Cabbage - planting, growing and care. Cabbage from the bush is thick, but not tasty - how to care for cabbage in open ground so that there is a good harvest

Growing cabbage begins by soaking the seeds in mid to late March. Place them in a glass, put gauze on it, and secure it with an elastic band or thread. Pour water into the container, the temperature of which is +50°C. After 5 minutes, drain it and fill the glass halfway with cool water. This technique will help remove spores of dangerous microorganisms from the surface of the seeds.

Prepare a solution of a growth stimulator - 2 drops per 200 grams of water is enough. Pour it into the container with the seeds. Let them absorb beneficial microelements. After 10 hours, plant the seeds in seedling boxes filled with fertile soil.

Place them on the windowsill. When the shoots appear, maintain the temperature at +15+20°C so that they do not stretch out. After 20 days, plant the seedlings into peat cups.

At the beginning of May, plant the seedlings in the garden. Cabbage does not like acidic soil. Deposit at 1 square meter 200 grams of ash. It will reduce acidity.

Make holes, water them generously warm water, plant the seedlings and shade them. Water every evening warm water from a watering can. In a week the seedlings will take root.

Hill it up, covering it with soil up to the first true leaves. Remember to water thoroughly in dry weather. To do this, use only warm water. Cold weather can lead to the development of blackleg disease. Each mature plant“drinks” a bucket of water per day, so water it generously. The next morning, loosen the soil around the plants to provide oxygen access.

No to pests and diseases

Young plants are harmed by cruciferous flea beetles. Periodically sprinkle each with ash, which prevents their spread.

If the soil is rich in organic matter, and you notice fresh holes 1-2 cm in size in it, then these are mole cricket passages - a dangerous pest. Place 2-3 Medvetox granules into each hole to a depth of 2-3 cm, spill with water and sprinkle with soil.

Halves of egg shells will help against whiteflies. Place sticks next to the cabbage and put on the shells. Inspect periodically reverse side leaves. If you notice yellow dots on them, these are whitefly eggs. Collect them, destroy them. Otherwise, they will soon form voracious green caterpillars. If they appear, then collect them and destroy them too.

Feeding

Caring for cabbage means not only abundant watering, pest control, but also fertilizing. At the beginning of growth, feed the cabbage with nitrogen fertilizers every 2 weeks. To do this, put 600 grams of manure in a bucket and fill it with 6 liters of water. Place the fertilizer in the sun for 2 days, then feed it.

Start feeding early varieties from the end of June, and late varieties from mid-July with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Pour a glass of ash and a tablespoon of superphosphate into a bucket, pour hot water. After 3 days, give the plant liquid nutrition. Remove the heads of cabbage as they ripen, avoiding them cracking.

Early cabbage is gradually leaving the garden. And mid-season and late varieties will still have to stay in the beds until late autumn. August is the time to help cabbage gain weight, nutrients and vitamins in which it is so rich.

In August, mid-season (pickling) varieties are already growing their heads of cabbage well. Late (long-term) varieties have formed the desired leaf rosette, and only now they have to switch to the formation of heads of cabbage. During this period, cabbage does not need large doses of nitrogen fertilizers. But phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, calcium are exactly the substances that will help spin a strong, juicy head of cabbage. What help does cabbage need in August?

Watering

Cabbage is a water drinker. It is always demanding of soil moisture. Because of large leaves The soil under the plants is always dry. And even rains sometimes cannot get to the roots and wet the soil. Therefore, it is necessary to water the cabbage so that the growth of the heads of cabbage does not stop. For watering it is better not to use very cold water. Cabbage doesn't like this.

Feeding

If, when planting seedlings, the soil was not well fed with nutrition or the cabbage lags behind in development, then it needs to be fed. Dry fertilizer(1 tbsp nitrophoska, 1 tbsp superphosphate, 1 tbsp potassium sulfate) are mixed and scattered between rows per 1 sq.m. It is preferable to apply fertilizers to moist soil. Then you need to loosen it so that the fertilizers are underground and do not lie on the surface.

Late varieties can also be fed by leaves with magnesium sulfate (15 g per 10 liters, per 10 sq.m.), which is necessary to feed varieties intended for long-term storage.

Hilling

Raking the soil to the base of the plants up to the lower leaves encourages the growth of additional new roots. Young roots provide additional nutrition and better standing stability for heavy heads of cabbage.

Pests

The main enemies of cabbage are: aphids, caterpillars and slugs. If at the end of summer aphids are not very annoying, then caterpillars and slugs can instantly destroy and ruin the entire crop. Inspection cabbage plants will help prevent severe damage from them. So, the first 5...6 days with young caterpillars eating upper leaves, can be easily combated (hand picking, tobacco dust, herbal infusions).
Extreme measures - the use of "chemistry". But then they will be out of reach; the caterpillars will crawl deep into the heads of cabbage. You can destroy the voracious “youth” by treating cabbage with a 0.3% solution of superphosphate and potassium chloride extract. This will help get rid of pests and at the same time feed the cabbage.

From caring for cabbage to initial period growth, and this occurs in the first half of summer, directly depends on the further development of the entire plant, and which head of cabbage will grow by autumn.

After the cabbage seedlings have taken root and started to grow, they need regular feeding. During the initial period of growth, cabbage increases its leaf mass. This means that, first of all, it needs a lot of nitrogen. Nitrogen is found in an accessible form in any organic matter or herbal infusions. It is important not to use strong concentrates of such fertilizer mixtures when fertilizing. Let feeding be frequent, once every 7-10 days, but weak.

Feeding cabbage is combined with watering. If the soil in the beds is dry, first water the root zone of the cabbage plants, and then apply liquid fertilizer mixtures.

What fertilizers should I use for leaf growth?

Extracts from bird droppings, mullein, herbal infusions with the addition of yeast, and ash are the most beneficial for cabbage during the growth period. But specialized fertilizers with mineral fertilizers for cabbage should also be used. There are various organo-mineral fertilizer mixtures for cabbage crops, which contain both.

How to feed cabbage in rainy weather?

With the onset of prolonged cold weather with frequent rains, you should not feed cabbage with liquid mixtures. Cabbage loves moisture, but overwatering it can lead to disease. In addition, in waterlogged soil the roots experience oxygen starvation and cannot digest the food offered.

The solution at such times is to use granular fertilizers, alternating them with adding humus and vermicompost to the root zone.

If growth is weak, you can use fast-acting urea (carbamide), which contains a lot of nitrogen.

Do not forget that in damp weather slugs actively “work” with young leaves. At such times, mulch should not be used.

How often should cabbage be watered at the beginning of growth?

Cabbage is a moisture-loving crop. But during the period of initial growth, water it moderately, allowing the surface layer of soil to dry out.

For better watering Make a ring-shaped groove around the plants and water along it. This increases the area for further root growth.

After watering the next day, the soil is loosened and hilled around the stem, again making a groove for the next watering, until the leaves of neighboring plants close together.

Why do you need to loosen cabbage often?

During the initial period of growth, cabbage has weak roots that grow simultaneously with the above-ground leaf mass. And loosening promotes better air exchange. In addition, with frequent loosening, pests (cabbage fly, slugs, armyworms, etc.) cannot “settle” in the root zone. At the same time as loosening, you need to hill up the stem of the cabbage.

Hilling promotes better root formation. Varieties with a long stem must be hilled up gradually. When hilling, you do not need to cover the lower leaves: in wet soil they will begin to rot, increasing the risk of the development of pathogens.

Cabbage, planting and care open ground which is no more difficult to follow than others garden crops, is a plant with a powerful leafy stem from the Cruciferous family. The high content of mineral salts, amino acids and vitamins makes the vegetable a very valuable food product, which began to be used in cooking 4000 years ago.

In the garden you can most often find such varieties of cabbage as white cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and Peking cabbage.

White cabbage

The most cultivated species in areas with temperate climate, distinguished by a low powerful stem covered with large sheet plates, with an apical bud in the form of a head of cabbage that has grown to large sizes.

Popular varieties:

• June- a common early variety, for which 2 months after planting the seedlings are enough to ripen. Its cold resistance allows it to withstand return spring frosts. The weight of the head of cabbage ranges from 2.5 kg.
• Glory– a widely known mid-season variety with good taste qualities which is suitable for winter preparations, transportation and storage. The average weight of a flattened head of cabbage is 5 kg.
• Amager- late high-yielding variety with dense foliage of bluish-green color. Excellent for transportation and long-term storage.

Cauliflower

The species is represented by a granular tuberculate head cream color, surrounded by green leaf plates, which consists of rudimentary inflorescences on branched shortened shoots.

Popular varieties:

• Guarantee– an early ripening variety with large inflorescences and a pronounced taste. It is resistant to vascular bacteriosis and has good shelf life.
• Snowball– an excellent early variety that produces a harvest of snow-white heads weighing over 1 kg. Resistant to many specialized diseases and easily adapts to adverse weather conditions. The compactness of the variety allows you to place a large number of seedlings in small areas.

Broccoli

Genetic predecessor of cauliflower with green or purple inflorescences.

The most common varieties include:

• Tone– an early variety with a dark green head weighing up to 0.5 kg, quickly forming side shoots after cutting the central fruit.
• Monterey– hybrid late dates maturation with high performance productivity, distinguished by the absence of side shoots.

Chinese cabbage

A variety with a loose, oblong head of cabbage.

Among the most popular varieties are:

• Champion– an early variety with fruits up to 2.5 kg, distinguished by its excellent taste, preserved during long-term storage.
• Grenade– mid-early cabbage with dense, juicy leaves gathered into a cylindrical fruit, weighing up to 3 kg.

Brussels sprouts

A species with a long stem covered with small heads, high in vitamin C.

Popular varieties:

• Dolmik– early high-yielding variety with big amount fruits weighing up to 17 g.
• Curl– a late frost-resistant variety valued for its excellent taste.

Cabbage - growing features

Growing a cruciferous vegetable rich in vitamins and minerals has its own characteristics that must be taken into account:

• choosing a variety depending on the purpose of the future fruit;
• preparation of the site taking into account the light-loving nature of the crop;
• competent and systematic care, including abundant watering and processing before the head of cabbage begins to form.

Planting in open ground

To grow healthy, strong fruits with excellent taste, cabbage should be planted using pre-planted seedlings.

Growing seedlings from seeds

When growing seedlings, the timing of sowing seeds for seedlings is taken into account, which depends on the growing season of the variety chosen by the gardener:

• the first half of March is suitable for early varieties;
• seeds of mid-season varieties are sown from the end of April;
• Late cabbage is sown in the first half of April.

The direct process of forcing seedlings is carried out as follows:

1. The container for seedlings is filled with a nutritious soil mixture with good air and water permeability, prepared from turf land, peat and sand in equal quantities.
2. The seed material is heated for 20 minutes in hot water, after which it is placed in a manganese solution for disinfection.
3. After half an hour, the treated seeds are embedded in moistened soil 1 cm deep and covered with film.
4. After 5 days, when the container is kept in a room with a temperature of 20°C, shoots appear.
5. The soil with crops is watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
6. The film is removed and the temperature drops to 6-10°C.
7. When the seedlings develop their first leaf, the temperature ranges between 14-18°C during the day and 6-10°C at night.

Important! Seeds of not all varieties can be wetted before sowing, as indicated on the manufacturer’s packaging.

Picking seedlings

After 15 days after the development of the first true leaf, the seedlings dive:

1. An hour and a half before the procedure, the seedlings are watered.
2. Seedlings with land lump transplanted into individual containers: the root of each seedling is shortened by ⅓, after which it is buried in the substrate up to the cotyledon leaves.

Advice! If the gardener wants to avoid picking, then the seeds should be sowed in separate pots.

Soil requirements, site selection

To successfully cultivate cabbage, select a well-lit area with slightly acidic fertile soil, in which cruciferous crops have not been grown for at least the last 3 years.

The area for cabbage is prepared in advance:

1. In autumn, in dry weather, the soil is dug up to a depth of 20 cm and not leveled.
2. With the arrival of spring, when the snow melts, the soil on the ground is raked - “moisture closure” is carried out.

How and when to plant?

When the seedlings have 3 pairs of true leaves and their height is 15-20 cm, you can begin planting the seedlings in open ground.

The procedure consists of the following steps:

1. In the prepared area, planting holes are dug a little bigger size than the rhizome of the seedling, according to the 50x60 cm pattern.
2. Sand, peat, humus, 50 g of ash, 5 g of azophosphate are placed in each hole and mixed thoroughly with the soil.
3. A seedling is lowered into the hole with earthen lump and sprinkled with soil.

Advice! If the seedling is too elongated, it should be placed in the hole so that the first leaf is flush with the ground.

Nuances of planting for the winter

Planting cabbage for the winter, known for a long time, is quite simple:

1. With the onset of cold weather, dry seeds are embedded in the soil to a depth of 1.5-2 cm.
2. After the snow cover melts, the crops are covered with sawdust or spruce branches to protect them from the cold.
3. Once stable heat has been established, the protective cover is removed.

Cabbage - outdoor care

Caring for cabbage must be carried out in compliance with basic agrotechnical requirements, which will ensure a rich harvest.

Watering

The crop needs abundant watering, which is carried out after sunset at the following intervals:

• in hot weather - once every 2-3 days;
• at moderate temperatures - every 5-6 days.

Attention! To better retain moisture and provide the cabbage with additional nutrients, the beds are mulched with a 5 cm layer of peat.

Top dressing

To form a full-fledged harvest, cabbage needs two feedings:

1. At the start active growth plants are fed 10 g ammonium nitrate, diluted in 10 liters of water, at the rate of 2 liters per specimen.
2. When forming a head of cabbage, add mineral fertilizers with a similar consumption rate - 4 g of urea, 5 g of double superphosphate, 8 g of potassium sulfate, diluted in 10 liters of water.

Loosening and hilling

Hilling of the plant is carried out twice:

• 20 days after planting seedlings in the garden;
• 10 days after the first hilling.

Diseases, pests of cabbage and treatment rules

Harmful organisms often cause trouble for gardeners.

Among the diseases are:

• Clubroot and blackleg– fungal diseases developing in the seedling phase. If clubroot appears, the affected specimen is removed, and the place where it grew is watered with lime. To prevent the development of blackleg, pre-sowing seed disinfection is important. If the disease appears, the crops must be treated with a fungicide.
• Downy mildew- Another fungal disease, the pathogen of which is found on seeds. In case of non-compliance with the regulations pre-sowing treatment seed and the development of the disease in open ground, the plantings are treated with a fungicide solution.
• Fusarium wilt– when signs of the disease appear, the affected specimen is removed from the bed along with the rhizome and burned to prevent further spread.

Among the pests that are often found on cabbage are the cabbage bug, the cabbage leaf beetle and the secretive proboscis, which are controlled by spraying with insecticides.

Important! Treatments with pesticides are carried out before the formation of heads of cabbage to avoid the accumulation of pesticide residues in the leaf blades.

Harvest and storage

Harvesting of ripened heads of cabbage and their further storage is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Three weeks before harvesting, stop watering the cabbage.
2. When the nighttime temperature drops to -2°C, harvesting begins.
3. Healthy vegetables are selected and placed under cover.
4. After a day, the stalks are cut to 2 cm, and the heads of cabbage are moved for storage in the cellar or other suitable room.
5. The fruits are stored laid out in one layer on racks, stacked in a pyramid on wooden boards, or in a suspended state.

Attention! Late ripening varieties with dense heads of cabbage are used for storage.

So, with the right approach to growing cabbage, the gardener will harvest high-quality and big harvest, which he can enjoy for a long time.

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  I repeat once again that cabbage should be planted in a spacious place; this crop loves light and water. We water the cabbage 2 times a week at the root; the soil needs to be loosened after watering. Now about feeding - 4-5 feedings are required per season, 2 weeks after planting in the ground, and then every 3 weeks. Last time 2 weeks before collection. What to feed - this is for lovers of clean farming. in a 200-liter barrel we put half of the weeds + a bucket of bird droppings, you can add old yeast, sour jam and even dry bread. Everything is filled with water and closed tightly with a lid. All contents must be mixed daily. After 10-12 days, the feeding is ready. We use 0.5 liters of fertilizer per bucket of water. Smell! Very unpleasant. But everything smells fragrant. At the end of September - beginning of October, cabbage must be harvested. This is usually done after the first frost.
  How to deal with all kinds of flea flies. You can use a tobacco-ash mixture, you can use it separately, you can plant marigolds around the perimeter of the cabbage beds, they protect our crops from various rubbish, but don’t forget, you don’t need to plant flowers among the cabbage, otherwise you’ll end up with a flower bed instead of cabbage. If you have wormwood bushes, they can also be used to repel insects. And if we’re not against chemicals, then if we’re fed up with pests, we spray them with pesticides.

  Against flea midges do this kind of thing. Stretch the non-woven material over the bed - the thinnest one. There will be no fleas and the cabbage will be fine.

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  and to prevent the cabbage from being eaten at the roots, when planting it is advised to put onion peels there.

  In general, onion peels are used for many plants. I will definitely use it - I collected it all winter. And I will definitely add a Glyocladin tablet when planting cabbage. This is also from rot.

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  Since I have never grown cabbage (any cabbage except Peking cabbage), I don’t understand how colorful my seedlings are. cabbage is good or bad.

  

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  Caring for cabbage after planting

  Caring for cabbage consists of: proper watering, loosening the soil and applying necessary and timely fertilizing.

  Watering:

  After planting, the cabbage must be watered very thoroughly, every 2-3 days for 2 weeks, spending 7-8 liters of water per 1 square meter. Then watering is reduced to once a week. It is necessary to water 10-12 meters per 1 square meter of beds.
  Early cabbage you need to water more abundantly in June, and late-ripening cabbage - in August, that is, during the period of setting heads. You can water cabbage in the evening and in the morning. The water must be at a temperature not lower than +18 degrees.

  Loosening:

  After rain or after watering, the cabbage should be loosened to a depth of 5 to 8 centimeters. You need to loosen approximately every 6 - 7 days.
  3 weeks after planting, you need to carry out the first hilling of the cabbage, and after 8 - 10 days, repeat the hilling. Since additional lateral roots will form on the plant after hilling, it is necessary to retreat from the base of the head of cabbage when loosening.

  Feeding And:

  First we need to grow a good green mass of cabbage and provide fast growth. To do this, about 20 days after planting, you need to start feeding our cabbage. In total, during the period of growth and development of cabbage, you need to fertilize the plant 3-4 times.

  First feeding: You need to dilute 2 tablespoons of Effekton fertilizer in 10 liters of water and use 0.5 liters of this solution per plant.

  Second feeding: it should be done 10 days after the first feeding. To do this, you need to dilute 0.5 liters of mullein (in the form of gruel) or 0.5 liters of bird (chicken) droppings and 1 tablespoon of Kemira fertilizer in 10 liters of water. I use 1 liter of this solution for each plant.

  These two types of fertilizing need to be done for both early and early late species cabbage

  Third feeding: This should be done in June. You need to take 2 tablespoons of superphosphate and 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. Use this solution at the rate of 5 - 7 liters per 1 square meter.

  Fourth feeding: Usually carried out in August (1 tablespoon of nitrophoska per 10 liters of water) Consumption - 5-8 liters per 1 square meter.

  Cabbage requires very fertile and structured soil, so loamy soils with sufficient organic matter (humus) and good water-holding capacity are best suited for it. In this case, the soil should be close to neutral (see article Soil Acidity).

  How to Prepare the Soil That Cabbage Loves

  If the soil on your site is acidic, with a pH value of 3.5 - 4.5, then in this case it is better to prepare the area for planting cabbage in the fall. Before digging, you need to add fluff lime to the dry soil, or dolomite flour, or powdered chalk. For 1 square meter, 1 - 2 glasses will be enough. After this, the bed must be dug up immediately and left until spring.

  In the spring, when the soil is ready, it is necessary to add organic and mineral fertilizers to it. From minerals - per 1 square meter I add
  1 teaspoon of urea,
  1 cup wood ash
  1 tablespoon of nitrophoska or superphosphate (powdered).

  From organic - half a bucket of humus or compost per square meter. After application, the bed needs to be dug up.

  This method of applying fertilizers is called “broadcast” application. It's not very economical. If your fertilizer reserves are small, then you can apply all the fertilizers directly into the holes before planting cabbage seedlings. This method is especially suitable for planting early cabbage. So:

  Fertilizers should be added to each hole and thoroughly mixed with the soil in the following quantities:
  300 – 350 grams of humus or compost
  1 – 2 tablespoons wood ash
  1 teaspoon of superphosphate or nitrophoska

  After this, you need to water the prepared area well, as well as the seedlings, and begin planting.

  Timing for planting seedlings:

  I plant early varieties of cabbage from April 25 to May 5, and late varieties from May 10 to 20. Deadline disembarkation - June 1. I would like to note that I live in the middle Volga region, and in other regions planting times may differ markedly, so it is best to consult with local gardeners about the timing of planting cabbage in your climate zone.

  Technology for planting cabbage seedlings in a permanent place:

  Early varieties of cabbage should be planted according to the following scheme: between rows - 40 - 45 centimeters, and in a row - 20 - 25 centimeters.

  For late varieties The planting scheme is as follows: between rows - 55 - 60 centimeters, in a row - 30 - 35 centimeters.

  When planting seedlings, the following points must be observed:
  Seedlings are planted in cloudy weather, and if the weather is constantly hot and sunny, then in the afternoon.
  When planting, seedlings are buried down to the first true leaves.
  In order for the seedlings to take root faster, for the first 5 - 6 days after planting they need to be sprayed with a watering can 2 - 3 times a day.
  In April and May, very strong sun rays can lead to burns of young cabbage plants, so in the first 2 to 3 days after planting, the seedlings are shaded.

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Hello, dear friends!

The topic of today's article is Caring for cabbage after planting in open ground.

Early varieties should be sown from April 25 to May 5.
Late varieties - from May 10 to May 20. The deadline for disembarkation is no later than June 1.

Caring for cabbage involves proper watering, loosening the soil and applying the necessary and timely fertilizing.

Watering:

After planting, the cabbage must be watered very thoroughly, every 2-3 days for 2 weeks, spending 7-8 liters of water per 1 square meter. Then watering is reduced to once a week. It is necessary to water 10-12 meters per 1 square meter of beds.
Early cabbage needs to be watered more abundantly in June, and late-ripening cabbage - in August, that is, during the period of setting heads. You can water cabbage in the evening and in the morning. The water must be at a temperature not lower than +18 degrees.

Loosening:

After rain or after watering, the cabbage should be loosened to a depth of 5 to 8 centimeters. You need to loosen approximately every 6 - 7 days.
3 weeks after planting, you need to carry out the first hilling of the cabbage, and after 8 - 10 days, repeat the hilling. Since additional lateral roots will form on the plant after hilling, it is necessary to retreat from the base of the head of cabbage when loosening.

Feeding:

First we need to build up good green mass of cabbage and ensure rapid growth. To do this, about 20 days after planting, you need to start feeding our cabbage. In total, during the period of growth and development of cabbage, you need to fertilize the plant 3-4 times.

First feeding: You need to dilute 2 tablespoons of Effekton fertilizer in 10 liters of water and use 0.5 liters of this solution per plant.

Second feeding: you need to do it 10 days after the first feeding. To do this, you need to dilute 0.5 liters of mullein (in the form of gruel) or 0.5 liters of bird (chicken) droppings and 1 tablespoon of Kemira fertilizer in 10 liters of water. I use 1 liter of this solution for each plant.

These two types of fertilizing need to be done for both early and late types of cabbage.

Third feeding: It should be carried out in June. You need to take 2 tablespoons of superphosphate and 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. Use this solution at the rate of 5 - 7 liters per 1 square meter.

Fourth feeding: Usually carried out in August (1 tablespoon of nitrophoska per 10 liters of water) Consumption - 5-8 liters per 1 square meter.

Dust can be used as a fertilizer to control cabbage pests (snails, aphids, slugs). wood ash soil near the plant. Use 1 cup of ash per 1 square meter.

The article describes how I care for cabbage after planting it in open ground. I would be glad if, in the comments to the article, you tell us about your methods and subtleties of caring for cabbage.

There are two ways to grow white cabbage: seedlings and non-seedlings; in the latter case, the seeds are sown directly into the ground. Most often, cabbage is planted in the ground as seedlings, but in the central and southern regions, mid- and late-ripening varieties sown with seeds grow well.

Planting cabbage

Regardless of how cabbage is grown, you first need to prepare the seeds. First, the seeds are checked for germination. They need to be placed in a damp piece of cloth. High-quality seeds will germinate in 4-5 days. Then you need to lower them into hot water(48-50 °C), and after 20 minutes - into the cold. If you leave the seeds in water for 1-2 days, the seedlings will sprout 2-3 days earlier. It is useful to soak the seeds in a solution of nitrophos or nitroammophos (1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water), then rinse clean water and put it in the refrigerator - this will harden the seeds. In order to grow cabbage seedlings yourself, you must take into account that the seeds of early cabbage are sown no later than March 20, and late cabbage seeds - from February 15 to April 15. The substrate for seedlings is prepared from sand, peat and turf soil, taken in equal proportions. The substrate is carefully leveled and watered with a solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 10 liters of water). Then grooves are made in the soil 1 cm deep so that the distance between them is 3 cm. The seeds are sown in the grooves and sprinkled with the same soil. Be sure to water the future seedlings through a strainer with water. When growing seedlings in room conditions care must be taken to ensure that there is no lack of light. This condition is especially important in the first few days after planting the seeds. During this period it is necessary additional lighting. To do this, use fluorescent lamps of 40-60 watts, install them at a distance of 10-15 cm above the seedlings. The lamps must be turned on every day for 8-10 hours for a month. As for temperature, this is an equally important factor.

If you grow seedlings in low temperature conditions, this can lead to plant death or the development of diseases. However, it must be taken into account that when growing cold-resistant varieties, it is useful to maintain temperatures of up to 6-8 °C in the first days after germination, and in the subsequent period - not lower than 12 °C. When the seedlings grow, you need to pay attention to them appearance. If the seedlings are light green in color, they need nitrogen fertilizing. But you should not add too much nitrogen, as this delays the formation of fruits. At the end of the seedling period, seedlings need phosphorus-potassium nutrition. It is enough to fertilize 1-2 times: after picking and in case there are nutritional deficiencies. Best suited for this bird droppings. It must be remembered that seedlings must be watered regularly, but not over-watered. It is best to water the seedlings generously 2 times a week, and sunny days, if the soil dries out very much, every other day. After picking, the seedlings can be watered every day so that the soil is always slightly moist. With the appearance of the first true leaf, the seedlings can be planted in pots. For early ripening varieties, pots measuring 5x5 cm are suitable, for late varieties - 8x8 cm. Before planting, 10-15 days before, it is recommended to harden the seedlings by taking them out to Fresh air on a short time. Seedlings can be planted at the age of 45-60 days. Before planting, you need to carefully examine the seedlings and remove plants with signs of disease and weak ones. For planting you need to choose hardened plants with a well-developed root system and an intact apical bud. Seedlings that have 6-7 true leaves take root best. It does not break from the wind and does not lose moisture. Having selected the plants, you need to shorten the long roots before planting.

In order to get a good harvest of cabbage, it is necessary to plant it in fertile, breathable soils with a neutral reaction. Early ripening varieties cabbages grow well on sandy loam, light loamy and floodplain soils, medium and late cabbages grow well on chernozems and peat bogs, as well as soddy-podzolic soils. If the area is waterlogged, cabbage should be planted on ridges or ridges. For early varieties of cabbage, it is recommended to choose areas where the snow melted first, that is, well heated by the sun. For medium and late varieties of cabbage, the area is additionally loosened with a hoe or rake to remove, if not all, then at least part of the weeds and eliminate the crust on the surface of the earth. First, early cabbage is planted, then seedlings of late-ripening varieties so that it can form a head of cabbage before the onset of cold weather. Before planting, be sure to water the seedlings in pots. Seedlings should be planted deep enough, to the level of the first leaf, so that the plant develops adventitious roots. But at the same time, you need to ensure that the apical bud is not covered. After planting the plant, compact the soil around it well so that the root is in close contact with the soil and there are no voids not filled with soil. Before planting, the holes need to be watered with water (1-2 liters per hole). After planting, the plants need to be watered again and sprinkled with dry soil. After planting is completed, the compacted row spacing is loosened. The area is marked in advance to provide the best feeding area for the plants. Row and square planting methods are suitable for cabbage; the variety of cabbage and soil fertility must also be taken into account. Early cabbage is planted in fertile soil in rows with a distance between them of 60-70 cm, and between rows - 25-30 cm. If the soil is not very well fertilized, the feeding area should be larger - 30-35 cm in a row, and between rows - 60 -70 cm. Mid-season varieties are planted in rows, maintaining a distance between them of 70 cm, and between plants - at least 50 cm. Late varieties should be planted at a distance of at least 60 cm.

If the time for planting seedlings has already passed, you can sow cabbage seeds. The grooves are made in such a way that the distance between them is at least 10 cm, and the depth is 1-2 cm. You can also make holes 2-3 cm deep at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other with row spacing of 60-70 cm. In each 2-3 seeds are placed in each hole. Sowing time is late April - early May. To protect crops from the night cold, they need to be covered with film for 2-3 weeks and then removed. 3-4 weeks after sowing, when the seedlings appear, they need to be thinned out, leaving a distance of 30-40 cm between them. If the seeds were planted in a hole, then after 2-3 leaves appear on the sprouts, the seedlings need to be thinned out, leaving only one strong plant. Seedlings various types cabbage, as well as Chinese cabbage can be grown in greenhouses. Seeds need to be sown in rows with a gap of 10 cm between rows. Make sure that the distance between cabbage sprouts should be at least 7 cm, since with frequent planting the seedlings stretch out, the internodes lengthen, and the stem becomes thin. When 2-3 true leaves form and warm days arrive, the film needs to be opened slightly, and if the weather permits, then completely removed.

Cabbage care

Caring for cabbage means watering, regularly loosening the soil, fertilizing and protecting it from pests and diseases. It has already been said above that cabbage is a very moisture-loving plant, so the main thing when growing cabbage is to water it well. Especially a lot of water is needed during the formation and growth of heads of cabbage. If early varieties of cabbage are grown on light soils middle zone, it should be watered at least 5-6 times per season. Mid- and late-ripening cabbage needs to be watered even more often. In dry times, it is also necessary to water cabbage at least 8-12 times a season. When watering with a hose or watering can, make sure that the pressure is not strong - this will avoid soil compaction and water runoff. Already two weeks after planting in open ground, you need to inspect the area and replace wilted plants with new ones. They need to be planted a few centimeters from their original location. And when the plants take root, after 4-5 days, treat the soil in a row. At first, when the roots are still small, you can loosen close to the plants, leaving 4–5 cm around the plant unloosened.

As the root system grows, this area should increase. During loosening, all weeds must be removed. They should not be left on the site; it is better to take them out compost heap. It is recommended to combine loosening with hilling. Timely loosening of the soil reduces the need for water by 20-25%. For good growth cabbage needs organic fertilizers, which are best applied to the soil in the fall during digging. You can use horse, cow, pig manure, poultry manure and compost. The amount of manure applied should be as follows: in poorly cultivated soils - 5-6 kg per 1 m2, in well-cultivated soils - 3-4 kg, in floodplain soils - 4-5 kg, in chernozem soils - 3-5 kg, and in lowland peatlands - 2-2.5 kg per 1 m2. This amount is calculated for mid- and late-ripening varieties. To better provide cabbage useful substances, it is advisable to add ammonium nitrate to the manure (0.1 kg per 10-15 kg of manure). Mineral fertilizers can also be applied during the formation of heads of cabbage. There are the following norms for the use of ammonium nitrate: 30-35 g per 1 m2 of sandy and loamy soils, 20-27 g per 1 m2 of floodplain soils, 10-15 g per 1 m2 of drained peatlands. The rates of simple superphosphate are 40-60, 30-40, 35–40 g per 1 m2, respectively, and potassium chloride - 10-15, 15-20 and 15-30 g, respectively. Already 15-18 days after planting the seedlings, you need to carry out the first fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. For mid- and late-ripening varieties, it is necessary to add half the norm of ammonium nitrate, 1/4 part of superphosphate and 1/5 part of potassium chloride. After another 20 days, you need to add the remaining dose of ammonium nitrate and superphosphate, as well as 40% potassium chloride. And only when the head of cabbage begins to form can you fertilize with the remaining dose of potassium chloride. Mineral supplements can be alternated with organic ones. Fertilizer can be applied dry or diluted in water (70-80 g of fertilizer mixture per 10 liters of water). When fertilizing for the first time, apply it directly to the plant, the second and third time - between the rows of plants with a large planting depth. If the fertilizer is dry, apply it after watering or after rain. Ammonium nitrate is most suitable for dry fertilizing as a nitrogen fertilizer. Nitrogen fertilizers help speed up the process of head formation. They are especially important for early cabbage varieties.

Pest and disease control of cabbage

Cabbage fly. This insect causes especially great damage to the plant in rainy years. It is found almost everywhere, but most of all it is found in the non-chernozem and central zones. There are spring and summer cabbage flies, among which the spring one is more dangerous. She looks like housefly, but lighter and smaller: the length of the spring fly is 6 mm, the summer fly is 7-8 mm. Its larvae infect the root and bottom part cabbage stem, the plant withers and dies. The spring fly is especially harmful to cauliflower. The pupae of the spring fly overwinter in the ground at a depth of 10-15 cm, and the pupae of the summer fly are even deeper - 15-30 cm. The spring fly hatches 1-4 generations, the summer fly - one. Control measures: from chemicals You can use a solution of chlorophos (20 g per 10 liters of water), which serves to prevent egg laying. Spray the seedlings 2-3 times, taking a break of 7-10 days. It’s better to water the soil at the base of the plant in advance with a chlorophos solution (30 g per 10 liters of water). Repelling agents that can be used as naphthalene, tobacco dust mixed in half with slaked lime, as well as ash. Sprinkle the soil around the plant at the rate of 20 g of mixture per 1 m2. Oviposition cabbage fly can be destroyed if you rake the soil away from the root collar of the plant by 10-15 cm and replace it with fresh soil taken from the rows. This must be done several times during the egg laying period. If you remove the stalks from the plot after cutting the forks, cultivate the soil in the fall, hill up the cabbage, water it and apply fertilizing before hilling, you will be able to prevent damage to the cabbage by these pests.

Cruciferous flea beetle. This dangerous pest sometimes completely destroys cabbage seedlings, as well as other vegetable crops, gnawing out the pulp of the leaves. Cruciferous flea beetles– bugs 2-3 mm long, black or with yellow stripes on the underwings. They usually overwinter under plant debris or in the surface layer of soil. Control measures: plants need to be pollinated with tobacco dust. The effect will improve if you add lime and ash to it. Tobacco dust and ash can also be used as prophylactic agents, especially since they are fertilizers.

Cabbage whites. This is one of the most dangerous pests, causing harm not only to cabbage, but also to radishes, turnips, and rutabaga. The cabbage white is a butterfly with white wings with black stripes in the front; the female has 2 round black spots on the front wings. Adult caterpillars are yellow-green in color and covered with bristles and hairs. Pupae overwinter on the trunks of trees, shrubs, etc. They give 3-4 generations. Control measures: if the area is small, the caterpillars can be collected by hand and destroyed. In addition, it is recommended to weed the cabbage and neighboring areas more often. From chemicals solutions of bacterial preparations, such as entobacterin, dendrobacillin, lipitocide, are effective. The solution is prepared at the rate of 20-30 g of substance per 10 liters of water.

Cabbage moth. Caterpillars cause especially great harm. They are yellowish in color, spindle-shaped, and their length is 9-12 mm. Caterpillars are gnawing small areas sheet without affecting top part. Very often the top bud of cabbage is damaged. Distributed everywhere. In warm weather conditions they produce up to 10 generations. Control measures are the same as for cabbage whites.

Cabbage scoop . Damages cruciferous and other crops vegetable crops. It has gray-brown forewings, with a yellowish wavy line and two dark spots at the anterior edge, and the hind wings are dark gray. The caterpillars are green, greenish-brown or brownish-brown in color, with a yellow stripe along the body. They cause damage by gnawing holes in the leaves and then entering the head of cabbage and contaminating it with excrement. The caterpillars feed at night and hide at the base of the head of cabbage during the day. The head of cabbage gradually rots and acquires an unpleasant odor. The pupae overwinter in the soil at a depth of 9-12 cm. The cabbage cutworm produces 2 generations. Control measures: first of all, in the fall, you should definitely dig up the ground, carefully weed and hill up the plants. It is recommended to treat young plants with a solution of entobacterin (10-30 g per 10 l of water).

Cabbage aphid. This small insects 2 mm long, with and without wings, covered with a light waxy coating. Larvae and adult aphids infect plant leaves, feeding on their sap. The leaves become colorless or turn pinkish, curl, and the growth of heads of cabbage slows down. In the first half of summer, aphids live on weeds, and then the females fly to cabbage. They produce large offspring, up to 16 generations per summer. Their numbers can only be reduced by cold weather. Control measures: firstly, spraying with tobacco infusion. The infusion is being prepared in the following way: 50 g of tobacco is poured into 0.5 liters of water, left for 24 hours, then diluted 2-3 times and a little soap is added (40 g per 10 liters). Secondly, spraying potato tops with infusion. To do this, you need to pour 1.2 kg of tops into 10 liters of warm water, leave for 3 hours, then strain. A decoction of tomato tops is also an effective remedy. 4 kg of crushed mass should be poured into 10 liters of water, put on fire and boil for 30 minutes, then cool and strain. The decoction should be diluted with water before use (for 3 liters of decoction, 10 liters of water). Preventive measures are the destruction of cruciferous weeds and removal of stalks from the site. It is good to sow carrots and dill next to cabbage: these plants attract insects that destroy cabbage aphids.

Cruciferous bugs. These are large insects with red spots on their wings. They feed on juices from leaves. They hibernate under fallen leaves, under trees, and along the sides of ditches. In spring they live on weeds of the cabbage family, and then move to cultivated plants. Control measures consist of spraying with a solution of karbofos at the rate of 5-10 g per 10 liters of water. It is also important to control weeds.

Slugs are naked. Distributed almost everywhere. They multiply quickly in rainy years and damage many plants. They feed at night, and during the day they hide under lumps of soil, plants, and between cabbage leaves. Control measures: First of all, you need to mow the grass in nearby ditches and damp places. A solution is also used to kill slugs iron sulfate(1 kg per 10 liters of water). An effective remedy is also a mixture of ash and bleach (2 g of ash and 4 g of lime per 1 m2). You can use a mixture of tobacco dust and lime, taken in equal quantities. All measures to destroy slugs should be carried out late in the evening, when the slugs move on to the plants.

Plant diseases are another problem that gardeners have to contend with. But many diseases can be prevented or the likelihood of their occurrence reduced.

Kila. This fungal disease harms cabbage by affecting its root system. It can be recognized by the growths and swellings that appear. Control measures: dig up and destroy damaged plants. You cannot plant cabbage in this place for 5-6 years, as spores remain in the soil.

Blackleg. This fungal disease develops when seedlings are poorly cared for, if the crops are too thick, and also after sudden changes in temperature and soil humidity. The disease begins with the root collar darkening, becoming thinner and gradually rotting. The seedlings lie down and dry out. Control measures: first of all, careful care of the seedlings is necessary, compliance with all conditions for its cultivation. Before sowing and picking, it is necessary to rake TMTD into the soil (5-8 g per 1 m2).

White rot. A fungal disease that affects many vegetable crops. Root vegetables become soft and slippery, but do not change color. A loose white fluff forms on the surface of the infected area. Control measures: do not plant cabbage in the same place, apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Gray rot. This disease most often develops during storage. In this case, the bases of the petioles of the lower leaves are covered with gray fluff. Control measures: treat the storage with a 2% formaldehyde solution or an infusion of bleach (dilute 400 g of lime in 10 liters of water, let it brew for 3-4 hours). Observe the storage conditions for cabbage.

Fusarium. A fungal disease that primarily harms cabbage leaves by clogging blood vessels. As a result, cabbage seedlings wither and adult plants grow poorly. At the same time, the leaves turn yellow and sometimes fall off completely. Fusarium also manifests itself in the fact that a brown ring of blood vessels appears on a cross section of the leaf petiole. The disease often develops in hot and dry weather. A lack of potassium in the soil can also cause fusarium. Control measures: the same as for mucous bacteriosis.

Harvesting and storage

Early and mid-season varieties white cabbage, as well as cauliflower, should be harvested as the heads of cabbage ripen. To prevent heads of early ripening cabbage from cracking, they need to be bent 2-3 times in one direction. This limits the influx nutrients into a head of cabbage, and the harvesting period for heads of cabbage will increase by several days. The heads of cabbage need to be cut off carefully, leaving a stalk 3-4 cm long and the lower leaves. You can grow a second crop on such a stalk. To do this, you must first loosen the soil between the rows and rows and apply mineral fertilizers (per 1 m2 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 10 g of potassium chloride and 10 g of superphosphate). Then the plant needs to be hilled to form additional root system. These events will lead to the awakening of the buds in the axils of the remaining leaves and the formation of new small heads of cabbage. In 2-2.5 months, heads of cabbage weighing 200 g or more grow. Cabbage of medium and late varieties grown for winter storage, can be cut down or pulled out by the roots. Heads of cabbage intended not for pickling, but for storage in fresh, need to be harvested at the end of October, preferably before frost.

Cut heads of cabbage are placed in piles so that the outer leaves wilt a little and do not break during transportation. Brussels sprouts are not afraid of frost; on the contrary, they improve its taste. It can be removed late autumn. The shelf life of cabbage largely depends on the variety, so you should not store cabbage together different varieties. Cabbage is usually stored in the basement or cellar on racks. Optimal temperature storage is 0 °C, and relative humidity is 95%. A small number of heads of cabbage can be hung by the stalks from the ceiling or shelves separately from each other. If the cabbage harvest turns out to be very large, it is better to lay it on racks in 2-3 layers in the form of a pyramid. It should be taken into account that the distance between the heads of cabbage and the next shelf should be about 25-30 cm. Another way to store cabbage is in lattice boxes. The cabbage is laid with the stalks up, and the last upper layer– with the stalks inward. The boxes are placed on wood flooring, and the distance between the floor and the flooring should be about 20 cm. To prevent the formation of gray rot, cabbage can be sprinkled with chalk or slaked lime (2-3 kg per 100 kg of cabbage) before storing. Cauliflower is stored at the same temperature and relative humidity as white cabbage for 2-3 months. It is best to store it in boxes, the bottom of which is lined with plastic film. The leaves can be trimmed lightly above the head, but can be stored with all the leaves. The top of the box also needs to be covered with plastic wrap. Cauliflower can be stored in thin plastic bags.

You can also use thick cling film, but to do this you need to cut holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm on both sides of the bag. You need to place 1-2 heads in one bag, after clearing them of leaves, tie them up and put them in a box. Cabbage can be stored in bags for at least 35-40 days at a temperature of 0 °C. Another way to store cauliflower is as follows: whole plants along with the roots should be placed in boxes, the roots should be sprinkled with sand and watered generously, and the leaves should be raised. Plants with a head diameter of 25 cm are selected and dug up before frost occurs. Storage temperature should be no higher than 2-4 °C.

Video: Growing early cabbage