A small house made of timber with their own hands. Rules for laying the lower crown

Land owners are increasingly making their choice in favor of building houses from timber. An additional advantage of this solution is that, with a strong desire, each owner can build a house from a bar with his own hands. Having built such a house with your own hands, you get a high-quality, durable, reliable and comfortable home. Directly, the technology for the construction of such buildings is extremely simple and understandable. Of the skills for work, you only need experience in handling a gasoline or electric saw.

The log house looks very nice. But in order for it to be reliable, at the construction stage, the timber must be processed with special means.

What kind of wood can be used to build a house from a bar?

Before you start building a house from a bar with your own hands, you need to choose the highest quality and suitable material for work.

The main qualities of wood are strength and density. In some breeds, these indicators reach the level of most metals, therefore, rather high requirements are imposed on houses made of timber with their own hands. The walls of the building must be durable and strong. In addition, they must provide good heat and sound insulation. But the tree also has a number of disadvantages. The main ones are low fire resistance and a tendency to sedimentary deformation, which is especially pronounced during the first few years after construction is completed.

Coniferous woods are the best choice for the construction of a house from a bar. Material is different long term service and resistance to decay, it does not crack and does not exert a significant load on the foundation. It is important to remember that not only competent construction technology, but also the material chosen according to all the rules allows you to build good house from a bar with their own hands. So the wood should be as durable and dense as possible.

Solid or profiled timber?

The beam is profiled and solid. To build a house, you can use both the first and second options. To choose a specific type of material, consider the main advantages and disadvantages of each.

A profiled bar for building a house provides for a profile. It may have spikes and crown grooves. Such connections are installed along the entire length of the material, after which the surface is subjected to grinding. The timber for building a house is delivered ready-made. The owner can only assemble the building from the received elements. Among the advantages of houses built from profiled timber, we can distinguish:

1. High resistance to deformation.
2. Relatively low construction costs.
3. Low complexity of construction work.

The material has an exact shape that allows you to perform all construction activities in the shortest possible time and with the highest quality. Houses made of such material have a more interesting appearance and high thermal insulation characteristics.

The advantages of profiled timber include flat surface walls. They do not even need to be additionally sheathed, because. they look so great. The walls of this material are protected from decay, because. they will not collect melt and rain water. The profile is calculated so that precipitation does not fall into the interventional seams.

After shrinkage of a house built from profiled timber, there will be no need to waste time and effort on caulking. This material provides excellent wind protection and high thermal insulation, because. the crowns have connections of sufficient density for this.

house from solid timber has a low level of thermal insulation.

But profiled timber has its drawbacks. Firstly, it does not tolerate negative atmospheric influences very well. Secondly, the material supports combustion. In order to increase the bio- and fire-retardant properties, wood must be treated special impregnations.

The natural humidity of the material leads to the fact that cracks appear on the timber during the warm season. Therefore, it is best to immediately look for such material, the moisture content of which is reduced to at least 20% by chamber drying. The thickness of the walls of a house made of profiled timber will not be enough for comfortable use. You will have to perform additional external insulation. After construction is completed, it will not be possible to add on or change the layout.

Explore the features of a solid bar. Despite the fact that it does not have the most presentable appearance, the material is still quite widely used in construction. The main advantage is relatively low cost. When preparing wood, its natural moisture is preserved, which eliminates the need for additional measures and reduces the duration of the preparatory stage.

One-piece timber can be bought at any specialized market. You can choose exactly what you need without any problems. From the moment of ordering to delivery to the construction site, on average, it takes a week. The simplicity and speed of production of the material made it possible to reduce the time so much. Another big advantage of using solid timber for building a house is the absence of the need for special equipment.

But there are also disadvantages. These include:

1. Higher finishing costs. To obtain a beautiful and complete appearance of the building, it must be sheathed with siding or clapboard.
2. When choosing a bar, you need to be extremely careful, because. unscrupulous sellers offer bad timber.
3. Fungus may begin to develop on the material. The reason lies in natural humidity and failure to undergo special drying. Of course, you can treat the timber with special impregnations to destroy and prevent the return of the fungus, but this will require additional money and time.
4. Interventsovy seams are very strongly blown. A house made of solid timber is characterized by a lower level of thermal insulation.
5. After shrinkage, the wood cracks. To prevent such damage, the walls have to be sheathed on both sides.

Preparation of materials, tools and project

After you decide on suitable view timber, proceed to the purchase of materials, the collection of tools and drafting. If you wish, you can purchase the material in a ready-made form. All bars will be cut to your size. The material will already have grooves, and you will only have to lay out the building like a designer.

If you want to save material, you can prepare it yourself. If you choose this method, pay attention to the following factors:

1. Wood must be healthy.
2. Through and large cracks are strictly unacceptable.
3. The wood must not show signs of beetle damage.
4. Before use, the material must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

The work of building a house from a bar will require the use of a whole set of tools, namely:

1. Petrol saw. Instead, an electric one will do.
2. Electric drills.
3. level.
4. Measuring tape measure.
5. Hammer.
6. Axe.
7. Nails, screws, jute.
8. Electric screwdriver.
9. Perforator.

After preparing the materials and tools, proceed to the drafting of a house from a bar. In the process of this, you need to accurately calculate all the necessary calculations. The project can be compiled independently, there is nothing complicated about it. If you wish, you can contact a specialized construction company. The specialist of the company will make the project in compliance with all the rules, taking into account seismic resistance and other important factors.

What should be the foundation of a log house?

The device of the strip foundation.

Having prepared or received a custom project, proceed to the arrangement of the foundation. A house made of timber should be built on the basis of sufficient reliability and strength.

When choosing the type of foundation, consider such parameters as:

1. The main characteristics of the soil on the site.
2. Estimated load on the foundation.
3. Design features.

A log house can be built on concrete or wooden base. Most often flooded concrete foundation, laid out on it brick plinth, and already on top of this structure, the construction of walls from a bar begins. If you want to have full wooden structure, you can make the base out of wood.

A log house can be built on:

1. Buried foundation.
2. Shallow base.
3. Belt type support.
4. Columnar base.

In the vast majority of cases, shallow-depth or strip foundation. A laying depth of about 50-70 cm will be enough.

Step by step instructions for building walls

After arranging the foundation, proceed to laying the timber. The most important thing is to decide on the optimal assembly technology. The walls of the timber are laid out in rows. Each new layer is laid on top of the previous one until a wall of the required height is obtained.

The bars have special grooves, which ensure a snug fit of the logs to each other. The grooves are insulated with special thermal insulation. In order to increase the strength of the walls, it is imperative to use spikes to connect the beams.

A simplified version involves the use of raw pine timber. The bars themselves weigh quite a bit, so you don’t even have to call in special lifting equipment for construction.

During self erection lumber walls, it is important to take into account a number of basic requirements. First, all seams must be sealed. This will prevent the wind blowing through the walls. Secondly, the walls themselves are treated with special impregnations to increase fire resistance and strength.

Roof, floor and finishes

Quite often, developers try to save money on building a house from a bar. And they do it with the help of a roof, using some cheap materials, for example, ondulin. But saving on material when constructing a roof is categorically not recommended. This part of the house may variety of options performance, it all depends on the truss and roofing systems. Each site is recommended to equip with the use of boards different size. For example, rafters are assembled from boards 150x40 mm, and material 100x40 mm is taken for the installation of braces and racks.

When arranging the floor and choosing the floor covering, they are also guided mainly by personal preferences. The only obligatory moment is the waterproofing of the ceiling and floor. In particular, you need to carefully approach the issue of waterproofing basements and basements. The floor is waterproofed before screeding or leveling. In a wooden house you can use:

1. Roll waterproofing.
2. Coating materials.
3. Penetrating moisture protection.
4. Filling compositions.

Plinths and basements are waterproofed without any problems with their own hands. There will be no difficulties when processing the floors of other parts of the house. Choose the most suitable material for you and proceed with its installation in accordance with the technology.

The floor is one of the main components of the interior of the home. Aesthetics directly depends on its device. interior design. Therefore, the choice of coverage also needs to be approached with knowledge of the matter. Present on the market today a large assortment floor coverings:

1. Wood based finishes. This category includes parquet boards and parquet.
2. Cork coating.
3. Laminated panels.
4. Linoleum.
5. Floor tiles.
6. Carpets of various types.

Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages.

For a wooden floor, wood-based coatings are best suited: parquet and laminate are the best option, such material is simple and easy to install.

As for more modern materials, then you will not have any problems with their installation. Focus on your taste preferences and affordable budget.

Finishing the installation work interior doors, partitions and window frames. The subfloor is laid, then the selected insulation, the finishing component of the floor and top coat. The ceiling is being cut off. At this stage, it is necessary to equip the water supply, heating, sewerage and energy supply systems.

Exterior decoration is selected by the owner independently. If desired, the house can be left without any exterior finish if the appearance and quality of the source material allows it. If you want to get a different look, you can paint the house, sheathe it with siding, clapboard, or finish it with other available materials.

It is in this sequence that the construction of a house from a bar is carried out. Following the technology, you can get a reliable, comfortable and durable building without involving third-party specialists. Successful work!

Of course, it is better to build right now than to redo it later. Well, and if you still do improvements, then do it thoughtfully so as not to turn the reconstruction into an endless process.

We first evaluate any building by its appearance. And after all, as often happens (this is especially true for country houses of old construction): the structure seems to be solid, but it looks unsightly. So what - to break everything and build again? Or still try to do something less expensive? For example, apply techniques that allow you to create an optical effect of changing the size of an object in width and height, combining this with a cosmetic finish on the facade and minor design improvements ( rice. one).

Rice. 1. A little refinement at home allows you to change the perception of the size of the object in width and height.

This can be done by different orientation of the architectural elements of the structure in the vertical and horizontal directions. Suppose we have to “stretch” the roof in width, and “raise” the frame up. To do this, we will “lengthen” the existing window in both directions (at the same time it will be lighter in the attic) and install a gable tide (the protection of the facade from rain will improve). You can install a ridge ebb, which is also structurally justified. BUT attic window improve attic ventilation conditions and, to some extent, its lighting.

Thus, all these decorative innovations not only improve the appearance of the building, but also turn out to be functionally useful. The main facade of the log house, on the contrary, should be made visually higher. The simplest solution is not to board the corners, but to paint them more bright hues. The actual height of the log house can also be masked by planting trees and shrubs, as well as installing a fence of the appropriate height.
There are many ways to influence the appearance of a building in the arsenal of designers and architects. You need to select the most effective and simple.

However, our main task is to reduce construction errors to a minimum. Can this be achieved? Even with a whole statistical "bank" of errors, we will not be able to use this information effectively without integrated approach. It is necessary to systematize mistakes, and on the basis of this, develop rules that should be followed during the construction process. In other words, it is necessary to regulate the requirements for each part of the building under construction. Their implementation will prevent blunders and help you look “where you need to”. A list of such requirements can be formed not only on the basis of building codes, but also on the basis of survey results, common sense considerations, taking into account the materials and tools used.

However, requirements are only half the story. Another critical component of success is the control system. After all, country houses are often built by non-professional builders. It is for them that a systematic approach is needed, which will allow building high-quality, quickly and at no extra cost.

An example would be the construction country house from a bar - the most common and relatively inexpensive material.

Foundation

The construction of any house begins with the foundation. The most common are shallow strip reinforced concrete foundations. They are simple and technologically advanced, reliable, well protect the underground from cold, snow and wind, and are quite versatile for almost any type of soil.

AT cross section foundation consists of underground and overground parts which are poured with concrete separately. For example, when building clay soils(in the Moscow region their area is about 70%) the concrete of the base of the foundation is poured directly into the trench dug in the ground, and then the formwork panels are mounted and the basement is poured.

The arrangement of the foundation begins with its marking. Many developers at this stage "enclose the garden", believing that one cannot do without a cast-off. Of course, a cast-off is needed when erecting large construction projects. However, when it comes to a rectangle with dimensions of 6 × 9 m, can't we mark it out more in a simple way? And horizontal marks can be easily obtained using a hydraulic level without a level: after all, the area is insignificant. Cast-off is extra labor costs, additional costs of lumber, and subsequently - inconvenience and interference during the installation of formwork panels, as well as the difficulty of maneuvering concrete trucks.

Rice. 2. Marking the foundation

Consider the most simple technology strip foundation markings (Fig. 2). First, in the right place, the basic position of the main corner is determined - in relation to the road, terrain, plan, etc. A peg is hammered in this place.

Then, using a triangle, a right angle is set from this point. Now, having given the dimensions of the sides of the foundation, it is easy to determine the position of all corners. The accuracy of the work is checked by comparing the diagonals of the rectangle.

Pegs are driven in at the marked points. Then, according to the given width of the foundation tape, an internal rectangle is built and the pegs are driven in again. Also determine the position of the foundation under the veranda. Pegs are also driven in here. Thus, having scored only 12 pegs, the work on marking the foundation can be considered completed.

After installing the pegs, an incision is made and the sod is removed along the contour of the foundation. To do this, take a board with a section of 50 × 150 mm, first apply it to the outer pegs and, moving along the board, cut the sod with a shovel. Then the board is placed against the inner pegs and the turf is cut again.

Similarly, they act along the entire contour of the future structure. It remains to take out the cut turf, after which the breakdown of the foundation can be considered completely completed.

Such a simplified marking allows you to get the contour of the trench without accurate millimetric measurements, the need for which may arise in subsequent stages of construction. After that, proceed to the selection of the trench.

Some critics of strip foundations consider their main disadvantage to be a large volume. earthworks. However, this is not quite true. My colleagues and I have never used an excavator for soil sampling. This is expensive, and the trench turns out to be extremely sloppy, which requires subsequent manual refinement. In addition, the consumption of concrete increases. But for a house with dimensions of 6 × 9 m, we need to choose only about 9 m3 of soil. A team of four people will do it (along with markings and smoke breaks) in just half a day. I dare say that it is much more difficult to drill two or three dozen holes in clay for a columnar foundation, and even with broadening. When extracting soil from a trench under a strip foundation, vertical markings are simultaneously made: the depth of the trench and the height of the shields are determined. Measurements are made using stakes and a hydraulic level (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Vertical marking of the trench

At the bottom of the dug trench, a sand cushion is covered in layers of 10-15 cm and rammed. Then the reinforcement is installed and the concrete is poured.

It makes no sense to prepare concrete yourself. The concrete truck will bring and pour into the trench ready mix. However, it will be necessary to make room for equipment to drive to the trench at least in 2-3 places. If poured at one point, then the concrete will have to be pushed far with shovels, and large aggregate (crushed stone) will settle in one place. Only the liquid part of the solution will reach the remote places of the trench.

After pouring concrete into the trench, you can start preparing reinforcement and making formwork panels. In the meantime, the concrete of the base has not yet hardened, it is necessary to insert pins into it every 1-1.5 m to connect the base of the foundation with the base. Reinforcing bars ø14-16 mm and 50 cm long are buried in the base concrete by 30 cm.

For the foundation to work reliably, it must meet the following requirements:
- the foundation tape must have sufficient strength and stability;
- the foundation must provide the necessary ventilation of the underground;
- the surface of the basement bed must be straight and located strictly in a horizontal plane;
- the walls and corners of the plinth must be strictly vertical;

The surface of the walls should not have delaminations, chips, empty spaces, shells, open areas with reinforcement;
- the height of the plinth must be at least 50 cm.
All further actions should be aimed at fulfilling these requirements, and only then the list of errors when laying the foundation can be reduced or not at all.

To fill the base, you need to make and install shields. In the case under consideration, 42 m2 will be required - external formwork panels and 30 m2 - internal. More demanding requirements are imposed on external shields, since they form the front part of the foundation. For them, it is advisable to use boards with a section of 50 × 150 mm, which are purchased for rafters. After dismantling the formwork panels, they are used for their intended purpose.

It makes sense to make internal shields (as experience suggests) from boards with a section of 25 × 150 mm, which were purchased for the crate. However, to ensure the strength of the formwork, they must be knocked down in 2 layers.

Rice. 4. Manufacture of formwork panels

In addition to the economical manufacture of formwork panels, it is advisable to use a simplified scheme for installing and fastening formwork panels, which my colleagues and I have been using for a long time. Its essence is as follows. First, external shields are recruited (4 boards per shield). To make the gaps between the boards smaller, you can use a simple method of rallying the boards with shovels (Fig. 4). On the ground, shield ties are laid out from bars with a section of 50 × 50 mm and a length of 80 cm. Boards with a section of 50 × 150 mm are laid on them. The result is a shield with a width of 60 cm, which allows you to get the plinth of the desired height. The boards are pressed against each other with shovels and nailed to the screeds. At the ends of the shields, boards are not knocked together. Locks will be placed there, which are nailed in place when installing shields. The ends of the ties that protrude at the top are used to accommodate wire twists.

Shields of the internal contour are made in the same way, but they are recruited from boards with a section of 25 × 150 mm in two rows with a slight offset. Here, instead of nails, it is advisable to use self-tapping screws for assembly. Ready-made shields are wrapped with roofing material before installation, since glassine and film are torn when pouring concrete, forming unnecessary patterns on the concrete surface.

The main thing when assembling formwork- ensure its stable position at the time of pouring concrete. Insecurely fixed shields at the time of pouring can cause a lot of trouble. So that they do not tip over, they often use various braces, stakes and stops. As a result, the material is wasted, the work takes a lot of time, and the reliability of the formwork installation leaves much to be desired. The most important thing is that the fastening elements take up a lot of space on both sides of the plinth, which interferes with work and makes it difficult for concrete trucks to move.

There is an alternative to such an irrational method of fixing the formwork. For the installation and fastening of the shields, reinforcing pins are used, which are inserted into the sole of the foundation along its central axis. The formwork panels are fastened with wire ties to the pins. As a result, the panels will be securely tied to the base of the foundation and firmly fastened to it without external structures interfering with the work. The pins are installed at the corners of the foundation at the junctions with the lintels, and in the intervals between them they are placed in increments of 1.0-1.5 m.

Consider the technology of mounting shields with reinforcing pins in more detail(Fig. 5). First, the inner contour of the shields is installed. It is placed taking into account the width of the base. Since the sole of the foundation is somewhat wider than the base (40 cm versus 25-30 cm), there is some margin for arranging shields. Shields with the help of locks are connected in the corners and temporarily fastened with scraps of lumber. The correctness of the installation is checked by comparing the diagonals. The temporarily fastened inner formwork box serves as a base for the installation of the outer contour.

Rice. 5 Formwork mounting scheme

Then they act in this sequence. Spacers are attached to each pin, the position of the pins is marked on them (since you cannot put them exactly in the center), nails are hammered into the spacers according to the marks and go around them around the pins. After that, the wire is wound on the pins.

External shields are attached close to the struts, and the ends of the wire are wound on the fastening nails (they are not bent yet). Both formwork walls are temporarily fixed, and 2-4 reinforcement bars ø12-16 mm are laid on the spacers.

The most important moment is the formation of products. These structural elements determine the underground ventilation conditions. Often they are formed using scraps of asbestos-cement pipes or they are hammered together. wooden boxes. The disadvantage of these methods is that with a slight deviation of the shield between it and the liner, a gap is formed where the concrete mixture immediately flows. As a result, work often goes down the drain.

We do things differently in our practice. We take a piece of timber with a section of 150 × 150 mm or a piece of round timber ø130 ... 150 mm, wrap it with 2-3 layers of roofing material and insert it between the shields. For the convenience of pushing the liner and the possibility of draining water from the vent to the outside inner part we make inserts of a smaller section. I note that in the future these plugs can be used to protect the air in the winter.

To improve ventilation conditions, air vents on opposite walls of the basement must be placed coaxially. And so that rodents are not interested in your underground, it is advisable to place a mesh with bent edges between the insert and the inner shield. After pouring concrete, the underground will be reliably protected.

After installing the inserts between the shields, insert and nail the upper spacers, which (together with the lower ones) set the width of the plinth. The rods of the upper reinforcement belt of the basement are also laid on these bars, which are fixed with nails from the transverse displacement at the time of pouring the concrete. It remains to bend up the nails with the wire wound on them, and the shields will be securely drawn to the reinforcing pins.

Vertical reinforcement elements with the considered dimensions of the structure and the conditions for loading the foundation may not be installed.

Now you need to set the height of pouring concrete into the form. To do this, set the height of the fill at the lowest point of the base. From this point, with the help of a hydraulic level, other points are “beaten off” along the entire contour of the foundation. Then, nails are driven through the shields every 1.0-1.5 m, along the protruding ends of which the top of the base is rubbed.

After marking the level of pouring concrete and installing the upper twists, you should still carefully check again (compare the diagonals, make sure that the shields are installed vertically).

For rigidity internal and outer contours shields near the corners must be pulled together with overlays (Fig. 6). And if there are gaps at the bottom of the shields, they should be covered with sand.

Rice. 6. Box formwork

Unfortunately, not all concrete trucks unload concrete with pumps. Therefore, it is necessary to properly prepare for the reception of concrete - to free the entrances and places of stops of the mixer for unloading. It may be necessary to make receiving trays. You can also prepare concrete with your own hands.

It is necessary to pour concrete in layers, carefully controlling the position of the shields. Compaction of concrete is done using vibrators, but you can do without them. Good results are also obtained with a simple tapping on the shields with the butt of an ax - then the surface of the base will be without shells and flaws. But in the corners, to prevent the formation of chipped formations, the mass of concrete must be pierced with a piece of reinforcement (Fig. 7).

Rice. 7. Compaction of concrete in corners

I note that with the traditional (with the help of stakes and spacers) system for installing shields, troubles often arise at the time of pouring concrete. For example, the top or bottom of the shield may partially deviate. This process can be stopped by various supports, but after the concrete has hardened, blisters (“belly”) can form in this place, which will spoil the appearance of the foundation. It's even worse when the concrete is on the ground.

If a deflection of the shield is detected, the supply of concrete should be immediately stopped and the solution should be discarded with shovels from the emergency area. At this time, other masters hammer stakes. Then a brace is inserted, which at one end rests on a peg, and the other, together with a wedge, is brought under the shield (Fig. 8). The bottom of the shield is also fixed with an emphasis on the stake. After that, gently tapping on the wedge, raise the shield a little. This operation is repeated several times until the formwork is completely restored.

Rice. 8. Formwork straightening

If the bottom of the shield has moved away, then a stake is also driven into the ground and a spacer is installed between it and the shield. After that, with the butt of an ax or a sledgehammer, the spacer is gradually driven into place and the “belly” is eliminated.

Concrete is a plastic material, and it is this property that is used to restore formwork. However, this property of concrete must be considered. When the solution vibrates, significant spacer forces occur, and the mixer delivers concrete intensively. In this regard, I would like to draw the reader's attention to typical mistake when attaching shields, when the wire twist is hooked to the boards, and not to the cross-ties (Fig. 9). As a result, the boards move away from the bars and the shield deviates from the vertical.

Rice. 9. You can’t mount shields like that

When constructing the formwork in the manner proposed above, some difficulties may arise. For example, when the pins and ties-crossbars of the shields do not match (see Fig. 5). And this is natural, since it is difficult to combine them. If the difference is large, then it is better to put additional ties. So, at hand it is necessary to have a supply of the necessary material just in case.

The poured concrete is covered from cracking with sawdust, roofing felt or film and moistened with water. After the concrete hardens, proceed to the dismantling of the formwork. There are different opinions on this issue. Someone believes that this should be done after 2 weeks, others are convinced that the form cannot be disassembled until the concrete has gained full strength.

In my opinion, a long exposure time of concrete is useless. It is very difficult to tear off the boards (many of them split), and even minor irregularities cannot be corrected. You can disassemble the formwork already on the third day. Concrete by this time will already gain 25% strength, and some irregularities will not be difficult to remove mechanically. At this time, it is also convenient to close up various chips and sinks.

The finished foundation (Fig. 10) should be carefully examined and checked for the horizontalness of the upper cut (viewpoint /) and the flatness of the basement walls (viewpoint II). If necessary, an instrumental method of control is used, a tape measure, a hydraulic level, a plumb line, etc.

Rice. 10. Foundation control

Preparing for the installation of the beam box

Any building object as a whole and each part of it separately (foundation, walls, ceilings, roof) can be characterized using such concepts as verticality, perpendicularity, parallelism, flatness and straightness.

Most of these parameters are regulated building codes and rules. Unfortunately, amateur developers are not always guided by them, and sometimes they are not aware of the existence of relevant standards. However, this does not reduce the importance of the requirements for structures that are enshrined in these regulatory documents. Even for a reader uninitiated in the subtleties of construction, it is obvious what, for example, non-parallel walls or their different heights can lead to. We will talk about walls today.

Bar of natural moisture

Most often, country houses are built from a bar of natural moisture. This material, which is much cheaper than profiled or glued laminated timber, allows you to build a warm and safe house.

However, without knowledge of the basic rules for working with a bar of natural moisture, success in construction cannot be achieved.

The acquired timber should not be dried. It is necessary to fold the walls from it as quickly as possible, because during drying the material is strongly deformed: it bends, acquires a rhombic shape, or even worse, it twists with a “propeller”.

Some developers prefer to plan the timber, believing that this will allow them not to subsequently sheathe the walls. Others believe that it is necessary to sheathe and insulate walls only on one side and plan only one face of the timber. In my opinion, sheathing walls is still better than their own sides. In this case, planing the beam and chamfering its edges is not necessary.

However, if you have already decided to plan a timber, consider the following. The edge of a beam with a section of 150 × 150 mm can be planed in 2 passes, since the grip width of planers is limited. So that there are no steps on the planed surface, the planer is first planed along the beam, and the second pass is made, holding the tool at an angle a \u003d 25 ° -45 ° to the longitudinal axis ( rice, 11).

Rice. 11. Planing the edges of the timber. So that there are no steps on the planed surface, the planer is first planed along the beam, and the second pass is made at an angle to the longitudinal axis.

The beams laid in the walls dry out. As a result, deep cracks are formed into which water enters, which does not bode well for the structure. The most important thing is that when drying, the bars decrease in size. With this property of wood, one has to seriously reckon with the construction timber houses- shrinkage reaches 3-10% of the height of the walls.

wall requirements. Walls are a fundamental part of the structure, which determines the living conditions in the house and its architectural appearance as a whole. In accordance with this, the following basic requirements can be presented to the walls.

1. The main overall dimensions of the walls should have an optimal ratio.
2. The walls must be straight, and the joints between them (corners) must be strictly vertical.
3. Opposite walls must have the same dimensions throughout their height.
4. Plane top harness buildings must be strictly horizontal.

Of course, this is not a complete list of requirements for walls in general and for a timber box in particular. However, in amateur construction, control only on these parameters gives good results.

Bottom trim and cover

The lower trim should be securely waterproofed from the foundation. Ruberoid for this is not the best choice. Over time, it dries out, the bituminous impregnation evaporates and the wood is practically defenseless. The next method of waterproofing is more reliable. The surface of the base is coated bituminous mastic, and a layer of waterproofing is laid on it, which, thanks to the coating, is connected to the concrete base without gaps. On this litter, the bars of the lower trim are laid, which are pre-treated with protective compounds ( rice. 12).

Rice. 12. Installation of the lower trim and ceiling

Biosecurity wooden structures - the most important construction operation. And here you need to do everything right away so as to ensure the durability of the building. It is no secret that any antiseptics evaporate after a few years. Getting to the structural elements in order to re-process them is difficult, if not impossible. In this regard, it is advisable to first impregnate the material with an antiseptic, and so that it does not evaporate, cover the timber from the outside with bituminous mastic. The antiseptic penetrates deep into the wood, and the mastic protects it from evaporation. Floor beams are processed in the same way.

The laid lower trim after checking the diagonals is connected with brackets ( see pic, 12, Node B), and the position assembled structure mark on the waterproofing of the basement. This is necessary to control the position of the frame on the foundation. For reliability, the strapping can be attached to the plinth with crutches or long nails through plugs. There must be at least two such fasteners on one side. After installing the lower trim, the ceiling is mounted. In construction practice, the following two of its structural schemes are most often used, one of which is the “beam-clay” scheme. In this option, beams are first laid, and logs are mounted across them. The latter are placed more often than beams. The boards placed on the edge, together with the timber, form a rigid structure capable of carrying the specified loads. It is advisable to use such a scheme if thin tongue-and-groove boards are supposed to be used for the floor. With the “beam + lag” scheme, it is easier to resolve issues effective insulation floor, however, the consumption of lumber with this type of overlap increases.

It should be noted that in cottage construction much more often, a floor scheme is used only from beams, on which the floor boards are laid. In this case, a bar with a section of 100 × 200 mm is used as beams. Together with the cranial bars, such beams have sufficient bearing capacity and, no less important, due to their height, they also make it possible to effectively insulate the floor. When using thick floorboards, such beams can be placed in increments of up to 1 m.

The beams should be laid in such a way that there is a ventilation gap (2 cm) between their ends and the strapping. This is done with the help of gaskets, which are removed after fastening with brackets (see Fig. 12, node B). The ends of the beams must be carefully treated with an antiseptic.

The technology for installing beams is simple. First, mount the extreme beams and align them in a horizontal plane. After that, a board is placed on the edge between them and intermediate beams are installed on it. The work is usually controlled visually, and if necessary, a level is applied. Technological flooring is laid on the beams.

Labour Organization

You need to prepare for the assembly of the box, since both the quality of construction and its pace depend on the organization of work. In order for the work to be argued, the bars are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5 m from the building on one or better - on its two sides (Fig. 13). Between the rows of bars lay boards - "inch". To do this, it is advisable to use a material intended for the subfloor.

Rice. 13. Organization of the workplace

Between the stack and the log house, workplaces are equipped for marking the bars and cutting them. You can do it like this. At the desired height (depending on the height of the worker), support boards are inserted between the rows of bars. A beam is carefully laid on them and marked with a template. Then the workpiece is transferred to the place of cutting, the necessary operations are performed, after which, with the help of a rope, the workpiece is lifted along the slopes onto the walls and laid.

To facilitate the ascent to the slopes, it is advisable to nail the wedge-shaped stops. They will prevent the beam from sliding down uncontrollably, which can be a serious danger to workers on the construction site. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to manage with small forces. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the load, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

Bar marking

This stage of work is very responsible, because from correct markup depends on the quality of further construction. Traditionally, marking is done using a tape measure. dimensions they are removed directly from the walls, and then grooves, spikes and other profiles are marked on the ground using a square.

For example, in the case under consideration, each crown consists of 7 bars with a length of 3 to 6 m. To assemble a box, hundreds of measurements must be taken. It is possible to facilitate the work and increase its accuracy if templates are used instead of measurements. Marking in this case is reduced to a simple outline of the contours of the templates with a marker, which allows not only to reduce labor costs, but also to minimize measurement errors. The blanks, when using templates, have identical dimensions, which, ultimately, allows you to achieve High Quality lumber box assembly.

Note that if traditional templates are used (one for two mirrored blanks), then 7 marking devices will be required for the construction of walls, which will inevitably clutter up the workspace (Fig. 14). Perhaps that is why many builders do not like templates, despite the obvious advantages of using them. So you need to make sure that there are not too many marking devices.

Rice. 14. Schemes for cutting beams: 1.1' - the main beam of the longitudinal wall (right and left); 2,2′ - additional bars of the longitudinal wall (right and left extensions); 3 - marking holes; 4 - marks on the edges; 5 - removed parts of the workpiece; 6 - template of the transverse wall; 7 - partition beam; 8 - beam of the transverse wall; 9 - marking holes.

Rice. 5. Scheme for the development of templates for longitudinal walls: 1 - main beam; 2- additional beam; 3 1 partition; 4 - corner grooves; 5 - groove for partition beam; 6 - template of the longitudinal wall; 7 - extensions; a,d - cuts on the edges; b, c - marking holes.

Consider the principles of template development (Fig. 15). So, let's say we have to assemble a timber box with dimensions of 6 × 9 m. If available standard lumber(6 m) this can be done, at first glance, without unnecessary waste. However, it is not. It is possible to assemble a crown 9 m long without loss of lumber only if the workpieces 6 m long and 3 m long are spliced ​​end-to-end (this masonry is often called "brick"). However, this connection is a gross construction mistake, since such a joint turns into a "cold bridge".

The correct connection of the beams is “half a tree” with an overlap of 15.. .20 cm. But then the total length of the spliced ​​parts will be not 9 m, but 8.8 m. In this case, the joints are staggered, which should be taken into account when developing template profiles.

The inner wall (partition) should be placed with some offset from the joint to the right or left. Thus, on one crown, long bars are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, laying begins in the same order, but on the right.

Having determined the exact dimensions of the parts included in each crown, you can proceed to a detailed study of the contours of the templates for the right and left versions.

Templates can be made from edged "inch" boards prepared for battens. Plasti boards should be pre-cut.

To mark the extensions, you can not make separate templates, but place them on the main templates by making 4 small cuts (“a” and “d”) on their edges and drilling two holes (“b” and “c”). Thanks to the through holes, the template becomes technologically "transparent" while its actual "opacity". Thus, a typical technical contradiction can be resolved quite simply.

After marking the template, the shaded parts are cut out. Marking devices are ready.
As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from 7 to 3 (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse ones). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.

Moreover, only a partition installed asymmetrically forces you to make 2 longitudinal templates. With a symmetrical installation, one marking device would be enough.

When designing templates, keep in mind that construction site marking devices can be rotated 180° relative to the longitudinal axis, and also moved along the longitudinal axis. It is strongly not recommended to provide for a 180° rotation of a long template around the vertical axis, since it will be practically impossible to do this during operation. Now let's look at how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is placed on the beam and the end of the template is circled with a marker on the left, then two grooves and, finally, a sample for a “half-tree” connection. The marked beam is transferred to the place of cutting, where unnecessary fragments (it is better to shade them when marking) are cut out with a chain saw.

The same is done with the second beam. On the longitudinal wall, for each full beam, we need to make an “addition”. To do this, a template is placed on the beam (position I in Fig. 14) and circled. A selection for a “half-tree” connection at the end of the workpiece is marked with an awl, pricking a beam at points “c” and “b” (see Fig. 14, node A).

Then the template is shifted (position II in Fig. 14) and outlined again. A beam with two marked additional parts is placed on linings in the cutting area. After sawing out the shaded sections, extensions are obtained for both longitudinal walls. The arrows in Fig. 14 shows the manipulations with the installation of additional parts in the walls.
Since the joints of the bars are staggered, the markings of the crown located above begin on the right side. Here, the elements of the corner locks are already changing: if there was a groove on the longitudinal beam, and a spike on the transverse beam, then now everything should be the other way around.

However, how to mark the details with spikes? Do you need to make separate templates for them, or do you get by with the marking devices that you already have? It is quite obvious that the tenon and groove are elements of the same assembly, which means that they must correspond to each other in size and location, which means that the pattern with grooves can be used to build tenon profiles on timber blanks. On fig. 14 (node ​​B] shows a template of a transverse wall with a groove and parts with a spike obtained with it. Moreover, for the manufacture of a partition, holes were drilled in the template that set the width of its spike.

As for the dimensions of the stud, in no case should the stud be allowed to fit snugly into the groove. The spike will subsequently dry out, and as a result, a channel will form, which will certainly turn into a “cold bridge”. Therefore, if the dimensions of the groove are 5 × 5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions of 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with insulation.

Until now, speaking of markup, we assumed that the profile of the template is transferred to the upper face of the beam. Various grooves and spikes are sawn from the side. This means that the horizontal markup must be transferred to the vertical edge of the beam. Do this with the help of squares. According to this markup, accurate cuts are carried out.

Practical construction experience shows that keeping in mind the sequence of marking elements corner connections unreal. Therefore, errors often occur here when a spike is marked instead of a groove, and vice versa. And this is not surprising, if you do not use the system by which it becomes extremely simple to mark grooves and spikes. The diagram (Fig. 16) shows walls with the designation serial number crown, such as connecting elements at the ends of the blanks, as well as the positions of the openings in the wall. Such a scheme, which can be applied directly to the template, simplifies the organization of work and prevents markup errors.

Rice. 16. Scheme for marking the corner joints of the beam box: 1 - joints of the details of the longitudinal walls; 2-door openings

For hundreds of years, our ancestors built wooden houses, during this time many new, modern building materials have appeared, but people invariably return to natural materials and the best of them is considered to be a tree.

Wooden houses:

• warm,
• reliable,
• beautiful,
• durable.

But they have another important advantage, a wooden house is quite easy to build. Having 3 people who know how to use carpentry, locksmith tools as assistants, in one season you can build a good wooden house, from profiled or glued beams, and with your own hands.

Important: You can lay the foundation in advance while it is warm, and build the house itself when the cold comes.

What is a bar

The most popular are two types. Profiled timber is a wooden product, square or rectangular section.

The beam can be even, geometrically regular shape. Or profiled, having a certain profile, which allows the product to be joined more tightly at the junction points.

Glued laminated timber appeared relatively recently, it can be called a product of new, advanced technologies.

Visually, it looks like a profiled one. But the production technology is more complex. Glued laminated timber consists of several layers of wood, fastened using a special technology. It is stronger, more durable and easier to work with.

Important: Profiled timber can shrink up to 50 mm per 1m, depending on the dryness of the timber. Glued laminated timber shrinks, on average, by 10-15 mm.

The thickness of the timber ranges from 90 mm to 275 mm.

The most popular are the profile section:

1. 100 mm by 150 mm.
2. 100 mm by 200 mm.
3. 150 mm by 200 mm.
4. 180 mm by 200 mm.

With a maximum, standard length up to 12m.

Wall length

m

Wall width

m

Wall height

m

Bar section

150x150 mm. 180x180 mm. 200x200 mm.

Beam length

5 m 6 m 7 m 8 m 9 m 10 m 11 m 12 m

We are preparing a project

You will not be able to build from a bar without a project.

It is no secret that in the CIS, there are many countries, and the level of bureaucracy is practically the same. We provide a list of the main documents that you will need to prepare.

• A foundation drawing is required, with a detailed description with a full layout by material, composition, depth, etc. As well as detailed data on the soil, composition, quality, ground water etc.
• The next number, building plan. You prepare it based on the drawing of the foundation, but also with a detailed description.
• After you need a floor, detailed plan. In it, indicate in detail partitions, stoves, fireplaces, windows, doors, etc.
• Another, really important document, scatter. Simply put, this detailed drawing sectional walls of the house. By unloading, you will be able to place an order for the manufacture of timber, it will be made for you and marked as a designer. Then just look at the numbers and collect.
• Specification of every detail of the house.
• Detailed drawing of the roof, with a detailed description of all layers.
• Final view of the house.

Please note: take seriously the description of the timber itself, what kind of wood, what kind of profile, the level of dryness of the timber, etc. This will eliminate misunderstandings when ordering.

The package of documents is solid, of course, you can rest, although the work is painstaking, but you yourself are quite capable. But my advice is don't waste your time. The collection of papers may take longer than the construction itself. Trust the professionals, they will be happy to help you on our website and it will cost you much less than amateur performance.

Foundation laying

To build houses from a bar, a capital, expensive foundation is not required. These structures are relatively light in weight.

For construction

1. Shallow strip foundation. This type of foundation is laid in a trench and has a maximum depth of up to 50 cm.
2. Mixed or strip-column foundation. This type is similar to tape. But in all important nodes, it has reinforcement in the form of concrete pillars.
3. Columnar. This foundation is based on pillars connected by a concrete or metal grillage.
4. On screw metal piles or piles with screws. A product of modern technology. Metal, corrosion-resistant piles are screwed into the ground and connected with a grillage. The foundation is convenient, also because it is easily repaired.
5. On wooden piles, in given time it is rarely used because the tree, no matter how you process it, still deteriorates in the ground.
6. On concrete piles. The foundation is excellent, but expensive. To drive a concrete pile, you will need special construction equipment.

In order to build from a bar, the first 4 options are enough. The instructions below, with minor amendments, are suitable for the first 3 types of foundation.

Tape

• Any foundation starts with markings. For marking, we use ordinary wooden pegs and fishing line. At a distance of 30-40 cm from the projected wall, we drive in the pegs and pull the fishing line.
• The body of the foundation will be indicated not by driven pegs, but by a fishing line.

Important: after stretching the fishing line, you should measure the diagonals. The distance along the diagonals must be strictly the same. Even the slightest discrepancy speaks of wrong angles, and you will get an asymmetrical foundation.

• We take out the soil to a depth of 50 cm. Consider the thickness of the formwork. Control the bottom of the trench by level.
• Next, we make 2 pillows up to 10 cm each. Sand, plus gravel.
• We proceed to the installation of formwork.
• We invest in waterproofing, the most budget option, this is roofing material or thick, technical polyethylene.
• We weld or knit a reinforcing, metal frame.
• We fill it with concrete, it is better to fill it all at once, in a complex way. Order a mixer, pour the foundation in one go and wait for it to harden.
• Remove the formwork, and in its place pour a cushion of rubble.

mixed foundation

It differs from the previous tape one by the presence of reinforcing pillars at the corners of the structure and at the most stressed nodes. Therefore, to the above, instructions for pouring the pillars with your own hands are added.

• We drill a hole under each post, to a depth of 1m.
• We make a similar mastering of sand and gravel.
• We turn the pipe from the roofing material into 2-3 layers and fix it with adhesive tape.
• We insert the pipe into the hole, mount reinforcing cage, 200 mm higher general level foundation.
• Before the main pour, make the sole of the pillar. To do this, pour the solution into the pipe and raise the pipe, allowing the solution to spread. When the solution hardens a little, start pouring the entire foundation.

Column type foundation

The pillars in this foundation can be made, as in the previous version, from concrete. So lay out from a brick, in the form of a curbstone.

Just lay out the cabinet with a well, and insert the reinforcing cage inside and fill it with concrete.

Himself, the cabinets are set according to the level and a grillage is mounted on them.

The grillage can be concrete, then formwork is made on the pillars in the form of a bath, waterproofed, reinforcement is installed and concrete is poured. Or welded from metal, which is attached to the reinforcing cage of the pillars.

Making crowns

Crowns, this is the first row of timber. To build a good house from a bar, carefully consider the installation of the crowns.

The video in this article clearly shows the installation of dowels.

Making the floor

At this stage, you should lay the foundation of the floor, a draft version. The final finish will be done along with the interior decoration.

If you are building a relatively small building, bathhouse or garden house. It will be quite enough for you to lay an additional belt of timber along the perimeter, fasten it with a crown and mount logs on this belt.

But if the house occupies a large area, the approach will be somewhat different.

With a large quadrature, separate pedestals should be laid out to support the floor, something similar to a separate foundation for the floor.

• Depending on the composition of the soil, we lay the columns to a depth of half a meter.
• We make them square 40x40 or 50x50. Bookmark step from 50 to 90 cm.
• In layers up to about 10 cm, we lay and compact sand and gravel.
• We make a small reinforcing cage, up to 10 cm high, install it and fill it with concrete.
• Next, we waterproof this base and lay out a cabinet of bricks, to the level of the beams.
• We lay down the waterproofing again and mount the beams.
• We grab the logs to the beams with self-tapping screws.
• Between the lag, with the help of a corner, we mount waterproof plywood.
• We waterproof and glue all joints with adhesive tape.
• We lay the insulation on top and cover it with a subfloor.

Building walls

If you did everything right before that, then building walls from a beam with your own hands will not be difficult for you.

• The profiled beam already has special grooves, they will facilitate the connection.
• Corner connection do as you like, there are 3 types of corner connection:

1. Back to back.
2. Half a tree.
3. By means of a root spike.

• Be sure to lay insulation between the timber.
• Control each laid beam by level and fix it with a dowel.
• In the window area, leave technological gaps for shrinkage.

Important: when you put in the house bearing wall or supporting columns under the roof, they should not be rigidly fixed to the roof at first. Take self-tapping screws and that's enough. When the house begins to sit down and walk, you will have to adjust the height of the support. When you sit down, fix it completely.

This video will tell you about the intricacies of building walls.

Starting roof installation

Roof is enough milestone construction, but you can mount it yourself.

• First, knock down a template from light boards. On it you will install the rafters.
• Next, set the beginning and end of the construction according to the template.
• Between installed rafters, at control points, according to the level, we stretch the strings from the fishing line.
• Focusing on the strings, controlling the level and template, we mount the rest of the rafters.
• We fill the crate on top and fasten it with a stapler under the bottom, overlapping the vapor barrier.
• Under the vapor barrier, between the rafters, we lay the insulation, close it with another layer of vapor barrier.
• Next, we finally fix the bottom layer of the crate, it is already possible to attach the lining to it according to your taste and wallet.
• Top most budget option, is a coating on the upper crate of the roofing material and on top of it sheets of slate.

The video presented in this article will help you understand the types of roofs.

As you can see, the project is needed and important!

Conclusion

As you can see, there is nothing particularly difficult in building a house from profiled or glued beams. Moreover, such houses are much safer than concrete boxes and their prices will be much lower.

And then, if you are short on funds, it is better to build a beautiful, warm, reliable house from a bar in a season and already move in, rather than dreaming or collecting for a long time on a stone one.

Easy construction!

Probably, among summer residents there is not a single person who would not dream of his own small, cozy, country house. Such a building can become a wonderful place for recreation and residence of the whole family for the whole summer.

But living will be even more pleasant if the owner builds the house with his own hands, because it is absolutely easy to do this, especially if you have already encountered construction or at least repair work in your life.

Well, even if you have never held a drill or a hammer in your hands, do not despair, because this article will provide detailed step-by-step construction instructions.

Preparatory activities

Before you start the construction process itself, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules, prepare a project for a country house from a bar, and also purchase the necessary Construction Materials.

Note!
We will consider all stages of construction using the example of a one-story building 4x5 meters with access to the attic, but without an attic.

Primary requirements

There are several basic rules that everyone who undertakes construction should know:

• Selection of a building site. The location should be chosen in such a way that the building is accessible and practical. It should exclude the possibility of ignition from neighboring structures. It is also necessary to provide for the supply of communications to the selected site;

Note!
The choice of a building site should take into account the basic rules: the distance from the street should be 5 meters or more; from the fences of neighboring areas from 3 meters or more; and wooden structures should be 15 meters or more away from your home.

• soil analysis.
  Before starting construction work, it is necessary to analyze the soil on the site in order to determine:
  • The level of occurrence of groundwater;
  • The level of soil freezing;
• Preparation on the site of the place where materials necessary for the construction process will be stored and stored.

Advice. Consider also the presence of covered areas in order to protect purchased building materials from rain.

Project work

Drawing up documentation consists in specifying the parameters of the structure and creating a sketch:

• First you need to specify the dimensions of the building. Since we are talking about a one-story building, the length, width, height of the walls and roof will be enough. In our case, these are: length - 4m, width - 5m, height - 3m, which means that the structure will have an area of ​​​​20 m2 and a volume of 60 m3;
• After the location of the main walls is drawn on paper, it is necessary to determine the number and location of partitions that can divide the building into 1-2 rooms. The building in question is small, so one partition separating the kitchen and sleeping areas will be enough;
• AT project documentation all building materials that will be used in the construction of the building must be indicated.

Construction Materials

Timber is an environmentally friendly building material that is perfect for the construction of country houses. The roof for such a structure can be made of metal tiles or corrugated board, which is a fairly economical option.

As for the finish, in this situation, the best choice would be varnish or paint, which will not only allow you to create beautiful interior, but also protect building materials from moisture, positively affecting the strength of the structure. But in order for paints and varnishes to adhere well to wood, it must be prepared for finishing work by processing with specialized protective substances.

Note!
The price of such construction depends directly on what kind of timber will be purchased.
Dacha houses are built from both profiled and glued laminated timber, the latter option being more expensive, but it is easier and more convenient to work with.

Tools for the job

In the process of work, you will need the following set of tools:

• Screwdriver;
• Electric drill;
• Roulette;
• Plumb and building level;
• Electric jigsaw;
• Hacksaw;
• Furniture stapler;
• mallet and hammer;
• Roller and brushes for finishing works.

Foundation work

After everything preparations will be finished and the tools bought, it's time to start. Often, small timber country houses are not the way to heavily load the soil, so the most cost-effective is the construction of a columnar base.

It is not difficult to build this type of foundation on your own if you work according to the following instructions:

1. Digging holes. Pits are dug in such a way that their bottom is located below the freezing level of the soil;

Advice. For ease of production further work a hole should be dug about 0.5 m in diameter so that the finished post, processed waterproofing materials and then fill the gaps with soil.

1. Sand pillow. A layer of sand about 10-15 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the pit and carefully compacted;
2. Formwork construction. A formwork for a pole with a section of 15x15 cm is constructed from plywood or boards in a pit so that the pole is 20-30 cm above the soil level;
3. Mixing the solution.
   In a prepared container or on a spread polyethylene film We mix the solution from the following ingredients:
   1. Cement;
   2. Water;
   3. Sand;
   4. crushed stone;
4. Fill. The resulting thick mass is poured into the previously created formwork;
5. Reinforcement. In order for the pillar to have the required level of strength, 3-4 metal rods must be inserted into the freshly poured solution;

1. Waterproofing. After the solution sets, i.e. after 5-7 days, it is necessary to remove the singe and coat the resulting column with bitumen;
2. Backfill. The gaps are covered in layers with soil, which is carefully compacted;

Note!
Pillars should be located at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from each other.

1. Horizontal check. After all the work on creating the supports has been completed, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of the resulting structure. If the error between the heights is no more than 3-5 mm, then it is necessary to cover the tops of the supports with roofing material;
2. Base. Now that the foundation is ready, it remains only to lay a base made of beams on it, fastening them together with ordinary nails.

Walling

When erecting country houses from profiled timber, a material with a section of 10x10 cm will be quite enough. This size is quite enough for the building to withstand possible loads.

The process of building walls is divided into the following stages:

1. First of all, it is necessary to lay out one row of material directly on the base;
2. The second row of timber is laid with fixation along the entire length with the help of dowels, which are located in 1 meter increments;

Advice. This type of fastener must be embedded in the material to a depth of 1-2 cm in order to exclude its contact with the material of the next row.

1. It is better to start work from one corner, erecting two perpendicular walls, not forgetting where they will be located. internal partitions buildings, if any, provided for by the project;

Advice. For the construction of internal walls, it is necessary to provide additional grooves in the bars and lay the internal and external walls simultaneously.

1. Window and door openings should remain empty until the structure has completely shrunk. This is necessary in order to avoid distortions and irregularities.

roof construction

Roof installation is one of the most important and critical stages of construction, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure directly depends on the roof:

1. Horizontal logs are installed, which are also ceilings;
2. Vertical supports are attached to these same logs in the center, equal in height to the size indicated in the gable roof project;

Advice. If you decide to build a gable construction, then the vertical supports must be placed depending on the type of roof you have chosen.
So, for example, for a shed type of roof, the supports are mounted directly above the load-bearing wall.

1. Rafters are installed, which should be fixed metal corners for self-tapping screws. Rafters are located with a step of not more than 60 cm;
2. With the help of horizontal boards, the rafters are attached to each other;
3. The surface of the roof is sheathed from the inside with a windproof cloth using a furniture stapler;
4. It remains only to fix the roofing materials you have chosen and the roof is ready.

Advice. Inexpensive and most popular corrugated sheets in this business are fastened without the need for additional drilling using galvanized self-tapping screws and a drill with a suitable drill.

If you plan to use such a building not only in the summer, but all year round, then you will need to insulate the roof with a lumber insulation fixed between the rafters.

Warming and finishing works

But, on the other hand, no one bothers the owners to live in the country in the winter, but then it will be necessary to do the following:

• Styrofoam is the most affordable, inexpensive and easy-to-use insulation;
• Before attaching it to the walls, you need to decide how your insulation will be external or internal;

Note!
External insulation can spoil the appearance of the facade, and internal insulation will eat up the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building;

• Before laying the insulating layer, the tree must be treated with antiseptic agents, protecting it from insects and mold formations.

After the thermal insulation has been made, it is necessary to produce and finish. As mentioned earlier, the timber must be painted or varnished in order for the wood to retain its strength characteristics and texture.

Finally

As you could understand, building a country house with your own hands is a process that does not require special skills and specialized equipment from the master, it is enough to clearly follow the technology.

In order to build such a structure at your own dacha, you will not need to rent construction equipment. 2-3 people are enough to work with the timber, and the house will be ready in just a few weeks. Most importantly, do not forget to wait for the shrinkage time before moving into such a structure.

The video in this article will tell you even more about the intricacies and tricks of building from a bar.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The art of building a wooden house can be mastered independently. The material chosen, as a rule, is a beam: glued or profiled. It differs in the method of manufacture, but the construction technology is almost the same for each of them. The tree allows you to save on hiring workers, since 3 people can build a house from a bar with their own hands. Heavy equipment is not needed for this, you just need to prepare a concrete mixer, a concrete pump, a winch, a chainsaw and small tool.

What will the house be like?

The beam is used in low-rise private construction for the construction of houses no higher than 3 floors. The operational properties of the material, favorable internal microclimate, beautiful design contribute to the choice of this particular material for building a house. A beam is different from a log rectangular shape, and this is its advantage, as it allows you to immediately get a flat surface. Its benefits are obvious: it is easy to make interior and exterior cladding, any interior details can be hung on the walls. Also, the use of timber eliminates cold bridges due to the exact fit of wooden elements.

The tree allows you to create an exclusive design project for any building: a small cottage, a one-story house, a luxurious cottage. It can provide balconies with beautiful railings, cozy terraces, verandas. A multi-pitched roof decorates a building more than other types of roofing, especially if it has a large total area. The project of the house must be ordered from a professional organization. This will guarantee taking into account the properties of the soil, the correct calculation of the material, and compliance with the construction technology.

Everything starts from the foundation

A house made of timber has sufficient weight, therefore, it requires a solid, reliable foundation. If it is planned to make a basement or cellar under the house, choose a strip foundation. If the soil is wet, muddy, loose - right decision will be the application screw piles. A small house can be built on a slab solid foundation. In this case concrete base serves simultaneously as a draft floor of the first floor.

The pile-grillage foundation is arranged in the same way as the strip foundation, but with the installation of concrete piles in the trenches. Used on loose soils high level freezing. The strip foundation is the most popular: it can withstand heavy loads, can be built without the use of equipment, the work technology is simple to perform. This type of base is suitable for all private houses, so its device is discussed below.

First, markup is made exactly along the perimeter of the future house. Designate the location of the load-bearing internal walls. According to the marking, they dig trenches, the width of which is 10 cm greater than the width of the walls. For the basement, it is necessary to dig a foundation pit of the appropriate size, for the cellar - a hole. The depth of the trenches should be greater than the freezing level of the soil, but not less than 60 cm. A sand cushion of sand (10 cm) and gravel (10 cm) is poured into the bottom of the trenches, the layers are leveled. Sand should be moistened and compacted to ensure its sufficient density. The pillow is poured thin layer concrete (5 cm).

Formwork, reinforcement, concreting

For removable formwork, a 25 mm board is taken and knocked down in the form of shields. They should rise above the level of the trench by at least 40 cm (the outer height of the foundation of the house, which is indicated in the project). The displacement of the formwork is prevented by the arrangement of spacers between the inner walls and the supporting boards from the outside.

Reinforcement is carried out with 10 mm rods in 2 layers. The frame is laid first along, then across; the intersections are fixed with knitting wire. It is important that the rods do not touch the formwork. The gap should be 5 cm. concrete mortar can be made in two ways:

• the ratio of cement M400 and sand 1:3;
• the ratio of cement M400, sand and special additives 1:4:4.

Concrete at the construction site can be kneaded in a concrete mixer, poured into trenches using a special concrete pump. It is important to prevent the formation of air bubbles in the foundation before it solidifies, so a cement vibrator must be used. The uncured surface is moistened with water to prevent the foundation from hardening too quickly. At this stage, the construction of a house from a bar with your own hands is suspended for 20-30 days. This time is required for the foundation to completely solidify and be able to apply the main load on itself.

The consumption of materials and the cost of the building depend on the method of assembling a house from a bar. You can reduce them by choosing wireframe method construction, however, this article discusses the classic masonry of a house made of timber. Wood species most suitable for self construction, easy to process and at the same time inexpensive: larch, pine, spruce.

The first crown is laid on a double layer of rolled insulation laid on the foundation. It is placed alternately with bitumen heated to liquid state. Thus, the following layers are obtained:

• bitumen,
• ruberoid,
• bitumen,
• ruberoid.

The width of the insulation exceeds the width of the foundation by 30 cm. Next, work begins with the timber. It is important that every detail is pre-treated with an antiseptic. It will protect the tree from decay, damage by pests. Flame retardants are also used to protect wood from burning. Impregnation of each log separately is more effective than the entire building, since in the second case, untreated areas will remain at the joints of the beams.

The very first board, lining, is rigidly attached to the foundation through a layer of waterproofing. An ebb is fixed to it, which will protect the log house from precipitation by draining water. There are 2 ways to lay the first crown:

• on the lining board
• on cross rails.

The second option provides additional clearance, and hence ventilation. Reiki 10 mm thick are attached across the foundation to the lining board in increments of 30 cm. The length of the rails is equal to the width of the board. Here it is important to constantly check the horizontal laying of the elements. It is better to use a laser level, you can use an oil-drop level. The quality of the entire structure depends on the competent, unhurried assembly of the first crown. For it, a beam of 150x150 mm is used.

Features of connecting bars

Profiled and glued beams have a 4-angle profile, and for the construction of houses, section sizes of 140x140 mm and 90x140 mm are used. The front side can be convex or flat (for profiled timber; for glued timber it is always flat). On the upper and lower side of the beam, a thorn-groove connection is made at the factory. It allows you to connect the elements as tightly and rigidly as possible. Laying of each new row is carried out on a layer of jute interventional insulation. Between themselves, the crowns are connected by vertical driving of the dowel with a step of 1 m, to a depth of 30 cm.

More about insulation

Jute insulation eliminates the formation of cold bridges in winter. This prevents condensation of the façade, mold growth in the wood structure, and significantly increases the life of the structure. Mezhventsovy heater it is better to buy in the form of a tape of suitable width. Secure it with a construction stapler.

It should be noted that the use of tow or linen does not prevent the appearance of microscopic gaps in the frame, since it is impossible to ensure the uniformity of the layer. The tape insulation is deprived of these shortcomings, it has the same thickness and high-quality non-woven fabric, connected by a needle-punched method.

How to lengthen a beam?

The length of the walls of the house often exceeds the length of the beam, and in this case, it is necessary to carry out a competent connection of the joints. The assembly is carried out in dressing, that is, the vertical seam of each next row is shifted relative to the previous one. For a strong connection of the joints, they make it washed down in half a tree along the beam. After connection, rigidity is provided by driving pins. The reliability of the connection can be increased by placing the joint on the partition.

Window and doorways are arranged with masonry over short beam. In these places, only solid material is used. 2 dowels are hammered into the crowns near the openings. The second method involves cutting openings in the finished log house. In this case, the pins should be located outside the opening, but close to its edge. Sawing begins with markings using a plumb line and level. The work is done with a chainsaw.

Timber roofing

A beautiful roof consists of several slopes, and the presence of an attic with several windows makes it original. In the absence of skills, you can arrange yourself gable roof- this is a practical, efficient, aesthetic type of roofing. For the Mauerlat, a beam of 150x150 mm is chosen and fastened to the crown of the wall with brackets, dowels, anchor bolts.

The rafters rest on the Mauerlat. It should be noted that in this place it is customary to make a triangular notch for a stronger engagement of both elements. In wooden houses, which shrink significantly, a recess is not made, since displacement can deform the structure. The best way attach the rafters and provide the ability to move - use a steel "sled" mount. It consists of 2 elements that allow the rafter to change the angle due to shrinkage of the house.

The rafter system consists of a strong beam and is a frame. It sets the shape of the roof, consists of duplicate elements. The angle of inclination, step, length, thickness of the rafters are indicated in the project. As a rule, they take a bar with a width of 150-180 mm, a thickness of 50 mm or more. Between themselves, the elements of the system are connected by a tenon-groove fastener and steel plates. Raising the rafters to a given angle is carried out with the help of special elements - rafter legs, which are the higher, the more the bars rise up.

Installed truss system cover with a vapor barrier layer, mount a counter-lattice and a crate on top. The first is assembled from slats 2 cm thick, stuffing them onto the insulating material along the rafters. The crate is nailed across the rafters with nails, the pitch of the bars depends on the choice of roofing material. If tiles are laid, a continuous crate is required; for corrugated board and slate, it is nailed in increments of 30 cm.

If an attic is planned, the roof is insulated from the inside with mineral wool slabs laid between the rafters. Lining material is chosen lining or drywall. Wooden house shrinks within 1-2 years. During this period, you can live in it, but the walls cannot be finished with facing materials.