How to properly distribute wooden slats under drywall. Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame

Drywall today takes pride of place and is very popular in construction and repair work. Often, partitions are built to redevelop an apartment, and drywall is simply irreplaceable here. The list of advantages is significant: GKL are quite light, the construction speed is high, and the cost is relatively inexpensive. Very often, drywall is installed on a wooden frame.

Plasterboard partitions

Pine species are often used as the material for the manufacture of a wooden frame for the construction of a plasterboard structure. Such structures can be used as a room partition. What features does a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame have?

The starting stage in the construction of the structure is the installation of the strapping. The bars are fastened in the following order: ceiling-half-wall. If there are wooden floors in the room, then it is easy to fix the bars with simple nails. For 6 cm slats, 10 cm nails are recommended. If the walls are made of materials such as concrete or brick, plus a layer of plaster, then it will be a little more difficult to fix. In this case, fastening is carried out with anchors to the ceiling and dowels to the wall and floor.

Fastening is recommended to start from the ceiling, having previously marked the place of the future partition. Once the bars are fixed on the ceiling, you can mark the floor and continue mounting. It is important to make the markup correctly, you can use a level or a laser level.

When marking, you need to make at least 3 marks on the floor: one on each wall and one in the middle, you can do more, they will not be superfluous, especially since they will not be visible. After the floor beam is fixed, you need to check its position relative to the ceiling.

After you are convinced of the accuracy of the fasteners, you can proceed to fastening the timber to the wall. Everything is much easier here: connect the ceiling with the floor vertical strapping bars. Subsequently, it is on the vertical racks that the main load will fall, so it is extremely important to fix it well. It is equally important to observe the distance between the vertical bars - no more than 40 cm.

Before you begin to strengthen the structure, you need to assess how strong the walls are.

If you are dealing with walls made of fragile materials (cellular concrete, drywall, and so on), you need the largest dowels. It is allowed to use both dowel nails and special dowels. A variant of the following fastening is possible: drill holes in the wall, drive wooden plugs into them, into which you can subsequently screw screws or hammer nails.

Another way to attach the strapping: take straight hangers (usually these are used when installing a metal frame) and fasten the bars with them. This option is perfect if the walls are quite strong.

Once the harness is installed, you can proceed to the installation of racks. Usually the distance between the racks is 60 cm, which is very convenient - later the GKL of standard width (120 cm) can be fixed on 2 racks, which facilitates the installation of drywall.

Installation of racks is carried out using wooden bars, screwed to the rack and strapping with screws. You can mount racks and metal corners.

If the partition has a doorway, then you need to add the number of racks, as well as jumpers horizontally. If it is possible to do without communications in the partition, then this is excellent. If you still need electrical wiring, then the wires should be placed in a protective tube or use a tin box.

Partition wall insulation: the nuances

Sometimes you can’t do without additional insulation in a building, especially if the partition is not decorative. Installation of insulating materials is carried out when plasterboard sheathing is made on one side of the wooden frame. Mineral wool and foam materials are considered the optimal insulation material.

Insulation is quite easy to perform, since the dimensions of the distance between the racks and materials are the same. It remains only to lay the material and fix it. If a rigid material is chosen as insulation, then its fastening must be carried out on the inside of an already lined partition. If cavities are formed during installation, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of materials will give a high soundproofing effect.

Often, in the process of facing the second side with plates, a problem arises on the racks in the form of cracks. This is due to the large number of screws. It is easy to avoid such a mistake if the joints of the plates on the walls are made from opposite sides (for example, the 1st side is sheathed on the left, the 2nd on the right).

It is important to remember that a small gap of 1-2 cm must be left between the ceiling and the top of the drywall. The need is that the gypsum in the slab may begin to crumble. The gap will not be noticeable, it is easily closed with a simple plinth.

Extended baffle

There are also extended partitions when the installation of drywall is carried out on a double wooden frame. The advantage of this type of construction is that it is possible to lay communications and even install heating radiators.

The differences in the construction of an extended partition are that the strapping will need to be done from 2 sides, leaving the distance that is necessary for communications. A wooden frame is built according to the same principles as a simple partition. As soon as the sheathing is completed on one side, the necessary communications can be laid. The wires must be in a pipe or box.

If there is a need to install a battery, then it should not be installed in the middle of the structure, but closer to one of the sides. Do not forget about the ventilation holes, then they need to be closed with plastic bars. It must be remembered that if you install a battery, then it is impossible to insulate the partition with foam rubber or foam. Mineral wool will perfectly cope with the task. After laying communications, the installation process looks similar to a simple partition.

Mounting on an uneven wall

Not always the room can differ in perfectly smooth walls. The installation of the frame in this case looks a little different. It’s worth starting with identifying irregularities: the beam is placed on the floor along the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Next comes the markings for future racks at a distance of 60 cm. The next step: the rack bar must be pressed against the wall vertically and at regular intervals mark the position of the butt behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to place the support beam evenly, because vertical bars will be attached to it further. To align the racks, you can take scraps of fiberboard, wood or plywood.

You can do the installation of drywall with your own hands, having an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat should happen. It is important to follow a certain algorithm of actions, there is no need to rush here, because it will not be so easy to correct mistakes later. Before the process, you need to make all the necessary measurements and calculations, stock up on the entire set of material and tools that you need. For example:

  • screwdriver;
  • roulette;
  • pencil;
  • hacksaw;
  • metal scissors;
  • drill;
  • level.

But the most basic, perhaps, moment in the construction of a plasterboard partition is the documentation for permission. It is not recommended to start work before you have received all the necessary permits.

For leveling or redevelopment of living space, partitions made of GVL or drywall are used. GKL win against the background of brick and block partitions in that they are light, the equipment of such structures is quick and simple, and after completion of work there is little dirt and dust left. GKL and GVL are economical, good heat and sound insulation.

In addition to the standard GKL, there are such types of material:

  • moisture resistant;
  • fire resistant;

Moisture-resistant is used in places with high humidity, fire-resistant is used for other rooms (kitchen, office space).

GKL is great for finishing living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the microclimate of the room in a natural way.

Moisture resistant drywall

For durable structures, GVL is used. These are gypsum-fiber sheets that are stronger than drywall. GVL is made from building gypsum with additives. GVL is an environmentally friendly material for dry construction, it does not have a cardboard shell, like drywall. But there are such disadvantages of using GVL:

  • GVL is heavier than GKL;
  • costs more.

Characteristics of a wooden frame

GCR fastening to a wooden frame is often used.

A timber frame is cheaper than a metal one, it is made from wooden planks and bars, softwood is usually used. Bars with a section of 40 * 40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where massive objects (mirror or cabinet) will be on the wall.

Material requirements:

  • The moisture content of wood is from 12 to 18%;
  • Fire treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety;
  • The wall thickness should not exceed 132 mm.

Before use, wooden slats are treated with protective agents against fire and pests, looked through for knots and irregularities.

Base fixing

Screwing drywall parts onto wooden slats must be carried out in residential and dry buildings. The frame is assembled in accordance with the vertical and horizontal levels, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.

Construction tools:

  • a hammer;
  • perforator;
  • nails;
  • building level;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • mounting dowels;
  • metal corners.

If the design needs additional insulation, then this is done during assembly.


Base fastening technology

Stages of work:

  • The partition is preliminarily marked on the ceiling with the help of a level, then the wooden frame is fixed;
  • Fix the strapping bars, starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, and after it - the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coatings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws will do). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then fastening is done with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
  • Having fixed the bars on the ceiling, they make markings on the floor (at least three marks) and continue to mount the frame.
  • After checking the compliance of the fasteners with respect to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides with vertical bars. The distance between them is observed at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these bars with high quality, since the main load will fall on them.
  • After installing the verticals, the racks are fixed to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides for 3-4 holes.

Mounting GKL on the base

Begin sheathing from solid sheets or the largest pieces. They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the bars every 25-30 centimeters.


Facing

When sheathed with material on only one side, then the insulation is laid and the electrical wiring is pulled before installing the top layer.

During the installation of the other side, the insulation is laid as needed. It is better to do without pulling cables, but if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.

If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of posts and horizontal lintels.

Tips for beginners:

  • When mounting the second side of the wall, move the sheet one step so that the structure is strong;
  • To avoid problems during fastening, make sure that the joints of the gypsum plasterboard fall exactly in the middle of the vertical racks.

isolation

Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally isolating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing complicated in this, it is enough to lay and fix the material.


Structural insulation

For this, mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene is suitable. Rigid material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.

Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.

Read also: Arrangement of an apartment building.

Working with irregularities

If suddenly the base is uneven, the unevenness should be identified with the help of a beam. For this:

  • Lay a beam along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
  • Vertically lean the rack wood beam, mark at regular intervals the location of the butt behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to install the frame evenly so that the whole structure comes out even.

If there are difficulties with plasterboard sheathing, the video will help:

Advantages of using GKL

This material has a number of advantages over other raw materials:

  • low cost and assembly costs;
  • little weight;
  • fast installation;
  • the best sound and heat insulation;
  • the ability to use even in freezing rooms;
  • wall alignment;
  • installation of drywall does not require additional preparation of the base;
  • after installation, there is little debris and dust left.

If everything is done correctly, as a final touch, it remains to complete the decorative wall decoration. And drywall constructions will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.

In contact with

To work with drywall sheets, you often need to make a frame. It is mainly made from, but sometimes you can use ecological material - wood. Drywall on a wooden frame is mounted in the case of 100% certainty that the tree will not be deformed from moisture and the wooden blocks will be treated from pests.


For the installation of drywall using a frame made of wood and metal profiles

The tree tends to change its size with sudden changes in temperature, with high humidity. When sheathing the frame with drywall, during its finishing, the wood frame will breathe air that penetrates into the section between the wall and drywall. Therefore, first of all, a wooden frame for drywall is mounted in a room where the walls are dry and there is no moisture. The use of wood saves space, this has always been an important point. Every person wants to leave the space of the room.

Very often, a wooden frame is placed in private wooden houses and in houses made of logs. With proper treatment of wood, it will last a long time.

There is a method of attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling (wall) without a frame. In this case, a number of facts should be taken into account:

  1. Wood quality.
  2. Room humidity.
  3. Wood processing.

The tree "breathes", so it is likely that the drywall will deform or burst. Therefore, before attaching to the wooden base of the ceiling, you should carefully consider this step.

For greater confidence in the guarantee of a wooden frame, the timber is treated with drying oil. In this case, it does not swell when exposed to moisture and does not shrink in dry and hot air.

In dry rooms, it is possible to create a partition based on a wooden frame sheathed with plasterboard.

Necessary tools and material in the work

To work with a wooden beam, tools and materials are needed, without which it is impossible to make a wooden frame with your own hands:

  1. Ordinary hammer.
  2. A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver.
  3. Construction knife and blade set.
  4. Drill, if the walls are made of concrete or brick.
  5. Saw.
  6. Meter or tape measure.
  7. Ruler and pencil.
  8. Laser level or normal.
  9. Dowels, wood screws and ordinary screws.

  • Drying oil or other antiseptic solution for wood processing.
  • Primer, preferably with additives.
  • Insulating material - polystyrene foam, mineral wool.
  • Putty, reinforced tape.
  • Roller, brush.
  • A set of spatulas.

Selection and preparation of wood for the frame

In order to make a frame from a wooden beam with your own hands, you need to choose the type of wood. Not every tree will fit this design. The best option is needles.

Read also

Fixing heavy objects to drywall

In order for the tree not to succumb to the influence of external factors, and also so that pests do not start, wooden blocks should be processed:

  • Sodium fluoride. This antiseptic penetrates deep into the tissues of the tree. Does not contain impurities toxic to humans, does not smell;
  • Fluorosilicic sodium. Soda ash is added.

It is forbidden to process a tree for a dwelling with such means: coal, slate substances. For humans, these drugs are dangerous. Before starting the installation of the frame, the tree should be in the room for several days.

Surface preparation

When starting to install a frame made of wooden bars, you should prepare the surface. For this you will need:



Cleaning the wall from the old finish

A very important point is the preparation of the surface and the identification of wet spots. The wall must be dry and even.

markup

Marking is applied to the prepared dry wall and a drawing is made for the future design:

  • measure the length and height of the wall on which the structure will be made;
  • using these numbers, the perimeter of the room is calculated (the length must be multiplied by the height);
  • all received numbers are transferred to a sheet of paper. First, on paper, and on the wall, horizontal and vertical lines are drawn, along which the bars for the frame under the drywall will be laid;
  • fixing points should be noted.

With the help of the drawing made and the markings applied, the frame will turn out to be even and rigid (without movements and vibrations).

Wooden frame assembly

Before you start fixing the wooden beams with your own hands, for the future frame, you need to use plumb lines to beat off points on the ceiling and on the floor, which will form a clearly horizontal surface. Now:


Read also

Required distance between profiles under drywall

Each step taken in the manufacture of the frame should be checked with a level and compared with plumb lines. The entire structure should be checked for the quality of rigidity, the “floating” structure is unreliable and will not last long.

Fastening drywall to the finished frame

The next step is to install drywall on a wooden frame. Sheathing begins with whole sheets. Drywall is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Mounting step 30 cm.

The joints of the sheets horizontally should be in a checkerboard pattern, that is, one sheet is even, the second is cut by 20 cm and when attached it will be lower, the cut-off GKL bar should be attached at the very top. The open area should be sealed with drywall cut to size. The edge of the drywall sheet should be exactly along the wooden beam.

Finishing

After the step of sheathing the GKL of the wooden structure, the next step is the finishing of the GKL. First you need to process and seal the seams. If a chamfer was not made during plasterboard sheathing, then grooves should be cut with a construction knife at the joints of the sheets, with a depth of about 0.5–0.8 mm. These grooves should be cleaned of excess cardboard and treated with a primer. For such work, a brush is suitable. The primer must be completely dry before proceeding with gluing with reinforced tape and sealing putty.

Putty should be applied in a thin layer, covering not only the seam with the tape, but also the attachment points. After the putty has dried, all excess pebbles-stripes are removed with sandpaper. The sealed seams should be in the same plane with the entire surface (do not protrude).

After the putty has dried, the entire drywall surface should be treated with a primer mixture. This will improve the adhesion of the putty and prevent moisture from penetrating into the GCR.

After puttying the surface, as well as complete drying, the entire surface should be rubbed with sandpaper.

Now the plasterboard wall based on a wooden frame is completely ready for further decoration.

Working with GCR, a variety of materials are used. More often, builders prefer frames made of metal profiles. But there are also floors made of wood.

Drywall finishing of a wooden house

Some prefer to use wooden floors because of the environmental friendliness of the material, despite the shortcomings. These are: biological corrosion, susceptibility to climatic influences and combustibility. Special processing will increase resistance to the listed influences. When making a wooden frame for drywall, you should know the important points that ensure reliability.


Installed frame for plasterboard sheathing

For the construction of a partition with their own hands, they use beams of coniferous trees with various section sizes, the choice of which depends on the method of sheathing and the height of the partition being erected.

The main requirements, under which the design will last longer:

  • The humidity level in the room is less than or equal to 18%;
  • For partitions, the height of which does not exceed 3 meters, the riser is a section of 6x5 cm, the crate is 6x4 cm;
  • For partitions over 3 m - crate and riser with the same section, which is 6x5 cm.
  • The choice of drywall depends on the height of the partition. The ratio of the height and thickness of the sheet is directly proportional, the higher the structure, the thicker the drywall;
  • Regardless of the chosen height, section and thickness, the step is 60 cm;
  • Processing that reduces the ignition index of the material is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the first fire safety group;
  • Fastenings are carried out using nails, screws, spikes. Using the latest type of fastener, the connection becomes stronger and will last longer;
  • For sound insulation use mineral wool with a thickness of at least 5 cm and not more than 6 cm;
  • The thickness of the new partition with the highest value of 132 mm and the lowest value of 85 mm;
  • The calculation of the insulation index is based on the selected thickness of the partition. It varies between 41 - 51.

Do-it-yourself drywall finishing

Before starting the installation, the wood lies for a couple of days in the conditions in which the frame will be erected. During this time, she will acclimatize.

Chemical treatment is no less important stage than fire fighting. It is aimed at a productive struggle with a variety of factors of biological origin. Let's consider in detail:

  • Mold and fungus render the lumber used unusable, which is further fraught with destruction;
  • Natural decay - necrobiosis, decay. Antiseptic treatment prevents these natural processes;
  • Insects. Many species of these representatives of the fauna make the material unusable;
  • Rodents are no less dangerous. A special composition is able to scare them away.

antiseptic

Antiseptics are a variety of chemical compositions. Due to efficiency, preference is given to sodium fluoride. It is a light gray powder that dissolves in hot water. The structure of the bars allows sodium to penetrate deeper. The indisputable priority is the poor washability of the solution, it does not decompose, has no unpleasant odor, is non-toxic and does not have a corrosive effect on the metal.

Sodium silicofluoride is also used, to which soda ash is added. This combination turns the first substance into a pure composition of sodium fluoride.

Antiseptics with an oily structure are prohibited for use in residential areas. This is:

  • Anthracene oils;
  • Shale;
  • Carboniferous;
  • Creosote.

They are toxic and can cause considerable harm to people.


Wood damaged by insects

Partition frame assembly

Installation begins with tracing - markup. It is applied to the floors used for the construction - walls, floor, ceiling. Initially, the gap is measured on which the partition will be placed. From the intended line, the width of the GKL used is additionally measured.

For these purposes, it is advisable to use the ceiling-wall line. Having outlined the required point on the ceiling, it is transferred down, it is easy to do it yourself using a plumb line. At the selected point, a nail is hammered, to which the plumb line clings, at the opposite point, where the plumb line points, a mark is made. Connecting the dots forms the first line. Then a perpendicular is drawn along the wall.

The resulting point, after drawing the perpendicular, is transferred to the ceiling using the same plumb line or bubble level. Thus, the third line is obtained. The fourth is created by connecting two open points. As a result, a rectangle comes out, which acts as the basis for the partition.


tracing

Frame and features of its installation

Frame - a structure consisting of vertically and horizontally arranged bars and a frame. Its installation begins with the construction of the frame. The bars are fixed along the lines outlined earlier. If the walls in the room are made of wood, then it is better to choose spikes or self-tapping screws as fasteners. Otherwise, it's screws and dowels. The frame is fastened with brackets or hangers.

Installation involves the use of integral bars. Especially when it comes to a doorway. Wherever it is located (in the middle or near the wall), solid bars must be on its sides. Holes are made with an impact drill used for concrete surfaces.

Shaping the future door

After the installation of the frame is completed, proceed to the construction of the opening for the door. In order for the work to be done with your own hands, follow the sequence of actions:

  • Risers are mounted on each side of the opening, taking into account the size of the installed door. The opening is about 5 cm wider;
  • The risers are reinforced with bars to give additional rigidity;
  • The horizontal partition is mounted a couple of centimeters above the box by connecting to a rail mounted on the ceiling. To do this, take two beams and set them vertically. They serve as a docking point for the GKL and give greater rigidity.

Finished frame

Final stage of work

Installation assumes the presence of a step between the racks of 60 cm, at least. If the size of the drywall is less than the height of the ceilings, horizontal jumpers are installed, which will serve as a place for attaching additional sheets.

Determining the location of the vertical jumper (above the door frame) is easy. It is enough to attach the installed GKL and put a mark. The edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the jumper.

For people who do the installation with their own hands, the masters give advice: it is better to connect the bars with metal plates and corners that are used in the assembly of truss systems. They are reliable and withstand heavy loads.

Observe the horizontal and vertical jumpers and racks. To determine them, use the level. When installing the racks with your own hands, they are placed so that the maximum number of whole sheets of drywall is attached to the wall. This saves material and time.

It is easy to assemble such a wooden structure with your own hands, without the help of a second person. The technology of cladding the GKL of a wooden frame is similar to that in the case of working with a metal structure. Doubters can watch the video and see the truth of these words.

For the construction of wooden partitions, high quality lumber is used.

Insulation needed

If the partition performs not only a decorative function, the craftsmen advise to insulate it. Installation of insulation is carried out after sheathing with sheets of gypsum plasterboard on one side of the wooden structure. Foam materials or mineral wool are most often used.

Doing this step with your own hands is not difficult, because the distance between the material and the racks is almost the same. The material is laid and fixed. Rigid insulating materials are fixed to the inside of the lined partition. If cavities are found during installation, they must be filled with mineral wool. This combination will give the partitions an additional soundproofing effect.

In contact with

Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame produced only in rooms with low or normal humidity. The technology of wall cladding on wood cannot be attributed to outdated technologies. It is actively promoted by the company Knauf and is recommended for wooden and brick houses of individual construction.

Wall cladding with drywall on a wooden frame - disadvantages

Wall cladding with drywall on a wooden frame has a number of disadvantages.

  • The frame is made of wooden beams, subject to decay. Over time, such wood cladding begins to warp and violate its integrity.
  • For the frame, you need to look for only a dry and absolutely even timber. And such a bar is not only hard to find, but also its considerable cost.

Despite the shortcomings, wall cladding on a wooden frame, both used and used, to this day. Needless to say, this is a rarity.

Preliminary work

  • Before facing the wall, lay all utilities on the lined wall, namely, lay electrical wiring under the drywall and / or plumbing in the drywall structure (if any).
  • Wiring can be laid openly, in a corrugation or a box. Then, when installing the frame, it will be necessary to cut out places for electrical wiring and / and water pipes in the bars of the frame.

To work at height, you can use construction towers-tours. They are easy to assemble and disassemble. They create a convenient high-altitude platform, are easily transferred from place to place. For example, ARIS prefabricated towers up to five meters high are assembled by one person in 20-30 minutes. You can see the ARIS tower tours.

Frame manufacturing

  • For the frame, a dry, even beam measuring 50 × 25 and 75 × 25 mm is used.
  • The 75x25mm beam should hit the edge of the gypsum board, and the 50x25 beam should support the sheet over the surface.
  • The timber frame is attached directly to the wall of the room. For fastening, nails are used (if the wall is wooden or plaster) or a dowel - nails (if the wall is concrete) or plastic dowels and screws (if the wall is brick).
  • If fastening standard drywall fasteners are used. Fasteners are made on dowels and screws, then the holes for fastening are drilled in advance. The distance between the fasteners is 500 mm.
  • When fastening on dowel-nails, the beam is drilled together with the wall and the dowel-nail is hammered into the hole. The distance between them is also 500 mm.
  • First, horizontal bars are attached, near the ceiling and near the floor. After fixing them, we move on to vertical racks. The first beam is attached to the corner.
  • For convenience and correct calculation, bars are first attached, which will fall on the edge of the drywall sheet. Their size is 75×25 mm. Since the width of the gypsum board is 1200 mm, the step between the bars should be 1200-1205 mm (with a single-layer cladding).

  • With a two-layer cladding, the number of bars 75 × 50 is doubled, and the second layer of drywall is attached to the frame with an offset of half the sheet, both vertically and horizontally.
  • Of course, you can not bother with buying different timber and for simplicity, buy a bar of the same size: 75 × 25 mm.
  • After fixing these bars, bars of 50 × 25 mm are attached between them. The step between them is 400 mm. With a two-layer cladding, the step between the uprights increases to 600 mm and their number decreases.

Wood frame processing

The finished wooden frame must be treated with an antiseptic composition. This treatment will increase the life of the frame and save it from decay.

Wood frame insulation

Before fixing drywall, you need to insulate the wooden frame. For insulation and simultaneous sound insulation, mineral wool-based heaters or polystyrene foam slabs or basalt slabs are used.

Plates are laid between vertical bars.

Frame vapor barrier

After laying the heat insulator, the frame must be closed with a vapor barrier film. The film should cover the entire frame structure. The vapor barrier is nailed to the bars with staples with a construction stapler.

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After fixing the vapor barrier, you can proceed to fixing drywall.

Fastening drywall sheets to a wooden frame

When attaching drywall sheets, the following rules are observed:

  • There should be a distance of 10 mm from the sheet to the floor and ceiling.
  • The distance between the sheet fixing screws must be 250 mm.

  • Some experts believe that a distance of 5 mm should be left between the sheets. It's too much. For puttying joints, it is better to buy a sheet of drywall with a thinned edge (UK) or make a chamfer on the edge of the sheet manually.
  • With a two-layer cladding, the sheets of the two layers are displaced both vertically and horizontally. The distance between the wooden posts is 600 mm, which corresponds to half of the plasterboard.

To maintain a 10 mm gap between the floor and the sheet, prepare the pads under the sheet in advance.

Technology for attaching a sheet to a wooden frame

  • Lay 10 mm of lining on the floor near the frame.
  • Bring the sheet of drywall up to the frame, lay the edge of the sheet on the spacer and lift the sheet.
  • Fasten the sheet with TB type screws with a drill on the end. Distance between screws 250 mm.

Of course, a strip will remain on the wall, on which neither half nor a full sheet of drywall will fit. In this case, cut the drywall sheet to size and attach it to the frame. When attaching drywall sheets, do not forget about the electrical wiring in the structure. Immediately cut round holes in the sheets for mounting boxes for hidden sockets or simply lead the wires out from under the cladding to install surface sockets.

That's all! Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame is completed.

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