Planting grapes grown from cuttings. Propagation of grapes in the most effective way - cuttings

Foreword

Propagation of grapes by cuttings is the most affordable way to independently increase the number of grape bushes on the site. Having spent once on purchasing a variety you like, in a few years you can organize a whole vineyard, but for this you need to know how to plant grape cuttings in the spring.

Required Tools

Sand Knife

If you only need a few bushes of the selected variety, you may well get by with one of the oldest ways to propagate grapes - layering. The essence of the method is to dig in the vines with soil, which allows them to take root and form a new bush. However, you can’t grow a lot in this way, but chibouks allow you to grow a whole vineyard from just one bush, retaining all the properties of the mother bush. What can I say if this method is used for industrial purposes.

You need to take care of planting material in the fall, at. You need to pay attention to shoots that have fruited in the summer and have reached a diameter of at least 7 mm. Each stalk must be cut in such a way that at least 4 buds remain on it. Stepping back from the upper eye a few centimeters, you should make a cut at an angle with an inclination from the kidney. Under the lower eye, cut in a straight line.

It is recommended to stimulate the formation of roots with a knife or a needle to make three vertical strips no more than three centimeters long, trying not to hook the bast. Some growers fold the prepared planting material near the bush and sprinkle it with soil until spring, while some first moisten it with water, pickle it with a solution and, after drying in a plastic bag, send it to the refrigerator or basement for “wintering”. Over the winter, it does not hurt to inspect them several times and turn them over to the other side.

In early February, the cuttings are taken out of the shelter and checked. Branches that ooze moisture should be immediately discarded - this means that they are rotten. The rest of the cuttings are checked with a pruner - squeeze the cross section between the blades, if a few drops of water come out of it, this means that the cutting has successfully survived the winter.

When cross-sectioned, the core of the cutting should be light green, without any inclusions of black.

The future grape bushes selected in this way should be soaked in warm water for two days, renewing the water every day, and for another day in a growth or root formation stimulator.

After that, there are two options for the development of events - either you immediately plant the cuttings, or germinate them, forming a plant that is completely ready for planting.

Planting chibouks of grapes in the spring under a crowbar or a shovel does not require any germination efforts. After you have soaked the cuttings, make a hole up to 60 cm deep at the landing site with a crowbar or stake. The hole must be expanded to a diameter of 10 cm so that the stalk can fit freely in it. We insert it into the hole with the upper eye towards the row and fill the hole with earth. It is important that the top eye is no deeper than 5 cm below the soil surface. We tamp the earth and water it.

If the land was prepared in advance, it is possible to plant chibouks under a shovel. To do this, dig a hole about half a meter deep, into which we set the cutting obliquely or directly. We drop it to half and pour 1-2 buckets of heated water into the hole, after it has been absorbed, we fill the hole completely, so that the upper eye is just below the soil level. It is important in the future to water not the cuttings themselves, but the soil around them no closer than 20 cm.

Sprouting in glasses or bottles requires more effort, but the results will be better. To do this, you will need a large plastic glass or a bottle cut in half. We make several holes in the bottom, fill the bottom with earth, then put inside a small glass without a bottom, into which we fill the washed river sand. The gap between the walls of the glasses should be covered with earth and rammed.

In the center of the sand zone, make a small depression into which the cutting should be inserted and watered abundantly. You need to water often, every day and only with warm water. Gradually, the chubuk will have roots, and the eyes will release leaves. When there are at least four leaves, the seedling is ready for planting. Before planting grape cuttings in the spring in the soil, it should be dug up in advance and fertilized with rotted manure and foliage.

It is only for the good of grapes to engage in its cultivation from cuttings in the spring. After all, this is the most successful moment for propagating planting material in order to obtain the required quantity and quality of seedlings. About when it is right to start germinating cuttings, about various methods of germination, as well as planting cuttings in pots at home and planting immediately in a greenhouse or in open ground, will be discussed in our article.

Note! The site already has a number of detailed review articles about the most popular and best grape varieties:

When to start germinating grape cuttings

It is difficult to name a specific date when it is already possible to get and start germinating grape cuttings, because there are several very important factors on which your terms will depend specifically, namely:

• how long will it take to germinate;

Note! If you can keep the optimal temperature conditions for germination, then the cuttings will be ready for planting much earlier than if they germinate under less suitable conditions.

• depending on the method of germination (if with kilching, then it can be planted earlier; if without kilching, then 5-7 days later);
• when the warm season begins in your region (the earth warms up enough, at least up to +10 degrees);
• where you will plant (if in your backyard, i.e. you live in a private house, then you can - early; if in the country, where you visit 1-2 times a week, then - later).

The fact is that in the event of return spring frosts, you must quickly respond and cover the seedlings, and this cannot always be done if your summer cottage is far from home.

As a result, from the moment of germination of cuttings to the planting of already vegetative seedlings of grapes, on average takes about 2.5 months (70-80 days).

Thus, if you live:

• in the south of Russia, then take cuttings for germination from the repository end of January-beginning of February to start plant young seedlings in open ground , already starting from the middle to the last days of April.
• in the Middle lane (Moscow region) cuttings should be taken for germination much later, somewhere at the end of February-beginning of March, to planted in the ground in the second half-end of May.

Video: when to start germinating grape cuttings

Is it possible to cut grape cuttings in spring

Many novice gardeners are wondering: "Is it possible to cut grape cuttings in the spring?".

Of course, you can, but it will be relatively problematic to do this:

Therefore, grapes are cut in autumn.

By the way! About, how to cut grapes in the fall, read in . In general, in the spring the procedure is carried out similarly.

How to prepare grape cuttings for spring planting

Video: planting a vegetative seedling in open ground

Video: planting vegetative grape seedlings in the ground (according to Puzenko)

Features of caring for planted cuttings of grapes in the open field

Naturally, in the first year, a young seedling should be carefully monitored and cared for.

After planting, it is desirable to shade the bush at least a little for the first 10-15 days, even if it is hardened, since the active sun will still burn out chlorophyll, and the leaves will wither.

In case of unexpected return frosts - a slight decrease in temperature (to zero) you should throw spunbond over the seedlings. And if severe frost expected(up to -3..-5 degrees), then the shelter should be made even more solid. oidium

Video: how to root a grape cutting - growing grape seedlings from chubuk

It's time to start growing grape seedlings for spring planting from pre-harvested or purchased cuttings if you are a supporter of self-grown green grapes, or for other reasons have chosen this particular method of laying a vineyard, for example, to save money on buying seedlings.

I will talk about the method that, in my opinion, is most suitable for those who grow a small number of grape seedlings for themselves in an apartment. For a dozen cuttings, it makes no sense to use special technologies, build kilchevators, etc. And with a small number of them, you can apply a method with a higher yield of seedlings than the traditional shkolka.

In late February - early March, the vine is removed from the storage place (cellar, refrigerator, etc.) and cut into 2-3 eyed cuttings. The upper cut is made at a distance of 1 ... 2 cm above the eye, the lower - slightly obliquely at a distance of 0.5 ... 1.0 cm below the eye (diaphragm). It is better to smooth the lower sections with a sharp knife so that there are no remnants of the crushed cambium after cutting with a pruner.

After that, the cuttings are soaked for a day in settled tap water (preferably boiled or melted water) with the addition of stimulants: honey (a tablespoon per 10 liters), heteroauxin and preparations based on it, charkor, fumara, sodium humate, humisol, etc. - in accordance with the attached instructions.

I soak the cut cuttings in a solution of sodium humate, and after removing the cuttings from the water, I air them for 15–20 minutes, and in the lower part of the cutting I make 2–3 shallow vertical grooves with a knife, each 1–2 cm long. After that, I rub the drug into the sections and grooves Kornevin (I wash my hands thoroughly).

Naturally, if you have several varieties, the cuttings must be marked after cutting to eliminate confusion.

Then, in an ordinary half-liter jar (or several, depending on the number of cuttings), I put a layer of cotton wool a couple of centimeters thick on the bottom, and pour the same layer (about 2 cm) of boiled water. Before pouring, it must, of course, be cooled and it is advisable to add a couple of crystals of potassium permanganate to obtain a pale pink color, and also put a piece of charcoal in a jar. This is necessary to prevent rapid turbidity and deterioration of water.

Grape cuttings are placed in a jar, a jar - on the windowsill. Everything. Now you need to monitor the water level every 2-3 days, maintaining its thickness within 0.5 ... 1 cm. Even if you forget to look into the jar for some day and the water evaporates, the wet cotton wool will not allow future grape seedlings to dry .

Scientists have proven that roots are best formed not in the water itself, but at the water / air boundary, from the moistened part of the cambium. In grapes, the first roots begin to grow from the nodes of the cutting. This method just provides a combination of both of these conditions: a thin layer of water - the necessary aeration, and the optimal distance of the lower cut from the node - the passage of the water / air boundary along the node.

If personally your cuttings will be nodes in the water 5 mm deeper or smaller - it's okay, it's still impossible to achieve the ideal, and not everything is known for certain about the rooting process ...

For especially meticulous more advice.

You can put a plastic bag on top. It will turn out such a window greenhouse, the humidity in which will be higher compared to the dry air in the apartment. You will add water less often, and the blooming buds are good.

If it is possible to ensure heating of the lower part of the cuttings: put the jar on a warm (but not hot!) base, for example, on a metal sheet above a heating radiator, etc. - use it, it will increase the likelihood and speed of rooting of grape cuttings.

But if this is not possible - do not worry too much. You can strive for the ideal endlessly, and everything that needs to be done is mandatory, you have already done it.

As a rule, buds open first, and then roots appear. Between these events, an average of 2 ... 3 weeks pass. When less, and when more, depending on the variety and quality of the vine. Sometimes, and up to two months you need to wait for the roots! This method is good because the emerging shoots are easily provided with water, even when there are no roots yet: they simply suck it out of the jar.

And one more important point. If one shoot came out of the kidney, and after it a second one appears after a few days (from the replacement kidney), and there are no roots yet, remove (carefully break it out) first, stronger from escapes! Do not be sorry: any, even the very last, shoot will give the beginning to your bush, but the first, violently growing one, can use up the entire supply of nutrients from the tissues of the cutting, and they may not be enough to form roots. Naturally, if an inflorescence germ appeared on the shoot, it must be pinched off immediately!

Now watch for the appearance of roots in your future grape seedlings. First, tubercles of callus appear on the cut and from scratches, and then the first roots form from them. It is not necessary to allow them to grow more than 0.5 ... 1 cm: then, when transplanted, they easily break off!

Cuttings with roots that have appeared - almost seedlings - are planted in any suitable container, depending on the possibility of placing seedlings in the apartment.

I had to plant both in peat pots with a capacity of 200g, and in 5-liter plastic containers ... Of course, the larger the capacity, the more powerful your plant will grow by the beginning of May! The most optimal containers are 0.5 ... 1 liter. They can be plastic disposable beer glasses, cut-top cardboard or plastic bags for kefir or yogurt, PET bottles cut in half, etc.

The soil mixture is prepared very light: 1 part garden (preferably soddy) soil + 1 part humus + 1 part sand, or 1 part purchased universal soil mixture + 1 part sand. The cutting is planted so that its heel is deepened by 1/4 ... 1/3 of the container. Rule: leave as much volume as possible at the bottom for the development of the roots, and at the same time, so that the cutting does not fall, but stays in the container. Transplant very carefully: young roots are quite fragile! Water well after transplanting. It is very good to add perlite or vermiculite to the soil mixture instead of sand. They are lightweight and hold moisture well.

If the earth is normal: not very heavy and not very acidic, then the cuttings take root quickly and grow well. Monitor the condition of the leaves: with an unbalanced chemical composition of the soil and with increased acidity, they can chlorosis (the leaf blade dries out from the edge) and even die! In this case, a universal remedy: wood ash. 2-3 tablespoons are infused in 1 liter of water and cups with seedlings are well spilled. You can even do this for prevention, at the same time as planting cuttings. After a couple of weeks, the operation can be repeated. Additionally, a solution of manganese chelate helps well: it is sold in specialized stores. It is applied according to the instructions.

With good growth of grape seedlings, you can proceed to their accelerated formation by pinching.

For example, if you plan to grow 2 (or more) sleeves, then, with a planting depth of 40 cm in your area, pinch the shoot at a distance of 30-35 cm from the heel, when it reaches the appropriate length. Stepchildren will develop from the two upper buds, which will become the future sleeves.

How to expand your vineyard without spending too much? The most ancient method - propagation of grapes by layering - will allow you to root the vines without separating them from the mother bush, however, this way you can grow a relatively small number of rooted shoots from one mother plant.

The main methods of propagation of grapes

One of the time-tested ways of propagating a culture is to sprinkle the vines with earth. If it is still green, then the procedure is carried out at the end of June, if it is already lignified - in the spring. Sprinkle in such a way that the top remains above the surface of the earth. In autumn, each of the sprouts is separated from its neighbors, placed in markets and cleaned in a special room until spring. For the northern regions, this option is practically not suitable, since the roots will form at the point of growth of the shoot, and such roots often die from frost.

Powdering the vine with earth has an original modified version, in which at the end of June a bag with a special soil mixture of soil and peat is attached to the base of the shoot. By autumn, roots form in this place and a full-fledged grape seedling can be used for its intended purpose. However, this option also has the same drawback - young roots will be sensitive to negative temperatures.

To obtain high-quality material in a significant amount, you can use the layering method:

• horizontal - obtaining seedlings for transplanting to a new place, a groove up to 20 cm deep;
• deep - replacement of old (uterine) bushes, a groove with a hole in the place of the intended exit of the shoot up to 50 cm deep.

In the cold northern regions, the most widespread method of propagation of grapes by cuttings. The material is harvested from autumn and stored in a box with wet sand to protect it from drying out. In March, they begin to germinate in glass jars, and after the first roots appear, they are planted in bags with soil. May is the time for planting young seedlings in a permanent place.

Preparation of cuttings for winter storage

Grafting of branches is usually used to replace one variety with another. Sowing with seeds does not justify itself, since out of a thousand seedlings only one or two are of high quality, the rest grow worse than the original.

The most popular and effective way is the propagation of grapes by cuttings in winter or summer. It is based on the natural ability of a culture to fully recover from a single shoot, retaining all the properties of the mother vine. This method is used in the industrial cultivation of these plants, they know how to propagate grapes and amateur gardeners. Since, grown from cuttings, it has its own, and not grafted, root system, it is often called own-rooted.

If you decide to learn from your own experience how to grow grapes from a cutting, you will have to take care of the preparation of the material in advance, even when. When cutting off unnecessary branches, pay attention to the shoots that bear fruit in summer, the diameter of which is 7-10 mm. As a cutting, a shoot is suitable, which is cut into a replacement knot, or the middle part of the fruit arrow.

The most popular and effective way is the propagation of grapes by cuttings in winter or summer.

How the cutting is prepared:

• remove all shoots, leaves, antennae, stepchildren and unripened tops from the branch;
• each stalk will need to be cut so that 4 buds remain on them;
• cut the cutting at an angle, stepping back from the upper kidney up a couple of centimeters, the cut is made with an inclination from the eye;
• cut the lower part of the handle under the lower eye in a straight line;
• make on the bottom to improve root formation three vertical strips to the bast (3 cm long) with a needle or a knife;
• tie all prepared cuttings into bundles in accordance with the variety and mark;
• bunches of cuttings are placed in clean water for a day to increase physiological humidity, and then they are etched with copper sulfate (5%) and dried;
• after these procedures, the bunches of cuttings can be wrapped in a film or in a plastic bag and stored in a refrigerator, cellar, or basement.

The cuttings lying in storage during the winter should be inspected 1-2 times and turned over to the other side.

Video about propagation of grapes by cuttings

Options for germinating cuttings

A couple of weeks before planting in the ground for germination, in early February, the cuttings need to be taken out, checked for freshness by pressing on the cross section with a pruner. If a few drops of water come out, it means that the stalk is well preserved, no drops appear - the twig is dry, moisture oozes from the branch without pressure - the stalk is rotten. Make a fresh cross section and pay attention to its color: it should be light green, there should not be any black blotches.

In order for the propagation of grapes to be successful, you need to soak in warm water those cuttings that are best preserved over the winter. Soaking lasts two days with a daily water change, after which it is recommended to place the branches for a day in a root formation stimulator.

Before propagating grapes by cuttings, you need to germinate them at home in plastic cups or bottles.

In order for the propagation of grapes to be successful, you need to soak in warm water those cuttings that are best preserved over the winter.

Option 1. Sprouting in glasses:

• prepare large plastic glasses by making three holes in the bottom with an awl;
• pour earth mixed with leaf humus into the bottom of the glasses, with a layer of 2 cm;
• place a smaller glass without a bottom on top of the soil, filling the gap between the walls of the glasses with earth, compact and pour the earth;
• pour washed river sand into the inner glass, pour it over and remove the glass;
• in the very center of the sand, make a 4 cm deepening with a stick, insert the stalk there and pour the sand;
• pour sand on top, cover the glass with a plastic bottle without a bottom and without a lid.

Every day or every two days, you will need to water the seedlings with warm water. And when the roots are visible at the walls of the glass, and 4 leaves grow on the branch, the bottle can be removed.

Option 2. Sprouting in a bottle:

• make several holes in the bottom in a plastic bottle with a cut neck;
• fill the drainage layer;
• pour 7 tablespoons of soil mixture over the drainage;
• stick the cutting at an angle into the soil mixture so that the top soil or eye is at the level of the top of the bottle;
• pour steamed old sawdust on top;
• cover the cutting with a plastic cup.

The cup can be removed when the shoot no longer fits in it.

Put a bottle with a handle with a peephole from the window. The cup can be removed when the shoot no longer fits in it. It should be watered from below through the pan, pouring a little water into it and placing a bottle with a seedling there for 15 minutes.

How grapes are propagated by green cuttings

It is possible to germinate green cuttings cut at the very beginning of flowering. To do this, you will need shoots that are obtained by stepping and breaking off branches in the spring. Place the cut shoots immediately in a bucket filled with clean water. Take out each shoot, cut into cuttings with two buds and put them back in the water.

You can germinate and green cuttings, cut at the very beginning of flowering

For cuttings, the lower cut should be made oblique under the lower node. When cutting off the top above the knot, leave a stump of 2-3 cm. Ready-made green cuttings are planted in a box or in separate plastic cups. It is necessary to create a slight darkening for them, which is removed after the cuttings noticeably started to grow.

Video about the propagation of grapes by green cuttings

All summer the cuttings will grow, and in the fall they will need to be placed in the cellar for storage. Transplant the seedlings into the ground in the spring and grow in a bucket during the summer. Seedlings obtained from cuttings are planted in the vineyard in mid-September.

Reproduction by layering

Layers are called rooted lower shoots, which are placed in the ground in a special way without detaching from the parent bush until the seedling ripens. Depending on the age of the shoot and the nuances of laying the grooves, the following methods are distinguished:

• dry;
• green;
• semi-green;
• horizontal;
• deep;
• Chinese;
• katavlak, etc.

The chronology of actions during the propagation of grapes by layering obeys the following algorithm:

1. Formation of a groove 15 cm wide and up to 20 cm deep in the right direction from the mother bush. This procedure should be carried out before the appearance of buds on the vine.
2. Filling the groove ¾ with a mixture of soil with humus.
3. Laying the vine along the groove with pinning it to the ground with the help of wire, slingshots and other devices to fix the position.
4. Backfilling the laid vines with soil mixture and thorough watering with water with the addition of manganese.
5. Covering the layers with a film until the first leaves appear above the ground. This technique allows you to create an optimal microclimate.
6. Regular watering and tying young shoots to pegs made of wood or metal.
7. Pinching young shoots at the end of summer will cause them to ripen.
8. With the onset of autumn, the layer is dug up, divided into parts, the roots of each seedling are lowered into a clay solution and sent for storage.

Did you know that no more than two layers are formed from one bush, and layering can be done in the middle of summer, if you remove the leaves from the shoot before laying it in the trench.

How to propagate parthenocissus

The girlish (wild) look is a liana widely used in decorating country buildings: a gazebo, a fence, a wall of a house, etc. For its reproduction, several methods are used:

A curious fact: for high-quality rooting, two seasons may be required.

Regardless of the chosen method of propagation of girlish grapes, you should take care of soil preparation in advance:

1. At the proposed landing site, they dig a hole with a width of 60 cm and a depth of at least 50 cm.
2. The pit is 2/5 filled with broken bricks or large gravel, providing drainage.
3. From above they fall asleep with a soil mixture of two parts of earth, two parts of peat and one part of sand.

When planting seedlings, a distance of one meter is observed between two adjacent specimens.

How is planting a crop in open ground

To begin with, choose the location of the future vineyard, taking into account the following recommendations:

• south or west side;
• lack of tall trees nearby;
• protection from strong winds and low temperatures in the form of a building wall.

The order of planting depends on the properties of the soil in which the grapes will grow. So, for chernozem and clay, the following technology is followed:

1. Dig a hole 80x80 cm with the same depth.
2. ¼ fill the hole with a mixture of soil with humus and tamp.
3. 300 g of superphosphate and potassium fertilizer are mixed with 3 liters of ash, added to the soil and another layer is formed, twice as thin as the previous one.
4. The third layer of 5 cm is represented only by soil.
5. After all the manipulations, the pit is half filled.
6. A small mound is formed in the center, a seedling is placed vertically on it (with a length of more than 25 cm, it should be placed under a slope) and the roots are evenly straightened.
7. The grapes are covered with soil to the level of growth, the ground is carefully tamped and 2-3 buckets of water are poured.
8. The top layer (up to 10 cm) is subjected to loosening, watering is repeated twice in two weeks, accompanied by loosening and mulching.
9. To support the seedling, a peg is installed, to which it is tied, leaving one shoot.

If the soil is sandy, then the pit is deepened to 1 meter, forming the first layer of 20 cm from clay soil. You will also have to water more often and more abundantly - once a week, 4 buckets of water.
If the seedlings have a lignified trunk, then they start planting, taking into account weather conditions, at the end of April. Green vegetative specimens are best planted in June. When choosing the autumn period (from October to frost), young plants should be carefully covered with peat, needles or sawdust.

Kira Stoletova

Grapes are a perennial shrub popular with gardeners for their taste. The fruits of the plant are eaten raw and also used for processing. The berries are used to make a popular drink - wine. Growing grapes from cuttings at home is one of the best ways to get a good harvest.

slicing

The best time for cutting chibouks (not planting, but cutting) is autumn, when all the weak and diseased branches of the bush die off.

Spring is also suitable in the period before flowering. They are cut along the edges with a sharp blade. To do this, select branches with a thickness of at least 1 cm and a length of about 40 cm.

Cutting rules:

• cutting grape cuttings in the fall is carried out only after all the leaves have fallen from the plant;
• choose grape shank, which give the most bunches;
• grape cuttings are not made from too curved vines;

A prerequisite is the presence of 3-4 buds on the chubuk. The cut cutting is soaked. To do this, it is placed in a nutrient mixture or filtered warm water for 48 hours. By soaking, the chibouk retains all the useful substances necessary for growth. The nutrient solution is copper sulphate diluted in water.

After the required time has passed, the soaked grape cuttings are divided into 2 parts so that both have an equal number of buds, and are returned to the nutrient liquid. If the cultivation of grape seedlings from cuttings is planned in a box or pots, an incision is made at a right angle on each chubuk on one side.

Reproduction in autumn

Harvesting grape cuttings for growing in the fall should begin before the onset of frost. Preparatory processes are carried out from the summer. To do this, moisten the soil, make mineral and organic fertilizers.

The ideal soil for planting homemade grapes is black soil. The place for growing should be protected from drafts and well lit, without tall trees growing nearby.

Landing in the ground

Planting of finished cuttings of grapes is carried out in grooves.

To do this, the furrow is cut to a depth of up to 30 cm and a width of at least 20 cm. The distance between the rows must be at least 40 cm. When planting, mineral fertilizers, as well as compost and ash, are added to the groove.

The distance between the seedlings in one row should be about 15 cm. The cuttings are planted in open ground so that they are inclined at a right angle towards the north. After planting, the seedlings are watered with plenty of water and spud to better root.

An alternative way is to plant grape cuttings in holes. Their depth should be about 25 cm, and the width should be at least 20 cm. The distance between them should not be less than 2 m. 2 cuttings are planted in one hole at the same time so that one will definitely take root.

the top layer of soil is loosened to allow oxygen to reach the roots. If the soil in the area is sandy, a hole is dug to a depth of 1 m. Watered once a week, 50 liters of water, and the plantings are regularly fed.

Preservation of cuttings

So that grape cuttings do not die from winds and frosts, they are covered in winter. To build a greenhouse, you will need metal racks and a film. The height must be at least 50 cm. Under such conditions, the cuttings grow until spring.

It is also effective to cover grape chibouks with a layer of soil to a height of 40 cm. For better oxygen access and heat preservation, layers of soil, grass and dry branches alternate. From above, everything is also covered with a film, in which cuts are made with the beginning of spring.

Growing cuttings in spring

To plant seedlings in the spring, it is better to cut them in the fall before the cold weather and store them all winter. For safety, the cuttings are provided with comfortable conditions. This includes the right temperature and humidity.

The first step is sorting the chibouks by grade. Cuttings of the same species are tied with a string, put in a plastic bag or wrapped tightly in a film.

Suitable for storing grape cuttings:

• fridge;
• basement;
• country house.

It is easiest to store grape cuttings on the refrigerator shelf, as the correct temperature is always ensured, but this is applicable only with a small amount of them. The basement is kept by those who plant chibouks for sale in a short time.

The conservation of cuttings in the summer cottage is carried out by simply burying them in the ground to a depth of 50-70 cm, where they are stored until spring. The disadvantage of this method is the need to periodically inspect them.

At high temperatures, the seedlings begin to swell. In this case, they are placed in the refrigerator so that the temperature drops, and then they are buried again, but not so deep.

Training

Before planting in open ground, grape cuttings are inspected to find out if they are suitable or not. Chubuki, which are poorly preserved, have a painful appearance and are covered with mold, are not used.

Preparing grape cuttings for cultivation also involves selecting strong seedlings. To determine the suitability of the cutting for planting, a small transverse incision is made.

If the cut is dry and no droplets appear from it, the chubuk is thrown away. Such a seedling will not develop and will not produce buds and fruits. In good cuttings, juice protrudes from the incision.

Also, the suitability of seedlings is determined by the color of the incision. If nothing happened to the cutting during the storage period, the wound will have a bright green color. If there are inclusions of different shades in the incision, the chibouk is determined as unsuitable.

The next step is the awakening of the seedlings. To do this, take a small container, fill it with slightly warm water and immerse the cuttings there after wintering. Chubuki are soaked for 48 hours. Then they are taken out of the water and placed for several hours in a solution of a growth stimulator, which affects the ability of the seedling to develop roots. Next, the seedlings are planted in separate plastic jars, cups or pots with suitable soil.

Germination of cuttings in a bottle

To prepare seedlings for outdoor cultivation, chibouks are planted in plastic containers. Then they transplant into the ground. Harvesting of chibouks in a bottle for germination is carried out according to the scheme:

• take a plastic bottle with a volume of 1-1.5 liters and cut off its neck;
• make 4-5 holes at the bottom of the container;
• a layer of drainage is placed on the bottom of the bottle;
• pour the soil mixture and sawdust for growing on top to a height of 2/3 of the container;
• the stalk is planted in the ground at an angle so that the top of the seedling is at the level of the top of the container;
• a layer of soaked sawdust is poured on top;
• a grape stalk is covered with a plastic cup or a smaller bottle.

It is better to put the container with the seedling on the windowsill so that the eyes of the cutting look into the room, otherwise they dry out. Planted 1 cutting in a bottle.

When the seedling has grown to a sufficient height, and the branches have started the first shoots, the top cover is removed. Watering is carried out from below, using a pallet. A little water is poured into it and a container with a chubuk is placed for 20 minutes, so that it is saturated with the necessary amount of moisture.

Grapes in a bottle require regular inspection. If the seedlings are moldy or covered with pus, they are removed.

Germination in glasses

Planting chibouks in glasses at home for germination is carried out according to this principle:

• take plastic glasses 0.3-0.5 l and make several holes in the bottom;
• prepare a soil mixture of earth, fertilizers, sawdust and sand.
• the bottom of the container is filled with a mixture of soil and hardwood to a height of 2-3 cm;
• put a 0.25 l plastic cup on top without holes in the bottom;
• the gap between the walls of a small and large container is filled with soil;
• clean river sand is added to a small glass and watered;
• a cutting is planted in the center of the sand, making a small depression under it;
• cover the stalk with a plastic bottle without a bottom so that only the walls remain, and water it.

Grape cuttings in a glass require daily moisture. To do this, use filtered warm water. When it becomes clear through the walls of the container that roots have appeared, and 3-4 new leaves form on the surface, the bottle is removed.

The finished plant is transplanted. To transplant, use an earthen mixture. Regardless of the germination method, planting is carried out in late February-early May in the same way as growing in the fall. In summer, you can also germinate in a jar, but it is forbidden to leave it in the sun.

Reproduction by green cuttings

To grow grapes from green cuttings, you need to prepare them. To do this, cut branches at the beginning of flowering or 2 weeks before it starts. Chubuks are chosen from broken branches and stepchildren. Cut segments are placed in a container in warm water immediately after separation from the main plant. The branches are divided so that each cutting has 2 buds.

At the bottom, the cut is made at a right angle near the bottom corner. Upper - 2-3 cm higher from the hemp. All leaves and buds are removed from the stems. Seedlings are grown in jars or small pots in greenhouses with shading, which is removed at the beginning of active growth in order to get more buds from the vine. Soaking is not required.

A cellar is used to store seedlings in winter. In the absence of mature buds, green cuttings are best placed in the refrigerator at home. In early March, seedlings are planted in a container with soil mixture for additional growth.

Planting and growing grapes with green cuttings is carried out similarly to the classical method in late February or early May. Green cuttings are planted in open ground in autumn, until January.

Cutting Care

In order for grapes to grow successfully, and future bushes to give a good harvest, they need to be looked after.

In such regions of Russia. like the Moscow region, sometimes there is a drought. The cuttings are waxed to germinate better. Also, before the first shoots, they are regularly spudded, and the topsoil is loosened.

soil prevention. This includes top dressing and fertilizers with mineral and organic substances.

Soil cultivation. Loosening of grapes is carried out 3 times a season. Handle carefully so as not to damage the measles system.

Shelter of grapes. Planting grape cuttings requires mulching with hay.

Removing extra segments. If several shoots appear from the grape cutting, it is better to leave 1.

Deepening the seedling and its processing. In the middle of summer, the stalk is dug up and planted 20 cm deeper. It is also better to cut off the extra parts and treat with the Kornevin growth stimulator. This enhances rooting.

Trim off excess branches. This is especially true for wild grapes. Leave only strong and strong vines. To cut, use a pruner.

Installing wallpaper. This allows you to stimulate the acceleration of growth and rooting of the plant, and also gives it support for branching.

Conclusion

To grow grapes from cuttings, regular crop care is carried out. An adult plant also requires the application of mineral and organic fertilizers and timely watering, which is increased in the first month of summer. Another stage of care is trimming extra segments.

It is better to harvest a large number of seedlings for the winter, so that there is a choice of the strongest, which will sprout in a short time. The trunk circle is important to keep clean.