Homemade engraver. DIY laser engraver - an affordable solution for the home workshop

Engraving on metal is always eye-catching. This craft has fed artisans since ancient times. And today it has not lost its relevance. Craftsmen can turn household items into real works of high art by decorating them with whimsical miniatures. Sometimes you can see whole paintings of considerable size, made by engravers. And few people know that absolutely everyone can do this business.

Photo 1. Souvenir engraved hunting knife, ideally a good gift that can be given to hunters.

Do-it-yourself engraving can be a profitable and interesting business if you really want it.

You can decorate small metal objects by do-it-yourself engraving at home. This occupation will cause respect and envy of friends and acquaintances. In Zlatoust, thousands of craftsmen do this craft at home. Engraved things are expensive. Saber - about 300 thousand rubles, a hunting knife - up to 100 thousand (photo No. 1). Agree, this is good money. How to engrave on metal at home with your own hands? For this lesson, you need to prepare the simplest equipment that can be found in any house, in any apartment.

We start experiments

Decorative patterns are applied by engraving to plates, knives, pistols, sabers, medals, cups, apartment numbers. All patterns and inscriptions are preserved almost forever and do not require expensive and rare consumables and special equipment for execution. The pattern can be applied to steel, aluminum, brass, copper, metal alloys. The method does not pollute the environment. It is impossible to wash off or erase the drawing by the usual methods and means.

Photo 2. Engraved wedding rings, they usually write the date of the wedding and the initials of the bride and groom.

1. Nail polish, which the wife does not really need.
2. Toothpick with sharp tips.
3. You may need an ordinary match.
4. Salt.
5. Charger for car battery. It can be successfully replaced with a mobile phone charger.
6. Glass or porcelain dishes in the form of a glass, mug or jar.
7. Nail polish remover.

The work is done in the following order:

1. A spoon is taken and covered with nail polish. The entire surface must be varnished very carefully, otherwise there will be a marriage in the work.
2. With a match or a toothpick, a pattern, a name, another image is scratched through a layer of varnish.
3. Pour 2 tablespoons of salt into a glass glass or jar. Some pour a spoonful of salt and a spoonful of soda.
4. Water is poured into the vessel, the salt is thoroughly stirred until completely dissolved.
5. We connect a car or other charger with a positive terminal to the product being processed, with a minus terminal to any metal object that will be placed in a vessel with water. This object can be another spoon, a piece of thick wire, a metal plate.
6. The rectifier is connected to the network. Almost immediately, an etching reaction will begin in the glass with a darkening of the liquid. It lasts 1-5 minutes. It depends on the amount of current. The product is checked periodically. After reaching the desired depth of etching, it is removed from the container.
7. The varnish is washed off with nail polish remover. The result should look something like this (photo #3).

Photo 3. Named engraved spoons and what is interesting, engraving can be done on various metal objects in a simple home environment.

In this way, you can process any metal objects at home. If you make an inscription with varnish, then it will be convex on the etched background. For better work, it is recommended to purchase a special tool - an engraver. It can work from the mains and from built-in batteries. The kit usually comes with drills of various shapes. They can work on glass, plastics and other materials. Engraved wedding rings are a great gift for newlyweds (photo #2). But you can do it yourself only when you are completely sure of the result of the work.

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Engraving on glass

Photo 4. For home engraving, you will need regular salt, nail polish, nail polish cleaner and a glass of water.

Do-it-yourself engraving on the glass surface is carried out by chemical and mechanical means. The mechanical method involves the use of a nozzle, which is driven by an electric motor. Procedure:

1. With a dark marker, the drawing is transferred to the glass.
2. A damp sponge is applied to the image on the glass. This must be done carefully so as not to smear the drawing.
3. Protective goggles must be worn when working.
4. After completing the drawing, it is washed and viewed for gaps. If necessary, missed places are processed again.

Lasers have long been part of our everyday life. Guides use light pointers, builders with beam support set levels. The calling of the laser - to heat up substances (up to thermal destruction) - is used for cutting and decorating. One of the applications- laser engraving. On different materials, you can get subtle patterns with virtually no restrictions on complexity.

The implementation presents a rich selection of engraving machines, mainly made in China. The equipment is not very expensive, however, the purchase just for the purpose of entertainment is impractical. Much more fun to do DIY laser engraver.

How to make an engraver from a printer?

How to make an engraver with your own hands? It is not difficult to make a CNC engraver from an old printer. It's like an Arduino kit. Detailed instructions, of course, will help you navigate everything.

However, first it is necessary prepare all the required components for the CNC:

• 3 studs from hardware mall;
• duralumin P-profile;
• 2 metal bearings;
• a piece of plexiglass;
• metal nuts of ordinary size and large;
• 3 stepper motors, they can be taken from an old printer.

It is also necessary that the following devices are at hand:

• saw;
• screws;
• screwdrivers and other tools.

The only thing that will need to be done outside the home is to weld the base for the CNC machine, although it is also possible to do it in bolting.

Stages of machine production

The manufacture of the engraver begins with the fastening of the lead screw and profile. The final stage - use a sled.

Working process:

The engraving machine in this modification, developed by oneself, can be an ordinary home dremel. Attach your engraver allowed with plexiglass.

So the do-it-yourself laser desktop engraver is ready. Now it remains only to connect it with the help of limit switches. This home-made device makes it possible to carry out stone carving at home, but does not make it possible to separate it.

How to assemble a laser engraver using a diode from an old DVD drive?

You can make your own laser from a DVD drive. The optical beam, which is made by one's own hands, is unlikely to manage with iron or wood.

However, it will be entirely possible for them to share:

1. paper;
2. a small sheet of plastic;
3. polyethylene film;
4. other simple and delicate items.

In addition to the above alternatives, a laser made with your own hands from a DVD drive is allowed to come up with many different tasks. In particular, his potential is excellently revealed in the creative field.

If thread is not needed, with a laser from a DVD drive, you can:

1. burn patterns or pictures on wood surfaces;
2. illuminate various objects at a great distance;
3. use as a decoration at home;
4. make direct lines (because the beam is perfectly visible), which will be especially useful when building and repairing.

What will be needed to complete the job?

To make a beam, you need certain elements. They are always sold in ordinary electronics shopping centers, therefore, you will not have to make any extra efforts.

Thus, for the purpose of production, you will need:

The disassembly of the drive must be carried out with special care. If handled carelessly, you can not only ruin the mechanism, but also cause damage to your own eyes. The problem is that the beam has the ability to blind at some time and negatively affect visual acuity.

Now homemade fixture should be provided with electricity. The power supply of a conventional diode must be 3V, and the consumption must be up to 400 mA. These values ​​may vary depending on the write speed of the drive. The laser does not require huge performance. So, for a drive whose write speed is 16X, 200 mA is enough. It is allowed to increase this value as much as possible up to 300 milliamps, otherwise it is possible to spoil the crystal and forget about a home-made laser.

A homemade collimator is easiest to make with an ordinary laser pointer. The cheapest Chinese version will do. All that is needed is to remove the optical lens from the "laser" (it is visible). The width of the half-line will be more than 5 millimeters. Of course, this kind of coefficient is huge and cannot claim the title of a laser in any way. The stock lens of the collimator will help to reduce the diameter down to 1 mm. Although in order to achieve such an effect, it will be necessary to work thoroughly.

Creating a laser with your own hands is a very interesting process. It does not require any specialized parts or large economic costs. Completely quite accurate and shallow knowledge of the electrician. With successful production, you can start using the device. Cutting beam without difficulty bursts balloons, burns through paper and leaves prints on wood. However, when using, one should not forget about technical safety.

Lasers have long been part of our everyday life. Tour guides use light pointers, builders set levels with the help of a beam. The ability of a laser to heat materials (up to thermal destruction) is used in cutting and decorative design.

One of the applications is laser engraving. On various materials, you can get subtle patterns with almost no restrictions on complexity.

Wooden surfaces are great for burning out. Engravings on plexiglass with illumination are especially appreciated.

A wide selection of engraving machines, mainly made in China, is on sale. The equipment is not too expensive, however, buying just for fun is impractical. It is much more interesting to make a laser engraver with your own hands.

It is only necessary to get a laser with a power of several W, and create a frame system of movement in two coordinate axes.

DIY laser engraving machine

The laser gun is not the most complex design element, and there are options. Depending on the tasks, you can choose a different power (respectively, the cost, up to a free purchase). Craftsmen from the Middle Kingdom offer various ready-made designs, sometimes made with high quality.


Such a 2W cannon can even cut plywood. The ability to focus at the required distance allows you to control both the width of the engraving and the depth of penetration (for 3D drawings).

The cost of such a device is about 5-6 thousand rubles. If high power is not needed, use a low-power laser from a DVD burner, which can be purchased for a penny on the radio market.

There are quite workable solutions, production will take one day off

How to remove the laser semiconductor from the drive does not need to be explained, if you know how to "do things" with your hands - this is not difficult. The main thing is to choose a durable and comfortable case. In addition, the "combat" laser, albeit low-power, requires cooling. In the case of a DVD drive, a passive heatsink is sufficient.

The body-handle can be made from two brass sleeves from a pistol. Spent cartridges from "TT" and "PM" will do. They have a slight difference in caliber, and fit perfectly with each other.

We drill out the capsules, and in place of one of them we install a laser diode. The brass sleeve will serve as an excellent radiator.


It remains to connect the 12 volt power, for example, from the USB port of your computer. There is enough power, in the computer the drive is powered by the same power supply. That's all, do-it-yourself laser engraving at home is practically from garbage.


If you need a coordinate machine, you can fix the burning element on the finished positioning device.

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A laser engraver from a printer with a dried ink head is a great way to bring a broken unit back to life.

A little bit of work with paper feed instead of paper (for flat plywood or metal plate, this is not a problem), and you have almost a factory engraver. The software may not be needed - the driver from the printer is used.

With the circuitry, you simply connect the ink supply signal to the input of the laser, and "print" on solid materials.

Homemade laser engraver for working with large areas

Any drawing for assembling the so-called KIT kits from the same Chinese friends is taken as a basis.


Finding an aluminum profile is not a problem, making carriages with wheels is also. A ready-made laser module is installed on one of them, the other pair of carriages will move the guide truss. The movement is set by stepper motors, the torque is transmitted using toothed belts.


It is better to assemble the structure inside some box, with active ventilation. The acrid smoke emitted during engraving is harmful to health. When used indoors, an outdoor hood is required.

Important! When operating a laser of this power, safety precautions must be observed.

Short-term exposure to human skin causes severe burns.

If you work with metal plates, the reflected glare of the beam can damage the retina of the eye. The best protection is red plexiglass. This will neutralize the blue laser beam and allow you to control the process in real time.


The control circuit is assembled on any programmable controller. The most popular are the Arduino UNO systems, which are sold on the same Chinese electronics sites. The solution is inexpensive, but effective and almost universal.


The most common option is to connect to a personal computer. Drawing and engraving parameters are created using any standard graphic editor.

If you need to make fine processing of metal or wood, draw a pattern on stone or glass, then use an engraver. It performs the functions of a drill, grinder, milling machine, but on a very small scale. Therefore, it is also called a mini-drill and drill. Which device to choose for work, how to maintain electrical equipment and repair it if necessary?

Purpose and types of engravers

An engraver is a compact electric tool that processes various materials: wood, stone, glass, metal. The device performs not only drawings and inscriptions on the surface. This versatile tool can grind, mill, engrave, cut and drill. Such a run-up in the number of operations performed is possible due to interchangeable nozzles. The engraver is used where accurate accurate work is required. This is jewelry and watchmaking, polishing in narrow openings, design, decor, modeling.

In appearance, the engraver resembles a straight grinder. Main elements: motor, reducer, spindle, housing. Nozzles are inserted into the spindle. Pressing the button starts the engine. Its rotational movement is transmitted to the gearbox, and then to the spindle, which turns the nozzle.

The following types of engravers are distinguished:

• accumulator. Do not connect directly to the network. Used away from outlets;
• electrical. Work only from the network;
• with flexible shaft. This is a hose of various lengths with a cable inside. The shaft is installed between the spindle and the nozzle. It plays the role of an extension. It is convenient to work with such a shaft, since it is lighter than an engraver, which weighs about a kilogram. It can be held in the hand like a pencil. It is very convenient when performing drawings, inscriptions, decorative processing;
• laser. These devices are machines. They are desktop and floor. The latter have large dimensions and are used in production. According to the type of laser, engraving machines are divided into the following types:
  • gas. All materials are processed: from leather to metal;
  • solid state. Used to work with metal and plastic. Products are marked with such a device, symbols are applied to a computer keyboard, and inscriptions are made.

Photo gallery: what types of devices exist

The cordless engraver has a built-in battery and is used away from power outlets
Electric engraver without battery, but with mains cable. It works only from the mains. The engraver with a flexible shaft has a flexible shaft between the spindle and the collet, which acts as an extension. The gas engraver is large and is used in production
A solid state engraver is much smaller than a gas engraver. It is installed on the table, used in everyday life and small business

Classification of engravers according to the material being processed:

• for metal. Used for work with solid materials: metal, stone, glass;
• on wood. For processing wood and thin plywood.

How to choose an electrical appliance

In order not to make a mistake with the purchase, determine two points: for what work you need a tool and the type of workpiece material. Then consider the following selection criteria:

• electric engraver or cordless. Consider if you need an outlet nearby;
• the main parameter of the tool is power. The greater the value of this characteristic, the better the tool will perform the task and better process hard materials;
• The second parameter is important for the selection of accessories. This is the collet size. It is designed to clamp and hold the engraver nozzles. The most common collet diameter is 3.2 mm. The minimum is 0.8 mm. If you find collets of several sizes in the kit, then this is a big plus. Since you will have the opportunity to use a wide variety of nozzles;
• number of revolutions and the possibility of their adjustment. This is a very important parameter because there are attachments that cannot be used at low or high speeds. Therefore, engravers with a large maximum number of revolutions and the ability to adjust them are preferable. Since they can use various nozzles, which means they can perform a wide range of work;
• tool weight. It is advisable to choose a light engraver, because the work of making patterns and polishing takes a lot of time. Holding a heavy tool in your hands for a long time is quite uncomfortable.
• When choosing a tool, considerable attention should be paid to the configuration:
  • the presence of a flexible shaft in the kit will relieve you of the need to purchase it separately. The flexible shaft itself is very useful and enhances the user-friendliness. You can hang the tool on a hook, and take the flexible shaft by hand and work;
  • the presence of a variety of nozzles will also be a plus. There is a complete set with a whole suitcase of accessories. You may not need some at first, but later on you will already know what you need. And do not spend money on the right nozzle;
  • packaging matters. It is good if it is a high-quality case in which the engraver with all accessories is placed.

Rating of the best with photos

The Dremel 8200-1/35 cordless engraver is in the lead. This tool weighs only 600 g, high rotation speed with speed control. The battery at maximum load is enough for 15 minutes of work. Not so much, but the user rarely uses the highest speed. And the device charges in one hour. After turning off, the automatic brake is activated.

In second place is the Dremel 200-5 network engraver. It is a powerful and lightweight tool. Works quietly without overheating and vibrations. It is suitable for artists and home craftsmen.

The third position is occupied by the network engraver Hammer MD 135 A. Lightweight, convenient, inexpensive tool. The set includes 40 different nozzles and three collets. This engraver loses second place because of the rapid heating and unstable operation at the lowest speeds.

Engraver Hammer MD 135 comes with 40 nozzles and three collets. Due to rapid heating, unstable operation at the lowest speeds, it ranks third

The fourth was the Hitachi GP10DL cordless engraver. Accelerates up to 35 thousand revolutions. Weighs less than 500 g. Works for a long time on a single battery charge.

In fifth place is the network engraver Caliber 160. A powerful and resourceful tool. Has 100 nozzles. It is completed with a case and a flexible shaft. Fits with Dremel accessories. Disadvantages: vibrates at high speeds, and standard nozzles are not of the best quality.

Reviews about engravers

Advantages of the ZUBR ZG-130EK H219 engraver: 1. Cheap, not very noisy. 2. Large initial set of attachments - you can understand what is convenient and what is not, and what should be immediately bought for a normal dremel the next time the bison dies. 😉 3. Smooth speed control. 4. Dofiga glass-stone-cutting (50 or so) and polishing (30-40pcs) discs in the kit. But there are only 5 metal-cutting pcs. In general, the device is worthy, especially considering its price (three times cheaper than a similar dremel).

The ZUBR ZG-130EK H219 engraver is cheap, a large set of nozzles, has a smooth speed control

https://market.yandex.ru/product/10556245/reviews?hid=91662&track=tabs

Features of the Vega Professional VGM-200 engraver: build quality, equipment (case, stand, flexible shaft, additional collet, nozzles) price. A good device for those who are looking for something for the soul. It is great to work on glass at high speeds with a diamond-coated nozzle, the main thing is not to forget to draw a drawing (pattern) with a permanent marker.

Engraver Vega Professional VGM-200″ width=”638″ height=”209″ /> Engraver Vega Professional VGM-200 is of high quality, rich equipment. This tool works well on glass

prootziw

http://otzovik.com/review_4912645.html

I bought a Leroy Merlin DM-130 engraver for small jobs where great efforts and high speeds are not needed. Grinding wheels end and front, circular sanding sheets of different numbers, drills, engraving nozzles, GOI paste, cutting wheels (thing!!!) of different thicknesses, metal brushes! ... And everything seems to cling well, inserted, mounted and fastened! It works loudly, but does not vibrate, and this is valuable for those who plan to make inscriptions on metal. Turnovers are regulated by a “wheel” - a regulator in the “plus or minus” directions. The device was liked by its "patency" and unpretentiousness.

Engraver Leroy Merlin DM-130″ width=”660″ height=”371″ /> Engraver Leroy Merlin DM-130 has a lot of attachments, speed is adjustable, does not vibrate. Convenient for patterns and inscriptions on metal

Nicholas762009

http://otzovik.com/review_3588977.html

I bought the engraver Diold MED-2 MF not for professional work, but, let's say, for home. I was very pleased with the price for the set - 2700 rubles, as well as a rich set (indeed, a lot of things come in the kit). If you use it often, it will not be very convenient to pack everything back into the case. Of the shortcomings, I can note the lack of a tripod-stand. Not a particularly informative instruction (you can figure it out without it, but still an unprepared person may have problems). The kit comes with a polishing paste in a tube, but how to extract it from there is still a mystery)) The regular polishing disc (something like felt) turned after about 2-3 minutes of work (I don’t know how long they live on other engravers, Well, maybe he's to blame - he pressed hard ...). In terms of the rest of the complaints, perhaps no. Although among the interchangeable cutting wheels I got one cracked. It was not immediately possible to figure out how to fasten the flexible shaft. and so far only positive impressions. I definitely recommend for my money! obviously better than the Chinese will be.

Engraver Diold MED-2 MF» width=»649″ height=»701″ /> Engraver Diold MED-2 MF inexpensive, good quality and equipment. Works well with flexible shaft

Dimarik53rus

http://otzovik.com/review_3247242.html

How to work with it: proper operation

In order not to spoil the product when working with the device, you need to know the rules of use and safety precautions.

Preparation of the workplace and tools

1. Select a table with free space.
2. Install a powerful lamp so that all the small details can be seen.
3. Cover your worktop with paper or cloth. During cutting and grinding, dust and chips are generated.
4. Stock up on carpentry tape, pencil or felt-tip pen for drawing. Scotch tape is needed to fix the draft on the surface. The paper tape is easy to peel off and leaves no residue. To apply patterns on a metal, plastic or glass blank, degrease the surface with alcohol so that the felt-tip pen does not wash off. On the tree, apply the initial drawing with a pencil.
5. Prepare all necessary nozzles. To do this, read the instructions for the device. There is a description of the purpose of all consumables.
6. If you bought an engraver complete with a suspension, then install it in a convenient place. It helps to get rid of vibrations during operation and reduce the error. When installing the suspension, be guided by the placement of the flexible shaft. He must not interfere.

How to use

1. Put on cloth gloves so that the hand with the tool slides easily over the surface of the workpiece, and the product does not appear stained.
2. If you are a beginner, choose the minimum number of revolutions. Then the pattern will turn out even, the strokes will be of the same depth, and the material will not be damaged. Turn on the engraver.
3. Outline the drawing. When finished, move on to drawing small details.
4. When the pattern is finished, use the nozzle with soft felt. It usually comes with an engraver. This equipment removes roughness.

Safety

• before work, check the integrity of the network cable and work items;
• use protective goggles so that sparks and dust do not get into your eyes;
• for drilling and cutting materials, hold the device firmly with your whole hand. So you will avoid arbitrary movements, damage to hands and work material;
• if the tooling is jammed, do not pull it out of the workpiece. First unplug the engraver or remove the battery. Then take out the nozzle;
• When the body of the engraver becomes hot, unplug it and wait for it to cool down. If the device does not have a cooling system, then it will have to be interrupted often. So, you will avoid engine overheating. The instructions describe the operating time;
• When buying consumables separately, make sure they match your tool. They must have the correct shank size and be suitable for the number of revolutions of the engraver.

Care

In order for the tool to fully work for many years, it is necessary to control the condition of the working equipment. If a visual inspection of the nozzles reveals various damages, replace them with others of the same brand as the engraver itself. This is the only way the tool manufacturer guarantees the efficiency of the device and a long service life.

After each cycle, clean the ventilation holes in the case. With their help, the engine is additionally cooled. But when processing wooden, plastic or glass blanks, the holes become clogged with dust. The resulting contamination affects the performance of the tool and causes it to break. To avoid this trouble, you need to remove the debris carefully with a damp, clean rag. It can be soaked in soapy water. Do not use alcohol, thinner, or benzine-based cleaners to avoid damage to the case. The equipment that was used in the process also needs to be cleaned.

By following these simple tips, you will use the engraver for a long time and get a quality result.

Do-it-yourself engraver

The device can be made from the simplest improvised means.

electric pencil

This method is only suitable for engraving on conductive surfaces. The core of a simple clerical pencil consists of graphite, which transmits electric current well. With a pencil under current, you can engrave on a metal surface. Such a pattern will only be erased by a grinder. You will need: a pencil with an eraser on the end, a plug for an outlet with a two-wire cable, a 100-watt light bulb, rubber gloves, two pieces of wire, an alligator clip, a piece of metal, such as a knife.

1. Remove the eraser from the pencil and drill through the middle.
2. Pass the wire through the hole. Remove the insulation from a few centimeters and twist the exposed area. Sharpen the pencil slightly where the eraser was to improve contact.
3. Install the wired eraser on the pencil.
4. Take the lamp. Connect a pencil to one terminal, and a plug cable to the other. Connect the unused wire to the "crocodile" and to the free core of the plug. Connect the metal clip to the knife. The structure is ready.
5. In order not to spoil the workpiece with an accidental blot, first apply a draft inscription. Wear rubber gloves for safety. Plug in your device and start working. During engraving, a spark forms between the pencil and the knife, which causes the drawing.

Video: how to make an electric pencil for engraving on metal

Universal engraver

Using this option, you will be able to perform various operations. You will need: a two-wire power supply connector, a button, a plastic bottle with a cap, a 12V power supply, a 12V motor, a piece of plastic pipe 10 cm long with an inner diameter slightly larger than the motor.

1. Drill a hole in the pipe for the switch. Lubricate the motor housing with hot melt adhesive to secure it to the pipe.
2. Insert the engine into the pipe. Pass one of the wires through the hole.
3. Insert one wire of the power supply connector into the pipe and pass through the hole. Take the button. Solder two wires sticking out of the hole to it. Isolate the contacts.
4. You should have two free wires left: from the engine and from the connector for the power supply. Connect them.
5. Cut off a part of the neck with a cap from a plastic bottle. Drill a hole in the center of the cover for the connector. Glue the connector to the cap and the cap to the pipe.
6. Take a 12V power supply and connect to the connector. Press the button to check engine performance.

Instead of a connector for the power supply, you can install a pair of batteries.

Video: do-it-yourself electric engraver

Repair of the engraver and consumables

The main engraver malfunctions and their causes:

• engraver does not turn on. You need to charge the battery if you have one. And turn it on again. If the problem persists, check all the wires and the motor with a multimeter;
• doesn't spin. The reason is the power button or the engine;
• turns weakly. Not enough power. Check brushes;
• rustling or crackling. The reason is in the gearbox or bearings;
• sparks or heats up. Engine defective.

Parsing and Troubleshooting

To identify and fix problems, the tool must be disassembled.

Video: how to disassemble and check the device for damage

Collet and flexible shaft repair

If the collet has stopped clamping the nozzles, you need to unscrew the clamping tip and remove the collet. A broken part can no longer be repaired, and blockages between the petals must be cleaned regularly with a thin, sharp object. They interfere with the full clamping of the nozzles.

The flexible shaft is a hose with a cable inside. The cable must be lubricated with graphite grease. To do this, bend the shaft and the cable will come out through the sleeve. Take it out and grease it.

If the cable is broken, then it must be replaced.

Selection and replacement of nozzles

When choosing a tooling, consider the diameter of the collet of your tool. If necessary, buy a set of collets of different sizes.

Nozzle types:

• carbide. With different type of notch. They have large and small heads. Designed for pre-treatment or intermediate operations;
• diamond. Made from steel with diamond coating. Very productive. This is the main working tool;
• disk holders. Cutting, rubber, felt circles are installed on them;
• rubber with corundum. For metal processing;
• abrasive. For processing ceramics, stone, glass, metal;
• felt. For polishing wood.

How to change nozzle

It is necessary to loosen the collet, remove the nozzle, insert another one and tighten the collet. To install the flexible shaft, the collet must be removed. Install the rectangular adapter and put the flexible shaft sleeve on it. Screw a collet onto the working end of the shaft.

How to make nozzles with your own hands

The presence of an engraver on the farm allows you to perform a wide variety of operations. And it is not at all necessary to draw patterns or drill holes in printed circuit boards. An engraver will help you simply remove rust from a bolt or coupling. Sandpaper or a grinder is much more difficult to do. And if you do not want to spend money on the device, then you can assemble it yourself. Such a tool will be easier to repair. I replaced the engine or a worn homemade nozzle and the problem was solved.

The drawing on various objects of a pattern by removing a substance from its surface has been known to mankind for many millennia.

With the advent of new materials, it became necessary to master the methods of work that allow engraving on objects that are much harder than wood and stone. New technologies make it possible to fully automate the engraving process when drawing a pattern on a metal surface, but for a home craftsman, mastering the manual method of drawing a pattern is the most suitable option.

Do-it-yourself metal engraving is possible at home, with tools and a suitable room to perform this type of work.

For manual engraving at home, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Stichel.
• Metal blank.
• A vise or similar device for holding the workpiece stationary.

The blank for drawing a picture can be used from any metal, but for beginners it is better to use aluminum or copper.

The shtichel is a rod up to 120 mm long. One end of this tool is cut at an angle and sharpened, the other is set in a handle made of wood or plastic.

The shtikhel can be of different shapes, as well as differ in the width of the working surface. In the absence of this tool, you can make it yourself if you have materials suitable for this purpose.

Self-made chisel

For the manufacture of the engraver, it is necessary to use tool steel. The metal used in springs and ball bearings is excellent for this purpose. You can use old files and needle files to make a cutting surface, as well as various cutters that need to be cut into thin strips.

The ideal material for the manufacture of engraving engraver is P18 steel. From old circles for circular saws, you can make a large number of blanks for the production of engravers at home. Next, the working part of the workpiece is sharpened at an angle, which will make it possible to make a notch of a certain width on the metal surface.

The handle of the engraver is made of hardwood, and should be of such a width that it is convenient for the master to hold the tool in his hand. The recommended length for this part of the chisel is usually 50 mm.

A mushroom-shaped handle is the most suitable for making this tool, but you can experiment and make several different options, and already in the process choose the most suitable option.

Workpiece preparation

First of all, you should select the blank on which the drawing will be displayed. The selected product must be free of rust and chips. To prepare the surface you will need:

• Sandpaper P400.
• Paste GOI No. 1 or No. 2

First, the workpiece is polished with sandpaper. Then the final polishing is performed using GOI paste.

To avoid damage to the surface, when polishing with GOI paste, it is recommended to use this tool only No. 1 or No. 2.

You should also perform, before finishing polishing with this tool, the following steps:

1. Prepare flannel fabric and dampen it with white spirit
2. Pour GOI paste onto a dampened cloth.
3. Wipe the unwanted area of ​​metal with a cloth to remove large pieces that can scratch the surface.

After such preparation, the workpiece is polished with uniform circular movements. After finishing the polishing measures, the metal object must be rinsed in kerosene and dried at room temperature.

metal engraving process

If the engraving of a metal surface is carried out for the first time, then before proceeding with the application of the main pattern, it is recommended to practice on an unnecessary piece of metal.

The ideal option for such workouts is to use a copper plate. A piece of copper should be securely fastened to a wooden board using wide-head self-tapping screws. When the workpiece is fixed, the board is laid on the table, additional lighting is turned on, if necessary, the cutting tool is clamped in the right hand, and an even notch is made on the metal surface.

So that when making a straight line, the hand does not slip, on the surface of the metal plate, the thumbs of the left and right hands should be connected and touch the plate at the place where the drawing is made. The index finger of the right hand, at this time, lies on the cutter of the tool, and completely controls the process of drawing lines. It is recommended at the beginning of training to make several straight parallel strips on the workpiece. When even sections turn out well, you can move on to making semicircular lines.

When the hand is already a little stuffed, you can start engraving the pattern on the workpiece. To carry out this work, a metal object must also be securely fixed. For this purpose, a device should be made similar to the mechanism of the lock on self-tapping screws described above.

For engraving simple figures, initials and other simple images, you can start immediately after fixing the metal object. If you need to perform a complex drawing, it is recommended that you first transfer the image to the workpiece.

Transferring a complex image to metal

The original method of transferring an image to a metal base is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Lacquer is applied to the surface of the treated metal.
2. With a soft graphite pencil, an image is drawn on a polyester film, which will be engraved on the workpiece.
3. The drawing is covered with adhesive tape, pressed over the entire area to the film and carefully removed from it. At the same time, the image drawn earlier will remain on the sticky surface of the adhesive tape.
4. When the varnish dries, the adhesive tape is attached to the surface of the metal, ironed with a roller or other soft object, and then removed.

After the correct execution of the described actions, a pattern will remain on the product, according to which it will be possible to engrave.

Other engraving methods

In addition to the manual engraving method at home, the following methods of embossing a metal surface can be carried out:

1. Chemical engraving is an easy method to do at home, even with ordinary table salt and a phone charger.
2. Using a drill is a great way for home use. The principle of metal removal by this method is similar to manual engraving, but instead of a chisel, a drill or similar device with a rotating thin one is used.
3. - is the most advanced way of drawing a pattern on a metal surface, but equipment for this type of work will be too expensive. The use of this engraving method is justified only if the passion for drawing patterns on metal becomes a profession and brings a steady income.

Conclusion

How to engrave on metal and what method to master to perform this type of work, everyone must decide for himself. To get started, it is recommended to purchase a professional handmade tool. After working with a hand tool for some time, you can move on to mastering the equipment, which will significantly speed up the engraving process.