home

The deadline for planting trees is in the fall. Features of planting fruit trees in the fall

Having learned about the benefits of planting seedlings in the autumn, I am sure that the purchased tree will take root, and money and labor will not be wasted.

Of course, you can plant young trees not only in the fall. Planting time depends on the weather, the condition and age of the seedling, the climate in a particular region. Each season has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Rooting a seedling in the soil - natural process occurring in any season except winter frosts when the ground freezes. Concomitant factors influence the survival and well-being of the plant.

Autumn is a traditional time for updating the garden, replenishing the composition fruit trees. During this period, nurseries export young trees for sale at a nice price. Once at a specialized fair, a gardener can acquire a healthy planting material, get expert advice, see the fruits (after all, just at this time they ripen), get acquainted with varietal characteristics. The roots of seedlings purchased in the fall are fresh and healthy.
The work will not be difficult. For a tree, you only need to prepare a hole, and autumn moisture will provide watering, cool, sunny weather will be very comfortable. Despite the slowdown in metabolism in anticipation of a dormant period, the roots of a young plant continue to develop until the soil cools down to +4 degrees. From the moment of planting until this time, the seedling has time to grow additional roots to absorb moisture and nutrients. This will give the tree a significant advantage over those planted in the spring - the autumn seedling will continue to actively develop two to three weeks earlier than the spring counterparts.
In the spring there is a lot of work on the site. By planting trees in the fall, the gardener will free up valuable spring days for other tasks.

The further south the region is located, the greater the advantage of planting seedlings in the autumn: the ground will not freeze early and deep, the trees are not threatened with death or freezing.

Possible cons

With early deep freezing soil, the seedling may die.
Strong winds and freezing of ice on the branches and trunk can harm a fragile tree.
Trunks of young trees often become food for hares and rodents.
If the seedling remains to winter in an uninhabited dacha, there is a risk that it will be stolen.

cherries;
peach
plums;
almonds;
pears;
apple trees.

If someone decides to adapt a plant from a warmer region on their site, then autumn planting also not recommended.

What plants will tolerate autumn planting well

An ideal autumn planting would be for frost-resistant varieties of fruit trees.

Tree planting dates in autumn

October is the best month for planting seedlings. If the gardener came across good planting material, then you can plant it at the end of September and early November, if there is no frost.

Deadlines by region:

middle lane - the second half of September-first half of October;
northern regions - all of September;
southern regions - October and the first half of November.

It is important for choosing the time of planting - the procedure is performed when the dormant period has come for the plant, all the leaves have turned yellow and fallen off. In plants dug up before the beginning of leaf fall, the shoots are immature. Such trees are usually prone to freezing.

Planting a young tree covered with foliage may result in overdrying of the seedling: a strong loss of moisture occurs through the leaves.

When the deadline has passed

If the desired seedling is caught at the end of the desired time for planting, there is a prolonged slush or frosts have begun, the tree can be stored until spring.

How to store seedlings:

a room in the basement;
instillation;
snow storage.

If there is a cellar where the temperature is stable within 0-10 degrees, then the seedling can be placed in a bucket with moistened sawdust or peat, and stored in the basement. From time to time sawdust should be moistened (once every 7-10 days).

If there is no basement, and the weather promises heavy snowfalls, the plant is packed and stored in a snowdrift.

Preparing for landing

For seedlings, planting pits of this size are prepared:

pear and apple tree - 1.2 x 0.8 m;
cherry and plum - 1.0 x 0.6 m.

The prevention of waterlogging will be expanded clay placed at the bottom of the pit.

The soil mixture consists of:

3 parts of rotted manure;
2 parts of fertile land;
1 part of plain garden soil.

When preparing the mixture, use bird droppings not recommended, other fertilizers must be applied with care so as not to burn the roots. If any seedling is planted in such a mixture, in the first year you can do without top dressing.

Landing sequence:

The bottom of the landing pit is covered with an even layer of expanded clay.
Fall asleep a third of the prepared soil mixture, level and water.
Pour another portion of the mixture into a mound and spread the roots over it.
A mandatory step is to check the level of the root neck: it must be exactly flush with the ground surface. The deepening of the neck leads to a lack of fruiting. The towering neck is the cause of future exposure and drying of the roots.
Filling and leveling the remaining land.
Watering and decoration of the near-stem circle, mulching.

An important difference between autumn planting is that the roots of the seedling are not shortened, as is customary in spring. You can cut off only dried or broken edges. Good survival is facilitated by maintaining the orientation of the seedling relative to the cardinal points.

Trees and shrubs with a closed root system can be planted with early spring until late autumn. The exception is the period of leaf fall. However, it is better to choose a moment for this, which is also suitable for seedlings with an open root system. Moreover, for many fruit trees and shrubs, the preferred planting time is still autumn.

Gooseberry

The gooseberry is photophilous, it needs to be planted in open sunny places, protected from strong winds. It responds well to soil fertility. It does not tolerate waterlogging at all (the root neck rots), it is much better put up with temporary drought. He does not like close groundwater either - it is desirable that their level be no closer than 1.5 m from the surface of the earth; if groundwater is above 0.8 m, then the bush should be planted on a soil bedding-pillow 0.3–0.5 m high and 0.8–1.0 m wide.

If there is not enough free space on the site, then gooseberries can be placed between young fruit trees, but the distance from trees to bushes should be at least 2 m. less than 1.5 m.

Gooseberries prefer light, medium loamy soils. If the soil in the area is sandy or heavy clay, clay or sand must be added, respectively. Dislikes acidic soils. If the acidity index (pH) is higher than 5.5, then lime is added for planting - at least 200 g per 1 sq. m. In order for the gooseberry to grow and develop well, the ground at the landing site must be thoroughly weeded. It is not advisable to plant a shrub in a place where currants or raspberries used to grow before - the soil will be severely depleted, and the diseases and pests common to these crops will definitely attack the "new one".

The optimal time for planting gooseberries with an open root system is mid-September - early October. It is better to buy seedlings in advance - a week or two in advance. This should be done in specialized nurseries and companies with a proven track record. root system seedlings should have 3–5 lignified skeletal roots at least 10 cm long and developed fibrous roots. The aerial part of one-year-old seedlings is enough for one shoot - but two-year-old seedlings should have 2-3 shoots about 30 cm long.

Gooseberries are planted in pre-prepared round pits with a diameter of 0.5 m and a depth of 0.5 m. When digging a hole, the fertile (upper) layer is discarded on one side, the underlying layer on the other. Then, a bucket of manure (can be fresh) or compost, 200–250 g of complex mineral fertilizer or 150–200 g of superphosphate, 40–60 g of potassium sulfate are added to 2/3 of the mass of the fertile layer. Everything is thoroughly mixed and filled with this mixture about half of the pit. The remaining 1/3 of the fertile layer is poured on top with a mound. After the mixture in the pit settles (after 1-2 weeks), they start planting. The seedling is placed on a mound, the roots are straightened, covered with the remaining earth so that the root collar is 5–7 cm deep. Then they trample the ground around the bush, shed well and mulch with humus. Shorten the shoots, leaving 5-7 cm above the ground, so that the plant branches better.

Honeysuckle

For edible honeysuckle choose an open and sunny place, but protected from the wind.

It is convenient to plant bushes along the edge of the site with a distance between plants from 0.5 (dense hedge) to 1.5 m. The soil should be moisture-intensive, but without stagnant water. Soil type - almost any.

Planting honeysuckle is best in autumn. Plants planted in spring take root worse, and besides, this should be done early - in April, before flowering.

Most cultivars are self-fertile, and you will need at least two different cultivars blooming at the same time to ensure cross-pollination, preferably three to five. Planting material (2–3-year-old seedlings) should look like this: the aerial part consists of 4–5 skeletal shoots 25–35 cm long and at least 5 mm thick at the base, roots no shorter than 25 cm, with 4–5 branches.

Landing pits (40x50x40 cm) are prepared immediately before planting. Organic fertilizers are applied to them (up to two buckets, depending on the type of soil), as well as superphosphate (up to 200 g) and potassium salt (35–40 g).

Black currant

Black currant gives a higher yield large berries if you plant several different varieties- for mutual cross-pollination. Almost all modern varieties are self-pollinating, but with cross-pollination, the number of ovaries increases and the size of the berries increases even in small-fruited black currants.

Currant seedlings with an open root system can be planted both in spring and autumn, but it is better to do it all the same in autumn (for the middle lane - in the first half of October). During the winter, the soil around the bushes will settle and compact, in the spring the plants will start to grow early and take root well. When using seedlings in containers, there are practically no restrictions on planting dates.

Usually, currant bushes are planted at a distance of 1–1.25 m. To get a crop for the 2nd–3rd year, plants in a row can be planted somewhat thicker, at a distance of 0.7–0.8 m. But the yield from the bush will be less and life expectancy will be slightly reduced.

Blackcurrant is moisture-loving and relatively shade-tolerant, but does not tolerate strong shading. Therefore, it is better for her to allocate lowered, moistened, sufficiently lit and protected from the wind places (but not swampy lowlands with protruding groundwater!). The best of all are fertile light loams. On heavy acidic soils black currant grows poorly.

At the chosen place, it is necessary to level the soil so that there are no deep depressions and holes. Then it is good to dig it on a shovel bayonet, carefully removing the rhizomes of perennial weeds. A planting hole 35–40 cm deep and 50–60 cm in diameter is covered approximately 3/4 of the depth with fertile soil mixed with fertilizers - a bucket of compost, superphosphate (150–200 g), potassium sulfate (40–60 g) or woody ash (30–40 g).

The root system of the seedling must be lignified, have 3–5 skeletal roots at least 15–20 cm long. The aerial part - at least one or two branches 30–40 cm long. Damaged or dried roots are shortened, the seedling is buried 6–8 cm higher root collar. The deepening of the root neck contributes to the formation of basal buds for the future multi-stemmed bush.

Before filling the hole, half a bucket of water is poured into it, another half a bucket into the annular hole around the landing site. And immediately mulch the surface with peat. The ground under the currant is loosened: near the root neck to a depth of 6–8 cm, at a distance from it - 10–12 cm. When mulching, moisture is better preserved, and loosening can be much less common.

In autumn, the heavy soil under the bushes is dug up shallowly and left lumpy for the winter to retain moisture. If the soil is light and loose enough, you can limit yourself to shallow loosening (up to 5–8 cm) near the bushes, and dig the row spacing by 10–12 cm.

Of all the berry bushes, blackcurrant is the most moisture-loving, because its root system is located in the upper soil layer, at a depth of 20–30 cm. It is especially important that it receives the right amount of moisture during intensive growth and ovary formation (early June), during pouring berries (the third decade of June - the first decade of July) and after harvesting (August - September). Podzimny watering is also important, especially in dry autumn. Approximate water consumption - 20-30 liters per bush.

Red currant

Red currant loves sunny places, protected from cold winds, fertile and loose soil.

Seedlings are best planted early autumn at the very beginning of September. It is dangerous to miss the deadline: the seedlings will not have time to take root and prepare for winter.

The planting scheme depends on the characteristics of the variety, dictating what adult plants will become. For compact, straight-growing bushes, 1–1.25 x 1.25 m is enough; spreading, lush will need a distance of at least 1.5 m. Most modern varieties are highly self-fertile.

To plant red currants, you need to dig a hole 40 cm deep and 50–60 cm wide in advance, 2–3 weeks in advance (so that the soil with which we fill it has time to settle). Thoroughly mix the earth with organic and mineral fertilizers: 8–10 kg of compost (humus, peat), 150–200 g of superphosphate, 30–40 g of potassium sulfate or wood ash. The plant can be planted straight or obliquely - for better education extra roots.

After planting, water abundantly and mulch with humus or peat. Then the branches must be severely cut, leaving 10-15 cm with 3-4 buds.

Red currants will benefit from top dressing: organic matter, nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. But she does not tolerate chlorine, and complex fertilizers should be selected with this feature in mind.

Plentiful but not too much frequent watering necessary during the growth of shoots, flowering, fruiting and in the fall, after picking berries.

Currant bushes are winter-hardy. Under the snow, they are not afraid of frost down to -45 ° C. Much more dangerous spring frosts that damage flowers and ovaries. In such cases, it is recommended to cover the bushes with non-woven material.

Apple tree

When is the best time to plant apple trees - in autumn or spring? Each of these options has its own advantages.

In practice, preference is given, after all, to autumn. In this case, the root system of seedlings for the autumn-spring period has time to recover after planting, so that with the beginning of the growing season, to begin at least to some extent provide the ground organs of the seedling with the necessary nutrients.

Spring planting of apple seedlings is best done in early spring when the ground has not completely thawed yet. The tree planted at this time will need constant regular watering. Lack of moisture can lead to noticeable drying of the weakened root system and disproportionate development of the underground and aboveground parts of the plant.

Whatever landing time you stop at, the landing pits must be prepared in advance. Remember that the planting pit is not a hole for the roots or an earthen clod of a seedling, but a receptacle fertile soil, nutrient medium for the plant for the next 5-7 years. Each cubic centimeter of it must contain substances that allow the seedling to quickly develop and grow stronger.

Therefore, even for plants with a height of 30-50 cm, you need to prepare a large pit. The only exceptions are columnar apple trees, pits of 50x50x50 cm are suitable for them. A hole for an apple tree is dug at least 60-80 cm in diameter and 70-80 cm deep.

The dug hole is filled with fertile soil, consisting of the top layer of the original soil, peat, compost, rotted manure, humus and - on heavy clay soils - sand (1: 1 ratio). On the landing pit 6-8 handfuls of complex mineral fertilizer (Kemira, azofoska) are added. It is better to prepare the soil in the pit in layers (filling up all the components with a layer of 15-20 cm, adding 1.5-2 handfuls of fertilizer to each), thoroughly mixing with a shovel and compacting each layer. The pit should be filled "with a hill" so that the earth rises 15-20 cm above its edges. If this is not done, then as the soil compacts and shrinks, the seedling will end up in a funnel in 2-3 years - and will become less winter-hardy, will bear less fruit.

And only after the pit is completely filled with fertile soil, a hole is made in it to the size of the roots of a seedling or earthen clod. When planting a plant with an open root system, a mound can be formed at the bottom of the hole, on which the roots of the apple tree straighten. Place the seedling in the hole and fill it with water. Cover the roots with earth removed from the hole until the water is absorbed. After 5-10 minutes, compact the soil around the planted apple tree. Tie the seedling with a "figure of eight" to three stakes stuck as deep as possible (about 70-80 cm). If there are two or one stakes, the tree may gradually tilt and even after a few years fall during a hurricane.

With any stock, one-three-year-old seedlings take root best. When buying seedlings with an open root system, check the viability of the roots: scrape them with your fingernail - live roots under the bark and on the cut should be white.

domestic plum

Most often, we grow varieties of homemade plums. These are tall 3-5-meter trees. However, the height of a tree, as a feature of a variety for a gardener who knows pruning, does not crucial. It can easily form a low tree with a well lit and ventilated crown.

The first fruits on the branches begin to appear on the 3-4th year after planting. The next 8-10 years for a plum tree are the most fruitful. If you are attracted by some very tasty, but not too winter-hardy variety, graft it onto a winter-hardy stock or buy seedlings on stamens.

In addition to domestic plum, we also grow some varieties of Chinese plum (it is distinguished by medium dimensions and frost resistance) and cherry plum. There are also varieties of blackthorn, Ussuri plum, Canadian plum and many others.

The root system of plum trees can penetrate deep enough, but in our climate the bulk of the roots are superficial, located under the crown or slightly beyond it. It is not difficult to care for a plum - it is enough to regularly loosen the near-stem circle of a tree and form a crown. This culture loves watering, but does not tolerate stagnant moisture.

Self-fertility of plums is an optional quality. Partially self-fertile and self-fertile - varieties that can set fruit only when adjacent to a pollinating variety. It can be any other plum variety, but an indispensable condition is simultaneous flowering.

If there is no room for several plum trees, you can graft several different varieties on a winter-hardy variety that can pollinate each other - and the problem will be solved. It is also important to note that for good pollination of home plum varieties, only home plum is suitable, and cherry plum and Chinese plum varieties can pollinate each other.

Harvested in the second half of summer. Early varieties - in late July - early August, medium in mid-August, late - in late August - early September. Unfortunately, sometimes plums late varieties do not ripen in our climate because of the cold rainy summer. The average yield of plums at good care- 10–20 kg per tree, and in some abundant varieties up to 40 kg.

Pear

Pear seedlings are planted in spring or mid-autumn.

Water only young trees and only in very severe drought. The pear has a powerful deep root system, and it is able to extract water itself.

The pear is subject to the same diseases as the apple tree: scab, moniliosis, cytosporosis.

She is also "loved" by the codling moth, apple flower beetle, sucker.

To improve the quality of fruit trees, grafting can be done. Pear trees do best on seedlings. winter-hardy varieties and wild pear. Common and chokeberry, hawthorn, apple tree and even poplar are not bad. Scientists are working on breeding dwarf pear rootstocks.

Shaping and pruning are also very important for a good harvest. The meaning of pruning is that in the summer each leaf "bathed in the rays of the sun", especially in the morning, when all the processes in the leaves are very active. The pear is one of the most light-loving crops, and flower buds do not form in it in the shade. That is why a pear cannot be planted near the wall of the house - there it simply will not bear fruit.

Many gardeners remove lower branches from fruit-bearing trees - supposedly there are no pears on them. It's not worth doing. There are no fruits at the bottom of the crown, because the tree was cut incorrectly and now these very lower branches are dimly lit. In principle, you need to remove all branches growing inside the crown. But if the branch is well lit and does not interfere with others, it is quite possible to leave it.

Growing a beautiful garden is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It is enough to choose the right seedlings and correctly place them on the site. Planting fruit trees and shrubs is carried out not only in spring, but also in autumn. Seedlings need not only be properly planted in open ground, but also to choose for them the most appropriate place with good soil, sufficient lighting and protection from drafts.

This article describes in detail the features of planting fruit trees and shrubs, the rules for choosing and preparing a site, and photos and videos will help to carry out this procedure correctly.

Planting fruit trees

A well-groomed orchard is not only a wonderful decoration for your summer cottage, but also a rich source of vitamins.

It will take a lot of effort and time to grow it like this. And our article will also equip you with the necessary baggage of knowledge and rules that will help in the cultivation orchard.

rules

Sometimes it happens that the seedlings were of high quality, and the pits were prepared on time and appropriately, and the garden still does not start growing. Most often this comes from ignorance by novice gardeners of the rules for placing seedlings. It is their strict observance that ensures that all your efforts and costs invested in the future garden will not be in vain.

Landing fruit and berry trees and bushes are held so(picture 1):

The soil is prepared in advance, for example, for spring planting - in the fall, and provides for loosening the soil and fertilizing.
Immediately before being transferred to the ground, the seedlings must be put in water for several hours so that the root system has the opportunity to make some moisture.
Damaged or too long roots should be trimmed smoothly.
The roots of the seedling should be freely placed in the hole.
It's not enough just to dig a hole right size: it is also necessary to loosen its bottom and lay a layer of compost seasoned with fertilizer on it.
It is necessary to drive a support stake into the dug hole from the leeward side.
The soil that remains from digging the hole is mixed with compost, mineral and organic fertilizers, sand. This substrate is used to fill the hole after planting the tree.
Seedlings are placed in the hole strictly vertically. If a tree is grafted, then the grafting site should be located above ground level at a height of 10 cm.
During planting, the pit is filled with prepared soil evenly, compacting it and conducting intermediate watering.

Figure 1. Rules for planting seedlings

After planting the tree, it is necessary to form a watering circle. To do this, around the entire circumference of the hole, a mound is made in the form of a roller 5-7 cm high, and the trunk circle itself is mulched with organic matter (rotted manure, straw, raw compost). The planted tree must be watered abundantly and tied to a peg.

Peculiarities

If you are going to lay a garden, you should start with tilling the soil in the selected area: carry out deep loosening of the soil and remove weeds, because in loose earth seedlings quickly grow and begin to bear fruit much earlier. Then you need to decide on the size of the holes.

Note: For annual plants dig holes with a depth and width of 50-60 cm, for two-year-olds you will need a hole 110-120 cm wide and 60-70 cm deep. If the soil is heavy, then 15-20 cm are added to all sizes.

If the soil has elevated level acidity, it must be limed. For fertilizer, organic and ash top dressings are used. It is not recommended to use fresh or half-rotted manure, because with a lack of air in the soil, it decomposes and releases harmful substances that poison the entire plant.

Where to plant fruit trees

When choosing a place for fruit crops, they pay attention to the relief, the nature of the soil, the depth of groundwater, and the possibility of protection from the wind. On my own suburban area give preference to a place with good illumination, which is not flooded by groundwater. So, the maximum standing height groundwater for apple and pear trees is 1.5 m, for cherries and plums - 1 m. If the groundwater is high, drainage will have to be done (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Placement of fruit trees and shrubs on the site

It is known that gardens grow best on gentle slopes, but flat laying is not so effective. It is not recommended to plant a garden in hollows due to stagnation of cold air and excess water in them.

Which side of the world to plant fruit trees

An important role is played not only by the fact when to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring or autumn, but also the side of the world where the garden will be located.

Experienced gardeners advise planting fruit trees on the south, southeast and southwest side of the site.

Fit Types

The correct arrangement of plants in the garden, that is, the type of planting, most directly affects the survival rate of seedlings. Therefore, it is so important to imagine it in all details before starting the laying of the garden. It is also necessary to calculate the distances between seedlings. The interval between them should not be less than the height of mature trees. It is in such conditions that plants will more efficiently pollinate and bear fruit. It is also known that more fruits are produced on the side branches, so the crowns of fruit trees should be shaped so that they grow in width (Figure 3).

Figure 3. The main types of planting fruit trees: 1 - in groups, 2 - central placement in bouquets, 3 - chess, 4 - row planting, 5 - row planting of different species, 6 - central planting of shrubs

However, you should be aware that in a too sparse arrangement, fruit trees are more prone to sunburn and frost damage, so they grow much worse. In this case, the so-called "seals" are planted between tall fruit trees, that is, undersized fruit crops such as cherries or plums. They are not as durable as apple and pear trees, and therefore stop fruiting after 20 years of life and can be removed, since the crowns of tall trees will have had time to fully form and grow by that time.

When to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring

Timely planting of seedlings of fruit trees in the spring has importance not only for their survival, but also for the subsequent growth and development of plants. The question arises when it is better to plant fruit trees and shrubs in the spring.

Since changes in nature occur very quickly, the air temperature rises, the soil dries quickly, so early spring is considered the best time for the procedure, although in the southern regions it can also be done in autumn. However, a culture such as cherries often freezes during autumn planting, so it should be planted only in spring. At the same time, the sooner a tree is planted, the better and faster it will take root.

How to choose a place to land

When choosing a place to place fruit crops, you should pay attention to several factors: the depth of groundwater, illumination and the presence of drafts. So, groundwater must lie at a depth of at least 1 m. Otherwise, trees will have to be placed on mounds 60-120 cm high.

It is known that fruit trees need a lot of sunlight and heat, so it would be wise to choose a site that is well lit by the sun, preferably on the south side of the site. In addition, it should be noted that young trees are afraid of drafts, so you should try to place a young garden under the protection of buildings. Experienced gardeners recommend not planting seedlings in the same place where fruit trees used to grow. The wasteland area left after uprooting the garden must be sown with meadow or legume grasses for several years or completely change the soil in the pits.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees in spring time

Spring planting should be carried out as early as possible, the determination of which depends specifically on the seedling and weather conditions.

In any case, the work should be completed before the buds bloom on the trees (seedlings). The survival and development of culture in the future depends on this.

Planting fruit trees in spring: video

When to plant seedlings of fruit trees in the spring and how to do it correctly, you can see in the video clip. Its author will give valuable practical advice for planting, which are sure to be useful to beginners and experienced gardeners.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees in autumn

Although spring planting is most commonly practiced, autumn planting also has its advantages (Figure 4). For example, in autumn it is much more profitable to purchase seedlings, since it is possible to see the fruits that a certain variety produces. In addition, seedlings planted in the fall do not require much trouble; watering in dry weather will be enough. Their roots will continue to grow until the onset of stable frosts, which means that such a tree will grow earlier in the spring.

Figure 4. Rules for planting fruit crops in autumn

Most often, autumn procedures are practiced in the southern regions, where young plants are not threatened with hypothermia due to mild winters. However, one should be aware of the vagaries of nature and understand the risk to the growth of autumn plantings. Severe frosts and wind, ice and snowfalls can not only lead to damage to seedlings, but also completely destroy them. Therefore, experts advise against planting fruit crops such as pear, apple, plum, apricot, peach, cherry, almond and cherry in the fall.

Timing

The optimal time for autumn planting is called the end of September - the month of October, and in the southern regions - from October to mid-November. However, you should be aware that these dates are rather arbitrary, since they depend on weather conditions.

Therefore, it is still better to focus on the condition of the seedlings. best time for planting is a period of rest, which occurs after the end of leaf fall.

Gardens are laid in areas with different topography, groundwater levels and illumination. However, there are certain rules that must be followed when planting a garden, regardless of its location.

It must be remembered that improperly planted trees take root and grow poorly, which can lead to their death.