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Do-it-yourself roof for a 6x6 log house. Methods for attaching rafters to a log house

The roof is the most important part of any house ... Well, you already know this, so let's omit the introductory overflows from empty to empty. The article will focus on the roofs for log cabins, and especially about the roofing options for log cabins with chopped gables.

By the way, speaking in strict terminology, the roof is the whole structure as a whole, which crowns the house. And the roof - directly roofing - slate, tiles, and so on. Also: what is commonly called a pediment is, strictly speaking, a gable - a continuation of the end wall of the house, that part of it that is limited by the slopes of the roof. A pediment is an architectural decoration, and it is usually separated by a cornice from the main facade.

And here is the pediment.

How can roofs differ?

By form.

The log cabins usually have pitched roofs various forms. The most typical and simplest for private houses is a gable (or gable). That is what we will talk about in this article.

also in low-rise construction attics are popular, and, accordingly, mansard forms of roofs. However, for the attic it is not necessary to build a roof with a broken configuration. You can make the so-called "semi-attic" if you raise the walls by about 1/3 or half the floor and put a regular gable roof. You can even get by with a regular gabled (triangular) roof if it's wide and high enough.

according to the degree of insulation.

In principle, you can cover the crate with slate, and you're done. And insulate the ceiling already - the ceiling between the attic and the residential floor. This is, of course, the simplest and most brutal option. With a roof, even a non-warm one, many people prefer to tinker more thoroughly - especially now, when so many materials have appeared, and according to the assurances of their manufacturers, one cannot take a step without all sorts of steam, hydro and other insulations and heaters. But the key idea is that it is constructive to insulate attic floor(ceiling) is much simpler than the roof itself. Especially if we are talking about a log house with chopped gables, and then it will be clear why.

On the other hand, you can make an insulated roof - for the attic, or in order not to make a separate ceiling (for example, in a bathhouse - in a rest room).

According to the design of the bearing elements:
Many people know that the main load-bearing elements of the roof are the rafters. But there is also…
roof on slopes

mixed slegovo-rafter construction.

The rafters can be rigidly connected to the frame of the house, or they can be sliding ("floating") - an independent truss structure. Hard ones are traditionally divided into:

hanging - exert arching pressure on the walls when transferring the weight of the roof to the building; permissible with a width between supports ( outer walls) up to 6 - 6.5 meters;
layered - interconnected by a puff - a beam - at the lower ends, and thus exert vertical pressure; are obligatory at a step between supports from 7 meters.

In its pure form, hanging rafters are rare, they are often reinforced with crossbars, additional posts, jibs and other structural elements. All together, the construction of a pair of rafters with other elements is called a truss. In addition to hanging and layered structures that are assembled on site, there are roof trusses that are assembled at the factory and delivered ready-made.

Still, of course, roofs differ in the type of roofing, but this is understandable.

What kind of roof should be put on a log house?

For the roof of a log house with chopped gables, only the option with sliding rafters is suitable.

All this is due to significant shrinkage of the log house. Now we are talking about gable roofs. It's simple: if some part of the log house is higher than the other, then the geometry between these parts will change after shrinkage. Each log loses in the process of shrinkage up to 15% of the volume in diameter, but this is by a fairly large account. For rounded logs, the standard is 6-8%.

The chopped pediment is like this:

The logs in the gable (pediment) part are called "males".

If a log house is a flat box, then all its walls will settle in the same way. But if some parts (pediments) are higher than others (longitudinal walls), then the difference in height between them will change, and if you build a roof on rigidly fixed rafters, then it will literally be torn off the log house, the males can fall out ... In general, this is fraught with a serious emergency situation.

Here is how the chopped pediment shrinks:

For which log cabins are rigid truss structures suitable? For the pincerless! When the roof is placed on a flat frame box - for example, hip roof. Or you can make a frame gable (with clogged boards, a blockhouse, etc.) ... But this will no longer be a log house in its purest form.

A full-fledged log house with a gable roof can only be with a chopped pediment. Why? Because the pediment is also a part of the house, and a considerable one at that. If you make it a frame, it turns out that half the house is a frame assembly. Maybe this is practical - because it's easier - but in this case, it's practical to build the whole house according to frame technology. Log cabins are erected for the sake of their special merits, and if done, then done properly and without half-measures.

When to put a roof on a log house?

Immediately after the erection of walls and before inserting windows-doors. Sometimes there are recommendations: wait until the shrinkage passes, or make a temporary roof. It's all nonsense. A house without a roof is not even a house yet. The geometry of the log house in the process of shrinkage is formed with all the loads, that is, the house must be completed and the roof too. It is reasonable to make a temporary roof only if you have difficulties with the construction of a permanent roof.

Technologies that allow you to build a log house roof that will survive shrinkage exist. objective reasons postpone construction - no.

About the attic and attic

It is clear that the attic is a living space, and the attic, usually, is not. The attic requires capital insulation of the roof, the attic does not.

If we talk about the device of the supporting structure of the roof in log cabins with chopped gables, then it is much easier to make an attic. More precisely, an uninsulated roof. However, this does not mean that the attic cannot be used as a living space. There you can equip a summer attic.

In the old days in Russia, "warm" roofs were not made, but summer rooms were arranged in the attic. This part of the house was called "terem".

To equip a warm, all-season attic, you have to tinker a lot with the roof. In this case, if there is a need and opportunity, wouldn't it be better to build another full-fledged floor?

What are the advantages of a house with an attic:

easier to build;
the attic becomes a climatic buffer between living quarters and the external environment;
therefore, there are fewer problems with condensate, ventilation, etc., there are no zones of sudden changes in temperature and humidity in the ceilings, which increases the durability of the roof;
the attic can still be used properly - as a utility room, or as a summer guest room;
it is easier to monitor the condition of the roof, carry out ongoing repairs, and so on.

What are the benefits of an attic? is increasing living space at home, but you don't get it for nothing! Equipping a spacious attic will not cost much less than building another floor.

Anti-shrink roof construction for chopped gables

There are two fundamental solutions:

roof on slabs - close in technology to the traditional nailless roof structures of traditional Slavic log cabins;
installation of sliding rafters.

There is also a slegovo-truss system, but these are the same sliding rafters, only with the addition of side rails.

In fact, this is butter, because in the first version, the supporting beams are located horizontally, and in the second, vertically. Both structures are strong enough to withstand the heaviest, for example, tiled roofing. Duplicate them - it makes no sense.

Another thing is that in addition to holding the roof, they also firmly connect the gables. And when rafters are added to such a structure, they do it in two cases:

to fill the crate on the vertical rafters;
to make a thick cake of a warm roof for the attic.

It is likely that engineering solutions for arranging a warm roof on a slab basis are quite possible, but they have not yet been developed, since so far developers have enough rafters. Therefore, if you are planning to build an attic, you cannot avoid installing rafters if you do not want to experiment.

Rafters on sliding joints

The rafters are attached above the ridge beam (in the old fashioned way: "prince's slega", "knes") to the upper crown of the longitudinal walls by means of sliding joints, the so-called "sliders". It looks like this:

This mount has two parts:

guide bar (mounted on the rafter leg);
support corner (attached to the upper crown).

The length of the guide bar can be different, the maximum will allow the rafter leg to move down by 16 cm. This is more than enough to shrink the highest roof.

The guide bar is recommended to be fixed along the axis of the rafter, and rightly so. But then there is one wonderful nuance. In most of the photos found on the Internet, you can see that the corner is installed and fixed perpendicular to the bar. And so that the top of the corner loop is located right next to the upper edge of the guide. It is not right!

The fact is that during shrinkage, the rafter will not only go down, but the angle between the rafter and horizontal line between high points walls (see the dynamic shrinkage scheme above). If the rafter rests on a log, then its part descending onto the plumb roof will rise relative to the wall, and the lower part of the fastening guide bar will rise up. And the position of the corner will not change, and the bar will crash with one edge into the corner. As a result, the movable joint is deformed.

True, if you cut out the grooves for the rafters in the upper crown with a margin for the angle at which the rafters fall, then there will be no skew, the bar, together with the rafter leg, simply drop a little lower, and will slide normally. But this moment must be remembered when installing the rafters, and cut out the groove with a margin so that the rafters lie down, or do not adjoin the support corner closely to the guide bar at the top, but it is better to do both.

Description of the dynamic scheme:
1.this is how the rafter will go
2.here this part of the rafter will rise, and with it the guide bar
3. lower this part of the rafter and the guide bar like this, only at an angle of 3 ° -5 °
4. but this is enough for the bar to cut into the corner loop here and begin to pull out the mount
5. true, if a cut is made that allows the rafter leg to lower in this direction, then there will be no problems

Another point: fasten the corner on the supporting log closer to the inside of the log house - so that there is room for the board, with which you will then close the space between the rafters.

And third important nuance. As a result of shrinkage, the rafters will not only go down, the corners of the roof will also change, not by much - by 3-5 degrees - but this is enough to create problems. One problem - in the sliding mount - has already been noted. The second is in the connection of the rafters on the ridge. It must be articulated.

In many photos on the Internet you can see this:

And this is an example of fastening a rafter pair in a sliding structure! A tilt angle of 3° with a shoulder of about 4 meters (the length of the rafters is not very wide roof) can seriously affect the geometry of the roof. Rigid fastening of rafters in the ridge is unacceptable! Otherwise, there will be no sense in sliding!

You need to fasten the rafters on the ridge either with an overlap, like this:

or in this way:

Watch this video to, as they say, "see once" what it's about:

Roof on slabs - ideal for chopped gables

Slegs - horizontal log beams that connect and firmly fix the gables of the log house; are not only a natural constructive, but also an architectural element. For example, long logs (help) sticking out of the tong fit elegantly into the design of the “wild log house” - you can put a wide console on them.

The slab roof structure is, approximately, like this:

What's good about this solution?

Why rafters, if there is already a main Basic structure for the roof? In addition, nothing to beat, you do not need to install. If you put it down often enough, then they are also a ready-made crate on which you can put, for example, tiles, shingles. In any case, slate or metal tile will fall on the bed.
You can put a solid crate (boards end-to-end) on the bed, which is already an almost finished roof!
The legs are cut into the males, and, therefore, when shrinking, they fall along with the gable of the log house - you do not need to do anything with sliding fasteners.

Generally speaking, the sleg construction appeared much earlier than the truss.

All of the above advantages of sleds are valid if nothing is rigidly attached to them so that this fastening prevents shrinkage. That is, if you stuff the crate with nails, then shrinkage will become a problem - the runs will go down with the males, but the crate and everything that you nailed to them, attached - no.

But! You can lay boards on the board without fixing them rigidly. Thus, we get either a crate or a wooden one - for example, a plank roof.

How to do it? It is possible, in principle, to nail the edges of the boards with nails to the ridge beam (knes) along one line parallel to the axis of the knes, so that with a slight change in the angle at which the boardwalk will lie, it will not be torn off. But even this is not necessary.

The old technology of Russian wooden architecture suggests a solution.

Roof without a single nail

Chickens cut into several side sleds. The chickens themselves were cut down from spruce trunks, the hook was obtained from the root system. On the hens, a stream was kept - a hollowed out log, against which the boardwalk rested - the roof boarding. The upper part of the hedge was freely laid on the ridge beam in such a way that during shrinkage the upper ends of the gorges could freely converge. To do this, leave a place when laying. The ridge beam (knes) was hewn on both sides so that the gorges fit snugly.

If you leave 10 cm to lift the gorges along the knes, then this is more than enough, because when shrinking, the chicken will also fall, and hence the gorges lying on the slopes. From above, the gorges were pressed down to the ridge beam with a frost - a heavy hollowed-out log. Thus, the gorges were fixed both at the top of the roof and on the plumb lines.

Of course, now no one forces meticulously following the ancient technology, where appropriate, you can use nails, self-tapping screws, etc. The main thing is to grasp the principle. And what is he?

Here's what:

In the same way, today you can fasten a continuous crate on a flat roof. If there is no desire to mess with chickens (although this is no more difficult than with a rafter system), then you can rest the boards against a hollow hollowed out in the upper crown. And you can vice versa - fasten the boards on the ridge beam, so that they then sink into the hollow in the upper crown. It is in this way that they act when constructing a warm roof according to the “Norwegian” technology, which I will briefly discuss below.

"Disadvantage" of the sleg design

This is a very conditional "flaw". It is that since the rafter system is now in fashion, running engineering solutions for arranging a warm roof on slabs have not been developed. Although such solutions are certainly possible.

However, if you are interested in a roof with a “cold” attic, or a summer attic, then a flat roof is the best option. The roof in this case is better - traditionally - hewn.

More about wood roofing

It would seem: a wooden roof? she will rot!

This is not true. Roofing made of aspen (similar materials - shingle, plowshare), or tesa can serve 40-50, or even more years. Of the additional advantages, the fact that such a roof is easy and cheap to repair - you only need to replace the deteriorated elements. In the case of a major renovation of the plank roof, you will only have to change upper layer gorge, understretch remains, as a rule, intact.

What's happened plank roof? This is the first layer of hewn boards, on top - the second layer. Between them, you can lay a birch bark ("rock") for additional insulation, waterproofing and antiseptic effect. Birch bark has powerful antiseptic properties, and spreads them to those materials that come into contact with it. It is not worth impregnating such wooden roofs with anything - the rain will quickly wash it anyway, and there will be no special effect.

I recommend a very high-quality video about the roof in Russian wooden architecture :

As for the "warmth" of such a - wooden - roof, estimate for yourself. This, of course, is not 20 cm of some kind of "rockwell", but two layers of tightly fitting wood interleaved with birch bark. In any case, it is warmer than bare slate, tiles, or metal tiles, etc. That is, for a completely protected from bitter cold and the moisture of the attic, or summer attic - excellent. Yes, such a roof does not let water through. She does not need a vapor barrier (after all, she breathes, like the walls of a log house!). Therefore, by the way, it is unnecessary to fill wooden roof bitumen, or shove roofing material there, as some strange people sometimes advise. Due to such attempts at "modernization", the roof may, on the contrary, rot - because natural ventilation will be disturbed.

Similarly, a shingle roof has the same properties.

Simply and on the case of aspen shingles:

The difference between a gorge and an ordinary edged board is that when sawing a log into boards, the natural structure of the wood is violated - the fibers are torn. In the production of hemp and shingles, the split occurs along the fibers, due to which these building materials better resist the aggressive effects of the environment.

Warm roof for the attic according to the "Norwegian" technology

In this case, it's not about this particular technology - I won't explain it in detail now - it's about the principle of arranging such roofs. The general principle is the same everywhere.

As I said, if you want to make an attic, then you will have to tinker with the roof rafter. In addition, broken line mansard roof and the chopped pediment of the log house is a bad combination. If a log house and male tongs, then it is better to build a semi-attic.

I will briefly dwell on the main points of the general scheme:

We have a slug and a ridge slug, which is hewn to put on its hewn edges of the board.

We have lower crown with a hollowed out groove into which the boards enter (they do not enter completely - a good margin for shrinkage is left; that is, this crate will slide down).
The boards are laid end-to-end in a checkerboard pattern - so that the second layer overlaps the joints of the first - and fastened together - a wooden shield is obtained. From above it is a solid crate, from below - that is, inside the house - the ceiling of the attic.

So far, everything is very similar to a wooden roof on the slopes, isn't it?

They put it on a shield.
They put the rafters on sliding fasteners.
Mineral wool is laid between the rafters.
(It’s interesting here - what can foam plastic be! And why not? Mineral wool is not at all more environmentally friendly and not “more natural”, and for that matter - foam plastic is not afraid of condensate, which means that there is no need for trouble with insulation films. But for some reason more often we are talking about mineral wool in the recipes of such “pies”.)
On top of the insulation is a waterproofing membrane.
And here comes the meaning in the rafters! They also attach a crate to them.
Finishing roofing material is attached to it.

Catch the main idea: in this whole scheme, sliding rafters appeared only because it was necessary to put insulation, for example. In order to get a "warm" roof for the attic. In any other case, it would be possible to lay the roof directly on the first crate, or even immediately on the bed!

This is the general principle:

For the construction of roofs of log cabins with chopped (male) gables, if it is possible and even necessary to install powerful massive sleds, the installation of rafters is necessary only in the case of arranging an attic.

In general, you need to think creatively - so as not to do bad, unnecessary work. And now many people have a strange and irrational belief that no matter what the roof is, rafters are a must! And this is far from true.

Do not try to make a roof with a steep slope - they say, so that the snow comes down and the rain does not beat. The rain will still peel on the roof, and the snow will be natural in winter time insulation. Without snow, the roof is colder. Remember, if snow does not fall on time, then winter crops freeze - from school biology.

A normal roof will also have a slope of 18-20 degrees. For shingles and tesa - from 28. The smaller the slope - the less materials and work on the roof will go.

Rafters are usually made from beams 50x150 (200) mm. Often you can take a width of 40mm. According to the regulations, the roof structure must withstand the weight of the roofing material plus 200 kg per square meter area.

It is enough to attach the sliding connection to the rafter on one side, if you attach it on two - they will be in one place! - soak the rafters.
You can perfectly use unedged board in the construction of the roof, but it is important to remove the bark from it and trim the sapwood. Under the bark - zones of accumulation of moisture and decay.

Finally, a video about making chickens - structural elements"roofs without nails" - not so difficult:

If for your wooden house If you have chosen a gable roof, then you will need a log, a bar as the main material for its manufacture. The whole process of erecting this structure can be divided into several stages and types. In this article we will tell you what types of truss systems for a log house are, as well as what roof schemes exist.

Nailless (male) roof

A nailless roof is a structure in which a board is laid on horizontally installed logs. The ends of the logs need to be cut into the transverse logs that form the gable.

In this case, the supporting structure is the end walls, "males", the place where the wall of the log house narrows. Logs, which are called slegs, are fastened in it by a serif method, they are covered with a roof.

Logs from the longitudinal walls are hidden inside the house, they need about three to work. For the upper part, as a rule, a large ridge log is used.

To make the roof structure more durable, you need to install a rafter leg. It is a triangular structure, and it is installed in the middle part of the roof.

There is a more economical arrangement of the roof: the end walls are sewn up with hewn boards, and rafters are used to cover the roof. Males do not do this in such a situation; a crate of thin logs is installed on them.

Types of truss systems

For the construction of a pitched roof, you can use hanging rafters and layered ones.

This design is the easiest to assemble and for its manufacture will require a small amount of material. Due to the fact that the layered rafters are held due to the emphasis on outer part walls, they put pressure on the walls of the building. The pressure on the roof causes a bursting effect on the walls, and from this they diverge.

Laminated truss systems are used when roof spans do not exceed 6 meters. If the span is more than 6 m, another support is installed. If the building has a central load-bearing wall, this will be an additional advantage.

Hanging truss systems

If roof spans are more than seven meters and additional supports are not provided, hanging rafters are used. This design does not exert a load on the walls, the effect of bursting is not noticeable. Puff, which is installed in the middle part rafter legs, strengthens the rafter.

Roof construction on males

The main load-bearing system in this type of roof is the end walls. Shallow recesses are made in the pediments, and logs (slegi) are installed in them. Therefore, the male roof is in some way a continuation of the wall, in which the logs become shorter and shorter towards the top.

The structure of such a roof can be assembled on the ground. You need to start the process with a base removed from the walls on temporary linings. The log cabin is cut not to its full height, but in parts, making the shifting of the crowns. The advantage of this technique is that you can customize the structure on the ground.

From the logs of the males, which are fastened together with dowels, they form an end wall. This makes it possible to preserve the stability of the pediment. And using dowels, you can achieve additional thermal insulation. Since this design does not have horizontal expansion, it is not entirely reliable.

In order to increase strength, you can connect poles with logs of males:

by cutting "in the paw" in a place where the logs around the corner are not indicated;
"in the paw with a slit";
cutting method "in the root spike".

If the work is done incorrectly and poorly, the house will be purged. Therefore, if you do not have the relevant experience, knowledge, trust a specialist.

At what angle should the roof slopes be?

This issue can be solved with the help of a plumb line nailed to the board and a cord that is attached in the middle of the board.

We raise the board so that the plumb line points to the center of the pediment. If you plan to build a roof with a different slope of the slopes, then the board must be moved to the corner, and the ends of the cord should be stretched towards the corners.

The board must be attached to the wall, the cords must be fixed in the corners. After that, you can already visualize the angles of the slopes. With the second part of the pediment, it is necessary to carry out a similar procedure. Use the water level and focus on the horizon set on the boards.

After the slope boundary is marked, continue to install the gable logs.

Cutting a ridge log can be done in two ways: in the first, we cover the pediment with a log, and in the second, we cover the ridge log with a male log.

If you chose the first option, then the gaps that form at the top of the pediment can be closed with short logs of males.

For the second option, experts advise using a crate of thick and massive logs. This way you will be able to level and raise the roof a bit. The most relevant is the use of lathing for a roof made of tess.

When erecting a roof, do not forget that its protrusion beyond the gables should not exceed 50 cm. In a situation where the extension is greater than this distance, you can strengthen the structure with a log with a large section.

Also, for strengthening, you can cut 2 or 3 ridge sleds and create a ledge in the form of a step in this way. The presence of lower slegs in this case is not necessary, they can be replaced with short logs.

The crate should lie flat. Since cut logs cannot be hewn, when cutting, do not forget to measure their end with a level. In order to check the flatness of the laying, you can run a flat board along the roof. If you find cavities, irregularities, compensate for them with sawdust; eliminate hunchbacks.

Roof construction with hanging rafters

A hanging rafter roof is a triangular frame whose beams run through the entire structure.

The pressure that acts on the system is distributed over the entire area of the frame: the vertical pressure on the rafters has a bursting effect, and the legs, which are cut into the beams, transfer pressure to the beam, this reduces the stress of the entire structure.

In the design of the roof with hanging rafters, there is a drawback - the bending of the beams. Since in such a situation there is no fulcrum for the bottom of the leg, experts suggest using a rafter system with a “headstock”. In this system, you can use a material with a smaller cross section.

Methods for joining wooden parts

For joining and joining building material use different techniques. Depending on the type of construction, bolts, dowels, dowels, nails, glue, staples are used.

Not only the reliability of the nodes, but also the stability of the entire structure depends on the dimensions of the plane at the junction of the elements.

With an increase in the contact area of the parts, the friction force increases. To complicate the nodal connection, instead of straight cuts on the bars, make locks like " dovetail" or "paw". In such cuts, a force arises that prevents the separation of wood elements.

The connection of large knots can be done independently, with the help of an ax, a saw. And the connection of small, complex joints is best left to professional carpenters.

Installation of rafters on a log house

Log roof truss system: nailless (male) roof, layered rafters, hanging truss systems.

Gable roof on a log house: analysis of construction options + technological subtleties

The construction of a roof over a log building is not an easy job, requiring the skills of a skilled carpenter and knowledge of materials science from the master. The performer will need to pre-practice in making connections. He must take into account the traditional shrinkage of walls made of wood. In order for a gable roof on a log house to be built flawlessly, information is needed about the methods of its construction, including ancient roofing technologies. The information we provide will be useful and independent craftsmen, and customers for the services of construction teams for meaningful control.

"Tricks" of wooden housing construction

The popularity of log baths, dachas, residential buildings is justified by the amazing atmosphere, which returns to folk origins. Buildings from natural wood are characterized by excellent thermal engineering and attractive price. A weighty advantage is the ability to spontaneously pass excess fumes. It is impossible not to pay tribute to the solid environmental benefits.

However, the sought-after natural building material has an impressive list of disadvantages. In addition to flammability and sensitivity to waterlogging, carpenters-builders and future owners must worry about:

The instability of the dimensions of wooden structures. Linear movements due to fluctuations in humidity with temperature will accompany the structure until the end of operation. In the early years, elements wooden system move more actively, over time, "playfulness" decreases, but does not disappear.
Mandatory shrinkage, taking into account which it is not customary to equip log cabins for at least a year, is better than two to three years after the crowns are assembled. The forest after laying sags by an average of 10-20%, which must be taken into account when designing a house. Least of all, the walls of glued laminated timber will sag, but its use will not completely eliminate the change in the height of the box.
The difference is in the vector direction of shrinkage. An intense change in size occurs across the log, i.e. perpendicular to the fibers. Along fibers size scaffolding changes slightly: shrinkage along the length of the trunk should not even be taken into account.

Without taking into account the above circumstances, the wooden roof will definitely “move out”. Between the foot of the house and roofing system there will be gaps that allow raindrops and melt water to pass through. Next, rotting of the wood will begin, as a result of the complete destruction of not only the upper building envelope, but also the house as a whole.

Taking into account the specifics of the material is not enough for the competent construction of a timber roof. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with all possible methods of construction in order to choose an option that is rational in terms of cost and effort. You need to understand what forces will act on walls made of logs or timber, by what method you can extinguish their action.

Varieties of roof angles for log cabins

Roofs with two slopes are ideally combined with chopped feet. Two steep pitched planes create the impression of a fabulous hut. The most suitable angle of inclination is 45º-60º, but variations in both directions have every right to exist.

A rival in the field of arranging log cabins for a gable structure can be a sloping roof, which has a similar or pentagonal configuration in section. Gable roofs over log cabins can be insulated or cold, attic or non-attic. As a finishing coating, all types of roofing materials are applicable, including shingles and reeds.

IN wooden construction the ancient technologies of erecting roofs with an angle have been preserved and new methods have appeared that allow the wood to move freely without the threat of destruction of the building. According to the device method, gable roofs of timber buildings are divided into two fundamental categories:

Roofs on males - on chopped and cohesive log gables. They complete the walls of the box at the ends, representing their natural continuation. load-bearing parts roof structure, lay down, according to the "male" method, they rest directly on the gables. A crate is laid on top for the installation of a finishing coating.
Roofs with truss system. They are built in accordance with the regulations that dictate standard construction technology. pitched roofs. Rafter roofs are hanging and layered, based on floor beams or on walls through the upper crown. The pediments are tritely sewn up with a board, due to which the construction budget is reduced by a couple with the effect of a log house.

In fact, roof manufacturers rarely follow just one technology. The truss structure can be combined with the male system. A hanging truss can be installed in the middle of the male roof so that the legs do not sag under their own weight, coupled with roofing and snow.

There are schemes that are generally difficult to attribute to a certain category, because. their crucial design features can be classified in various ways.

For example, the ceiling beam of a log house, a mat or translation, can play the role of a basis for installing layered rafters or serve as a puff that combines elements into a hanging triangle. The tightening of the truss truss can be moved higher, as suggested in another article describing the erection of a roof over a semi-attic. There are a lot of options, but in order to understand the principle of their device, you need to familiarize yourself with the classic schemes.

Rules for making a roof on males

It is a sin for roof builders according to the male scheme not to take advantage of the invaluable advantage of chopped boxes. You can disassemble and assemble them many times like a children's designer. Therefore, the upper crowns are tritely removed from their intended places and installed on a suitable flat area.

It is much more pleasant to work on firm ground without risk, and there is no need to move over shaky scaffolding and footbridges. Linings of aspen chocks are installed under the crown. They imitate the previous rows of logs, so that there are no complications with leveling to the horizon and fitting knots.

If we conditionally divide the log house into three horizontal parts, then the lower 2/3 will fall on the walls, and the upper third on the frame gable roof. In fact, this is a wedge converging top of a log house. They build it almost the same way, but gradually reduce the width of the end walls so that the edges of the gables resemble stairs with steps. Instead of long logs falling on the walls of the box, they lay down with a cut. They are cut not in every row, but after two or three.

Males, after erection to full height, are filed in order to form a clear triangular shape. Then the crate is mounted on the slab, the roofing material is on top.

The tops of the males are connected by a ridge slope, which can be laid in two different ways:

With the installation lay down at the top of the male. In such cases, the log that completes the pediment is cut into two edges. The stepped protrusions of the male are sawn off or hewn into a triangle. At its top there are uncovered areas that will need to be filled with shorties.
Covered with logs of the male. According to this technology, the specified ridge beam is covered with logs of the male, shortening towards the top. At the same time, the slopes are located below the line of future slopes. The crate then has to be built from logs of impressive thickness in order to align the plane of the slopes with the boundaries of the gables. Instead of laths, rafters can be installed, the thickness of which compensates for the lack of height in the plane formed by the slabs.

For the manufacture of slegs, the most even logs Ø 18-20 cm are taken. They are fastened with simple cuts "in the paw" or complicated analogues "with a cut" or "thorn". Because the edge of the pediment is hemmed or sawn off; cuts with horizontal parts of fasteners such as “into a frying pan” are not suitable. After all, part of the bearing element of the connection will be removed during processing.

The length of the legs is required to form the gable overhang of the roof. Usually it is 0.5 m. If it is decided to increase the width of the overhang, the slabs are laid in pairs or three in each "step" of the male in order to increase the bearing capacity of the structure. Upon completion of the construction of the roof frame, its geometry is checked by installing the board on an imaginary slope.

The bulges revealed by the board are cut off, the recesses are filled with wooden overlays. However, experienced carpenters advise not to sew on “patches”, but rather to chop more.

The old masters did not use fasteners at all in the manufacture of roofs on males. Structures of this kind are called roofs without nails. There were no gradually rusting rods in the body of wood, therefore the structures served for more than one hundred years.

Combination with rafters

It happens that the construction of a traditional male roof is not possible. For example, as a result of a zealous stacking of surpluses from the snails and males, the cut joints may suffer considerably. In such situations, the classic version is simply supplemented from above with layered rafters. The need for squeezing the humps is then automatically eliminated. The final alignment is made along the upper edges of the rafter legs.

The manufacture of rafters is carried out according to a template with marks for cuts and leg length. Chop them in a simple bowl. The accuracy of cutting the connections of the rafters with the slabs is not needed, on the contrary, the bowls should be 3-5 cm larger than the outline of the slab. The log house will inevitably settle, losing height. The rafters will remain almost the same size with the exception of a few mm. The settling box will drag the bottom of the rafters behind it, due to which the angle of connection of the bottom of the rafter and the upper crown will decrease. Those. rafters resting against the upper logs or floor beams will gradually move apart.

Safe for the roof, the displacement of the rafters with respect to the slope will be provided by a wide cut. There should be a gap between the tops of the rafter legs resting on the ridge beam. Moving apart at the bottom, at the top of the rafters during the period of intensive shrinkage, they will approach each other. After shrinkage, the tops are connected with a wooden overlay and / or a puff installed just below. It is possible, without waiting for shrinkage, to connect them with a hinge assembly, which allows wooden details systems to move without the formation of gaps between the box and the roof.

The lower heels of the rafters in the described scheme rest against the upper crown, which works like a Mauerlat, or against the edges of the mats - ceiling beams. The knots of the connections are made by cuttings with a spike, the cornice overhang is built up with fillies. So that the gable chopped roof is not blown away from the log house, the rafters are tied through one to the studs hammered into the second crown from the top with wire twists. In areas with high wind load, each rafter leg must be tied. After active shrinkage wooden structure, weakened twists should be tightened.

Two slopes with layered rafters

The scheme is similar to the previous type, only the legs are not needed at all. The name of the layered rafter legs is due to the fact that they rest on independent supports at the top and bottom. The lower heels rest on the upper crown, which serves as a Mauerlat, or on beams. ceiling. To support the top of the elements of the gable roof truss system above the log house, there are several options:

Ridge or prince's slug, laid between the males. The rafters laid on the top are not fastened or connected by a hinge for the reasons stated above.
Internal main wall. There should also be a gap between the top of the rafters, because. their edges rest on walls of different heights, therefore, with different shrinkage. There is no special sense in the device of males for such a roof, the pediments are tritely sheathed with a board.
The support structure installed on the mats under the ridge beam. Males in this case, again, are not constructed. To compensate for shrinkage supporting pillars are installed on screw adjusting devices, allowing, following a decrease in the height of the log house, to reduce the length support legs. earlier, instead of compensating devices, wooden linings were used, which were removed after shrinkage.

The cornice overhang of the sloping roof above the log house is most often provided by sewn-on fillies. Although it can be formed by the removal of the rafter legs, if they are attached not by cuts, but by sliding connecting devices. Sliding fasteners allow you to build roofs over chopped stacks without waiting for shrinkage.

Hanging roof device diagram

Hanging rafter legs got their name because they seem to hang over the equipped box. They have only walls as lower supports, and the same part of the rafter located opposite serves as the upper support. The lower heels are connected by a puff, due to which the hanging rafters turn into equilateral triangle, also called a truss arch or truss. The puff "takes on the chest" thrust, transmitted in a layered scheme to the walls.

Compensation for the action of the thrust by tightening is a significant plus of the hanging system. He was gladly borrowed by the builders of layered roofs, trying to minimize the forces that burst the walls of the house with an increase in the load on the slopes. The ceiling beam can successfully play the role of tightening. And then it really will not become clear whether it will be necessary to attribute to the layered or hanging category truss frame gable roof.

Priceless Dignity hanging systems is that for the production from the log roof boards do not have to go up. All patterned rafter triangles fit together perfectly and fit securely.

In the list of minuses, the first place is occupied by restrictions on overlapping spans. Systems without a central support do not cover large-span buildings. When arranging a house up to 5 m wide, a simple truss arch is used without additional details that increase the rigidity of the structure. Puffs for larger spans may bend from their own weight. To eliminate sagging in the center of the rafter triangle, a suspension headstock is installed.

To understand the essence of the construction of a hanging truss system, consider the technology for installing arches over a small log house. The lower heels of the rafters will rest on the ceiling beams, we will strengthen the connection of the upper edges with a wooden lining and screed. We entrust the formation of the cornice overhang with fillies, we entrust the responsibility of ensuring the rigidity of the structure to small supports. Males will not be built. The pediments created by the slopes after the installation work will be sewn with a board.

To mark the lines of the slopes, we find the centers of both ends and mark them on the upper crown. Focusing on the mark, we set the board vertically, any longitudinal edge of which will repeat the imaginary central axis. We will equip both ends with boards, mark the height of the roof on them, using a water or laser level. Between the boards you need to stretch the construction cord, indicating the ridge line of the roof.

The order of work on the installation of a hanging roof:

We align the bypasses of the beams that extend beyond the foot. We drive a nail into the extreme beams according to the design dimensions, pull the cord, mark the excess, saw off with a chainsaw.
On the ceiling beams, we mark the location of the nests required to install the rafter legs. Similarly, we hammer in nails, pull the cord and draw the groove lines for the future tooth on the rafter leg.
We make a truss truss template. We apply a board of suitable sizes with the lower edge to the first mat, upper edge you need to hold it so that the edge of the board lies under the cord that marks the ridge line. Where the board and the cord touch, put a mark and draw a line down from it using a plumb line. On the matrix, we draw the line of the lower washed down and mark the location of the tooth on the rafter where the nest is marked on the beam.
We make rafters according to the template and assemble them on a flat area.
We transfer the rafter triangles to the roof and install in place. We check the verticality with a plumb line and fasten it with temporary jibs.
On the mats inside the log house, with the help of a ruler, two nails and laces, we mark the grooves for supports under the rafter legs. This procedure, it seems to me, is more convenient to do along with the marking of nests.
We make supports by forming a spike at their base. We mark the height of the support in fact, trying it on the rafter leg.
We install drains, the top of which we fasten with two wooden plates.
We select the grooves in the extreme matrices for the installation of fillies.
We sew on the extreme fillies, hammer nails into them, stretch the cord between them.
We install intermediate fillies along the cord, after installation of which we draw up overhangs with a wind board.

From the inside, the rafter triangles should be connected by diagonal wind ties. Outside, the rigidity of the structure will be supported by the crate, the type of which is selected according to the type of finish.

Those who wish to equip a warm roof between the rafters will need to lay thermal insulation. Waterproofing is laid on top of the rafter legs in front of the batten, regardless of whether the structure will be insulated.

The examples and schemes of gable roofs over log boxes given by us will help determine the best construction option. Any of the basic versions can be modified and adapted to individual specifications. Information about the specifics of the device is useful both for those who are going to equip their property with their own hands, and for those who need to control the work.

In general, a gable roof on a log house is a widely used solution. This is a relatively simple installation, and the absence of problems with snow in the cold season. In addition, almost all materials are suitable: both metal tiles and slate. The main thing is to accurately calculate and design everything. The most important thing: the correct calculation of the roof slope. From 20 to 60 degrees depending on weather conditions in the region.

Log house of a gable roof: how to make a gable roof on a log house

In what ways can a gable roof be arranged on a log house, it is desirable to prefer new or old technology for erecting the roof of a log house.

Methods for attaching rafters to a log house

After erecting the walls and waiting for six months to complete the shrinkage, you can proceed to the next stage of construction - the installation of the roofing system. For wooden houses and baths, most often a standard gable roof with a significant slope is chosen, on which snow will not accumulate. The rafters for the log house must be strong and properly installed, the security of the walls and ceilings and the durability of the entire structure depend on the reliability of the roof. How to put rafters on a log house?

Mounting options for the truss system

Before installing the rafters, it is necessary to mount the ceiling beams. In the upper crown of the log house, it is necessary to make a technological hole, which is called a cut - a beam will be installed in it. In this case, the hole should not be through, so that the end of the ceiling beam does not suffer from the action of atmospheric phenomena.

The distance between the beams depends on what material is supposed to be used for the floor, and on the options for using the attic or attic room. The minimum recommended step is half a meter.

Installation of rafters on a log house can be carried out in two main ways:

Do-it-yourself installation and installation of rafters on a log house or bathhouse

The procedure for the construction of any building in general view simple enough. First, the foundation is laid, the walls are erected, the roof is mounted, and then the internal work is carried out. The topic of this article is the installation of do-it-yourself rafters on a log house.

Installing ceiling beams

If you have a building made of logs or timber, then the top 2 crowns do not need to be fixed during the construction of walls before installing the ceiling beams. They will be made special holes, called "cuts" for laying beams. The dimensions of the cuts are determined by the dimensions of the ceiling beams, which, in turn, are pre-calculated for the expected loads. It is possible that a cut is not made in the upper crown, but in this case, if it is necessary to replace the ceiling beam, problems will arise, since you will have to remove the upper crown or saw off the damaged beam.

The notch for the ceiling beam must be "deaf", i.e. blind. This will help protect the end of the beam from the effects of atmospheric phenomena.

The required step for installing ceiling beams is calculated based on the expected loads and the material you use for this, the minimum step is 50 cm.

After installing the ceiling beams, you can think about how to install the rafters on the house or bath.

There are few ways to assemble rafters, or rather, only 2:

Collect roof trusses on the ground and lift them to the house in finished form.
Collect directly on the roof and raise the elements of roof trusses there.

The first method is good for relatively light structures that can be lifted by several people. The second is used for massive rafters, which are difficult to lift manually into the house. If you have the ability to lift the rafters with a crane, you can also assemble heavy trusses on the ground.

We collect roof trusses on the ground

In previous articles, we talked about how to connect various elements roof trusses. In this article, we will consider a specific example of assembling hanging rafters with a crossbar for a 5x4 bath with a gable roof. We will put the rafters after assembly on the ground - it’s more convenient.

The rafters are made of edged boards "fifty" 10 cm wide. The crossbar and puff are made of the same material. The length of the rafter legs is 280 cm. The length of the puff is 440 cm. We install the crossbar at a height of 50 cm from the ridge. Slope angles - 40 °. The assembly instructions are due to the design of the hanging rafters. The upper ends of the rafter legs rest against each other in the ridge, for this we saw off their ends so that the lower ends create an angle of 40 ° with tightening (see photo). We saw off the lower ends at the right angle too. You can fasten with bolts, pads, nails, etc., having previously calculated the required amount for each node.

The crossbar gives additional rigidity to the rafters. To install it, we make a cut in the rafter leg to the width of the crossbar. At the ends of the crossbar we make a tooth with a length equal to the width of the rafter, and a thickness equal to the depth of the cut, on the rafter leg. Fasten with screws, nails or other fasteners.

Do-it-yourself installation of rafters begins with extreme trusses, so it is better to sheathe them immediately on the ground. To do this, after 40 cm on the rafters we fill the bars for attaching the sheathing, the material for the bars can be taken in the size of 40x40 or 50x50. Sheathing boards should protrude beyond the puff to a width of 2.5 cm or more so that water from the pediment does not flow onto the sheathing of the log cabin of the bath. When the cornice is sheathed, this issue will be hidden by its sheathing.

You can sheathe the gable not vertically, but horizontally. Then the crate is stuffed vertically, tying the puff and rafter legs. Here, too, it is necessary to provide 2.5 cm for the outlet on the side of the puff, for the same purposes as in the version of the vertical skin.

Installing assembled farms

After all the farms are assembled, they must be sequentially raised to the roof.

The technology for installing rafters is as follows:

We raise and fix the extreme farms. To do this, we drill 2-3 holes in the puff for attaching the rafters to the beams of the upper crown of the log house. We place a plumb line on the crossbar in the center to control the verticality of the farm.
If it is required by calculation, we install additional jibs. You can also temporarily fix trusses with jibs until complete installation the entire system. After all trusses are raised and installed, the jibs can be removed.
We install the central truss, also checking its verticality and fixing it with additional elements if necessary.
We install the rest of the farms in the same way as the central one.
We connect the farms with each other using the crate. It can be made from a bar, edged or unedged boards, plywood, OSB boards. The choice of material for the crate is determined by the choice of roofing material with which you are going to cover the roof.

In order to assemble the rafters on the roof in the same way, 4 people are needed. The rafter legs are connected in a horizontal position, and then with the help of ropes they rise and are installed in place. In this option, difficulties may arise when installing intermediate trusses, since those already installed will interfere with their lifting.

As you can see, in the above example, the installation of roof trusses was carried out in the absence of a ridge run. If the roof needs ridge run, then it is no longer possible to collect rafters on the ground. In this case, they will have to be lifted to the roof in disassembled form and assembled already at the installation site.

Roof rafter assembly

If the project of your house provides for layered rafters, and not hanging ones, as in the previous example, then in order to mount them, you need additional support. How to put the rafters correctly in this case? First you need to install a ridge run.

If the gables of your house are made of bricks or blocks, then the girder can be supported on them, while the ends of the girder should protrude beyond the gables so that you can form a cornice overhang. Runs are usually made of logs or timber. The standard length of such material is 6 m. Manually lifting such a log onto the roof of a house is quite problematic; most likely, a crane will be required. Gables must withstand the pressure of the run, so they are made using reinforced masonry. By the way, it is possible to carry out the installation of the roof without rafters, only with the help of ridge and side runs. In this case, the crate is stuffed into the runs. This method is applicable for a roof with a cold attic, if you plan to use the attic for housing, then keep in mind that in the attic the insulation must be able to ventilate, so you still have to use layered rafters.

For this type of rafters, the location of all elements in the same plane is unimportant, and the rafters can be laid on the ridge run in turn.

Depending on the material and design loads, the rafters may have additional elements in the form of braces, struts, racks. We described the scheme of their fastening in previous articles. If, according to the project of your house, the pediments are not designed for the installation of a ridge run, it is mounted on several racks that are installed on a bed. In this case, the bed is first mounted, the racks are mounted on it, then the ridge run, and only then the layered rafters.

Do-it-yourself installation and installation of rafters on a log house or bathhouse: technology

Installation of rafters is possible in 2 ways. The first is when the roof truss is assembled on the ground and rises to the roof already in finished form. The second - when the installation of rafters is carried out immediately on the roof.

In order for a gable roof on a log house to be built flawlessly, information is needed about the methods of its construction, including ancient roofing technologies. The information we offer will be useful to both independent craftsmen and customers of construction teams for meaningful control.

The popularity of log baths, dachas, residential buildings is justified by the amazing atmosphere, which returns to folk origins. Buildings made of natural wood are distinguished by excellent thermal engineering and an attractive price. A weighty advantage is the ability to spontaneously pass excess fumes. It is impossible not to pay tribute to the solid environmental benefits.

The instability of the dimensions of wooden structures. Linear movements due to fluctuations in humidity with temperature will accompany the structure until the end of operation. In the first years, the elements of the wooden system move more actively, over time, the “playfulness” decreases, but does not disappear.
Mandatory shrinkage, taking into account which it is not customary to equip log cabins for at least a year, is better than two to three years after the crowns are assembled. The forest after laying sags by an average of 10-20%, which must be taken into account when designing a house. Least of all, the walls of glued laminated timber will sag, but its use will not completely eliminate the change in the height of the box.
The difference is in the vector direction of shrinkage. An intense change in size occurs across the log, i.e. perpendicular to the fibers. Along the fibers, the size of the scaffolding varies slightly: shrinkage along the length of the trunk should not even be taken into account.

Without taking into account the above circumstances, the wooden roof will definitely “move out”. Gaps will appear between the foot of the house and the roofing system, allowing raindrops and melt water to pass through. Next, rotting of the wood will begin, as a result of the complete destruction of not only the upper building envelope, but also the house as a whole.

Varieties of roof angles for log cabins

A rival in the field of arranging log cabins can become a gable structure that has a similar or pentagonal configuration in section. Gable roofs over log cabins can be insulated or cold, attic or non-attic. As a finishing coating, all types of roofing materials are applicable, including shingles and reeds.

In wooden construction, ancient technologies for erecting corner roofs have been preserved and new methods have appeared that allow wood to move freely without the threat of destruction of the building. According to the device method, gable roofs of timber buildings are divided into two fundamental categories:

Roofs on males - on chopped and cohesive log gables. They complete the walls of the box at the ends, representing their natural continuation. The bearing parts of the roof structure, laid down, according to the "male" method, rest directly on the gables. A crate is laid on top for the installation of a finishing coating.
Roofs with truss system. They are built in accordance with the requirements dictated by the standard. Rafter roofs are hanging and layered, based on floor beams or on walls through the upper crown. The pediments are tritely sewn up with a board, due to which the construction budget is reduced by a couple with the effect of a log house.

There are schemes that are generally difficult to attribute to a certain category, because. their crucial design features can be classified in various ways.

For example, the ceiling beam of a log house, a mat or translation, can play the role of a basis for installing layered rafters or serve as a puff that combines elements into a hanging triangle. The puff of the truss truss can be moved higher, as suggested, describing the erection of a roof over a semi-attic. There are a lot of options, but in order to understand the principle of their device, you need to familiarize yourself with the classic schemes.

Rules for making a roof on males

If we conditionally divide the log house into three horizontal parts, then the lower 2/3 will fall on the walls, and the upper third on the frame of the gable roof. In fact, this is a wedge converging top of a log house. They build it almost the same way, but gradually reduce the width of the end walls so that the edges of the gables resemble stairs with steps. Instead of long logs falling on the walls of the box, they lay down with a cut. They are cut not in every row, but after two or three.

Males, after erection to full height, are filed in order to form a clear triangular shape. Then the crate is mounted on the slab, the roofing material is on top.

The tops of the males are connected by a ridge slope, which can be laid in two different ways:

With the installation lay down at the top of the male. In such cases, the log that completes the pediment is cut into two edges. The stepped protrusions of the male are sawn off or hewn into a triangle. At its top there are uncovered areas that will need to be filled with shorties.
Covered with logs of the male. According to this technology, the specified ridge beam is covered with logs of the male, shortening towards the top. At the same time, the slopes are located below the line of future slopes. The crate then has to be built from logs of impressive thickness in order to align the plane of the slopes with the boundaries of the gables. Instead of laths, rafters can be installed, the thickness of which compensates for the lack of height in the plane formed by the slabs.

The bulges revealed by the board are cut off, the recesses are filled with wooden overlays. However, experienced carpenters advise not to sew on “patches”, but rather to chop more.

Combination with rafters

Safe for the roof, the displacement of the rafters with respect to the slope will be provided by a wide cut. There should be a gap between the tops of the rafter legs resting on the ridge beam. Moving apart at the bottom, at the top of the rafters during the period of intensive shrinkage, they will approach each other. After shrinkage, the tops are connected with a wooden overlay and / or a puff installed just below. It is possible, without waiting for shrinkage, to connect them with a hinge assembly, which allows the wooden parts of the system to move without gaps between the box and the roof.

The lower heels of the rafters in the described scheme rest against the upper crown, which works like a Mauerlat, or against the edges of the mats - ceiling beams. The knots of the connections are made by cuttings with a spike, the cornice overhang is built up with fillies. So that the gable chopped roof is not blown away from the log house, the rafters are tied through one to the studs hammered into the second crown from the top with wire twists. In areas with high wind load, each rafter leg must be tied. After active shrinkage of a wooden structure, weakened twists should be tightened.

Two slopes with layered rafters

The scheme is similar to the previous type, only the legs are not needed at all. The name of the layered rafter legs is due to the fact that they rest on independent supports at the top and bottom. The lower heels rest on the upper crown, which serves as a Mauerlat, or on the beams of the ceiling. To support the top of the elements of the gable roof truss system above the log house, there are several options:

Ridge or prince's slug, laid between the males. The rafters laid on the top are not fastened or connected by a hinge for the reasons stated above.
Internal main wall. There should also be a gap between the top of the rafters, because. their edges rest on walls of different heights, therefore, with different shrinkage. There is no special sense in the device of males for such a roof, the pediments are tritely sheathed with a board.
The support structure installed on the mats under the ridge beam. Males in this case, again, are not constructed. To compensate for shrinkage, the support posts are installed on screw adjusting devices, which allow, following a decrease in the height of the log house, to reduce the length of the support posts. earlier, instead of compensating devices, wooden linings were used, which were removed after shrinkage.

Hanging roof device diagram

Hanging rafter legs got their name because they seem to hang over the equipped box. They have only walls as lower supports, and the same part of the rafter located opposite serves as the upper support. The lower heels are connected by a puff, due to which the hanging rafters turn into an equilateral triangle, also called a truss arch or truss. The puff "takes on the chest" thrust, transmitted in a layered scheme to the walls.

Compensation for the action of the thrust by tightening is a significant plus of the hanging system. He was gladly borrowed by the builders of layered roofs, trying to minimize the forces that burst the walls of the house with an increase in the load on the slopes. The ceiling beam can successfully play the role of tightening. And then it really will not become clear whether the truss frame of a gable roof will need to be attributed to the layered or hanging category.

The priceless advantage of hanging systems is that for the production from the log roof boards do not have to go up. All patterned rafter triangles fit together perfectly and fit securely.

We will equip both ends with boards, mark the height of the roof on them, using a water or laser level. Between the boards you need to stretch the construction cord, indicating the ridge line of the roof.

The order of work on the installation of a hanging roof:

We align the bypasses of the beams that extend beyond the foot. We drive a nail into the extreme beams according to the design dimensions, pull the cord, mark the excess, saw off with a chainsaw.
On the ceiling beams, we mark the location of the nests required to install the rafter legs. Similarly, we hammer in nails, pull the cord and draw the groove lines for the future tooth on the rafter leg.
We make a truss truss template. We apply a board of suitable sizes with the lower edge to the first mat, the upper edge must be held so that the edge of the board lies under the lace indicating the ridge line. Where the board and the cord touch, put a mark and draw a line down from it using a plumb line. On the matrix, we draw the line of the lower washed down and mark the location of the tooth on the rafter where the nest is marked on the beam.
We make rafters according to the template and assemble them on a flat area.
We transfer the rafter triangles to the roof and install in place. We check the verticality with a plumb line and fasten it with temporary jibs.
On the mats inside the log house, with the help of a ruler, two nails and laces, we mark the grooves for supports under the rafter legs. This procedure, it seems to me, is more convenient to do along with the marking of nests.
We make supports by forming a spike at their base. We mark the height of the support in fact, trying it on the rafter leg.
We install drains, the top of which we fasten with two wooden plates.
We select the grooves in the extreme matrices for the installation of fillies.
We sew on the extreme fillies, hammer nails into them, stretch the cord between them.
We install intermediate fillies along the cord, after installation of which we draw up overhangs with a wind board.

During the construction of private houses, the roof is most often made gable. There are reasons for this. First, it is reliable. Handles wind and snow loads well. The second - it is compatible with any roofing. The third is relatively inexpensive. The fourth is a simple design that is difficult to spoil. Fifth - it looks attractive. All this, and also the fact that a do-it-yourself gable roof is built without special knowledge, determines its popularity.

Do-it-yourself assembled gable roof ready for installation of roofing

Step-by-step installation of a gable roof

As you saw above, there are a lot of truss systems. Accordingly, when assembling each has its own characteristics, but in general the order is the same. It is necessary to say about the general step: pre-drying and processing of wood. This step is required if you bought fresh lumber, not dried.

The use of raw wood in the construction of the roof natural humidity will lead to problems: the beams will bend, they will dry out, the geometry will change. All this will lead to the emergence of stress points and at the slightest sign of overload (a lot of snow, strong wind or rain), negative processes will begin. Their elimination is a complex and costly undertaking. Therefore, either buy dry wood (no more than 20%, ideally chamber drying 8-12%), or buy material a couple of months in advance, put it in ventilated piles. After that, treat with the necessary impregnations (from fungal attack and to reduce flammability) and only after that use it in the installation of the truss system.

Timber must be dried in ventilated stacks. To do this, they are laid in short pieces of boards. They are placed a meter from the edges and further through the meter. Spacers must be installed under the bottom

We will talk about the main stages of assembly, about how to make a gable roof with your own hands in this section.

Mauerlat

The assembly of the gable roof truss system begins with the installation of the Mauerlat. It must be set strictly horizontally, therefore, before starting installation, the horizontalness of the wall to which it is attached is carefully checked, if necessary, it is leveled cement mortar. You can continue work after the solution gains 50% strength.

Depending on the system, this is a beam with a section of 150 * 150 mm or a board with dimensions of 50 * 150 mm. It is attached to top row wall masonry. If the house is wooden, its role is played by the upper crown. If the walls are made of light building blocks - foam concrete or aerated concrete and others - their rigidity is not enough to redistribute the load. In this case, a reinforced concrete belt is made over the last row of masonry, into which embedded fasteners are embedded - wire or studs. A bar or board is then mounted on them.

There are several ways to connect walls and Mauerlat:

In the masonry (in the reinforced concrete belt) a smooth rolled wire of large diameter is fixed (two ends stick up). The board is then rendered in necessary places holes through which the wire is threaded. She then twists and bends.
Studs with a diameter of at least 12 mm are immured in the wall. Under them, holes are made in the Mauerlat, a beam / board is placed) and tightened with nuts with wide washers.
Aligning the beam or board along the outer or inner edge of the wall, take a drill with a diameter of 12 mm, make holes for the anchor bolts. They (the same diameter of 12 mm) are hammered to the very hat, then tightened with a key.

The distance between the studs (wire) should not be more than 120 cm. Cut-off waterproofing must be laid on the wall (belt) under the Mauerlat. It can be rolled roofing felt or waterproofing in two layers, it can be smeared with bituminous mastic.

Rafter installation

Types of roof systems gable roof there are more than a dozen. First of all, you need to choose what yours will look like. Further, in order to make it easier to work, a template is made from thin boards for all cuts, cuts and other similar details. To do this, you may need to assemble the first form on the roof, and then make templates for the finished one.

The assembly order depends on the type of truss system. If the rafters are layered, they are installed gradually, assembling from the elements directly on the roof. In this case, it is convenient if the beams of the ceiling are laid and, if possible, the draft flooring of the attic or attic.

In systems with hanging rafters, a farm is assembled on the ground - a ready-made triangle of puffs and rafter legs with all the required struts, racks. The required number of farms is assembled at once. Then they are lifted to the roof, placed vertically there and attached to the Mauerlat.

On the one hand, this is convenient - it is easier to work on the ground, with a high assembly speed, the accuracy is high: one farm is not much different from the other, which simplifies the procedure. But it can be difficult to raise finished trusses, especially for large buildings. To make this easier, two inclined boards are installed, which at one end rest against the ground, and the other sticks out a little above the wall. Farms are brought closer to this “lift”, one by one they are installed below, ropes are tied and pulled along the boards to the roof. In the absence of a winch or crane, this is the most acceptable method.

The assembly of rafters requires certain knowledge: how and in what order to mount them, how to mark and make cuts. See the video for the assembly of one of the schemes with a headstock.

Assembly order of the truss system

Everything, the do-it-yourself gable roof is assembled and ready for installation of roofing material.

The process of installing the rafters itself raises enough questions, but there are many ways and it is impossible to tell about them all. See one of them in the video. The system is large and went up to the roof in parts, and there it was already assembled into a single structure. For big houses it's comfortable.

Features of the installation of the truss system of a wooden house

The difference between wooden houses is that the log house shrinks, and this leads to a change in the geometry of the truss system. If the elements are fixed rigidly, the roof may fall apart. Therefore, the mounts are made floating. There are special sliding fasteners, which in this case attach the rafters to the upper crown and to the girders, if any (see photo).

In order for the rafter to move freely during shrinkage, its long part is fixed strictly parallel to its edge, and the support is placed strictly perpendicular. If necessary, a platform is cut out under it. Mark the mount so that the hook is in the lowest position or near it. They are mounted on special self-tapping screws that come with the kit (ordinary ones do not fit). If the installation is done on a log, so that the rafter leg does not slip along it, a semicircular hole is cut out in the lower part, on which it will rest.

Such fasteners are sold on any construction market, it is called "slippery". How to attach the slippery to the beam, see the video.

Video on assembling and installing a gable roof truss system

Building a gable roof with your own hands is not easy: there are a lot of subtleties and nuances, there are different ways fixings, extensions. Describing them in words is a thankless job. This is the case when it is better to see. Below is a selection of videos that you might find useful.

Video report on how a gable roof is made

The story of the owner of the house about the stages of construction. There are interesting technical points that may be useful.

Two types of rafter connection: rigid and sliding

Video about the two most problematic types of connections.

How to determine the angle of the rafters

Full video report on the assembly of the truss system

This movie is just under an hour long, but the entire process is shown from start to finish with plenty of detail. The roof is placed on, but when installed on buildings of a different type (except for wooden houses), there is no difference.

A gable roof or gable roof is a roof with two slopes, i.e. having 2 inclined surfaces (slopes) of a rectangular shape.

Gable Roof Frame Effect design features perfectly combines ease of installation and maintenance with reliability and durability. These and many other parameters make the construction of a gable roof a practical and rational solution for private and commercial housing construction.

In this article, we will consider how to make a gable roof truss system with your own hands. For effective perception of the material, it is presented in the form of step-by-step instructions from A to Z, from selection and calculations, to installation of a Mauerlat and a crate under the roof. Each stage is accompanied by tables, diagrams, drawings, drawings and photos.

The popularity of the roof with a house is due to a number of advantages:

design variability;
simplicity in calculations;
natural flow of water;
the integrity of the design reduces the likelihood of leaks;
profitability;
preservation of the useful area of the attic or the possibility of arranging an attic;
high maintainability;
strength and wear resistance.

Types of gable roof

The installation of a gable roof truss system depends primarily on its design.

There are several options for gable roofs (types, types):

The most common version of the roof device due to its simplicity and reliability. Due to the symmetry, a uniform distribution of loads on the load-bearing walls and the Mauerlat is achieved. The type and thickness of the insulation do not affect the choice of material.

The cross section of the beam makes it possible to provide a margin of bearing capacity. There is no possibility of bending the rafters. Supports and spacers can be placed almost anywhere.

A clear drawback is the impossibility of arranging a full-fledged attic floor. Due to sharp corners, “blind” zones appear that are unsuitable for use.

The device of one angle more than 45° leads to a decrease in the amount of unused area. There is an opportunity to make living rooms under the roof. At the same time, the requirements for the calculation are increasing, because. the load on the walls and foundation will be distributed unevenly.

This roof design allows you to equip a full-fledged second floor under the roof.

Naturally, a simple gable truss roof differs from a broken one, not only visually. The main difficulty lies in the complexity of the calculations.

The design of the gable roof truss system

Building a roof of any complexity with your own hands involves knowledge of the purpose of the main structural elements.

The locations of the elements are shown in the photo.

Mauerlat. Designed to distribute the load from the truss system to the load-bearing walls of the building. For the arrangement of the Mauerlat, a beam of durable wood is selected. Preferably larch, pine, oak. The cross section of the beam depends on its type - solid or glued, as well as on the estimated age of the structure. The most popular sizes are 100x100, 150x150 mm.
Advice. For a metal truss system, the Mauerlat must also be metal. For example, a channel or an I-profile.

rafter leg. The main element of the system. For the manufacture of rafter legs, a durable beam or log is used. The legs connected from above form a farm.

The silhouette of the roof truss determines the appearance of the structure. Examples of farms in the photo.

Rafter parameters are important. They will be discussed below.

puff- connects the rafter legs and gives them rigidity.

Run:

Skate run, mounted at the junction of one rafter to another. In the future, a roof ridge will be installed on it.

Side runs, they provide the truss with additional rigidity. Their number and size depend on the load on the system.

Rafter rack- vertically located beam. It also takes on part of the load from the weight of the roof. In a simple gable roof, it is usually located in the center. With a significant span width - in the center and on the sides. In an asymmetrical gable roof - the installation location depends on the length of the rafters. With a sloping roof and the arrangement of one room in the attic attic, the racks are located on the sides, leaving free space for movement. If there are supposed to be two rooms, the racks are located in the center and on the sides.

The location of the rack depending on the length of the roof is shown in the figure.

Strut. Serves as a support for the rack.

Advice. Installing the brace at an angle of 45° significantly reduces the risk of deformation from wind and snow loads.

In regions with a significant wind and snow load, not only longitudinal struts are installed (located in the same plane with the rafter pair), but also diagonal ones.

Sill. Its purpose is to serve as a support for the rack and a place for attaching the strut.

crate. Designed for movement during construction works and fixing roofing material. It is installed perpendicular to the rafter legs.

Advice. An important purpose of the crate is to redistribute the load from the roofing material to the truss system.

The presence of a drawing and a diagram indicating the location of all the listed structural elements will help in the work.

Advice. Be sure to add data on the passage of the ventilation shaft and chimney to the scheme of the gable roof truss system.

The technology of their device is determined by the type of roof.

The choice of material for rafters

When calculating the material for a gable roof, you need to choose quality wood no damage or wormholes. The presence of knots for beams, Mauerlat and rafters is not allowed.

For boards, there should be a minimum of knots, and they should not fall out. Wood must be durable and treated with the necessary preparations that will enhance its properties.

Advice. The length of the knot should not exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the timber.

Calculation of the truss system of a gable roof

Calculation of material parameters milestone, therefore, we present the calculation algorithm step by step.

It is important to know: the entire truss system consists of many triangles, as the most rigid element. In turn, if the slopes have a different shape, i.e. are an irregular rectangle, then you need to divide it into separate components and calculate the load and the amount of materials for each. After calculations, summarize the data.

1. Calculation of the load on the truss system

The load on the rafters can be of three types:

Permanent loads. Their action will always be felt by the truss system. Such loads include the weight of the roof, lathing, insulation, films, additional elements of the roof, finishing materials for . The weight of the roof is the sum of the weight of all its constituent elements, it is easier to take into account such a load. On average, the value of the constant load on the rafters is 40-45 kg / sq.m.

Advice. To make the margin of safety for the rafter system, it is better to add 10% to the calculation.

For reference: The weight of some roofing materials per 1 sq.m. presented in the table

Advice. It is desirable that the weight of the roofing material per 1 sq.m. roof area, did not exceed 50 kg.

Variable loads. Valid for different periods different strength. Such loads include: wind load and its strength, snow load, precipitation intensity.

In fact, the roof slope is like a sail and, given the wind load, the entire roof structure can be destroyed.

The calculation is carried out according to the formula: wind load is equal to the indicator for the region, multiplied by the correction factor. These indicators are contained in the SNiP "Loads and Impacts" and are determined not only by the region, but also by the location of the house. For example, on private house, surrounded by high-rise buildings, there are fewer loads. A detached country house or cottage is experiencing increased wind loads.

2. Calculation of the snow load on the roof

The calculation of the roof for snow load is carried out according to the formula:

Complete snow load equals the weight of the snow multiplied by the correction factor. The coefficient takes into account wind pressure and aerodynamic influence.

The weight of snow, which falls on 1 sq.m. roof area (according to SNiP 2.01.07-85) is in the range of 80-320 kg / sq.m.

The coefficients showing the dependence on the slope angle are shown in the photo.

Nuance. With a slope angle of more than 60 ° snow load does not affect the calculation. Since the snow will quickly slide down and will not affect the strength of the timber.

Special loads. Accounting for such loads is carried out in places with high seismic activity, tornadoes, storm winds. For our latitudes, it is enough to make a safety margin.

Nuance. The simultaneous action of many factors causes a synergy effect. This is worth considering (see photo).

Assessment of the condition and bearing capacity of walls and foundations

It should be borne in mind that the roof has a significant weight that can harm the rest of the building.

Determination of the roof configuration:

simple symmetrical;
simple asymmetric;
broken line.

How harder shape roofs, the greater the number of roof trusses and sub-rafter elements is needed to create the necessary margin of safety.

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The angle of inclination of a gable roof is determined primarily by the roofing material. After all, each of them puts forward their own requirements.

soft roof - 5-20°;
metal tile, slate, corrugated board, ondulin - 20-45 °.

It should be noted that increasing the angle increases the area of \u200b\u200bthe space under the roof, but also the amount of material. What affects the overall cost of work.

Nuance. The minimum slope angle of a gable roof must be at least 5°.

5. Calculation of the pitch of the rafters

The pitch of the rafters of a gable roof for residential buildings can be from 60 to 100 cm. The choice depends on the roofing material and the weight of the roof structure. Then the number of rafter legs is calculated by dividing the length of the slope by the distance between the rafter pairs plus 1. The resulting number determines the number of legs per slope. For the second number, you need to multiply by 2.

The length of the rafters for the attic roof is calculated using the Pythagorean theorem.

Parameter "a"(roof height) is set independently. Its value determines the possibility of arranging a dwelling under the roof, the convenience of being in the attic, the consumption of material for the construction of the roof.

Parameter "b" equal to half the width of the building.

Parameter "c" is the hypotenuse of the triangle.

Advice. To the value obtained, you need to add 60-70 cm for sawing and taking the rafter leg out of the wall.

It should be noted that the maximum length of the beam is 6 r.m. Therefore, if necessary, the timber for the rafters can be spliced (building, joining, joining).

The method of splicing the rafters along the length is shown in the photo.

The width of the rafters for the roof depends on the distance between opposite load-bearing walls.

7. Calculation of the section of the rafters

The cross section of the gable roof rafters depends on several factors:

load, we already wrote about it;

type of material used. For example, a log can withstand one load, a beam - another, a glued beam - a third;

rafter leg length;

type of wood used in construction;

distance between rafters (rafter pitch).

You can determine the cross section of the beam for the rafters, knowing the distance between the rafters and the length of the rafters, using the data below.

Rafter cross section - table

Advice. The larger the installation step of the rafters, the greater the load on one rafter pair. So, the cross section of the rafters needs to be increased.

Dimensions of lumber (beams and boards) for a gable truss system:

thickness (section) of the Mauerlat - 10x10 or 15x15 cm;

the thickness of the rafter leg and puffs is 10x15 or 10x20 cm. Sometimes a beam of 5x15 or 5x20 cm is used;

run and strut - 5x15 or 5x20. Depending on the width of the leg;

rack - 10x10 or 10x15;

bed - 5x10 or 5x15 (depending on the width of the rack);

thickness (section) of the roof lathing - 2x10, 2.5x15 (depending on the roofing material).

Types of gable roof truss system

For the considered roof structure, there are 2 options: layered and hanging rafters.

Consider each type in detail in order to make an informed choice.

hanging rafters

They are used with a roof width of not more than 6 r.m. The installation of hanging rafters is carried out by attaching the legs to the load-bearing wall and the ridge run. The design of hanging rafters is special in that the rafter legs are under the influence of a bursting force. hanging rafters with a puff installed between the legs, allow you to reduce its influence. The puff in the truss system can be wooden or metal. Often puffs are placed at the bottom, then they play a role bearing beams. It is important to ensure that the puff is securely fastened to the rafter leg. Because a bursting force is also transmitted to it.

Advice.
The higher the puff is located, the greater the strength it should have.
If the puff is not installed, the load-bearing walls can simply “disperse” from the pressure created by the truss system.

Rafters

They are used in the arrangement of roofs of any size. The design of the layered rafters provides for the presence of a bed and a rack. Lying lying parallel to the Mauerlat takes on part of the load. Thus, the rafter legs seem to be inclined towards each other and are supported by the rack. The rafter legs of the layered system work only for bending. And the ease of installation also tips the scales in their favor. The only downside is the stand.

Combined

Due to the fact that modern roofs differ in a large variety of forms and complexity of configurations, a combined type of truss system is used.

After choosing the type of truss system, you can accurately calculate the amount of materials. Record the calculation results. At the same time, professionals recommend drawing up drawings for each element of the roof.

Installation of a gable roof truss system

After the gable roof rafters are calculated, installation can begin. We break the process into stages and give a description of each of them. You will get a kind of step-by-step instruction containing additional information on each stage.

1. Attaching the Mauerlat to the wall

The beam is installed along the length of the wall on which the rafters will rest.

In log cabins, the role of the Mauerlat is played by the upper crown. In buildings built from porous material (aerated concrete, foam concrete) or brick, the Mauerlat is installed along the entire length of the load-bearing wall. In other cases, it can be installed between the rafter legs.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Since the length of the Mauerlat exceeds standard sizes lumber, it has to be spliced.

The connection of the Mauerlat with each other is done as shown in the figure.

How to connect the Mauerlat?

Washed down the bars is made only at an angle of 90 °. Connections are made using bolts. Nails, wire, wooden dowels are not used.

How to fix the Mauerlat?

The Mauerlat is installed on top of the wall. Mounting technology provides for several ways to mount the Mauerlat:

strictly in the center of the bearing wall;
offset to one side.

Advice.
Mauerlat cannot be placed closer than 5 cm to the outer edge of the wall.

To protect the beam for the Mauerlat from damage, it is laid on a layer waterproofing material, which most often acts as an ordinary roofing material.

The reliability of fastening the Mauerlat is an important aspect of construction. This is due to the fact that the roof slope is like a sail. That is, it experiences a strong wind load. Therefore, the Mauerlat must be firmly fixed to the wall.

Methods for attaching the Mauerlat to the wall and rafters

Anchor bolts. Ideal for monolithic construction.

Wooden dowels. Are used for fellings from a log and a bar. But, they are always used with additional fasteners.

Staples.

Stud or armature. It is used if the cottage is built of porous materials (aerated concrete, foam concrete).

Sliding fastening (hinged). The bundle in this way allows you to ensure the displacement of the rafter legs when the house shrinks.

Annealed wire (knitting, steel). It is used as an additional fastening in most cases.

2. Production of roof trusses or pairs

Installation is carried out in two ways:

installation of bars directly on the roof. It is not used often, since it is problematic to perform all the work, measurements, trimming at a height. But it allows you to completely do the installation yourself;

assembly on the ground. That is, individual elements (triangles or pairs) for the truss system can be assembled at the bottom, and then raised to the roof. The advantage of such a system is faster work at height. The downside is that the weight assembled structure roof truss can be significant. To lift it, you need special equipment.

Advice. Before assembling the rafter legs, you need to mark up. It is very convenient to use templates for this purpose. The truss pairs assembled according to the template will be exactly the same. To make a template, you need to take two boards, the length of each of which is equal to the length of one rafter, and are interconnected.

3. Installation of rafter legs

The collected pairs rise up and are installed on the Mauerlat. To do this, at the bottom of the rafter legs, you need to make a drink.

Advice. Since the slots on the Mauerlat will weaken it, you can only cut down on the rafter leg. To wash down was the same and fit snugly to the base, you need to use a template. It is cut out of plywood.

Methods for attaching the rafter leg are shown in the figure.

You need to start installing rafter pairs from opposite ends of the roof.

Advice. To properly install the rafter legs, it is better to use temporary struts and struts.

A twine is stretched between the fixed pairs. It will simplify the installation of subsequent rafter pairs. And also, will indicate the level of the skate.

If the rafter system is mounted directly on the roof of the house, then after installing the two extreme rafter legs, the ridge support is installed. Further, half of the rafter pairs are attached to it.

It is worth noting that the opinions of professionals differ on this issue. Some advise using a staggered mounting order, which will evenly distribute the increasing load on the walls and foundation more evenly. This order involves the installation of one rafter in a checkerboard pattern. After part of the rafter legs is installed, the missing parts of the pair are mounted. Others insist that you need to do a consistent installation of each pair. Depending on the size of the structure and the configuration of the truss, the reinforcement of the rafter legs is carried out with props and racks.

Nuance. Additional structural elements are connected by cutting. It is preferable to fix them with building brackets.

If necessary, you can lengthen the rafter leg.

Methods for splicing rafter legs are shown in the photo.

Advice. The method by which the Mauerlat is lengthened (washed down at 90 °) cannot be used in this case. This will weaken the rafter.

4. Installing the gable roof ridge

The ridge knot of the roof is made by connecting the rafter legs at the top.

Roof ridge device:

Method without using a support bar (see fig.).

A method using a rafter bar. The bar is needed for big roofs. In the future, it can become a support for the rack.

The method of laying on the beam.

More modern variety manufacturing a ridge knot can be considered the method shown in the photo.

Cutting method.

After the truss system is installed, we make a major fixing of all structural elements.

5. Mounting the roof sheathing

The crate is mounted in any case, and is designed for more convenient movement along the roof during work, as well as for fixing roofing material.

The step of the lathing depends on the type of roofing material, for example:

under the metal tile - 350 mm (the distance between the two lower boards of the crate should be 300 mm).
under a professional flooring and slate - 440 mm.
under soft roof we lay a continuous crate.

Rafter system of a gable roof with an attic - video:

Conclusion

As you can see, despite the seeming simplicity, the installation of a gable roof truss system contains many pitfalls. But, based on the above recommendations, you can easily build robust design with your own hands.

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About the attic and attic

Anti-shrink roof construction for chopped gables

Rafters on sliding joints

Roof on slabs - ideal for chopped gables

Roof without a single nail

"Disadvantage" of the sleg design

More about wood roofing

Warm roof for the attic according to the "Norwegian" technology

Gable roof on a log house: analysis of construction options + technological subtleties

"Tricks" of wooden housing construction

Varieties of roof angles for log cabins

Methods for attaching rafters to a log house

Mounting options for the truss system

Do-it-yourself installation and installation of rafters on a log house or bathhouse

Installing ceiling beams

Varieties of roof angles for log cabins

Rules for making a roof on males

Combination with rafters

Two slopes with layered rafters

Hanging roof device diagram

Step-by-step installation of a gable roof

Mauerlat

Rafter installation

Assembly order of the truss system

Features of the installation of the truss system of a wooden house

Video on assembling and installing a gable roof truss system

Video report on how a gable roof is made

Two types of rafter connection: rigid and sliding

How to determine the angle of the rafters

Full video report on the assembly of the truss system

Types of gable roof

The design of the gable roof truss system

The choice of material for rafters

Calculation of the truss system of a gable roof

1. Calculation of the load on the truss system

2. Calculation of the snow load on the roof

Assessment of the condition and bearing capacity of walls and foundations

Determination of the roof configuration:

5. Calculation of the pitch of the rafters

7. Calculation of the section of the rafters

Rafter cross section - table

Types of gable roof truss system

hanging rafters

Rafters

Combined

Installation of a gable roof truss system

1. Attaching the Mauerlat to the wall

How to connect the Mauerlat?

How to fix the Mauerlat?

Methods for attaching the Mauerlat to the wall and rafters

2. Production of roof trusses or pairs

3. Installation of rafter legs

4. Installing the gable roof ridge

5. Mounting the roof sheathing

Rafter system of a gable roof with an attic - video:

Conclusion

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