Edible honeysuckle: varieties, planting in spring and autumn in open ground, cultivation, reproduction, pruning and care, pests and diseases, processing and treatment. Edible honeysuckle: growing secrets and experienced tips
Recently in gardens and on summer cottages more and more often you can find planting honeysuckle. This plant belongs to the genus of creeping, erect or climbing shrubs of the Honeysuckle family.
In total, there are more than 200 types of honeysuckle in wildlife. Most types of plants boast frost resistance and unpretentiousness when grown. Berries of some species can be safely eaten. In wildlife, honeysuckle can be found in mixed, deciduous and coniferous forests. temperate climate. The plant easily adapts to various conditions environment. In gardening, you can most often observe Tatar honeysuckle or rosin, although today summer residents are trying to plant other plant varieties.
Honeysuckle is one of the few fruit shrubs that perfectly endures both the vagaries of the northern weather and the harsh Siberian winters. The main thing is to follow all the rules for caring for the plant, especially in the fall.
Caring for honeysuckle in the fall differs little from preparing other fruit shrubs for the onset of frost. The main components of plant care are transplanting, pruning, cleaning the territory, feeding and shelter for the winter.
Autumn honeysuckle care: highlights and features
Transfer
Many gardeners transplant shrubs in the spring, but it is best to postpone this procedure until the fall. The fact is that honeysuckle belongs to shrubs with an early growing season. Already from the end of July, the plant begins a dormant period, which continues until the beginning of spring. According to the observations of gardeners, for the entire indicated period, honeysuckle does not bloom dormant buds. Thus, honeysuckle bushes can be transplanted from August until October itself.
It is important! Transplanting a bush should be done very carefully, because root system honeysuckle can be easily damaged. You should prepare a new place for transplanting in advance, dig a hole several times larger than the original one. Honeysuckle should not be moved to a new place, but dragged along the ground. In order not to damage the plant, it should be immersed on burlap and carefully moved to new site. It is necessary to leave a clod of earth on the roots. Humus must first be added to the pit. It is required to deepen the bush by about five to six centimeters. This completes the transfer.
pruning
Honeysuckle has excellent bushiness. Shoots in large numbers are formed on old branches. In addition, young shoots are being formed in the root region. To restrain the process of disorderly branching of the shrub, you should regularly cut the branches.
You need to know! Branches should be pruned no earlier than 6 years of plant life. If everything is done correctly, then the next processing of the branches will be required no earlier than in 2-3 years.
How to cut? First, only old and dry branches should be removed. Secondly, when carrying out the procedure for rejuvenating a plant, one should not get too carried away with the process. After you finish pruning, at least five healthy trunks should remain on the bush. Experienced gardeners does not recommend pruning young branches, as they form the largest number kidneys.
top dressing
Fertilizing the soil is very important for honeysuckle. With this, the gardener will help the shrub to survive the winter well, and then bloom magnificently and give good harvest berries.
It will be wonderful if the summer resident manages to feed the honeysuckle with organic matter. To make rotted compost or humus should be no more than once every three years. This will be enough to feed the shrub. Do not get carried away with nitrogen-containing dressings, they can cause intensive growth of honeysuckle. As a result, the buds will begin to open just in time for the onset of frost, and the plant will die. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are perfect. For an adult 3-4 year old bush, it will be enough to add no more than twenty grams of potassium salts and at least thirty grams of superphosphate. The proportions shown are for one square meter garden plantings.
Garden area cleaning
The main task of the gardener is to completely clear the near-stem circles of honeysuckle from last year's foliage. Despite the fact that the plant is rarely attacked by pests and fungal diseases, it is the foliage that can cause such troubles.
Honeysuckle shelter for the winter
Before you cover the bushes for the winter, you should understand which category of plants your honeysuckle variety belongs to. The winter-hardy plant perfectly tolerates even the most severe frosts and does not require any shelter. In such shrubs, flower buds can perfectly tolerate even forty-degree frosts, and growth buds - fifty-degree!
However, many decorative varieties cannot boast such exceptional frost resistance. This is especially true for climbing vines. They do not have such exceptional endurance, so they should be covered for the winter. First of all, the supports supporting the plant should be removed. Then the creepers will be on the ground. Then honeysuckle should be carefully sprinkled on top with spruce branches or dry sawdust. The fallen snow will also protect the plant from severe frosts and prevent the vine from dying.
Unfortunately, plants need to be protected not only from severe frosts, but also from pests. For example, bullfinches are very fond of feasting on the fruit buds of a plant, and small rodents are very fond of honeysuckle bark. It often happens that the gardener discovers the sad consequences only in the spring, when the plant has already suffered to a large extent from pests. To prevent this from happening, honeysuckle should be protected from rodents and birds by throwing a net over the plantings.
Honeysuckle is wonderful perennial, which, with proper care, both in spring and summer, and especially in autumn, will delight the gardener with exquisite flowering and juicy fruits.
Many amateur gardeners grow honeysuckle on their plots. This ornamental shrub has more than 180 varieties, while there are shrubs with edible fruits, and there are poisonous ones. Despite the fact that the plant is considered frost-resistant, honeysuckle care cannot be ignored, preparation for winter must be thorough in order to prevent the death of the shrub.
At the end of summer, it's time for gardeners to start autumn work. Preparing for winter includes a number of mandatory work that needs to be done in the fall:
- Pruning shrub branches.
- Cleaning dry branches, debris and weeds. Although some believe that leaves and shoots do not need to be removed, but if you do not want pests and rodents to hide there, it is better to clean.
- Shrub nutrition.
- Honeysuckle cover.
How is the autumn pruning of honeysuckle
Consider the rules for pruning honeysuckle using the example of a climbing honeysuckle shrub honeysuckle. It bushes well, young shoots regularly grow from basal buds, and shoots form on old shoots. Pruning is necessary so that the bush acquires a noble appearance, and the branches do not grow in different directions, as they please.
Novice gardeners who have not grown honeysuckle before need to know that only shrubs that have reached the age of five can be cut. After proper pruning, the next time this operation will need to be carried out only after a couple of years.
First, cut off the upper skeletal branches. With a sharp pruner, a cut is made not at the base, but in the middle of the branch. Then remove small branches, which are the cause of thickening of the crown. Weakened, diseased branches, as well as shoots growing inside the bush, are also cut off. It is not necessary to remove young shoots, as buds form on them.
If the bushes are older than ten years, they need to be cut to the very stump, cutting off the branches at a height of about 40 centimeters. If global pruning is carried out, after it, at least five shoots should remain on the bush.
Some varieties of honeysuckle, such as Cinderella or Azure, have bushes that are too falling apart, as the skeletal branches of the plant creep along the ground. Such branches are removed during pruning. So you can get a more elevated shape of the bush.
Timing for pruning
When is the best time to prune? The timing may vary depending on the region of growth, that is, the pruning time in the Moscow region will differ from the pruning time for bushes in the Krasnodar Territory.
If autumn is warm, pruning can be done in October. If the leaves fell off early, the weather worsened, you can cut off unnecessary, damaged and old branches in September.
Autumn top dressing of honeysuckle
After all unnecessary shoots have been removed, garden pitch is required. They process slices.
The use of fertilizers after the pruning procedure is justified by the fact that they are able to increase the yield, protect the honeysuckle from infection and prepare crops for winter.
The most common feeding organic fertilizers, use rotted compost or humus. Many people ask if it is possible to make mineral fertilizers? In no case should nitrogen-containing fertilizers be applied. Otherwise, you can provoke a sharp growth of leaves, which will destroy the plant in frost.
It is allowed to fertilize honeysuckle with phosphorus or potash supplements, but only at the rate of not more than 25 g / sq. meter.
How to prepare honeysuckle for winter
How much a plant needs shelter depends on the variety of honeysuckle. The fact is that some frost-resistant varieties winter well without shelter at all. But decorative and climbing varieties will not be able to survive the harsh winter if the gardener does not take care of them.
Particular attention should be paid to climbing varieties of honeysuckle. It is necessary to remove the supports on which the branches were attached, then all the branches are carefully bent down to lay them closer to the ground. From above they are sprinkled with sawdust, covered with spruce paws. In the Volga region and beyond the Urals, you can additionally cover the shoots with rolled covering material. The fallen snow will reliably protect from winds and frosts.
In Siberia, honeysuckle is tied up in a bundle for the winter so that they do not break under the weight of the snow cover.
It is also necessary to think about protecting shrubs from pests. Hares, and mice, love to eat bark. And bullfinches often peck fruit buds on frosty days. The net thrown over the bushes will be a good obstacle for the birds. Poisonous bait placed around the bushes will scare away the mice.
Autumn vaccination of honeysuckle
Approximately in October, when the leaves have already fallen, you can make an autumn vaccination. It is necessary to have time to carry out the procedure before the onset of frost, so that the scion has time to take root. But it is impossible to carry out this procedure too early, since new kidneys cannot be allowed to appear.
Vaccination scheme
- Escape pruned sharp knife obliquely. They do the same with the graft.
- Then two shoots are firmly connected, connecting them with adhesive tape.
- Cover with plain paper or film.
- Wrapped with twine.
How honeysuckle reproduces
Propagation by cuttings is the most commonly used method of propagating honeysuckle. You need to start the process in the summer, by the beginning of autumn you can get cuttings with well-developed roots.
Apical cuttings are harvested early in the morning. Shoots should be about 15 centimeters. A couple of top leaves can be left, the rest removed. An oblique incision is made under the kidney. This will help root formation. The shoots are then placed in a liquid root stimulant.
In the greenhouse, the bottom is covered with rubble or pebbles. From above they are covered with earth, a mixture of sand and peat is poured on it. Be sure to water well. The cuttings are planted, leaving a distance of 10 cm between them. The shoots are placed in the soil half the height. The cuttings are watered again, covered with a film on top. Within two weeks, it is necessary to spray regularly with a spray bottle. After that, the amount of watering is reduced.
In autumn, the cuttings will have well-developed roots. They don't need to be transplanted. It is worth closing them with coniferous spruce branches, leaves or peat. A layer of such mulch will allow young cuttings to overwinter. By spring, they will be ready for planting in open ground, and next autumn for a permanent place of growth.
To propagate honeysuckle, you can also use shoots that are already stiff. Harvesting is carried out in the fall, after the leaves fall. For the winter, cut cuttings are removed to the basement or cellar.
Common mistakes beginner gardeners make
Speaking of growing honeysuckle, preparing this plant for the winter, you must strictly follow the rules of care. Beginning gardeners often make the mistake of losing plants. Among the most typical are:
- Young shoots are removed, after which the plant cannot bloom and bear fruit.
- Pruned too young bushes that have not yet reached maturity. The plant becomes weak, it is unrealistic to wait for the harvest.
- The shelter of decorative varieties of honeysuckle is neglected.
Compliance simple rules autumn care will allow you to save a plant that will delight in the summer beautiful flowers, and some varieties - delicious fruits.
Recently, at a nearby summer cottage, I saw an unusual bush that attracted my attention. More precisely, there was nothing special in the bush itself, but the berries looked very unusual - dark blue, oblong in shape, resembling a tiny barrel.
To my questions, the neighbors told me that it was honeysuckle and handed me a small seedling - it was from that time that my friendship with this beautiful plant began.
Honeysuckle is beginning to appear more and more often on our sites, and this is not surprising. Beautiful, strewn with unusual dark blue oblong berries, the bush serves not only as a garden decoration, but is also a valuable food product. Berries with an unusual taste have a positive effect on the cardiovascular system, normalize blood pressure, etc.
About two hundred varieties of honeysuckle have been bred in nature, but the most popular are Tatar and honeysuckle. Despite the fact that the plant is unpretentious - many summer residents complain about a meager harvest.
This happens mainly due to the fact that the bushes go unprepared in the winter, and gardeners simply do not know the basics of competent care for this plant. Let's understand the basic needs of honeysuckle and learn how to manage its yield.
A prosperous wintering and a bountiful harvest are possible only in favorable conditions. To do this, you will have to provide honeysuckle:
- Moist soil, dry autumn requires periodic watering;
- Regular fertilizers that help increase the winter hardiness of the shrub;
- Honeysuckle wakes up very early in the spring, so it is transplanted in the fall. For this purpose, it is carefully dug out with a large clod of earth, laid for convenience on burlap and transported in this way to a new place. Next, the bush is installed in a pit with humus, deepened by 5-7 cm and covered with soil;
- Before the onset of frost, freezing varieties of honeysuckle are covered with a thick layer of mulch.
Autumn pruning of honeysuckle: we understand why and when
Honeysuckle, like the vast majority of shrubs, is prone to active branching, so pruning is indispensable. First of all, they rid the plant of old and damaged branches - this helps to strengthen it before the upcoming cold weather and increase its productivity.
Pruning is carried out for the first time five years after planting, and the bush is cultivated a year after it reaches the age of eight. However, even young shoots are freed from extra shoots located inside the bush. As a result, landings are better illuminated and ventilated.
In fact, pruning is the most important step, with its help they solve a lot of problems at once:
- The bush becomes decorative;
- The plant is rejuvenated;
- The yield is rising;
- The number of flower buds next year is increasing;
- The shrub becomes stronger;
- The berries do not shrink and retain all their original qualities, since the lack of light makes the taste of the fruit worse.
Honeysuckle grows extremely slowly, after pruning it takes a long time to return to its previous shape, so pruning should be done very carefully.
Due to the fact that honeysuckle is an early awakening culture, pruning in the spring threatens with a lot of trouble. Especially if you do it too late and damage future fruit buds.
The ideal month for the procedure is November, when the night temperature steadily drops below zero degrees and the shrub sheds foliage.
It is not worth starting pruning earlier than this period, since too early a procedure can provoke untimely growth of the kidneys and, as a result, they will freeze.
Algorithm for autumn pruning of honeysuckle
The difference between honeysuckle and the main number of other crops is that it does not require annual pruning - full formation begins only after it reaches 5 years.
The well-being of the plant and the frequency of pruning in the future depend on the quality of the procedure. After correct pruning, re-manipulation is carried out only after a couple of years.
- To begin with, damaged and dried branches are removed from the crown - while if only the tip has dried up, then you should not cut the branch completely.
- For better ventilation, branches that are strongly inclined downwards are cut off inside the bush.
- Get rid of shoots without branches, as well as clumsy irregularly shaped branches.
- Branches directed to the center of the bush are cut off on the skeletal branches, so you prevent its shading and reduction of the fruit in size.
- In order for the honeysuckle to winter safely and give a bountiful harvest, the bush must consist of at least five shoots. Ideally, they should be from 8 to 15.
Honeysuckle branches are very fragile, so you need to be very careful.
Secrets of the formation of young and mature bushes
The procedure for pruning honeysuckle bushes of different ages has a number of significant differences.
We have already mentioned that after planting, honeysuckle is not cut, so as not to slow down its development and prevent fruiting. Until the shrub is five years old, only branches that are dried, broken and directed to the center are subject to removal.
Such gentle pruning allows the branches not to intertwine, and much more sun and moisture get inside the bush - as a result, the plant grows and develops normally.
An old shrub can be returned to full-fledged activity by suppressing old shoots and completely removing under the base of all branches whose height exceeds 40 cm. Rejuvenating pruning is started immediately after the leaves fall, after which the plant forms many new strong shoots.
Experts advise tying a shrub after rejuvenating pruning. This is done in this way: to begin with, pegs are driven into the soil along the perimeter of the crown, then they are tied with twine just above the location of the cuts. This will help prevent excessive breaking up of the bush and damage to young branches.
Honeysuckle honeysuckle - the subtleties of its formation
This is climbing plant very often used as an interesting hedge. Its formation is carried out to rejuvenate the bush, also to give it the desired shape. This type of honeysuckle grows rapidly, so you can not do without regular thinning, cut off all the branches that have served, dried up and directed inward.
Autumn care for honeysuckle after formation
Immediately after trimming, all sections are treated with var, oil paint or clay - this is done in order to protect the wounds from bacteria and accelerate their healing. Next, they collect fallen leaves and cut branches from the landing site.
To increase the yield, once every 3 years, rotted compost or manure is scattered under the honeysuckle bushes. In the autumn it is forbidden to use mineral complexes with a high nitrogen content - foliage that has started to grow on the eve of frost is completely useless to you.
For each adult shrub, 20 grams of potassium and 30 grams of phosphorus are used per square area.
Preparing honeysuckle for a long winter
Before sheltering a bush, make inquiries about its frost resistance, because the majority of varieties easily survive even the harshest winters without shelter. They do not need special preparation, just proper pruning and appropriate feeding are enough. But curly and decorative varieties need to be well insulated.
Curly vines are removed from the supports and, having collected in a bundle, they are laid on the soil or a layer of peat. From above, the bushes are covered with spruce sawdust or chopped branches. If the winter is issued with little snow, then additional snow is poured onto the shelter.
Afraid of honeysuckle winter time not only cold, but also rodents, they are not averse to eating bark and buds in the dead of winter. You can protect the vines with a specially designed mesh or synthetic bags.
The subtleties of preparing honeysuckle for the winter period in various areas
Growing and even more so preparing shrubs for wintering in different regions has significant differences, for example, the thickness of the mulch layer may vary depending on the local climate.
- Cultivation in the North means protection not only from frost, but also from starving rodents and birds;
- In the middle lane and the Volga region, cold-resistant varieties do not need to be insulated; only curly and decorative varieties of honeysuckle need shelter;
- In the Urals, varieties that are not distinguished by high frost resistance are subject to insulation. It is carried out according to the scheme described above. Do not forget to constantly monitor the amount of snow cover, adding it if necessary;
- Siberia is different large quantity snow, so the shoots are tied into a bundle so that they do not break under its weight. You can save the kidneys from bird attacks with a net thrown over a bush. And you can cope with mice with the usual poison for rodents, spread out in several places around the perimeter of the bush.
The most common mistakes in the autumn care of honeysuckle
- Pruning immediately after planting;
- clipping large quantities and young fruitful and actively budding shoots;
- A full pruning carried out before the bush reaches maturity - a weakened shrub will produce much less fruit;
- During the rejuvenating pruning of an old plant, they do not tie it up - the branches lean too low towards the soil;
- Removal of the bulk of the kidneys due to the shortening of young branches.
Recently, honeysuckle plantings can be increasingly found in gardens and summer cottages. This plant belongs to the genus of creeping, erect or climbing shrubs of the Honeysuckle family.
In total, there are more than 200 types of honeysuckle in wildlife. Most types of plants boast frost resistance and unpretentiousness when grown. Berries of some species can be safely eaten. In wildlife, honeysuckle can be found in mixed, deciduous and coniferous forests of temperate climate. The plant easily adapts to various environmental conditions. In gardening, you can most often observe Tatar honeysuckle or rosin, although today summer residents are trying to plant other plant varieties.
Honeysuckle is one of the few fruit shrubs that perfectly endures both the vagaries of the northern weather and the harsh Siberian winters. The main thing is to follow all the rules for caring for the plant, especially in the fall.
Caring for honeysuckle in the fall differs little from preparing other fruit shrubs for the onset of frost. The main components of plant care are transplanting, pruning, cleaning the territory, feeding and shelter for the winter.
Autumn honeysuckle care: highlights and features
Many gardeners transplant shrubs in the spring, but it is best to postpone this procedure until the fall. The fact is that honeysuckle belongs to shrubs with an early growing season. Already from the end of July, the plant begins a dormant period, which continues until the beginning of spring. According to the observations of gardeners, for the entire indicated period, honeysuckle does not bloom dormant buds. Thus, honeysuckle bushes can be transplanted from August until October itself.
It is important! A bush transplant should be done very carefully, because the honeysuckle root system can be easily damaged. You should prepare a new place for transplanting in advance, dig a hole several times larger than the original one. Honeysuckle should not be moved to a new place, but dragged along the ground. In order not to damage the plant, it should be loaded onto burlap and carefully moved to a new site. It is necessary to leave a clod of earth on the roots. Humus must first be added to the pit. It is required to deepen the bush by about five to six centimeters. This completes the transfer.
Honeysuckle has excellent bushiness. Shoots in large numbers are formed on old branches. In addition, young shoots are being formed in the root region. To restrain the process of disorderly branching of the shrub, you should regularly cut the branches.
You need to know! Branches should be pruned no earlier than 6 years of plant life. If everything is done correctly, then the next processing of the branches will be required no earlier than in 2-3 years.
How to cut? First, only old and dry branches should be removed. Secondly, when carrying out the procedure for rejuvenating a plant, one should not get too carried away with the process. After you finish pruning, at least five healthy trunks should remain on the bush. Experienced gardeners do not recommend pruning young branches, as they form the largest number of buds.
Fertilizing the soil is very important for honeysuckle. With this, the gardener will help the shrub to survive the winter well, and then bloom magnificently and give a good harvest of berries.
It will be wonderful if the summer resident manages to feed the honeysuckle with organic matter. To make rotted compost or humus should be no more than once every three years. This will be enough to feed the shrub. Do not get carried away with nitrogen-containing dressings, they can cause intensive growth of honeysuckle. As a result, the buds will begin to open just in time for the onset of frost, and the plant will die. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are perfect. For an adult 3-4 year old bush, it will be enough to add no more than twenty grams of potassium salts and at least thirty grams of superphosphate. The indicated proportions are calculated for one square meter of garden plantings.
Garden area cleaning
The main task of the gardener is to completely clear the near-stem circles of honeysuckle from last year's foliage. Despite the fact that the plant is rarely attacked by pests and fungal diseases, it is the foliage that can cause such troubles.
Honeysuckle shelter for the winter
Before you cover the bushes for the winter, you should understand which category of plants your honeysuckle variety belongs to. The winter-hardy plant perfectly tolerates even the most severe frosts and does not require any shelter. In such shrubs, flower buds can perfectly tolerate even forty-degree frosts, and growth buds - fifty-degree!
However, many ornamental varieties cannot boast such exceptional frost resistance. This is especially true for climbing vines. They do not have such exceptional endurance, so they should be covered for the winter. First of all, the supports supporting the plant should be removed. Then the creepers will be on the ground. Then honeysuckle should be carefully sprinkled on top with spruce branches or dry sawdust. The fallen snow will also protect the plant from severe frosts and prevent the vine from dying.
Unfortunately, plants need to be protected not only from severe frosts, but also from pests. For example, bullfinches are very fond of feasting on the fruit buds of a plant, and small rodents are very fond of honeysuckle bark. It often happens that the gardener discovers the sad consequences only in the spring, when the plant has already suffered to a large extent from pests. To prevent this from happening, honeysuckle should be protected from rodents and birds by throwing a net over the plantings.
Honeysuckle is a wonderful perennial plant that, with proper care, both in spring and summer, and especially in autumn, will delight the gardener with exquisite flowering and juicy fruits.
How to cover climbing vines for the winter - clematis, honeysuckle, passionflower
Akebia quintuple.
It does not hibernate in this zone without shelter. Since the shoots of akebia, although long, are thin and flexible, after leaf fall the lashes are removed from the supports, straightened in length and tied into one bundle, and then folded into rings, trying to give it a minimum diameter. Then they fix it with some kind of load, pressing it to the ground. Cover with plastic wrap on top, slipping its edges under the folded akebia. After that, they fall asleep on top with dry leaves, cover with spruce branches or some plant debris. With such a shelter, akebia successfully tolerates frost.
Chinese actinidia, or kiwi.
Kiwi is a very problematic crop in the northeast of Ukraine. This actinidia can only hibernate with good shelter for the winter. The vine must be removed from the support and covered, like covering grapes, i.e. or dig into the ditch, falling asleep with earth, or laying on the ground, cover with some kind of insulating material, and on top with plastic wrap.
Fortune's euonymus is by its nature a liana that climbs up a support with the help of sucker roots, but in our climate it behaves like a groundcover. The stems spread along the ground and give roots that adhere to the soil. In snowless winters, it needs shelter with dry leaves or spruce branches. Stems that are not covered and are above the snow level freeze.
In culture the following types: Chinese wisteria, bush wisteria and profusely flowering wisteria. These are powerful vines for the southern and western regions. In the conditions of the north-east of Ukraine, it can be grown as a covering crop. To do this, the stems are removed from the support, laid on the ground and covered with plastic wrap, on top of which dry leaves are poured, spruce branches or some other plant remains. In very severe winters, wisteria can freeze under such shelter.
Japanese honeysuckle.
This vine can winter in the northeastern regions only when sheltered for the winter. The whips must be removed from the support, laid on the ground and covered with a dry leaf or coniferous spruce branches, and a plastic film is placed on top of this shelter, which is pressed with something so that the wind does not blow away. Other types of honeysuckle winter well even without shelter.
In landscaping, rooting campsis, large-flowered campsis and hybrid campsis are used. For the described region, rooting kampsis is most suitable. Two other kampsis can be grown in the southern and western areas. Kampsis rooting is desirable to plant on the south side of the house, on sunny side fences and in unshaded areas. Young plants are bent to the ground for the winter and covered with dry leaves and plastic wrap. Large plants practically do not cover, since it is very difficult to bend them to the ground without breaking them. It happens that in unfavorable winters, annual shoots freeze slightly, but in spring new ones grow in their place, which bloom in the same year.
Clematis shelter for the winter
Clematis from the Jacqueman group for the winter are cut 20-30 cm from the ground and slightly spud. The vine can not be cut, but laid on the ground and covered with dry leaves, on top of which a plastic film is covered. In this case, clematis bloom earlier than on shoots grown in spring. Large-flowered clematis from the woolly group, as well as mountain clematis, are carefully removed from the support, trying not to break the shoots, laid on the ground and covered exactly as described above.
Passiflora, passion flower
Of the named exotic vines in open ground, only incarnate passionflower can be grown. Only this species is capable of producing not only shoots up to three meters in one summer, but also edible fruit. True, the fruits do not always ripen, but only when nature gives us a long, warm autumn. For the winter, the plant is cut and covered very carefully. It should be covered so that the ground in the root zone remains unfrozen throughout the winter. You can also do this: first cover the trimmed bush with earth, and then with a very thick layer of dry leaves, on top of which put a plastic wrap. The diameter of the shelter should be large enough so that the soil does not freeze.
This evergreen subshrub needs light shelter for the winter. Cover with dry leaves, spruce branches or stems of flower crops.
If it is desirable to keep the ivy shoots on a vertical support (wall, tree trunk, stone fence), then they are covered with some kind of dense material such as burlap or matting. The stems creeping along the ground winter under the snow without shelter, but since it is impossible to predict what kind of winter it will be, it is better to sprinkle them with dry leaves.
Honeysuckle honeysuckle: planting, reproduction, care (pruning). Varieties of honeysuckle. Photo creepers
Photo: Honeysuckle honeysuckle in the Moscow region
Once bouquets of honeysuckle were given to loved ones as a sign of fidelity and devotion, and artists depicted it on their canvases as a symbol of many years of love. Now, few people know about the former popularity of this liana in matters of the heart, but its decorative qualities are still in demand and continue to delight. Especially in the climate of central Russia, where the list of wintering spectacular perennial vines and even more fragrant. Honeysuckle honeysuckle is one of them. Among its advantages are unpretentiousness and very fast growth. At good care it grows up to 6 m, adding a meter or more per year. And it lives for a very long time, for several decades without losing its attractiveness.
Honeysuckle is also known as fragrant honeysuckle. This name was given to her for the unusual aroma exuded during flowering, a rare quality for a creeper.
AT wild nature it grows in the Crimea, the Caucasus and Europe - there it is often called Italian honeysuckle. Honeysuckle leaves are a favorite delicacy of local goats, for which it is also called goat honeysuckle, and the botanical “caprifolium” in translation means nothing more than “goat leaf”.
Honeysuckle has taken root in gardens for a very long time. Its attractive bright white-pink flowers with a pleasant smell and dense greenery are a real find for vertical gardening. She looks great with roses and coniferous plants and is able to decorate walls and gazebos. Honeysuckle honeysuckle is good for decorating fences, arches, outbuildings, old trees, both by itself and in combination with other climbing plants.
Photo: Honeysuckle flowers honeysuckle
Honeysuckle honeysuckle - Lonicera caprifolium - the most bright representative of the genus Honeysuckle, which combines deciduous, less often semi-evergreen and evergreen shrubs (they are the majority) and a few lianas. Honeysuckle among them is the most fragrant.
Its flowering begins in June and lasts up to two weeks. The fragrant bush looks very impressive, every 4 days new buds open to replace the faded ones. They are concentrated on annual shoots and cover almost the entire vine. Only in old plants the bottom of the shoots remains open. But with proper care, this can be corrected by pruning or planting a number of other plants that mask this “decorative flaw”.
Two-lipped honeysuckle flowers are located at top leaves and collected in bundles. The protruding stamens give them airiness. The flowers are large (up to 5 cm) and unusual in color. They are light on the inside, while on the outside they can have creamy or bright shades of reds, purples, and purples. Withering, they acquire a yellowish color. The flowers are very attractive to the bees, who willingly visit the vine. In July, red ones ripen on it. inedible berries(fruits) lasting until October. From them, you can collect seeds, they are numerous, and propagate honeysuckle (if it is not a hybrid variety).
There are two forms of honeysuckle: with numerous white flowers - alba, and more rare red-pink - pauciflora.
Leaves fragrant honeysuckle arranged oppositely, dark green, with reverse side bluish. The upper leaves are fused and form a semblance of a plate. Dense foliage does not change its color until late autumn. Expressive flowers and bright fruits stand out well on it, so the liana decorates the garden all summer and autumn.
Although honeysuckle honeysuckle southern origin, it grows successfully in Moscow and St. Petersburg without winter shelter. Only its young shoots freeze slightly, but in the spring they quickly renew themselves from new buds, growing up to a meter a year. Sellers of seedlings assure that honeysuckle can withstand a short-term drop in temperature to -40. But she is most comfortable in zones 6-9, where the temperature does not fall below -20 degrees - in such conditions she hibernates without loss. In zones 5 and 4, problems are possible after wintering.
Do not be afraid of indicators of frost resistance. After all, we have long learned to grow in our climate such heat-loving crops as roses and clematis. Compared to them, honeysuckle seems to be a completely "northern" plant.
For reference: Moscow, St. Petersburg - zone 5, Moscow region, Central Russia - zone 4, Crimea, Sochi - zone 8, Italy - zone 9.
Photo: Honeysuckle honeysuckle fruits
VARIETIES AND HYBRIDS OF HONESKY CAPRIFOLE
In addition to the natural species Lonicera caprifolium, varieties and hybrids of honeysuckle honeysuckle are cultivated. They are not so reliable and require additional care in the Moscow region.
very decorative and resistant variety honeysuckle honeysuckle "Inga" (Inga) with pink buds and cream flowers. Its shoots grow up to 3 m.
From honeysuckle and Etruscan honeysuckle came American honeysuckle (Lonicera americanum) , introduced to Russia from America in the 19th century. It freezes slightly in the Moscow region, and grows better in the southern regions and in the Crimea. She has bright red corollas, yellow on the inside.
natural hybrid honeysuckle Hekrot / Hekrott (Lonicera x heckrottii) appeared from American and evergreen honeysuckle, which means that honeysuckle honeysuckle is in his pedigree. Hekrot honeysuckle shoots are less curly than honeysuckle, and even sometimes it can grow like a bush. It blooms on the shoots of the current year. popular variety - "American Beauty" (American Beauty) . In the conditions of the Moscow region, at temperatures below -15 degrees, the tops of its shoots freeze slightly, but in the spring they grow back, so the flowering of the liana continues. Honeysuckle Hekrota blooms very beautifully and for a long time, it has no smell. The color of the corollas is fuchsia with orange, yellow on the inside. In the autumn, "American Beauty" is not as spectacular as a real honeysuckle, because due to the not very comfortable climate, it does not form bright fruits in this region. But to the south (zone 6-9), the berries ripen, and the vine looks elegant.
More frost-resistant variety of honeysuckle Gekrot / Hekrott "Gold Flame" (Gold Flame) - zones 5 to 9. He has fragrant flowers, yellow inside, and pink-red outside, similar to species.
Photo: Honeysuckle honeysuckle variety "Inga" and honeysuckle Gekrot variety "American Beauty" and "Gold Flame"
LANDING HONESKY CAPRIFOLE, CARE
Honeysuckle grows best on slightly alkaline or neutral soils, necessarily fertile, with a lot of humus. Does not like heavy and dry soil.
For landing choose a sunny place or light partial shade. Honeysuckle can exist in the shade, but there will be no flowering and fruiting here. Honeysuckles are especially comfortable near the southern walls and fences, in places that are not blown by cold winds. But in the summer, on a hot afternoon, it is desirable for her to be in partial shade.
When planting a creeper, one must take into account that it grows for a long time, and the plant needs a supply of food. landing pit dig at least 50 cm in size in all directions. To avoid stagnant water, make drainage. After filling with fertile soil. They bring in at least a bucket of old manure or compost and potassium-phosphorus or complex fertilizers according to the instructions on the package.
If several plants are planted, and they are intended for vertical gardening of a wall, building or gazebo, then it is worth digging a trench in which seedlings are distributed at a distance of at least a meter.
Landing is carried out taking into account the subsequent subsidence of the soil. Therefore, the root neck is placed 5 cm above the ground level. Do not throw soil above the root neck.
Young seedlings are watered, and make sure that the earth does not dry out. It is advisable to mulch the trunk circle. If this is not done, the plant is watered more often, the soil is loosened shallowly at the roots, and weeded.
For beautiful shape the vine needs a strong support. It can be made of metal or wood, in the form of slats, stretched cords, mesh, or in another way. The first shoots are evenly distributed along the support, given that the vine is twisted clockwise.
Seedlings planted in September will have time to grow and grow stronger by winter. In order for the survival rate to be good, seedlings are chosen no older than three years. In the first year after planting for the winter, the root system must be additionally mulched with peat.
In summer, they monitor the watering of climbing shrubs, the land around it should not dry out. Water not often, but deeply - for one plant at least a bucket of water. To retain moisture in the soil and protect against weeds, the soil at the base of the stems is mulched.
For better flowering and aroma from the second year use universal fertilizers or organic. They are brought in early in the spring. Give a good effect foliar top dressing"On the leaves" diluted complex mineral fertilizer.
Photo: Long-term shoot of honeysuckle honeysuckle with annual twigs
For the vine to be beautiful, it needs to be shaped. So that the honeysuckle shoots branch out at the base, and the trunk does not become bare, they are cut off immediately after planting, leaving 1/3 of the length.
In the second year in spring, 3-4 of the strongest shoots are selected from the regrown shoots, which will form the main skeleton of the vine, and the rest are removed. During the season after pruning, the liana will overgrow, and dense greenery from the ground itself will close the gazebo or wall. When the height of the support is reached, the shoots are cut or directed in the right direction.
Subsequently, thickening, broken and dried parts of the plant are cut annually. If this is not done, then the vine will look abandoned. If you overdo it with pruning, honeysuckle will lose its attractiveness and splendor.
If, after a frosty winter, honeysuckle does not turn green for a long time, do not rush to remove seemingly lifeless shoots. With the onset of heat, additional dormant buds wake up in her (her feature!), After which the branches start to grow. If this does not happen, then it is not too late to cut the dried shoots.
If on an adult plant flower buds becomes smaller every year, it is rejuvenated by complete pruning of the stems. Then new shoots grow from the buds on the base, and the life of the vine is revived. It is necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning every 5-6 years, preferably in two years, cutting out half of the old shoots at a time.
Honeysuckle honeysuckle is very rarely affected by diseases and pests, but still has its enemies. It can be cabbage caterpillars, aphids, powdery mildew, rust fungi. Fight them with the help of specially designed drugs, which are presented in the distribution network.
Honeysuckle does not need shelter for the winter, but its varieties and hybrids may suffer more from frost (young shoots). Although all of them are capable of regrowth, it is better to protect them for the winter. In October, creepers are lowered from supports to the ground like clematis and covered, for example, with spunbond, dry foliage or spruce branches.
Growing new honeysuckle plants is carried out from seeds, cuttings or using layering.
This is the most time-consuming process, starting with the stratification of seeds. It is carried out in wet sand for 2 months at a temperature of 0 to + 5 ° C (basement, refrigerator ...). Prepared seeds are sown in nutritious light soil based on peat, humus and sand, taken in equal parts. Lightly sprinkled with sand on top, cover with any transparent material, creating a greenhouse, before the emergence of seedlings, ventilate daily and moisten if necessary. Keep in a warm and bright place, but not in the sun itself. Sowing is carried out in March (for seedlings) or in open ground after the end of spring frosts. At winter sowing in open ground, seeds often germinate only a year later in the fall.
After sowing, seedlings are looked after, planted in a timely manner. Seedlings are ready for planting next spring, and flowering will come in the third or fourth year, fruiting will begin a year later. Until this time, it is advisable to cover the plants for the winter, for example, spud with peat, or put spruce branches, or cover with lutrasil.
The easiest way is to propagate by layering. The lower branches of the vine often grow to the soil themselves, and this happens very easily. Therefore, if necessary, it is necessary to pin the shoot and do not forget to water it. In autumn, you can plant rooted branches in a permanent place.
Cuttings for propagation are cut after flowering and planted in a greenhouse. They are taken from the middle part of the shoot. The cutting must have at least two internodes. The lower one is placed in the ground, having previously removed the leaves, and the upper one is placed above the soil level, its leaves are slightly shortened.
For rooting, cuttings need humid environment and non-sunny bright place. They can be planted in a greenhouse or in a special box under the film and shaded. The substrate should be light and fertile and contain a lot of peat and sand.
Growing honeysuckle honeysuckle from green cuttings - standard process, requiring periodic watering, weeding, loosening, airing. The fact that the cuttings have taken root, that is, they have formed a root system, can be judged by the new leaves that have appeared on them.
For the winter they need to be covered (leaves, peat, spunbond or another choice). The following year, seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place. In the second year after transplantation, honeysuckle blooms. This propagation method is suitable if a large number of plants are required.
In addition to summer cuttings, autumn ones are suitable for propagation - they are cut and planted before winter or early spring, keeping them in the sand in the basement in winter. You can take spring cuttings, they are cut before flowering, when new shoots have grown at least ten centimeters.
USEFUL PROPERTIES OF HONESTUCK CAPRIFOLE
Admiring the aroma and decorativeness of honeysuckle, many do not assume that it has healing powers. These medicinal properties have been used by people for hundreds of years.
An infusion of dried leaves, stems and flowers of honeysuckle honeysuckle has an antiseptic and diuretic effect.
A decoction of dry leaves is used to gargle with sore throat, pharyngitis.
Crushed fresh honeysuckle leaves with leaked juice are applied to wounds and ulcers, which then heal quickly.
Infusion of honeysuckle flowers has antipyretic and diaphoretic properties.
To prepare the infusion, you need a teaspoon of dried raw materials and a glass of boiling water. It is insisted in heat for 30 minutes. At the reception - a tablespoon of infusion. Frequency: 3-4 times a day.
A decoction will be obtained if, instead of insisting, a weak fire is used for 5 minutes or a water bath.
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Let's talk about the time of planting honeysuckle honeysuckle, as well as the main points of care and reproduction of the flower!
Vertical gardening garden plots practiced almost everywhere. For these purposes, there are many variety of plants both perennials and annuals.
Among the variety of vines, honeysuckle honeysuckle stands out. Its height can reach about six meters. This plant is considered a favorite in the garden by flower growers. It's connected with rapid growth plants, unpretentiousness, the presence of large quantities of green leaves and fragrant inedible fruits.
Types and varieties of Honeysuckle
You can decorate arches, gazebos or facades of buildings with the help of vines. The most common types of honeysuckle are:
Characterized by large dark leaves. Since the beginning of summer, a large number of creamy pink flowers, blooming with the onset of twilight. At night, a stunning persistent aroma spreads from the flowers, attracting insects to pollinate the vine;
thermophilic honey plant. The Serotina variety has raspberry-colored flowers that bloom throughout summer season. Fruits in the form of bright red berries hang in clusters;
fuchsia brown
A hybrid of two types - evergreen and rough honeysuckle. Blooms profusely from the end of June. The plant is of medium height and has decorative properties both with and without support. The most popular variety is Dropmore Scarlet;
Rough
Flowers are orange-yellow in color, blooming in early June. Blooms profusely and brightly. creeper height about four meters. Valued for unpretentiousness in cultivation and undemanding to the composition of the soil. Easily propagated by seeds and cuttings.
Reproduction by cuttings
Propagation of honeysuckle honeysuckle by cuttings has certain difficulties. blank suitable material carried out after the flowering of the mother plant has ended. Suitable shoots should be cut with a sharp knife.
The branches are immersed in the soil no deeper than three centimeters and covered on top of glass jars. The shelter is removed not earlier than leaves appear on the cuttings.
Shelter plants for the winter
After the plant has been planted in the garden, it must be covered for the winter during the first two years. Spruce branches are ideal as a material for shelter coniferous trees or fallen leaves. It is not necessary to remove the vine from the support, the shoots are resistant to frost. The main thing - protect the root system.
All subsequent years, honeysuckle does not need shelter.
Consider the varieties of Hydrangea paniculata and anabel in this publication.
See in this article how to care for Dieffenbachia at home.
Diseases and pests
Ornamental types of honeysuckle are mostly resistant to various diseases and pests, but it is impossible to be completely sure that the plant will always be healthy. Among the diseases of honeysuckle, the most common are the following:
- fungal diseases
- Phytovirus diseases
fungal diseases
If the plant grows in areas where there is an increased level of humidity, spots may appear on the leaves of the plant, causing the honeysuckle to dry out and die. Sometimes the vine is affected by powdery mildew. The lower part of the leaves is covered with a white bloom. In order to prevent these diseases, it is recommended in early spring spray the plant with a solution of foundationol
Phytovirus diseases
Very common in most horticultural crops, and are sometimes able to infect honeysuckle. The leaves of the plant are covered with spots of light green color and speckles near the central vein. The most effective measures to combat these diseases is the observance of all agrotechnical rules for growing honeysuckle and the acquisition planting material only from trusted sellers with a good reputation. If there are diseased bushes in the garden, they should be dug up and burned.
The honeysuckle sawfly lays its eggs on the lower parts of the leaf blades. Caterpillars, which will soon be born, are very voracious. They are characterized by eating holes in the leaves of various shapes. Pests are eliminated manually, as their number never numerous.
If in the summer time curled leaves are seen on young shoots, then, most likely, a rose or currant leaflet has settled on the honeysuckle. Honeysuckle moth and honeysuckle miner are known for making narrow passages in plants. With the mass appearance harmful insects treatment with Inta-Vir, Eleksar or Decis solution is recommended.
In nature, there are more than a hundred species of honeysuckle. Of this variety, the fruits of only a few varieties are not suitable for human consumption. All other plants are great therapeutic agents. Berries can be used fresh, or in the form of medicinal preparations. Also used and honeysuckle root system.
In detail http://floradoma.com/komnatnyie-rasteniya/zamiokulkas-peresadka.html we will discuss how to transplant Zamiokulkas and select correct pot for a plant.
The fruits are useful for ulcers and people who have problems with gastrointestinal tract. Berries are very sweet, fragrant, widely used in the treatment of arrhythmia, gout and arthritis. The juice of the plant is excellent for the treatment of skin diseases.
Decoctions of honeysuckle leaves are used as an anti-inflammatory agent, they are excellent for eliminating colds. Diseases that are difficult to treat, for example, a trophic ulcer, disappear if applied honeysuckle fruit juice.
Small amounts of berries are useful for women during pregnancy. They should be eaten every morning before meals. Plus, honeysuckle is a good diuretic.
We should not forget that there are types of honeysuckle that are poisonous to human body. It is not recommended to give edible fruits of the plant for young children under the age of five, so as not to cause an allergic reaction in the form of a rash, itching and redness of the skin.
Preparing honeysuckle for winter. Honeysuckle shelter for the winter
Honeysuckle is rightfully considered an unpretentious and very winter-hardy plant. She easily endures the vagaries of northern weather and Siberian frosts. But this does not mean that honeysuckle is not prepared for winter at all. Any plant loves care and care - this is the only way to get a full-fledged harvest of berries and an attractive appearance.
Like all fruit bushes, honeysuckle requires pruning, harvesting and top dressing in the fall.
Unlike currants and gooseberries, honeysuckle is released from fruits in the first half of summer. Accordingly, her leaf fall begins much earlier. Therefore, autumn is the best time for pruning. After the age of six, it is necessary to thin out and rejuvenate the bushes every two to three years.
First of all, diseased, drying and broken branches are removed. Then come the branches of the shaded lower tier and dry shoots. After that, old branches are cut out so that no more than five thick trunks remain on the bush.
Be sure to get rid of the parts of the bush that lie on the soil and do not participate in fruiting. But you should not cut the tops of the shoots of honeysuckle - they contain the main flower buds, damage to which will lead to a noticeable decrease in yield.
After leaf fall, all fallen leaves are removed from under the honeysuckle bushes. Carefully remove the remains of organic mulch, if it is present in the near-stem circles. Despite the fact that most of the pests common to our gardens do not damage the honeysuckle, this does not prevent them from settling down to winter under its branches.
Every autumn, honeysuckle should be fed using potash and phosphorus fertilizers. Nitrogen at this time should not be used. For adult bushes, 30 grams of superphosphate and 20 grams of potassium salt are enough for each square meter of plantings. But once every three to four years, it is advisable to add organic matter - humus or well-rotted compost. These natural fertilizers will not only increase the fertility of the soil, but also promote the development of beneficial bacteria found in healthy soil.
Shelter for the winter
Most varieties of honeysuckle are very hardy. Their growth buds, like wood, tolerate frosts down to minus 50 ° C without problems. Roots and flower buds do not die down to minus 40 °C. And during flowering, the bushes are not afraid of short-term frosts down to minus 8 ° C.
But decorative and, especially, beautiful curly varieties do not have such endurance. All creepers must be removed from the supports and bent to the ground - so the buds are better preserved under the snow. To be sure, you can even lay them on peat and cover with spruce branches.
Mice, rats and other rodents rarely damage honeysuckle bark. But forest birds, such as bullfinches or waxwings, moving closer to garden plots in winter, are very fond of pecking at its fruit buds. In some areas of Eastern Siberia, this becomes a real problem, forcing bushes to be covered with nets or bags of synthetic fabrics.
Honeysuckle care in autumn and preparation for winter: fertilizer, pruning and shelter
Increasingly, honeysuckle can be seen in summer cottages: a climbing or erect shrub strewn with blue berries. Biologists know about 200 varieties, but only two of them have gained great popularity - honeysuckle and Tatar honeysuckle.
The berries of the shrub have not only an unusual taste, but are also endowed with a number of medicinal properties. The substances contained in honeysuckle have a beneficial effect on the state of the cardiovascular system: they strengthen blood vessels, prevent the development of arteriosclerosis, and lower blood pressure.
Despite the unpretentiousness of the shrub, many gardeners fail to harvest a full-fledged crop of medicinal berries. Most likely, the reason for poor fertility lies in improper preparation for winter. What needs to be done in the fall to increase the yield of honeysuckle?
Features of caring for honeysuckle in the fall and its preparation for winter
In order for the shrub to winter safely and please with healing berries, it is important to provide it with the most comfortable conditions.
autumn care for honeysuckle includes:
For successful wintering and good fruiting after pruning, the bush must consist of at least 5 shoots.
Important! Branches break very easily, so the bush must be cut with extreme care.
Video: how to cut honeysuckle in the fall
Features of pruning young and old honeysuckle
The sequence of pruning honeysuckle of different ages differs significantly from each other.
The nuances of pruning a young honeysuckle bush in the fall:
To bring an old abandoned bush back to life, owners need to suppress old branches or completely cut the plant under a stump: all shoots that are more than 40 cm high are cut with pruners. Anti-aging pruning is best done after leaf fall or, as a last resort, in early spring, while the honeysuckle has not yet woken up. As a result of such pruning, the bush will form many new strong shoots.
Worth knowing! Experienced gardeners recommend tying a bush after rejuvenating pruning: for this, wooden or metal pegs are buried in the ground along the perimeter of the plant, and then tied with a rope a little higher than the place of cuts. Such a support will prevent a strong collapse of the plant and breakage of young shoots.
Video: pruning honeysuckle in the fall
Honeysuckle is an unpretentious plant, many of its species withstand Siberian winters even without shelter. But in order to grow a rich harvest of berries, so that the plant has a well-groomed appearance, it must be monitored.
By the end of summer, the plant must begin to prepare for winter.. This is pruning branches, cleaning weeds and dry branches, feeding the plant. Regarding the fallen leaves, the opinions of gardeners differ. Some believe that this is additional protection from the cold and it is not necessary to remove dry leaves. Others call for the cleaning of fallen leaves, in which they hide for the winter. garden pests.Honeysuckle autumn planting technology
Autumn planting and shrub transplantation is preferable to spring. This is due to the fact that the plants wake up early after wintering. If you replant them at this time, then they will probably not be in time with the growing season in the same season. But, given the early "departure" of plants for wintering, autumn transplantation should be carried out earlier than most. garden trees. During the transplant procedure the following specific requirements for honeysuckle must be considered:
- Choosing a site for its cultivation. Lonicera does not like dampness, this photophilous plant. It is optimal that its top be in the sun, and the lower part would be in partial shade.
- Honeysuckle prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil. If the soil on the site is not of suitable composition, then peat, sand and turf should be added to it.
- To receive big harvest fruits, it is necessary to plant a shrub in groups.
- The best time to plant lonisera is September.
Landing technology:
- The plant needs a hole measuring 45 by 45 cm. A bucket of humus, 200 grams of superphosphate and four times less potassium salt should be added to it.
- The roots are pre-soaked in fertilizer, and straightened before planting.
- After planting, the bushes are well watered, and then mulched. trunk circle.
- Neighboring bushes should recede from each other by a meter and a half.
- The root neck must be left level with the ground. After watering, it will gradually drop a couple of centimeters.
How to trim honeysuckle (video)
Autumn care for honeysuckle begins at the end of summer, this is a whole range of activities that must be completed before the cold weather. All of them contribute to abundant flowering and fruiting of the shrub in the next season. To do this, care must be taken to introduce the necessary nutrients.
Autumn top dressing of honeysuckle
For autumn feeding potash and phosphate fertilizers are used. Per square meter of beds, you need to add 30 grams of superphosphate and 20 grams of potassium salts. But every three years, bushes should also be pampered with organic matter - humus or mature compost. This will create a prerequisite for the development of beneficial bacteria in the soil.
Nitrogen top dressing can provoke shrub growth in anticipation of wintering and bud break. This will lead to the death of the plants.
The root zone must be fertilized using the following technology:
- For newly planted bushes around the circumference, they dig holes a third of a meter deep, and for a rooted shrub, this depth is doubled.
- Mullein diluted six times or bird droppings and mineral fertilizers are poured into the recesses.
- Peat is used for mulching.
About watering honeysuckle in autumn
Honeysuckle belongs to moisture-loving plants, even after harvesting it needs regular watering, although they become less frequent and plentiful.
At the same time, it is impossible to loosen and dig up the soil, because. Honeysuckle roots are superficial and can be injured. But the mulching layer of sawdust or compost must be changed often, because. it retains moisture well and does not allow weeds to grow.
Scheme and rules for pruning honeysuckle in the fall
Capricole bushes well, many shoots form on old branches, and young growth grows from basal buds. So that the branching process is not chaotic, and the shrub does not take on a sloppy look, regular pruning is necessary.
During the cutting process, observe following rules:
- Plants need it only five years after planting, subject to all the subtleties of the process, they will need the next pruning only after a couple of years.
- Only old and dry shoots are subject to removal.
- At the end of the pruning, at least five shoots should remain on the bush.
- Young branches should not be removed, because. it is on them that the kidneys are formed.
- First of all, the top of the skeletal branch is cut off, the cut is made in the middle of the branch, and not near its base.
- The remaining branches are thinned out, removing small shoots that cause the crown to thicken, as well as growing inward and weakened branches.
- After that, the appearance of increments will be ensured for the next year.
- A shrub that has reached the age of twenty is cut at a height of no more than 40 cm, i.e. on the stump
Spraying honeysuckle in autumn
Lonicera is very resistant to pests and diseases, but for preventive purposes, every couple of years in early spring or autumn after leaf fall, each bush is sprayed with diluted urea. At the same time, 700 grams of granules are used per bucket of water.
Honeysuckle shelter for the winter
When sheltering lonisera before wintering, you first need to figure out which variety honeysuckle belongs to. Frost-resistant varieties do not need winter shelter, because. their flower and growth buds withstand even forty-degree frosts. Mostly these qualities are possessed by edible plant species. Even when flowering, they are able to endure eight-degree frosts.. But still, not an extra measure of protection for them is tying the branches into bundles and bending them to the ground. This avoids breaking branches under heavy snow cover.
Ornamental varieties are not so hardy. Curly vines are especially in need of shelter. They remove the supports, bending the plants to the ground, then sprinkle them with spruce branches or sawdust on top. It is also good to cover the plants with a roll covering material. Snow cover provides additional protection from the cold.
In most cases, these plants need protection from pests in winter. So, bullfinches peck out their fruit buds, and mice and hares gnaw their bark. To prevent this from happening, a net is thrown over the shrub for the winter.
How to plant honeysuckle (video)
Time and technology of autumn grafting of honeysuckle
Autumn vaccinations of honeysuckle are carried out after leaf fall, so that the graft has time to take root, but could not grow with the advent of new buds. The technology of this process is simple:
- The scion and stock are cut obliquely with a sharp tool.
- Tightly connect them and fix this place with tape.
- Top cover with foil and a sheet of paper.
- The last layer is wrapped with twine from above and below.
- Vaccination is checked after three weeks.
How to propagate honeysuckle in autumn cuttings
Effective green cuttings, beginning in summer and continuing until autumn. In the early morning, apical shoots 15 cm long are harvested. Only a couple of upper leaves, cut in half, are left on them. The rest of the leaves are removed. An oblique cut is made under the kidney to stimulate root formation. The cuttings tied in bundles are lowered into the root stimulator.Then the rooting of the shoots is carried out. The bottom of the greenhouse is covered with drainage from pebbles or rubble. A twenty-centimeter soil layer is placed on it, and a ten-centimeter substrate from equal parts of peat and sand is placed on top. Water this mixture well.
Shoots are planted in rows, leaving 10 cm between them, and half as much between neighboring plants. They are placed vertically, deepening by half. Then they are watered and covered with a film. At first, they need frequent spraying (up to 10 times). To do this, use a spray gun. After a couple of weeks, after the formation of roots, the amount of watering is reduced.
By the beginning of autumn, the cuttings already have developed roots.. For wintering, the cuttings remain in the same place. They are mulched with peat, covered with leaves and coniferous spruce branches with a layer of several centimeters. In the spring they are planted in open ground, and by autumn they become full-fledged trees that can be planted in a permanent place.
Another option for propagating honeysuckle by cuttings is the use of lignified shoots. They are harvested after leaf fall, stored in the basement in winter or dug in the ground.
Features of honeysuckle care (video)
Honeysuckle - vitamin complex, including sugars, organic acids, minerals, pectins and tannins. In folk medicine, all parts of the plant have long been used as an antipyretic, strengthening blood vessels, diuretic, astringent, antiseptic. With proper care of the plant, you can not only harvest a good harvest of delicious fruits, but also decorate the garden with an unpretentious and beautifully flowering shrub.