Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house with foam. How to insulate a wooden ceiling in a house? Proper insulation of a wooden ceiling in a private house

A house built of wood is initially warm in itself.

The thermal conductivity of wood is very low and all the heat that is inside a wooden house does not go outside.

In turn, all the cold that is outside does not penetrate inside.

However, there are also heat losses in a wooden house.

As you know, up to 45% of heat is lost through the roof.

That's a lot!

Much less is lost through doors and windows.

And in order for the heat transfer through the ceiling and roof to become minimal, the ceiling in the house should be insulated.

If there is a residential attic under the roof slopes, then the attic ceiling should be insulated.

If there is a cold attic, then the ceiling in the house is insulated.

And it is better, if funds allow, to insulate both.

In a wooden house, the floor consists of wooden logs, beams or beams, which are installed at the same distance from each other.

Ceiling and floor boards are nailed to beams or beams.

As a result, a fairly decent space is formed between the beams.

One of the first stages of ceiling insulation in a wooden house is the laying of various thermal insulation in this particular place.

It is necessary to carefully insulate the ceiling from the inside of the room in order to minimize heat loss.

To insulate the ceiling in wooden houses, the following materials are used:

• expanded clay;
• sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam.

Each of these types of heaters has a large number of advantages.

And they also have disadvantages.

There is no general ceiling insulation technology.

Each material has its own technology.

So let's figure out how we can make high-quality insulation.

One of the most popular building materials used today for insulation is bulk material - expanded clay and sawdust.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a porous material with a cellular structure.

It usually looks like crushed stone or gravel.

Expanded clay is obtained by firing clay fusible rocks, which swell when heated to 1050 - 1300 degrees.

The quality of expanded clay depends on its size, strength and bulk density.

Since clay is used for the production of expanded clay, it can be safely called an environmentally friendly material.

The advantages of expanded clay include:

• light weight;
• high soundproof and heat-insulating characteristics;
• fire resistance;
• strength;
• resistance to decay and aggressive chemical environments.

Since there are many raw materials for the production of expanded clay and the cost of equipment for its production is low, the material itself is inexpensive.

For example, expanded clay M200 - 450 in bulk costs from 980 rubles per cubic meter with delivery.

The technology of insulation using expanded clay is relatively simple.

You do not need special professional knowledge.

This is exactly the option when the more the better.

Before you start pouring expanded clay on the floor of the attic (it is also the ceiling of the upper floor), it is necessary to lay steam and waterproofing.

Some developers traditionally use roofing material for these purposes, but it is better not to do this.

Since all ecological cleanliness will disappear completely.

As part of the roofing material there is tar.

And he, especially in summer, releases a huge amount of substances harmful to humans.

It is best to use modern materials such as "Izospan" series B or C.

It is inexpensive.

If you want to save as much as possible, you can use aluminum foil or standard plastic wrap.

1. Roll out a roll of plastic wrap and cut into strips. First you need to measure the required length of the strip and the width between the beams. The width of the film must be greater than the distance between the beams. 10 cm will be enough.
2. The waterproofing is laid so that an overlap of about 20 centimeters is formed on the walls and edges of the beams. In order for the quality of the coating to be high, the seams should be carefully glued with a special tape.
3. If nothing was at hand, except for the roofing material, and it is necessary to lay it, then rubber-bitumen mastic is used to glue the joints. If aluminum foil is used, then foil-based adhesive tape is used.
4. In the same way, chimney pipes and rafters are insulated.
5. The canvas is firmly fixed with a construction stapler and masking tape.
6. A layer of pre-crushed clay is laid on the laid layer of vapor barrier.
7. Expanded clay should be purchased in two fractions: large and small. They are mixed and fall asleep between the beams. Material of different sizes makes the insulation layer more dense.
8. A cement-sand screed is arranged over the expanded clay, which protects the heat-insulating package from damage.

If there is a simple attic under the roof, then you can stop there.

If it is an attic, then a boardwalk or other covering is laid on top of the beams.

Sawdust

Sawdust is the cheapest material that can be used for insulation.

It is also an environmentally friendly natural material.

In order to use sawdust as a ceiling insulation, it is necessary to prepare a special solution.

For insulation, you should not purchase any sawdust.

They should be:

• aged for at least one year;
• dry;
• uninfected with a fungus;
• fraction should be average.

We prepare the solution.

The recipe for this is.

We take:

• sawdust - 10 medium buckets;
• cement - 1 bucket;
• slaked lime - 0.5 buckets;
• antiseptic - copper sulfate, borax;
• water.

Now you should carefully mix the cement, sawdust and lime.

In water, dilute the antiseptic and mix everything thoroughly.

In order to determine whether the sawdust solution is ready or not, you need to take the mixture with your hand and squeeze it.

Moisture should not be released from the mixture, and when the palm is unclenched, the lump should not crumble.

We lay the solution in the following sequence:

1. We pre-mount a layer of vapor and waterproofing. How this is done is described in detail in the part about expanded clay. We do everything exactly the same.
2. We evenly distribute the cement-sawdust mixture over the surface.
3. The solution is slightly tamped. The thickness of the layer should be approximately 25-30 cm.

In order for the heat insulator to gain the properties we need, 14 days must pass.

When the solution is completely ready, a crunch is heard when walking on it, but the sawdust does not bend.

Ideally, warming is best done in the warm season.

Then the solution dries faster and becomes more durable.

Mineral wool

Mineral fiber or basalt wool is one of the traditional thermal insulation materials.

The level of thermal conductivity of this material is very low.

It is non-toxic.

It is very easy to mount it in place.

But, compared with sawdust or expanded clay, it has one drawback: high cost.

The range of mineral wool on the Russian building materials market is very wide.

When laying mineral wool, safety rules must be observed.

The whole problem is that during the laying process, small particles can separate from the main block and enter the lungs and skin.

Therefore, you should use overalls, gloves and wear a respirator.

The technological scheme for laying basalt wool is as follows:

• the surface on which the material is laid should be cleaned as much as possible from all kinds of debris, dirt and dust;
• we lay a layer of vapor and waterproofing on a clean surface (usually glassine is used for this);
• in places of overlap, waterproofing strips should be glued;
• the edges of the material are wrapped on beams, stitched with a stapler and glued with adhesive tape;
• basalt wool is tightly laid on glassine so that there are no gaps between the beams and the ends of the waterproofing block;
• in order for the thermal insulation to work more efficiently, a second layer of mineral wool is laid on top of the first layer (the last layer is applied to all cracks in the floor and beams so that heat does not escape through the attic);
• if during installation there are gaps that cannot be avoided, then they are blown out with mounting foam;
• another layer of vapor barrier is placed on top of the cotton wool, on top of which a screed is arranged;
• chipboard, boards or any other material is laid on the screed.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is a heat-insulating material that is obtained by foaming polymers at high temperatures while simultaneously filling them with natural gas.

He has a lot of positive qualities:

• the material weighs very little;
• it is very convenient and simple to mount it;
• the foam plate is very easy to cut and fix to the right place;
• the thermal conductivity of the foam is very low;
• exceptional moisture resistance;
• excellent soundproofing properties;
• the material does not rot or decompose;
• the price of foam makes it very affordable.

The insulation of the ceiling of a wooden house with foam plastic from the outside (from the side of the attic) is carried out in the same way as with mineral wool.

Everything is repeated one to one, only instead of basalt wool, foam plates are used in rolls.

And when performing insulation of the ceiling from the inside, the foam is unmatched.

We insulate the ceiling of a wooden house from the inside

Insulating the ceiling from the inside is more difficult than from the outside.

Outside, the material can be put between the rafters and calmly sew everything up.

From the inside, everything has to be attached above the head to the bottom of the rafters.

And this is very difficult.

It all starts with fixing the vapor barrier.

Secure it with a construction stapler.

Then foam sheets are taken and glued to the vapor barrier.

The third layer is again a vapor barrier.

Styrofoam sheets are located between the vapor barrier layers.

Finishing - hemming the ceiling with boards.

The process is quite complicated, since all work is carried out with arms extended above the head, but the effectiveness of such thermal insulation is very high.

And ideally, the ceiling of a wooden house should be insulated both from the inside and outside.

Then your costs for maintaining a comfortable temperature in the house will be minimized.

The insulation should be laid as tightly as possible.

This is especially true for foam.

If gaps remain between the plates, then cold bridges will appear and all your insulation work will come to naught.

If the insulation is done from the inside, then one layer of foam 5 cm thick will suffice.

If the insulation is performed from the outside, then the foam can be laid in several layers.

If the attic is planned to be heated, then you should remember about the ventilation gap, otherwise condensate will begin to settle and dampness and mold will appear in the room.

As you can see, in principle, there is nothing complicated in insulating the ceiling.

Video about the insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house:

Of course, ideally, such work should be carried out during the construction of the house, and not later.

In contact with

In accordance with the laws of physics, air rises when heated, so insulating the ceiling in a house with a cold roof is not a way to get rid of extra money, but a decision dictated by expediency. If you live in a private house, then you have directly encountered the problem of a cold ceiling in the room above which the attic is located. Usually it is not heated, and its own thermal insulation is minimal to ensure normal temperatures during the cold season. As a result, there is a source of constant heat leakage above the living room.

You can insulate the ceiling in a private house from the inside or outside. Both options have their own advantages and disadvantages, the use of which is dictated by rationality, circumstances, technical nuances and other significant characteristics.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside with roll material

Why insulate ceilings in private homes

Laying insulating material that is optimal for a particular building will provide a thermal barrier between the room and the attic. It will prevent the cooling of heated air, its exit through microcracks in concrete or natural pores in a wooden ceiling, raise the overall temperature in the room, protect ceilings and walls from freezing and save a considerable amount that is regularly spent on heating.

Features of ceiling insulation in a wooden house

When working with wooden buildings, the final weight of the insulating layer should be given priority. Excessively high mass increases the likelihood of collapse or cracking in the ceiling.

Some try to insulate the ceiling in a private house with a cold roof with a decrease in the insulation layer, but work standards require a certain value for each region in accordance with temperature and humidity indicators. With a decrease in thickness, the heat-insulating properties decrease, and the meaning of laying the insulation disappears.

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house from the inside

List of materials used for insulation

For thermal insulation, installers use materials that are divided into four large groups:

bulk- expanded clay, dry sawdust, ecowool;

rolled- mineral wool and its varieties from other materials;

slab- sheets of compacted mineral wool, expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), cork plates;

sprayed / poured- penoizol.

When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a wooden house, you need to know which one has the best insulating properties. To do this, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors that affect the final result:

external or internal installation;

weather conditions and average annual temperature in a particular area, affecting the thickness of the layer;

the need and list of additional work;

time spent and project budget.

The combination of these features will indicate the rationality of using one or another type of thermal insulation.

In the photo, a bulk version of the ceiling insulation from the outside - expanded clay thermal insulation

External insulation

In most cases, insulating the ceiling in a house from the outside is a more convenient way to prevent heat from escaping. It allows you to expand the list of used insulating materials, reduce the time spent on work and, in comparison with internal installation, reduce the cost of thermal insulation when insulating a house with finishing.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

There are several options for insulating the ceiling from the outside:

The cheapest among all bulk insulator options. Due to the penny cost of the material and minimal additional costs, the total cost of the work is the lowest among those described.

There are certain requirements for sawdust.

A minimum moisture content is required, otherwise mold will begin to form over time. For this, the material is aged in a dry room for about a year before use.

The sawdust is mixed with flame retardants to reduce flammability.

Combining with antiseptics, fungicides and slaked lime will prevent the appearance of fungus and protect against rodents.

Insulation of the ceiling in the house with sawdust is done in two ways. In the first, they are mixed with dry cement, followed by the addition of a small amount of water. Cement acts as a connecting material. The second method involves dry filling sawdust without adding a connector, but due to the natural shrinkage of the material and the need for regular addition, it is not popular.

Ceiling insulated with sawdust

Expanded clay as a heater

The second most commonly used bulk material for insulation. Among its advantages:

acceptable price;

availability;

thermal insulation properties are above average.

However, the application has a number of limitations:

the own weight of expanded clay does not allow it to be used on thin wooden ceilings; concrete ceilings are desirable.

the material has low moisture resistance, therefore, a vapor barrier is necessarily laid in the first layer.

to ensure high-quality heat preservation, a layer of more than 20 cm thick will be needed (in cold regions of the country it is increased to 50 cm).

Using expanded clay, experts use a mixture of coarse and fine fractions to ensure a high percentage of empty space filling. From above, a layer of material is poured with a cement mortar 5–10 cm thick, which provides protection from moisture and serves as a floor covering.

Ceiling insulation from the outside with expanded clay

Ecowool

Modern insulation for the ceiling of the house, made from recycled cellulose, with the addition of flame retardants for fire resistance and boric acid, which serves as a protection against fungus and harmful microorganisms. The main advantages of the material:

high-quality coverage of the entire floor space, due to the low weight of individual parts, cotton wool is easily blown into all cracks;

the composition does not contain compounds harmful to humans;

low material consumption to ensure reliable thermal insulation.

The disadvantages include:

low resistance to moisture, you will have to spend money on laying a vapor barrier;

hand-made installation without special equipment is impossible or will be of low quality;

ecowool is subject to shrinkage, so it will need to be laid with a margin of about 15%;

if crushed, it loses its thermal insulation qualities, therefore it is necessary to cover the ecowool with a layer of boards to enable movement in the attic.

Advice! Experts do not recommend using the material close to chimneys and other sources of high temperature, despite the addition of flame retardants to the composition. If this is not possible, then it will be necessary to make an additional fence of a fire-resistant coating that reflects heat.

Mineral wool as a heater

Warming the ceiling in a wooden house with mineral wool has several advantages:

low cost of the material;

high laying speed;

good thermal insulation properties.

Not without cons:

cotton wool shrinkage is 15-20%, so experts advise taking the appropriate stock.

the material is not moisture resistant and quickly absorbs water, which immediately increases its thermal conductivity. You will need to lay an additional layer of waterproofing.

mineral wool cannot be crushed, the impermeability of the thermal barrier depends to a large extent on the air contained between the fibers, so you will have to spend money on laying the outer covering so that you can move freely in the attic.

For insulation with mineral wool, workers must install wooden logs. They will allow you to delimit the space into sectors and will become the basis of the future flooring.

In the photo, the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool

Penoizol insulation

Depending on the type of installation, penoizol is sprayed or poured. But in order to use this material, you will need to contact a specialized company, since specific equipment is used during the work, plus, protective suits for workers and professional skills are needed.

The advantages include:

high degree of penetration into all cracks and microcracks;

incombustibility;

environmental safety for humans;

not of interest to rodents;

the substance contains a large number of air bubbles, which provide high-quality insulation.

The disadvantages include the high cost and fragility of the material, which does not independently restore its shape in case of mechanical damage.

Video description

Which insulation divides heat better, look at the video:

Advice! When working with penoizol, it is recommended to wait for complete solidification, it has a slight shrinkage, which will have to be replenished in order to prevent the formation of voids.

The process of thermal insulation of the ceiling with foam insulation

Internal insulation

A residential attic, a house for several owners, the presence of utilities in the attic and other situations that make external insulation impossible require thermal insulation from the inside of the room. Bulk materials are not used for obvious reasons.

Video description

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside, see the video:

Sheet, roll or sprayed materials are used. When choosing insulation for the ceiling in a private house, you should pay attention to polystyrene foam boards or compressed mineral wool. They have the best ratio in the price / quality / speed category. Do not forget about penoizol, which will be an excellent option when increasing the budget.

The process of insulating the ceiling from the inside with foam

Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside with polystyrene boards

What to choose - external or internal insulation

The choice between these types of work is based on a combination of factors:

in the absence of finishing, they are equal in terms of the degree of thermal insulation;

if the repair of the room is completed, then you will have to remove the ceiling covering, which will increase the cost and time of work;

laying from the inside reduces the shrinkage of the material, but increases the thickness of the ceiling, reducing the total volume of the room;

with internal insulation, the ceiling overlap is not protected from low temperatures;

external insulation allows the use of a wider range of heat insulators.

Before you insulate the ceiling in a private house, you need to carefully calculate all the pros and cons, only after that you can make an unambiguous decision, which is better to use in your case.

Conclusion

When choosing a particular material for ceiling insulation, it is always best to seek professional help. Every business has its pitfalls and stumbling upon them, relying on your own strength, is a waste of time and money. It is better to make repairs once, and get a guaranteed high-quality result - this will save you from unnecessary expenses and provide the house with heat for many years to come.

Houses made of rounded wood or natural timber are rightfully considered the most comfortable. Their high popularity is explained, first of all, by the naturalness of the material and good protective characteristics.

But all types of one-story buildings are characterized by significant losses through ceiling structures. Therefore, you have to fight for warmth and comfort in a wooden private house. A correctly chosen method and a well-thought-out insulation scheme are the main components of success in this fight.

Methods of thermal insulation of wooden ceiling structures

Numerous technologies for insulating ceilings in wooden houses are divided into two groups according to the place of installation of the insulation:

• from the residential premises (from the inside);
• from the attic (outside).

Both approaches have their merits and demerits. So, insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house from the inside will save money, but will reduce the usable volume of residential premises, and the insulation laid outside will require additional protection against mechanical damage and more powerful hydro and vapor barrier, which will entail an increase in the cost of insulation.

In the classic version, the heat-insulating layer has the following structure:

• external vapor barrier;
• insulating material;
• crate;
• internal vapor barrier;
• sheathing.

How to insulate the ceiling?

All materials that can be used to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house are divided into three groups:

• loose;
• soft;
• solid.

The first group is used only for external insulation. The other two are used in both methods.
The most popular representatives of each of the groups, respectively, are:

• sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam.

The easiest way to insulate is to finish the ceiling from the inside with foam. Its advantages include:

• relatively low cost of the material;
• light weight;
• unique vapor and moisture repellent properties;
• ease of installation;
• environmental friendliness.

Stages of work

First, a waterproofing layer is attached to the false ceiling between the beams. To do this, you can use glassine, plastic wrap.

Foam boards are fixed on top of the waterproofing with a special glue. After applying the adhesive to the insulation, wait 1-2 minutes and press it firmly against the ceiling. Plates are mounted end-to-end. If there are gaps between the heat-insulating products, they are sealed with mounting foam. It is better to additionally fix the insulation on the surface using self-tapping screws with washers of large diameter (10-14 mm.).

After installing the plates, a layer of glassine or other vapor barrier material is laid again. The whole process is completed by sheathing and decorative finishing of ceiling structures.

Modern industry produces foam sheets of various colors and textures. The front surface may contain an abstract pattern, which, if properly selected, will enrich the interior of the room.

Sawdust

Wood sawdust is a natural material and has proven itself for thermal protection of wooden houses. This technology is somewhat more complicated than foam pasting. The main difficulty lies in the preparation, or rather, the manufacture of insulation, which is a cement-sawdust mixture.

Preparation of the composition

It is better to use medium-sized chips. Tirsa for insulation is not suitable. It contains very little air. Sawdust should not be fresh. Raw materials are treated with antiseptic and antifungal compounds. The simplest solution to this problem is to soak wood chips in a solution of copper sulphate, after which it should be thoroughly dried.

The required volume of sawdust is equal to the planned volume of the insulation layer, the recommended thickness of which is 20 centimeters.

The process of preparing a cement-sawdust mixture consists of the following steps:

• in a spacious container (a trough with sides of 25-30 cm), “cement milk” is prepared by mixing water with cement in a ratio of ten to one, and mix thoroughly;
• sawdust is added to the resulting mixture, which, during the mixing process, should be evenly covered with a layer of solution.

Surface preparation

Before proceeding with the manufacture of insulation, you should prepare the area for its application. This preparation includes the following steps:

• dismantling of the attic floor;
• cleaning the space between the lags from debris and other foreign objects;
• processing of all available wooden floor structures with antifungal and antiseptic agents;
• laying a vapor barrier carpet (as insulation, you can use a dense polyethylene film overlapped on the logs).

Application of insulation

Further, the manufactured cement-sawdust mixture is scattered over the floor area and lightly rammed. Insulation must be evenly distributed between the floor joists. After complete drying, it will be possible to walk on the resulting coating.

One of the main advantages of this method of ceiling insulation is the low cost of materials. First of all, this applies to sawdust, which, having tried, can be purchased for free.

Mineral wool

A popular way to insulate a wooden ceiling with mineral wool. In terms of its thermal insulation characteristics, this material is superior to polystyrene. The installation process is relatively simple.

Vapor barrier layer

A vapor barrier is laid on the outer surface of the ceiling, freed from the coating, cleaned of debris and foreign objects. As with sawdust, thick plastic wrap will work.

Install it with an overlap of about 10 cm. The seams are glued with tape.

Insulation installation

Mineral wool is produced in slabs and rolls. When using rolled material, cotton wool is unwound along the beams.

The second layer of insulation is laid in the opposite direction, covering the beams and joint areas.

For additional fixation of the insulation strips, you can use nails, the heads of which should be slightly "drowned" in the top layer of the material.

Waterproofing

One of the few drawbacks of mineral wool, but quite significant, is its hygroscopicity. It is very easily impregnated with moisture, which has an extremely negative effect on its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, the insulation layer must have reliable external waterproofing.

Lay it on top of the mineral wool overlap with gluing the seams.

Finishing layer

If the attic is not in use, then a cement-sand screed can be made over the insulation structure. When arranging residential attics, floor boards or laminate are installed.

Warming the ceiling of a private house is a relatively simple process. The performance of these works does not require special skills. With the desire and knowledge of the main technological points, everyone is able to cope with this task on their own.

The house must be warm. It is unlikely that there will be a person who will argue with this statement. But in order for the house to be warm, it is not enough just to heat it, you also need to competently keep the heat. And since 30% of the heat goes through the roof, the insulation of the ceiling can be called one of the most important stages in the insulation of the house, especially in cases where it is made of wood.

The wooden ceiling can be insulated both from the inside of the room (although in this case its height will decrease significantly) and from the outside (that is, from the side of the attic). We will consider the most popular options for insulation, so you can certainly choose the one that best suits you. So, we warm the wooden ceiling on our own.

Insulation of a wooden ceiling with sawdust

Let's start with the oldest, but from this no less effective method, namely, with the insulation of the ceiling with sawdust. This simple and affordable thermal insulation material allows you to insulate the ceiling simply and, importantly, very cheaply. To do this, you will need sawdust, a little cement and waterproofing material glassine (in its absence, you can use ordinary plastic wrap).

Sawdust is a simple and affordable material

Before describing the technology of insulation with sawdust, it is necessary to say a few words about the requirements for raw materials:

• Sawdust should be large enough. Small "tyrsa" has a rather high thermal conductivity and, accordingly, is not suitable for insulation;
• Sawdust must be well dried;
• Sawdust must be carefully treated with antifungal agents;
• It is better to use sawdust that is at least one year old.

The procedure for carrying out work on the insulation of the ceiling with sawdust is as follows:

To prepare a solution for 5 square meters of area, you will need 20 buckets of sawdust, 3 buckets of water and 0.3 buckets of cement. We dissolve the cement in water, add sawdust there and mix thoroughly. As a result, all sawdust should be painted in a uniform gray color.

Sawdust based mortar

• The finished mixture is laid between the lags with a layer of at least 20 centimeters.

After the mortar dries, the sawdust coating will become hard enough so that it can be walked on if necessary.

The use of mineral wool

Mineral wool is one of the most popular insulation materials and is naturally suitable for insulating a wooden attic.

Lay carefully without gaps

Working with it is very simple: rolls of cotton wool must be rolled out in the space between the lags previously covered with a layer of glassine (if there was a floor covering in the attic, then it must be removed, as in the previous case).

Try to lay the cotton wool without gaps, as a sufficiently large amount of heat will escape through them.

To fix cotton mats, it is necessary to drive in nails with large caps along their edges at a distance of approximately 1 meter from each other and stretch a fixing cord diagonally between them.

Ceiling insulation with foam

Styrofoam is the lightest heat-insulating material. Its relatively small thickness makes it possible to use foam for both external and internal insulation of the ceiling.

To improve thermal insulation, glue the joints with tape

The foam insulation technology is quite simple:

• We lay a layer of glassine on the entire surface of the ceiling. If the insulation is made from the inside, glassine can be fixed with a construction stapler;
• We stuff guide rails on glassine. When insulating from the side of the attic, this stage can be skipped - the role of the rails will be performed by logs;

If in the future you are going to finish the ceiling with drywall, then instead of rails it is better to use aluminum profiles on which drywall will be attached.

• Lay another layer of glassine on top of the foam.

If you are insulating the ceiling from the attic side, for an additional effect, you can pour a layer of expanded clay chips on the foam plastic.

Working with penofol

Lay with foil on the heat loss side

Penofol is polyethylene foam with one foil side.

Due to the reflective properties of the foil, which is located on the side of possible heat loss, penofol does an excellent job with its insulation functions, and given its small thickness, it can be easily used not only from the outside of the ceiling, but also indoors.

Installation of penofol is quite simple:

• A crate of thin laths is stuffed onto the surface of the ceiling;
• Penofol is laid on top of the crate, which is fastened with nails with a wide hat;
• Another crate is laid on the penofol.

Video about foam insulation

To improve thermal insulation, penofol can be combined with other heaters, such as foam. You can learn more about how to do this in the following video:

Polyurethane foam is applied with special equipment

This is a fairly effective way, but it is impossible to do such work on your own - special equipment is needed to apply a layer of polyurethane foam, which does not make sense to purchase for the sake of warming one house.

As you can see, insulating the ceiling in a wooden house is quite simple and, importantly, not at all expensive. True, do not forget that the ceiling is not the only place in the house through which heat can escape. Therefore, do not forget to insulate walls, windows and doors along with the ceiling. Good luck with your repair!

Wooden houses are considered the most comfortable, natural and warm type of housing. But for comfort and warmth you have to fight. How to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house, because the box is not covered with reinforced concrete slabs? There are several ways.

The need for insulation

As you know, heat is betrayed in three ways:

• thermal conductivity,
• convection
• and radiation.

In the case of a ceiling, all three methods work. Due to convection, warm air rises, and the hottest gas is involved in the process of heat transfer from air to the ceiling material.

Part of the heated air passes through the partition through cracks and natural pores and leaves the room through the roof, taking precious heat with it.

In addition, the ceiling is heated by infrared heat radiation from all heated bodies in the house. Thus, we see that the ceiling is the most vulnerable part of the house in terms of heat loss.

Important! The need to insulate the ceiling partition is understandable at the level of a school physics course and does not cause doubts in a thinking person.

At the same time, this reasoning suggests how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden house. We need to minimize heat transfer and the penetration of heated gas through the roof outside the premises. We cannot stop radiation and convection, and this, however, is not necessary.

Heaters for the ceiling of a wooden house can be divided into three groups:

1. loose,
2. soft (rolled),
3. and solid.

As examples, we will consider one representative of each of these groups:

• Sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam.

Insulation installation

Sawdust

Wood shavings or sawdust - the most. Often you can get this raw material for free. At the same time, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of this material is lower than that of wood, and by laying a sufficient layer, we can achieve a good result.

Another plus is the fact that all the work can be done without much effort by hand, which is also important from the point of view of savings.

Now a few words about the requirements for raw materials:

• Sawdust should not be too small. Wood pulp or dust is not suitable for us, since the volume of air contained in it is too small to effectively block the transfer of heat;
• Raw materials must be treated with antifungal agents and antiseptics. The easiest option is soaking in blue vitriol;
• Shavings must be thoroughly dried before use;
• Do not use fresh sawdust. Better if they are at least a year old.

For work, we need the following set of materials and tools:

• Vapor barrier roll material. Glassine, polyethylene, polypropylene, or another type of insulating carpet will do;

Glassine roll

Prepared dry sawdust in an amount equal to the volume of thermal insulation. It is not difficult to calculate this volume: we multiply the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling by the layer thickness (at least 0.2 meters) and we get the volume in cubic meters. Now we multiply this number by 1000 and get the volume in liters. There are about 60 liters in a standard potato bag, which means that we divide the volume in liters by 60 and get the number of bags; Cement. The consumption of cement in relation to water is taken 1:10, so several bags are enough; A trough or other container for preparing a cement-sawdust mixture.

Advice! It is convenient to assemble a pallet with high sides from boards and lay it with thick construction polyethylene. Lay a sheet of metal or plastic at the bottom so as not to pierce the polyethylene with a shovel. This will be our trough.

Now about how to insulate a wooden ceiling in a private house with sawdust. For convenience, we have compiled a step-by-step instruction:

• We remove the attic floor and free the space between the lags from debris and foreign objects. It will not be superfluous to treat wooden floor structures with antifungal agents and antiseptics.

• We lay vapor barrier over the entire area.

• Pour a small amount of water into the container, add cement to it in the amount of one tenth and knead until a homogeneous cement milk is formed.

• Pour the sawdust into the cement milk and mix thoroughly. The sawdust should be evenly painted gray, covered with a thin layer of cement mortar. We regulate this process by adding sawdust or mortar.

• We evenly scatter the resulting cement-sawdust mass over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe overlap and slightly ram.

After drying, the sawdust can be walked on. If you plan to actively use the attic, it is better to cover the thermal insulation with a floor made of boards.

Mineral wool

If you do not know how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house, and sawdust seems to you an unacceptable option, then get acquainted: mineral wool. . In terms of thermal insulation properties, it surpasses even polystyrene.

This material is very easy to install. It is enough to lay the overlap with a vapor barrier, as in the previous paragraph, and roll out a roll of insulation on top or lay out mats.

Nails can be driven through the cotton wool, slightly drowning the hats in the insulation layer, and a construction thread can be pulled between the nails in a zigzag pattern, which will press the cotton wool.

Advice! From above, cotton wool should also be covered with a layer of vapor barrier, since this material is hygroscopic, and excess moisture will reduce its thermal insulation qualities.

A layer of cotton wool, by analogy with sawdust, can be placed between the lags and dug up with a wooden floor.

Cotton wool can be placed between the floor joists

Insulation of the ceiling is a top priority, as well as insulation of plastic windows and insulation of the loggia.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam can simply be glued to the draft ceiling. For insurance, you can press it with self-tapping screws with large washers, which you can make yourself from any plastic or thin sheet metal. You can also cut off the caps from the foam dowels - the so-called. "umbrellas".

Styrofoam can sheathe the entire attic.

Advice! The joints between the foam sheets can be sealed with ordinary tape.

You can close the foam layer with a plasterboard suspended ceiling, stretch ceiling or other false structure. You can also use traditional lining.

Conclusion

Ceiling insulation is a simple but very important task. For work, you can use a lot of different materials, more than that, it is quite easy to mount almost any coating in a horizontal position.

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.