Rules for planting grapes: the distance between the bushes. Through what distance is it better to plant grapes Distance of grape seedlings

Vineyard planting planning consists of choosing a site for the vineyard, choosing bush planting plans and choice landing method.
Choosing a place for planting a vineyard.
Grapes are a southern plant. He loves the sun and heat very much. This determines the choice of location for the vineyard.
The site for growing grapes should not be closed from the south by tall trees or buildings. And it is very good when tall trees and buildings close the plot from the north - they will protect the vineyard from cold winds. Closely growing trees on the east or west side also interfere with the grapes very much - they close the sun and take food from the roots. Grape bushes should be planted as far away from tall trees as possible.
It is good if the area for growing grapes has a flat surface. Even better if the site has a slight slope towards the south or southwest. Such an area is warmed up by the sun best.

The roots of grapes are very fond of loose soil. And they do not like very strong dampness at all. The area allotted for the vineyard should not be heavily flooded with water - in spring or during rains. The presence of water too close below the soil surface also greatly hinders grape bushes. The roots of grape bushes can penetrate to a depth of more than eight meters, and can get moisture from great depths. Therefore, it will be easier for grapes to tolerate a slight drought than constant waterlogging of the soil.
Of course, soil fertility is of great importance for the size of the crop. But on sandy soils, grape bushes get sick much less than on dense black soil. And if there is a choice, it is still better to plant bushes on soils with a high sand content. It is necessary to feed and water the bushes on any soil. And the best health of the bushes in this case is much more important.
Scheme of planting vines.
The planting pattern is the distance between grape bushes in the vineyard. Choosing a planting pattern when planning a vineyard is very important. You can alter the design of the trellis, you can change the formation of the bushes. You can change varieties - regraft the bushes. But changing the landing pattern is very difficult. The time lost in growing an improperly planted vineyard cannot be regained.
The planting scheme of the bushes consists of two dimensions - the distance between the bushes in a row and the distance between the rows of grape bushes. Both of these sizes are completely dependent on the choice of the type of trellis, and are highly dependent on the varietal characteristics of the bushes. Vigorous varieties are best planted with slightly larger distances between bushes in a row. For vigorous varieties, it is better to give a load of green shoots a little more than for low-growing ones, in order to prevent fattening of the bushes.
Be sure to take into account the fertility of the soil in the future vineyard. The better, more fertile the soil in the area where you plan to grow grapes, the larger the bushes will need to be grown so that they do not start to fatten. Accordingly, the distance between the bushes in a row will have to be increased.
When calculating the distances between the bushes in a row, I will talk about the length of the trellis plane necessary to accommodate the green shoots of one bush - in running meters. Here you need to remember the average recommended load on one bush with green shoots - thirty green shoots.
It is very difficult to place green shoots of table grape varieties on the plane of the trellis thicker than at a distance of ten centimeters from each other. It turns out a strong thickening, the leaves are worse illuminated and poorly ventilated. On the plane of the trellis, all clusters are located at approximately the same height, and with a small distance between the shoots, large clusters will simply lie on top of each other. Which also greatly increases the number of diseases and pests on the berries. Most often, growers try to place green shoots at a distance of fifteen centimeters from each other. But to calculate the size of the planting scheme, let's take the distance between the shoots a little less, twelve centimeters - the “toad” must be respected.
Let's immediately compare two types of tapestries - one-plane and two-plane.
On a single-plane trellis, all green shoots of one bush are located on the same plane. When using a two-plane trellis, green shoots of one bush are placed on two planes. It is clear that with the same distances between bushes in a row, on bushes on a two-plane trellis, it is possible to grow green shoots with clusters twice as many. Accordingly, in this case, the load of one bush on a two-plane trellis will be twice as much.
Now let's calculate the dimensions of the bush planting scheme separately for the main types of trellises.
The scheme of planting bushes for a single-plane trellis.
Ten centimeters between green shoots is the minimum distance at which green shoots can be placed on the plane of the trellis. Believe me, you will definitely not like working with such densely spaced shoots. To calculate the size of the bush planting scheme, we take the distance between the green shoots a little more - 12cm. We multiply the approximate number of green shoots on one bush by the distance between them - 30 by 12 cm - we get the desired length of the trellis plane to accommodate the shoots of one bush - about three and a half meters.
We choose the distance between the bushes in a row so that at this distance the length of the trellis plane is placed, which is necessary to accommodate the minimum sufficient number of green shoots of one bush. On a single-plane trellis, all green shoots of one bush are placed on the same plane, and the required length of the trellis plane for one bush will be equal to the distance between the bushes in a row.
The first size of the landing pattern for a single-plane trellis was calculated - the distance between the bushes in a row should be three and a half meters.
Now about the distance between the rows of bushes.
A single-plane trellis is the simplest and most convenient to maintain. Only such trellises can be used if you cannot plant rows of bushes in a north-south direction. Well, it doesn't work any other way in your area. For example, let's say that the bushes are planted in an east-west direction. With this direction of the rows, the plane of the green shoots of one row of bushes can obscure the leaves on the plane of the adjacent row. For this case, practical observations have determined the minimum distance between adjacent planes of the trellis, and hence the rows of bushes.
When the rows of a single-plane trellis are directed from east to west, the distance between adjacent planes is chosen not less than the height of the trellis plane.
In our case, the height of the trellis plane is two meters. The distance between adjacent planes should be the same - two meters. This will be the second size of the bush planting scheme for a single-plane trellis, the distance between the rows of bushes will be at least two meters - rice. 20.
You can immediately determine the size of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot for growing one bush with such a planting scheme - feeding area of ​​one bush. This size conditionally determines the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot on which the roots of one bush are located. We multiply the distance between the bushes in a row by the distance between the rows of bushes - 3.5m by 2.0m. The feeding area of ​​\u200b\u200bone bush with such a planting scheme will be equal to seven square meters. About 4-5 green shoots with clusters grow on one square meter of the plot area.
Regarding the size of the feeding area of ​​the bushes, of course, a lot of research has also been done. At the moment, the size of the feeding area per bush is recommended to be at least five square meters. If the feeding area is smaller, there will simply be nowhere to apply fertilizer to feed thirty green shoots on one bush.
Let's talk again about the number of berries grown on one bush and on one square meter of plot area. As I said, on one green shoot one and a half meters long, the number of leaves makes it possible to grow a bunch weighing about six hundred grams. The grower has a desire to increase the length of the shoots on the plane of the trellis, to increase the number of leaves for growing clusters of greater weight.
You can increase the height of the trellis plane, for example, up to three meters. On such a plane, you can grow and place green shoots with a length of at least 2.5m. The number of leaves on such a shoot can be ensured by growing a bunch weighing up to one and a half kilograms on each shoot - the yield from the bush will increase. But…
Such a high plane, among other things, will more strongly obscure the leaves on adjacent trellises. You will have to increase the distance between the rows of bushes, and as a result, the yield of berries per square meter of vineyard area will not increase. Exactly the same result will lead to any other attempts to increase the length of green shoots.
It is better to use a single-plane trellis even if the slope of the site surface is too large - you have to plant rows of bushes across the slope. The dimensions of the planting scheme - the distance between the rows of bushes - in this case are selected depending on the magnitude of the slope, the convenience of carrying out annual work and the feeding area of ​​​​the bush. The distance between the bushes in a row in any case will be the same - three and a half meters.
The advantage of a single-plane trellis is the ability to use it in any direction of the rows relative to the cardinal points. If you plant a row of bushes and install a single-plane trellis in the direction from north to south, the illumination of the leaves on the plane will improve, and then you can reduce the distance between the rows to one and a half meters - fig. 20a.
At the same distances from each other, rows of bushes can also be planted if you want to use a pergola-shaped support for bushes. When placing the vines on the pergola, all green shoots are located on a horizontal plane, which is not shaded by anything. Due to this, the direction of the rows of bushes relative to the cardinal points does not matter - on a horizontal plane, the leaves are always illuminated in the same way.
With the landing pattern shown in Fig. 20a, the feeding area of ​​​​one bush will be a little more than five square meters, and about six green shoots with clusters will grow on one square meter of the plot.
The scheme of planting bushes for a two-plane trellis.
On a two-plane trellis, green shoots of one bush are placed on two planes. Thanks to this, in order to place the same thirty green shoots on two planes, the distance between the bushes in a row can be reduced. But too much to reduce the distance between the bushes in a row is still not worth it. This will lead to a very strong decrease in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe nutrition of the bushes. Even worse, the length of perennial branches is greatly reduced, and it will be much more difficult to bend them for laying on the ground, for shelter.
I recommend the distance between the bushes in a row for a two-plane trellis is not less than two meters - the first size of the planting pattern. In this case, one bush will have four linear meters of trellis - two meters on one plane, and two meters on the other. On such a length of the plane, it is quite convenient to place about thirty-five green shoots.
Since two rows of posts with wire are installed on one row of bushes, the distance between rows bushes need to be increased. It would be ideal to make the distance between the rows three meters. But a two-plane trellis is always installed with the direction of the rows only from north to south. The illumination of the planes with this direction of the rows is very good. Thereby the distance between the rows of bushes can be increased (relative to single-plane trellis) only up to two and a half meters - the second size of the landing pattern - rice. 21. Practical experience with a two-plane trellis also confirms the sufficiency of such a distance between the rows of bushes.

With this planting scheme, the bush accounts for a feeding area of ​​five square meters of land. This is the smallest size of the feeding area for one bush, according to the recommendations of experts. Therefore, the size of the landing pattern should not be reduced in any conditions.
Once again, pay attention. The feeding area of ​​one bush when growing grapes on a two-plane trellis is less than on a single-plane one. At the same time, the dimensions of a two-plane trellis make it possible to grow, on a smaller plot area, the number of green shoots with a yield even slightly larger than on a single-plane trellis. Accordingly, seven green shoots with clusters can be grown on one square meter of the plot, and the yield of berries per square meter, when growing bushes using a two-plane trellis, is greater than on a single-plane trellis.
When choosing a scheme for planting bushes, it is necessary to take into account such an important circumstance as soil fertility. If you plan to grow grapes on very poor soils - sandy, rocky, etc., then the growth force of the bushes will be much less. In this case, the number of green shoots for growing on one bush can and should be reduced. Accordingly, the distance between the bushes in a row must be reduced.
And, of course, when determining the load of bushes and choosing a planting pattern, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions of your area. Grapes love the sun and heat very much. If your summer is cold and short, then the bushes will be weaker, they will grow smaller. In such conditions, the load of shoots on the bushes must also be reduced. Accordingly, the distance between bushes in a row can be reduced. But even if you leave the same number of shoots per bush, the number of berries on the bushes must be reduced, otherwise they will not ripen well. What can you do - you want to grow grapes in extreme conditions.
At the same time, the distance between rows of bushes in the north, you even need to increase it a little so that the sun can better warm the soil under the bushes. In the north, for growing bushes, it is better to install only a single-plane trellis, and in such conditions it is better to plant rows of bushes only in the direction from north to south in order to avoid shading the soil between the rows with the planes of the trellis.
This is how the planting pattern for grape bushes is approximately chosen.
Next, we will choose a method of planting grape bushes.
METHODS FOR PLANTING GRAPES
For any part of my story, many growers will have objections. So is the way of planting bushes. Disputes about the depth and methods of planting bushes are ongoing - in communication on grape forums in particular. I will talk about three ways to land. I will tell you about the advantages and disadvantages of these landing methods - from my point of view. And you will have to choose the best way to plant your bushes.
Planting bushes to a depth of 30 cm - "on the bayonet of a shovel"
The landing method, in which the heel of the underground trunk is at a depth of 25-30 centimeters - fig. 22. At this depth of planting, most of the roots are located in the most fertile, upper soil layer.
The easiest and cheapest way to land.
Advantages:
- it does not require large expenses - money and labor - for planting bushes. Even fertilizers can not be applied to the planting pits during planting - they can be easily applied to the topsoil at any time.
- at this depth of planting, the roots grow in the most fertile soil layer. Fertilizers applied to the soil reach the roots very quickly. Drip irrigation works ideally - soil with drip irrigation gets wet to much greater depths.
- the soil at such a depth in the spring warms up much faster. In the spring, when growing grapes in greenhouses, the bushes begin to grow much earlier.
- at such a depth, the soil warms up enough even in the northern regions of grape cultivation.
- in this way you can plant grapes on the slopes in any direction - even along the slope.
Disadvantages:
- in a snowless winter at such a depth, the soil freezes very easily. Which leads to the complete death of the root system - the death of the bush. Mandatory frost protection is required for the ENTIRE soil surface in the vineyard.
- in spring, the soil to the depth of the roots warms up very quickly. Bushes begin to wake up very early, and may fall under spring frosts.
- in the summer in the southern regions, the soil warms up very strongly. When the soil is heated above thirty degrees, the work of the roots deteriorates. When most of the roots are located at a depth of thirty to forty centimeters, you will have to protect the soil from overheating - by mulching.
- Irrigation must be applied in summer. Without watering at such a depth, the roots can die from drought very quickly.
- irrigation systems should be only drip or sprinkling. Just putting the hose under the bush will no longer work - there is nowhere to draw water under the bush.
- in this way it is impossible to plant bushes on the slopes with arranged terraces. The soil on the terraces freezes much deeper than on a flat area.
Planting bushes to a depth of 50cm with limited root formation in the surface soil layer.
With this method of planting, the heel of the seedling is at a normal depth of 50 cm. Bushes are planted on the site without creating trenches and boxes. But the upper part of the underground stem of the bushes is protected from contact with the soil. In any available way, a void with a diameter of thirty centimeters and a depth of thirty centimeters below the soil level is created around the trunk. Such an air shell around the upper part of the underground trunk does not allow roots to appear in the surface layer of the soil - dew roots - fig. 23.
I’ll tell you in more detail why such difficulties are needed when planting bushes.
As you know, the top layer of soil is the most fertile. All types of fertilizers first of all fall into the top layer of the soil. It is in this layer that most of the organic remains of plants, therefore, most of the soil living creatures live here. This layer of soil warms up earlier and faster than the sun, most often it is saturated with moisture during rare rains in a hot summer. All this is very like the roots of plants. The roots of grapes (dew roots) also grow primarily in the surface layer of the soil. They like it there so much that if they are not disturbed, then very quickly the grape bush switches to feeding only on the roots in the surface layer of the soil. The roots in the deeper layers develop poorly, every year occupying a smaller and smaller part in the nutrition of the bushes.
Everything would be fine if not for the frost and drought. In a very cold and snowless winter, the soil can freeze to a very great depth. And all the roots in the topsoil die. By about the third year of the life of the bush, the roots in the topsoil already make up most of the root system, and after such frosts the bush remains practically without roots. Such a bush is very sick, and may even die. The same can happen in very hot and dry summers.

To avoid such losses, growers are constantly coming up with ways to get rid of dew roots. Conducted twice a year cathartic . That is, they dig an underground trunk to the depth of a spade bayonet, and cut off all the roots to this depth. The work is very laborious - even for a small personal plot. In addition, an infection can get into the cuts, and the bush will hurt.
Figure 7 shows the results of this work.
I spent a quartering on this bush every year. These roots - in the yellow circle - grew in one summer. And it is clearly seen how much thinner the lower part of the root stem is even during the annual rolling.
To reduce the influence of surface roots, bushes in various ways are forced to develop roots growing from the heel in the first place. To do this, when planting grapes on seedlings, all roots are removed, except for the heel roots - the lowest roots on the seedling. Also, in order not to allow dew roots to grow, the upper part of the underground stem of the seedling is wrapped with plastic wrap when planting. But over time, the trunk becomes thicker, the film begins to interfere, and you have to do this work again ....
To deal with dew roots, I chose a much easier way. I plant bushes in such a way that at a depth of thirty centimeters below the soil level, there is no earth around the trunk - ALWAYS . That will not give the opportunity to appear here dew roots.
It's simple - when planting, I protect the upper underground part of the seedling from the soil with a capacity without a bottom. An ordinary ten-liter plastic bucket - rice - is best suited for this. eight.
Video - Planting a seedling for permanent residence
Figure 9 shows the root system of a bush that I grew in this way. The red line roughly shows the level of the soil and the location of the container, which limits the appearance of upper roots.
It is clearly seen that strong roots have grown in the lower part of the root stem, all of about the same size, which will provide good nutrition to the bushes.
For the manufacture of fences, you can use not only plastic buckets. You can protect the trunk from the soil with bricks cut off on both sides with ten-liter plastic canisters. You can also use old metal buckets without a bottom for fencing. But metal buckets increase the freezing of the soil, so it is better to pull them out of the ground in winter. For more convenient extraction from the soil and installation back, I cut the metal buckets in height before installation.
Using such a fence is a very simple and reliable way to deal with dew roots. In the spring, you only need to remove soil and debris from the tank. And that's it.
Just want to warn you against hasty action.
This way restrictions on root growth in the surface layer of the soil suitable only for planting new bushes . It often happens. We listened to a story about this method of planting, about its advantages, and ... dig up the soil around already quite mature bushes, remove the roots, and install limiting containers. Under no circumstances should this be done!! ! If the bush is more than two years old, it has already managed to grow rather powerful roots in the surface layer, which supply the bushes with a very large part of the nutrition. When you remove the roots to a depth of 30 cm, the bush loses a very large part of the roots that feed it. After such an “operation”, the bush will be very sick, and if the bushes are old enough, they may die. You need to act very carefully, and it is better to use this method only when planting new bushes.
The advantages of this landing method:
- the possibility of freezing of the roots at such a depth of planting is much less.
- with such a depth of planting during a drought, the bushes suffer much less.
- in this way, you can also grow grape bushes on the slopes, directing rows of bushes along the slope.
- with such a planting depth, it is already possible to grow grapes without irrigation at all. If you mulch the soil well and from the very beginning accustom the bushes to the lack of irrigation.
Disadvantages:
- again, you can water the bushes only with drip irrigation systems or sprinkling. Especially in areas with a slope of the soil surface.
Video - Planting green seedlings - the first part
Planting green seedlings - the second part
Planting grapes in autumn
I would like to know about watering. In areas with flat surface , with good soil mulching, I have no problems with watering the bushes. Under mulch, the soil is very loose. I water according to the principle of "put the hose and forget it." So, even when carrying out autumn moisture-charging irrigations - when I "forgot" the hose for a long time - in half a day I could not completely fill in my three bushes grown on a trellis.
Due to the fact that the surface of the soil under these bushes is well mulched.
Video - Moisture-charging irrigation
Planting vines in boxes.
The most reliable and easy-to-maintain way of planting vines. But it requires additional costs - labor and finance.
Bushes are planted at the bottom of specially made boxes - trenches. Trenches are dug in advance, before planting bushes. Trench depth 25-30cm. When digging, the soil from the trenches is placed in the row spacing, which significantly raises the level of soil in the row spacing, so that you need to dig less. The walls of the finished trenches are strengthened from shedding in any way possible. The ideal option is brick walls.
The columns of the trellis rows are always installed outside the boxes. For the winter, vines of bushes are placed in boxes. Then shelter is laid on the walls of the boxes. If the trellis columns stand inside the boxes, they will greatly interfere with the laying of covering materials.
You can cover the vines in boxes with boards, slate, etc.
The width of the boxes depends on the type of trellis. For a single-plane trellis, the width of the box is approximately 50 cm - fig. 24. You can’t make boxes very narrow - you need to put all the vines in them to cover winter. At the same time, do not make the box too wide. Indeed, for rows with single-plane trellises, the box is placed between the rows. Too wide boxes will prevent us from passing between the rows.
The width of the box for two-plane tapestries is limited only by the distance between the planes of the rows of tapestries - fig. 25. But it is also impossible to make boxes too narrow. Inside, between the planes of the trellis, you can constantly pass to spray the bushes. At
this narrow box will interfere very much.
Grape bushes are planted at the bottom of the boxes. The planting depth of the bushes is small - the heel at a depth of 25-30 cm from the surface of the bottom of the trench. But, despite this, when planting in boxes, neither frost nor drought will damage the roots. At a shallow depth, the roots are only inside the box. Here they are securely covered with mulch from drying out in summer. In winter, the boxes must be covered, which reliably protects the roots from frost. The bulk of the roots are in the aisles. But there they are located at great depths, reliably protected by a thick layer of soil.
I want to draw attention to a very important point. The trellis columns are necessarily outside the box. And the first wire on the plane of the trellis is placed at a height of 50 cm from the level of the soil in the row-spacing.
Advantages of planting bushes in boxes:
- an easy way to plant bushes at a shallow depth. At the same time, there are no difficulties with dew roots.
- perennial branches of bushes are significantly lengthened - the stock of perennial wood increases.
- bushes take cover for the winter much easier and more reliably. In addition, longer perennial vines are easier to bend when laid on the ground.
- any irrigation method can be used.
Disadvantages:
- the manufacture of boxes increases costs - finance and labor.
- when planting in boxes, rows of bushes can only be placed across the slope.
- when planting in boxes, covering bushes for the winter simply with earth will no longer work.
About the methods of planting bushes - everything. Choose.

Many people love grapes, so they undertake to grow it on their site. Viticulture is a fascinating business, but it has many rules and nuances. Certain knowledge is indispensable here. One of the first questions that a novice grower has is about the placement of bushes.

How to arrange grapes on your site

The following factors have a significant influence on the distance between grape bushes in a row and between rows:

• Soil fertility. On fertile land, grapes will grow more intensively, so you need to leave more distance to the next bush.
• The size of the force of growth of bushes. If a vigorous variety is grown, it is also necessary to leave a greater distance between the bushes.
• The nature of the proposed shaping of grapes. The future form in the horizontal direction (its size, number of arms and their location) is a significant point in determining the interval between the bushes.
• The need to shelter the plant for the winter. Sheltered viticulture involves the presence of wide row spacing.
• Wallpaper design. Single lane options require less row spacing than double lane options.

A two-strip trellis requires more spacing between rows than a single-strip

From the foregoing, it can be seen that the layout of the grapes is determined by two parameters - the intervals between the bushes and the row spacing.

There are general recommendations of growers on the layout of plants on the site. The placement of rows from north to south or from east to west is considered optimal, but in practice this advice is not always followed, they often proceed from the shape of the site, the presence of buildings and other objects on it.

Regarding the layout of the grapes, the recommendations are as follows:

• Row spacing should be greater than or at least equal to the distance between plants in the row.
• For a single-plane trellis, an inter-row distance of up to 2.5 m is sufficient, but not less than 2 m.
• When using two-plane tapestries, the optimal distance between them is at least 2.5–3 m.
• From one bush to another in a row, the distance can vary between 1.5–4 m. As a guideline, you can take the feeding area necessary for each bush. It should be at least 5–6 m 2.

Vine growers, who are most scrupulous in their approach to the issue of planting scheme, can use existing methods for calculating its parameters for production purposes. For example, at 10.1 m you can place 5 rows of grapes 9.95 m long each with an interval of 2.4 m between them.

In any case, it should be understood that all theoretical recommendations are a skeleton on which the muscles of reality must be built up. They must be adapted to specific conditions: the characteristics of the microclimate of the site, the composition of the soil, the grape variety, the nature of its forthcoming formation.

When planting a crop on your site, you must not forget about the interests of your neighbors.

Clause 6.7. SNiP 30-02-97 *, approved version of December 30, 2010 No. 849 "Planning and development of the territory of gardening (country) associations of citizens, buildings and structures", states that the minimum distances to a neighboring site should be for the trunks of tall trees - 4 m, medium-sized - 2 m, shrubs - 1 m.

Building regulationshttps://www.crimea.kp.ru/daily/25887/2848140/

*SNiP - building codes and regulations.

Regardless of the governing legislation, the vine trellis should not obscure the plants behind the boundary. In addition, the need to apply chemicals to the processing of grapes can provoke conflict. Experienced viticulture enthusiasts advise not to plant grapes along the northern boundary with neighbors in general, but with a different arrangement of trellises, retreat deep into your site by about 3 m. If the trellis is located perpendicular to the boundary, you should form an extreme bush only inside your territory. With such a solution to the problem, neither the vines nor the roots of the grapes will penetrate the neighbors' plot.

In areas where it is permissible to grow crops without shelter for the winter, bushes are often planted along the walls of buildings, near arbors, arches, pergolas. This landing has its own nuances.

The vineyard should be located near the wall of the building that is most illuminated during the day

When planting grapes near the wall of a building or structure, it is placed at a distance of 1–1.5 m from the foundation so that the roots of the plant do not destroy it, and the walls do not become damp during irrigation. Bring the culture to the wall using an inclined trellis. At the same time, one should not forget that this is a sun-loving plant, so it should be placed at the wall of the building that is most illuminated during the day.

For vine bushes near gazebos, arches, pergolas, the following are important:

• lack of nearby competing plants - shrubs and trees;
• the location of the grapes outside the shadow of buildings and economic facilities.

If these conditions are met, the grapes will not only grow and develop successfully, but will also give a good harvest of berries.

Video: grape planting schemes

Table: distance between grapes and objects on the plot

Planting pattern depending on the variety

One of the decisive points that determine the pattern of planting grapes is the strength of the growth of a particular variety:

• vigorous;
• medium height;
• undersized.

For vigorous grapes, the shoots of which exceed 2 m, a larger feeding area is required - up to 5–6 m 2. Based on this, as well as from the methodology for the further formation of a bush, the distance to the neighboring one is determined. So, when forming in one sleeve with a row spacing of 2 m, a distance in a row of 2.5–3 m will be sufficient for vigorous grapes. 5–6 m.

A gross violation of the growing conditions necessary for grapes leads not only to a decrease in yield, but also to a loss in the quality of the fruit.

Table: feeding areas for different grape varieties

greenhouse grapes

In many regions with a cold climate and short summers, grapes are grown in greenhouses. A solid experience of such viticulture has already been accumulated. But this method is also used in the regions of traditional cultivation of vines in open ground, since the greenhouse protects the plant from many adversities - the vagaries of the weather, wasps and other pests, diseases.

Grape bushes in the greenhouse are placed at a distance of 2.5–3 m from each other

In the conditions of a greenhouse, as viticulture practices testify, it is possible to plant 3 vines even with its small area of ​​​​6 m 2. In this case, the planting pattern is no longer as important as the placement of the grapes. So that the plant does not get sunburned, in contact with the walls or roof of the greenhouse, a planting pit or trench for planting several vines is made at a distance of half a meter from the wall, and the upper wire of the trellis should be no less than 0.4 m from the roof of the greenhouse. Several bushes grapes in the greenhouse are placed at a distance of 2.5–3 m from each other.

When growing grapes in a greenhouse, the choice of variety is of particular importance. The plant should not be vigorous, prone to the formation of a large number of stepchildren, while in cold regions it is important that its ripening period is not very long. For example, in the Moscow region, the following varieties are recommended for greenhouses:

• Michurinsky;
• Russian currant;
• Moscow Steady;
• Northern early.

In the Urals and to the north, preference should be given to grapes:

• Delight is perfect;
• Black Hamburg;
• Bulgaria is sustainable;
• Foster white.

Features of planting grapes in different regions

No matter how attractive greenhouse viticulture is, in various regions, regardless of climate, there remain enthusiasts of growing vines in the open field. At the same time, the scheme and process of planting grapes undergo the most minor changes.

Ural and Siberia

In the Urals and Siberia, summers are short, and winters are long and cold. In the open field, grapes grow slowly, so there are recommendations not to prune them for the first year or two, so that the vine gains growth. Varieties are selected winter-hardy and with a minimum or average ripening period. Recommended early frost-resistant varieties:

• Li-4;
• Alyoshenkin;
• Purple early;
• In memory of Golikov.

The planting density of the bushes also changes - each is allocated about 1 m 2 for feeding, but the depth of the planting pit increases to 1 m. In the trench, the bushes are placed at a distance of 1 m from each other. Of course, in these regions, grapes are covered for the winter.

In the Urals and Siberia, grapes have to be covered for the winter

Central Russia

In these places, viticulture began to develop relatively recently due to the emergence of new varieties bred by breeders. Such grapes have a short fruit ripening period and manage to produce a crop in a short summer. It is recommended to plant varieties here:

• Augustine;
• Don agate;
• Alyoshenkin;
• Alexander;
• In memory of Dombkovskaya;
• Rusevn;
• Kuibyshev's firstborn;
• Ilya Muromets;
• Lucille.

The following planting scheme is used: in a row between bushes 1–3 m, between rows - 2–3 m. Planting depth - no more than 0.4 m.

Moscow region

This region has become a springboard for the movement of grapes to the north. Ultra-, super- and simply early varieties are grown here, otherwise they will not have time to ripen, and having frost resistance up to -35ºС. The depth of the landing pit, depending on the density of the soil, can be from 0.2 to 0.5 m. It is recommended to leave 2 m between bushes, and 3 m between rows.

For many regions

Pink table grapes of Russian early variety can be recommended for cultivation from Ukraine to the Urals, Siberia and the Far East. It winters well at frosts of -23ºС, that is, in more southern regions it can be grown without shelter, and in more northern regions - under careful shelter. They plant it in planting pits 80x80 cm, leave 2 m between the bushes.

One of the oldest and northernmost grape varieties, Amursky is unpretentious, frost-resistant and perfectly adapts to growing conditions. You can grow it in any natural area. It can be cultivated as a technical one, then when planting between seedlings, they leave from 0.8 to 1 m. To obtain table grapes, this distance is increased to 1.5 m. The distance between rows is 2–2.5 m.

The correct scheme of planting grapes, correlated with all other parameters of growing the vine, can be the key to successful viticulture, subject to further regular care of the plant in accordance with all the rules of agricultural technology.

Many people love grapes, so they undertake to grow it on their site. Viticulture is a fascinating business, but it has many rules and nuances. Certain knowledge is indispensable here. One of the first questions that a novice grower has is about the placement of bushes.

How to arrange grapes on your site

The following factors have a significant influence on the distance between grape bushes in a row and between rows:

• Soil fertility. On fertile land, grapes will grow more intensively, so you need to leave more distance to the next bush.
• The size of the force of growth of bushes. If a vigorous variety is grown, it is also necessary to leave a greater distance between the bushes.
• The nature of the proposed shaping of grapes. The future form in the horizontal direction (its size, number of arms and their location) is a significant point in determining the interval between the bushes.
• The need to shelter the plant for the winter. Sheltered viticulture involves the presence of wide row spacing.
• Wallpaper design. Single lane options require less row spacing than double lane options.

A two-strip trellis requires more spacing between rows than a single-strip

From the foregoing, it can be seen that the layout of the grapes is determined by two parameters - the intervals between the bushes and the row spacing.

There are general recommendations of growers on the layout of plants on the site. The placement of rows from north to south or from east to west is considered optimal, but in practice this advice is not always followed, they often proceed from the shape of the site, the presence of buildings and other objects on it.

Regarding the layout of the grapes, the recommendations are as follows:

• Row spacing should be greater than or at least equal to the distance between plants in the row.
• For a single-plane trellis, an inter-row distance of up to 2.5 m is sufficient, but not less than 2 m.
• When using two-plane tapestries, the optimal distance between them is at least 2.5–3 m.
• From one bush to another in a row, the distance can vary between 1.5–4 m. As a guideline, you can take the feeding area necessary for each bush. It should be at least 5–6 m 2.

Vine growers, who are most scrupulous in their approach to the issue of planting scheme, can use existing methods for calculating its parameters for production purposes. For example, at 10.1 m you can place 5 rows of grapes 9.95 m long each with an interval of 2.4 m between them.

In any case, it should be understood that all theoretical recommendations are a skeleton on which the muscles of reality must be built up. They must be adapted to specific conditions: the characteristics of the microclimate of the site, the composition of the soil, the grape variety, the nature of its forthcoming formation.

When planting a crop on your site, you must not forget about the interests of your neighbors.

Clause 6.7. SNiP 30-02-97 *, approved version of December 30, 2010 No. 849 "Planning and development of the territory of gardening (country) associations of citizens, buildings and structures", states that the minimum distances to a neighboring site should be for the trunks of tall trees - 4 m, medium-sized - 2 m, shrubs - 1 m.

Building regulationshttps://www.crimea.kp.ru/daily/25887/2848140/

*SNiP - building codes and regulations.

Regardless of the governing legislation, the vine trellis should not obscure the plants behind the boundary. In addition, the need to apply chemicals to the processing of grapes can provoke conflict. Experienced viticulture enthusiasts advise not to plant grapes along the northern boundary with neighbors in general, but with a different arrangement of trellises, retreat deep into your site by about 3 m. If the trellis is located perpendicular to the boundary, you should form an extreme bush only inside your territory. With such a solution to the problem, neither the vines nor the roots of the grapes will penetrate the neighbors' plot.

In areas where it is permissible to grow crops without shelter for the winter, bushes are often planted along the walls of buildings, near arbors, arches, pergolas. This landing has its own nuances.

The vineyard should be located near the wall of the building that is most illuminated during the day

When planting grapes near the wall of a building or structure, it is placed at a distance of 1–1.5 m from the foundation so that the roots of the plant do not destroy it, and the walls do not become damp during irrigation. Bring the culture to the wall using an inclined trellis. At the same time, one should not forget that this is a sun-loving plant, so it should be placed at the wall of the building that is most illuminated during the day.

For vine bushes near gazebos, arches, pergolas, the following are important:

• lack of nearby competing plants - shrubs and trees;
• the location of the grapes outside the shadow of buildings and economic facilities.

If these conditions are met, the grapes will not only grow and develop successfully, but will also give a good harvest of berries.

Video: grape planting schemes

Table: distance between grapes and objects on the plot

Planting pattern depending on the variety

One of the decisive points that determine the pattern of planting grapes is the strength of the growth of a particular variety:

• vigorous;
• medium height;
• undersized.

For vigorous grapes, the shoots of which exceed 2 m, a larger feeding area is required - up to 5–6 m 2. Based on this, as well as from the methodology for the further formation of a bush, the distance to the neighboring one is determined. So, when forming in one sleeve with a row spacing of 2 m, a distance in a row of 2.5–3 m will be sufficient for vigorous grapes. 5–6 m.

A gross violation of the growing conditions necessary for grapes leads not only to a decrease in yield, but also to a loss in the quality of the fruit.

Table: feeding areas for different grape varieties

greenhouse grapes

In many regions with a cold climate and short summers, grapes are grown in greenhouses. A solid experience of such viticulture has already been accumulated. But this method is also used in the regions of traditional cultivation of vines in open ground, since the greenhouse protects the plant from many adversities - the vagaries of the weather, wasps and other pests, diseases.

Grape bushes in the greenhouse are placed at a distance of 2.5–3 m from each other

In the conditions of a greenhouse, as viticulture practices testify, it is possible to plant 3 vines even with its small area of ​​​​6 m 2. In this case, the planting pattern is no longer as important as the placement of the grapes. So that the plant does not get sunburned, in contact with the walls or roof of the greenhouse, a planting pit or trench for planting several vines is made at a distance of half a meter from the wall, and the upper wire of the trellis should be no less than 0.4 m from the roof of the greenhouse. Several bushes grapes in the greenhouse are placed at a distance of 2.5–3 m from each other.

When growing grapes in a greenhouse, the choice of variety is of particular importance. The plant should not be vigorous, prone to the formation of a large number of stepchildren, while in cold regions it is important that its ripening period is not very long. For example, in the Moscow region, the following varieties are recommended for greenhouses:

• Michurinsky;
• Russian currant;
• Moscow Steady;
• Northern early.

In the Urals and to the north, preference should be given to grapes:

• Delight is perfect;
• Black Hamburg;
• Bulgaria is sustainable;
• Foster white.

Features of planting grapes in different regions

No matter how attractive greenhouse viticulture is, in various regions, regardless of climate, there remain enthusiasts of growing vines in the open field. At the same time, the scheme and process of planting grapes undergo the most minor changes.

Ural and Siberia

In the Urals and Siberia, summers are short, and winters are long and cold. In the open field, grapes grow slowly, so there are recommendations not to prune them for the first year or two, so that the vine gains growth. Varieties are selected winter-hardy and with a minimum or average ripening period. Recommended early frost-resistant varieties:

• Li-4;
• Alyoshenkin;
• Purple early;
• In memory of Golikov.

The planting density of the bushes also changes - each is allocated about 1 m 2 for feeding, but the depth of the planting pit increases to 1 m. In the trench, the bushes are placed at a distance of 1 m from each other. Of course, in these regions, grapes are covered for the winter.

In the Urals and Siberia, grapes have to be covered for the winter

Central Russia

In these places, viticulture began to develop relatively recently due to the emergence of new varieties bred by breeders. Such grapes have a short fruit ripening period and manage to produce a crop in a short summer. It is recommended to plant varieties here:

• Augustine;
• Don agate;
• Alyoshenkin;
• Alexander;
• In memory of Dombkovskaya;
• Rusevn;
• Kuibyshev's firstborn;
• Ilya Muromets;
• Lucille.

The following planting scheme is used: in a row between bushes 1–3 m, between rows - 2–3 m. Planting depth - no more than 0.4 m.

Moscow region

This region has become a springboard for the movement of grapes to the north. Ultra-, super- and simply early varieties are grown here, otherwise they will not have time to ripen, and having frost resistance up to -35ºС. The depth of the landing pit, depending on the density of the soil, can be from 0.2 to 0.5 m. It is recommended to leave 2 m between bushes, and 3 m between rows.

For many regions

Pink table grapes of Russian early variety can be recommended for cultivation from Ukraine to the Urals, Siberia and the Far East. It winters well at frosts of -23ºС, that is, in more southern regions it can be grown without shelter, and in more northern regions - under careful shelter. They plant it in planting pits 80x80 cm, leave 2 m between the bushes.

One of the oldest and northernmost grape varieties, Amursky is unpretentious, frost-resistant and perfectly adapts to growing conditions. You can grow it in any natural area. It can be cultivated as a technical one, then when planting between seedlings, they leave from 0.8 to 1 m. To obtain table grapes, this distance is increased to 1.5 m. The distance between rows is 2–2.5 m.

The correct scheme of planting grapes, correlated with all other parameters of growing the vine, can be the key to successful viticulture, subject to further regular care of the plant in accordance with all the rules of agricultural technology.

Planting Density Planning Considerations

The choice of planting density, that is, determining the row spacing and the distance between the bushes in a row, is one of the most important decisions that must be made before planting. This decision has a viticultural, technological and economic impact in the cultivation of grapes throughout the life of the vineyard and is no longer amenable to correction. Incorrect decisions can complicate the cultivation process for a long time or cause significant damage to the quality of the grapes. Against this background, the need for careful planning of planting density, which should take into account various aspects, is not questioned.

First the goal - then the solution

Managing the yield and quality of a vineyard is more dependent on constant conditions (eg location factors, properties of individual varieties) and the vagaries of the weather throughout the year. However, this does not mean that the volume of grape yield should be perceived as unalterable, unchanging phenomenon. In recent years, the possibilities of targeting the yield and quality of grapes through certain measures in the field of viticulture have been increasingly recognized and used. However, this potential remains unclaimed in many vineyards.
One who recognizes and seizes opportunities location planning vineyards as a tool for autonomic controland generative productivity of grapes(yield, components that determine the quality of the crop), must first formulate the goal of the relevant planning. The answer to the question " What do I intend to achieve with the new vineyard?» is a prerequisite for rational planning.
Undoubtedly, the answer to this question can be very different. Some will try to minimize the cost of a liter of wine. In this case, the goals that must be taken into account in planning are the creation of the best prerequisites for mechanization and the achievement of relatively high yields. A viticultural enterprise capable of selling wines in the prestigious premium segment needs wines whose quality corresponds to the price level. Different initial situations of this kind lead, for example, with regard to yield, to completely different goals, and hence to planning.

Significance of the degree of pruning and location for growth force

Among other productivity factors, in the sphere of influence of the winegrower, such a factor as the number of eyes per square meter (degree of pruning) has the greatest impact on the yield in the long term and on average over the years, and therefore affects the quality of the crop.
In connection with the choice of the location of the vineyard, the expected degree of pruning (number of eyes per m 2) plays a decisive role in determining the load of the bush (number of eyes per bush), and therefore for the expected vigor of vine bushes.

This creates the following relationship:
Number of eyes / m 2 (= cutting degree) × location [m 2 ] / bush - number of eyes / bush(= bush load with eyes)
The vigor of grapes has a different effect on the quantity and quality of the crop. Both too large and too weak force of growth should be avoided. Table 1 shows the most significant disadvantages of too much and too little vigor when growing grapes.

Table 1: Oenological and horticultural disadvantages with too much or too little vigor.

Assuming that the degree of pruning (number of eyes per m 2) is a value set by the grower in order to achieve the desired result, then the location of each bush is the factor that most strongly affects vegetative(number and length of shoots) and generative(harvest of grapes) hive load.
The greater the vegetative and generative load of the bush, the weaker its growth force becomes. This is especially the case when the water and nutrient absorption capacity does not correspond to a high load, i.e. mainly in fine soils containing fine earth, with a high proportion of long-term planting, and also in the presence of a weak rootstock.

In this case, the criterion for determining the force of growth is not the size or leaf surface of the bush, and the growth rate of the shoots. This is reflected in the average length of the internodes and the thickness of the shoots. A two-year-old vine, cut too much, is still able to grow stronger than a large and wide vine.

Given the optimal results of the cultivation of grapes, in any case, it is necessary to strive to achieve an average vigor. This goal can only be achieved if the factors influencing the strength of the growth of grapes are known. Figure 1 shows the most important factors influencing the strength of the growth of grapes. In addition to factors such as soil properties, tillage system, fertilization and choice of rootstock, the load of the bush also plays a decisive role.

Figure 1: Factors influencing strength of growth

The task of the vine grower is to assess the impact of given factors (soil, sometimes also tillage system) on the expected vigor of growth even before planting. It must be known how the water and nutrient supplies will be distributed, and what kind of tillage system is envisaged in this case. As a result, all other factors, in particular the load of the bush and rootstock, must thus be coordinated with each other in order to ensure an average growth force of the future vineyard. The layout of the vineyard thus has a great impact on the future vigor of growth due to such factors as the load of the bush.

The degree of pruning should be planned in such a way that, based on experience with the selected grape variety in a comparable location, the desired level of yield, on average over the years, can be achieved as far as possible. It is necessary to arrange the vines in such a way as to achieve the desired moderate (promoting growth) or high (reducing growth) vine loading.

Determination of row spacing

After a decision has been made on the type of location: moderate (< 2 м 2 /куст), среднее (от 2 до 3 м 2 /куста) или высокое (>3 m 2 / bush), the question arises of the implementation of this solution. The layout of the location includes both the choice of the desired row spacing and the distance between the bushes in a row. At the same time, it is also necessary to decide whether to first determine the row spacing and then calculate the distance between the bushes necessary to achieve the desired arrangement, or whether the reverse process would be more rational.

Row spacing is more important in terms of the use of mechanization than the distance between bushes in a row. From an economic and technological point of view, it makes sense in all areas where the same system of mechanization is used, taking into account their topography, to use as uniform row spacing as possible. The mechanization systems used are designed for a width of approximately 1.8 to 2.3 m, for tractors with bulky tires the lower limit is 2 m.

The choice of row spacing should not, however, depend solely on aspects of mechanization and economic aspects. On the contrary, the question arises as to how sufficient, within the framework of these aspects, the row spacing is also acceptable in crop and oenological terms. The desire to minimize the costs of economic activity or optimally adapt to the applied system of mechanization should not lead to an unacceptable loss of quality.

Research in recent years has convincingly proved the importance of good lighting and ventilation of the vineyard to achieve its analytical and sensory quality, as well as its level of health. The required high productivity of the assimilation of the existing leaf mass can also only be achieved in the case of good direct illumination of the largest number of leaves. For the purpose of darkening the bunches of grapes and leaves, the following two reasons are taken into account:

1. Protection from sunlight due to the foliage of neighboring vine bushes (Figure 2)
2. Darkening inside the foliage as a result of its compaction

Figure 2: Mutual darkening of the foliage of adjacent vines

The size of the darkened area of ​​the leaf surface due to the mutual dimming of neighboring bushes depends on the angle of incidence of sunlight, as well as on the ratio between the height of the foliage (VL) and the distance between neighboring plants (PP). Increasing the row spacing (= VL + RR) leads to a decrease in mutual dimming.
But at the same time, one should not strive to establish an extremely large row spacing. With an increase in the row spacing at a given degree of pruning, the number of pruned eyes per linear meter of a row increases:

Example:
Degree of pruning 6 eyes / m 2, row spacing 2 m, 12 eyes per linear meter are needed
Degree of pruning 6 eyes / m 2, row spacing 3 m, 18 eyes per linear meter are needed

With an increase in the number of eyes per linear meter of a row, the number of shoots per linear meter also increases, and as a result, compaction within the row. An increase in the row spacing leads, provided that the yield and the degree of pruning are maintained, to the fact that as a result of the first reason, the darkening is reduced, while as a result of the second reason, the darkening of the vine bushes increases. Relatively narrow row spacing results in a sparse leaf area as shown in Figure 3, while very large row spacing results in dense foliage as shown in Figure 4.

Figure 3: Sparse foliage with slight compaction and darkening

Figure 4: Too dense foliage with significant compaction and darkening

The choice of the optimal row spacing, taking into account aspects of illumination and ventilation, requires a compromise. As a result, in white grape varieties, the distance between adjacent rows ( RR) must at least match the height of the foliage ( VL). For red grape varieties, it is especially important to provide the grapes with as much intense and long-term illumination as possible, since this increases the pigment content and reduces acidity (especially malic acid). For this reason VL similar varieties should be at least 1.2 of RR. The degree of intense illumination of white grape varieties depends on the variety and the type of wine required. Depending on the goals, intense light exposure of white grapes can play a negative role (decreased acidity, increased phenol content, altered aroma structure, relatively high susceptibility to UTA).

The described relationship between VL and RR is relevant for determining the required row spacing only if the height of the leaf surface is maintained constant. The desired leaf height is calculated from a leaf to fruit ratio (FFR) of 18-22 cm 2 of leaf area per gram of grape yield. In varieties with small fruits, this ratio is generally achieved at a foliage height of 1.2 to 1.4 m (distance from the lower to the upper edge of the bush). Given the high yield per shoot of varieties such as Dornfelder, it is desirable that the height of the foliage be more than 2 meters, which is an absolutely impossible requirement. In this case, by reducing the yield of grapes from one shoot through thinning or short pruning, an optimal leaf-to-fruit ratio (FFR) can be achieved. Also, the height of the foliage is limited by the maximum working height of harvesters and leaf trimmers.
Based on these considerations, we can give an example of calculating the row spacing that is acceptable from the point of view of crop production:

Initial data:

The lower edge of the foliage = 0.7 m, the height of the top (upper edge of the foliage) = 2.1 m, VL = 1.4 m
Average density of fully developed foliage (FL) = 0.4 m

Calculation:
White varieties: 1.4 m RR (= VL) + 0.4 m PL = 1.8 m minimum row spacing
Red varieties: 1.68 m RR (= 1.2 × VL) + 0.4 m PL = 1.98 m minimum row spacing

It can be verified that the desired minimum row spacing often lies within the same row spacing ranges that are technologically acceptable.
Acceptable maximum row spacing depends on the planned degree of pruning. The wider the row spacing and the higher the degree of trimming, the greater the number of cropped eyes per linear meter. If it is necessary to properly thin out double shoots and water shoots not needed to maintain the shape of the bush, up to 15 eyes per linear meter can be cut, which will not lead to unacceptable compaction of the row. Table 2 shows the number of eyes per linear meter depending on the degree of pruning at various row spacings. If the limit value of 15 is exceeded, either the row spacing or the degree of trimming must be reduced. Taking into account the expected effect of bush compaction, it would be acceptable, for example, to maintain 6 eyes per m 2 with a row spacing of 2.4 m, while when cutting 8 eyes per m 2, the width should not exceed 1.9 m.

Table 2: Required number of eyes per linear meter of row depending on the row spacing and degree of pruning

Determining the distance between bushes in a row

If, taking into account the presented reasoning, the row spacing was determined, the question arises of determining the distance between the bushes in a row. In practice, it is often necessary to first solve the question “one or two sleeves per bush?”, And, depending on the answer, determine the distance between the bushes. This reasoning, of course, is understandable, but it does not agree much with plant growing and oenological requirements. A more important question is whether to reduce the load of the bush due to the small distance between the bushes and thereby increase the growth force, or whether it is necessary to increase the load of the bush by increasing the distance between the bushes in the row and thereby reduce the growth force. The arguments necessary in this connection have already been presented above. And now two examples:

Example 1:
Row spacing 2 m, frame trellis, location conducive to rapid growth and good plant yield, Riesling variety, planned pruning degree 6 eyes per m 2
12 eyes were cut per linear meter of row length
Given these circumstances, a large distance between the bushes in the row was chosen, since a high bush loading was necessary to prevent too much growth force, taking into account soil conditions conducive to growth, and a small degree of pruning.
Possible solution: 1.5 m distance between bushes in a row× 12 eyes per linear meter = 18 eyes per bush
2 sleeves with 8 eyes each plus 2 additional replacement knots with one eye
In this case, it makes sense to place two sleeves with 8 eyes at a distance of 1.5 m. With an average length of internodes of 9 cm, their length will be 2× 72 cm. To avoid overlapping sleeves, it is necessary to form two shortened sleeves (horns) with a small top (Figure 3 on the right)

Example 2:
Row spacing 1.8 m, frame trellis, location with moderate plant growth and productivity, Vaiser Burgunder variety, pruning degree 7 eyes per m 2
1.8 were cut per linear meter of row length× 7 = 12.6 eyes
Given these circumstances, a small distance between the bushes in the row was chosen, since a moderate load of the bush was necessary to prevent too weak growth, taking into account soil conditions conducive to weak growth, and a relatively high degree of pruning.
Possible solution: 0.9 m distance between bushes in a row× 12.6 eyes per linear meter = 11 eyes per bush
1 sleeve with 10 eyes plus 1 shoot with one eye
In this case, it makes sense to place one sleeve with 10 eyes at a distance of 0.9 m. With an average internodal length of 8 cm, the length will be 80 cm. In the case of using a lowered arch, the placement of such a number of eyes is not a problem (Figure 3 on the left).

An increase in the distance between the bushes in a row leads to an increase in the load of the bush. She is not can reduce the density of foliage or contribute to the rarefaction of the zone of clusters. The decisive factor influencing the density of foliage, in many respects, is the number of cut eyes per linear meter.

With a pruning degree of 8 eyes per m 2, a row spacing of 2 m and a distance between bushes in a row of 1.3 m, we get 1.3 m × 2 m × 8 eyes per m 2 = 20.8 eyes per bush, and with a distance between bushes 0.9 m we get 0.9 m × 2 m × 8 eyes per m 2 = 14.4 eyes per bush. In both cases, the same number of eyes is obtained 16 per linear meter. This indicator, ultimately, is significant for the density of shoots. If there is concern that the foliage is too dense, reduce row spacing while maintaining yield and trim levels, or reduce trim and yield while maintaining row spacing.

Is dense planting of grapes profitable?

In addition to the considerations described above, other studies have appeared in recent years that are also of great importance in this regard.

Average growth strength can be achieved both in the case of using a weak rootstock and an insignificant bush load (short distance between bushes in a row, 1 sleeve), and with a high bush load (large distance between bushes, 2 sleeves) using a strong growing rootstock. However, grapes with a slight bush load are less susceptible to stressful situations (especially drought). Otherwise, it has been proven that the "competition between the roots" of neighboring vines leads to the fact that in the case of dense planting, the horizontal spread of the root system decreases, which favorably affects the vertical spread of the roots. Given the sufficient supply of water and nutrients to the plant, this effect can be assessed as positive. In this regard, the risk of disturbing the fermentation process and the predisposition to UTA is also reduced. Also, planting more densely contributes to the formation of more active root tips per m 3 of soil area capable of absorbing nutrients, which also has a beneficial effect on the absorption of nutrients and the ability to use these nutrients.

These effects become meaningful when the load on the bush is reduced by increasing the planting density, taking into account qualitative aspects. But at the same time, it should be emphasized once again that this goal should be achieved by reducing the distance between the bushes in a row, and not as a result of reducing the row spacing. The required leaf height and the associated minimum row spacing, taking into account the PSL, do not allow this. A small leaf height and corresponding small minimum row spacing would be acceptable only in the event of a significant reduction in the yield of grapes per bush.

Translation from German Andrey Kulichkov.

The original article is located.

Kira Stoletova

The distance between the grape bushes affects the further development and yield of the crop. The density of the vineyard is determined immediately, because in the future it will be impossible to change it. Gardeners create a vineyard layout by calculating the distance between grapes, after which they prepare planting material.

Pickup time and place

Planting material is planted in autumn or spring. In spring, planting is carried out in late April - early May. At this point, the culture takes root most well. The autumn period for planting begins from October until the first frost. In autumn, shoots develop better immunity to various changes - location, soil, temperature. But there is also a minus - the risk of frostbite. In autumn, it is worth taking care of the plant more carefully.

Grapes should be planted in well-lit places, for example, west or south.

The soil must have a large amount of nutrients for better development, it is better if the soil has a high level of rockiness. Such soil will help to avoid stagnant water and will contribute to the rapid entry of oxygen to the root system.

Selection of seedlings

Planting material - green shoots and cuttings - is chosen carefully, it must be of high quality and healthy.

Seedling Features:

• if the shoot is annual, then the root system should be white. If the color of the root cut is yellow or brown, the plant will not take root and will soon dry out;
• eyes should look fresh and healthy. If they fall off, the plant is sick.
• the vine, the stalk of the seedling must be moist, and also release juice. The cut of the vine must be green.

The day before planting, planting material is placed in a container with water. To do this, 3 eyes are removed on the shoots. Growth stimulants and honey are added to the water for better development of seedlings.

Planting density of grapes

Seating arrangements are affected by:

• grade;
• the soil;
• location;
• climatic conditions, in general and for each region individually;
• method and time of disembarkation;
• the number of seedlings.

Distance between rows

When choosing a distance for planting grapes, there are such types of arrangement of rows in the vineyard:

• high - bush - from 3 m²;
• medium - bush - up to 3 m²;
• moderate - bush - up to 2 m².

For the correct choice of row location, both technological and mechanical factors are taken into account. With the help of neighboring shrubs, you can create shaded places that will serve as protection from burns.

The width of the rows for each of the varieties is different:

• white variety - if there is a lot of light, then the berries will be sour and the aroma will become less expressive. When planting grapes, the distance between the bushes should be the same as from the ground to the leaves;
• red - there should be a lot of light so that the fruits are sweeter.

The density is calculated for each variety individually, taking into account the ratio of leaf height and the gap between plants. On average, 3 m is left between shrubs.

Distance between bushes

The distances between grape seedlings are about 3 m if the species is vigorous.

If you plant grapes at close distances, this will lead to different consequences:

• reduced development;
• weak immunity;
• low yield.

Wine varieties are planted from each other by 1.5 -1.7 m. Dessert - from each other 1.4-1.5 m. The trellis can be of different heights (up to approximately 1.8 m.).