Log cabin marking technology. Ways of cutting timber and logs: options for corner joints and their differences

Our country is rich in forests, so the tree for the construction of residential buildings has been used by our ancestors since ancient times. Log cabins were assembled from logs, beams, gun carriages. Methods for connecting elements in corners have been improved over the centuries. One of the popular ways is cutting into a paw, in which the ends of the elements do not protrude beyond the corners of the log cabins. When using profiled beams for log cabins, only this method is used.

Advantages of the method

• clean, without protruding ends of the crowns, the corners give the constructs an aesthetic, attractive appearance, allowing convenient finishing of facades with a variety of materials, for example, siding;
• the use of the entire length of a beam or log leads to material savings and cheaper construction.

Existing cons

• low structural stability;
• the appearance of cracks and drying out in the corner joints, which leads to exposure to blowing. There is a need for periodic sealing of corners;
• the technology of felling a log house into a paw requires qualified execution and careful marking; without experience in carrying out such work, it is almost impossible to ensure proper quality.

Varieties of making joints in the paw

1. Direct connection. It can be unilateral and bilateral. In the first case, grooves are sawn or cut out at the ends of the bars for the length of the section of the element and a depth equal to half its thickness. In the second version, the grooves are selected from the top and bottom of the element to a quarter of its thickness. The fastening of the crowns in the corners is carried out with wooden dowels made of hard wood. Fastening takes place in holes drilled in a checkerboard pattern. The spikes should fit snugly into the hole, for which their diameter is chosen slightly larger than the holes themselves.
2. Dovetail. Paws in such joints are performed with a slight slope. The middle part of each is fixed between the upper and lower paws in the form of a wedge. The connection is stronger and more reliable, but the most difficult to perform. The sloping surface shapes provide additional stability to the structure, but the sloping surface makes it easier for moisture to enter the corner during rain. To eliminate negative consequences, high-quality additional waterproofing is required.
3. Connection with additional spike, called the prisec. Cutting corners into a paw with such connections is more reliable than described above, but more difficult to perform. At the inner corners of the log house, a spike is left on the upper part in the form of a protrusion of about 2 cm and an area of ​​up to a quarter of the cutting area. A groove is hollowed out in the lower element under this protrusion. The entry of the slit into the groove must be tight without the slightest possibility of displacement of the joint. Assembling a log house resembles a children's designer. With high-quality performance, a tight fit of the crowns without displacement is ensured.

Regardless of the method of execution, when cutting a log house into a paw with your own hands, without sufficient experience in carrying out such work, it is recommended that you follow the golden rule: initially, cut down a little less than the required size. If the cutting exceeds the required dimensions, it will be impossible to correct such an omission, and it is not difficult to fit the connection tightly by removing the excess after fitting.

Material selection

For any log cabins, it is recommended to use coniferous wood of natural moisture, cut down in winter, preferably from the northern regions. Pine is the cheapest, larch and cedar are more expensive, but stronger and more durable. The trunks must be even along the entire length and the same size.

Removal of the bark from all sides of the logs is carried out using a special tool called a scraper. You can also remove the bark with an ordinary shovel with a cut-off nose and a sharpened lower edge. It is unacceptable to remove the bark mechanized, with the help of power tools, nozzles for chainsaws or a grinder, since the upper layers of the main wood will be broken along with the bark. After that, the blanks are stacked with spacers for ventilation and covered with roofing material. Drying lasts ≥ 6 months.

The beam must be dry, not have visible cracks, mechanical damage, falling knots, rot and damage by mold or fungus.

Marking when cutting a log house into a paw

It is possible to qualitatively cut log cabins only with the correct marking of the ends of the beams or logs. It is recommended to choose a timber of the same section; with an increase in thickness, the house will be warmer, since this reduces the number of corner joints. When using logs, the element with the smallest thickness at the end is taken as a sample and the rest is adjusted according to it. In order not to work with each end individually, it is recommended to make a template for cutting into a paw from thick cardboard or plywood, which will allow marking by applying a template to each end.

Markup includes the following operations:

• careful trimming of elements;
• drawing a horizontal line along the center of the log from each end, control with a laser level, with a mark of its middle;
• having applied the template, two vertical lines are drawn, spaced by the width of the template from the center, control is carried out by the vertical building level;
• a strong thread is pulled along the outlined lines of the cheeks of the paws, along which the longitudinal parts of the cheeks are drawn with a length equal to the diameter of the log;
• according to the markup, the cheeks are cut out with a check for the correctness of the template, which should fit tightly, but without much effort.

After cutting all the logs into a paw and carefully fitting them, a control assembly is carried out on a flat area away from the foundation, with the assembled aging for several months. For tight fitting of logs, a longitudinal groove is developed at the bottom of the upper rims, into which a jute tape or tow is laid during assembly. With the help of an electric planer, the surface of the logs inside the log house is processed with their trimming, felling of knot protrusions and sharp bends. Each element is subject to marking, according to which it will be possible to carry out the final assembly.

After that, knot protrusions are processed with an electric planer. If there are sharp bends, protrusions on the log, then they are aligned.

Ready-made kits from timber with cut-out paws and marking the assembly order can be purchased at specialized bases.

Construction of a log house

Scope of work:

1. Foundation construction. The log house is lightweight, so there is no need for massive foundation structures. Most often, columnar or low-depth tapes are used. Waterproofing of surfaces in contact with the ground, if necessary, insulation device. Backfilling with drainage soils.
2. The supporting lower crown is laid on a horizontal waterproofing of two layers of waterproofing. The first two elements are laid strictly parallel, the next 2 logs are laid perpendicularly on top of them. The resulting rectangle is carefully aligned using a laser level.
3. Installation of the following links with a tight fit of the connection of the paws. When assembling, tow is used.
4. After the assembly is completed, the longitudinal and corner seams are sealed. The wood is treated with flame retardant and antiseptic preparations.
5. At the end, the corners are insulated from the inside with modern heat insulators.

After the assembly is completed, the log house is kept covered from atmospheric precipitation for a year, after which the cracks are re-caulked and further roofing and finishing works are performed.

The traditional material for the construction of the Russian bath is a solid log. In addition to the affordable price, the sawlog (aka round timber) also attracts with another feature: a person with little experience in carpentry can make a log house with his own hands. You will need: the availability of time, the desire to self-study and theoretical training, combined with practice. Hence the purpose of our article - to intelligibly tell how to properly cut down a log sauna with a steam room.

We collect a bath from logs

The first task that needs to be solved in advance is the allocation of a site for the construction of a bath. Find a place near your home, preferably near a body of water or a pool. The recommended location of the building and indents from other objects on a summer cottage or personal plot are shown in the diagram.

The next step is to draw up a layout of the premises, taking into account the allocated area. As a rule, 3 rooms are made in the sauna - a washing room, a steam room and a dressing room, which at the same time serves as a rest room. You can read more about the correct breakdown of the area. Now that the planning is done, let's take a closer look at how to cut and assemble your log cabin.

So, the production of works is divided into the following stages:

1. Selection of materials and preparation of tools.
2. The device of the foundation for a log house.
3. Cutting the first crown and subsequent assembly of the walls.

Lumber selection

It is customary for us to build log houses from coniferous wood - pine, spruce and larch. It is better to lay the latter in the first 2-3 crowns, since it resists moisture well. Freshly cut wood is allowed to mature and dry for 1 month.

Reference. The ideal forest for the construction of a log house is a part of a tree from the root (butt) to the beginning of the crown of a combat pine. There are almost no knots in this area, and the density of the tree is greater than at the top.

To build a reliable and durable log house for a bathhouse with your own hands, select and prepare timber, taking into account our recommendations:

1. Discard trunks with obvious curvature, cracks or rot.
2. Do not take too thin or thick round timber. The diameter of the sawlog should be in the range of 20-35 cm (excluding bark).
3. Try to purchase winter lumber from forestries, as this wood contains more resins that resist decay.
4. Remove the bark from the logs with a special tool - a scraper, it least affects the tree.
5. After debarking, let the trunks dry for 3-4 days, otherwise you will have to draw marking lines on a wet surface, which is very inconvenient.

Sawlog diameter decreases from butt to top

When choosing logs, consider one important feature: the diameter of the trunk necessarily decreases from the butt to the top. The technical name of the phenomenon is taper, ideally it should not exceed 8 mm per 1 meter of running round timber.

Advice. It does not matter when the taper exceeds the specified value. Before cutting down the bath, you need to disassemble the logs into pairs with the same indicator, and during construction, lay them according to the butt - top - butt scheme. An experienced carpenter will tell you in detail about this laying technology in his video:

Tool for the job

Experienced craftsmen can deftly and quickly work with an ax, but even they now use power tools, which greatly facilitate the work in the construction of log structures. The optimal set of a carpenter-builder looks like this:

• chain saw - electric or gasoline;
• ax and hand saw;
• wooden and ordinary hammer;
• electric planer;
• drill;
• chisels of various sizes;
• measuring instruments - tape measure, ruler, plumb line, square and building level.

To mark the trunks, you will also need a special device shown in the photo - a feature (otherwise - a scriber). To make it, you need to take a thick steel wire, sharpen the ends and bend in the form of a compass.

Foundation laying

Log houses are heavy structures, and therefore it is better for them to pour a strip-type concrete foundation. An exception is a mini-bath 3 x 3 m in size, under which you can make brick or block pillars, and then put the first crown on these cabinets. In other cases, it is necessary to mark the contours of the building on the ground and dig a trench 40-50 cm wide along the perimeter. You need to go deep to a stable layer of soil lying 0.5-1.5 m from the surface (depending on the region).

1. Seal the bottom of the trench and make a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick. Compact the sand too.
2. Make and install formwork from wooden panels, whose height should be equal to the level of the future plinth. To prevent the sides from moving apart, use supports made of timber and boards, as shown in the photo.
3. Cover the pit along with the formwork with plastic wrap so that the cement milk does not go into the ground when pouring.
4. From the reinforcement - "corrugated" Ø10-16 mm, tie the frames with cells 100 x 150 mm and place them in the trench. The lower reinforcement belt should be raised above the bottom due to spacers 4-5 cm high.

The pouring is carried out with concrete of a grade not lower than M150, prepared from 3 parts of sand and 5 of the same volumes of crushed stone per 1 measure of Portland cement M400. During the laying process, the concrete mixture is compacted with vibrators, and in their absence, with long steel rods. It will take 4 weeks for the base to harden, the formwork can be removed after 7-9 days.

Advice. In order not to have to chop or longitudinally cut the logs of the first crown and thereby reduce the durability of the structure, make a foundation tape at different levels. How this is implemented in practice, see the following video.

Installation of the first crown

The first step is to protect the wood from soaking and subsequent decay. To do this, lay a waterproofing of two layers of roofing material on the foundation, and treat the trunks with an antiseptic composition. It is also possible to make an additional padding from a bar 50-100 mm thick under the lower tier. Then the most interesting begins - the cutting of the crown crown.

There are several ways to join logs in the corners:

• in the upper or lower bowl;
• the same, with a hidden spike (tail tail);
• in the paw;
• using simple rectangular cutouts (the so-called Russian corner).

The simplest cutting of corners

Reference. Russian cutting methods are listed here, in addition to them, Canadian and Norwegian technology is used, but it is more difficult to perform.

Bowl cutout

The connection with a rectangular groove, shown in the photo, is suitable only for the construction of a barn. Due to direct gaps, even if they are caulked, such an angle will turn out to be cold, which is unacceptable for a bath. Docking "in the paw" is more reliable, but is rarely used by modern carpenters because of the complexity. For beginners, we suggest mastering a relatively simple and “warm” option - cutting into the upper bowl with a hidden spike, otherwise - into a flail.

Before assembling the flashing crown, it is necessary to cut the round timber along the entire length in order to increase the contact area with the foundation. The width of the contact spot should be at least 12 cm. To ensure it, lay the log on a concrete tape and mark it with a line resting at one end on the foundation surface.

Drawing a line with a scriber

To speed up the work, make cross cuts with a chain saw every 10-15 cm, then cut the wood along and cut down the excess with an ax. Make a fine selection with an electric planer, or better with a scraper.

Advice. In the center of the beveled side, try to make a hollow up to 5 mm deep for a good seal. How the master does it, you should watch the video:

Now let's look at how to cut the corner of the crown crown:

1. Lay the trunks in the design position, one on top of the other, and align them horizontally with the help of pads. Mark the contours of the bowl in the upper log with a line, leaning with the second end on the lower one. Its depth is equal to half the diameter of the supporting round timber, which is shown in the diagram.
2. The maximum height of the hidden longitudinal spike is 5 cm. Also mark it before sawing.
3. Using a chainsaw, make several transverse cuts, not reaching the marking lines by 3-5 mm.
4. Cut off the excess wood and clean the edges of the bowl with an ax strictly along the line. Form a spike in the same way, and cut a groove on the counter log.

An important point. During the construction of the log cabin of the bath, the finishing teska is made with an ax or a staple, mechanized processing is used only for the formation of cups and grooves. The fact is that electric planers, grinders and chain saws strongly open wood fibers, where moisture is subsequently absorbed.

When all 4 corners are cut down, the trunks are laid on a foundation with a layer of moss or jute fiber (it is also stuffed into the joints of lumber) and tightly seated in the grooves using a wooden manual rammer. Please note: the connection with a concrete base is not used, the structure is rigidly fixed on the groove-thorn joints and stands confidently due to its decent weight.

Walling

The remaining crowns are mounted on the salary using the same technology - bowls with spikes are cut out at the corners, which cover the logs of the previous tier. After a dense nozzle with a moss lining, an additional connection with wooden dowels is required, they are also dowels.

Note. Traditional technology does not include any of the metal connectors often used by today's builders. Being in the thickness of the tree, the cold metal is covered with condensate, causing rust and accelerated decay of timber.

Moss is the best interventional insulation for a chopped bath

A few words about how to assemble the second and subsequent log crowns:

1. The lower part of the trunks is not hemmed evenly, but in the form of a semicircle in order to clearly cover the previous round timber.
2. When marking, lay the logs in such a way that the centers of all wall elements are on the same vertical.
3. Do the cutting of cups and grooves with an allowance of 8-10 mm for laying the sealant - wild moss, felt or jute.
4. After forming the bowls, try on each barrel in place. If it fits with a gap of more than 5 mm, an adjustment will have to be made. The whole process is shown in more detail in the video:

So that in the process of shrinkage and further operation, the chopped bath does not squint from the horizontal movement of the elements, they must be fastened together with dowels. These are rods carved from dry wood with a diameter of 22-30 mm, hammered into vertical holes after laying each crown. Hole drilling step - 0.8-1 m, depth - at least 2 log diameters. In order not to fall into the previous dowels during subsequent drilling and driving, they should be placed in a checkerboard pattern.

Vertical connection of crowns with dowels

When you need to grow a log in length, use one of two connection methods - a root tenon and a dovetail. In the first case, the vertical groove and the spike at the end of the log are rectangular in shape, and in the second case, they are trapezoidal, which is shown in the photo. When joining the elements of the outer walls, a clearance of 8 mm must be provided for the sealing packing.

Splicing with root tenon (left) and dovetail (right)

An important point. After laying the connected trunks into the wall of the log house, the joint must be shingled on both sides.

The log walls of the bath are covered from above with a gable roof. It is easier to assemble it from bars and boards, which is described in detail. You can make a truss system from logs, but this process is much more complicated.

Pit of openings

There are 2 ways of edging door and window openings:

1. Into the deck. In this case, a spike measuring 5 x 5 cm is formed along the perimeter of the opening, on which the casing is subsequently attached.
2. With a mortgage bar. A groove is cut along the ends of the logs, where a mortgage beam is then installed for mounting the pigtail.

The first option is more expensive and time-consuming - shortening the logs for sawing out the spike must be provided for even at the construction stage of the bath. The casing box is made with an internal groove, which is mounted on the finished crest. Along the perimeter, the pigtail is sealed with the same material that was used for interventional insulation (caulking).

The second method is implemented after the construction of the log house by cutting a groove in the ends of the round timber. Then a mortgage beam is hammered into it, forming the same spike. The further procedure for installing the box is repeated, as shown in the diagram.

Conclusion

If, in the process of building a log house with your own hands, you follow the above technology and work without haste, then you will surely get a solid and strong bathhouse that will last for decades. But do not rush to put the building into operation - the log structure needs to stand for at least 1 year to shrink. After that, you can do the caulking of the joints and the internal arrangement of the bath rooms.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

Related posts:

The main distinguishing characteristic of a log house is the way in which the logs are connected to each other. There are two main ways: in the "paw" and in the "bowl". Let us consider in detail the first option for creating a wooden base for the house (and you can find a description of the second one here).

What is a log house in the "paw"?

Everything is quite simple: this is a log house in which the ends of the logs do not protrude from the wall, that is, they form an ordinary angle like brickwork.

At the same time, nothing sticks out of the building, the house (bath) has a regular quadrangular (as a rule) shape.

To better understand what's what, watch the video below - everything is shown clearly there, at the same time you can learn some techniques for working with logs using a chainsaw. This can also come in handy if you want to build your own wooden house, with your own hands, and are not going to buy a finished product.

If you want to buy the basis of the future building - go to the bottom of this page, where we are talking about the comparative advantages, features of this type of log cabins.

Video felling in the "paw"

As you can see, there are no particular difficulties in this method, an experienced worker will prepare the end of the log for laying in just a minute or two (see the duration of the video).

Pros and cons of the method

It cannot be said that the two methods differ in performance very much. In fact, the connection method does not affect the quality and properties of the structure so much. Noise insulation and the ability to retain heat are almost identical for houses cut down using different technologies.

Nevertheless, there are certain disadvantages and advantages of cutting into a castle (the video clearly shows that exactly the semblance of a castle is made of wood).

They are due, firstly, to the aesthetic properties of the finished structure, and secondly, to the fact that for the connection "in the paw" it is not necessary to precisely fit the logs to size; canting is also carried out less accurately.

Advantages

• Comparatively low cost (due to lower requirements for the ratio of log sizes, work is completed faster, less material is used for the structure).
• (somewhat debatable) Variety of possibilities for interior and exterior decoration. The inner wall is hewn to compensate for the unevenness of individual logs, it can be finished in different ways. The absence of log ends also allows you to finish the facade with a variety of materials, for example,.

disadvantages

• Interior and exterior decoration is simply necessary, otherwise the house will look sloppy (due to all the same differences in size). And this, in turn, is an additional cost.
• The corners of the house are worse protected from moisture (and, therefore, from rotting).
• This design is considered less stable (which, however, is not very important for small houses).
• It is difficult to create an aesthetically verified image of an old Russian hut (both outside and in the interior).

The construction of wooden houses and baths is gaining unprecedented popularity. This is due to the environmental friendliness and safety of wood, as well as the availability of assembling wooden structures.

Modern felling of log cabins is represented by both the simplest and technologically sophisticated methods that provide maximum protection of the finished log cabin from the adverse effects of the environment.

The final stage of wooden construction is the assembly of the frame. Often, for the construction of wall structures, rounded logs are used, which are securely interconnected with the help of special spikes and grooves.

Overview of felling methods

To understand how to properly cut a log house, you need to choose the most appropriate way to join the lumber.

The most popular felling technologies are Russian, Canadian, Swedish, Finnish and Norwegian. For each of them, various options for joining logs can be used.

Canadian

Cutting into the Canadian bowl is performed on round logs and has a number of advantages:

• Increases the service life of lumber.
• Provides additional protection for the log house from moisture penetration at the inner corners.
• Reduces heat loss.
• Maintains an optimal indoor climate.
• Simplifies in the channel provided for it.

Russian

Russian felling is one of the most demanded and popular types of construction of wooden houses. Often, it is performed using a round chopped log.

Such material is resistant to increased moisture, mold and fungus infection. The fastening of logs according to Russian technology is carried out in 2 ways - in the paw and in the oblo.

Finnish

For the construction of a wooden structure according to Finnish technology, it is recommended to use round timber and timber prepared from coniferous trees. The preparation of material using Finnish technology is similar to the previous version. The insulating material is laid tightly and deep between the logs, so it is absolutely invisible from the outside.

Norwegian

Norwegian technology involves the use of a log carriage with an oval section. Otherwise, this technology is carried out similarly to the Canadian version. However, the walls with this option for preparing logs are flat, which allows you to effectively save space, especially in small buildings.

Swedish

Visually, the Swedish technology differs from all others in the appearance of the ends obtained. In this case, the crowns are hewn in the form of hexagons. The bowl is also shaped like a ½ hex, which simplifies the process of stacking crowns. The Swedish felling is distinguished by the complexity of installation and high financial investments.

How to properly cut any type of log house in order to get a practical and durable structure at the end? This process involves sawing or cutting out special corner joints and longitudinal grooves on a beam or log for reliable installation of crowns. This can be done in several ways.

The method of felling "in oblo"

Oblo felling is the easiest and most affordable option for the construction of various types of log cabins, which is done manually. The process of preparing building material does not require large time and labor costs.

A similar method involves the removal of logs around the corners of the log house at a distance of up to 25 cm, which leads to a reduction in the size of the finished structure from all sides. For this reason, it has another name - felling with the remainder.

This type of construction provides additional strength to the structure, and the protruding elements protect the corners of the log house from damage and destruction.

The bowl is made in the form of a semicircle with a smooth surface and is not equipped with locks. To prevent possible rotting of logs, it is recommended to carry out timely outside and inside.

Cutting method "into a bowl"

Chopping into a bowl - an intermediate option between an okhlop and a haul, is performed in half a tree, while the chopped bowl can be placed up or down.

The arrangement of logs with bowls down is not only convenient, but also practical. This will prevent the accumulation of excess moisture in the cups, protect the joints from rotting. The preparation of logs with bowls down is often referred to as “in clapping” due to the fact that the upper structural element with a bowl is put on the lower one, as if slamming it.

This option of preparing logs eliminates the formation of unwanted voids in the joints between the crowns.

Many novice craftsmen may wonder how to cut a log house into a bowl or thicket correctly? All work is carried out in the following order:

• The future log cabin is marked and the logs are prepared in accordance with the required parameters. Each whip is numbered.
• The size of the bowl should be equal to ½ of the thickness of the log. Stepping back from the edge of 22 cm, markings are applied with a pencil or nail.
• Processing is carried out with a chainsaw or a cleaver to obtain even and smooth edges of the bowl.
• A spike for the bowl is made in the lower log, a groove is made in the upper log. During the assembly process, insulation is laid between the individual elements. The assembly of the crowns is done with the bowl down. This is required in order to prevent moisture from entering the joints at full.

The method of cutting "in the paw"

Felling involves stacking logs in such a way that they do not extend beyond the outer corners. This method requires serious preparation and adherence to the technology of laying individual elements.

Reliable connection of the crowns is ensured by the presence of double locks in the corners of the structure. Inaccuracies in the installation of logs can lead to the appearance of cracks and gaps in the finished structure, which in the future is fraught with large heat losses.

To improve thermal conductivity in the corners of the log house when using this processing method, it is recommended to carry out additional insulation and outer skin.

The method of processing "in the paw" provides an increase in the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises while maintaining the length of the log used.

Work on the construction of a log house by this method is carried out in the following order: first, the lower crowns are laid, then the wooden base for the floor is mounted, then the flooring is laid and the construction of wall structures continues.

The felling of a log house can be done by hand, having prepared high-quality lumber and choosing the most appropriate laying technology. The finished log house is durable, practical and not whimsical in care, so it can stand for more than a dozen years.

Today, wooden buildings are becoming increasingly popular. But, since hiring qualified builders to build a wooden house is not a cheap pleasure, many take up the construction of a log house on their own, however, without sufficient knowledge and skills, they end up not getting the result they expected. To successfully complete such work, you need to at least understand how to chop a log house into a paw and how - into a bowl.

Scheme of cutting a log house into a paw.

Advantages and disadvantages of felling in the paw

A feature of forcing a log house into a paw is that the ends of the logs do not enter the corners of the building under construction. The main advantage of this method is the relative ease of cutting grooves compared to cutting into a bowl. Not the last role in the popularity of this cutting method is played by the fact that when using it, timber or round timber is used to its full length, without residue, which saves on material.

Scheme of felling in a paw with a tooth.

However, this cutting method also has significant disadvantages. The log cabins driven out in this way are less stable. In addition, their corners turn out to be cold, poorly retaining heat inside the building. Therefore, for residential buildings cut into the paw, additional insulation is required.

However, this minus can be easily turned into a plus: it is enough to cover the inner surface of the house with beautiful finishing materials, for example, siding, and the problem will be eliminated. Moreover, such a finish will also look quite impressive. For a log house made into a bowl, with protruding ends of the corners, such a finish is not possible.

Logging

Despite the relative ease of making grooves, it is possible to cut a log house into a paw with high quality only if the ends of the logs or timber are correctly marked. When using timber, it is always better to take material of the same thickness, and the thicker the timber, the fewer connecting grooves in the corners, respectively, such a house will become warmer. When cutting a log house from logs, it is always necessary to take a log with an end face of a smaller thickness for a sample and adjust the rest along it.

For marking, it is much more convenient to make special templates than to work with each end separately. Such templates are made of thick cardboard, and marking with their help is carried out simply by applying them to the ends of the logs.

For cutting a log house you will need tools:

Cutting the corners of the walls "in the paw" and the order of its marking.

• saw;
• axe;
• bit;
• plane;
• roulette;
• level;
• plumb;
• a hammer;
• mallet.

With a planer, you need to completely grind that side of the logs or timber, which will fit inside the room. The opposite side is processed only at the ends, the processed length of the sections should be in the range from 2 to 2.5 log diameters. The two remaining sides are equal at the ends by 1-1.5 log diameters each.

Paw cutting technique

To chop a log house always begins with the laying of the first, so-called crown crown. On the selected site, 2 logs are laid parallel to each other, on the ends of which the following 2 are placed at right angles. The result is a square that is adjusted in level into a single plane.

At the ends, markings are made and grooves are made for planting logs. The total depth of the groove should not exceed half the thickness of the log.

For the device of the overlay crown, you should always choose the thickest logs.

Indeed, the quality and reliability of the entire future log house largely depend on how correctly and evenly it will be laid out.

A log is placed on top of the groove made, in which the upper part is prepared for laying the next log. The grooves must be marked and prepared in such a way that when laying the next crown, it fits into the prepared groove as accurately as possible. And this applies not only to the accuracy of the crown entering the socket, but also to the constant control of both horizontal and vertical stacking of the crowns.

When forcing a log house into a paw, the technique for laying crowns from timber and logs is somewhat different. A wooden beam with even edges is simply installed with a crown on the crown. If you cut a log house from logs, then the upper crown has to be laid on the rounded surface of the lower one.

To make the crowns fit tighter, a longitudinal groove is made in the lower part of the upper crown along its entire length. Then the upper crown is placed in a log house and it is observed how it fits to the lower one. If the tightness of the fit is insufficient, the upper crown is removed, the groove is corrected and the entire laying procedure is repeated from the beginning. And only having achieved that the crowns fit snugly against each other, you can move on to the next crown.

Often, due to the inexperience of the carpenter, the “paws” in the corners cannot be fitted tightly enough, and gaps appear between them. If these slots cannot be removed with an ax, then they must be eliminated by driving a wooden wedge of suitable thickness and width into the slot. But it is better to try to do without such connections.

Crown fixation

When cutting a log into a paw, additional fixation of the crowns is much more important than when cutting into a bowl. Fixing logs when cutting into a paw is performed in two ways: using plug-in or indigenous spikes. The first is simpler in execution, with the second, the logs are fixed more securely.

The first option provides for the device in the "paws" of 2 connected crowns of a vertical hole Ø 3-4 cm. A wooden stake of the same diameter is driven into these holes. In each paw, with the exception of the crown crowns, two such straight spikes are obtained, and they are inserted in a checkerboard pattern so as not to fall with one wooden peg on another. To enhance the overall rigidity of the structure, straight spikes are often driven in along the entire length of the crowns in increments of 1.5-2 m.

Experienced carpenters, in order to give greater strength to the corner joint, when cutting a log house into a paw, often arrange a special spike at the junction of the crowns, called the “root”. It is arranged in each underlying crown and looks like a small (from 2 to 4 cm, depending on the thickness of the log) protrusion. There is an unwritten rule that the root tenon area should be a quarter of the total working area of ​​​​the paw. Such a protrusion is always arranged from the side of the inner corner, and a groove of the same shape and depth is made on the crown superimposed on top.

If theoretically you know everything about how to cut a log house in a paw, but you do not have enough practical experience, then before proceeding directly to cutting a log house, it is better to play it safe and perform a test felling on 2-3 logs. If you manage to connect them into a paw without visible gaps, then you can always use them for a log house. Well, if it doesn’t work out the first time, then you will have a clear opportunity to see, analyze the reasons for the failure and subsequently perform the felling of the log house correctly.