting" occurs due to the fact that adjacent turns in the heating mat are located quite close. Their step is five centimeters.

To regulate the temperature in the room and thereby create comfortable conditions in the electrical system of underfloor heating, there are special thermostats. With the help of them, if necessary, you can save a decent amount of electricity, often spent on an unnecessary increase in temperature.

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Disadvantages of electric underfloor heating

Electrical cable with clamp

  • You can turn on the heated floor only after the screed has completely dried. This will take about thirty days.
  • If a malfunction is detected or the electrical circuit is damaged, it will be necessary to destroy the screed layer, and after repairing the heating system, apply it again.
  • A warm electric floor consumes an incredible amount of electricity. It takes from 120 to 150 watts to heat 1 m². This figure will be true under the most unfavorable conditions. In less severe conditions, from 60 to 100 watts are spent on heating a square meter of floor.

As a result, according to the most minimal calculations, subject to constant temperature regulation, in order to heat the floor by the electric method, it will be necessary to spend at least 30 to 60 watts per 1 m². Such an indicator may not be affordable for everyone. Therefore, it is better to use this system in rooms with a small area or in buildings where hot water supply is not provided.

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water type

It should be noted right away that a water-heated floor differs significantly from an electric floor in terms of efficiency. The fee for light in this case will not increase to incredible heights.

I would like to note that it is strictly forbidden to connect a heated water floor to the central heating system of an apartment building.

This will greatly increase the overall load on the system. Also, such an unauthorized connection can leave neighbors without the proper amount of heat, as the water passing through the floor cools quickly.

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Coating selection

To install a water-type underfloor heating system in an ordinary apartment, you will need to certify a whole pile of documents and obtain a number of approvals. In addition, paperwork for the installation of underfloor heating can take a lot of money.

Underfloor heating scheme

For this reason, underfloor heating with water is mainly used in private houses and new types of apartment buildings. The latter have special risers for draining water in case of leakage of heating systems.

If the water heating system is assembled from copper or steel pipes, then sooner or later leaks will appear at the joints. The smudges that appear can easily flood the neighbors from below.

For this reason, it is best to use metal-plastic pipes for water floor heating. They will help to avoid this problem and will last much longer than steel structures.

If we consider the installation of water heating for the floor from an economic point of view, it can be noted that this is a rather costly undertaking.

Such an installation costs much more than an electric underfloor heating. True, the money spent on installation will pay off over time. While the electric field will require significant funds constantly.

Considering all the above arguments, we can confidently say that it is worth choosing a type, taking into account a number of factors:

  • A type of heating (not the main or main heating system);
  • heating area;
  • Possibility of connection to centralized heating.

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Underfloor heating installation

Installation of water heating for the floor is carried out in several stages. To begin with, the level of the base is determined.

The surface on which the heating system will be laid must have absolute evenness. Otherwise, the floor covering will warm up unevenly.

In total, there are two main lines of pipes in the system of water heating of the floor. The first one goes from the heating boiler to the floor heating system.

The second - returns the cooled water for reheating. Both pipes must have shut-off valves, and the ends of the pipes themselves must have manifolds. In order for the water circulation to be good, a pump is installed in the system.

Underfloor heating installation

Thanks to him, the water in the system will warm up faster.

The collectors to which the pipes are connected are pieces of pipes in which there are holes on both sides. There are two collectors in the heating system. One of them serves for the return, the second - for the supply pipe.

A supply pipe is attached to one end of the collector, and a metal-plastic tube of the heating system is attached to the other, using a fitting. The return pipe is connected to the heating system in the same way. The result should be a closed system.

It is worth noting that the manifolds and valves must be located in the cabinet. This will allow you to more conveniently control the system's capacity and, if necessary, close the valves from children under lock and key.

Before you put a system of heating pipes for the floor, you should first cover it with a layer of waterproofing. A heat insulator is placed on top of the waterproofing layer. It will help not to heat the base in vain, the temperature of which, in general, does not interest anyone.

Thanks to the thermal insulation, all the heat will go directly to the screed. If this stage of work is not carried out, then from 20 to 30 percent of useful heat can be lost daily.

If the coating is planned to be made on the first floor of the building, then the thermal insulation layer should be quite decent. Its thickness must be equal to twenty centimeters.

On the second and subsequent floors, several layers of thermal insulation will be quite enough. Glass wool, extruded foam concrete, expanded polystyrene and so on can act as heat-insulating materials.

In order for the screed to simply not crack, it is necessary to lay a reinforced mesh on the thermal insulation layer. For greater strength of the entire structure, the heating pipes will need to be attached to this element.

For fixing, an ordinary knitting wire is used. It is not necessary to fasten the pipes point-blank to the grid. Between these elements there must be a gap for thermal expansion. In addition to the wire, special tapes or clips are suitable for fastening.

The fastener step should be approximately one meter. In order for the coating to evenly warm up, the length of the pipe should not exceed one hundred meters. If this value is not enough, then two or three or more circuits will have to be used.

Two methods can be used for laying pipes:

Health check

  • Bifilar. Other names: spiral or snail;
  • Meander. Other names: zigzag or snake.

With meander laying, the first turn should be at the front door or at the window. This option is more suitable for small spaces.

When laying the pipeline using the bifilar method, the return and supply pipes are parallel to each other. The final design looks like a labyrinth in the center, which has a connection between the return and supply pipes.

The pipe laying step can vary from 10 to 30 centimeters. The exceptions are areas near entrance doors, exterior walls and windows. In such places, the step should be at least 15 centimeters.

After laying, a test run of water is carried out. The pressure in the system must be one and a half times higher than planned in the future for operation. The test should take at least two hours. During this time, the temperature and pressure of the water should not change in any case.

Only after checking the efficiency of the heating system can the screed be carried out. To carry out this type of work, it is better to buy a ready-made building mixture. On how to lay it, as a rule, there is an instruction on the packaging of the material itself.

It should be noted that the screed should only be carried out when the heating system is operating. The pressure in the pipes must be mandatory, because if the pipes are filled without the required pressure, cracks will appear on the screed when the heating system is started.

This will happen because the pipes will expand and require more space.

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