Projects of two-story baths 5 to 6. Two-story bath from foam blocks

In this article, we bring to your attention a very successful project. two-story bath with a terrace, if desired, you can install a heating boiler in the future and use the building all year round. The dimensions of the bath are 6 × 6 m, which makes it possible to have enough space for comfortable living. On the ground floor there is a steam room (3.4 m2), a sink (4.3 m2), a lounge (16.7 m2). The second floor is reserved for two bedrooms, one of them is large and designed for two people. In the hall of the second floor, you can place wardrobes for clothes.

From the first to the second floor there is a marching revolving staircase.

By the way, we have not yet considered in detail the construction of stairs, for ordinary baths there was no such need. In the article we will talk in detail about the construction of stairs and we assure you that it is not so difficult to make it with desire and patience.

A brief description of the design features and materials used for a two-story bath

For the manufacture of the log house, sawn timber 150 × 150 mm was used, roofing– ondulin, sheathing of internal and external walls from natural lining. For the facade, you can replace the natural lining with cheaper materials.

Foundation tape shallow reinforced.

The lower strapping row is made of timber impregnated with antiseptics 150 × 150 mm. Logs require boards 50 × 150 mm, lag pitch 60 cm. To install the subfloor under the insulation of the first floor, cranial bars 50 × 50 mm are attached, they are nailed to the sides of the floor beams.

A log house made of sawn timber 150 × 150 mm, it is desirable to impregnate the strapping row with antiseptics. In the underground of the bath is very damp, additional protection will provide an opportunity to reliably protect wooden elements from damage.

Floor beams and rafters are made of boards 50 × 150 mm, pitch 80 centimeters. For the crate, you can take slats 20 × 50 mm or unedged boards 20 mm thick.

The roof is insulated. It is not advisable to make an unused attic on a two-story bath for economic reasons.

Mineral wool or glass wool is used as a heater.

It is worth talking a little about heaters. Manufacturers' advertising claims that only mineral "basalt" wool is the most best material, it does not prick, does not cause allergic reactions, etc. Due to such "outstanding properties" mineral wool all manufacturers have significantly increased its price.

What is it really? Basalt in its composition contains more than 50% glass, it is it that is the main component of basalt wool (as well as for glass wool), all other impurities are purified. Then what is the difference in chemical composition between ordinary glass wool and mineral?

Further, why is glass wool pricked, but mineral wool is not? And here everything is simple. Previously, technology did not allow glass fibers to be made very thin, because of this they had enough “strength” to create inconvenience. Today, glass wool can be made with very thin fibers, it is no longer prickly. Another point that manufacturers do not talk about.

At cost, the production of glass will cost much more than the use of finished volcanic glass (basalt). Then why is the price of mineral wool so much higher than glass wool? And here everything is simple. Advertising serves producers, not consumers. A competent advertising campaign made it possible to sell mineral wool much more than the cost of production, and due to this, profits increase. We stopped at cotton only to convince you not to blindly trust advertising, but to think when choosing materials. Conclusion: not everything that is more expensive has the best performance.

Video - Properties of Rockwool stone wool

Veneered boards 40 mm thick are used for gables, cornices and log corners are upholstered with clapboard. Four windows are installed in the gables, you can use plastic or make wooden ones. For self-manufacturing wooden windows you need solid knowledge and woodworking machines.

Gable roof truss system with vertical support posts, from above the legs are connected by a jumper.

Two top row the log house needs to be fixed with an increased number of dowels, it is better to use metal bars. The last row of the log house performs the function of a Mauerlat and will take significant lateral loads from the rafter legs.

Roof. Ondulin is used to cover the roof - an excellent coating in terms of quality and price.

Under this material, a crate is made of slats 20 × 50 mm, instead of slats, you can take unedged boards, used boards left after dismantling the foundation formwork, etc. Ondulin is fastened with special nails, you need to drive nails only into the upper part of the wave. Under the ondulin, it is imperative to put waterproofing, overlapping at least 10 centimeters, the insulation is fixed with a stapler.

It is imperative to install a rainwater drainage system; during its installation, do not damage the ondulin sheets, it does not have enough strength. Do not forget to make the slope of the drain trays approximately 3 ÷ 5 °, provide for the drainage of water from the foundation.

Stages of construction planning

As with every construction, the cost and quality of the work performed depends on the comprehensive observance of all stages. Hence the conclusion - you should not rush, it is much more profitable to plan and think everything over in advance, this will allow you to do the work much faster and cheaper.

Step 1. The choice of a specific location of the bath.

Wooden two-story bath has rigid fire safety requirements, when choosing a place, it is necessary to be guided by the provisions of SNiP 2.07.01–89. They regulate the minimum distances between adjacent buildings. Very important - failure to follow these rules will cause big problems during the registration of the building in government bodies self-government. One more nuance. The site should be as flat as possible, the physical characteristics of the soil should correspond to the indicators of the foundations. Compliance with these conditions will save significant funds in the production of earthworks.

SNiP 2.07.01–89 download. URBAN PLANNING. PLANNING AND DEVELOPMENT OF URBAN AND RURAL SETTLEMENTS .

Step 2 Foundation choice. We propose to use tape shallow reinforced foundation on a sand bed.

Quite good in all respects screw pile, this type of foundation can be used on any soil and in all climatic zones. The only drawback is that you cannot do it yourself, you need to contact specialized construction companies.

The advantages of a reinforced tape foundation on a sand cushion - with a shallow depth (within one meter), the building will be stable in various climatic zones. Stability is ensured by a sand cushion up to 30 cm thick. For reinforcement, building reinforcement of a periodic profile Ø 8 ÷ 10 mm can be used.

Step 3 Srub. Fold the log house from sawn timber 150 × 150 mm; tow or fiber can be used to insulate the crowns. Special difference in physical characteristics there is no difference between these materials, but working with fiber is much easier and faster. In addition, the amount of shrinkage of the structure decreases, and interior finishing work can be started faster.

Step 4 Floors. There are certain difficulties here. On the ground floor there is a bathhouse and a sink, their floors must be made of natural boards provide a water drainage system. In the rest room, you can lay floors using heaters. But be very careful - steam from hot water, pouring out of the steam room and sink, does not have time to quickly ventilate with air. This means that all underground wooden structures must be thoroughly impregnated with antiseptics, and the insulation of the floors of the rest room must be protected from the penetration of steam.

Video - Floor in the bath (board preparation)

Video - Do-it-yourself floor in the bath - installation

Video - Sex in the bath

Video - Installation and floor insulation

Step 5 Ceilings. The ceiling on the second floor are the elements of the roof, they are in without fail should be insulated with the use of steam and hydroprotection. Sheathing can be clapboard, plywood, OSB or drywall sheets.

On the first floor, the situation is different. All "professional builders" strongly recommend insulating the ceiling of the first floor (the floor of the second floor is installed on it), while describing how much insulation, vapor and waterproofing, etc. are needed. These materials are purchased from manufacturers at rather high prices.

A little physics first. The hot air in the ground floor rooms rises to the ceiling and heats it up. A warm ceiling transfers "degrees" to the floor of the second floor and turns it into a "heated" one, and for free. Insulation prevents heating the floor of the second floor with free energy. The question is, why insulate the ceiling on the first floor in order to lower the temperature on the second floor with your own hands and your own money? We recommend doing insulation only in one case: the first floor is not heated, and the second has autonomous system heating. In all other cases, no additional insulation should be done. This rule does not apply to the steam room, it has its own peculiarities.

Step 6 Steam room and washroom. Here, relative humidity and temperature are high, wooden structures are in a very difficult conditions. Most recently among vapor barrier materials aluminum foil has become widespread, it is strongly recommended to use it for all buildings without exception, including wooden ones. Manufacturers name only one advantage of the foil - absolute impermeability. It is strongly recommended to use it to isolate the steam room log from condensate, it is advised to install foil between the wall sheathing and the log house and between the ceiling sheathing and draft ceilings.

What do practitioners recommend? Condensation will necessarily form on the foil due to temperature differences and high humidity. Where will this condensate go? Constantly drip on finishing skin ceiling or drip onto the floor under the sheathing. At the same time, the slats to which the skin is attached, long time will be wet. O natural ventilation even theoretically it is not worth talking between the skin and the foil, it is completely absent in these places. What will happen to the constantly wet lining? That's it. We only advise and share our experience, the decision should be made by each developer independently.

In order to make it even easier for you to choose a construction technology, a few words should be said about all wooden buildings. Each article about these materials begins with the words that " wooden buildings breathe, this is their important advantage. Everything is correct. Only a tree does not “swallow air with its mouth”, but is able, due to the phenomenon of hygroscopicity, to transfer excess moisture from the premises to the outside and vice versa. If the humidity in the room is much less than outside, then the tree gradually equalizes the indicators. It is this process that should be kept in mind under the slang "the tree breathes".

Due to these properties, the moisture of wooden elements is constantly in optimal values, unless, of course, builders put their hand on it. How can a wall made of natural timber breathe if its surface is hermetically sealed with aluminum foil? Why do ordinary bathhouses in villages stand for many decades, although no modern technologies and materials were used in their construction? Only a few changes during renovation lower rims and the bathroom is like new again. We won’t need to change the crowns either, now it is possible to impregnate them with antiseptics. Only it is necessary to choose the right construction technology for each specific building and for each specific case.

"Liquid glassine" Processing of the lower rims and beams of the log house

We hope that now you will understand the acceptance algorithm optimal solutions during the determination of methods and materials for the construction of a two-story bath. Let's move on to one of the difficult structural elements- marching rotary stairs.

The ability to make such a ladder is useful not only (and not so much) in the construction of baths, but in our case we cannot do without it at all. For manufacturing, you will need boards 50 × 200 mm, 40 × 200 mm and 25 × 150 mm. Balusters and handrails are best purchased at a specialized store or ordered from a professional craftsman. All other work can be done independently.

Step 1. Calculation of the dimensions of the stairs.

Although for many this topic seems to be the most difficult, in fact it is the most simple work. During the calculations, existing recommendations are taken into account: in total, the height and width of the steps should be ≈ 47 centimeters, the width of the steps varies between 20 ÷ 32 cm, the height of the step is ≈18 cm. The width of the steps is 30 cm and the height of the riser is 15 cm. The angle of inclination of the stairs is ≈30°.

Of course, these are ideal dimensions, they do not always correspond to practical data. In our case, the total height of the stairs will be 250 (ceiling height) +20 (height ceiling) = 270 centimeters. This amount will be divided by optimal height each degree (18 cm) and get exactly 15 steps. If you get a number with a fraction, then the number of steps must be rounded to the nearest whole number, while the first step will be slightly higher or lower than the others. If you want to make all steps the same, you will have to use tenths of a millimeter during measurements.

Step 2. Take measurements.

You need to know the height of the stairs, the length of the stringers, strings and all the dimensions of the steps. Do not forget that the thickness of the boards is included in their dimensions. On the one hand, the bowstring rests against the supporting beam, on the other hand, the stringers are fixed to the wall.

Step 3 Make a step and riser template out of plywood, reevaluate their size and location.

Saw out the seats for the steps in the stringers, fasten the stringers to the wall and to support beam. Check the position of the stringers, if problems are found, correct them. The elements of the stairs are attached to the wall with strong self-tapping screws or nails.

Step 4 Under the template, cut out the blanks of steps and risers, grind the cut points, make chamfers and precisely fit all the individual parts to one size. In the bowstring, make landing nests for attaching steps. You can do them by hand (not very accurate for a long time) or use a manual electric router.

Step 5 Using a plumb line and level, check the spatial position of the stringers and the points of fastening of the bowstring. Begin to install steps in turn on the seats. If necessary, make final fit each element. Try to achieve such accuracy that the gaps at the joints completely disappear. Connect the elements of the stairs with self-tapping screws, sink the heads and close the holes. We strongly recommend that the joints be additionally coated with wood glue, this will be an additional guarantee that the stairs will not creak when walking over time.

Lastly, balusters and railings are attached. There are several ways to attach them, we will briefly talk about each of them, and you choose an acceptable option for yourself. The distance between the balusters should be within 30 cm, choose specific values ​​​​taking into account the width of the degrees. The height of the railing is ≈90 centimeters. Reliable fastening must be done at least in two points: to the railing and stringers or bowstrings. Some wide steps allow you to attach balusters to their end, but such options are very rare.

Terrace

This is where the knowledge gained during the manufacture of the stairs will come in handy. The length of our terrace is 3 m, width 1.5 m, vertical supports made of sawn timber 150×150 mm. The beam should be of the highest quality, choose it for supports even during the laying of the log house. Please note that there are no rotten knots and cracks on it, all four faces are parallel, there are no bends. The beam must be carefully sanded, sharp corners chamfered.

The upper part is connected to the bath strapping, Bottom part installed on the foundation, for waterproofing, use two layers of roofing material. Perfect option- the beam sits on the anchor, concreted during the pouring of the foundation. If it is difficult for you to accurately calculate the position of the anchor, then fix the vertical supports metal corners for screws and dowels.

Video - Installation of shrink jacks

Terrace fencing with balusters and railings. The fastening of the balusters is the same as we described for the stairs. There is only one difference - all cuts along the ends should not be made at an angle, but at an angle of 90 °. Carefully mark and drill holes, the balusters are attached to the dowels, do not forget to use wood glue.

Railings to vertical posts can be fastened with a spike (a rather complicated method) or with corners (the easiest method). We advise you to use the corners, according to their physical characteristics, they are more reliable than spiked ones. At the bottom of the railing and supports, you need to cut out the seats of the corners with a chisel, work very carefully, the dimensions seats must match the dimensions of the metal corners.

Video - Bath from a bar 6 x 6 m (turnkey)

Video - Do-it-yourself bath from a bar

Video - Bath from a bar with a terrace

Bases (piping) in two rows, made of unplaned (sawn) timber 100 × 150mm (for professional timber 90 × 140mm) - timber 150 × 150mm (for professional timber 140 × 140mm) - timber 200 × 150mm (for professional timber .beam 190×140mm). A ruberoid is laid between the first row of strapping and the foundation.

Exterior finish (cornices, gables) is done with galvanized nails.

Corner assembly in progress - B warm corner(thorn groove).

Ceiling height from the floor 1st floor - 2.25 cm ± 5 cm (16 rows of timber).

Ceiling height from the floor 2nd floor - 2.25 cm.

Roof - Gable (according to the project).

The height from the interfloor ceiling to the ridge is at least 3.40 cm.

Interfloor floors ( ceiling beams) - is made from a board with a section of 150 × 40 mm (in increments of 90 cm per edge).

Rafters (installed between interfloor ceilings) from a board with a section of 100 × 40 mm, (in 90 cm increments).

Floor of the 1st floor:
— A. Rough edged board 20-25mm. 1st grade 20-22 mm. It is laid across or along the genital lags on a cranial bar 40X50mm.

Walls made of profiled timber are not sheathed.

Partitions on the 2nd floor are missing.

Door and window openings 1st floor with bandaging of timber.

Under the under-lattice along the rafters, Izespan D film or analogs of equal characteristics are stretched. With a vein gap of 20 mm, if the roof is covered with metal tiles.

Approach (technological) of 2/4 steps, 1.5 m wide

Foundation - Column-point (cement blocks) 12 supports. Four blocks in one support.

The bases (piping) are two rows, made of unplaned (sawn) timber 100 × 150mm (for professional timber 90 × 140mm) - timber 150 × 150mm (for professional timber 140 × 140mm) - timber 200 × 150mm (for professional timber 140 × 140mm) timber 190×140mm). A ruberoid is laid between the first row of strapping and the foundation.

Log cabin (walls of the 1st floor) - Profiled beam 90 × 140mm, 140 × 140mm or 190 × 140mm with a crescent, it is possible to replace it with a straight-cut beam with an unloading cut. Upon agreement, specify the shape of the beam. Bar of natural humidity.

Floor logs are made of unplaned (sawn) timber - timber 100 × 150 mm. (in 60 cm increments)

The log house is assembled (knocked together) on a birch dowel

outdoor and interior decoration done with galvanized nails.

The assembly of corners is carried out - In a warm corner (thorn-groove)

A flax-jute cloth is laid between the crowns.

Partitions of the 1st floor - Profiled timber 90 × 140mm. Straight. Installation with chasing into main walls, 2-4 cm deep. Bar of natural humidity.

Roof overhang 0.30m is hemmed with clapboard. Ventilation grilles are installed on the gables.

Ceiling height from floor 1st floor -2.20cm±5cm (16 rows)

Ceiling height from the floor 2nd floor - 2.20 cm

Roof - Gable (according to the project)

Height from the interfloor ceiling to the ridge - at least 3.40 cm

Roof Ondulin (Red. Brown. Green) Upon agreement, specify the selected color.

Interfloor ceilings (ceiling beams) - made from unplaned boards 150 × 40 mm (in increments of 90 cm per edge)

Rafters (installed between interfloor ceilings) from a board with a section of 100 × 40mm, (in 90 cm increments)

Ceiling of the 1st floor:
- a. Hemmed with coniferous lining, dry lining of class B

Floor of the 1st floor:
Gender double:
- a. Rough edged board 20-25mm. Grade 1st (natural humidity). Thickness 20-22 mm. It is laid across or along the genital lags on a cranial bar 40 × 50 mm.
— b. Wind insulation Ondutis (izespan) or analogs equal in characteristics.
— c. Insulation Roll "Isover" 100 mm
— d. Finished tongue-and-groove floorboard 36 mm chamber drying(dry)
— e. When laying the floorboard, the boards are attached to the joists every fifth board, to enable the Customer to independently carry out the hauling of the floors after they have dried out over the years.

The doors are blind paneled. Hinges are included with the doors, as well as work on installing doors, fittings for paneled doors are not provided. Doors are installed according to the plan.

Doorways on both sides are trimmed with platbands from coniferous lining.

Floor in the attic - floor (tongue) board - 36mm (chamber drying). Installation according to the first floor.

Wooden double glazed windows (single-chamber) with fittings 1000×1200mm and 500×500mm. In the amount of the corresponding scheme of the house.

The walls of the 2nd floor are frame-panel, finished with clapboard, dry class B (chamber drying)

Window openings on both sides are trimmed with platbands made of coniferous lining.

Attic frame-panel
- a. Sheathed with coniferous clapboard - Dry clapboard class B (chamber drying)
— b. Insulation Roll "Isover" 100 mm
— c. Vapor barrier - Ondutis (izespan) or analogues equal in characteristics.

The first floor and the attic are connected by a single-flight staircase with a protective border. Finishing stairs: railings (carved), balusters - chiseled (volumetric). Starting poles are set. Steps planed board 40×200mm. The length of the march and the angle of inclination is determined by the availability of free space where it will be installed.

The junctions of the floor-wall, ceiling-wall, corners are trimmed with carved plinth.

Roof slats made of edged board 100×20mm, step 22 cm.

Under the under-lattice along the rafters, Izespan D film or analogs of equal characteristics are stretched. With a vein gap of 20 mm, if covered with metal tiles.

The pediments are frame-panel, upholstered on the outside with dry class B lining (chamber drying) with wind insulation.

When installing doors and windows, a space is left between the frame and the wall, for the shrinkage of the timber, this space is not insulated and does not foam.

External corners are sewn up with coniferous dry clapboard of class B (chamber drying)

Approach of 2/4 steps, 1.5m wide

Entrance metal door

In the steam room, the ceiling and walls are hemmed with a layer of foil from class A dry aspen lining.

Furnace - Not provided in the basic configuration. Selected individually.

A shower tray with a siphon (drain) outlet is installed in the sink.

In the steam room, a two-tiered aspen canopy is mounted. Vent.

The door to the steam room-Wedge (coniferous)

The frame two-story house-bath will be a great place to relax with family or friends on the weekends. Built from highly environmentally friendly natural materials, such a house will provide its residents with maximum comfort and functionality. From the point of view of the ratio of price and possible amenities, a bath 6x8 is considered optimal.

On its area it is quite possible to arrange a fairly spacious bath, shower room, utility rooms, small pool, gym, bedroom, loggia. Expenses land area and the money for the construction of such a house will be much lower than for the construction of an ordinary frame house with amenities and a separate bath.

The best projects of two-story frame houses-baths 6x8

The first step on the path of building or acquiring for recreation should be the selection or development of a project. Most often, the customer or owner is not able to independently design a bath house, taking into account all their needs, and is forced to turn to professionals for help.

For owners who are not very demanding on the uniqueness of the structure of the structure, there are many standard projects, on which you can build your house for free.

The most popular typical projects are:

• Residential house-bath. The project is designed for year-round full-fledged living of a small family. On the ground floor there is a bathhouse (steam room, shower room, bathroom), small room rest (dressing room or dressing room), a spacious kitchen, a hall with stairs and a veranda with access to the outside. In the attic there are 2 living rooms and a spacious loggia.
• House-bath for a noisy holiday with a large friendly company. On the ground floor there is a terrace to sit on fresh air hiding from the sun. Guests will appreciate the large bath rooms and a spacious relaxation room, which can be equipped with a swimming pool or exercise equipment. The attic floor is given over three quarters for a huge bedroom, which can be additionally equipped with a billiard table or game consoles. The loggia with an area of ​​9 sq.m will serve as an excellent place for storing things and smoking for all guests at the same time.
• An intermediate option for a more intimate and longer pastime, in which the attic floor is divided into several separate small bedrooms and common room recreation, a smaller loggia, and the first floor is additionally equipped with a dressing room and a vestibule.

How to build a two-story house-bath 6x8

Self-construction of such a structure will significantly save money, but will require significant construction and design skills. The process of building a house-bath is in many ways similar to the construction of an ordinary small frame house. The functional specialization of individual rooms requires a special approach to the planning of engineering and insulation systems.

Layout features

The invariable features of the layout of two-story bathhouses are:

• Location on the ground floor of all bath and office space. The ceiling of the first floor needs a thorough vapor barrier.
• Availability on the ground floor sauna stove. Places increased demands on the system fire protection, thermal insulation and ventilation.
• Attic living quarters directly above the bathhouse. They require enhanced thermal insulation and air conditioning systems.

Special mention must be made possible installation swimming pool in the recreation room on the ground floor. This greatly changes the foundation work required, as the pool is much easier to install before the house is assembled. A cheaper option that does not require major changes to the foundation would be to install a Jacuzzi-type mini-pool in the shower room.

Construction stages

After creating or selecting a finished project, it is necessary to select a land plot for its implementation.

When choosing, you need to consider:

• Soil type and terrain slope. Building in the wrong place can lead to premature destruction of the structure, and the cost of laying the foundation will be much higher.
• Proximity to public water supply and sanitation systems, or availability of well water. Water supply can cost as much as the price of the whole house.
• Location of gas supply systems. Only when choosing a gas oven.
• Availability of storage space for firewood. When choosing wood.

Foundation construction

Frame two-story structures usually have a very small weight and do not need a powerful foundation.

In most cases they are placed on pile foundations built in this order:

• Site clearing. It is necessary to get rid of all plants and remove upper layer soil with grass.
• Markup. Produced with stakes and cord. At the first stage, only the marking of four corner piles is carried out, according to horizontal level and at right angles. After their installation, the marking of the remaining piles around the perimeter and inside. The pitch of the piles is chosen as close as possible to 120 cm, taking into account the length of the wall. For example, on a side with a length of 6 m, the step will be exactly 120 cm, and on a side with a length of 8 m - 133 cm.
• Preparatory earthworks. This can be drilling to a depth of 30 cm below the freezing point for cast piles, or digging 40 cm for screw piles. The lower point of the well for a cast pile is expanded using a special drill blade.
• Installation of piles. Screw piles are twisted manually with a lever, like a screw, until it stops, to a depth of one and a half meters. If the stop is not reached, it is possible that a place with too soft soils has been chosen and it is worth choosing a different type of foundation. Cast piles are made by laying ruberoid formwork and reinforcement from steel pipe, and subsequent pouring of the entire structure with concrete. A variant with the involvement of special equipment is also possible - steel piles are driven into the ground with strong blows.
• Alignment of piles and installation of grillage. Screw piles and piles installed by machinery are cut along the cord. The grillage can be in the form of pile heads and a crown of large section, or a continuous channel / I-beam welded onto the piles. In the latter case, the I-beam is able to take on part of the load on the crown and significantly strengthen the structure.

For foundations frame structures permanent residence they use a strip foundation, which is structurally simpler than a pile foundation, does not require a separate arrangement of the grillage, and is more resistant to seasonal soil deformations.

Such a foundation is a monolithic reinforced or reinforced concrete underground wall around the entire perimeter of the house, on which the frame rests. The disadvantage of such a foundation is the many times increased cost of materials and the need for special equipment to deliver it.

The foundation elements inside the perimeter of the bath house must be positioned so that there are support points at the installation sites of the stove, stairs and mini-pool.

Frame installation

The frame is mounted in the following order:

• Crown installation. For solid grillage or strip foundation a board 50x150 mm is used, mounted flat, for a house on pile heads - a bar 150x150 mm. The crown is laid on waterproofing made of roofing felt or polyethylene foam, and attached to the foundation with anchors.
• Performing the bottom trim. Two boards 50x150 mm are placed with an edge parallel to each other at a distance of 5 cm along the entire outer perimeter of the crown.
• Installation of longitudinal logs. A board 50x150 is placed with an edge in the center of all the inner boards of the crown and cut into the harness with a cut.
• Installation of transverse logs. A 50x150 board is cut with a cut perpendicular to the longitudinal lags with a step of 60 cm.
• Assembly of wall frames. The walls are assembled from the same board, step uprights- 60 cm. Installation of door and window openings. At the end of the assembly, all internal wall openings are reinforced with diagonal braces. Frontal and internal bearing walls are carried out a floor high, and have an upper crown similar to that installed on the ground floor. The side walls are made of higher racks and completed with the installation of a mauerlat.
• Performance top harness and installation of an attic floor log. The process is similar to installing the first floor log, but there is no support for the crowns and the foundation. Spans of more than 4.5 meters are fixed to the supporting walls.

The best material for the manufacture of baths is glued laminated timber, which provides the necessary strength and insulation characteristics. Ordinary lumber will require careful treatment with water-repellent, fire-resistant and antiseptic agents.

Most lumber is supplied in 6m lengths, so for the 8m side, you will have to use a build-up of the timber using special cuts and cotter pins. All fasteners are made with self-tapping screws using metal corners.

Equipment of the subfloor and draft floors of the first floor and attic, installation of stairs

• The arrangement of the underground is used to increase the durability of the structure. The gaps between the piles around the perimeter of the house are clogged construction waste and close decorative trim, for example, under granite. The subfloor is laid with geotextiles, covered with a layer of compacted sand 10 cm and expanded clay to the level of the log.
• A solid draft floor can be made from OSB sheets or boards 25x100 mm installed on 40x40 mm bars stuffed around the perimeter of the lags. In the ceilings and floors that will be in the bath room, it is imperative to use waterproof materials, for example, water-repellent plywood.
• Installation of the stairs is carried out in a predetermined place with reinforced floor lags.

Roof installation

• Assembly and installation of the frame gable. The pediment is assembled on the second floor and sheathed on the outside with OSB or plywood. After the rise, the pediment is temporarily fixed with jibs.
• Installation of a ridge beam between the gables. A span of more than 6 m requires the presence of at least one transverse wall lintel between the attic rooms, into which it will be possible to build in an additional support for the ridge beam. In the simplest case, this role is played by a jumper for the loggia. The support can be made either as a column/bearing wall or as a horizontal support beam.
• Laying on the Mauerlat and ridge beam of rafters from a board 50x150 mm in increments of 60 cm. The rafters must converge tightly with each other, forming a rafter pair, so that on the ridge beam after complete installation roofs were not created vertical loads. The rafter pair in the upper third should be fastened with a puff from a board with a section of less than 40x100 mm.
• Installation of waterproofing and lathing on the rafters according to the instructions for the selected roofing material.
• Installation roofing material and skate according to the instructions. For frame structures, it is recommended to choose lightweight types of roofing - soft tiles, metal tile, ondulin.

External wall cladding, installation of secondary partitions, installation of windows, doors

The walls are sheathed sheet material or clapboard, the frame is pre-laid with waterproofing. Partitions are attached to the cladding and floors, made in the form of a frame of timber 50x50 mm. After installing windows and doors, the structure begins to resemble a residential building.

Insulation of walls and attic

• Wall insulation on the first floor, not related to the bath room, is made with mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) with a thickness of 10-15 cm.
• For the attic as thermal insulation, mineral wool would be a good option. 15-20 cm thick or ecowool 15 cm thick.
• For bath rooms, the best option would be the use of polyurethane foam or several layers of stone-type mineral wool. The outer layer of multilayer insulation can be made of XPS.
• At the end of the insulation, the frame is hemmed with vapor barrier, for bath rooms it is better to use a vapor barrier with a reflective layer and aluminum sizing along the edges.

Installation of engineering systems, furnaces

• A brick oven is placed on a prepared base in the foundation.
• The steel furnace is placed on the floor, placing a special heat shield under it.
• Due to the high fire hazard for correct installation furnace and chimney, it is imperative to involve the master.
• Bath rooms should be equipped with special sewerage and ventilation.
• The location of the stove in a heat-insulated room leads to the need to install a distributed heating system for the whole house. Heating can be carried out from a sauna stove or other source of energy.
• Water, electricity, gas if desired.

Installation of finishing floors, cladding of ceilings and walls

In residential premises, finishing floors are mounted in this way:

• A vapor barrier is laid on the draft floor of the first floor.
• A heater, most often mineral wool, is placed in the cells formed by longitudinal and transverse lags.
• Cover the insulation with waterproofing.
• Lay a finishing floor from a tongue and groove board 30x150 mm.

The design of floors in bath rooms depends on the type of drain used. Special attention given necessary slopes floors and powerful waterproofing. As a heater, it is permissible to use only non-hygroscopic heat-resistant materials, stone wool or polyurethane foam.

Ceilings and walls are lined with vapor barrier and sheathed with OSB; reflective-type vapor barrier and waterproof materials are used in the baths.

Finishing

A sheathed OSB house-bath may well be used for its intended purpose, but it is unlikely to please the eyes of guests. To give the building a pleasant look, we can recommend such basic Finishing work:

• installation of cashing windows and doors;
• sheathing the outer surface with siding or imitation timber;
• sheathing of all walls and ceilings with clapboard;
• installation of skirting boards.

Order turnkey

Due to the great complexity necessary work The most popular method of building a bath house is to order from a turnkey construction company.

There are the following options for such an order:

• Ordering a completely ready-to-use building from scratch. The contractor carries out project development, construction, summing up supply systems. The most expensive way.
• Turnkey order, without supply systems.
• Order only for construction and materials. One of the typical projects is taken. It makes it possible to save about 30 thousand rubles on the development of the project.
• Purchase of factory design. The kit includes all fasteners, lumber with cuts, detailed instructions by installation. If desired, you can install it yourself or entrust the work to the employees of the manufacturer.
• Order "under shrinkage". The contractor performs all basic works that require high qualification - installation of the frame, log, stairs, roof, subfloor on both floors. frame houses are not subject to large shrinkage, so the owner can continue finishing work immediately after the completion of the contractor's work.

The main advantage of ordering a turnkey bath — construction speed. On average, the installation of a 6x8 bath by a team of professionals takes from a week (collection of factory equipment) to a month, excluding foundation works. Self-collection with the involvement of one assistant will take from a month to six months.

Where to order in St. Petersburg and Moscow

Almost all major Russian construction companies offer their services in Moscow and St. Petersburg. In this regard, in these cities and regions, the buyer is more likely to be faced with the problem of choosing from dozens of names on the Internet than the lack of a suitable contractor.

You can find reviews about the work of certain companies in the network, ask the opinion of friends. The best option will involve the selection of an experienced third-party builder who is able to evaluate other works of the proposed contractor.

Where to order in other cities

Large construction firms serve most regions of the European part of Russia. If you want to build a frame house-bath in the Urals and further to the east, you will most likely have to turn to regional contractors. Usually there are not so many of them, and you have to make a choice between two or three of the most solid ones.

Construction business frame houses very profitable, therefore, in any more or less large Russian city, using the Internet, you can find a suitable construction organization.

Small contractors usually do not offer services such as delivery of a factory prefabricated house, connection of supply systems, development of a unique project.

Conclusion

A two-story bath in any case will cost its owner a considerable amount of money, but all the costs of it will return a hundredfold in the form of health and Have a good mood. It doesn't matter whether assembled by yourself or made on a turnkey basis, the frame bath house will undoubtedly serve as a great place to relax after a hard week of work.

Two-story frame house-bath 6x8

Today, many summer residents and owners of suburban areas prefer not only to wash and steam in the bath, but also to relax. A full-fledged leisure is impossible without comfortable conditions- Availability of a bathroom, kitchen, living room. Projects of two-story baths involve the combination of several functions.

More recently, baths have come into fashion, where on the first floor there is a complete bath complex, a bathroom and a kitchen. And on the second full-fledged living quarters - bedrooms and a living room. Why build on plot two one-story houses and leave less free land for a garden and orchard when one can be built.

The advantages of two-story baths

Starting construction, it is necessary to carefully approach the choice of the project. If the area of ​​​​the site does not allow the installation of several outbuildings and a residential building, then a two-story bath is an excellent way out.

It has a number of advantages:

• Occupies less space on the site, but it is more functional and accommodates large quantity premises;
• Low costs for heating the second floor - hot air rises from the steam room and heats the rooms;
• The building has a presentable appearance;
• You can install a small pool inside, it's easy to find a place for it.

Numerous projects of a two-story bath suggest the presence of a full-fledged communication system. That is, you can live in the house, if not permanently, then for a short period of time, including in winter.

Features of the placement of communications

System engineering communications very different from that applicable to an ordinary bath or home.

Many factors are important here:

• Organization of ventilation of the second floor;
• Installation of heating - most often used radiators, evenly installed in the rooms. They can be powered by either an electric boiler or a sauna stove when not in use;
• The drawing should suggest the presence of a boiler room.

The project of a two-story bath with a terrace provides that the bath complex, located on the ground floor, is adjacent to the garage and has with it common wall. Required element– internal staircase between floors.

Note! To get rid of Wastewater you need to install a septic tank or connect to the collector. If sewer waste is located close to the source drinking water they will pollute it with waste.

Stages of construction of a two-story bath

Once the plot is selected appropriate place, it's time to start multi-stage construction. It must be approached very seriously and responsibly, strictly observing the technology. After all, the bath is not built for one year and must be assembled correctly.

Construction includes the following mandatory steps:

• Design . The durability of the structure will depend on compliance with all norms and requirements;
• Holding preparatory work and selection building materials . The wood for the bath should be well dried and processed. protective compounds, not have resinous areas and knots;
• Foundation construction - strip or columnar. It is laid to the depth of freezing of the soil, the type depends on the material. Two-story project frame bath due to the ease of construction, it requires, for example, a simple column foundation from asbestos pipes;

• Assembling a log house on the site. The work is carried out according to the numbering indicated on the logs, profiled or glued beams;
• Preparation and installation of the roof;
• with the help of jute, hemp or linen;
• Installation of the chimney, while taking into account such indicators as corrosion resistance and fire resistance. It is also important to ensure full traction;
• . For safety reasons, all doors must open outwards;
• Treatment of the bath with an impregnation that prevents the occurrence of a fire, the appearance of insects that can damage the wood;
• Interior decoration of premises - installation of a heater, finishing.

Bath two-story of foam blocks

Somewhat inferior in terms of environmental friendliness to wooden log cabins.

However, it has some advantages:

• Quickly erected;
• Has a light weight;
• Not afraid of fire;
• Interior decoration is easier to carry out than in buildings made of brick or concrete.

Note! A foam block stove is suitable for any stove. You can buy ready-made in the store or fold the heater yourself from bricks.

Conclusion

A two-story bath is a great option for those who want to combine comfortable rest and hygiene procedures in one place. No shower cabin can replace bath procedures.

Why build two separate buildings on the site, when everything can be combined in one, and even arrange a pool inside. The video in this article will more fully demonstrate the information on this topic, look!

Bath project that will suit every customer. This bath is both compact and roomy. This is achieved through the presence of a second floor. It has a large room that can be arranged according to your desire. There you can arrange a room for your own summer residence. Or you can arrange a playroom for children on the second floor, so your children will have something much more better than a house on the tree. And for parents in whose family a teenager is growing up, this will be a saving decision at all. So the teenager will have his own place in which he can calmly develop and relax without the supervision of his parents.

The first floor of the bath included everything you need, there is a steam room, a shower room and a rest room. The rest room has a fairly large area, which will accommodate everything you need in it.

The two-storey sauna 6 x 7 has gable roof. To cover it, our company offers you to use a metal tile. It is not only very reliable material and also very lightweight. Due to this, the building does not become heavier and there is no additional load on the foundation of the building. This material can withstand any temperature fluctuations from +50 to -120 degrees. This material is resistant to direct sunlight, protected from corrosion and mechanical damage. In addition, the metal tile is very durable. Specialists do not find any shortcomings in this material at all, only advantages. Also, at your request, we can cover the roof with this material, the ease of installation will allow our specialists to lay such a roof in just a couple of days. Having decided to build this particular bath, your whole family will be satisfied with your decision.

Specialists of the company "Stolichnaya Usadba" always deliver objects on time, and this is our great pride. In addition, the quality of our work is very high level. All because we build according to all building codes, traditions and European recommendations, the material that we use for construction is checked by our company. We also have competent designers with extensive experience in developing plans and projects for wooden houses.

Characteristics:

Characteristics:

Total area of ​​the project:
56.8 square meters

Price in rounded log:
from 590 000 rubles

Price in hand-cut log:
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