Installing drywall, do you need to cut the edge. How to cut drywall at home: consider the tools, the better to cut drywall

How not to make mistakes when installing this material?

Drywall is one of the modern building materials, a characteristic feature of which is the composition of the properties of various substances in one complex. The combination of multidirectional properties of raw materials in one product allows you to obtain results that are unattainable when using these materials separately.

Gypsum boards (GKL) is a material, when used correctly, that gives a significant gain in speed of finishing work and in the ease with which it allows you to get perfectly flat surfaces. Some information about drywall work will help you avoid mistakes and make the job easier and more enjoyable.

Fact 1

Drywall was invented to increase the sale of paper.

Photo: board.kompass.ua

Drywall was invented in 1884 by American Augustine Sackett, the owner of a paper mill. The search for new areas of application and markets for his products led to the birth of a new material.
The prototype of modern drywall was ten layers of thick paper glued with plaster. Subsequently, Stephen Kelly simplified the structure of the material by using a solid gypsum core and a double-sided paper shell. Clarence Oostman came up with the idea of ​​closed sheet edges. In this form, drywall has reached our days, without undergoing fundamental changes.

Fact 2

Drywall, like any material, has its own scope.

If the idea arose to level the walls or ceiling with drywall, you should evaluate the degree of unevenness of the surfaces. This material is most effective in leveling large irregularities and setting up false walls, partitions and other structures. If the irregularities are small, the use of drywall can lead to unnecessary costs of time and money. In addition, when using it as a “dry plaster”, it should be remembered that the plasterboard sheathing inevitably takes up some room space, which in some cases can be very significant.

Fact 3

When cladding walls with drywall, sheets can be attached to glue.

Photo: mebelportal-nn.ru

If it is necessary to clad a wall with plasterboard, the irregularities of which do not exceed 20-50 mm, the sheets can be fixed with a special glue, for example, Perlfix gypsum adhesive mixture manufactured by Knauf. The mixture is applied to the reverse side of the sheet in three vertical stripes using a ladle with a "chipped" edge. With very even walls, a comb trowel can also be used.
If the irregularities exceed 20 mm, then the glue is applied in lumps of about 15 cm in size. The lumps are located along the vertical edges and along the midline of the sheet after about 25 cm in height. With very large wall irregularities, they can be compensated by first gluing drywall strips on the wall in these places.
When working with glue, it is important to remember that it remains operational for 30 minutes after preparation. It is necessary to prepare the mixture in such an amount that will be used during this time.
The correctness of laying sheets is checked by a ruler (right and scrap) 2.5 m long. The sheet protruding above the plane must be “planted” by tapping it with a rubber mallet through the rule.

Fact 4

Fastening drywall sheets to metal profiles with self-tapping screws does not require pre-drilling.

To a person who is used to working “by the rules”, the idea of ​​screwing self-tapping screws into smooth metal without holes may seem, to put it mildly, strange. However, the self-tapping screws used in drywall work for metal, after several turns of “slip”, independently make a hole in the profile and enter it, securely fastening.
You should not attempt to perform this operation manually. To do this, use a screwdriver or drill. For fixing drywall, black self-tapping screws with a countersunk head and fine threads are used, which securely hold them in thin sheet metal.

Fact 5

The fastening of the frame elements to each other has its own characteristics.

Photo: stroim-vmeste.ucoz.ru

To connect the elements of the metal frame to each other, there is a special tool resembling tongs. The operation of this tool lies in the fact that with its help two parts (profiles) are tightly pressed against each other, then a hole is punched in their walls, the edges of the metal in it are bent and fix the parts. It turns out a kind of rivet connection that does not require any fasteners.
However, most builders prefer to use the same self-tapping screws for fastening. Such a connection is unreliable for a number of reasons and can lead to gradual loosening of the attachment points. If you already use self-tapping screws, then you should prefer the option with a drill and a semicircular or hex head with a press washer. Such a self-tapping screw presses the fastened parts more tightly and holds more securely.

Fact 6

A drill is no worse than a screwdriver.

Photo: www.znaikak.ru

If there is no screwdriver at hand, then it can be replaced with an electric drill. Screwing screws with a drill is not so convenient and requires certain skills. But in the case of fastening the GKL, a special nozzle-bit helps a lot in the work.
The drywall bit is a regular PH2 bit with a stopper attached to it. When screwing in, the limiter rests against the surface of the drywall and the head of the self-tapping screw is recessed flush with the surface. It does not need to control the speed of rotation and torque.

Fact 7

The beat is one of the important little things.

A bit, that is, a nozzle that directly turns the self-tapping screw, is a rather important piece of equipment when working with drywall. When mounting the frame and sewing sheets, you will have to screw in thousands of self-tapping screws. Under these conditions, the right bit can have a significant impact on the speed of work and the amount of effort expended.
Firstly, the bit must necessarily correspond to the slots of the self-tapping screw both in size and in type. When installing plasterboard structures, self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm with simple cross-shaped slots are usually used. For them, the PH2 bit is intended. If self-tapping screws with eight-beam slots are used (they are usually yellow or white), then for them it is better to stock up on PZ bits of the appropriate size.
Ideally, a self-tapping screw mounted on a bit should be tightly held on it. In working with self-tapping screws, a magnetic holder is very helpful - an intermediate link between a drill or screwdriver chuck and a bit. It is easy to check the quality of the holder when buying: you need to install any bit into it and “dip” it into a bunch of self-tapping screws. If after that only one of them remained on the bit, it is better not to use such a holder. A good magnet should hold at least three.

Fact 8

The edges of the drywall sheet have a special shape for high-quality sealing of joints.

Photo: dleamasterov.ru

The longitudinal edges of the GKL have a special shape. The bevelled semicircular edge facilitates high-quality filling of the joint with putty. The reduced thickness of the sheet near the edge makes it possible to lay a reinforcing tape on the joint so that it does not create a bulge in this place.
With longitudinal, that is, vertical joints, everything is more or less clear. But how to seal the transverse joints, inevitable with a wall height exceeding the length of the sheet?
Firstly, the transverse seams must be done "in a run", so that they are located on adjacent panels at different heights.
Secondly, the horizontal edges of the sheets, unlike the vertical ones, are not fixed on a rigid base along the entire length and can fluctuate. To fix the edges, it is necessary to hem pieces of the profile across the joint from the inside, 15-20 cm long. There should be two such reinforcements per sheet width.
Thirdly, the edges of the seam must be opened to a depth of at least half the thickness of the sheet, removing the material along the edge at an angle of 45 °. Next, you need to remove the cardboard shell of the sheet along the edge to the width that the reinforcing tape will take.
After that, the joint is sealed with Fugenfuller (Fugenfuller) or Uniflott (Uniflot) putty, just like the vertical one. Despite the fact that Uniflott putty is intended for sealing joints without the use of tape, it is still better to use it for transverse joints, since they are less rigid and the likelihood of cracks is higher here.

Fact 9

The location of the fasteners on the sheet is strictly regulated by the GKL manufacturer.

When attaching a drywall sheet to the frame, the screws are arranged in a certain order:

• along the edge, the fastening screws are located at a distance of about 20 mm from the edge in increments of 125 mm;
• the sheet is attached to the middle profile along the middle line of the sheet with a step of 250 mm;
• on the front side of the GCR there are marks at the points where you need to put fasteners;
• when fastening edges that are not covered with cardboard (transverse joints, joints of cut fragments), self-tapping screws should be located further from the edge, since the open edge has less strength.

Fact 10

The plasterboard surface must not rest on the floor.

Regardless of the method of fastening the GKL, the sheets are installed in place in the same way:

• the sheet is laid on the floor face down and the bottom end to the place of future installation;
• the lower edge is laid on liners with a thickness of about 10 mm, usually plasterboard trimmings are used for this;
• necessary preparation is carried out, for example, applying glue;
• the sheet is lifted to a vertical position and set in place, while it must be on the liners;
• after the final fastening of the sheet, the liners are removed.

The gap will protect against unpleasant consequences that may occur when the structure sags during operation.

Fact 11

The frame for a false ceiling made of plasterboard is different from the frame of the walls.

Photo: gipsari.com

When installing vertical plasterboard surfaces, each sheet is attached to three profiles: two at the edges, common to adjacent sheets, and one in the center. With a sheet width of 1200 mm, the pitch of the frame vertical profile is 600 mm.
When installing drywall on the ceiling, higher requirements are placed on the frame. To ensure sufficient strength and to prevent sagging of the sheet, the ceiling frame is mounted in increments of 400 mm. That is, each sheet is held by four profiles.
Often, builders neglect this requirement and make the ceiling frame the same as the wall frame, saving the profile. However, in this case, no one can guarantee the impeccable service of the ceiling.

Fact 12

Ceiling fasteners are subject to special requirements.

Photo: vremonte.foxibiz.com

Of the fasteners intended for fastening to brick, concrete, etc., plastic dowels, into which screws are screwed, are most widely used. However, in the case of mounting a false ceiling, their use is unacceptable.
In a ceiling mount, unlike a wall mount, the fastener does not work for a “kink”, but for a “separation”. The plastic dowel may begin to "creep" under load. Well, if a fire suddenly happens, then the ceiling, fixed on thermoplastic fasteners, can become worse than the fire itself.
To attach a false ceiling to the base one, it is better to use impact metal dowels-wedges or anchor bolts.

Fact 13

You should not save on the rigidity of the drywall partition.

Photo: nashakrepost.ru

When redeveloping an apartment, gypsum board partitions are very convenient. The frame of steel vertical profiles is sheathed on both sides with plasterboard, the inner cavity is filled with soundproofing material - and the wall is ready!
However, an unpleasant surprise may lie in wait here. The entire partition is attached to the floor, ceiling and walls. In fact, a membrane is obtained that is capable of fluctuations with all the ensuing consequences. In order not to get a huge drum instead of a wall, you need to take care of the rigidity of the frame in advance. For this you can:

• minimize the length of a free partition, build a layout in such a way that the partition is reinforced by an angle, adjoining another partition and other stiffening ribs;
• apply a profile of maximum section for the frame;
• introduce reinforced profiles into the frame for the installation of doors;
• increase the mass of the partition by performing a two-layer plasterboard sheathing.

Fact 14

The junction of a plasterboard partition with a wall, floor or ceiling is a potential hole in an adjacent room.

The joint of a plasterboard partition with other structures, despite the apparent density, is an open window for heat leakage and sound penetration. No matter how carefully the installation is carried out, a through gap is formed in this place from one room to another.
In order to exclude the occurrence of this defect, a special strip of foamed rubber is laid under the adjoining profile. The elastic gasket will tightly fill all the irregularities and seal the joint. The foam structure will absorb sounds and retain heat.

Fact 15

Attaching anything to a plasterboard wall should be done carefully.

Photo: obystroy.ru

It is quite possible to mount shelves, cabinets and even rather heavy cabinets on a drywall wall. The main thing is to use special fasteners for this and correctly position the attachment points.
However, if you need to fix a heavy object that gives a high load, for example, a boiler, then it is better to arrange the fasteners so that the load falls not on the sheet, but on the power elements. It is best to lay the reinforcement in the required place at the stage of building the frame.

No wonder drywall is a common finishing material. After all, its installation and installation can be done by both an amateur and a professional. In this article, we will look at how to properly install gypsum craton with our own hands, how to sheathe walls with it.

Ways

Installation of drywall is carried out using a wooden frame, a special adhesive mixture, metal profiles and cement. If the installation is carried out on the ceiling, then instead of glue it is better to use a wooden frame. Whatever method of drywall installation you choose, you need to ensure that the sheets are evenly fixed. The design must serve reliably and durable without rattling and structural noise.

Installation on a metal profile

The profile is a strip of steel, which must be bent into a rigid rail on a special conveyor. The rail must be made in compliance with standard dimensions, in addition, it is also necessary to add a non-through notch, which increases rigidity. You also need to make through holes in increments of 300-600 millimeters.

• you will notice improved moisture resistance compared to wood.
• Thanks to element standardization, you can achieve high efficiency even on very curved walls.
• It is possible to additionally lay thermal insulation.

Minuses:

• Weak insulation, if you do not take additional measures for soundproofing, it will sound like a drum.
• You also need to use a huge number of tools, in comparison with the glue method.

The wood that is used for the frame must be even, planed and not damp, so that blossoms or traces of bark do not appear.

Pros:

• wood is environmentally friendly, and this is an advantage over metal;
• good sound insulation;
• the possibility of laying thermal insulation.

Minuses:

• you will have to additionally protect the structure from moisture, especially if there is a kitchen or other source of moisture next to the room.

For gluing drywall, you need to use a cement-polymer adhesive. To perform the work, you need a minimum of tools, as well as a little experience with similar compositions. Only a fairly even surface initially, with maximum differences of up to 20 millimeters, and a primed base will do.

Pros:

• this design occupies a minimum distance from the base to the finished surface;
• provides good sound insulation and requires a minimum number of tools.

• you will need a very strong surface with maximum drops of up to 20 millimeters;
• there is no way to install thermal insulation. For insulation, you will have to use foam: a putty mesh plus a putty ball and dowels parachutes.

Wiring under drywall

When all profiles are installed, you can begin to carry out communications: network and telephone cables, electrical wiring, as well as future consumption points.

Important! The electrical rules state that all power wires that are behind the casing must be in a fireproof corrugated pipe. You can also use a plastic corrugation or metal hose, marked "Not Combustible".

Wires with safe voltage do not have to be hidden in the corrugation, however, in this way the wiring can be protected from damage.

Finishing instructions

1. Define consumption points. You need to measure whether the cords are long enough to connect appliances. Determine the number of electrical outlets so that you do not have to turn off the computer to turn on the vacuum cleaner.

2. Determine the optimal height of sockets and switches. They must be at a level that is safe for animals and children.

3. Draw each dot on the wall.

4. Draw a wire to the points. To avoid problems in the future, keep in mind a simple rule: the wire must go vertically from the outlet, but the horizontal sections must be connected at the level with distribution boxes.

5. Fix the wires well in the wall. Try not to tangle the wires to the uprights.

6. Leave the length of the wire so that it is possible to connect sockets 100-150 millimeters from the current wall.

7. Future holes for sockets must be installed on the exact location of the centers or in a pre-cut hole on a sheet of drywall.

Mark the holes and measure the diameter.

It is best to learn how to cut drywall on scrap sheets, since the boxes differ in their diameter, or a crown may not fit. If you cut out the socket on the installed sheet, then do not forget about the wire. Flaws can be finished with a simple semicircular file or use sandpaper, previously put on the round handle of the hammer. A properly installed box should sit snugly in the hole.

8. Now you need to put the wire into the box, and then tighten the legs with screws so that the box is fixed. Screws can be placed vertically or horizontally, depending on the specific model.

9. A small hole is enough for a lamp, but it will be difficult to get the wire through it. In this case, it is best to start the wire before screwing the sheet.

10. The installation of switches, sockets and lamps is best left until the end of work.

Interior items, furniture

If you are installing drywall on walls, then you need to take into account the features of fixing lamps, furniture and other elements. For drywall, special fasteners are made, which are also called butterflies. Butterflies are either metal or plastic.

On the other side of the sheet, the butterfly firmly fixes the screw. Remember that only light objects can be hung on such a mount: a light shelf, a picture or a lamp.

However, if desired, you can also hang a boiler or sports equipment for children. For fastening heavy objects, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a profile, which is also called a CD with an embedded bar. The profile together with the bar is attached to the wall and is able to withstand heavy loads. To obtain a reliable structure, spacers must be laid, which together form a flat frame. After you finish decorating the walls, you can carefully fix the item you need.

To fix the skirting, you need to put trimmings into the UD drywall between the CD risers. After finishing work, you can easily screw the plinth with screws into this profile.

How to cut drywall

For the correct cutting of drywall sheets, you need to take a pencil, knife, tape measure and a flat rail. You will need an assistant.

1. Mark up.
2. Cut through the paper with a sharp knife.

3. Break the sheet. The plaster core will break exactly along the line.

4. Hold the halves at a 90-degree angle, and cut through the paper from the back.

How to remove a bevel

Important: Sheet edges that meet other edges must have a 45 degree chamfer.

1. To make a chamfer, you need to cut the paper under a flat bar parallel to the cut. You need to step back about 10 millimeters.

2. Cut the chamfer with a knife, since the paper on the front layer will not bulge.

3. Sand down any unevenness and paper with a drywall planer. You can also use sandpaper or a wood file.

cutout

To make a cutout from the edge, you must first cut the paper with a knife on one side according to the marking.

Make two cuts from the edge with a jigsaw or hacksaw.

After all the procedures, break through the drywall and break the sheet from the back.

If you need to cut a hole in the middle of the sheet, then you will have to saw through 3 sides and only then break it. It is also possible to cut holes completely.

Processing joints, corners

When all the sheets are installed, and the wires are led out under the switches, sockets and lamps, you can seal the joints and grooves from the screws with putty. To seal the joints, you can use the Knauf mixture, which hardens after a short time and forms a durable material.

The edge with a chamfer must be carefully primed and wait until completely dry. Be sure to stick a reinforcing mesh on all joints, the width of which is 80-100 millimeters.

If the two edges of the drywall are cut to a 45 degree chamfer, then do the following:

1. Cut the mesh lengthwise so that it is level with the plane.

2. You can use a standard width mesh, but in this case you will have to putty the entire surface of drywall with a thickness of 2 millimeters.

Important: the reinforcing mesh should always be in the middle of the putty. There is always glue on such a grid, which is designed for easy use and storage. In no case do not glue the mesh to the joints without putty, because as a result the mesh will fall off. Apply 60% putty and only then drown the mesh in putty, fill the entire depth with another layer.

Fugenfüller putty the recesses from the screws. Take a narrow spatula and stretch in several directions so that the mixture fills all the recesses. When the mixture dries, it will retract a little and this is normal. Re-tightening the dimples can be done with ordinary putty.

Corner processing

Putty corners must be glued to the outer corners. Fugenfüller can be used as an adhesive base. Gypsum mixes will also work, but remember that the putty layer should be a little thicker here.

Basically there are such types of corners:

1. Aluminum - they are quite rigid and do not corrode, but they quickly break.
2. Plastic - less rigid, they do not break and do not rust.
3. Galvanized - very hard, they are difficult to break, but they rust in the process. Rust may even show up from under the finish.

Here are some principles to follow when working with corners.

It is very good if there are factory edges on the outer corner, in which case the corner will not protrude beyond the plane. Immediately after gluing the corner, you can start puttying with a finishing gypsum mixture.

If one or both planes do not come with factory edges:

1. Make a small chamfer with a knife so that the corner is flush: you need to prime the chamfer, glue the corner and putty everything with the finishing mixture.
2. You can glue the corner on the plane: in this case, the sheet must be puttied with the main putty to smooth out all the bumps.
3. You can not use a corner at all: in this case, you need to putty the plane, paint the walls or stick wallpaper, and only after that stick a plastic corner that would protect it from damage. The plastic outer corner can also be used if you have already installed the inner one.

Don't bother too much with the inner corners, because ordinary putty is enough to fill in the bumps. The instructions for use state that internal corners can also be sealed with special paper, but this is rarely seen in practice.

To join the drywall slope to the window, you need to create an elastic seam. Plastic windows are very mobile, so cracks may appear over time. It is best to make a small chamfer, 3x3 in size, with an angle of 45 degrees. Treat it with a primer and wait until it dries completely. Then fill everything with acrylic sealant, which is elastic.

Important: If you ordered plasterboard lining, then the sealing of screws, seams and corners will be included in the cost of installing drywall. You do not need to pay for these works separately.

Finishing

Drywall can be an excellent base for wallpapering, tiling and painting. In no case do not use transparent wallpaper, because in this case all joints will be visible.

If you decide to use wallpaper, then for the base, putty the base with a finishing gypsum mixture. In this case, the base will be monophonic. Putty will not affect the bonding strength of the wallpaper. Before applying putty, the walls must be primed.

Plasterboard walls can simply be painted with interior paint, however, in this case, you will have to apply more than 3 layers, and this, as you know, will spoil the overall uniformity of the texture. That is why it is much more profitable to putty drywall with putty, as well as pre-priming.

If you plan to glue the tiles, then the surface does not need to be further processed. However, be sure to seal the seams with elastic grout. Ceresit CE-40 may fit.

Regardless of the type of finish, drywall must be carefully primed with a primer.

Tool list

To perform markup:

• Roulette.
• Rack level.
• Pencil.
• Plumb.
• Water level and laser level.

For making a frame

• Screwdriver.
• Perforator.
• Scissors for metal work.
• A hammer.
• Pliers.
• Bulgarian.

To work with sheets:

• Sharp knife.
• Long rail.
• GK planer or other similar tool.
• Hacksaw.

For sealing screws, joints and corners:

• Spatula 250-300 millimeters.
• Spatula 60-80 millimeters.
• Sandpaper or mesh 100-180.
• Mixture container.
• Roller or brush for primer.

Conclusion

If you have read this article carefully, then you know the basics of installation that will come in handy for installing drywall with your own hands. The following articles will talk about how to sew up slopes and walls, as well as how to make a drywall partition. Practical data will also be given for installing a pipeline box and other structures that will be needed to finish a private house or apartment.

Many home craftsmen do not follow the technology of sealing the ends of drywall, which leads to poor-quality finishes and cracking of the seams. You need to carefully study all the stages of this simple process before starting work. How to close the seams? The technology is simple and can be divided into three stages, which cannot be neglected so that the drywall construction lasts a long time.

The process of sealing the ends of drywall

There is a certain procedure that directly affects the quality of the finish. Do not rush, when sealing joints in drywall constructions, everything must be done in strict sequence, especially if you are doing the work for the first time with your own hands.

Embedded ends on a plasterboard wall

In most cases, the seams crack precisely because of the work being done in a hurry, but the quality of the materials used also plays an important role.

The first stage is preparation

Preliminary preparation is necessary in any work, and when arranging joints in drywall, this is one of the important steps. The first step is to properly dock.
There is a lot of information on the Internet about whether or not to leave a gap between the sheets, and it is often very contradictory.

Based on the experience of professional finishers, we can safely say that a gap of about 2 mm should be left between the plates.

This is necessary so that during a change in humidity in the room the seams will not be deformed and will not crack in them. It is also worth noting that when joining the cutting elements of the material, the seams must be properly prepared. The gap should be at least 2 mm, but more on that later.

The size of the gap between sheets of drywall
Consider what you need to purchase to get started, the list is not very large, so preparing it is easy. Below is a table that shows everything that will be needed.

Required set of tools

putty	First of all, we will analyze what kind of putty you need to apply for. The mixture must be chosen such that it will subsequently be possible to putty the entire surface of the wall so that the material does not disappear.
	The material is designed for and is available in several versions from 45 to 100 mm. For joints, the first size is used. It is better to use self-adhesive material, as it is much more convenient to use it.
	This material is used to improve the adhesion of the material to the surface, in addition, it protects drywall from moisture, which in the future will prevent delamination of the putty from the GKL boards. Acrylic putty is considered the best option.
Spatula	It is impossible to do any finishing work without a good tool. To seal the joints, you will need two types of tools: a wide spatula - 350 mm, and to help in applying a small spatula - 100 mm.
Additional tool	This is for jointing, and brushes, screwdrivers. Drill with mixer nozzle, for mixing mortar, container or construction bucket.

Read also

Methods for attaching drywall to the wall

Step-by-step process for sealing ends in drywall




Important! To obtain a high-quality putty composition, you need to buy fresh material, which is stored in a heated warehouse with proper humidity. If the storage conditions are violated, then a high-quality finish will not work.

The second stage is the preparation of joints

Once all preparations for the start of work are completed, you can begin to prepare the joints.

The scheme for sealing corner joints between drywall The algorithm for performing the work is as follows:

• clean the surface of dust, if there are defects in the form of scuffs or burrs on the seams, they must be carefully cut off with a construction knife. Dust is removed with a damp cloth, this is very important to do, especially if the walls have been assembled for a long time;
• inspect the structure - specifically, you need to pay attention to the caps, protruding fasteners need to be tightened so that they are recessed into the material by 1 mm;
  
  
  
• the edges of the sheets from the factory do not require additional attention, but the joints of the cut material need to be prepared. To do this, you need to remove the edge at an angle of 450, as a result, you should get a chamfer 2 mm wide, 5 mm deep.
  

Everyone knows the saying - "repair is worse than a flood." If you want to change the look of your apartment, but do not want to turn this business into a problem that takes a lot of time and nerves, money and effort, then the easiest choice is to work with drywall. It is in the power of a professional builder to create what is called a “masterpiece” of drywall, but a beginner will be able to independently transform his apartment with the help of this material. And in order for the work to be argued, you can prepare in advance by studying some of the questions that arise for everyone for whom plasterboard finishing is the first experience.

How to choose the right GKL?

A more difficult option is plasterboard sheathing of a metal frame. But this method will allow you to get not just a flat wall, but also make it possible to make figured niches, shelves, drywall arches and other decorative elements. The metal frame consists of guide profiles, fixed around the perimeter of the room by means of dowels. Rack profiles are inserted into the guides at a distance of 600 mm from each other. Drywall sheets are screwed to the resulting crate with self-tapping screws.

If drywall is chosen as the finishing material, the corners of the room become a weak point. In order to reduce brittleness and chipping of the outer corner edges, the GKL is reinforced with a special corner profile. Serpyanka tape is suitable for strengthening the inner corners. The corner profile is installed on a layer of wet putty and slightly pressed into it. After the bottom layer of the putty mixture has dried, another layer of putty is applied over the corner. The final operation will be grinding the corner surface.

Building a false ceiling frame

The question "how to sheathe walls with drywall" is solved quite simply and quickly. With the ceiling, the situation is a little more complicated. The simplest option is single-level ceiling. First you need to identify the lowest corner in the room and markup based on this point. Then, to accommodate electrical wiring and other communications, about 100-150 mm recede from the ceiling, and guide profiles are attached to the wall along the perimeter with dowel-nails. Now it is necessary to mark the ceiling for longitudinal profiles. By marking after 400 mm, suspensions are attached to the ceiling, and load-bearing ceiling profiles are mounted on them. Quite often, the length of a standard ceiling profile is not enough. Several profiles can be connected into one using cross brackets.

We cut drywall

Working with drywall with your own hands suggests that sooner or later you will encounter the fact that the sheet does not fit in size and you will have to cut it. To do this, you will need a tape measure, a ruler and a sharp construction knife (in its absence, you can use a clerical one). So, having measured the given size, we take a knife and carefully cut the top layer of cardboard and, as far as possible, the gypsum core. Then we put the sheet on the edge of the table and break the core along the cut line to the second layer of cardboard. Cutting the bottom layer of cardboard, we get a piece of sheet of the required size.

We remove chamfers

Preparing drywall for work isn't just about cutting it to size. If you want the drywall seams to be invisible when installing it on a metal frame, you will have to chamfer the edges of the plasterboard. The size of the chamfer depends on the subsequent method by which the plasterboard will be putty. If this operation is performed using a reinforcing tape, then the chamfer is removed at an angle of 45 degrees by about 1/3 of the sheet thickness, if the drywall putty is carried out without the use of a sickle, then the chamfer angle is 20-25 degrees by 2/3 of the sheet thickness. For chamfering, you will need a special edge planer.

Puttying drywall

Universal primer "Yunigrunt" for interior work

Often the question “how to putty drywall” precedes the doubt “does it need to be done at all?”. The answer is unequivocal: puttying drywall is an inevitable operation. To get a flat surface without drops and depressions at the joints of the sheets, the seams between them will have to be puttied.

Sealing drywall joints begins with the removal of dust, crumbs, and other small particles from the surface of the plasterboard. This is followed by primer treatment of drywall, which will increase the adhesion of the sheet with the putty mixture. With a spatula, we put a seam putty into the cavity formed by chamfers at the junction of drywall sheets. On top of the first layer of "seam" you can attach a reinforcing serpentine tape. After complete drying, apply another layer of putty, removing the excess with a spatula. When the putty joint is completely dry, it is sanded with sandpaper. The places where the heads of the self-tapping screws and all corners are screwed are also puttied.

Drywall painting

Drywall for painting is prepared as follows. Initially, after removing dust from the GKL, the entire surface of the sheets is covered with a primer layer. Next, putty and grind all surfaces. The next step is again a primer, and then paint is applied to the sheet using a roller or spray gun. To obtain an acceptable painted surface, drywall painting is carried out in at least three layers. In this case, the next layer of paint can be applied only when the previous one is completely dry.

If the GKL surface is not completely puttied, then it is better not to use glossy paint, since it emphasizes even the smallest flaws. While matte paint for drywall, on the contrary, allows you to smooth out existing defects.

The quality of the painted surface is also affected by the type of paint used. The usual water-based paint fits perfectly on the GKL. In the kitchen or bathroom, drywall, the water absorption characteristics of which are large enough, are best painted with acrylic or latex paints. Only lime-based paint is not applicable for drywall.

We glue wallpaper on drywall

Sticking drywall is the simplest finishing operation, but even in this case, drywall for wallpaper must first be prepared - putty and sand the joints and cavities from self-tapping screws. Then the GKL is coated with a deep penetration acrylic primer. In this case, the glue will be less absorbed into the cardboard surface, which will also reduce the consumption of glue, and the wallpaper will hold better. You can glue wallpaper on drywall of any kind, from the simplest thin paper to dense and heavy non-woven, vinyl or silk-screen printing.

How to bend GKL

If you already know how to work with drywall, and the simplest flat surfaces no longer suit you, but you want something more pretentious, then the next step will be to obtain complex curvilinear forms from plasterboard. And, in principle, there is nothing complicated in this. Before bending drywall, you need to learn that a dry sheet can be bent, but the radius should not exceed the following standards:
for a sheet with a thickness of 6.5 mm - a radius of at least 1000 mm;
for 9.5 mm - 2000 mm;
for 12.5 - 2750 mm.

But such large radii are not needed very often, but how to bend drywall to get small radii? A radius of 300 mm with a sheet thickness of 9.5 mm or 1000 mm with a thickness of 12.5 mm can be obtained if the GCR is wetted with water to such an extent that it is no longer absorbed by the gypsum core. In this case, the cardboard layer must be perforated with a spiked roller or incisions made with a knife. Then the wetted sheet is attached to the template of the required shape and allowed to dry completely. After that, the sheet can be attached to the metal frame.

Small details and finishing touches

When the drywall finish is complete, there are many questions and adjustments that are inevitable in order to complete the renovation. So in every room there must be at least one drywall socket or switch. What do you need to install them? Drill with a special nozzle in the form of a hole cutter and the so-called euro-sockets or switches. Using a drill in a sheet in a matter of seconds, a hole of a standard diameter is obtained, into which an outlet box is inserted and electrical wires are released. Having screwed the recessed screws, fix the box in the GKL. Then connect the wiring to the corresponding socket terminals and close them with a decorative cover.

If there is an unpresentable battery in the room, drywall will help close it. To do this, a special box is made from GKL, or a drywall wall is mounted flush with the battery. In this case, warm air will escape through the inserted decorative grille made of wood or plastic.

You can’t do without decor elements in the apartment that will be mounted on a plasterboard wall: paintings, souvenirs, watches, shelves, etc. If the mass is small, for example, it's just a clock or a small picture, then you can hang them on drywall using ordinary self-tapping screws. For heavier things, fastening is carried out with drop-down dowels (umbrella dowel or butterfly dowel), which redistribute the load over a larger area of ​​​​the sheet. Shelves, cabinets, bulky chandeliers or other heavy objects should not be mounted directly on drywall. They are fixed not to a fragile sheet of drywall, but to a load-bearing wall, drilling through the GKL through and using the appropriate dowels.

Related materials

Types of drywall, profiles and accessories

Drywall can, without any exaggeration, be called the most popular material for leveling walls and ceilings for their further finishing. It is widely used in the construction of complex decorative structures that become an interior decoration. Such popularity is not accidental, since drywall has all the qualities that are necessary for use in residential premises. It is very easy to use, and technologies with its use are quickly mastered even by beginners. There is another important point - this is a very affordable price of drywall sheets, compared with other building materials.

When purchasing this material for the first time for certain purposes, many novice craftsmen involuntarily wonder how to cut drywall at home so as not to spoil or break the sheet, so that blanks with smooth edges and the required dimensions are obtained. There is nothing particularly complicated about this - further we will consider various options for cutting, processing and fitting drywall sheets for a specific area of ​​\u200b\u200bwork.

A few words about the structure of drywall

To begin with, a couple of minutes of attention must be paid to the structure of drywall, since this moment will immediately clarify the process of cutting it. And the "device" of the GKL is very uncomplicated.

Drywall prices

drywall

The structural structure of the sheet of this material is a three-layer "sandwich". The outer layers are made of thick cardboard, and the core is made of pressed gypsum mixture. The lateral long sides of drywall usually have an edge with rounded or trapezoidal corners and are also protected by cardboard. From the end sides, the edge is not provided.

Cardboard is produced in several types - it is a regular (GKL) material of gray color, moisture resistant (GKLV) has green shades of the front side, fire-resistant (GKLO) - pink or light purple, and moisture-resistant(GKLVO) - dark green hue. In addition, an innovative drywall designed for soundproofing walls has appeared on sale today. He manufactured in blue.

The most common standard sheet sizes are 2500 × 1200 mm, that is, having an area of ​​​​3 m². Other options are available, but they are less common: 2000 × 1200 mm (2.4 m²) and 3000 × 1200 mm (3.6 m²). The thickness of the sheets can be 12.5 mm (for walls), as well as 9.5 mm and 6 mm, which are usually used to create structures.

The table below shows the main standard sizes of drywall with an indication of the approximate weight of the sheets. This is so that you can evaluate - the sheets are very bulky and rather heavy. That is, you should work with them carefully: they may not withstand the load on the fracture if they are carelessly handled - they may break.

drywall type	Sheet dimensions (length × width × thickness), mm	Leaf area, m²	Approximate sheet weight, kg
	2000×1200×6	2,4	12
	2000×1200×9.5	2,4	18
	2000×1200×12.5	2,4	23
	2500×1200×6	3,0	15
	2500×1200×9.5	3,0	23
	2500×1200×12.5	3,0	29
	3000×1200×6	3,6	18
	3000×1200×9.5	3,6	27
	3000×1200×12.5	3,6	35
	2000×1200×12.5	2,4	24
	2500×1200×12.5	3,0	30
	3000×1200×12.5	3,6	35
	2000×1200×12.5	2,4	26
	2500×1200×12.5	3,0	31
	3000×1200×12.5	3,6	37
	2000×1200×12.5	2,4	27
	2500×1200×12.5	3,0	32
	3000×1200×12.5	3,6	38

However, whichever is used for construction or, it is cut the same way.

Basic tools for cutting drywall

To cut drywall sheets to certain sizes, you will need some simple tools, the list of which includes the following items:

• Electric jigsaw. This tool can be convenient to make long cuts, and in particular it becomes necessary if a cut of a complex curvilinear shape is required. As a rule, our electric jigsaw is included in the tool "arsenal" of any private house, since it is difficult to do without it on the farm.
• A special knife for cutting drywall or a regular clerical knife with a replaceable blade. More detailed information about this group of instruments will be provided below.
• A narrow hacksaw for wood with a small set of teeth, or a special hand saw for drywall.
• Electric drill with a set of large pen drills, as well as crowns - for cutting large round holes for wiring communications, sockets for installing electrical outlets and switches.
• A drywall planer or a regular wood planer. This tool will be necessary for processing edges when cutting material.
• A spiked roller is required if it is necessary to form an arched opening from drywall or another curved surface, for example, for a complex
• To measure and mark sheets, you will need a simple pencil or marker, tape measure, building square, meter metal ruler. If there is no ruler, it can be replaced by a flat metal profile used to equip the frame crate. In addition, it is necessary to have a construction rule at hand for making long, even cuts “under the ruler”.

Drywall knives

Due to the fact that the main tool for cutting drywall is a knife, its characteristics should be considered in more detail.

Prices for popular electric jigsaws

Drywall cutting knives can be divided into three categories. Detailed information about them is presented in this table:

Categories of knives	Characteristic features of the tool
Standard knives	Such knives are the most affordable tool, and this is their main advantage. The design is quite simple, since it consists of four elements - this is a body-handle, a cover-latch, a blade regulator-latch and the replaceable blade itself. The reliability of such knives is quite low, especially when used for cutting drywall. They are more suitable for cutting paper. When cutting drywall, the blades become dull quickly.
Reinforced knife models	These are more expensive options compared to standard models. They differ from the first ones in the presence of a metal guide installed in the body, which fixes the blade more securely and ensures the rigidity of the position during the cut.
Professional knives	Such tools are used by craftsmen who constantly work with drywall. There are a lot of options for professional knives. They differ from each other in the ergonomics of the body, the principle of operation of the latch and some other design nuances. The price of such models is many times different from those mentioned above, and sometimes reaches 1000 rubles.

In principle, drywall can be cut with any of the named knife models. However, in order to decide on the choice of this tool, it is worth considering all the options in more detail.

It should be noted right away that knives with a 9 mm blade should not even be considered, since they are not suitable for cutting drywall. Such a blade may not withstand pressure and break. Not only will this greatly slow down the work - the breakdown of a thin blade is often accompanied by a rather serious injury to the hand.

For cutting drywall, knives with a blade having a width of 18 or 25 mm are used.

Product appearance	Types of knives and cutters and their features
	A wallpaper or stationery knife can be called the simplest and most affordable option. This tool is popular among non-professional builders as it is easy to use and can be used not only for cutting drywall but for many other operations. The thickness of the blades can vary from 0.3 to 0.6 mm - in this case, the larger this indicator, the better. This type of knife is produced in different versions, but their performance characteristics are basically identical.
	A knife with a trapezoidal blade is considered the best option for working with drywall, as it is designed specifically for cutting this material. The advantages of this tool include an ergonomic, comfortable shape of the handle, which makes it comfortable to work with the tool, as the hand force is perfectly transmitted to the material being processed. The blade, which has a trapezoidal shape, is rigid, thanks to which it does not bend and cuts drywall sheets with high quality. Knives of this type have a fairly large variation in cost, which mainly depends on the brand of the product. But even the most inexpensive options have shown themselves well in operation.
	Another version of a knife with a trapezoidal blade designed for cutting drywall is a product that has a folding design. It is very convenient, because when folded the tool is safe and can be carried in your pocket without fear of injury. The remaining characteristics correspond to the previous version.
	Knives with a circular blade are designed for cutting drywall, and many craftsmen prefer to use them in their work, as the tool perfectly separates the sheets, making perfectly even cuts, including curved ones. The disk is installed next to a metal ruler set along the cut line, pressed and moved along it. In the direction of movement of the knife, an even cut of the same depth is formed. If necessary, the round blade can be pressed with quite a lot of force, as it has sufficient rigidity and can withstand such loads without problems. There are also folding knives with a disc blade. In such models, the disk comes out of the case when you press the movable part of the handle.
	The thickness gauge or drywall cutter differs from the previous options in its appearance and design. This tool consists of two disks arranged horizontally parallel to each other at a certain distance. The cutter is installed on a sheet of drywall and moves along it, cutting both layers of cardboard at once. Round cutting parts are removable, so if necessary, they can be replaced with new ones. With this tool, you can make cuts, separating perfectly even strips up to 120 mm wide from the whole sheet, which is often necessary when using drywall to form multi-level ceilings and other structures where narrow strips of perfectly even and uniform size are needed. The handle of the tool simultaneously serves as a guide - the required cutting width is set from it. Next, the cutter is installed on the end of the sheet, and moved from beginning to end along its entire length.
	The Blade Runne drywall cutter is a tool that is known mainly among professional craftsmen. This is not an ordinary tool that can speed up the cutting process by half. From which we can conclude that such a device is necessary if you have to deal with constantly cutting a large number of drywall sheets. The tool consists of two detachable parts, which are held together during operation by means of magnetic clamps. The blades are located in small blocks located in two parts of the body. If necessary, the cutting elements can be replaced. It is quite easy to make cuts with this tool - the halves of the tool are separated and installed on both sides of the sheet on a line previously marked on it. Then, the cutter moves along a given reference point, cutting the cardboard layer from two sides at once. Thanks to this tool, you can make both perfectly smooth and complex curved cuts. The main thing is that the marking lines applied to the sheet are clear and accurate.

Now, having figured out which knife designs are most often used for cutting drywall, you can decide on the choice of the main tool for the job. This takes into account the scope of the material, the required shapes and sizes of workpieces, the required level of accuracy. And, of course, the cost of the tool is compared with the scale of the tasks ahead, with the intensity of its use.

Basic technological methods for cutting drywall and processing blanks

The cutting of drywall itself is quite simple. But for that to it was convenient to work, and the markings and cuts turned out to be accurate, it is necessary that the room where the cutting takes place be well lit and free enough.

The main technological methods for cutting drywall sheets and processing blanks are shown in the instruction table below:

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	The plasterboard sheet is large enough, and for marking and cutting it must be laid horizontally on a solid base. It is clear that not everyone has such a spacious workbench. Someone places a sheet on the floor, others adapt tables or stools for this purpose. If the latter are used for supports, then they must be placed close to each other, at a distance of no more than 300 mm, otherwise, when pressing on the sheet, it may break.
	On a sheet laid on a solid base, markings are made according to the required dimensions. For this purpose, a tape measure and a pencil, a ruler, etc. are used. A metal ruler or a long rule is applied to the marked marks and a line is drawn along which the cut will be made. Often, for beating strictly perpendicular lines, one cannot do without a square.
	Further, close to the ruler, a knife blade is installed on the drawn line and drawn along the entire length of the guide. Using the rule as a ruler is more convenient in cases where the sheet needs to be cut along the entire length or width. A slight pressure is applied to the blade, so that only the outer layer of cardboard is cut.
	If one of the types of knives discussed above is used to cut the sheet, then the evenness of the cut largely depends on the hardness of the master's hand. However, in any case, you should not try to cut drywall to its full thickness, because even if you manage to do this, the cut will turn out to be sloppy. And in vain to blunt the blade is useless.
	Then the sheet of drywall must be moved closer to the edge of the base on which it lies, and gently tap the cut on the back of the sheet. As a result of tapping, the gypsum layer along the cut line will lose its integrity. Next, you need to grab the cut off part of the sheet and sharply bend it down, so that the gypsum layer will break exactly along the line.
	It remains to take a knife, bend the sheet along the cut line and finally divide it into two parts. It will not be difficult to do this, since the halves will be held only by one layer of cardboard, which is cut along the break line. To do this, you do not even have to turn the sheet.
	After the sheet has been divided, the edges of the cuts can be cleaned using a special or ordinary planer, as sloppy notches may remain on it, which will become an obstacle when joining the sheets on the wall. Chamfering must be done without strong pressure, as the material may begin to crumble. However, it is not necessary to achieve the ideal shape of the edge, it is enough to remove strongly protruding parts and irregularities of the cardboard if they were formed during cutting. And the bevelled chamfer - for high-quality reinforcement of the joints between the sheets of drywall on the wall, can be cut through after their installation - otherwise, in the process, it is easy to destroy the edge of the sheet refined and unprotected by cardboard.
	It is somewhat more difficult to cut a figured hole, for example, a semicircle, since you have to constantly monitor the curved line. This process can be done with a narrow hacksaw or an electric jigsaw. The jigsaw makes a more accurate cut, but it is convenient for those craftsmen who have experience with this tool. It is very important to start the cut carefully without crushing the edge of the sheet, especially if there is no cardboard edge on it. Further, holding the hacksaw in the direction of the drawn line, the excess part of the drywall is carefully, slowly, cut out.
	Through openings of arbitrary shape are also cut with a hacksaw or jigsaw. First, the location of this window is marked on the surface of the sheet, then its edges are precisely defined by lines. In the middle of each side, closer to the inner, cut-out part, a hole is drilled - its diameter must correspond to the width of the saw blade installed in the electric jigsaw. Usually a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm is enough. Next, a jigsaw file is inserted into the hole (necessarily - in the off state!), And a line is cut to one of their corners. Then the jigsaw turns off, the file is pulled out after a complete stop, the jigsaw turns in the other direction, and is inserted again into the same hole, after which a cut is made to the opposite corner. In the same way, cuts are made on the other sides, and the cut fragment is easily removed.
	A round socket window for a socket or switch is cut out using a drill with a crown nozzle of the required diameter, a narrow hacksaw or a jigsaw. The easiest way to perform this operation is with a drill-crown, and this procedure will take just a few seconds. Any openings are cut most often already in place, that is, after fixing the sheet to the crate, since the strength of the sheet is violated, and often even a slight skew during transportation or installation leads to a break. And to outline a round opening is very simple - you don’t have to make any precise constructions - it’s enough to determine the center of the circle.
	If it is planned to cut a hole with a hacksaw or a jigsaw, then the center is determined, and a cutting line is drawn using an ordinary compass. Then, two holes are drilled on the line with a drill, as close as possible to each other. Next, the hole must be carefully combined with a file and continue cutting along the contour line. But, you see, the crown is much more convenient, and it costs - not at all expensive.
	If necessary, sheathe curved surfaces with drywall, the material can be bent, having previously carried out some preparatory operations. For example, if you intend to make a slight bend for arch lining with a large radius, then two ways to give the drywall the desired shape will do.
	You can make punctures on it with a needle roller, then moisten the sheet with a spray gun. The material, when wet, will become more pliable for bending. Without waiting for drying, it is mounted on an arched frame, which must be done very carefully.
	Some masters prefer to bend the pierced and moistened drywall according to a template made according to the parameters of the arched opening. To do this, the prepared sheet is placed on top of the template, slightly pressing its edges with a load. In this position, the sheet is dried, and then mounted on the frame of the arched opening.
	Another option that will help give drywall the desired shape is to make cuts along the entire length of the sheet needed for sheathing. The cuts must be perfectly even. If it is necessary to form a column from a plasterboard sheet or sheathe it with an arched opening having a small bending radius, then cuts are also made along the entire length of the sheet, but with two oncoming passes at an angle at the top of 100 ÷ 110 degrees. That is, a small section of material is removed from such cuts, and the resulting groove itself should have a shape close to a triangle in cross section. Otherwise, the sheet cannot be bent.

In conclusion, I would like to give a few tips that will help you cope with the task without making fatal mistakes.

• You should not cut drywall with a grinder, as there will be not only a lot of noise, but also a cloud of gypsum dust, which will add problems with cleaning the room. Yes, and there is no sense at all in such an approach, to be honest.
• If it is necessary to use a hammer when cutting the material, you can only use a rubber mallet, since drywall can be seriously damaged with a metal tool. And, of course, carefully measure the strength of the strikes.
• In order to have fewer notches along the cut line at the edges of the sheet, it is recommended to hold the hacksaw or knife at a right angle - the lower the blade slope, the larger the cardboard tatters will be.
• All main cuts are made before attaching the material to the crate, since if the cut is unsuccessful, then the sheet will have to be replaced with a new one, and the damaged one can be used for inserts. The exception is windows and openings - it is better to cut them out in place installation, after fixing to the frame.
• It is not recommended to cut complex patterns with thin partitions in drywall, for example, openwork nets, since the material is quite fragile.
• If a whole sheet is cut, then most often this process is carried out on the floor. After the cut is made, a beam is placed under the drywall along its line. Then you need to press on both parts of the canvas, which will easily break along the cut line.

drywall knife prices

drywall knife

From the information presented above, a logical conclusion suggests itself that there is nothing particularly difficult in the process of cutting drywall sheets. And this work can easily be done by anyone with no experience in construction. If there are any doubts, then you can try your hand at a small piece of material and see how simple everything is if you follow the technological recommendations and wield a quality tool.

Find out, with step-by-step instructions, from our new article on our portal.

At the end of the publication - a video in which the craftsmen demonstrate the techniques for cutting drywall.

Video: How to cut drywall quickly and efficiently