Methods for laying linoleum on a wooden floor. Linoleum flooring in an apartment and a house: floor preparation, cutting, fastening

By itself, the topic "Tiled work" obliges us to provide for the case when the tiled floor does not suit you for some reason. For example, do you think it is too cold... Or too hard... Or... In a word, is it worth listing all the possible options? You don't like tiles on the floor, and that's it! Therefore, we must also talk about such a method of flooring as laying linoleum. By the way, linoleum floors with well-chosen linoleum in color and pattern look very modern and organically combined, for example, with walls lined with glazed tiles in the bathroom or in the kitchen. One way or another, we will have to tell a little about how to make linoleum flooring. To cover the floors with linoleum is one of the most simple ways floor cladding, in addition, linoleum industry produces a wide variety of different colors and drawings, which will allow you to choose the most suitable shade for your interior. Coatings made of these materials are durable, elastic, wear-resistant and hygienic. They are laid after the completion of all finishing work in the room on a flat, hard and dry base. The most widespread are polyvinyl chloride linoleums, the main component of which is polyvinyl chloride resin, as well as glyphital, coloxilin and rubber linoleums.

Warm floors with heat and sound insulating layers or from linoleums with a heat and sound insulating underlay are laid in rooms with a long stay of people in them. In rooms with a short stay of people, floors made of baseless linoleum are laid immediately on a cement-sand base. The surface of the base, prepared for laying linoleum, is checked with a two-meter rail. Gaps between the base and the rail are allowed no more than 2 mm. Individual surface irregularities are leveled with polymer-cement or latex-cement mastic. The bases for laying linoleum are prepared in the same way as when laying PVC tiles. Linoleum is delivered rolled up in rolls with the face inside. It is preferable to store and transport rolls over long distances in a vertical position so that there are fewer wrinkles and waves on the linoleum panels.

A roll of linoleum is kept in horizontal position for about 1-2 days in a room prepared for flooring. Then the roll is rolled out (if possible, it is better completely) and the cloth is allowed to mature for several days until the waviness disappears completely, so that its lower side fits snugly against the surface of the base. Then the panel is cut out and started laying. Laying starts from the window so that the longitudinal joints are less noticeable. in the halls and long corridors linoleum is cut along the entire length of the room.

The cutting of the panels is carried out at the installation site, taking into account the size and configuration of the room. The transverse joints of the panels are placed apart in places where, as they say, a person’s foot will be the least likely to step, so as not to touch the edges of the cut canvases with their feet and not tear off the already laid linoleum from the floor. The edges of the rolled panels are cut along the contour of the room. To obtain a straight and even cut line, the knife or cutter is moved along the ruler, firmly pressed against the linoleum. Plywood is placed under the joints of the panels so that the knife blade does not dull prematurely. Cutting panels at a right angle is carried out along a square with a side length of at least 1 m. You should strive to ensure that the joints of the panels you get as few as possible. In small rooms it is better to do without them at all. However, in any case, you will have to cut the panel in those places where the wall is not even, but has ledges. The linoleum carpet in rooms with protruding sections of the walls is cut through after preliminary marking, after which the extra parts of the panel are cut off with a ruler along the ruler.

The panels, cut to the size of the room, are laid out dry. Their adjacent edges are overlapped so that one panel is 10-5 mm on the other, and then both are simultaneously cut through along the ruler. This results in a neat and inconspicuous seam at the junction. Cloths laid at doorways, thresholds, niches, columns are cut most carefully. If the edges of the linoleum are covered with a plinth, the protruding parts are measured, the panel is marked out and the marked contour is cut out. When fitting the panel to the door trim and to places not covered by the plinth, the adjacent edge of the linoleum is pressed tightly against the trim and the contour of the protrusion is cut out. The cutting is performed several times, achieving gradually dense, without gaps, fitting the edges.

Cutting and fitting panels are taking into account the economical use of material. To reduce waste, linoleum laid in corridors and rooms is joined along the line of longitudinal walls. The joint between the parquet, for example, floors in the room and the linoleum laid in the corridor, is located at the threshold door frame. For laying linoleum floors, the following tools and fixtures are used: - cutting tools: knife for cutting panels, knife with replaceable blades and a special knife for cutting the edges of the panels when they are joined, a device with a knife for accurately cutting the edges of the linoleum panels (Fig. 39); - devices for applying adhesive mastics: wide and narrow notched trowels for applying mastics under panels and under the edges of linoleum panels (Fig. 40); - tools for rolling: a roller roller for rolling the joints of panels after they have been glued, a manual roller for rolling panels glued to the base.

Rice. 39. .

Rice. 40. .

Sticking linoleum on a fabric base and baseless. Remember that you can not glue linoleum in a cold and wet room. The air temperature in the room when gluing linoleum should be at least 15 ° C, and the humidity of the base - no more than 5%. Linoleums on a fabric base (polyvinyl chloride and alkyd) are glued on the cold bituminous Biskey mastic. The base is pre-primed with mastic from bitumen and gasoline, mixed in a ratio of 1: (2-3). The linoleum cloth, laid out dry before the sticker, without moving from its place, is folded back up to the middle of its length. A mastic layer of 0.6-0.8 mm is applied to the surface of the base under the bent panel with a notched trowel. Stripes 10-15 cm wide under the line of joints, except for the sides adjacent to the walls, are left ungreased.

30-40 minutes after the evaporation of the volatile solvent, the bent part of the cloth is applied to the base smeared with mastic. Linoleum is pressed tightly to the base and smoothed with a piece of burlap from the middle to the edges, removing air from under it. Then the glued panel is rolled with a hand roller, this is necessary in order for you to get a good quality of the laid coating. In the same order, glue the other half of the panel. After 2-3 days after gluing, the linoleum is cut and the edges of adjacent panels are glued. At the joints of overlapped panels, a ruler is applied and both edges are cut through to the base with a sharp knife (Fig. 41). Carefully peel back the non-glued edges and clean them back side and foundation. After removing the trimmings, coat the base thin layer bituminous mastic. After holding, the edges are pressed to the base, rubbed with burlap and rolled with a roller.

Rice. 41. .

Baseless linoleums (polyvinylchloride and rubber) are glued on mastics KN-2 and KN-3. The panels cut, aged and cut along the contour of the room are taken out to another room or rolled up into a roll with the front side inward to the middle of the entire length. On the released base, a KN-2 or KN-3 mastic is applied with a rubber or plastic spatula with a layer of 0.5 mm. Mastic is applied around the perimeter of the room, and then with wide arcuate movements on the rest of the surface. 4-6 hours after the evaporation of the volatile solvent, the base is covered with mastic a second time. The exposure time of the mastic is determined by tack. The back side of the linoleum is covered with mastic KN-2 or KN-3 approximately 15-20 minutes before gluing the panel. It is applied with a plastic or wooden spatula on a strip (thin layer), so that the layer thickness does not exceed 0.2-0.3 mm. Along the edges of the panel, non-smeared strips 6-8 cm wide are left for the subsequent cutting of the joints.

On the mastic, dried to a tack, lay the lining of fibreboard so that the back side of the adjusted panels does not come into contact with the base during alignment. Glue the panels to the same place where they lay before applying the mastic. After finishing the fit, the linings are pulled out and the edge of the panel is pressed against the base so that there are no air bubbles in the coating. The back side of the glued carpet is pressed tightly to the base by hand. Other linoleum panels are glued in the same order. About 2-3 days after gluing the linoleum, the edges are cut.

Rubber linoleum is cut along the upper edge of the panel. To do this, put a risk along the superimposed edge of the linoleum. The edge of the bottom panel is cut off with a special knife. For the accuracy of the cut with a hook, the blades cut through the linoleum from the back, guiding the blade along the pencil risk. The cut edges are bent, smeared with KN-2 and KN-3 mastic and after 10-15 minutes they are pressed to the base, pressing with a roller. If the edges lag behind, they are pressed with a load. After gluing baseless linoleums on KN-2 or KN-3 mastics, spots may remain on the surface of the coating due to insufficient curing or too thick mastic layer. The mastic is immediately cleaned from the floor surface with a rag soaked in gasoline or turpentine. The surface of the laid floors must be even and horizontal. Gaps between the coating and the two-meter control rail are allowed no more than 2 mm, deviations of the seams from a straight line are not more than 10 mm per 10 m of length. The joints of the glued panels must be even, tight and straight, without ledges between the edges, swelling of the coating, raised edges, non-glued places, stains, scratches and other defects on the front surface of the floor. To avoid contamination or damage to the coating, linoleum floors are covered with thick paper, gluing it with a paste.

What is linoleum?

Linoleum is a rolled polymer floor covering. There are linoleums with and without a base. Baseless coating has a thickness of 1.2 to 1.6 mm, so it requires an even subfloor for installation. This is inexpensive material, it is not afraid of water and is recommended for floors in kitchens and bathrooms. Sometimes a protective layer is applied to the surface of such linoleum, which does not wear out.

Two main types of backing are used: foamed polymer materials and fabric. Linoleum foam base is stronger and more durable. Its thickness is from 2 to 3.5 mm. It cleans up well.

For the fabric base, natural or synthetic jute or felt is taken, on which a dense polymer fabric with a printed pattern is glued. The thickness of the coating can reach 5 mm. Linoleums on a fabric basis provide good sound and heat insulation, they are soft and elastic. Such linoleums do not tolerate moisture and are not suitable for bathrooms and kitchens.

What are the main technical characteristics of most linoleums?

These characteristics include: resistance to abrasion and indentation, density, water resistance, flammability, heat and sound insulation properties, color indicators, antistatic and impact resistance. chemical substances. Different types of linoleums differ greatly in these indicators.

How are linoleums classified according to the binder material of the polymer layer?

According to the binder material of the polymer layer, five groups can be distinguished: natural, polyvinyl chloride, glyptal, or alkyd, colloxylin and rubber. Natural and PVC linoleums are produced both without a base and on it.

Natural material contains natural ingredients.

Polyvinyl chloride material elevated temperature gives 2% shrinkage and has a specific smell, which disappears over time.

The glyphthalic group has a tissue base. Better than previous materials, insulate sound and heat. Over time, after laying, the strips acquire the ability to shorten and expand.

Colloxylin and rubber coatings are not recommended for use in apartments.

What types of linoleums are most in demand?

The greatest demand is for polyvinyl chloride linoleum on a heat and sound insulating underlay, linoleum on a fabric underlay, without underlay, alkyd linoleum and rubber relin.

Thick canvases on a fabric or foam base hide minor floor defects and do not require leveling. They have good soundproof properties dampen vibrations and insulate the floor. They cannot be used in kitchens and bathrooms, as these coatings do not tolerate moisture well.

Single-layer coatings must be laid on a flat base. They are waterproof and easy to clean.

Coatings with special protective layer have a long service life, they do not leave marks from heels or furniture.

What is polyvinyl chloride linoleum?

Polyvinyl chloride linoleum is a floor covering, which includes a polymer compound of chlorine. Since this is a harmful substance, such linoleum must have a hygiene certificate confirming its harmlessness to humans. The cost of PVC linoleum is low, so it is popular with consumers. Currently, over 80% of all linoleum produced in the world falls on PVC coatings.

Depending on the composition and production technology of the PVC linoleum sheet, it can be homogeneous and heterogeneous.

Homogeneous linoleum is a canvas that is uniform throughout its thickness. The thickness of homogeneous coatings is usually 1.5–3 mm. These are waterproof and hygienic linoleums. High-strength varieties of such a coating are not inferior to laminate in terms of wear resistance. Such linoleum is used in kitchens, hallways, etc.

Because in pure form polyvinyl chloride - the material is quite expensive, then limestone, kaolin or talc are added to the linoleum mass. Usually linoleums with high content fillers are cheaper.

Linoleum sometimes consists of several layers. The basis of the material is fiberglass. On the front side, it is impregnated with PVC paste, and then it is applied durable layer another polymer. Then a pattern is printed on this surface, which sometimes uses up to six colors. Then the paints are fixed on top with a transparent polymer up to 0.15 mm thick.

From the wrong side, a jute, fabric, polyester or foam substrate is attached to the fiberglass. The best material is the one in which the substrate is applied mechanically. The foamed substrate has the best operational properties, since when heated or cooled, it changes in size in the same way as the front layer, so deformation does not occur.

Drawing on the surface of linoleum can imitate parquet, ceramic tiles, as well as different types of stone. On sale there are both monophonic linoleums, and multi-colored with an ornament.

What is known about natural linoleum?

Natural linoleum has a number of unique properties.

Natural linoleum consists only of natural components. This is an environmentally friendly coating. It is made of resin. pine trees, linseed oil, cork oak bark powder, limestone powder and natural dyes. Natural jute fabric is used as a basis. Such material has a long service life of at least 30 years.

After laying, the material does not change its dimensions. It is not combustible, does not fade in the sun, is resistant to weak acids and alcohols. It has good thermal conductivity, which allows it to be used on underfloor heating. Because this material contains linseed oil, then such linoleum has a strong bactericidal effect, which persists throughout the entire period of operation. Bacteria do not breed on such linoleum. natural finish easy to clean from dust.

There is a wide variety of colors and patterns of natural linoleum. For example, coatings with a marbled pattern, multi-color pattern or plain. New developments make it possible to imitate not only the printed, but also the structural pattern of marble.

The thickness of linoleum is from 2 to 3.2 mm. In residential premises, two-millimeter canvases are usually used. The width of the roll is two meters.

Its disadvantage is that it is not very elastic and cracks easily. Therefore, when transporting and laying natural linoleum, special care is required. Such a coating, due to the limestone included in its composition, does not tolerate the effects of alkalis, so it cannot be cleaned with detergents.

What preliminary training must be carried out before laying linoleum on the floor?

The air temperature in the room where the linoleum will be laid must be at least 15 ° C. Humidity conditions must be strictly adhered to. for panels floors humidity by weight should be no more than 4%, for screeds based on cement binder - no more than 5%, gypsum - no more than 3%, for screeds made of chipboard - no more than 12%. high humidity base causes peeling of the coating and destroys the underlying linoleum.

The base surface must be flat. It is possible to lay linoleum only after the completion of all indoor repair work. After cleaning, the base is primed using dispersion glue and mastic diluted with water, as well as glue and mastic based on bitumen, resins and rubbers dissolved in gasoline or solvents. It should be noted that the materials of primers are homogeneous with adhesives and mastics intended for gluing linoleum.

Rollers or sprayers are used to apply primers. The primer is made towards the doors.

Linoleum rolls must be kept indoors for two days at a temperature of at least 15 ° C for acclimatization. After that, roll out the linoleum on the prepared base and let it lie down for another two days until it is completely leveled.

What types of glue and mastic are used for gluing linoleum?

For different types of linoleums, different types of glue and mastic are used. For example, for linoleum on a heat-insulating substrate, dispersion adhesives are used (bustilat, humilaks, AK, ADM-K); for linoleum on a fabric base, bituminous mastics are used - "Biskey" and bitumen-synthetic glue, as well as dispersion adhesives; for linoleum without a base, mastics based on synthetic resins and rubbers are used.

What is the technology for applying adhesives and mastics?

The technology for applying adhesives and mastics depends on the adhesive or mastic used. Dispersion adhesives and mastics are applied with a notched trowel in a layer 0.6–0.7 mm thick; based on bitumen - with a layer of 0.4-0.5 mm; based on synthetic resins and rubbers - 0.3–0.4 mm thick.

Due to the flammability, adhesives and mastics based on synthetic resins and rubbers cannot be applied with metal spatulas.

What determines the methods of gluing linoleum to the base?

Methods for gluing linoleum to the base also depend on the adhesive or mastic used.

If dispersion adhesives and mastics are used, then linoleum can be laid immediately after they are applied to the base; if adhesives and mastics based on bitumen are used - after 15-20 minutes. Adhesives and mastics based on synthetic resins and rubbers must be kept until “tack free” in order to evaporate the excess solvent.

What tools are required to work with linoleum?

To work with linoleum, you need spatulas, a knife, a ruler, a hammer, etc.

The knife should be well sharpened so that it cuts the linoleum, and does not tear its edges.

A ruler is needed to trim the edges of the linoleum. Long (2–3 m) and short (1 m) rulers are used. They can be wooden or metal. The width of the wooden rulers is 50-100 mm, the thickness is 15-25 mm. A narrow metal ruler can be stuffed onto a wooden one.

A notched trowel is necessary for leveling the mastic applied to the base of the floor. Excess mastic is shifted with a spatula blade, and only the one that passes between the cloves remains on the base. First, the mastic takes the form of even grooves, and then spreads out, forming an even thin layer with a thickness of 1 to 1.5 mm. Notched trowel is used only in cases where the mastic has the ability to spread.

If the mastic does not spread, then it is applied with ordinary wooden or metal spatulas as evenly as possible.

How to lay linoleum correctly?

The most reliable is the laying of linoleum on adhesive materials. Before applying the mastic, the surface must be cleaned of dirt, then the back side of the linoleum should be primed the day before the sticker.

To keep the linoleum better, the mastic is applied not only directly to the floor, but also to the back of the linoleum. The joints are pre-cut along the ruler. Cutting the edges of the joined linoleum panels can be done manually using special knives. This is done with one cut through both panels, after which the edges of the panels are glued to the base in the same way as the panels, followed by rolling.

You can stick linoleum without a primer. The base and the back of the linoleum are smeared with mastic, except for the edge. Then the linoleum is laid and pressed from the middle to the edges to squeeze out excess air and mastic.

It takes 8-10 days for the final gluing of linoleum. If swelling suddenly appears, then you need to put boards on the linoleum, and place the load on top. After seven days, you can start cutting and attaching edges.

After cutting the edges, they are turned away, the base and the back side are smeared with mastic, then one edge is glued first, then the other. The glued edges are rolled. From above, you can place the load until the linoleum is completely glued.

What is cold welding?

Cold welding of joined panels of baseless or fabric-based linoleum can be carried out at home. Such welding is performed after cutting the joints. Welding consists in applying panels to the ends of the joined edges special composition providing a strong adhesive bond.

To do this, the pre-cut edges of the linoleum panels are bent to the border of the glued sections and glued along the joint line to the underlying layer with an adhesive (on both sides) tape about 100 mm wide. Then apply adhesive mastic or glue with a spatula to the areas of the underlying layer between the glued linoleum and adhesive tape (if there is no adhesive tape, then glue and mastic are applied to the entire surface of the underlying layer and reverse side linoleum). One of the bent panels is lowered and pressed tightly against the base, and a thin layer of composition for cold welding is applied to the end of the linoleum edge. Then another bent panel is lowered, pressed tightly against the base and at the same time the ends of the joined edges are compressed, making sure that the seam is completely filled with the composition. After that, the seam is thoroughly wiped, removing excess composition from the surface of the linoleum. Joints obtained by cold welding are strong and invisible.

What defects occur when laying linoleum flooring?

Mastics Low quality, insufficiently thorough preparation of the floor base, laying linoleum on a wet base, poor smoothing of linoleum, etc. lead to various defects in linoleum coatings - swelling, waviness, peeling off from the base, etc.

Bloating. These defects are formed as a result of the use of improperly prepared or heavily thickened factory-made mastics or from non-compliance with the terms of drying the bases and aging the laid linoleum coatings.

For example, alkyd linoleum, which has cork or wood flour in its composition, strongly absorbs the moisture present in the base, swells and increases in size. Mastic, applied to a not completely dry base, loosely glues linoleum, it easily lags behind and swells.

In addition, blisters are formed when mastic is applied in very thin layers (less than 0.5 mm) in places where there is no mastic at all or its layer exceeds 2 mm (mastic dries for a long time). Linoleum, subjected to deformation during drying, breaks off from the base or blistering forms on it.

In order to avoid swelling, the mastic is applied with an equal thickness layer over the entire base, the linoleum is well smoothed, and if necessary, a load is placed on it.

Blisters correct in the following way. Accumulated air is released from the swollen place by piercing the linoleum with an awl. Linoleum is covered with paper and smoothed well with a hot iron. This is done only if the linoleum is laid on hot bituminous or rubber bituminous mastic which melts when heated.

If the linoleum still swells in places, then the swollen place is cut with a knife and the same solvent is injected under the linoleum with a syringe, on which the adhesive mastic was prepared. The mastic softens, and the linoleum is carefully smoothed and must be loaded.

If, after that, the linoleum does not stick, it means that there is no mastic under it, and it is added through the undercut with a thin stick.

Sometimes when rolling out a roll of linoleum, swollen places are found on it. Canvases from this linoleum are cut in such a way that the swellings fall on the edges, where they are easier to fix.

If the linoleum peels off almost the entire base, it is carefully removed, cleaned of adhesive mastic and laid out in a spacious room with the back side up.

The base is also cleaned of mastic, defects are corrected and primed. Linoleum is laid on the dried primer as usual.

Wavy. If linoleum rolls, folded in bulk, were stored like this long time, then they take the form of an ellipse. Such rolls are rolled out and the linoleum is allowed to mature. If after 10-12 days the waves do not disappear, then the linoleum is placed on a flat base and ironed through the paper with a hot iron.

Even better to cut right amount canvases, lay them so that the largest ones are at the bottom, and the smallest ones are at the top, and load them for 7-10 days. During this time, the linoleum will straighten out and be smooth after the sticker.

Currently, about half of the total floor area in newly built residential and public buildings covered with linoleum.

The use of this type of coating gives a significant effect only if they are properly applied and properly maintained during the period of operation. Even the most beautiful and high quality floor material will never look good or serve you well if it is not properly laid. Defects and marriage floor covering are formed mainly due to improper installation, poor-quality bottom layer or improper care. You should not start laying floors without becoming familiar with the entire laying process and without making sure that the underlying layer and working conditions meet the requirements for them.

To ensure that the new floor retains its beauty and its qualities on long years, it is necessary to use progressive laying methods, rational tools, fixtures and mechanisms that can significantly improve the quality and productivity of work on the installation of floors made of polymeric materials.

Requirements for grounds

The quality of linoleum coatings, their durability and appearance depend on the bases. All bases are subject to the same requirements: they must be strong, rigid, without cracks, even, smooth, dry and clean.

To ensure sufficient strength cement-sand screeds and leveling polymer cement layers must be made from a solution with a compressive strength of at least 150 kgf / cm2, lightweight concrete screeds - at least 75 kgf / cm2, concrete preparation - at least 200 kgf / cm2. Boardwalks should be solid and made of tongue-and-groove boards. It is not allowed to make coatings directly on asphalt screeds. It is necessary to stick a fibreboard or plywood as an underlying layer on the surface of the screed. Cracks, potholes and open seams in the base, as well as gaps between the base of the floor and the walls, are not allowed.

Since linoleum is elastic, even a slight unevenness on the base is copied on its surface, which worsens general form coating and accelerate its wear. Linoleum, laid on an uneven, bumpy base, becomes unusable after 2-3 years. Therefore, before proceeding with the laying of linoleum, you need to check the base for evenness by applying a two-meter rail to it. The gaps between the rail and the base should be smoothly transitioning and not more than 2 mm. The smoothness of the base is achieved by grouting or smoothing reinforced concrete floor slabs, screeds and self-leveling mixture.

One of the main conditions for the durability of linoleum coating is the presence of a dry base. The moisture content in the screed based on cement binder should be no more than 5%, gypsum - no more than 3%, in concrete preparation and reinforced concrete floor slabs - no more than 6%.

In rooms where linoleum floors are installed, the air temperature at floor level should not be lower than 15 ° C. At a lower level, linoleum is poorly aged and does not adhere to the base, maintaining rigidity and elasticity for a long time.

Linoleum is a moisture-resistant material, therefore, moisture remaining in an insufficiently dried substrate cannot evaporate for a long time, as a result of which the adhesion strength is impaired, and some types of organic adhesive mastics may decompose and cause peeling of the coating or the formation of wrinkles and bubbles. In addition, an insufficiently dried base causes rotting and destruction of the linoleum fabric base and the fiberboard subbase.

Foundations must be arranged in advance so that they can dry well in vivo. Various types of bases are dried in different dates: cement-sand and lightweight concrete screeds and monolithic concrete- within 4-6 weeks, leveling layer - 2-3 weeks.

It is allowed to stick linoleum on the boardwalk only one year after the building is put into operation; wet boardwalks, gradually drying out, warp, stretch and tear the glued coatings. The maximum allowable moisture content of wood and fiberboards is not more than 12%.

To prevent rotting of wooden bases, adhesive mastics and linoleum in basements and in floors on the ground are necessary good waterproofing concrete preparation and underground ventilation. To ventilate the underground in the corners of the room, install ventilation grates. AT wooden floors they should not be covered.

The laying of the coating begins with a thorough cleaning of the base. The surface of the screed is cleaned of layers of mortar, debris and dust.

When laying linoleums (except for rubber ones) on surfaces located at an angle to each other, the bending radius of the material should not be less than 50 mm. Otherwise, cracks will form on its surface. To avoid this, the corners are treated with the material from which the base is made, in the form of a convex or concave quarter fillet.

Rice. 45.: 1 - reinforced concrete floor slab; 2 - cement-sand screed with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa (150 kgf / cm2), thickness when laying on the floor - 20 mm; 3 - a layer of self-leveling mixture with a thickness of 10-15 mm; 4 - wood-fiber semi-solid board 6 mm thick; 5 - coating 3-6 mm thick; 6 - soundproof continuous tape gasket 100-120 mm wide made of elastic materials; 7- wooden log 40x80 mm after 400 mm (distance between axes) with a board thickness of 29 mm or 600 mm with a board thickness of 37 mm; 8 - edged board 80x19 mm

Rice. 46.: 1 - crushed stone, rammed into the soil of the base to a depth of 40-50 mm; 2 - concrete underlying layer of class B 22.5 (M300) with a thickness of 80 mm; 3 - waterproofing from two layers of hydroisol, hydrostekloizol or roofing material; 4 - screed made of concrete not lower than class B 12.5 (M150) with a thickness of 30 mm or mortar not lower than M150; 5 - coating 3-6 mm thick; 6 - leveling layer of cement-sand mortar strength not less than 15 MPa (150 kgf / cm2) thickness 10-15 mm; 7 - semi-hard fiberboard 6-8 mm thick or moisture-resistant plywood; 8 - brick or concrete columns not lower than M75; 9 - a lining of two layers of roofing felt or roofing material with edges released by 30-40 mm, fixed with nails to a wooden lining; 10 - wooden spacer 200x150x25 mm; 11 - wooden log 40x80 mm; 12 - grooved floor board

Linoleum floors are arranged on reinforced concrete floor slabs (Fig. 45), monolithic screeds based on cement or gypsum binder, lightweight concrete, prefabricated screeds made of chipboard (see fig. 23) and fiberboard (see fig. 24), moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheets (see fig. 5), along logs covered with grooved or edged boards (see fig. .19, 20).

Floor structures on the ground with a concrete underlayment, brick or concrete columns are shown in fig. 46.

Preparation and cutting of linoleum

The process of laying linoleum consists of cutting, gluing, rolling and cutting edges.

Rolls stored in winter in cold warehouses must be brought into a warm room 2-3 days before cutting so that the linoleum warms up. The heated rolls are unpacked and then transferred to a holding room, where 4-5 days before laying they are rolled out in a spacious and warm room and the panels are stacked on top of each other. During this time, the linoleum will straighten, and the residual stresses in it will disappear.

Linoleum floors can be performed after the completion of plumbing, electrical installation and finishing work before the last painting of the walls or pasting them with wallpaper. In this case, the room should be dried, the humidity in it should not exceed 60%. For cutting and sticking linoleum should be considered normal temperature at floor level 10-15°C. At this temperature, linoleum becomes elastic, it is easier to lay, it adheres to the base more firmly, and the mastic dries faster.

Cutting linoleum is a responsible operation in the construction of floors and is entrusted to highly skilled workers. At the same time, it is important to correctly position the panels, rationally cut out all the material in order to avoid significant waste and transverse (end) joints.

Panels of one-color and marble-like linoleums are recommended to be laid, as a rule, perpendicular to the outer walls, in the direction of the light; with this arrangement of panels, the seams become less noticeable.

In lobbies, halls, foyers and other similar premises, they make a combined coating, alternate panels different color or cut linoleum of different colors into stripes, squares, rectangles and then lay them in various color combination. It's very revitalizing interior view premises. The direction of the panels and the pattern of the coating is determined by the author of the building project or indicated in the project, depending on the layout and general finishing premises.

In the corridors, the panels are placed along, but in some cases, such as when laying marble-like linoleums in two different colors, they can also be laid across the room in order to achieve the desired color effect.

Linoleum is cut as follows: the roll is carefully rolled out in a spacious room, avoiding sharp bends, then cut along the ruler with a knife into panels of the required length with a margin for shrinkage.

The panels are laid out in a room in such a way that the edges of adjacent panels overlap each other by a width of 15 cm. This is done so that during the subsequent trimming of the panel, one edge can be adjusted to the other. Then the edges of the panels are cut to the protruding parts of the walls, partitions and equipment. This operation is performed in four ways.

According to the first method cutting and fitting of the panel to all protruding parts are carried out at the place where the linoleum is laid. The panel is pressed with one edge to the ledge and cut out along its contour.

Second way. Having cut off the panel of the required length, you need to lay it close to the wall or baseboard. Then, using a ruler, mark the contour of the wall on linoleum. After cutting along the marked lines, the panel will be fitted to the wall. This method is especially recommended in places where careful fitting is required closely, without gaps.

Third way. In a room with a complex shape in terms of plan, cutting the edges of the panels is done by preliminary marking on the panel of all the protruding parts that need to be cut out.

Fourth way. When laying linoleum at the locations of ladders, pipes, hatches, columns and various equipment, holes of the required size are cut out in it, for which a paper or cardboard template is used. In these cases, the cutouts should be closer to the junction of the linoleum panels or where they do not go much.

If the width of the room is not a multiple of the width of the linoleum panels, it is necessary to cut the outermost panel along (the waste can be used in other rooms). The excess is then cut off without a ruler, with a preliminary marking of the cut line with a cord rubbed with chalk.

Transverse (end) joints are made in places where they do not go much, and they avoid doing in places where water is often spilled. In general, end joints should be avoided.

If there are three or four pieces of linoleum in rolls, the lengths of individual pieces should be selected depending on the size of the area to be covered.

If one roll or piece is not enough for flooring in the room, it is necessary to look at the following rolls in order to select the missing piece of linoleum of the same shade.

The cut panels must be kept in a rolled state until the sticker is applied for at least two days so that they straighten even better and stabilize in size. It should also be borne in mind that linoleums sometimes change their dimensions after gluing for a long time.

Sticking linoleum

After checking the base for moisture and horizontal surface, you can start laying the coating. In order to professionally, with high quality and minimal cost to lay the coating (especially commercial), it is necessary to use special tools. Required for cutting special knives with interchangeable blades: trapezoidal blades are used for marking, and hook-shaped blades for the final cut.

After the coating is cut into sheets of the required size and shape, you can start laying them.

When laying domestic PVC flooring in residential areas where one or two pieces of flooring are used, gluing is not required. The edges with this installation are covered around the perimeter with skirting boards, and the seams are glued with double-sided tape.

Residential flooring should only be fully bonded when using more than two pieces of material and where the movement of heavy objects may cause swelling. Full gluing is also recommended for rooms with an area of ​​more than 20 m2 in the presence of movable furniture (tables, chairs, etc.). Commercial coatings should always be fully bonded.

When gluing, it is necessary to avoid getting air under the coating. It is impossible to lay the material close to the walls, it is necessary to leave a small gap. In order for the glue to be applied evenly and exactly in the amount that is necessary for sticking each specific type of coating, it is necessary to use notched trowels with replaceable blades. At the same time, due to various shapes and the spatula tooth pitch provides the required adhesive consumption.

Gluing glyptal and PVC linoleum on a fabric basis is the most responsible process. Glyphthalic (alkyd) linoleum consists of jute-kenaf fabric covered with a mass, which includes oxidized vegetable oils, glyptal resin, wood and cork flour.

Polyvinyl chloride linoleum is available in three types: fabric-based, felt-based and baseless. Baseless PVC linoleum is produced in two types: single-layer and two-layer, the lower lining layer of which differs from the upper decorative one by a low content of polyvinyl chloride resin.

Linoleums of all kinds are glued over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cloth. With continuous gluing, the goal is to give the floor covering (in the event of a rupture or puncture) complete water tightness, as well as to avoid swelling of the linoleum. In addition, any change in humidity affects the laid linoleum. This can be excluded only when applying mastic to the entire area.

There are several ways to stick linoleum.

First way. The cloth is carefully, without moving from its place, folded back up to the middle, sweep dust and accidentally caught debris with a brush. An adhesive mastic is applied to the base from the middle with a notched trowel, leaving a strip 10-12 cm wide on each side of the panel, except for the side adjacent to the wall, not smeared. The thickness of the applied layer of mastic depends on the type of base and ranges from 0.5-1 mm. For better adhesion of linoleum to the base, it is recommended to apply the mastic with a spatula on the back side of the panel with a thin layer “on the strip”. Following this, the panels are placed on a base smeared with mastic.

Second way. The panel is tightly and evenly rolled up into a roll with the front side inward to the middle of the room. After applying the mastic in the above way, they begin to stick the linoleum by rolling the roll onto the mastic layer, and this operation is performed by rocking the roll back and forth several times so that the panel fits better to the mastic. The second half of the panel is glued after the first, repeating all the operations.

The glued panel is smoothed with burlap from the middle to the edges in order to remove the remaining air and achieve a tighter fit to the base. After that, it is advisable to use the ice rink. Linoleum smoothing is necessary condition good quality coatings.

If, after aging, bubbles and waves still remain on the linoleum (due to a factory defect or careless storage), it is necessary to outline these places with chalk before sticking, and after sticking put a load on them for two to three days.

In case of delay separate parts linoleum from the base during the gluing process, they should be pressed more strongly (put a sandbag or other load).

Rice. 47.: 1 - knife for cutting and cutting linoleum; 2 - steel ruler; 3 - linoleum cloth; 4 - steel ruler or plywood strip - lining under the cutting joint; 5 - glue; 6 - a layer of cement-sand mortar; 7 - floor slab

In order to avoid damage to the front side of the linoleum during gluing, it is necessary to use soft shoes and place thick paper under the loads. Soiled places on the surface of linoleum are immediately cleaned with a cloth soaked in gasoline or turpentine.

Two days after gluing the linoleum, when the mastic dries, they start cutting and gluing the edges of adjacent panels. It is very important to ensure that the edges are trimmed carefully; gaps in the joints of linoleum are not allowed. For this purpose, both overlapped edges of the linoleum are cut simultaneously with a sharp knife along the ruler. The method of cutting the linoleum joint is shown in fig. 47; a metal ruler is placed along the joint, one end is pressed with a knee, and the other with a hand, then several cuts are made along the ruler with a knife. The uncut places found in the lower panel are cut. It is necessary to strive to simultaneously cut through both edges with one deep cut. This operation is easier to perform with a linoleum cutter. Such trimming techniques provide a tight and even abutment of the joined edges.

When cutting joints, the tiler with synthetic materials should always have a knife sharpener on hand (than sharper knife the easier it is for them to work).

When cutting on concrete, cement-sand bases, it is recommended (in order to avoid blunting the end of the knife) to place a two-meter steel ruler 0.8-1 mm thick, a sheet of plywood or hard fiberboard under the joint.

After cutting the joints and removing the trimmings, the edges of the linoleum begin to be glued, for which they are carefully lifted and the back of the linoleum and the base are cleaned of debris and dust, then rubber-bitumen mastic is evenly spread on the base with a small spatula. After that, the edges of the linoleum are pressed, rubbed with burlap, rolled with a roller until completely leveled. To ensure complete adherence of the edges of the linoleum to the base, a load is placed along the joint (seam). The edges of linoleum at the joints should not be nailed.

In the case of laying short-length linoleum panels and the inevitability of end (transverse) joints, a straight joint must be replaced with a zigzag one. Before you cut the teeth and fit them, you need to stick most cloths. When laying marble-like linoleum, the end joint can be made wavy.

To avoid scratches, damage and contamination of the front side of the linoleum during further finishing work(for example, the last painting of wall surfaces), the surface of the linoleum should be sealed with wrapping paper.

Sticking rubber linoleum

Rubber linoleum - relin - is a two-layer material, upper layer which is made of colored, and the lower one is made of ordinary rubber. For gluing the rubber coating, special glue or coumaron-rubber mastic is used. It is applied with a metal spatula both on the base and on the rubber coating with a thin layer.

The process of gluing rubber linoleum consists of: preparing the base, applying mastic, sticking panels, trimming and gluing edges.

Substrate surface preparation is one of the most important operations providing high quality rubber floor stickers. It consists in cleaning the base from paints, grease and oil stains. If the base is not good enough, it is puttied. The prepared base is covered with a layer of mastic using a metal spatula. Then this surface is left to dry for 4-6 hours, depending on the temperature in the room and the possibility of ventilation.

At the same time prepare for the sticker and rubber linoleum. In a spacious room, cut panels are laid reverse side up and cover with mastic. The mastic layer is allowed to dry for at least 10-20 minutes, after which the film still sticks to the finger, but does not leave mastic on it.

The smeared cloth is rolled up into a roll with the front side inward, then rolled out onto the base. So that the rubber flooring does not stick to the base during the fitting of the panel, calico or sickle is preliminarily spread on the base, which are removed after fitting. For good connection flooring with the base it is carefully smoothed.

The next roll is rolled out with an overlap, and a linen tape 10 cm wide is placed under the formed joint, which prevents the edges from sticking to the base. Rubber linoleum, pasted over the entire surface of the room, is cut in the same way as other types of linoleum. The cut edges of the flooring and the tape placed under the joint are then removed and, without additional smearing of the edges with mastic, are pressed to the base and smoothed.

Felt-based polyvinyl chloride linoleum flooring

Felt-based carpets are laid dry over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room on cement-sand screeds or reinforced concrete slabs interfloor floors.

Rolls of carpets, aged indoors at a temperature of 15°C, are rolled out and left for 2-3 days. Sandbags are placed on the wavy swellings on the surface of the carpets. After the rolled carpets lie tightly on the base, they are cut along the contour of the room. Do not forget that felt-based linoleum shrinks in both directions: when cutting this material, a small allowance of 5-10 mm is required. The cut carpets are kept in a free state for about 2 days. After that, the skirting boards are nailed to the walls. This is done in order to ensure free and uniform shrinkage of linoleum. Then the layout is nailed to the plinth.

Linoleum carpets of adjacent rooms in doorways are interconnected by welding or PVC thresholds, which are delivered to the object complete with a carpet. Thresholds are glued to reinforced concrete panels or cement-sand screeds with mastic. The edges of the linoleum are inserted into the grooves of the threshold without gluing, pre-cut along the upper protruding part of the threshold. As a result, the edges of the carpets of adjacent rooms can move in the grooves of the threshold during shrinkage (all this prevents the carpets from tearing at the welding points, from the formation of wrinkles near the doorways).

Welding joints of linoleum

To create the tightness of the seam, welding of the edges of linoleum is used. There are two options - hot and cold welding. The choice depends on two things.

First, from the type of linoleum. If this is a commercial coating, then welding can be both hot and cold. And if the coating is household, then only cold, otherwise not only the seams will melt, but also the floor surface adjacent to them.

Secondly, the choice depends on the complexity of the seam. For example, if you need to make an application on linoleum, this means that the seam will be curly, complex. Such a seam is easier, more accurate, and faster to perform with cold welding.

Hot welding welds only commercial linoleum. You can, of course, apply cold welding, but, as a rule, commercial linoleum is laid where the intensity of mechanical stress is significant. Therefore, it must be welded stronger than household, that is, by the hot method.

When welding with hot air, filler rods of a triangular or round profile are used, made of plasticized polyvinyl chloride. The edges are pre-cut to fit the shape of the rod on adjacent panels, as a result of which V-shaped grooves are formed. When welding, a device is used to produce hot air - a welding torch. Compressed air supplied to it from the compressors passes through heating elements, heats up and exits the tip at a temperature of 300-400°C. During welding, the torch, followed by the filler rod, is led along the joint. Under the action of hot air, the surfaces of the linoleum and the filler rod soften and, under the pressure of the pressure roller, are firmly welded. Welding is performed by one trained worker.

Welding is carried out only after the linoleum is already well glued to the floor, but not earlier than the next day after that.

Process hot welding is as follows:

• Along the entire length of the joint of carefully laid linoleum sheets (the gap between them should be minimal), the craftsmen cut a groove (groove) for the cord with which they will weld with a mechanical planer or chisel. Each type of linoleum has its own cord.
• Masters carefully clean the joints with a special vacuum cleaner.
• The cord is loaded into the welding gun-hair dryer, plug it into the network. Press the cord into the groove for a second with the tip of the gun - the cord is tightly fused into the joint. And so along the entire length of the joint.
• With a special arc-shaped knife or a flat chisel, the master cuts off the part of the fused cord protruding above the surface. This must be done in two steps - otherwise the seam will turn out to be concave.

Cold welding seams. Solving the docking problem is quite simple. There is a special glue for cold welding of linoleum seams. The main advantage is that it is ideal for home conditions and does not require the participation of masters. In addition, if you accidentally damage the PVC coating, the adhesive will seal the cut so that no traces remain.

There are two types of glue: A and C. The first type (A) is suitable for welding the seams of “freshly laid” linoleum, the second (C) is for sealing seams on linoleum that has already been in the apartment for some time, and the seams, quite possibly, parted a little.

The difference between A-glue and C-glue is in consistency, that is, in its density. C-glue (for old linoleum) is made much thicker: they have to fill in the parted joints, sometimes a few millimeters wide. It is poured between the old canvases, filling the gap formed, and fastens them tightly. A-glue "works" differently: it holds tightly packed new pieces together, actually melting ("welding") the edges of the linoleum.

Cold welding with A-glue:

• First you need to (required) put on gloves.
• Thoroughly clean the seam of dust with a vacuum cleaner. If water gets into the joint, it must be wiped dry.
• Glue on the edges of the panels (along the joint) a wide one-sided adhesive tape (it will protect that part of the linoleum that does not need to be melted).
• Carefully cut the adhesive tape over the junction of the linoleum sheets with a blade.
• Apply glue carefully. There is a “needle” on the tip of the tube - this is a guide along which glue flows. A cotton swab should be kept under the tip so that excess glue drips onto it, and not onto the linoleum. The height of the adhesive strip (that is, the part protruding above the surface) should be approximately 4 mm.
• After 5-10 minutes, you can remove the adhesive tape. After half an hour, when the glue is completely dry, it will be possible to walk along the seam.
• If glue accidentally spilled onto the linoleum, you do not need to wipe off the excess immediately. You should wait for the glue to dry, and then remove it with a sharp knife.

© 2000 - 2009 Oleg V. website™

K category: floors

Linoleum floors

Before laying linoleum, you should prepare a base for it. To do this, make a black floor, then clean it well and sweep it. After that, it is covered with a layer of rolled material (for example, roofing paper) so that the edges of one sheet; they went to the edges of the neighboring one by about 15 cm. So that the sheets do not move, they are placed on the mastic.

After that, the fibreboards are laid on the floor, pressing one tightly against the other. If the plates do not fit well, cuts are made in them.

Then a primer should be applied to the plates. For its preparation, 1 weight part of bitumen BN-50/50 (grade BN-Sh or BN-IV) is placed in a metal bowl and melted on fire to a temperature of 170-180 ° C. Then cool to a temperature of 80 ° C, pour 2-3 parts of gasoline into it in a thin stream and mix everything until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. The primer is applied to wood-fiber boards using a brush with stiff bristles at the rate of 300 g per 1 sq. m. The primer should dry within a day. When the primer dries, glue the plates to the base. To do this, use bituminous mastic from 151 parts of bitumen grade BN-50/50 BN-111, -43 parts of gasoline. 6 parts pine resin or rosin. The bitumen is melted in a metal bowl, resin or rosin is poured in and melted again, for 15 minutes, stirring continuously. The bitumen is removed from the fire, cooled to a temperature of 80 ° C and gasoline is poured into it in a thin stream. Everything is well mixed.

When the mastic has cooled, apply it to the base and evenly distribute it with a spatula so that a layer of no more than 3 mm is obtained. Lay the plates in the order in which they were fitted. Then they are pressed down with bricks or sandbags. Sandbags or bricks are removed from the slabs after 24-48 hours. Remove excess mastic from the plates, sand the surface of the coarse-grained sandpaper and sweep away the dust. Before laying linoleum, prepare it as follows: cut sheets required sizes, put them on flat surface and ironed with a bag of hot sand. Then the sheets are laid on top of each other in such a way that they are large on the bottom and small on top, and press down with any heavy object. This is necessary in order for the linoleum to straighten and smooth out.

When cutting linoleum into sheets, you should pay attention to their location in the room. One-color linoleum sheets or marbled sheets are placed perpendicular to the outer walls to make the seams less noticeable. Linoleum sheets with a pattern are laid parallel to the outer walls, be sure to adjust according to the pattern. If linoleum is laid on wooden base, then the sheets are laid along the boards. In this case, you need to ensure that the seams of the sheets fall in the middle of the whole board.

After the linoleum is completely straightened, the sheets are laid face down and mastic is applied to them, leaving the joined edges approximately 20 cm wide unsmeared.

Then put the mastic on the base. Lay the linoleum on the base face up and smooth it well first with your hands, and then with a sandbag in the direction from the middle of the sheet to the edges. This must be done in order to remove air and excess mastic from under the linoleum. The second canvas is laid so that its edge overlaps the edge of the first canvas by 15-20 cm, and is also smoothed.

If mastic is squeezed out from under the edges, then they should be bent and removed, otherwise the unfitted edges will stick ahead of time.

As described above, stick the required number of sheets. Linoleum will stick only after 7 days. During this week, you need to check if there are bubbles on the linoleum. If there is, then in order to get rid of them, you should put a board on these places, and a load on top.

When the linoleum is glued to the base, the butt edges are cut. To make the seams even, you should use only well-sharpened knives. A ruler is placed on the butt edge of the linoleum, pressed down with a knee, put a knife to it and immediately cut off both excess edges of the linoleum. Then the base and the back of the edges are smeared with mastic and first one edge is glued, and then the second. The mastic that appears on the surface is removed, and paper is placed along the entire seam and pressed down with a load. The cargo is not removed for several days. If there are bubbles on the edges after removing the load, then the edge is lifted up, again lubricated with mastic, smoothed and pressed down with the load, leaving it also for several days.

Surface preparation before laying linoleum

General recommendations
In principle, linoleum can be laid on any base. There is only one requirement for the base: it must be exceptionally even. Linoleum eventually fits the surface so that no matter how thick it is, all defects will be visible through the layer - both bulges and dents, and stripes. So the surface under the linoleum must be prepared very diligently.

The floor surface is usually checked with a flat two-meter rail. It is placed on the floor and carried along the floor, making sure that there are no gaps between the rail and the floor. The gap should not exceed 3 mm.

Make sure the floor is dry before you start laying. In no case should wooden flooring boards sag: if they "breathe", linoleum cannot be laid.

cement screed. It is made in order to level concrete, stone or brick bases. The composition of the solution: three parts of sand - one part of pure cement. Density - at the level of thick dough.

The floor should be carefully swept, washed, dried.

If you don't have experience construction works, it is best to make a screed "on the beacons". This is done as follows: “beacons” are placed along the floor - two parallel slats at a distance of one and a half to two meters. A transverse board, a small one, is superimposed on them, as shown in Figure 1.

The height of the parallel rails can be different: the size of the gap between the beacon and the floor can be adjusted by the depth of the cutouts at the ends of the bevel.
The main condition: the fry must lie on the beacons strictly horizontally. So that the beacons do not sag when you lead the beacons along them, they must be tightly laid on the floor, knocking wedges into the gaps and smearing the solution in these places. When the solution dries a little, but has not yet completely set, the slats must be removed and the recesses left by them should be repaired with the same solution.

Then it is necessary to moisten the base with water, apply a solution with a slight excess between the beacons and, leading along the beacons with a small beacon, level the solution layer.
When the layer laid in this way is somewhat hardened, it can be rubbed using a large grater.

The solution dries for at least five days. So that cracks do not form on it, do not exfoliate separate sections, two or three times a day it should be thoroughly sprayed with water. At the same time, care must be taken so that heavy drops do not leave dents on the surface.

When the screed layer dries, it must be sanded. Better - an even bar. But you can also use the skin, wrapped on a flat wooden block.

Preparation of wooden bases. Old wooden base First you need to check if the boards are bending somewhere. Sagging boards must be raised and additional logs laid under them.

How to repair a plank floor is described in the chapter "Carpentry work" (section "How to rebuild a plank floor"). Here we will only draw your attention to the need to putty the floor and sand it over the putty.

How to lay a new floor is also described in the chapter "Carpentry work" (section "How new floors are laid"). To the above, we add that under linoleum it is better to choose boards with a width of no more than 10 cm.

If you are going to stick linoleum not with panels, but with tiles, it is better to cover the floors with semi-solid wood-fiber sheets. They are nailed to plank floor nails. The hats must be drowned, the recesses and edges at the joints - proliferate, putty and sand the putty.

Linoleum floors - pros and cons

Linoleum floors have long held a leading position among various flooring materials. This is due primarily to the affordable cost of linoleum and its excellent performance.

This type of flooring is used almost everywhere - in schools, at enterprises and in ordinary houses. However, linoleum floors have both their advantages and some disadvantages that every owner who decides to lay linoleum in his house should be aware of (read about that here).

To date, there are different kinds linoleum, and each of them has its own advantages. For home styling the best way natural linoleum is suitable, but this does not mean that the usual coating cannot be used.

About what has already been said earlier, this article about linoleum floors will reveal all their advantages and disadvantages of operation. So, the advantages of linoleum as a material for finishing the floor, first of all, should include the following:

Linoleum, which is important, can also be used in conjunction with. And finally, a very important advantage of linoleum floors is that it is very easy and quick to take care of this coating. Moreover, for the care of linoleum, you can use various cleaning products, which cannot be said about parquet or even laminate.

However, linoleum floors are not deprived of some disadvantages. Unfortunately, this is true, since linoleum can hardly be called completely environmentally friendly. The fact is that it consists of several layers of materials artificially created by man.

It is part of linoleum and rubber, which most often emits bad smell when laying linoleum floors. To get rid of it, sometimes you need to wait at least two, or even more weeks.

But besides this, there are some difficulties in the installation of linoleum, because this coating requires a particularly even and solid base. If you put linoleum on an unprepared floor surface, then nothing good will come of it, and the material itself will quickly warp and become unusable.