Ways of warming loggias and balconies. Insulation of the inner wall of the loggia with their own hands Insulation of the ceiling

The balcony is a part of the building that needs insulation more than others, because not all residents use it only as a warehouse. Increasingly, people are beginning to equip their balconies for additional space, for example, a personal office. For these and not only reasons, it is necessary to produce competent insulation of the structure from the inside.

In this article, we will consider three methods using different materials.

Stages of balcony insulation

Insulation of the balcony from the inside is performed in the following sequence:

No. 1. Balcony insulation with polystyrene foam: sequence of work

If you chose expanded polystyrene as a heater, then the sequence of work is as follows:

No. 2. Insulation of the balcony with penoplex (video)

Penoplex is actively used in the insulation of rooms. You can fix it to the surface using bituminous mastics, mounting foam or mushroom dowels. Consider the option of mounting on mounting foam.

Foam mounting

So. Waterproofing done. Mounting foam is applied to the insulation plate around the perimeter. It's enough. After applying, wait a couple of seconds and fix the plate on the insulated surface. The next plate is laid end-to-end to the first. After two days, you can fix the plates with additional dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in the same order as described above. Do the finishing to your liking. You can sew up the insulation boards with plastic panels, they look very original.

Additionally, we fix the plates with dowels

Advice. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential items on it, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, then it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.

The process of warming the balcony is completed. As you can see, it does not represent anything complicated. If you are just planning to do this work, then our article will help you. If you have already done, then share your methods with readers in the comments.

No. 3. Balcony insulation with mineral wool: technology features

Warming of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed crate. A lining is attached over the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

A well-known fact is the building recommendation to carry out insulation from the outside of the building. However, in the insulation of balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to place the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, adherence to technology and the correct selection of materials so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetting of the walls, corners and ceiling inside the remote structure.

Balcony insulation with mineral wool

What materials can be used to insulate a balcony and? What finish will allow you to reliably protect the insulation from the interior space and create an aesthetic appearance of the interior walls?

In modern technologies for insulating open suspended structures (balconies), four types of material are used as internal insulation: polystyrene foam, foam plastic, penofol and mineral wool. Consider the technological features of installation and types of cotton wool insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

Types of mineral wool

Depending on the raw materials used in the production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

Mineral wool is a soft material that does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (before laying they are unwound into a track) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

Photo: mineral wool with aluminum foil

Important! During installation, the foil should be located on the side of the room. The internal heat of the room will be reflected from the foil surface back into the living space.

The thickness of the mineral wool layer determines the quality of insulation and varies in size from 20 to 200 mm.

Mineral wool installation technology

Any type of mineral wool is mounted under the frame, located between the outer wall (ceiling, roof) and the frame supports. Wooden sticks or metal profiles can be used as supports, depending on which cladding will be used in the future.

Lathing from metal profiles

When using lining for finishing wall cladding, the frame-lathing is constructed of wood. Wooden sticks with a cross section of 150 - 250 cm 2 are installed, while you can save a little the interior space of the balcony by installing sticks of a rectangular rather than square section (30 × 50 cm 2, 30 × 70 cm 2).

Wooden crate

All racks and horizontal laths of the crate are installed under the level. Fastening of vertical racks to the concrete surface of the ceiling and floor is carried out with anchor bolts. Horizontal ones are attached to the vertical supports. If the future cladding is made of plastic lining, horizontal slats are attached at three levels: knee, thigh, shoulder.

Insulation laying

Note: before installing the insulation, the walls are treated with an antifungal primer.

For internal insulation with mineral wool, it is mandatory to install a vapor barrier. By itself, the cotton material is breathable, it easily passes gaseous substances (air, steam).

Insulation must be protected from getting wet

Given that during internal insulation, the point of condensation is shifted into the insulation, it is necessary to limit the ingress of steam or air from their living quarters into the building wool. For this purpose, a vapor barrier film is laid between the mineral wool and the finish.

Interior decoration

Purpose of interior decoration:

• Close the heat insulator material from the living space.
• Create an aesthetic interior wall covering of a room or insulated loggia.

There are various materials for interior decoration of balconies (drywall, wood, plastic, plaster). With a previously constructed crate frame, the finishing is done by hanging various types of panels: plywood, MDF, lining made of wood or plastic.

Clapboard made of plastic under a tree

Finishing with clapboard is done by lining the walls with wooden (or plastic) carload panels, which have special grooves around the perimeter for ease of installation and fastening density. At the same time, plastic lining is often a cheaper imitator of a wooden coating laid on the inner walls of a balcony (or loggia). It is characterized by less strength and rigidity.

Plastic panels are easy to install

Wooden wagon panels are reliable, environmentally friendly, have sufficient rigidity for flooring. Plastic clapboard can sheathe the ceiling of the loggia, the floor is covered with wood, as for the walls - both types of wagon cover (plastic and wood) can be used here.

Finishing with wooden clapboard

After finishing, the inner surface is treated with a composition that protects the wood from moisture and from destruction.

Modern apartments are small in size, so balconies are often connected to rooms or kitchens. There is only one goal - to provide additional usable space. But in order for it to really become such, its characteristics must be in no way inferior to living quarters. Balcony needs to be properly insulated.

With vapor barrier

Knowing the laws of physics, it is not difficult to understand how to insulate a balcony with your own hands - insulation must be done from the outside. After all, only then the structure is in the zone of positive temperatures. This approach allows moisture vapor leaving the rooms to freely seep through the insulation, and then out. No condensation appears.

Peculiarities

The main advantage of the technology is that the “box” turns into a multilayer one due to insulation, and does not lose its heat-insulating qualities. This method involves the use of a special vapor barrier, which is installed in front of the insulator. A similar method is suitable for heaters with any vapor permeability - whether it is mineral wool or another popular material, you can forget about condensate.

The vapor barrier is especially effective in dry construction (option - "wall cladding"). Here, broad prospects open up in terms of building materials - instead of metal profiles or gypsum board, you can take PVC, MDF or even wood beams (a natural material with high decorative characteristics).

As a vapor barrier, ordinary foil or polyethylene film, as well as special type membranes, are used. However, the presence of a barrier does not guarantee the absence of condensate - an important condition is the correct observance of the sequence of layers.

An obvious plus of the described method of warming a standard balcony is the complete absence, as the builders say, of “wet processes”. The exception is puttying the seams, and even then when using drywall sheets. There is also a significant minus - the "balcony box" loses its ability to "breathe".

Without vapor barrier

The second balcony insulation technology eliminates the vapor barrier, but is based on insulation with materials that have very low vapor permeability. This method includes insulation with foam and other polymers.

For the successful implementation of the plan, it is necessary to take insulating materials, the thickness of which simply will not allow moisture to accumulate in large quantities. Simply put, the insulation must create normal steam resistance in order to avoid condensation. With this approach, the balcony will remain dry and warm at almost any temperature.

Polymer materials

Conventional polystyrene foam with a density of 25 kg / m3, suitable for thermal insulation, has a thickness of at least 80 mm. It is this plate that copes well with thermal protection. With extruded polystyrene foam, the situation is somewhat different than with ordinary foam - its vapor permeability is 3-10 times less.

Therefore, the material with a thickness of 30 mm is already well protected from excessive moisture. To provide thermal insulation, you need to increase the thickness to 50-60 mm. When calculating the thickness of the polymer material, climatic conditions and technical and thermal standards of the area where the work is carried out are taken into account. Therefore, the dimensions of the material can fluctuate up or down.

Working with Styrofoam

It is not difficult to understand how to properly insulate a balcony: the main thing is to learn the rule - regardless of the variety, polystyrene foam is attached to the "box" using special adhesives. As soon as the primary hardening occurs, for greater reliability, the insulation boards are fastened with dowels.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene and subsequent plastering of the surface.

After gluing and dowels, it is the turn of a protective reinforced layer of the same glue:

• the surface of expanded polystyrene is cleaned with a coarse-grained sandpaper, 2-3 mm thick;
• then the glue itself is applied, after which a fiberglass mesh resistant to various alkalis is embedded into it;
• a second layer of glue is applied. Thus, the fiberglass mesh is exactly in the middle between the two adhesive layers.

If the mesh is applied to the surface of the insulating material and simply smeared with glue, it does not perform a reinforcing function. When the reinforced layer hardens, it makes sense to apply putty.

Finishing is done according to the taste of the user: plaster, wallpaper, paneling.

Behind the incomprehensible name is one of the types of extruded polystyrene foam. It differs from polystyrene in greater flexibility, resistance to pressure and moisture. The thickness of the material depends on the type of balcony or loggia - so, if the latter is combined, then 4-6 cm is enough. Uncombined loggias are insulated with plates, the thickness of which varies between 2-4 cm.

After gluing the insulation, there is either drywall, which is moisture resistant, or sheets of gypsum-fiber type. When arranging a floor screed based on sand and cement, they must cover the surface.

A foil-type polyethylene film 3 mm thick is used as a vapor barrier. As for the creation of a waterproofing layer, it is done only when the need arises.

Mounting elements

Let's imagine step-by-step instructions for warming a balcony. At the beginning of work, blocks of window construction are installed, after which the seams are sealed. To do this, use a special mounting foam. Insulating materials are attached to the surfaces with dowels. These areas include side or facade walls, ceiling, floor.

Joints and vapor barrier

Any joints between structures should be repaired with toluene-free mounting foam. It is enough to seal the joints between the insulation plates with ordinary adhesive tape. Further, the insulation of the balcony with foam plastic includes the creation of a vapor barrier layer.

Steam insulation made of polyethylene or film is glued to the insulation. Steam insulation must be installed end-to-end. The resulting hole is sealed with metal adhesive tape. As a result, the “Thermos Effect” is obtained. The next step is the arrangement of the floor.

Floor arrangement

The base of the floor, which is covered with foam boards, is made using a cement-sand screed 4 cm thick. It is important that they have the ability to self-level. When it is required to raise the floor, a layer of expanded clay is placed on the desired area. Thickness - 5 cm.

Between the screed and the wall, it is necessary to leave a temperature gap of 1 cm. In order for the screed to be poured normally, a strip must be mounted around the perimeter of the treated area before work. Foamed polyurethane foam with a barrier thickness of 1 cm is suitable for this.

When the screed is ready, the tiles are laid on top with a special adhesive. Sand-cement screed also allows you to equip a system of underfloor heating. Instead of tiles, you can use wooden logs - they are mounted longitudinally, after which they are fixed with mounting foam. From above, a continuous flooring of sheet pile boards is superimposed.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Balcony insulation with extruded polystyrene foam will require the creation of a crate for the parapet, ceiling and walls. For such purposes, a wood beam is ideal. The fastening of the crate is carried out with self-tapping screws or dowels. Wood beams are best attached directly to the concrete surface.

The final work is the finishing, created on the crate. Often it is created from plastic panels, 25 cm wide. Plasterboard is also suitable instead of plastic.

polyurethane foam

Although PPU balcony insulation is more expensive than foam plastic, it is more efficient and faster: the process boils down to the fact that a specially trained master with certain equipment leaves the site and processes the necessary surface.

The material in contact with the same wall instantly foams, forming a durable layer. Spraying polyurethane foam does not require additional work, except for finishing and giving the room aesthetics. Self-insulation of a balcony with polyurethane foam is impossible, it will require spending on professional services, but at the same time it has a number of advantages.

Coating Benefits

For example, when using conventional materials, it is necessary to create a waterproofing and a vapor barrier. Insulation of the PPU balcony does not require this: one material is used. As a result of spraying, a homogeneous seamless surface is formed without “cold bridges”.

It also saves usable space. For example, a layer of polyurethane foam 5 cm thick replaces 15 cm of mineral wool or 8.5 cm of polystyrene. For polyurethane foam, there is practically no need to additionally prepare the surface, it is resistant to microorganisms that can harm the insulation system, to fire and temperature extremes.

Finally, if the user does not know how to insulate the balcony with their own hands so that it is not negatively affected by various alkalis, acids, solvents and oil products, then spraying PPU is the best way out.

Penofol

Penofol insulation is different in that this material consists of several layers. One of them is polyethylene foam, the second is foil made of aluminum. Polyethylene has low thermal conductivity, which prevents heat leakage, and aluminum foil reflects it well.

Stages of work

First, the old finish is removed. Then the corners and cracks are sealed with tape, which ensures tightness. Next, vertical logs are installed on which penofol is attached. The side with the foil should "look" outward.

Following the penofol, a penoplex is installed, the thickness of which is 2 cm. After that, another layer of material is glued with foil inward. When the insulation of the balcony with penofol is completed - thermal insulators are installed on the parapet and side walls - the joints are sealed with tape. After that, you can go to the floor.

Heat-saving window unit

Modern window designs have high heat-shielding properties. But there are a few rules for high-quality windows in order to understand how to insulate a balcony with your own hands. Firstly, the installation depth of the profile from which the system is made should not be less than 7 cm, and the width of the influx should be at least 1.7 cm. Secondly, a normal porch between the sashes and window frames is required, otherwise dirt will get inside and be blowing. Thirdly, good windows need professional installation.

In general, the installation of a window block is one of the most important works on the thermal insulation of a balcony. If you save on professional services, then problems in operation will inevitably arise.

Until recently, the balconies of city apartments served as a kind of storerooms - people kept conservation and various things there. What is there, on the balconies they carried out any unnecessary rubbish that it was a pity to throw away. Today, however, these spaces are increasingly being used as additional living space. And in order to realize such an idea, you need to take care of the insulation of the balcony.

If you insulate the balcony, you will not only be able to expand the living space of the apartment relatively cheaply, but also significantly reduce the heat loss of housing. The fact is that it is through the balconies that most of the heat leaves. But in order for everything to be done efficiently, you need to know where to start. With a well-designed scheme, it will be much easier to turn a cold balcony into a small, but almost full-fledged room.

So, first sketch out a rough work plan - it will include:

Important information! The balcony can be insulated both from the inside and outside. But in view of the fact that you will do the work on your own, that is, without the help of specialists, it is better to resort to internal insulation.

Stage number 1. Choosing a heater

There are a lot of heat-insulating materials on the modern construction market, but it is more suitable for a balcony:

As for foam plastic and XPS, the laying of these materials is carried out using almost the same technology (the only exception is the form of adhesion - it is better for XPS due to the use of grooves).

It is better not to use mineral wool for a balcony - the installation procedure will be more laborious, and the condensate that inevitably forms on the balcony is undesirable for this material. Expanded clay, for obvious reasons, can only be used for floor insulation (insulation technology will be described in detail below).

And if we add to all of the above the fact that the balcony should in no case be overloaded, then it becomes obvious: the most suitable option is polystyrene foam 4-5 cm thick, which is cheaper than polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

Stage number 2. We carry out glazing

If your balcony is already glazed, you can skip this step. The glazing procedure itself largely depends on the parapet installed on the balcony. If we are talking about an iron crate, then you must build it up using foam blocks or ceramic bricks. It is important that the wall thickness as a result exceeds the mark of 10 cm. And if you have a reinforced concrete parapet, you can immediately start installing windows.

Today, many (especially admirers of environmentally friendly building materials) prefer double-glazed windows with wooden frames. It is worth remembering that such structures must be treated with an antiseptic and regularly painted. You can learn about the installation of double-glazed windows with wooden frames from the video below.

Video - How to install a wooden window with double-glazed windows

However, most consumers still buy PVC windows. When buying, choose a special plastic profile, characterized by increased rigidity and strength characteristics. In addition, the profile must have good thermal insulation performance.

Also, plastic windows should have:

• 5-chamber profile;
• 2-chamber (if you live in the middle lane) or 3-chamber (if in a more severe climate) double-glazed window;
• reinforced reinforcement.

After installing the PVC structure ordered according to the dimensions of the balcony (specialists should do the work), you can proceed directly to the insulation.

Stage number 3. We warm the floor

Consider how to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands using foam (although the technology described below is also suitable for polystyrene foam).

Table. Floor insulation on the balcony

Important information! There is another way to insulate the floor on the balcony with foam: foam sheets are attached to the leveled and cleaned surface, and a thin screed is poured on top from a previously prepared dry mix solution. Ceramic tiles can be used as a finishing coating here.

Alternative option. We use expanded clay

As noted earlier, the floor on the balcony can also be insulated with expanded clay. This material is also inexpensive, and its installation is not difficult. Let's get acquainted with the algorithm of actions.

Step #1. First, lay a waterproofing film on the floor with a 10 cm exit to the walls.

Step #2. Arrange beacons around the perimeter in increments of about 25 cm, while being careful not to lean them too much against the walls.

Step #3. Fill the floor with a layer of expanded clay 15 cm thick, evenly distribute the material over the surface.

Step number 4. Moisten expanded clay with cement "milk" (this is an aqueous solution of cement).

Step number 5. Pour expanded clay with a layer of concrete or self-leveling mixture. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the structure of the insulator.

Step number 6. Wait for the screed to dry completely. After that, you can start laying the finish coat.

Stage number 4. We insulate the walls

The technology here is almost the same as for floor insulation. Do the following.

Step #1. Mark the future location of the rails on the walls (as for the floor).

Step #2. Attach the slats according to the given markup.

Step #3. Apply mounting foam to the surface with wave-like movements. At the same stage, holes for dowels should be drilled.

Step #4. Attach the styrofoam sheets using plastic mushroom dowels.

Step #5. Blow out all the cracks formed with mounting foam, then glue with mounting tape.

Step #6. Lay a waterproofing layer on top - for example, penofol, which at the same time will also serve as thermal insulation.

Step #7. Seal the seams at the joints with foil tape.

Step number 8. Mount the counter-lattice on top of the foam foam and install the finishing material.

Stage number 5. We insulate the ceiling

This procedure is also performed using a similar technology, but there are still some differences.

1. First, mark up where the hangers for attaching the rails will be installed.
2. Install the suspensions themselves, necessary for fixing the guides (use a galvanized profile or timber as the latter).

   

   

3. Cut small holes in the insulator (styrofoam or XPS) in appropriate places for hangers.

   

   

4. Next, fix the insulation boards using the same mounting foam.

   

If the insulation weighs too much, then you can use dowels for fastening. Fill the cracks with foam. Otherwise, there are no significant differences.

Finishing Features

In most cases, balconies are lined with clapboard or profile from the inside, but drywall is also used, followed by wallpapering. PVC panels are also used for cladding. As for the exterior decoration, it is better to entrust it to professionals, especially if your apartment is located higher than on the first floor.

Important information! It is forbidden to conduct central heating there, so if additional heating is required, you can lay a film "warm floor" under the linoleum.

Even on the balcony you can install a socket to which an electric heater will be connected. The described room is small, so heating will take a minimum of time. We also note that a double-glazed window weighs quite a lot, so the rest of the materials (including the insulator itself) should be with a minimum weight. By the way, this is another reason why it is better to give preference to XPS or foam boards.

Video - Instructions for warming the balcony

Now you know about the strengths and weaknesses of materials suitable for insulating a balcony, as well as about the technologies for laying foam and expanded clay. So it's time to get straight to work! Moreover, there is nothing complicated here if you are armed with step-by-step instructions and all the necessary materials. If you do everything right, then turn the balcony into a full-fledged living room with all the ensuing benefits.

Square meters are not enough for many residents of high-rise buildings. We try to make the most of every corner of the apartment, including balconies and loggias. Some old-fashioned clog the balcony space with unnecessary things, but most residents prefer a more practical and aesthetic solution to this issue. Modern technologies and building materials make it possible to convert a balcony into an office, a place to relax, a small gym, a winter garden. However, the simplest option for obtaining an additional room for year-round use - installing a double-glazed window and installing a heating system - is the least effective, since the heat will simply go outside.

The first stage of balcony insulation - glazing

Before choosing the type of glazing for a balcony, it is necessary to determine the type of structure on which they will be installed. If the balcony parapet is a reinforced concrete slab, then in this case additional work will not be required. If the balcony is fenced with metal bars, then an additional parapet will be required. It is made of lightweight ceramic bricks or foam blocks 100 mm wide.

• The advantages of brickwork are its strength and beautiful appearance, which does not require external cladding.
• The use of foam blocks allows you to get a design of less weight and low thermal conductivity. The downside of this material is its susceptibility to moisture, which requires an external finishing layer, for which corrugated galvanized steel or plastic siding is used.

Masonry work is also necessary in cases where the wall with the adjacent balcony is made of asbestos-cement slab or the reinforcement of the reinforced concrete parapet of the balcony is not strong enough. If the balcony design is too old, then it is impossible to do without professional advice on this issue.

Glazing types:

• Previously, the most popular glazing method was the use of wooden frames. However, this material quickly rots and requires constant care. A modern option is wooden frames with double-glazed windows. In such structures, the wood is processed using special technologies, and the fittings are similar to those used for variants made of polymeric materials.
• The use of PVC profile, in the common people - plastic windows - the most common way of glazing balconies. The cost of this option largely depends on the manufacturer of the plastic structure, and, consequently, on its quality.
• In appearance, the aluminum profile differs little from the plastic one. If desired, you can choose a profile painted not only in white, but also in any other, including “wood-like”. The aluminum profile is thinner than the plastic one, and, therefore, it transmits a little more light, weighs less, is durable, and has good sound insulation.

For glazing balconies, "cold" and "warm" aluminum profiles are used. The first option is used in cases where the balcony needs to be protected only from atmospheric influences. "Warm" aluminum implies the use of double-glazed windows and the presence of a thermal bridge - a heat-insulating insert inside the profile. This is a lightweight, durable, efficient, but rather expensive design.

The device of massive high-quality thermal insulation of the balcony

If you live in a region with a cold climate, then you need to insulate all balcony structures: the floor, parapet, ceiling and all walls, including those adjacent to the main room.

When choosing a material for thermal insulation of a balcony, you should know that the results of room insulation will be the higher, the lower the thermal conductivity of the material and the greater its thickness. Modern materials for insulation have approximately the same thermal conductivity, which is in the range of 0.03-0.04 W / (m * s).

With proper insulation of the balcony, one of the main tasks is the right choice of insulation. This will affect the comfort of the insulated room at any time of the year. In winter, insulation should protect from cold, in summer - from heat.

It must also be remembered that the insulation has soundproofing properties. Considering the parameters of various heat-insulating materials and studying their properties, you can create an excellent microclimate for your balcony.

Thermal insulation materials for balcony insulation

On the modern market of building materials there is a wide range of heaters with excellent heat-insulating characteristics, low hygroscopicity and high strength. These include the following thermal insulation materials:

• Extruded polystyrene foam - Fibran ECO, Technoplex, Penoplex, URSA XPS, STYROFOAM. Such plates can be smooth, or they can be made with protrusions and grooves, forming a tongue-and-groove system, which greatly simplifies installation.
• Styrofoam types PSB-S35 and PSB-S50 are quite widespread due to their low cost, but, unlike expanded polystyrene, they are less durable and have more modest thermal insulation characteristics.
• A popular material for insulating balconies is mineral wool of the brands Isover, Knauf, Rockwool.
• Foil foamed polyethylene 3-10 mm thick serves as an additional heat-insulating and vapor barrier layer. Marks of this material: Penofol, Isolon, Isoflex, Energoflex. The metallized layer is placed inside the room.

In these photos you can see what the balconies look like, in which the walls, floor and ceiling were insulated from the inside with the most popular materials:

How to independently insulate a balcony with extruded polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene used for insulating balconies is in most cases produced in slabs 600x1200 mm in size, 20-100 mm thick and, being one of the types of foam, looks very similar to it. Expanded polystyrene (for example, Penoplex) makes it easy to insulate the balcony with your own hands, and then you can read the instructions on how to do this.

If it is planned to combine a balcony with a common room, then the expanded polystyrene should have a thickness of 40-80 mm, for lightweight options, a material with a thickness of 20-40 mm is sufficient.

Balcony insulation procedure:

• Before insulating the floor of the balcony, it is necessary to level it, especially if there are large irregularities or depressions.
• All cracks left after glazing are sealed with mounting foam or other sealants.
• All internal surfaces of the balcony are waterproofed. For these purposes, roofing material is used, which is overlapped, glued to the base, the joints are glued using a gas burner. Liquid Penetron, coating and painting compositions can be used as waterproofing materials.

Expanded polystyrene plates can be fixed in two ways: with glue and with dowels.

• The adhesive must be chosen in such a way that it is compatible with expanded polystyrene, since some of its types can corrode this polymer material. For these purposes, use: Kreps PPS, Ceresit CT 85, Emfikol 225, Ezolemfi 3104/11. The glue is applied along the perimeter of the slab with a notched trowel with a strip of 50 mm with a slight indent from the edge so that it does not squeeze out onto the joints of the slabs. Another 5-10 glue dots are applied to the remaining area.
• For the second method of fastening, a special dowel with a large cap is used, it is often called a "mushroom". The size of the dowel is determined by its type, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer and the material of the wall.

If sheets of drywall, plastic or other material will be used as a finish, you can limit yourself to fixing the insulation with dowels. In the case of further plastering of the surface, as a rule, a combination of the adhesive method and the dowel fastening method is used. First, an adhesive layer is applied to the plate, the insulation is pressed against the wall, holes of the required diameter are drilled with a drill, into which dowels are inserted and fixed with screws.

Cut sheets of expanded polystyrene with a hacksaw or a sharp knife, stack in a checkerboard pattern. The joints between the wall and the insulation are treated with mounting foam, for the exact dosage of which it is advisable to purchase a special gun.

To insulate the balcony with polystyrene foam, a foam is chosen that does not contain toluene, which has a destructive effect on this material. Usually it contains winter modifications of mounting foam, so you should choose the summer version. In this regard, it is impossible to carry out work on the insulation of the balcony in winter.

In a similar way, with the sealing of all seams with polystyrene foam, the walls and ceiling are insulated.

After completion of work, a foil foamed polyethylene is fixed on top of the expanded polystyrene plates using polyurethane glue, which is laid "end-to-end". The joints are glued with metallic tape. Sheets are joined on the walls, stepping back from the corners for a certain distance.

On this video you can see how to carry out the steps to insulate the balcony with polystyrene foam (Penoplex):

The easiest way to insulate the door to the balcony is to upholster it from the outside with foam rubber and leatherette.

Balcony finishing

Finishing the balcony also starts from the floor. Wood is an excellent insulating material. Logs made of softwood timber with a section of 50x50 mm in increments of 500 mm are installed on the insulation. They are nailed with tongue-and-groove boards 30-50 mm thick.

For walls, you can use wooden lining or moisture-resistant drywall. Drywall on top can be painted, wallpapered, upholstered with high-quality PVC panels.

The finish is fixed with wooden bars, not a metal profile, which serves as an additional measure to prevent condensation.

It is not recommended to carry out the crate on the wall, and then insert polystyrene foam plates into it. In this case, the tree will play the role of "cold bridges" and will contribute to the escape of heat from the room. If the crate is nailed over the insulation layer, then the space between it and the finish will provide additional thermal insulation.

This method of balcony insulation is effective, but quite expensive and leads to a noticeable decrease in the balcony space.

Balcony thermal insulation: an economical option

A more inexpensive way to insulate a balcony is the second option. All the initial steps of the thermal insulation of the balcony remain the same: glazing, sealing cracks after glazing, leveling the floor, waterproofing internal surfaces. As a heater, affordable materials are used: mineral wool, polystyrene, foamed polyethylene.

Consider the procedure for insulating a balcony with mineral wool:

• The wooden crate is attached to the base over the waterproofing layer. The bars have the same thickness as the thermal insulation material.
• Mineral wool is laid in a wooden frame. Since this is a material subject to shrinkage, mineral wool sheets must be cut slightly larger than the frame cavities.
• A vapor barrier layer is shot on top of the insulation to the bars with the help of a construction stapler.
• A topcoat of lining or drywall sheets is nailed on top.

This method of insulation has a number of disadvantages: there is a high risk of the appearance of "cold bridges", the bars must be treated with special compounds to protect against the resulting condensate, the elasticity of the mineral wool reduces the effectiveness of foaming the seams. This method is most suitable for balconies that cannot bear a large load.

So, how and what is the best way to insulate a balcony? The "golden mean" is the first option using materials of various thicknesses. The thickest material is placed on the parapet, the thinner insulation is placed on the walls adjacent to the neighboring loggias, and the insulation of the wall adjacent to the main premises is abandoned.

Balcony insulation cost

If you are not ready to insulate the balcony yourself even after our article, contact the experts. The table lists the approximate prices for work on the insulation of balconies:

Most of us do not attach importance to the repair of a balcony or loggia. Perhaps this is due to the small size of the space, and sometimes just out of habit. However, it is these small utility rooms of an apartment that can be completely different, and it is worth considering seriously about their insulation.

What you need to know about balcony insulation

Balcony repair is closely related to the idea of ​​​​insulation, since the enclosing outer walls of it are thinner than the walls of the house. For most regions of Russia, thermal calculations determine the need for thermal insulation materials, the variety of which is replenished with more and more new and technologically advanced samples on the construction market.

Insulation of the balcony is a step towards obtaining an additional comfortable room in the apartment

For proper or sufficient insulation of a balcony, loggia, you must consider:

• technical characteristics of heat-insulating materials;
• reliable fastening of thermal insulation;
• protection of thermal insulation from the external environment.

Since the repair of a balcony or loggia is a complex event, insulation must be calculated in advance by selecting all the necessary materials. The methods of their installation for different types of balconies and loggias differ from each other.

What is the insulation

The method of insulation also depends on the position of the insulating material, of which there are two main types: external and internal.

External insulation is used in the presence of a solid base for the installation of insulation. This method is typical for panel, monolithic houses, the balconies of which have reinforced concrete foundations. You can also insulate the loggia, the under-railing part of which is lined with brickwork. The method of external insulation of enclosing structures is considered the best, since the "dew point", or the formation of condensate, is located outside the walls of the balcony. The main disadvantage: the high cost of work. Since all work is carried out outside the balcony, loggia, this requires the participation of industrial climbers.

Internal insulation is made by fixing the insulation material from the inside of the balcony or loggia. The method is not complicated, it is quite possible to do it yourself. Usually it is produced immediately after the balcony or loggia is glazed with new frames. The effect of such insulation is somewhat lower, but it will also cost much less. In addition, by fixing heat-insulating materials, you can immediately carry out all the necessary communications, as well as level the surfaces of walls, ceilings and floors.

Insulation of a frame balcony can be attributed to an intermediate method, since the heat-insulating material in this case is fixed in the frame cells between the outer and inner skins.

Thermal insulation materials - we select wisely

The building materials market is replete with a variety of heaters, the advertising of which claims that each of them is the best. How not to get confused in this variety, and what is the best way to insulate a balcony?

The main thermal insulation materials that you should pay attention to are the following:

• extruded polystyrene foam;
• mineral wool.

Styrofoam

A class of polymeric materials with gas-filled granules, 2-5 mm in diameter, widely used for packaging various products, and in insulation. Sintered during steaming, the granules form a single structure, the strength of the relationships of which determines the density of the material.

Styrofoam is a light and affordable material for insulating a balcony

The main advantages of foam:

1. Lightness - the material has an extremely low weight (15-35kg g / m3), it is easy to fasten, process with a hacksaw or a paint knife.
2. Affordable price.
3. Low thermal conductivity and water absorption - foam plastics occupy one of the leading positions in terms of thermal insulation characteristics, which allows them to be used everywhere in construction.
4. High soundproof characteristics (over 53 dB).

Disadvantages: high flammability class, destruction by ultraviolet radiation, chemical vapors of acetone, benzene, toxicity during combustion dangerous to humans.

Styrofoam

This is a type of foam, the most common on the building materials market, obtained from styrene copolymers. By steaming the feedstock in the finished form, the gas-filled granules are firmly sintered together, forming a solid form, which is then cut into plates of various thicknesses, usually 20-100 mm.

The density of expanded polystyrene for construction work usually varies between 15-50kg/m3. With its positive characteristics of low thermal conductivity and water absorption, this material, like most in its group, has a low flexural strength - an average of 0.25 MPa. It also has a high flammability class - G3-G4.

Expanded polystyrene is a more advanced version of polystyrene.

In construction, polystyrene chips are also used, which is a porous filler in polystyrene concrete. The resulting material belongs to the class of lightweight concrete, its density is 150-600 kg/m3, thermal conductivity is 0.055-0.145 W/(m*K). At the same time, a screed made of such material can withstand a sufficient load to be used for surface screeds in the ceilings of houses, attics, balconies and loggias. Polystyrene concrete is non-toxic, flammability class - G1 (low combustible).

Extruded polystyrene foam

If you do not know how to insulate a balcony, this material is without a doubt one of the best! Its main advantage is an extremely dense cellular structure, consisting of granules about 0.1-0.2 mm in size. The high tensile strength in static bending of this material makes it almost universal in the insulation of any possible surfaces. The water absorption of XPS is 10 times less than that of expanded polystyrene - only 0.2-0.4%! The disadvantages include low vapor permeability and a high flammability class G3-G4.

Penoplex - a modern and easy-to-install insulation

mineral wool

A traditional material whose ancestor (glass wool) was widely used in the construction of the last century. Stone mineral wool is also popular today in the insulation of roofs, peaks, ceilings, partitions, etc. Its main advantage is resistance to high temperatures and chemicals.

The thermal conductivity is close to some foams, but due to the fibrous structure, its moisture absorption and vapor permeability are quite high. During installation, it must be protected with moisture and vapor barrier membranes. On the market there are sheet and roll samples of mineral wool with an average density of 60-120 kg / m3.

Mineral wool is an inexpensive, fire-resistant material

Installation of thermal insulation and its subsequent finishing

Thermal insulation is fixed in various ways. The system of facade and internal insulation here have some differences.

Styrofoam, polystyrene or XPS boards are fixed with external insulation using cement-polymer or polyurethane adhesive. For greater confidence in the installation, and in order to avoid cracks and chips of thermal insulation plates, they are fixed on plastic dowel-nails. High-density mineral wool is also mounted. At the next stage, the finished solid surface of the insulation is reinforced. Fiberglass mesh for outdoor work and moisture-resistant tile adhesive based on cement and polymers are used as reinforcing materials. Finally, a protective layer of weatherproof paint or plaster is applied. Sometimes the surface is decorated with wild stone or its imitation.

For internal insulation systems with a solid base of reinforced concrete or masonry, the same methods and materials for fixing are used. In some cases, for the installation of drywall or OSB boards, a frame of galvanized profiles or wooden slats, beams is attached to the base. A pre-fitted insulation is tightly inserted into its cells, covering it with a vapor barrier membrane. Mineral wool sheets of low density are fixed with tape and a stapler. Only after that the cladding is mounted.

When inserting small gaps into the cells of the frame of a foam or polystyrene plate, small gaps will be inevitable. They must be sealed to avoid cold bridges and freezing of the insulation. This is easy to do with polyurethane foam, cutting off the excess after drying.

For intermediate, when the enclosing structures of the walls are a metal or wooden frame, slabs of any kind of foam are inserted into its cells and fixed with polyurethane foam. In the case of using mineral wool boards, rolled insulation as a heater, it will need to be protected on both sides with vapor barrier membranes, and only then the sheathing should be fixed to the frame.

The following materials are widely used for floor insulation:

• expanded clay concrete;
• polystyrene concrete.

The advantage of these bulk heat insulators is that they allow, with relatively little effort and inexpensively, to raise the level of the screed by 10-20 cm or more, while not particularly weighing down the weight of the balcony structure. Surface preparation for their use is practically not required. To be sure, you can provide reliable moisture insulation using bituminous mastics or plastic wrap. Disadvantage: To prepare the correct proportion of the content of cement and other fillers, as well as pouring concrete on site, professional skills and tools are required.

Floors based on a frame made of wooden logs are much easier to insulate. A heat insulator - mineral wool, polystyrene or expanded clay - is placed in the hollow space between the lags and covered with a moisture-resistant lining, for example, OSB boards.

Conclusion

Comparison of the main characteristics of thermal insulation materials will help to make the right choice. The following table allows you to do this in full.

Before insulating a balcony and starting repairs, it is worth consulting with specialists and choosing the most optimal way to make a balcony or a loggia of your dreams!