Laying porcelain stoneware on the floor according to the classical pattern and diagonally. Diagonal tile laying: tile selection, calculation and instruction Diagonal tile layout

Laying tiles diagonally has some advantages over the usual (generally accepted) cladding method:

Diagonal floor tiles.

• When there is a narrow undercut under the wall, the triangular pieces look more natural and less noticeable. Oblique, narrow pieces with chess (ordinary) lining, constantly attract the eye.
• When laying porcelain tiles of the same pattern in several adjacent rooms, the geometry of the rooms does not affect the seams and the resulting layout of tiles against the walls. The location and shape of these rooms can be of any configuration and the tiles on the floor will look natural.

Laying tiles diagonally.

Diagonal tiling in two adjacent rooms.

• When facing two adjacent rooms with floor tiles with different colors and patterns, it is possible to play with contrast on the door line. This can be done by placing tiles on the floor diagonally in one room and in straight rows in another.

Contrast when laying tiles in different ways

I am not alone in my reasoning about the ability of tiles laid in a rhombus on the floor to hide irregularities in the geometry of rooms:

The technology of laying tiles on the floor diagonally.

There is an opinion that in order to lay tiles diagonally, it is necessary to draw diagonals on the floor and start facing along these lines.

This condition is possible only in one case. If the room is square in plan. That is, the sides are the same, and all the angles in the room are 90 degrees.

There is an easier way to glue tiles diagonally. To do this, you need to cut several tiles exactly diagonally and start facing using these oblique halves. The first whole 4-5 tiles laid in a square will give one even side. It must be taken as the base. Align, if not a straight line, with a wedge. And in the future, continue the straight line with a chopping cord or a laser beam. At some stage (section), you can reproduce a right angle on it, and already carry out all further laying according to this angle. This will help to get even rows of seams even on non-calibrated tiles.

technology of laying tiles on the floor diagonally.

Filling the space with whole tiles, pruning can be done the next day. These triangular pieces no longer affect the geometry and layout.

Where to start laying diagonally.

The impracticality of facing along the diagonals applied on the floor is that you have to start from a corner or some wall. But the most prominent place often becomes the passageway of the room and the doorway without a threshold. In this place, there are usually two different coatings. If you start gluing tiles from a corner, you can get a kaleidoscope of pieces on the aisle.

Diagonal start of cladding

Therefore, the technology for laying out tiles in a “diagonal” way is slightly different. Laying begins with walkways and areas that will not be blocked by furniture or equipment.

Diagonal tiles on the aisle.

In arbors of irregular shape, when laying diagonally, it is better to bypass the perimeter with a whole tile. And fill the middle, then already, with diagonal rows.

Diagonal tiles in the gazebo.

This will help to avoid the appearance of pieces on the edge of the site and the formation of a cut, not always even edge. Small pieces do not hold well, especially at the edge of steps or platforms. A whole row of tiles around the perimeter also creates a visual frame. A frame in design is always a winning option. Be it a frame or ceiling frieze frame.

Where to start laying tiles diagonally in the garage on the floor is shown

How to measure and cut a tile diagonally.

In the West, for this case, various devices have been invented to facilitate the procedure.

Porcelain stoneware measuring fixtures for trimming

But, often, it's all vanity from scratch. There is nothing easier than directly on the tile to mark with a pencil the points along which the cut of a manual or electric tile cutter must pass.

This idea is more clear in a short video. All videos are short. Without introductions and philosophy. The main essence that complements the text on the site.

Difficult sections of cutting tiles are easier to do with a pre-cut paper stencil.

Details below:

Calculate the consumption of tiles diagonally.

Earlier, in an article on , it has already been said that the consumption of tiles diagonally is the same as with normal installation and is 7-8 percent. And this figure depends on the size of the tile itself and the presence of a complex pattern on it, representing a set of several tiles. The smaller the tile, the less percentage of it goes to cutting.

Price (rates) for laying tiles diagonally.

It is generally accepted to consider this method of laying as increased complexity. Therefore, the cost of this work is somewhat higher than with the usual method. The appreciation can be expressed 1.2 – 1.3. This value can vary and depends on some incomprehensible accidents, currency fluctuations and traditions of a particular area.

Classic layout - with this method of flooring, it is characteristic that all horizontal rows are located exactly in relation to each other. Facing according to the classical scheme is suitable for rooms with the correct geometry, that is, all angles in the room are approximately 45 °, and the discrepancies in the diagonals do not exceed 5 cm.

Diagonal layout - with this method, they are laid on the floor with a rhombus. That is, they deliberately lay the tiles so that oblique rows are visually obtained. Diagonal flooring is the only right solution if the room has an irregular or complex geometry. For example, when combining a balcony and a kitchen into a single loggia or when combining a toilet with a bathroom into a single bathroom, they almost always get a floor surface with irregular geometry.

Attention! The easiest way to decide on the layout is to take and accurately measure the diagonals, at the corners of the room from the inside. If the size is practically the same (difference up to 5 cm) - you can veneer according to the classical scheme. If the run-up is about or more than 10 cm, then definitely, it is necessary to choose a diagonal installation.

Non-standard tile layout from the Concret collection of the Natucer factory

Marking for laying porcelain stoneware according to the classical scheme

With ideally correct geometry, floors are almost never found. In either case, there are diagonal divergences in the room and the first thing to do is to decide where the wedge will be placed. That is, it is necessary to lay out several horizontal and vertical rows without glue on a prepared even screed, while taking into account the following points.

• The wedge should not be on the entry threshold. Where there is a threshold into the room - there should be a whole even tile.
• Standing at the entrance to the room, visually determine the areas open to the eye and hidden areas of the floor. Areas hidden from view - the area behind the door, areas where the sink or heavy furniture will be located, and simply areas “where it is not visible”.
• Having laid the tiles exactly along the threshold and having determined the zones hidden to the eye, the tiles are laid out so that the wedge or cutting does not stand out too much. On the screed, indicative marks are made, according to which the laying of porcelain stoneware will begin.

Diagonal markings for porcelain stoneware cladding

For marking, you will need a rebound marker thread and a 90 ° construction square. It is necessary to perform the following series of actions in sequence.

• The marker thread is stretched between parallel corners along the diagonal of the room above the screed. Pulling and sharply releasing the thread, a straight line is made on the screed diagonally between opposite corners.
• In the center of the room, a 90 ° square is applied to the line on the screed. Focusing on the second shelf of the square, above the screed, between the other two corners, the second line is beaten off with a marker thread.
• The resulting point of intersection of the two lines on the screed will mean the center of the room and the area from which to start laying porcelain stoneware.

Diagonal installation of Baltic tiles by Cithetiles

Preparation of tools and necessary materials

For flooring you will need tools:

• Level, square and tape measure;
• Small spatula and trowel;
• Special spatula - comb with a tooth height of 6-10 mm;
• Small angle grinder (angle grinder, she is also a grinder) with a win disc;
• Stationery knife and pencil.
• Rubber mallet;

Of the materials, you will need to calculate and buy tile adhesive, as well as PVC crosses to form uniform seams between the facing elements. And, of course, it is necessary to purchase porcelain stoneware at the very beginning of all work, before marking.

From what site does the laying of porcelain stoneware on the floor begin?

With classic cladding, the principle is as follows:

1. Laying the facing material on the glue starts from the threshold. That is, longitudinally to the future threshold, 1 row of a whole tile is laid out on glue;
2. Further from the horizontal row on the threshold, a complete vertical row is laid out along one of the walls;
3. Tiles are no longer laid in the threshold area, the laid porcelain stoneware is carefully stepped over, and all laying is carried out from the far corner into the room;
4. If you correctly use the square, the level and constantly navigate by the marks on the screed, then over time they go exactly to the first row of tiles at the threshold;
5. On the first day, only whole slabs of porcelain stoneware are laid on the glue, all other extensions and cut parts are laid after 2 days.

When facing the floor diagonally:

1. Laying porcelain stoneware on the adhesive starts from the center of the room, where a cross was drawn on the screed with a marker thread. The center of the cross is the point of contact of the first 4 tiles;
2. After laying the first 4 tiles in the center of the floor, later you can lay porcelain stoneware in any convenient direction, the main thing is to leave a small space so that you can move without stepping on the tile;
3. In the early days, lay out as large an area as possible only from whole porcelain stoneware. Further, after a pause of 1-2 days, extensions are laid on the glue - porcelain stoneware cut around the perimeter of the room.

Attention! No one can say for sure when it will be possible to step on porcelain stoneware laid on glue and move along it. Much depends on the air temperature in the room, the brand of tile adhesive and the thickness of its layer.

Classic tiling

In order for porcelain stoneware to be laid on the floor with high quality, it is imperative to ensure that no voids form under the tile and that the entire space is filled with tile adhesive. To achieve complete filling, the tile adhesive must be applied both to the surface of the screed and to the back of the porcelain stoneware. Moreover, it is desirable to apply the working tile adhesive in different directions.

Initially, with a trowel, the adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the screed and its mass is distributed “by eye”. After that, the adhesive mass is distributed over the screed and its uniform thickness is formed using a comb spatula. Further, in a similar way, glue is applied to the back side of porcelain stoneware and a single layer thickness is set to it with a comb. At the next stage, the tile is laid in its place and the upper part of the porcelain stoneware is lightly pressed with the palm of your hand.

From above, on the surface of the facing material, a bubble level is placed on the edge and weak point blows are made on the porcelain stoneware with a rubber mallet. The main task here is to level the ceramic tiles laid on the adhesive as evenly as possible. Having completed the leveling of the first tile in a similar way, the adjacent porcelain tile is placed on the adhesive, while the same thickness of the seam between the tiles is formed by inserted PVC crosses.

Advice! If you are going to tile the floor with your own hands for the first time in your life, we recommend that you preview the video with step-by-step instructions or chat with professional builders.

Grouting joints between floor tiles

It is advisable to grout the joints between porcelain stoneware 5-7 days after it has been laid on the adhesive. As long as the joints are empty, they allow the adhesive to ventilate under the tiles and the adhesive itself dries faster and better. Grouting is carried out with a special mixture for filling tile joints using a rubber flexible spatula. Previously, all seams are cleaned with a clerical knife from foreign debris and dust. Then, along the cleaned seams, they pass with a vacuum cleaner. After that, all the seams are filled with a finished grout with a rubber spatula and pause for about 30-40 minutes. When the filler for tile joints hardens a little, they pass over the entire lined surface with a wide, very damp sponge, after which they repeatedly pass over the entire surface several times with a dry piece of old rags.

With ceramic tiles laid diagonally on the floor, you can create a beautiful scheme, which is one of the most beautiful and common. Unlike direct laying, a little more materials are required and the process itself is more complicated, but it has certain advantages in hiding the unevenness of the walls.

Finishing with floor tiles diagonally will allow you to visually expand the room and hide the unevenness of the walls

Advantages of diagonal laying

Before you start laying tiles diagonally, you need to understand the features of this method. First of all, it is worth noting the pros and cons of the diagonal orientation of the tiles.

Attention! Diagonal laying can be done with both square and rectangular tiles.

So why is the diagonal method good? Advantages:

• Visual expansion of space. With a rotary arrangement, the room visually expands. In this case, you need to carefully choose the color and design of the coating.
• Decorative. The effect of diagonal styling is more interesting, because it looks unusual. To increase the effect, combine different colors.
• Hides uneven walls. In the absence of absolute parallelism of the walls, laying floor tiles diagonally allows you to hide this.

The laid surface by the diagonal method can be called more interesting and also costly than the direct method.

But there are also disadvantages of this method associated with the installation:

• Complexity. Laying is much more difficult, since you need to correctly maintain the parallel of the invisible diagonal.
• More tile consumption. Tiles will be cut diagonally, and this increases consumption compared to straight laying by 5-10 percent.
• Tile cutting. You will have to spend a lot of effort to cut the plates.

Necessary tools and materials

To lay the tiles at 45 degrees, you need a tool that allows you to cut the halves diagonally

In order for the whole process of diagonal laying to be of high quality, it is necessary to prepare special tools and stock up on the right amount of material. The difficulty will be that there is a large number of cut plates unsuitable for further use. Therefore, it will be necessary to carry out accurate calculations.

To determine the required number of tiles, it is best to do this schematically by counting a small area from one wall to another and multiplying by the partition factor of the site. First of all, whole tiles are calculated, after which it is calculated how many pieces will need to be made. If possible, try to make two pieces from one tile.

The resulting amount must be multiplied by 10% for cases of marriage, inaccuracies in the calculation, the occurrence of defects during cutting.

You will also need the following tools:

• a container for preparing a solution;
• spatula (notched, flat);
• glue;
• grout fugue;
• building level;
• twine;
• felt-tip pen or chalk for marking;
• roulette;
• spacers and mounting seam crosses;
• rubber mallet;
• tile cutter.

Surface preparation and marking

Laying tiles with a laser level will be much more convenient

The level of complexity of laying is often determined by the quality of the base. That is why it needs to be prepared. In order for the final result to be achieved without problems, it is necessary to level the surface:

1. The protruding parts are polished.
2. The recesses in the base are sealed with cement mortar.

It would be best to make a new layer of self-levelling compound so that the installation process goes even better.

To do this, a special dry composition is mixed in water. After reaching the desired consistency, it is applied to the base and evenly distributed with a spiked roller. It levels the composition itself, and the roller is needed to direct it in the right direction and get rid of the air bubbles that remain in the solution.

After 3-4 days have passed and the screed has undergone the polymerization process, the surface is treated with primers that will improve the adhesion of the tile adhesive. Apply impregnation in a thin layer of 1 mm.

On the prepared base, it will be necessary to make marking lines along which it will be possible to lay parallel to the diagonal. This is done as follows:

Important! To carry out accurate marking, it is necessary to remove all interfering elements. It is dismantled from the perimeter of the walls and the door jamb is removed. But this process must be completed before the preparation of the base surface begins.

• If the room has a square shape, then the diagonal will be the reference line, which is drawn with a string. You can use more advanced tools, such as a laser level, but they are expensive and not everyone has it, so you have to get by with a simple rope and chalk.
• Since rooms with straight corners and straight walls are not so common, it will be necessary to use the isosceles triangle method. To do this, from the corner of the beginning of the tile installation, lines of the same length are laid and connected by a line. Such a line (the base of an isosceles triangle) will serve as the side for laying the tiles.

Material calculation

Another important stage of the installation is the calculation. The quality of the implementation of this stage will depend on whether there are enough materials or not. Buying too much material is a waste of money, and saving too much can lead to material shortages that may then be difficult to find commercially.

We put a small segment to calculate the approximate consumption

In order to carry out the calculation, you can use the following methods:

• Online calculators.
• Professional programs for tilers: "Tile", "Tile 3D".
• Manual way.

Trusting just like that, without checking the calculations, is not worth it to an unfamiliar program: “trust, but verify!”. Moreover, there are two ways to perform manual calculation:

• The total area of ​​the room is divided by the area of ​​one tile. The resulting number must be increased by 10%. If laying tiles on the floor with your own hands will be done with a rhombus, then the stock must be taken at least 15%.
• A calculation is performed for one row of the finished surface, after which the resulting amount is multiplied by the number of rows. Also, do not forget about the margin of 15% if the tiles are laid with a diamond.

The following factors will affect the calculation of the required amount of adhesive composition:

• base material;
• surface evenness;
• plate sizes;
• adhesive quality.

You can apply the average value of the adhesive mixture. To calculate the flow, proceed as follows. The packaging indicates the consumption per square meter, which is multiplied by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, thereby obtaining the average consumption of the adhesive composition.

Laying technology

Diagonal laying starts from the center of the room

There are two ways to lay ceramic tiles diagonally:

• Starting from the center of the room. This method is used if the open floor area to be laid is located in the central part of the room. Lay the modules in sectors. The initial center point is determined by the intersection of the diagonal lines. The lines divide the entire laying area into four sectors. The corner of the first tile should be on the center point.
• Starting from the corner of the room. The first elements will be cut triangular tiles. For this, a tile cutter or grinder is used, with which the tile is cut in the form of an isosceles triangle.

In general, the whole process of applying tiles to the surface is practically no different from laying in a direct way. So it should go in the following order:

• Glue is applied to a small area of ​​​​the floor and on the back of the tile.
• Tiles are laid in compliance with the gap between adjacent tiles. In this case, it is necessary to observe the parallelism of the previously marked line.
• The tile is slightly pressed onto the adhesive, the overall horizontal level is checked. If necessary, tap with a rubber mallet.
• Next comes the next tile, which must be on the same horizontal level as the others.

The first stage of installation takes place using solid tiles, and cutting and contouring will be carried out in a couple of days, when the adhesive has dried enough to walk on the tile floor.

The final step will be the grouting of the joints between the tiles, while it is worth choosing a grout mixture that will focus on the diagonal arrangement of the modules.

Watch the video on how to lay tiles on the floor with a diagonal orientation:

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

Proper laying of tiles diagonally allows you to visually expand the space of the room, give it an aesthetic appeal. This method is suitable for large and small rooms. With diagonal laying, you can create an unusual flooring pattern using just tiles in two different shades.

Preparing for diagonal floor tiling

Cleaning of the floor to be laid must be carried out with the utmost care. Removing dust and debris will avoid poor-quality distribution of the leveling layer.

After cleaning the surface, it is coated with a primer. The time of its complete solidification is 24 hours. After a day, you can proceed to further preparation.

To understand how to lay tiles diagonally on the floor and create a perfectly even pattern, additional marking of the center of the room will allow. To do this, you will need to measure the room, mark the central strip (longitudinal), relative to which the drawing will be laid out.

A stretched and well-fixed thread at a distance of about 5 cm from the floor surface will help in this.

Step-by-step instruction

A trial (dry) laying will help to make sure that the chosen center is correct and to select the desired pattern. With its help, you can create the most suitable pattern.

In the above photos you can see that the created flooring will have a frame of dark tiles along the walls. Therefore, in addition, you need to trim the light tiles, which will allow you to style the coating.

The laying work itself is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Along the thread stretched across the room, the central strip of tiles is laid out on tile adhesive. Their diagonals must exactly match the center line of the room. Plastic crosses are laid between the tiles.

2. A pattern is laid out in the central part of the room.

3. The remaining tiles are laid. The edges of the masonry should be perfectly even - not zigzag.

4. The distance is measured from the edge of the tiled masonry to the wall. The dark tile is cut off, which will be used as a frame.

5. Framing is being laid.

6. Then the tile joints are grouted. After the grout dries, the tile is cleaned of the remnants of the mixture.

7. The tile is wiped with a soft cloth to give it a stylistic appeal.

The given instructions for laying floor tiles diagonally are quite simple and can be done by every owner. But before starting work, it is recommended to further study the thematic video and understand the details of the selection of high-quality mixtures for leveling the floor and gluing tiles.

When choosing a quality adhesive and self-leveling coating, you need to consider the location of the installation. For example, for balconies or unheated corridors, you should buy compounds with increased frost resistance. You need to know in advance about the features of their application and the hardening time from the instructions on the package.

High-quality laying of ceramic tiles diagonally looks good in any room, but the correct choice of the tile used is important. It must be of the same size and quality. Otherwise, a part of the tile with a lower wear resistance can quickly become unusable and crack. And although this technology involves a careful selection of materials and careful work, if all the requirements and recommendations are met, it will not be difficult to achieve a positive result.

Video how to lay tiles diagonally

To create a pattern on the surface of a wall or floor, different tile laying techniques have long been used, depending on its color, size and other parameters. Parallel laying (it is also called basic) is ordinary and simple in terms of work. Much more complicated and costly is its method of laying out in a diagonal direction. But the result is worth it, because the laid out surface has an unusual mosaic view, which is combined with any interior and looks attractive in rooms of different sizes.

Diagonal tile planning

Tile is a finishing material that makes it possible to use an unlimited number of design solutions, taking into account the diversity presented on the consumer market. The tile differs in shape, size, complementary elements, materials, coating. All this makes it possible to make a masterpiece out of even the simplest and most outstanding tiles, to lay an absolutely unique, individual coating.

Advice! You can carry out styling by resorting to several methods. It can be a straight or diagonal method (it is also called a rhombus).

In order to lay the covering in a diagonal direction, you need to rotate the ordinary pattern by 45°. Professionals can lay out almost any kind of design in a diagonal direction, turning it at an angle from 30 ° to 70 °, and there is also the practice of combining two methods - straight and diagonal laying.

In the store, at the stage of purchasing tile material, you need to decide in advance on the scheme with which you will lay the coating. This is a very important point, on which a number of other characteristics depend:

Format and design of the tile surface

If the tile is the same size, even inexperienced craftsmen can lay it. The quality and speed of work, of course, depend on the experience of working with such material, but modular laying is a set of elements that have different sizes and dimensions, as well as shapes that are multiples of each other. Such tiles are laid randomly or in a certain sequence. Such an implementation is laborious and requires experience.

Equipment

This is a quantitative measurement of the tile material, as well as the presence of other auxiliary elements. If monochromatic products are laid diagonally, the coating will look calm, but if you resort to a combination of two or more colors, the picture will change dramatically.

On a note! it turns out bright and organic, but you should use the dominant color carefully so as not to overload the space. The large number of colors used requires even more caution and miscalculation.

At the stage of preparation for work, it is worthwhile to devote sufficient time to the configuration, as well as to carry out calculations.

Calculation of the consumption of tiles for facing

When applying diagonal laying, you will need a considerable amount of facing. Almost all elements laid around the perimeter of the area will be trimmed, but at the same time, you will need almost everything for work.

Advice! For this reason, we recommend purchasing cladding material with a margin of 25% - it will be waste. At the same time, it is better to purchase material with a margin right away due to the fact that later it will be problematic to find the same shade of material that you will miss..

The easiest and really correct way to determine the amount of material that you need for laying is a drawing. You can make it yourself by hand or use the help of a special consultant who will help you determine the amount of material and calculations.

Important! Almost every manufacturer provides sellers of their products with a special program that allows you to calculate the amount of material. It is convenient and saves a lot of time.

Tile laying tools

When laying the cladding diagonally, you will definitely need a set of tools:

• Directly the coating itself for cladding and the shaped elements necessary for it;
• Polymer or cement glue;
• Soil - it will be needed when updating the base;

• Polymer or cement grout for joints;
• A ruler made of steel, a square with a tape measure;
• Level;
• Tile cutting machine. A tile cutter will be needed quite often, since with this laying method you will need to cut a large amount of material. You can rent a tile cutter. It is better to use good quality equipment, this will help you save time and increase the productivity of the work performed;

• Cord for marking the coverage area, as well as a marker;
• In order to mix the solution, prepare the mixer together with the container for the solution;
• Spatula with a mallet for the procedure of mashing seams;
• To align the plates, prepare special remote crosses;
• Knee pads and mounting gloves;
• Cloth, a bucket with a sponge are necessary to keep the workplace clean.

Instructions for self-laying tiles diagonally

1. Substrate preparation for laying tiles. The surface should allow laying tiles from 2 to 15 mm; if the coating is mosaic, the base will be 20 mm. The coating must be dry, clean, smooth, durable.