Two-story bath with a shed roof. Shed roof for a bath: construction technology

Most of the baths, their owners try to build in the form of separate buildings, taken out from the house to a secluded and clean corner of a summer cottage or private household. Sometimes the choice of the place where it is planned to build a bath is dictated by the desire to hide the building from prying eyes, but more often the location is “tied” to a source of water, firewood or gas, trying to put a steam room on the leeward side of the main building or so that the sun heats one as much as possible. pitched roof on the bath.

Why is a bath under a shed roof built most often

The first and main reason why a shed roof bath is more popular among steam room lovers is the practicality of the shed roof shape. If you compare it with any other roofing options for a bath, other advantages become obvious:

• Bath projects with a shed roof are much simpler and more affordable than hip or gable scheme, while no one imposes special requirements on the beauty of the bath building with a shed roof. Unless, of course, the bath is not built for advertising purposes. Any professionally built bathhouse with a neat shed roof, as in the photo, looks very nice;
• A bath is not a house, so an attic or attic is not needed for the building, and a shed roof for the period of visiting the steam room will provide thermal insulation no worse than a gable one;
• It is quite possible to make a shed roof for a bath with your own hands or with the participation of one or two assistants, in two or three days.

Advice! Before finally choosing one of the many projects for a bath with a flat shed roof, orient the location of the building on the ground so that the wind blows from the lower part of the roof, and air currents as if running into an inclined plane of the roof.

Build a shed roof with your own hands

The design of a bath with a shed roof is not particularly difficult in practical implementation. You can find it in open sources detailed advice, and even precise recommendations on how to make a pitched roof. But before choosing final scheme, budgeting and practical construction of a shed roof, you should decide how to make a shed roof and position it relative to the porch, dressing room, steam room and sauna stove. Most often, a bath with a flat shed roof is built in the following layout options:

1. The entrance to the bathhouse and the rest room with a dressing room are located in the higher part of the bathhouse building. This allows you to put a large window and make high ceilings in the dressing room, but at the same time makes it impossible, using the roof overhang, to build a summer terrace at the entrance to the bathhouse. In addition, the stove will have to be installed in the center of the roof or on the low edge of the slope, which is very inconvenient.
2. The porch of the bath is made under the overhang of the roof. In this case, the steam room and the stove will be located on the opposite side of the building. This arrangement will break ceiling space into two parts and raise the floors and ceilings of the steam room by 0.5-1m above the level of the entrance to the room. Under the roof overhang, with a sufficient height of the walls, it is possible to complete the summer terrace and deploy the entrance to the sunny side.
3. The location of the entrance to the bathhouse can be done from the end of the building, thereby reducing the influence of a shed roof on the location of the premises inside the bathhouse. But in this case, you will need to significantly raise the height of the walls of the bath.

Each of the options has its advantages and disadvantages, therefore, before making a shed roof, think through all the nuances in advance.

We build a shed roof for a bath with our own hands step by step

At the first stage, it is necessary to determine the angle of inclination and the type of roofing material. For smooth surfaces made of metal and corrugated board, you can take an angle of 15 o. For soft roofing, bituminous and clay tiles, slate corner pitched roof must be raised to 25-30 o.

The next step is to calculate the required dimensions of the bars and beams for arranging rafters and beams ceiling. If the dimensions of the bath building do not exceed 3x4m, a four-meter beam can be used as beams for rafters. pine board 50x150mm. For floor beams with a step of 50 cm, we take standard beam 100x150 mm, although its strength is more than enough for such a small room. From the same beam it will be necessary to make ridge run on which the rafter legs will rest and the weight of the roof will be transferred.

Most often, a shed roof with a reinforced ceiling is built for a bathhouse that does not have a main wall inside the room that can be used as supports for struts or supports. These are small buildings with wooden walls inside. In this way they build frame types baths. Inside such a bath, an iron or cast-iron stove is installed on a light foundation or without it. Massive ceiling overlap makes it possible to take on the main part of the load.

Advice! A reinforced ceiling will come in handy if suddenly, for objective reasons, you decide to lay an order of magnitude heavier slate or clay tiles instead of light metal tiles.

To unload the central part of the rafters of long pitched roofs, it is better to use a vertical support beam than a brace. The latter is easier to manufacture, but it is less effective.

For a bath with wall dimensions of 6x4 or more, it is recommended to use intermediate supports for rafters and struts for a ridge run in a shed roof. In this case, the stiffness ceiling beams a shed roof is not enough, so it is better to provide an internal brick wall on the foundation. Most often in the bath, this wall separates the steam room from the dressing room and serves as a support for the beds and struts of the shed roof.

Before assembling the frame of a shed roof, a Mauerlat from a thick board 200x50mm is laid on the brick or cinder block walls of the bath. Under the board, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing from roofing material and mastic. If the walls of the bath are made of wooden beam, top row of the laid material can be used as a power plate, while the plane of the beam must be carefully aligned with the horizon.

The dimensions of the boards for the rafter legs are determined after the installation of the supports and the upper beam of the ridge run. According to the prepared template, we cut the supporting surfaces in the upper and lower parts of each of the rafters. Thus, each of the rafters will have two main points - on the Mauerlat and one unloading on the support.

Frame assembly

Installation rafter legs on the Mauerlat and the ridge beam can be made in two versions. In the first case, the rafter in a shed roof rests on a ridge run in the center and a Mauerlat. The main attachment point for the rafters is on the ridge beam. For the assembly of beams, steel brackets or crossbars are usually used. The rafters rest on the Mauerlat in a free state, with a wire tightening of the lower part of the beam. Due to this, the rafter beam can slightly “play” under load without deforming the shed roof frame in the bathhouse.

If the bath is assembled from a bar or a rounded log, experts recommend installing the rafters on a ridge beam with hinged fastening. This will allow all the rafters of the shed roof to level the decking in the event of wall sagging.

If you have little experience in assembling a shed roof, a frame made of roof beams in the bath it is better to assemble “on black”, with preliminary fastening of all elements with the help of wood screws 100-120 mm in size. When leveling the position of all elements of the beam, they are connected using steel brackets from reinforcement, wire and wooden plates.

After assembling the frame of a shed roof, a crate of boards, 15-20 mm thick, is stuffed onto the rafters.

Thermal insulation and roofing

Under the crate it is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier and two layers of waterproofing. To lay the corrugated board, it will be necessary to fill an additional frame to fit the dimensions of the sheet so that the overlapping points of adjacent sheets are in the same plane. For this use wooden lath and a dimensional template to help maintain the mounting pitch.

Under soft roof for a bath, you will need to sew up a shed roof with a solid board or waterproof option OSB boards. Before laying the vapor barrier, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic. On top of the slab or board with mastic, a layer of roofing felt or roofing material is glued with an overlap of 10 cm. Next, a layer of soft roofing is laid directly on the melted mastic.

Ceiling insulation

If the angle of inclination of the shed roof is small, in this case it is more convenient to lay the ceiling insulation and vapor barrier before assembling the flooring. To do this, cranial bars are hemmed to the beams of the ceiling. With inside ceiling lining will be attached to the bars.

An overlap of a pine or hardwood board treated with a waterproof antiseptic is laid on the cranial planks. Next, a layer of vapor barrier is laid polyethylene film with aluminum foil reflector. At the next stage, a ventilation gap is made, up to 3 cm thick, and a layer of thermal insulation mats is laid along the crate. Over the thermal insulation of the ceiling of the bath is stuffed wooden plank 1.5-2 cm or coniferous lining, it is desirable to seal the seams between the boards with elastic material.

The project of a bath with a shed roof and a terrace has impressive dimensions. Its dimensions provide for the construction of a building 4 by 9 meters. The total useful area of ​​​​the structure, combining all the elements of a bath with a shed roof, is 35 square meters. m. A spacious steam room with a washing room and a relaxation room have access to a single free veranda. Projects of baths with a pitched roof are in great demand among developers and are widely used in suburban areas. summer cottages. Constructions of this type allow you to save additional cash. Lesoresurs LLC offers installation services wooden buildings at attractive attractive prices.

Look A PHOTO from the construction of this project.

Look a photo baths after finishing.

The cost of building a bath for shrinkage from:

• timber natural humidity 150 x 150 mm - 370,000 rubles;
• profiled timber 140 x 140 mm - 400,000 rubles ( dovetail);
• profiled timber 140 x 190 mm - 455,000 rubles (dovetail);
• profiled timber 140 x 140 mm - 448,000 rubles (corners in a bowl).

kit cost project documentation- 10,000 rubles.

The price of construction under shrinkage includes:

• bath set from a bar of natural humidity conifers(pine, spruce), the construction height of the first floor is 2.5 meters, the height of the chopped gables is 0.6 meters, washed down the dovetail / bowl corners;
• domestic interior partitions from a bar 100 x 150 mm (90 x 140 mm - when building from a profiled bar), floor beams from a bar 100 x 150 mm in increments of not more than 0.6 meters;
• installation on a finished foundation with the laying of roofing material under the mortgage crown, manufacturing truss system, roof lathing, temporary roofing with ruberoid. The assembly of the structure is carried out on a flax-jute cloth; wooden birch dowels with a diameter of 25 mm are used to fasten the beams together;
• lumber and accessories: board 50 × 150 mm for the truss system. The pitch of the rafters is 0.6 meters. Edged board 25 × 150 mm for the manufacture of roof lathing;
• loading - unloading lumber and components. Delivery to the construction site within a radius of 50 km from the Moscow Ring Road;
• other consumables Construction Materials(staples, nails, roofing material).

Construction cost strip foundation- 180,000 rubles.

Base Specifications:

• monolithic tape foundation reinforced under all external and main walls, porch;
• monolithic plinth height + 300 mm from the existing ground level, width 300 mm, laying depth - 300 mm;
• sand compacted cushion, 300 mm thick from medium-grained sand;
• reinforcement AIII Ø 10 mm with an overlap of bars of at least 300 mm and a bend at the corners / intersections of the main walls;
• factory-made concrete grade M - 300 (B 22.5);
• ventilation of closed underground volumes (air vents) - pvc pipe 110 mm.

The cost of a pile-screw foundation is 50,000 rubles. (a photo)

The cost of a roof with a metal tile is 70,000 rubles.

For most baths ideal option The roof is a simple shed construction.

shed roof for a bath - the easiest and cheapest option

If the roof area does not exceed 15 m 2, then the installation of such a roof is simple and inexpensive. This is the most a budget option. With an increase in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof, the cost increases significantly due to additional supports and beams, which are used in this case.

When calculating the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof, do not forget to add the length of the overhangs.

When building a bath roof, it is important to choose the right slope angle. It depends on the region and the amount of precipitation typical for this area. If the zone is steppe and there is little precipitation, the slope of the roof can be small, about 8-20 °. For regions with significant precipitation, this value is much higher: 30-45°. In this case, the roof will turn out to be steep enough, which will contribute to the timely snowmelt.

A fairly large role in choosing the angle of inclination is played by the type of roofing material:

• When using corrugated board, it can be from 8 to 20 degrees.
• For metal tiles - at least 25 °.
• When using roofing material, the slope can be tilted minimally by only 5 °.

The slope of the roof is created due to the difference in the height of the walls. After its value is chosen, it is necessary to make one of the walls higher enough to provide the required angle.

Not less than important role the right type plays in the roof device. The device for thermal insulation of the roof depends on the intended mode of use of the bath. If you plan to bathe all year round, you need a device attic floor followed by warming. If it's about summer bath, then the roof will simultaneously perform the functions of the ceiling. In this case, only the slope is insulated. This option is the cheapest, but it is difficult to use such a bath in the cold season due to the rapid loss of heat: firewood has to be spent a lot to maintain the temperature.

If an attic floor is needed, beams are prepared for it. Their dimensions and section depend on the width of the bath and on the type (mainly weight) of the chosen roofing material: the wider the size of the bath and the heavier the roofing material, the larger the beam section should be used. The step with which the beams of the attic floor are located is usually 0.6-1.0 meters. But from the experience of the builders of baths, it follows that optimal distance equal to the width of the insulation: no waste and no time wasted on fitting and sealing.

After completing the installation of the attic floor, they begin to manufacture the truss system. The rafters are located at a distance of 0.6 m to 1.2 m from each other. The choice of this value depends on the type (weight) of the roofing material and the amount of precipitation in your area. The more precipitation and the heavier the roofing material, the smaller the step. If you decide or ceramic tiles, then choose the smallest distance between the rafters, since asbestos-cement and clay tiles sheet is a rather heavy material.

In some cases, the beams of the attic floor and the beams of the truss system are located in the same place, fastened together with special U-shaped brackets (if there are no ready-made brackets, they can be made from reinforcement bars, at least 8 mm thick). Sometimes reinforcing pins or wooden nigel spikes are used as a fastener, which are driven into drilled holes.

Shed roof designs may vary. In other cases, the following method of arranging the roof elements is used (see the figures below).

If the bath is made of timber or logs, the upper crown can serve as a support for the beams. For structures made of stone, a beam or log-mauerlat is laid on top of the top layer of brick / stone, which serves as a connection roof structure and building boxes. Before laying the Mauerlat, the walls are covered with a layer of waterproofing.

In the upper crown or Mauerlat, special through holes, into which the ends of the beams are then inserted. The depth of the hole is about half the height of the log / beam. In the place where the beams are in contact with the crown / Mauerlat, they are wrapped with roofing material (the ends of the beams cannot be wrapped, as this contributes to decay). To unload the rafters, to give the structure greater rigidity and for safety, in addition to the rafters themselves, they use additional elements: spacers, lintels, ties.

After the installation of the roof frame is completed, it is necessary to mount the crate to secure the roofing material. The step of the lathing depends on the type of roofing material:

• For, or, a continuous crate is required, which is most often made of sheet materials (OSB, moisture-resistant plywood, etc.).
• Under sheet roofing materials, a sparse crate is performed. Its step depends on the size of the sheets. Usually, for such a crate, an unedged board with a thickness of 25-40 mm is used, and only for wave slate take a bar 50 * 120 mm (step 0.8-1.0 meters).
• When using heavy roofing materials or a large amount of precipitation, some elements of the crate can be replaced with metal profiles maintaining a certain step.

Important! Don't Forget All Items roofing system treat with antiseptic compounds (the crate too).

Installation of roofing material

It is necessary to lay roofing material from the lowest point of the roof. To ensure tightness, it is essential to observe the required overlap and use the appropriate fasteners. Also under the roofing material it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing material.

Roll roofing materials are mounted on a continuous crate in at least 3 layers (they must be glued together).

Installation of a soft roof starts from the bottom point. First, a layer of glassine or roofing paper is glued onto a continuous crate using heated mastic so that the sheets overlap by at least 10-12 cm (they are nailed with special nails for roofing). The next step is to glue the rolled roofing material using the same mastic. Remove all air bubbles carefully. At the lowest point, the material is brought over the edge of the roof by 15-20 cm and nailed to the bottom of the crate.

For more information on how to make a roll roof, read the article "". About the device of a roof from a metal tile is written in the article

The device of the roof, of course, is very milestone construction. Everything must be done carefully and carefully, observing all the necessary allowances and overlaps.

Projects of baths with a pitched roof

Shed roof can be put on any project. Another thing is that this is not always justified: sometimes it is necessary to make a large height difference to ensure the required angle of inclination. And quite often the construction of one of the walls to such a height costs more than gable roof. So in each case, you need to consider what will be more profitable for you.

Bath project 6 * 4 with an attached terrace

There are many small spaces in this layout. The bath itself occupies an area of ​​24 sq.m., under the same roof and on the same foundation there is a terrace.

The total occupied area on the plan is 10*4=40 sq. m.

If you are planning a sauna high temperatures and without brooms, this layout can be left. If the bath is Russian, then the size of the steam room is definitely small: there must be at least one “lying” shelf, and its minimum dimensions 2.2 * 0.8 m, which already occupies 1.76 square meters. m. Moreover, the shelves do not become long in the proposed layout. For the Russian bath, they proceed from other norms: the steam room is made larger, and the washing room is smaller. Below is another option. In it, the terrace remained unchanged, while the layout of the rest of the premises has changed: the bathroom has disappeared, there is a fenced-in vestibule, which, when winter use mandatory, the partition between the rest room and functional rooms has been displaced.

Numerous other options are also possible. As long as you have not laid the foundation, you can change and move the walls as you see fit (on paper). Having come to some option that will suit you in all respects, you can start laying out the foundation. When planning, do not forget to take into account the thickness of the walls and insulation: they “eat up” a lot of space (especially for the steam room).

Bath project 5*5

If the bath is visited in winter, with this arrangement of rooms (see photo below), you will have to think over the heating system of the rest room: it remains unheated. If you reduce the washing room (it usually has a shower and a bench, so large areas are not needed), and make the veranda shorter, then the stove can be heated from the rest room. In this case, the washing room is heated by the heat coming from the steam room or by the heat from the water tank. It will be very warm in the washing room if the water is heated by a separate wood-burning titanium: it will heat both the room and the water.

The project of a small bath 3 * 4 baths under a pitched roof

Plan the walls based on what kind of bath you want. If it is dry-air, then the steam room (top left) may be small, if it is a Russian bath, proceed from the size of the shelf (shelves) and the location of the stove. In principle, it is necessary to start from the furnace, and from it to plan both the walls and the rafter system (so that the rafters do not pass over the pipe).

Bath project 5 * 9 with a pitched roof and a carport 3 * 9

The roof is shed and above the bath and above the investment platform. The roof over the parking lot starts flush with the low wall.

In this project, a rather large place is allocated for the bath, but the problem of parking the car is solved. If you have a garage for your car, the canopy easily turns into a terrace - open or closed - of your choice. .

Depending on the linear dimensions baths and the wishes of the developer, the roof in the bath can be single-pitched or double-pitched, flat or sloping. The most commonly used variant of the inclined gable roof, according to their performance characteristics it is suitable for all climatic zones of our country, under such roofs it is possible to equip residential attic spaces.

Gable roofs can be layered (often used on buildings with a width of more than six meters) and hanging. To increase the stability indicators, the layered type of roofs has additional rafter stops, hanging truss systems have an emphasis only on the mauerlats or ceiling beams (the option is rarely used), in the upper part the rafters are held by crossbars. For example, let's take the most common option - hanging gable roofs.

hanging rafters Hanging rafter spans from 13 to 17 m
Types of layered rafters

Kinds hanging rafters Calculation scheme of hanging rafters Solution options for the cornice assembly

Let's take into account that the dimensions of the bath are 5 × 5 meters, the bath is made of sawn timber, the top row plays the role of a Mauerlat. The roof is gable hanging, without insulation.

Before starting the manufacture of rafters, it is necessary to make preliminary calculations, with their help we will determine the angle of inclination and the parameters of the rafter legs.

The following loads act on the truss system:

• permanent. The weight of the truss system, battens and roofing. The weight of the roofing depends on the specific roofing material and is specified by the manufacturer;
• temporary. Wind and snow loads, weight of workers;
• natural. Earthquakes, hurricanes, etc. Natural loads during the calculations of the truss system in our country are not taken into account due to the low probability of their occurrence.

When calculating the thickness and width of the rafters, the sum of the maximum values ​​\u200b\u200bof all types of loads must be taken into account. In order to make the calculation technology clearer, you need to understand a little about the loads acting on each individual roof node.

The lower part of the rafter legs sits on the Mauerlats, the knot must take vertical and lateral loads. Crossbars work only for breaking, perceive horizontal loads. The upper (ridge) part of the rafter legs must perceive horizontal compression forces. Spans of rafters under load bend. We hope that this knowledge will help you choose the most reliable ways of fastening architectural elements in knots.

If the weight of the roofing material is indicated by the manufacturer, then the wind and snow load must be calculated independently.

The figures depend on the maximum snow depth in each region. By map snow loads a specific area of ​​\u200b\u200bresidence is determined and, using the table, the maximum effort is determined.

Table of correction factors A - for open areas. B - for terrain with obstacles.

The region of residence is determined from the map, with the help of the table a correction factor is recognized, depending on the height of the bath and its location.

To determine the load normative value multiply by the correction factor.

For the Moscow region, the parameters of the rafters can be found in the table.

Practical advice: if it is difficult for you to do the calculations yourself, take the dimensions of the truss system on existing buildings of this type. During the calculations, the angle of inclination was taken to be 20°.

Instructions for the manufacture of a gable truss system

First, a few tips on choosing the material. For rafter legs, you can take boards 50 × 150 mm, the step between the rafters is 90 centimeters, the angle of inclination of the slopes is 20 °. Pick only quality material without deep cracks or bends.

It is very important - at the junctions, do not even allow the presence of healthy knots. To select a truss system, you will need to carefully examine the lumber, the workpieces should be taken of increased length, taking into account the segmentation of unsuitable areas from the ends.

For rafters, use only the highest quality material

The maximum amount of preparatory work should be done on a flat piece of land, ready-made structures should be raised to the roof for fastening.

Temporary fixation of the rafter system should be carried out with various substandard boards, they also need to be raised to the roof in advance.

Step 1. Check the settings of the Mauerlat. Check the parallelism of the opposite Mauerlat bars, the deviation in parallelism should not exceed ± 2÷3 cm. Make sure that the Mauerlat fixation pins are installed correctly and at the required distances. Check if they are vertical.

Step 2. Making rafter legs. For the size of our bath, six pairs of rafter legs are enough.

Important: if you have to do a large number of identical elements, be sure to make one pattern. Each individual markup gives small errors, which can add up to a significant amount. In addition, using a template greatly speeds up the workflow.

For the rafter leg template, take edged boards 20x100 mm, approximately 3 meters long. At the top, overlap them with one nail (the knot must be movable), nail a horizontal section of the board to one board, it will serve as a crossbar template. The distance of the crossbar from the ridge part is within 40 ÷ 50 centimeters. Fix the crossbar only on one board, it is nailed to the second after choosing the angle of inclination of the rafter legs.

Raise the template to the roof, temporarily place it on the intended installation site of the rafters. Change the angle of inclination and the amount of extension, carefully make sure that the skate is located exactly in the middle of the bath. Found optimal location- nail the crossbar to the second board, strengthen the fastening of the boards and the ridge part with a few more nails.

Again put the prepared template on the Mauerlat and mark the place of the rafter connection node. You can connect them different ways, we chose the simplest one - with the help of a support bar and metal corners.

Fix the bar on the template in place of the support bar.

Step 3. Along the edges of the bath (in the place of the gables), nail vertical bars 50 × 50 mm.

The height of the bars should be equal to the height of the truss system, check their verticality, pull a strong rope or thread between them. Now a very important job is to check the template along the entire length of the bath. Install it in increments of about one meter and look at the slope and location of the support bar. It goes without saying that the ridge part should be on a thread. Problems were found in size within one centimeter - it does not matter, these irregularities will be eliminated during the installation of the crate under the roofing. If the variation in size is greater, you need to adjust the template in such a way as to achieve its optimal average performance. Everything is fine - carefully remove the template to the ground, if necessary, additionally strengthen all nodes.

Video - Assembly of rafters

Step 4 Lay the template on a flat area, put one rafter leg on it. Pay the main attention to the position of the ridge part, if there are knots, cut them off. The overhanging part of the rafters can be leveled at the last moment before installation or after complete installation rafter system.

Rafters in the ridge part can be connected in several ways.

The spike is the most reliable, but in our case it is not suitable - the boards are too thin. We recommend using a half-tree connection at the ridge.

It will be easier for you to use this option for connecting rafters with an emphasis at an angle of 90 °. To exclude displacements on both sides, the assembly must be fixed with metal plates on self-tapping screws, make sure that the self-tapping screws are not located against each other, place them evenly over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rafter legs.

You can make the top connection even easier - butt. But this is quite risky, too unstable design will eventually turn out. For climatic zones with a warm climate is still suitable, but if in your area the snow covers reach large values, and there are often strong gusts of wind, then this method is not recommended.

Step 5 Make marks at the top and bottom of the rafters. In the upper part, you need to cut off at an angle, the connection will be butt. The cutting line should connect the top and bottom connection points of the template. It is very important - do not cut off two legs at once symmetrically, you need to take a drawing on each leg from the corresponding side. This assembly is connected on both sides by metal plates with a thickness of at least 2 mm. Make sure that the screws are not opposite each other, place them as evenly as possible over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rafter.

Step 6 According to the template, determine the place where the rafter leg rests in the Mauerlat, fix the board that is resistant to the Mauerlat in this place. It can be fixed from the bottom of the rafter leg to the edge of the board or from the side. This assembly must withstand significant shear forces; use powerful self-tapping screws or bolts to fix the stop.

Step 7 Lay the two prepared rafter legs on a level surface, once again check their position and the placement of the knots with the template. Everything is fine - carefully remove the template from the boards to the side, fix the crossbar in place.

Components roof truss
Truss assembly

Make sure that the upper ends of the rafters rest against each other over the entire cut area. The upper (ridge) node is considered the most loaded, it is affected by the greatest squeezing forces. Small gaps can still be trimmed, there are gaps of more than 3 ÷ 4 mm - you did the markup inaccurately, you will have to cut the ends again. It is for such unpleasant cases that we recommended taking boards with a margin in length, otherwise we would have to use new material, and this increases the cost of the truss system.

Fix the crossbar with an overlap to the rafter legs, for fixing you need to use long bolts or studs, the nuts are tightened from both sides. Enough for two of these bolts on each leg.

Do not forget that the bolt works in compression, do not allow vibrations in the joints. In order to eliminate the risks of cracking the rafters during the installation of hardware, drill holes for them with a diameter smaller than the diameter of the stud (or bolt) by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm. The pin should fit into the holes with force. The protruding part of the stud, the tightening field with nuts, must be cut off with a circular grinder (grinder).

Video - How to cut the rafters at the right angle and the right size

Step 8 In the same scenario, prepare and assemble all the remaining rafters. Lay them in a stack on top of each other, check the dimensions. Carefully inspect all bearing nodes. Found problems - immediately eliminate them, do not put off for "later". Firstly, it is much more convenient to do it on the ground. Secondly, "later" can be forgotten.

The set of rafter legs is assembled, feed it to the roof and start assembling the rafter system.

Installation of the truss system

All work must be done with the utmost responsibility, a violation of technology or poor-quality connections will definitely make themselves felt. Repairs will have to be difficult and expensive.

Step 1. Fasten the extreme (pediment) rafters. Temporarily fix them with scraps of boards. Carefully expose each foot at all nodal points, do not rush, check each size. Pull the ropes over the skate and along the sides. It is better to pull the side ropes on the overhangs of the rafters, in this position they are easier to install.

Step 2 Mark on the mauerlat the installation locations of the remaining rafter legs, the distance between them should be within one meter and the same.

Step 3 In turn, carefully lift each rafter leg, put it on the ropes and temporarily fix it with boards. Boards arrive both at an angle to each leg, and between already installed rafters.

Step 4 All rafters are pre-installed - check the correct location and start fixing the knots metal corners and planks on self-tapping screws. The thickness of the metal is at least 1.5 mm. Do not save on corners, install them on both sides of the rafter legs. As a result, you should get a design that is resistant to multidirectional loads. Trim the length of the lower part of the rafter legs, they should protrude beyond the perimeter of the bath by 30 ÷ 40 centimeters. The dimensions should also be trimmed under a stretched rope.

Metal plates for connecting rafters Fasteners for rafters

Step 5 Quite often, inexperienced builders make minor mistakes; during the installation of the truss system, they take on a mutually reinforcing effect. This leads to relaxation, the structure weakly resists longitudinal ridge loads, the rafter system staggers a little. This problem is solved by installing corner stops from boards under the extreme (pediment) legs. The thrust boards, by the way, will later serve as a frame during the sheathing of the gables.

Scheme of racks, which are the frame of the pediment and an additional jib

Lathing is done depending on the type of roofing. For soft surfaces, you need to make a continuous crate of plywood, OSB boards or cheap unedged boards. You can also take edged boards, but such a crate will be very expensive.

How to make a crate truss system

Consider two options for the crate: solid and lath.

Lathing type	Description	Illustrations
Lathing from slats	Use slats 20 × 50 mm, you can take unedged boards. The second option is much better: higher bearing characteristics, it is easier to nail the roofing. The crate needs to come from the bottom up, the distance between the slats depends on the specific type of roofing material. For ondulin, it is somewhat larger; for profiled sheets or metal tiles, the distance can be made within 40 centimeters. Make two templates to control the distance between the gratings, use them along the edges of the rails. At the ridge, nail the crate to the bowl, the ridge part and roof sheets will be fixed into it. From the side of the fronts with a blue rope (chopping cord), you need to beat off a straight line. The protruding ends of the rails are cut with a hand or electric saw.
Solid crate	Before starting work, you need to consider optimal location sheets of plywood or OSB. You need to choose such their position to minimize the number of circumcisions and waste. Do not rush, make a plan for the placement of sheets on paper. See how best to put them on the truss system - along or across. You need to start laying from the bottom, near one of the fronts immediately align the position of the sheets. If the position does not match slightly, move the sheets, a gap of one centimeter between the sheets does not negative impact on the strength and tightness of the roof. From the side of the second pediment, the edges of the sheets will also have to be leveled under the rope with blue.

The crate is ready, you can start covering the roof with roofing materials.

It is not necessary to repeat what importance has a bath roof and what consequences errors can lead to during its construction. We will give some advice to "beginner" carpenters, this will help them feel calm throughout the entire period of operation of the bath.

The more complex the connection type individual elements truss system - the more reliable it is. For example, a tenon joint can support both vertical and horizontal loads, while a lap joint only works with vertical loads.

We have described only the most simple ways connections in load-bearing nodes, taking into account that many developers do not have enough experience to perform complex connections. For such connections, “feel free” to use additional fasteners (metal plates and corners, homemade wooden supports, etc.). Let you "worse" a little appearance truss system, but greatly increase its stability. In addition, no one but you will see the roof of the bathhouse from the inside. BUT emergency everyone will see.

Carefully select lumber for the truss system. Try to avoid longitudinal joints of short rafters. The tree always shrinks/swells a little, which leads to changes in linear parameters. And this, in turn, gradually weakens the connection.

If you have the slightest doubt about the stability of the hanging truss system, install vertical grandmas, struts, puffs, etc. Does not have of great importance specific view additional stops, the main thing is that they give a positive effect. Ordinary ridge beam greatly increases the stability of the truss system to longitudinal loads.

Two boards with a thickness of 25 mm in bending strength significantly exceed the strength of a board with a thickness of 50 mm. Of course, with the same width. These are the laws of resistance of materials, use them. Connect the boards to each other through spacers from scraps of boards of any thickness. By the way, such "double" rafter legs are characterized by increased stability characteristics. As for the cost of the truss system, it hardly changes.

Joining rafters with an overlap

Self-tapping screws are excellent hardware. But only on one condition - they do not Chinese made. These "craftsmen" use alloys for their manufacture Low quality. Even large-diameter substandard hardware has very low physical strength characteristics. It is easy to check the quality of self-tapping screws - bend it at a right angle, high-quality material must withstand at least three bends. Chinese will crack, at best, on the second attempt.

If you have not encountered a roof before, seek help from more experienced friends. It is not necessary to call for the help of an “expensive” mother, it is enough for your assistant to work as an assistant for him. And the last. Always consider getting under the roof. It can be a manhole from the dressing room or an opening window on the pediment. With their help, you can carry out periodic audits of the state of the truss system and roofing. The sooner leaks or problems with the geometry of the roof are detected, the easier and faster to fix them.

Roof sheathing (supported by rafters) and gable window
A window will be inserted into the opening. You can get to the roof by placing a ladder


Staircase to the loft

Video - Do-it-yourself bath roof

Video - Installation of rafters

Video - Installation of gables

Video - Roof installation (part 1)

Video - Roof installation (part 2)

December 13, 2017
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Construction technology

The process of building a bath will be divided into several stages:

Design

First of all, you need to decide on the dimensions and layout of the building. Since our task is to build a bath with minimum investment funds, make it small. The only thing I recommend is to build a bathhouse with a veranda, as this will not greatly increase the costs, but at the same time, the structure will have a place to relax.

As for the layout, see finished projects on our portal, and choose among them the option you like best. Then, having decided on the main points, depict the design on paper.

As I said, our bath will be a frame one, as it is easily and quickly erected, and most importantly, it is the most affordable. The supporting element of the frame is the supports, which are connected from below and above by horizontal beams - strapping. The pitch of the supports should be 600 mm.

Additionally, the supports are reinforced with braces and lintels. Since the roof of the structure will be shed, the walls should be made different heights. The difference between them should provide an angle of inclination of the roof of 10-15 degrees.

Build a bath completely with flat roof, i.e. less than 10 degrees is not worth it, especially in regions with large quantity precipitation, as in this case the load on the walls will increase significantly.

All these nuances and dimensions of the structure must be depicted on paper. The scheme will serve as a hint for you when building a structure.

Foundation construction

The weight of our bath will be minimal, so there is no point in building a capital expensive foundation. So optimal solution is a columnar base. The device of this design is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Actions
	Markup. Before starting construction, mark the boundaries of the site.
	Well preparation: Dig holes in increments of one and a half to two meters along the perimeter of the site and in the center. The depth of the holes should be 20-30 centimeters; Fill the bottom of the holes with sand and tamp.
	Block stacking. Put in holes concrete blocks and level; Lay roofing material on top of the blocks.
	Mauerlat laying: Lay a 100x100 timber along the perimeter of the structure with your own hands; Make sure that the bars are laid in the same plane; Fasten the beam in the corners by making grooves in half a tree. In addition, reinforce the joints with steel corners and screws; Immediately fasten the floor beams made of 40x150 mm boards to the Mauerlat. Use steel corners to fasten the ceilings.

On this foundation is ready.

Wall construction

The construction of the frame of the walls of the bath is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Actions
	Rack mounting: Install the supports in the corners of the structure and align in a vertical plane. Use the corners to fasten the supports; For additional fixation of supports, use struts; Then install intermediate racks from boards 30x100 mm. They are attached in the same way as the corner supports.
	Top trim fitting. From above, tie the racks with beams, which are mounted in the same way as bottom trim, i.e. using the same corner fasteners.
	Opening device. For door and window openings install vertical racks and fix horizontal jumpers on them.

This completes the construction of the wall frame.

Roof installation

The design of a shed roof is extremely simple, as it consists of only rafters laid on walls of different heights. Therefore, all that is required of you is to properly lay the rafters.

The work is done like this:

Illustrations	Technology
	Rafter installation: Make grooves in the strapping for the rafters. The latter should be located in increments of 60 cm. Please note that the grooves on the opposite strapping beams must be located strictly opposite each other so that the rafters are perpendicular to the beams; Lay the boards 40x150 mm in the grooves. To attach the rafter legs, use steel corners; Attach the end boards to the ends of the rafters with nails or self-tapping screws. This completes the installation of the truss system.
	Waterproofing: Align the first strip of film along the edge of the slope and fix it with a stapler; Position the second strip so that it overlaps the first by 15 centimeters and also fix it with a stapler. According to this scheme, completely cover the roof with waterproofing.
	Lathing installation. Fasten slats 30x40 mm over the rafters; If you plan to mount a soft roof, sheathe the roof sheet material- moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. For the installation of sheet roofing, use boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm, located in increments of no more than 20 cm.

This completes the installation of the roof. Laying of roofing material is carried out as standard, as well as on any other pitched roof. This process depends on the type of material, you can learn more about it from other articles on our portal.

Wall insulation

Wall insulation is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustrations	Technology
	Installation of vapor barrier: From the inside, fix the vapor barrier film on the walls. Glue the joints that should form an overlap with double-sided tape. In a steam room, to provide vapor barrier, it is desirable to use a foil material that will reflect heat.
	Insulation installation: Fill the space between the racks with mineral slabs; Fill all gaps at the joints with scraps of mineral wool.
	Windscreen installation. From the side of the street, fix the super diffuse film. It is attached according to the same principle as the vapor barrier.
	Lathing installation. On both sides of the walls, fasten the laths of the battens to the supports. Then, on the inside of the wall, it should be sheathed with clapboard, and on the outside - with any facade material.

According to the same scheme, you can make a firewood shed with a shed roof for storing firewood. The only thing, of course, it does not need to be insulated and waterproofed.

This completes the wall insulation. The roof and floor of the structure are insulated in the same way, after which you can proceed to the internal arrangement.

Conclusion

We have considered the main nuances of construction budget bath. If in the process of work you encounter any difficulties, please contact me in the comments, and I will be happy to help you with advice.

December 13, 2017

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