We build a 3x3 gazebo with our own hands. Frame and top rail

Many owners of summer cottages and private houses strive to create at least some kind of recreation area on their site and spend more time on fresh air. First of all, attention is paid to the construction of the gazebo. Those who once abandoned this idea in favor of installing on summer season collapsible tent and has already managed to make sure of the unreliability of its design. And rightly so. The capital arbor erected on the conscience is not afraid of either hurricane winds or heavy rain.

The foundation of the gazebo

The construction of any wooden gazebo begins with a foundation. Given the relative ease of construction, it is enough to make columns of brick or concrete.

Pre-mark the site, pull the cords around the perimeter of the future gazebo. In the case of a square gazebo, measure the diagonals, thereby checking the perpendicularity of the cords to each other. Having pulled two more cords diagonally, we mark the place of intersection - here the central base will be located.

The required depth of the foundation holes is determined by the type of soil. So, if we are dealing with non-rocky soil, then it is not required to drill holes for pouring concrete pillars below the freezing depth. It will be enough to dig holes with a depth of about 200-300 mm, and then fill them with a sand-gravel mixture to about half the depth, carefully tamping and leveling the backfill horizontally.

Pour coarse sand, crushed stone or gravel should be approximately half the depth of the dug holes

At the base of each pillar we lay paving concrete slabs.

The next step is to lay out the brick columns. Here it is necessary to approach the issue of choosing a suitable brick with all responsibility, because not any type is suitable for the foundation. It is better to use either white silicate or burnt red brick for these purposes. At the same time, it should be noted that clay red brick is still preferable in terms of moisture and frost resistance, and in terms of its strength characteristics, the burnt type of red brick is no worse than silicate, pressed from sand.

Make sure that the masonry is strictly vertical. All columns should be displayed in one horizontal plane. For these purposes, you can use a hydraulic level (a transparent tube filled with water).

We lay out brick columns on leveled platforms

If you plan to fix the lower trim bar and racks to concrete base(brick columns), then this can be done without the use of special fasteners, L-shaped bolts and other things, but with the help of ordinary reinforcement bars cemented into a brick by about 20 - 30 cm. The bar should protrude from above by about the same amount, as you can see in the photo below.

Racks and bottom harness gazebos will be mounted on reinforcement

In general, the own weight of the gazebo is unlikely to allow it to tip over or move off the poles, even with strong wind, but just in case, at least some kind of fastening will not hurt. Of course, if you do not live in a seismically active zone, where you simply cannot do without reliable fastening.

Bottom trim

The next step is the arrangement of the lower harness. For it, as a rule, a bar with a section of 100x100 mm is used. We connect the beam to each other "half a tree". All the grooves that you have to do a lot during the construction of the gazebo can be easily cut with a jigsaw with a long saw or reciprocating saw. Before laying the strapping, waterproofing should be placed on the brick columns - an ordinary roofing material. When attaching to the aforementioned reinforcing bars at the installation sites of future racks, we drill holes in the beam and thread them, as shown in the previous photo.

We pre-assemble the lower strapping, placing it on the base columns

truss system

It is better to pre-assemble the roof truss system with the upper trim, especially when working alone, at the bottom, right on the trim of the floor of the future gazebo - it will be much more convenient to fit the rafters and locks, and you will still have time to "jump" on the stairs final stage assembly of the entire structure.

We carry out the upper strapping itself from a board 50x100 mm, connecting the beam “half-tree” in the corners. To tie it with the pillars to a tenon-groove connection (as shown in the figure below), we hollow out the corresponding grooves with a chisel.

Tongue-and-groove connection

Painted bars of the upper trim. Clearly visible square grooves for mounting on rack spikes

To prevent the roof from sliding down in the rafters, it is necessary to make the usual triangular selections or to cut out a kind of spike that enters the grooves of the upper trim beam selected by the chisel.

Finished arbor rafters in a carved "spike"

Armed with a screwdriver and long screws, we assemble the elements of the future roof.

Arbor truss system assembly

The finished roof frame can now be disassembled and each element can be painted with an antiseptic (for example, Pinotex wood impregnation or similar), resistant to precipitation, sunlight and temperature extremes.

The final stage of the construction of the gazebo

Now that all structural elements truss system the gazebos are completely ready, you can disassemble it, put the parts aside and start installing the racks.

Installation of vertical racks

For them we use the same beam as for the lower trim - 100x100 mm.

For ease of installation, we saw off the ends of the beam strictly at a right angle. On one side of the beam, we make a spike for installing an upper trim on it. For this purpose it is better to use electric jigsaw, which is simply irreplaceable when performing all the numerous cuts. On the other side of the beam, if the installation of the gazebo pillars is planned specifically for the reinforcement bars, we drill a hole to the required depth with a diameter equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the bar. For reliable fastening, it is better to use fittings with notches.

We align the pillars according to the level strictly vertically, for reliability we fix them with temporary jibs. We attach each rack to the bottom trim on self-tapping screws using metal corners, as seen in the photo.

How to install pergola poles alone

After installing all the pillars of the gazebo, we raise and attach the upper trim to them ...

Arbor frame ready

... and then the rafters.

We install rafters

The structure will immediately become rigid and stable and it will be possible to confidently proceed to the roofing. We carry out solid boardwalk from the bottom up, screwing the boards to the logs on self-tapping screws. For marking boards, it is convenient to use a template cut out of cardboard.

Pergola roof decking

OSB-3 boards are also often used for roofing - it all depends on preferences and the type of roof chosen.

For flooring and wooden furniture inside the gazebo, you can use the special Pinotex terrace oil, which prevents the appearance of fungus and gives the wood a water-repellent property.

An excellent roof for the gazebo will serve as a soft bituminous tile Shinglas (Shinglas). Do not forget about the ridge and cornice strips!

We mount the cornice strip

We cover the roof of the gazebo with tiles

Installing ridge rails

Floor laying, installation of stairs and rungs

Installation of the floor begins with the installation of the lag. We fasten the logs to the lower trim using U-shaped brackets.

Then we proceed to the flooring of pre-planed and painted floorboards.

We start laying boards from one of the walls of the gazebo

Before painting, the floorboards are carefully processed with an electric planer and polished with an electric grinder.

Between the supports, pre-fitted, planed with an electric planer, painted and dried railing elements are fastened.

It is hard to imagine that such beauty can be done alone. But the eyes, as they say, are afraid, and the hands ...

The railing of the gazebo, carefully planed with a planer, sanded and painted, even looks very aesthetically pleasing.

We mount the stairs.

We fasten the porch of the gazebo from the outside to the bar of the lower trim

Here she is, our beauty!

Building a gazebo with your own hands in the country is not such a difficult task as it might seem at first!

The 3x3 gazebo only looks small on the outside, but 6 people can easily fit at this table. But you can make the table bigger if you wish! But only there will be almost no free space left - there will be nowhere for guests to dance.

It remains only to cover the outside of the gazebo with a blackout mesh like Tenax Jamaica ...

In the sun, a mesh gazebo looks quite good

The mesh not only saves from mosquitoes in summer, but also protects the gazebo well from rain penetration, and in winter - snow

… thus protecting yourself from mosquitoes and envious neighbors!

To equip on your garden plot comfortable place for quiet family vacation it is not necessary to start capital construction monumental structure, which will require significant costs and take a lot of time.

For this purpose, a wooden gazebo 3x3 meters built with your own hands from affordable and easy-to-process materials is quite suitable. In such a gazebo, two or three families or a fairly large friendly company can be freely accommodated. In addition, there is enough space in it to install a mobile barbecue or barbecue so that, regardless of weather conditions make outdoor recreation complete and, without being distracted from communication, cook food on an open fire.

Self-construction of a gazebo

We already wrote about manufacturing in a previous article, so further here we will talk about how to build a 3x3 meter gazebo, which, thanks to its compact size and natural materials will be a great place for family holidays, and an integral part of the landscape gardening.

This article will present step-by-step instruction on self-manufacturing gazebos for giving 3x3 meters, as well as some tips and tricks, the observance of which will help home master perform this work competently and efficiently.

If the installation site is protected from the wind, and its use will be irregular, a 3x3 m garden tent without walls is perfect for you, the construction of which will cost a little less and take less time.

Foundation arrangement

Having decided on the project and purchased the necessary materials, you can proceed to construction work. The first step is to plan the territory and make a columnar foundation for future construction.

1. On the selected plot of land, remove the fertile layer of soil and make a drawing of a gazebo 3 by 3 meters on the ground along the contour of the future building.
2. At the corners of the square, at the center of its sides and at the intersection of the diagonals, dig pits under the foundation posts with a depth of ~500 mm. Thus, their number will be 9 pieces. and the distance between their axes will be 1500 mm.
3. The bottom of the pits shall be compacted and covered with a 200 mm thick layer of ASG.
4. Lay columns of bricks on top, tying them cement-sand mortar. At the base of each pillar should be two bricks. Bring their number to a column height of 250 mm above the ground.
5. With help building level bring the upper plane of the supports in line with the horizon. Mount a steel bar D 10-12 mm into the corner posts on the cement mortar to a depth of 200 mm, so that another 200 mm remains on the surface.
6. Outside the pillars cover bituminous mastic, and put one or two layers of roofing material on top, after which the pits are filled with ASG and rammed.

Note! When laying foundation pillars further work installation of the gazebo can be performed only after complete curing cement mortar brickwork.

The construction of the base and floor of the gazebo

At its base, a square gazebo 3x3 meters is made of four wooden bars 100x100 mm, which are located along the perimeter of its sides, as well as the fifth, which is installed at the centes of two opposite sides of the square.

1. On both sides of each beam you need to make cutouts for connecting bearing beams half-wood base and drill a hole D12 mm for a steel bar coming out of the foundation. In the same way, you need to do with the fifth beam, making reciprocal cuts for it along the centers of the opposite beams.
2. Place the beams on the pillars of the foundation, threading the bars through the holes and connecting their edges to the half-tree. Check the level of their compliance with the horizon, and fasten together with self-tapping screws.
3. Prepare 4 beams 100x100 with a length of 2300 mm. Using an electric planer, chamfer 10 mm at the corners. In the upper part, make a 40x100 mm cut to install a diagonal tie, and drill a hole for a D12 mm bar in the lower end in the center.

1. Install vertical supports at the corners of the base, level them and secure with braces from a 40x80 beam.
2. From boards 40x100, assemble a diagonal screed by connecting them crosswise in half a tree, make cutouts along the edges for insertion into the cuts of vertical pillars. Lifting the screed up and inserting its edges into the cuts, attach it to the posts with self-tapping screws.
3. In the upper part of the pillars along the perimeter, fix the horizontal roof trim from the board 50x100.
4. On the base beams lay solid without gaps wood flooring floor from a board 40 mm thick.

Thus, a rigid structure should be obtained from the base, vertical supports and horizontal roof beams.

Roofing

Roofing, or in other words, an awning for a 3x3 gazebo will be made according to classical pattern with horizontal beams fixed on vertical supports and rafters resting on them, on which a crate is laid for roofing material. Top edge rafters in the central part of the roof is connected to the support column.

1. First you need to make the column itself, which is cut out of a 100x100 bar 800 mm long. With the help of a planer, he needs to give an octagonal shape, and on one side make a vertical cut 50x100 mm.
2. As rafters, you need to use boards 50x100 mm, making cutouts in them and connecting them at an angle to half a tree.
3. The column is installed in the center of the crosshair of the diagonal tie. A connected pair of rafters is inserted into its upper cut, the lower edge of which is inserted and fastened with self-tapping screws into the upper cut of the vertical supports. Thus, you need to install all four corner rafters.
4. Intermediate rafters are attached with the upper end to the support post, and the lower end to the horizontal beam of the upper roof trim.
5. On top of this structure, a 25 mm board crate is stuffed and a waterproofing roofing material is laid, thus forming hipped roof.

To cover an awning for a 3x3 gazebo, soft bituminous tiles or a metal profile sheet of the desired color are most often used.

The walls of the gazebo

Having completed the arrangement of the roof, you can begin to manufacture the walls. There is a large variety various options decoration of the walls of the gazebo, among which each owner can choose the most suitable for himself.

1. As the simplest and inexpensive option solid wall lining, it is recommended to install a crate of scraps of bars on the walls, on which a solid wooden lining is stuffed on one or both sides.
2. As an option for protection from the sun, you can use lattice wall lining, which will create a shadow and will not prevent free blowing by the wind.
3. An open gazebo around the perimeter can be planted with bushy or climbing plants, which form hedge giving a shadow.
4. To simulate a log house, you can lower part sheathe the gazebos with a bar or block house, and install massive window sills on top of it.

Advice! After graduation finishing works the entire gazebo can be covered with tinted protective impregnation certain color. In addition to its protective function, it will give your building the necessary shade.

Conclusion

The construction of any construction site, whether it is a residential building or a 3 by 5 by 3 by 5 gazebo, requires, first of all, responsibility and a serious approach to business, but you should not be afraid of this. If you are determined and confident in your abilities, such a simple structure as a 3x3 meter gazebo will not take much time, but in the future it will delight you and your guests on warm summer evenings for many years to come.

Additional information of interest can be obtained by watching the video in this article or by reading similar materials from this section, and you can leave your questions and wishes in the comment form.

Dacha or Vacation home, this is a great opportunity to spend at least part of your leisure time in the fresh air, but sometimes it gets in the way scorching sun or drizzling rain. To hide from the weather, while remaining on the street, you can do it yourself 3x3, approximate drawings and dimensions of which you will find below in this article. But apart from wiring diagrams you, of course, will need high-quality building materials so that the structure does not depend on wind loads.

What will be needed from the materials

Coniferous timber 100×100 mm

Since we will build a gazebo to give 3x3 m from lumber, we will have to prepare wood, fasteners and roofing. In detail, you will need:

• coniferous timber 100 × 100 mm;
• board 100 × 50 mm;
• board 70 × 40 mm;
• board 20-25 mm thick (can be unedged) or sheet material type of moisture resistant plywood, OSB-3 or OSB-4 for roofing lathing;
• bar 50 × 50 mm;
• roofing;
• fasteners: steel perforated corners and linings, self-tapping screws, anchors;
• ordinary or silicate (solid) brick;
• cement, sand gravel.

A few words should also be said about the choice of wood, more precisely, about its quality:

• humidity - according to GOST 8485-86, the first and second grade of wood can contain up to 22% moisture, it is also called air-dry, which is ideal in this case;
• integrity - there should be no cracks and falling knots on the profiles (board, beam);
• color - black spots on the wood indicate fungal mold damage, and blue spots - about improper storage(damp wood was covered with polyethylene and they were steamed). In both cases, this is a marriage and buying such construction material do not do it.

Advice. To protect the wood from rotting, treat it with an antiseptic such as ANTIGIL.

Let's start building

If you decide to build a 3x3 gazebo with your own hands, the drawings and dimensions will have to be transferred to the site, that is, to make the right square. On its basis, the higher part of the structure will also be erected.

So you can get a right angle on the site

To get an angle of 90⁰, drive a peg into the ground at the proposed corner of the gazebo and tie two cords to it that will not stretch (you can use a thin wire) of 3 and 4 m. If the ends of these cords are separated by 5 m, then the angle ABC will turn out to be right. The more accurate the dimensions, the sharper the angle will be. After that, you can start building.

Column Foundation

For gazebos, three types of foundations are usually used: pile-screw (in areas with a large slope), and columnar. We will focus on the last option.

Making holes for supports

First, calculate two right angles (the method is described above) and, based on them, mark the perimeter with nylon threads - this is convenient, since such a thread stretches, and even if you catch on it, it will not break. Now dig holes in the corners with a depth of 20-30 cm (this parameter depends on the density of the soil in the summer cottage). Three meters between the posts is a lot even for a steel grillage, so you will have to dig five more holes - four on the sides and one in the center, as shown in the photo above.

Since we will be making a prefabricated columnar foundation, the foundation must be calculated so that it is 4-5 cm wider than the column in each direction, which is easy to adjust with the size of the hole. So, the length of silicate and ordinary bricks is 25 cm, which means that the hole should be about 33 × 33 or 35 × 35 cm around the perimeter. Pour a sand-gravel pillow 15-20 cm high there and tamp it well. Fill the rest of the recess with concrete a couple of centimeters below or flush with the ground.

Column Foundation on a sloping site

The very next day, brick supports can be erected on the flooded sole. Pay attention to the top photo - it is clearly seen that the masonry on the left side consists of two rows, in the middle of three, and on the right of four rows - this is compensation for the slope of the site. In this case, the difference is 0.13 m / 3 m running: the brick thickness is 65 mm or 0.065 m, and two bricks are 0.065 * 2 = 0.13 m - everything is quite simple. But it is not always possible to level the supports with rows of masonry - the slopes are different. In such cases, you can change the height of the support due to the horizontal seam, applying more or less mortar.

Ways corner connection timber "to the floor of the tree" and "to the paw"

Rostverk or lower trim for a gazebo

After 7-10 days, a grillage or lower trim can be attached to the supports, which in this case is the same. To do this, take four three-meter beams with even ends and cut their edges “to the tree floor” or “to the paw”, as shown in the upper image. Do not rush to fix this frame on the supports, but first fasten it with nails and, having laid it on the foundation, check the diagonals - the allowable discrepancy is ± 2 mm. Before fixing the grillage, lay pieces of roofing material on the posts so that the timber draws less moisture.

Anchor bolts with plastic dowels are perfect for fixing the strapping to brick supports (you will need 9 pieces). First, at the point of contact between the beam and the support, drill holes according to the diameter of the bolt and put marks on the brick. Then move the frame a little to the side and drill holes in the supports, but already along the diameter of the dowel. Drive dowels into seats and put the strap in place. You make potai (extensions) for the bolt heads in the beam, and screw the grillage.

Frame erection

Methods for fixing timber and boards

In order to fix the racks on the grillage, it is most convenient to use metal reinforced corners. But before screwing the corner to vertical bar, it needs to be fixed and for this, as a rule, temporary braces are placed from sawn timber waste (bars, slats, planks, boards). But it is permissible to fix the logs from the boards, both with corners and with trimmings of the bars. In the top photo you can see the fastenings of both vertical and horizontal profiles.

At first, you will have to install only the corner posts, that is, put guys on them and fix metal corners. After that, you need to assemble the Mauerlat - this is the same frame as the lower trim, only it is installed on top, and it serves as a support for the truss system. Here, of course, there is no need to use anchors and the timber is screwed using reinforced steel corners. Intermediate racks are installed after attaching the Mauerlat, but this is not even an instruction, but simply a little advice for convenience.

Rafter system and roofing

The easiest thing to do shed roof but it's more suitable for closed version gazebos, that is, the entrance will be only in front, from where the highest part of the structure is. Some owners of dachas and suburban crowbars prefer. I have nothing against two slopes, but in this case you have to make gables and the entrance here can only be from two sides. That is why I offer you a tent rafter system: firstly, it is more beautiful, and secondly, in terms of complexity and finances, it will not exceed the first two options by much.

Hip rafter system

Since a roof without a frame is not made for a 3x3 gazebo (3 m is a large gap for any roofing material), we will proceed to assemble the truss system. The height of the dome can be different, but when raised in the center by 50-70 cm, the length of the rafter leg will be about 240 cm (they are best made from a board 70 × 40 mm). At the vanishing point, the board is cut at an angle, and the angle depends on the height of the dome.

In the top photo, you can see that the structure is assembled on the ground along with the Mauerlat, and this is also an option, since the assembly below is much easier. similar work up. Just here, in order to raise the truss system and install it on the frame racks, you will need at least three people, although you can call the neighbors for 10-15 minutes and the issue will be resolved.

Various mounting methods rafter legs to Mauerlat

Rafter legs will need to be attached to the Mauerlat and this can be done different ways(some of them are shown in the image above). You can see that the leg or the mauerlat itself can be filed by making a groove for installation, hemming a bar from below for emphasis, and strengthening the leg on both sides with boards. But, no matter how you decide to fix it, do not neglect the metal fasteners - it makes the structure more rigid.

Under the dome there is a crosspiece made of boards 100 × 50 mm - it forms four identical squares, but this is a fragile system and after a while there may be a backlash (the arbor will stagger). To prevent this from happening, you will need to construct triangles for rigidity and for this a 50x50 mm bar or a 70x40 mm board installed flat will suffice. You just screw another one on top of the cross, but already diagonally, which immediately forms eight triangles, and the frame will never stagger.

Installation of a solid crate

Installation of intermittent lathing

You need to decide on roofing, since it depends on it what kind of crate will be - continuous or intermittent. Of course, the second option will cost less, because this will require 2-3 times less lumber, and in this case (I mean a domed roof), metal tiles are best suited. She has maximum length sheet 4.5 m, so you can do without transverse joints, which is very convenient - all that remains is to decorate the corners.

Bituminous shingles used as roofing material

But, for example, for shingles you need a solid crate and it can be not only boards. On top of the intermittent lathing, you can lay moisture-resistant plywood or oriented strand board of the 3rd or 4th class (OSB-3 or OSB-4) - these are water-repellent boards.

Floor and fence

Plank floor in the gazebo

For the floor, it is best to use a planed board with a thickness of 40 mm, and, as an option, you can stop at 30 mm, but in this case there should be no more than 40 cm between the lags. The plank floor must be painted, since in any case, atmospheric precipitation will fall into the open gazebo, and this causes the wood to rot. But best for floor use terrace board- this is a mixture of plastic with sawdust - it looks like natural wood, but at the same time it is neutral to getting wet, although such material will certainly have to fork out.

simple gazebo fencing

In the top photo you can see how to make something simple, but at the same time beautiful fence for open gazebo. As a railing here, you can use a polished beam 100 × 100 mm, but at the same time, a board 100 × 50 or 70 × 40 mm will do. As balusters, which are made in the form of a cross, you can use the same boards, or a bar 50 × 50 or 50 × 40 mm.

Ladder on bowstrings on two steps

Leaving the entrance without a staircase is somehow not entirely correct - for the elderly, the disabled and children it is very inconvenient. See how the ladder is made in the top photo - two bowstrings rest on concrete tiles on the ground and the lower harness of the gazebo. The steps here can either be installed on a metal mounting bracket with reinforcement, or bars of 30 × 30 or 40 × 40 mm can be sewn onto bowstrings. The thickness of the tread boards must be at least 50 mm, as the staircase is open to atmospheric precipitation.

Video: how to make a gazebo

Conclusion

There are no drawings in this article in the direct sense of the word, since horses are simply not needed. To make 3x3 m there are no rigid frames, it is rather a flight of the designer's imagination. But here are described the principles, adhering to which you will be able to do such a light architectural structure.

The size of the gazebo is determined depending on the size suburban area. Huge building in small garden will look ridiculous, like a small gazebo on the floor of an empty vast territory.

When preparing a project, consider not only the size, but also the visual appeal of the gazebo. It is necessary to fit the gazebo as much as possible into landscape design site. Think about the placement of the gazebo, as well as the view from the window, few people want to enjoy the neighbor's house, let it be a garden or a pond. If the building does not imply the presence of its own cooking area, then it is worth building a gazebo closer to the house so as not to carry food and kitchen utensils across the entire yard.

IMPORTANT! When building, you also need to take into account how many people plan to relax in the gazebo. If you plan to place in dacha building a company of 8-12 people, then think about how much space you need to set up a table, chairs, whether there is enough space for passage, whether guests will interfere with each other. Optimal size gazebos becomes 3x5 m, and for a gazebo with a barbecue, if space permits, 4x6 meters.

The gazebo is designed for 20 people, has a standard size of 3x4 meters and is tetrahedral. As a rule, the gazebo is made of pine. Projects of a wooden gazebo, for 20 people, you see below.

Arbors for 8 people are considered small. Such a building can be built of wood or be metal. Standard sizes pavilions A wooden pavilion is made from larch, spruce, pine.

The photo shows a sketch of a large gazebo with barbecue facilities.

Gazebo 4x4

A gazebo of this size is considered classic, it is not at all difficult to make it with your own hands. A 4x4 square gazebo does not require a large area and is well suited for a small family.

1. Foundation installation.
2. The basis of the gazebo.
3. Installing the floor and roof truss system
4. 4x3 - straight coal gazebo Suitable for a small family of 3.

No more than 14 people can fit in a 4x6 gazebo. Such a gazebo can additionally have a zone for household needs.

The photo shows a square gazebo.

Arbor 6x6

The hexagonal classic gazebo is designed for ten people in terms of capacity. Standard parameters for a hexagonal gazebo:

• Diagonal - 290 cm. Diagonal is the distance from one corner to the opposite.
• Width - 250 cm. Width is the distance from the corner of one side to the corner of the second.
• Height - 220cm. Height is measured from the floor to the top rail
• Total height - 280cm. Total height - measured from the base to the ridge knot.
• Floor area approximately - 6.5 m2
• The value of one side of the gazebo is 145 cm.

Drawing of a hexagonal gazebo for 10 people.

6 faceted gazebo considered a classic building. Such an arbor is very economical, simple in execution and functional. It is not difficult to build a gazebo with your own hands; all its elements are standard in shape and size.

The building consists of the following elements:

• hexagonal base;
• six support posts;
• six fragments for the roof in the form of triangles;
• sectional fence.

Due to the repetitive elements, construction is faster and easier. How to build a gazebo?

1. Draw a hexagon in the intended place with twine and two pegs.
2. Install a column foundation.
3. The frame for the gazebo is most often erected from boards and timber. The bars must be connected with nails, and even better with self-tapping screws. AT support pillars, which will hold the roof, it is necessary to make special grooves for their fastening.
4. Boards can be used as flooring material.

6 coal gazebo can be different sizes. The size depends on the number of vacationers who can be accommodated in the building, it can be a gazebo 6x4 or 6x6.

The photo shows a hexagonal gazebo.

Arbor octagonal

An octagonal gazebo is well suited for any site.

The standard drawing of octagonal arbors looks something like this:

You can build such a gazebo with your own hands:

1. To do this, you need to draw a regular octagon on the ground. In each corner you now need to install a support post. You should get an octagon with two beams in the middle.
2. It is necessary to accurately set the corners and edges of the gazebo:

• the length of each face should be 2660 mm;
• the corners of the quadrangle are 90 degrees;
• diagonal size - 3762 mm.

1. Now it's time to install the frame of the gazebo, exactly following the drawing.
2. The wooden floor is planed edged board. Between the boards it is necessary to leave a gap of 5 mm to remove moisture.

The photo shows a sketch of an 8-sided open gazebo.

Finished 8-sided gazebo, made by yourself, open type looks like this:

Gazebo 3x3

A square gazebo 3x3 is perfect for giving. The size of the gazebo allows you to install it even in a small area.

Drawing of such a gazebo:

How to do wooden gazebo 3 by 3 meters? The gazebo can be made from timber. The building will be durable and beautiful. A building made of pine timber will look good against the background of a brick house.

1. Installation of the foundation for the gazebo.
2. Need to install 4 wooden bars at the corners of the future gazebo. At the top of the bars we make a cut for fastening the diagonal ligament.
3. We collect the diagonal bundle from the boards, connecting them into half a tree. We insert into the cuts.
4. At this stage, it is necessary to make the roof of the gazebo. The roof can also be made from wooden beam. For square gazebo 3 by 3 meters a four-pitched roof is well suited.
5. We make the crate of the gazebo and the floor from the boards.

Now you know how to build a 3 by 3 meter gazebo. Wooden gazebos are inexpensive, but environmentally friendly and comfortable.

The photo shows a 3x3 gazebo.

for the roof country gazebo you can use an awning. The awning can be prepared by hand.

1. To do this, you need to purchase dense material right size. The awning should fit the size of the frame area. If the area is large, then several pieces of material may have to be sewn together.
2. In order to make the roof denser, it is necessary to impregnate the prepared fabric with varnish light color and install face down in the frame.

Gazebo 3x4

Rectangular gazebo 3 by 4 is not difficult to self construction. Working with this form of gazebo will be easy even for a beginner. You can draw a drawing for the construction of a gazebo with your own hands using standard examples. The drawing usually contains a large number of details and calculations.

How to build? The construction algorithm does not differ from the construction of other buildings, the only difference is in the dimensions and shape of the building.

1. Foundation installation. If the soil and weight of the gazebo allows, install a columnar foundation.
2. Installing the gazebo frame.
3. Installation of the roof truss system and the roof of the building.

Buy gazebos:

• Arbor 3x6 - 57,000 rubles.
• Arbor 3x5 - 55,000 rubles.
• 3 for 4 - 240 thousand rubles.

The photo shows a rectangular gazebo.

Pentagonal gazebos

The pentagonal gazebo looks very interesting and is suitable both for those who want to spend time alone, and for a fun holiday with friends.

Construction features:

1. Arbor 5x5 does not require a monolithic or strip base. It's all about the ease of construction, of course, if you do not plan to equip with heavy furniture. A pier foundation is better.
2. For building without professional help it is recommended to use a beam for the construction of the frame. Sections of a pine beam - 15 by 15 cm.
3. The floor of the gazebo is installed from a bar with a section of 15x15. A board 3 cm thick is laid on top of the log from the timber.
4. The roof for the gazebo will look like this. From above, the frame for the roof is covered with tiles.

Photo 10 - Large gazebo

The dimensions of the gazebo should be thought out very clearly, the shape of the building and the number of required material for construction. Choose the size of the gazebo for your family, depending on the number of vacationers, and the size of the site itself.