Self-assembly of flexible tiles, technology and tips. The technology of laying a soft roof made of bituminous tiles: step-by-step instructions Cover the roof with flexible tiles with your own hands

Today, soft roofs not only occupy a leading position in the market, but have become a real discovery for designers and architects. Many styles, individual solutions and the possibility of easy implementation on a roof with a complex structure - what more could you want? The main thing is to achieve absolute tightness between the shingles, on which the durability of the entire coating depends. And the installation of flexible tiles will be within your power, believe me, even if you are faced with this type of work for the first time!

Therefore, if you carefully read our advice, then with the help of one more person you will cover even a large roof area. The fact is that even in the factory, the shingles are prepared for gluing, applying a special solution to the bottom layer, and they even make four holes so that you know exactly where to drive the roofing nails. And now we will tell you about all the intricacies of working with a soft roof.

Once the roof frame is ready, install the vapor barrier as a solid carpet with inside roof, without gaps, and fix to the rafters with wooden planks. On the same strips you will attach later inner lining attic.

Now take care of the vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then all the moisture will come out of it by itself, with the help of natural ventilation. But in the case of a residential attic, vapor barrier is necessary. For this purpose, an additional bar is stuffed on the rafters, rolled out vapor barrier film with an overlap and glued with a special adhesive tape (the usual one does not fit!).

Next, with outer side lay the selected insulation on the vapor barrier film, preferably spaced apart. Cover with a windproof membrane on top and fix with bars, which will also later serve to create ventilation ducts.

As a result, you should get such a “layer cake”, as roofers like to call it:

We have prepared for you a detailed master class on how and in what order everything should happen:

As you can see from the above photos, it was not difficult to lay the flexible sheets on the curved lucarnes!

Step 2. Installing solid decking

For the installation of flexible tiles, a rigid solid base is required. Therefore, on the prepared crate, mount a solid carpet of plywood or OSB boards, with a gap of 3-5 mm, which is necessary for deformation from temperature and moisture, and fix it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.

The main requirement for the base for shingles is a flat area and the ability to fix shingles with nails. For this, sheets of glued wood shavings like plywood or a tongue-and-groove board laid end-to-end are suitable. Only the board should be as dry as possible so that waves do not form during drying. But it is a big mistake to use only the crate itself under the soft roof, albeit more frequent, because already in the first season the entire roof will simply go in waves. And photos with such problems become a real asset for manufacturers who scare their customers with such mistakes.

Once the base is ready, reinforce the cornice overhang with metal strips. These are laid with an edge on the edge of the base and fastened with roofing nails, in increments of 150 mm, in a checkerboard pattern:

Step 3. Selecting and installing the substrate

Now is the time to take care of waterproofing. It is necessary in such difficult places, as abutment, joints and valleys. Here the canvases are laid from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm in the longitudinal and 15 cm in the transverse direction:

We recommend that you use a specially designed underlay rather than roofing felt or similar material as they sometimes do. The fact is that they also have a finishing roofing - different dates operation, and even the terms of use!

And such an attempt to save money will soon lead to swelling of the entire roofing carpet. In addition, no manufacturer will guarantee a roof that uses third-party materials in the pie.

By the way, until recently, lining carpets were practically not used in Russia, and even today many people strive to cheat. This is logical, because by the time the roof is built, it often turns out that the planned budget for the whole house is not enough, and you have to make concessions. But if you want to lay roofing from flexible tiles and forget about it for many decades, then do not give up such an important element.

There is always a risk that water will seep into the roof space, especially in difficult places such as bypassing chimneys or making contact with an installed antenna. There are also emergencies when strong wind lifts the shingles during a downpour.

Moreover, it is not difficult to pick up a roofing carpet, because. it is subject to the same requirements as for tiles: to be resistant to temperature extremes, to provide reliable waterproofing and serve for a long time. BUT modern market provides many options, both imported and domestic. Moreover, many plants in Russia today operate on European equipment and are not inferior to foreign analogues in terms of product quality.

In general, lining carpets are of two types: self-adhesive and mechanically fixed. Self-adhesive ones are laid mainly in valleys, and mechanical ones are rolled out on the remaining area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof and fixed with galvanized nails:

Here is the installation process of a conventional roofing carpet, which will need to be fixed bituminous mastic:

Here is an example of working with a more modern self-adhesive roofing mat:

So, for a valley, a self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is ideal. And, if the slopes have a slope of more than 18 degrees, then consider laying the carpet in all places of possible leaks, and these are: ribs, ridges, gable overhang and all exits roofing elements.

But on a roof with a slope of 12 to 18 degrees, you will need a continuous waterproofing carpet. Prior to this, on the cornice overhangs, we recommend putting a self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material, for example, "Barrier", and at the same time strive to ensure that the carpet itself is without overlap - continuous along the entire length:

Also insulate ventilation passages, areas around skylights and chimneys in advance. Before the installation of flexible tiles, coat all the passage elements with bituminous mastic with your own hands - this is not difficult.

Before you start laying shingles, you will also need to reinforce the eaves. You need to fix them with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm. Here is an informative video lesson from the company on this topic:

Step 4. Selecting fasteners

To fix flexible shingles, you will need special wide-head nails. It will be extremely important to nail them so that the hat is in the same plane with the surface of each shingle, and at the same time does not “crash” into it. In addition, nails for soft tiles must be galvanized.

Nails for mounting soft tiles are divided into the following types:

• Roofing nails. They have such a sharpened point that when deepened into the bitumen layer, they do not violate its integrity. Such nails are produced galvanized or without a protective layer at all. Of course, unprotected ones are the cheapest, but at the same time they are not at all practical and quickly begin to rust. These are only suitable for assembling furniture or building temporary shelters.
• Ruffed nails. On the working rod, they have special cloves that are directed towards the cap. These are not easily hammered into the wood, although it is quite difficult to pull them out even with a nail puller. And most often, in the process of dismantling, they simply cut off the head of the ruffed nails - and that's it. They fix the roofing so firmly that they are more often used for slate than for soft roof.
• club nails have longitudinal grooves and lintels on the working rod, and they are less suitable for soft roofing.

We recommend that you take exactly galvanized ruffed nails with a head diameter of 8-9 millimeters as roofing nails specifically for flexible tiles. They also produce special nails for bituminous shingles, and they differ from standard counterparts.

These are made from durable steel wire, which is automatically cut into equal pieces, then on one side the workpiece is sharpened, and on the other, it is riveted into the shape of a hat. If you see these for sale, you can buy them.

But it is important at the same time that the nails themselves comply with GOST 4030-63: the diameter of the rod is 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the cap is at least 8 mm. The thing is that in working with concrete shingles, the most unpleasant moment is when the nails, at the next blow, simply sink into the bituminous layer and violate the integrity of the coating. But the extended hat will not be able to “drown” so easily. And the larger it is, the better it will hold the shingle, which is why high-quality nails for shingles resemble a pushpin. Moreover, for single-layer and two-layer tiles, you will need nails with parameters of 30x3.5 mm, and for a three-layer one - 45x3.5 mm.

By the way, some unfortunate builders do not understand why it is impossible to simply heat up the sheets of soft tiles and stick them on the flooring, why nails and all the fuss associated with them? In fact, the use of open fire on such a roof is prohibited due to elementary considerations. fire safety. So forget about this risky idea and rent an automatic device.

Step 5 Place the Starting Strip

And now we proceed directly to the laying of flexible tiles. She starts with starting strip. As such, you can take:

• a pattern from an ordinary tile, for example, a shingle with cut petals, if you are working with collections " Tango" or " Trio»;
• universal ridge-cornice tiles, especially if you work with " Chord», « Sonata" or " Jazz».

If it is more convenient for you to start with the eaves shingles, lay them on top of the metal strip, stepping back a little from the place of the inflection. Next, nail it with nails, but keep in mind that the longer and steeper the slope, the greater should be the indent from the bend:

This is how laying the starting strip looks in practice:

Step 6. Installation of different types of shingles

Now let's unpack the shingles. The main requirement for their installation is dry, warm weather, because it is undesirable to lay bituminous tiles at temperatures below + 5 ° C, because. in areas where it will need to be bent, it will be difficult to do without cracks.

If you still have to fasten the shingles in such conditions, then prevention will be needed: the sheets are heated building hair dryer and bend on a metal pipe about 10 cm in diameter. But it's better not to do that.

count up required amount shingles is not difficult: take one sheet, measure the area that will be visible, find out the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope and divide the second by the first. Here is a valuable tip on how to calculate and prepare flexible shingles for installation:

Of course, if you have a diamond eye, then detailed calculations can be dispensed with, but marking lines serve as excellent guides along which you can align the tiles both vertically and horizontally. Especially if you are laying a soft roof for the first time.

Believe me, tearing off a few sheets and attaching them again to fix a jamb is not the most fun thing. And absolutely without marking, if some element is embedded in the roof or the general geometry of the ramp is broken. In this case, you will be helped by such tools as a beating, a plumb line and a level.

As we have already said, for convenience, ready-made shingles are usually marked with small holes at the factory so that you know exactly where to hammer nails. If there are none (for example, the cheapest collections), then just step back 2-3 cm from the edge and be guided by this illustration:

In each case, the place where the nail is driven will directly depend on the shape of the cutting of the tile itself. It is only important that each nail pierces both the lower and upper edges of all sheets at the same time, and if you are laying flexible tiles on slopes with an angle of 45 °, then the upper corners of the shingle also need to be additionally fixed.

The whole procedure for laying flexible tiles is not complicated, here are the instructions for the process itself:

1. Before laying, mix the shingles from several sticks to minimize color variation. The fact is that even in one mail the color can differ so much that you will be surprised, and such incidents will be very noticeable on the roof.
2. If the slope is long enough, start laying tiles from its center and align it horizontally. And the second row - already shifting the shingles to the left or right by half a sheet. Move the third and all subsequent rows relative to the previous one, also half the petal, to the left or right, depending on which direction you chose initially.
3. You need to start laying the tiles on a slope with a smaller slope, while you should enter a steeper slope by at least 30 cm. On a steeper slope, it is recommended to beat off the chalk lines so as not to go astray. Now cut the tiles on a steeper slope along this new line, and after fixing, coat with bituminous mastic where there is no self-adhesive layer on the back side.
4. Lay the tiles from the bottom up, stepping back from the edge of the drips. Here it will be necessary to lay a special ridge-cornice tile. By the way, you can replace it with a regular one if you cut the petals.

Now secure the shingles. An automatic tool is good for this, especially if it works from the mains. Most importantly, when choosing a model, take care of your own safety: trigger mechanism should be comfortable, with protection against accidental shooting and the ability to remove a stuck nail without any risk. After all, usually a hammer is more intended for small household chores, and professional roofers rarely use it.

The only point: if special roofing nails do not fit the gun, take a ready-made clip with nails with a wide flat head. They differ in that they are interconnected by a thin wire. Here such a tape is inserted into the chamber and the nail is fed one by one. This is much more convenient when working at height: no need to look for bunches, no need to put your fingers under the blow, and the fastening itself will be of better quality than when you are already too tired on the 501st nail. The main thing is to follow the basic technology: the nail must be driven in strictly perpendicular to the plane of the shingle.

Remember, if some shingle was fixed unreliably, then over time it will loosen its fastening and fly off with a gust of wind. And the nail itself, lifted from the wind, will tear the sheet, loosening the neighboring one. And all this will lead to leakage and the necessary repairs. Of course, it will not be possible to completely do without problem areas, which is why it is needed periodic inspection such a roof.

Now consider the features of the installation of shingles different types. So, from a single-layer tile before installation, you need to remove protective film, which is always located on both sides of the shingle. Why is she? The fact is that this roofing is transported by ordinary trucks both in the heat and in the heat, but we are still talking about bitumen.

But in collections with such cuts as " dragon tooth”, there is no film, it is only important to choose a beautiful pattern or lay it randomly, simply by mixing the shingles.

And how exactly to work with each type of shingle cutting, the following illustrations will help you:

Further, if you have to work with complex roof, you have two ways of laying shingles: segmented and seamless. In the first method, divide the corner or cone into equal segments, and lay out each of them separately. And in this way, cover the entire roof. The seamless method is already more complicated: here it is important to make correct markup slope and navigate along it. Think and choose the one that seems more convenient to you.

Step 7. Fixing the tiles in the valleys

And now - about the most problematic places of the roof. Valleys, namely the internal bends of the roof, you can organize in two ways: open and closed, which is also called the undercut method. The main thing then is to make a triangular rail at the junction of the roof with the wall and put tiles under it.

In addition, if the wall is brick, it must be plastered and treated with a bituminous primer. Top part the junctions should then be closed with a metal apron, which must be fixed and brought into the strobes, and then sealed:

Step 8. Laying ridge and back tiles

Next, we will deal with the concepts of ridge tiles. As you might guess, these are the shingles that cover the ridge of the roof. All other tiles are called ordinary. By the way, spinal tiles are obtained when the ridge-eaves are divided into three parts, or they are cut out from the usual ordinary by perforation.

To properly lay the back tiles, with the help of a cord, beat off the dimensions of the future ridge - these are two strips along it, and lay the back tiles from the bottom up. Then fix the shingles with nails on each side and make sure that the overlap of the overlying shingles overlaps the nails by 5 cm.

The ridge tiles are laid from the side that is opposite to the so-called wind rose (you can find out about this from your neighbors or from the wind map). Further - everything is the same as during the laying of the ridge. If there is no self-adhesive layer in the right places, coat it with mastic.

Now let's move on to the ribs. Here, ordinary tiles should be cut so that a distance of 3 to 5 mm remains between adjacent slopes:

Here is another great tutorial where you can go over the details of the process:

And finally finishing work. The laying of flexible tiles is always completed by installing a ridge aerator. To do this, a special groove is cut out along all the slopes, and an aerator is inserted into it. It is fixed with nails and covered with specially ridge tiles.

Also, for a soft roof, special additional elements are made - these are the lower parts of the roof passages, which are popularly called "skirts". And so that snow does not accumulate behind the ventilation and chimney pipes, especially when their cross section exceeds 50x50 cm, you need to organize a groove. In short, you will need the following items:

So, your roof is ready, and it remains only to properly care for it. To do this, once every six months, use a soft brush to sweep all small debris from the roof, leaves and branches. The main thing is not to use sharp tools, because it is important not to scratch the basalt chips. And clean the gutters and funnels from time to time.

Luckily, shingle roofing is highly maintainable: just warm up the damaged area, remove it, and lay new tiles. A matter of one day!

Soft roofing is an excellent replacement for traditional roofing materials. Its advantages include low weight, flexibility, low cost, as well as ease of installation.

For laying traditional roofing materials such as asbestos-cement slate, roof tiles and galvanized steel requires several people. The construction of a roof from these materials took a lot of time.

The soft roof is devoid of these shortcomings. In the construction market, it is presented not only as a piece material, but also as a rolled material. Further in the article, we will talk about how to install a soft roof with your own hands.

Soft roofing is also sometimes called bituminous tiles, since bitumen is its basis. However, this material should not be taken lightly. It has practically nothing to do with ruberoid. Soft roofing is a durable roofing material that has long term services. It is much stronger than traditional roll roofing materials.

Bituminous roofing is made using the latest technologies. Therefore, it has many advantages. Such material is resistant not only to high temperatures, but also to low ones.

Soft tile "Shinglas" is produced by the company "TechnoNIKOL". The service life of such tiles is 10 - 55 years. The roof, made of modern soft tiles, does not tear, and also does not lose its properties during temperature changes. During manufacture, all kinds of modifiers are added to the material, which increase its bending strength.

Also soft tile has the following features:

• In the process of making tiles, bitumen is melted with oxygen. Thanks to this, the melting point reached one hundred and ten degrees Celsius.
• Flexible tiles are reinforced with fiberglass. Due to this, the material becomes more durable.
• The composition of the upper layer of the material includes stone dressing. It performs a decorative and protective function.

Obviously, shingles are durable and durable material. It is not at all difficult to lay and operate such a tile. However, in order to properly install a soft roof, it is necessary to carefully analyze the main stages of work.

Shingles dimensions

The soft tile is piece roofing material. Its length is 100 centimeters, and its width is 33 centimeters. The canvas is small, so the laying of this material can be done by one person.

Externally, the flexible tile looks like a classic. Each web of material is divided into four parts. Each part has the shape of a geometric figure.

It is necessary to lay this material on a pre-prepared base. For this, a continuous crate is made. As a material for the crate, as a rule, sheets of plywood are used.

Also, a “carpet” is placed under the shingles, which minimizes the negative impact on the roofing material and provides additional waterproofing.

Preparation of tools and materials

As mentioned above, the installation of a soft roof can be done alone. Before laying, it is necessary to prepare the following materials and tools:

• Mounting knife;
• Mastic;
• A hammer;
• sealant;
• End and cornice strips;
• Master OK;
• Roofing mop;

If the roofing is being laid in cold weather, a gas burner will also be required.

Soft roof insulation

The heat-insulating layer is attached from the street side. It should be noted that the first sheets must be laid between the rafters. However, before that, it is necessary to make a rough sheathing on the inside of the roof.

The optimal thickness of the thermal insulation material is 20 centimeters. Next, the counter beam is installed and another layer of heat insulator is carried out.

The waterproofing layer is overlapped parallel to the roof eaves. The overlap should be fifteen centimeters. Also, approximately 15 centimeters of waterproofing should additionally go beyond the thermal insulation contour. A construction stapler should be used to fix the membrane. Waterproofing joints are glued with self-adhesive tape.

Foundation preparation

The base for the roofing material must be extremely strong. She shouldn't bend. The base can be made from the following materials:

• OSB boards;
• Plywood;
• Tongue-and-groove boards, the width of which is 10 centimeters.

If the base is made in winter, then gaps of 3 mm must be left between the seams of the material. If the base is made of boards, then the gap should be 5 millimeters.

Arrangement of the ventilation gap

Ventilation is very important for the roof of a building. It manages to avoid high humidity and reduce the amount of ice accumulating on the roof during the winter months. Ventilation also lowers the temperature inside the roofing "pie" during the summer months.

Part good ventilation includes the following elements:

• valves that provide fresh air;
• Ventilation outlet;
• Air gap. It should be between the waterproofing and the base of the roof. The gap should be 50 mm wide.

The ventilation area directly depends on the angle of the roof slope. With a roof slope of more than 25 degrees, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe hole should be made 8 square centimeters. If the slope of the roofing does not exceed 25 degrees, then the opening area should be 16 square centimeters.

The importance of a liner

The lining is a special bituminous material. It is mounted around the perimeter of the entire roof.

Laying should be done from the bottom up. You need to start from the roofing cornices. During the installation of the material, an overlap of 10 centimeters is performed. As fasteners, ordinary nails are used. They should be driven in every 20 centimeters.

If the angle of the roof slope does not exceed 18 degrees, then the lining material should be fixed only on the overhangs of the cornices, the ridge, the junction with the wall and near the chimney.

If the slope of the roof does not exceed 12 degrees, then it is not advisable to lay a soft roof.

Fastening the slats

Eaves levels (droppers) fasten on eaves of a roof. They protect the material from precipitation. They can be installed directly on the gasket material. Planks are fastened with an overlap of two centimeters. Roofing nails should be used as fasteners. They are hammered in a zigzag pattern along the entire cornice plank.

Gable strips are mounted on the ends of the roof. They should also be fastened with an overlap of 2 centimeters. Nails are hammered at intervals of 10 centimeters.

After installing all the planks, the valley carpet is laid. This item greatly improves the waterproof performance. It is important to note that the color of the valley carpet must match the color of the roofing. The carpet should be fixed at the edges with nails in ten centimeter increments. Then you can lay a soft roof. Let's consider step by step the technology of installation of shingles.

Laying cornice soft tiles

Eaves tiles should be laid on planks previously installed on roof overhangs. The fixing of the roofing material is carried out by means of galvanized nails. They should be hammered into the bottom and top edge of the material. In this case, the indentation from the edges should be 25 millimeters.

To save money, you can install an ordinary one instead of a cornice tile. However, in this case, you will have to cut out the tiles. To do this, you will need to trim the shingle petals. Laying the material in such a situation is carried out end-to-end at a distance of 20 millimeters from the overhang.

Installation of an ordinary flexible tile

First of all, it should be noted that tiles may differ in color, even if they are from the same batch. Therefore, it is advisable to mix several packages of roofing material before installation.

Installation of shingles starts from the center of the roof overhang. Cloths are stacked on both sides.

It is necessary to remove the protective film from the tiles immediately before laying. Roofing material is fixed with nails (4 pieces for each shingle). If the slope of the roof is more than 45 degrees, then it is recommended to use 6 fasteners.

The edges of the first row of material should recede 10-15 millimeters from the edges eaves overhang. The joints between the tiles are covered with petals.

Laying the second row of shingles is carried out in the same way. However, here the petals overlap the notches of the previous one.

Exactly the same procedure is performed in the valley. First, the shingles are cut in such a way that a strip 15 centimeters wide is obtained, and then the edges are coated with glue by 7-8 centimeters.

Trimming roofing material is best done on a piece of plywood. Otherwise, you can cause damage to the layer below.

Laying ridge tiles

First of all, you need to prepare the scaffolds. They simplify the installation work with the roof ridge.

Installation of bituminous tiles is carried out with an overlap. To fix each shingle, you need to use 4 nails. The overlap of the roofing material should be approximately 5 centimeters. It is important to note that the installation of ridge tiles is carried out only after laying the ordinary.

To get a ridge tile, it is necessary to cut the eaves at the places of perforation. Then you need to bend each element and lay it in a short part along the roofing ridge.

Arrangement of passages and junctions in the roof

Roof penetrations can be made in a number of ways. You can use rubber seals if the hole diameter is small. This method is used for antennas and other communications. Passages for chimney pipes are carried out differently. Heat and expansion must be taken into account here.

First of all, a triangular-shaped rail is nailed along the perimeter of the junction of the roofing and the pipe. As a rule, a rail with a section of 5x5 cm is used for this. Then you need to glue the overlaps of the gasket material with glue and lay it.

It should be noted that the adjoining of the roof to vertical walls performed exactly the same. There is only one difference - the triangular rail is attached along the wall.

Video about the installation of shingles:

Technology of installation of a soft roof from euroroofing material

Euroroofing material is a built-up roll material. He, like shingles, refers to a soft roof. Euroruberoid differs from shingles in that it can be used as a roofing material for a flat roof.

Base for roofing material

Euroruberoid should be laid on a solid and dry base. It must be cleaned of dirt and dust before laying the roofing. The basis can be concrete plates or monolithic floors. But for this they must have a drain and a cement-sand screed.

Also, roofing material can be welded on OSB-plates. The base prepared for laying the roof is processed bitumen-polymer mastic. It is sold in a ready-to-use state or as a concentrate. If the euroroofing material will be laid on the old roofing, then mastic is not required.

You can find out the complete drying time of the mastic on its packaging. Do not lay roofing material ahead of time. Otherwise, the quality of the roof will suffer greatly.

Laying of roofing material should be started from the drain line (from below). This line is parallel to the slope line. For this reason, the flowing precipitation will not fall on the joints of the strips of roofing material.

Euroroofing material laying

The roll of roofing material must be unwound so that there are no folds on it. Then it needs to be tightened properly. To fix one edge of the euroruberoid, it is necessary to heat it up with a burner until the indicator film melts. Then the edge of the roofing material must be glued to the base. When the edge hardens, the unwound euroroofing material will again curl up to a fixed place.

At the next stage of installation of a soft roof, the fusing itself is performed. To do everything right, you must follow the following rules for arranging a soft roof made of euroroofing material:

1. It is strictly forbidden to overheat the roofing material. Otherwise, you will need to purchase a new one. When overheated, the roofing material stops sticking.
2. The finished roof surface should not have voids, black spots and places without a special protective dressing. Roofing, made with high quality, is always homogeneous.
3. We should not forget about the overlap when laying euroroofing material. It must be at least 10 centimeters. As a guide, you can use a special strip applied along the entire length of the sheet of roofing material.

Particular attention should be paid to problem areas of the roof: parapets, ventilation ducts and other elements located on the roof of the building. These areas should be applied roofing mastic, which after drying has the same protective properties, which is ruberoid.

Joints where snow can get in during the winter months should also be treated. For roofs with a large slope angle, snow retainers should be installed. To prevent ice in winter period it is necessary to properly install drips and drainage systems.

The installation technology of a soft roof made of euroroofing material differs from the technology of laying bituminous tiles. However, in both cases, it is necessary to clean the roof from debris and foreign objects upon completion of installation work. Otherwise, the roofing material may deteriorate at the points of contact with these objects.

Video on how to install a soft roll roof with your own hands:

Summing up

Roofing from flexible tiles can be done by hand. To perform installation work, you do not need to purchase expensive equipment. All you need is normal builder's tools. Even the installation of roof aerators does not create great difficulties. The main thing in this business is to follow the safety rules.

It is best to start laying shingles in hot sunny weather. Then the shingles will fuse and create a single surface. Soft roofing will last much longer if you lay the lining material, as well as the hydro- and vapor barrier layer.

Soft roofing is not the easiest to make with your own hands, but not the most difficult either. If you understand the installation technology, then doing it yourself and with high quality is real. As a roofing material, two types of materials are used - rolled and flexible bituminous tiles. They have much in common, but the technology and installation features are different. In this article we will talk about the device and laying soft tiles. It is also called bituminous or flexible tiles, roofing tiles. There are many names, but the same material is meant.

Small flat sheets of flexible roofing material with one curly edge are called soft tiles. It is most often based on fiberglass or fiberglass, but sometimes organic cellulose - felt - is also used. The base is impregnated on both sides with a composition, most of which is bitumen (bitumen-polymer mixture).

It looks like soft shingles on the roof of the bath

The front part is then sprinkled with colored basalt granulate or mineral chips. It is dyed using special technologies, thanks to which the color is not lost for decades. Powder not only improves appearance. It gives the surface increased wear resistance, protects against atmospheric phenomena and neutralizes the effects of ultraviolet radiation.

Sometimes the topping flies off in some places. This rarely happens, and almost always with elements from the economy segment. The defect is easily eliminated with glue and powder of the appropriate color.

The back side over the bituminous layer is covered with:

Soft bituminous tiles have many different colors and shades, also available different forms curly edges: hexagonal, rectangular, rounded, diamond-shaped. There are a lot of types. Some of them are shown in the photo.

Advantages and disadvantages

Flexible shingles are suitable for laying on single and multi-pitched roofs. Due to its plasticity, small size, it is indispensable on the roofs complex shapes: round, domed, multi-slope. This coating looks on buildings of any purpose, the most different styles architecture.

The advantages of flexible shingles include:

It has the following disadvantages:

• Fairly high cost.
• Increased consumption of materials during the construction of the crate (again, increasing the cost of the roof).

Flexible roof device

Soft roofs are suitable for roofs with a slope greater than 12°. At smaller angles, leaks may appear at the joints, therefore, a lining carpet is laid under the tiles with a continuous carpet - a special material that protects the roofing materials from moisture.

The main difference between a soft roof of any type is the use of a solid base or a crate with very small gaps - about 0.5 cm. Otherwise, the system is similar to any other: rafter system, with hydro and wind protection, insulation located between the lags. An exemplary tile roofing pie is shown in the photo.

This is what a shingle roofing cake might look like

There are several options for installing a base for roofing material:

The flexible tile is not affected by fungi and mold, it does not rot or deteriorate. But it is laid on wood, which is damaged by high humidity. Therefore, the wood is treated with antiseptic impregnations. But to ensure its durability, a ventilation system is also needed.

For natural ventilation and drying, leave a gap of at least 5 mm between the waterproofing layer and the base for flexible tiles. Sometimes this requires a counter-batten, to which the base is already attached. Ventilation holes are also made around the entire perimeter of the roof in overhangs. To prevent birds and insects from flying in, the holes are covered with nets.

Mounting

Bitumen tiles are laid on a flat, clean and dry base in several stages. It is necessary to start installation work in the warm season, when the temperature is more than + 5 ° C. Then it will be convenient to work, and the coating will become airtight. The thing is that bitumen under the action of sunlight heats up and fuses with the sheets under it into a single whole. The coating, previously consisting of separate sheets, becomes a monolith.

If the temperatures are low, the bitumen does not warm up. When moisture gets between the elements (precipitation or evaporation), leaks remain, moisture seeps into them all the time, gradually rendering the roof unusable.

There is another difficulty with low temperatures: flexible bituminous shingles lose their elasticity, they are much more difficult to work with and easy to break. Therefore, we wait for warm and dry weather - the humidity of the base is not more than 20% - and only then we begin to lay bituminous tiles on the roof.

Stage one: additional waterproofing

If the roof slope is 12 ° or more, along the roof eaves, in the valleys, at the junction with the walls of the building, on skylights and skates are laid with a special lining carpet. Although the coating turns out to be airtight, in places of the most likely leaks and the greatest accumulation of water, this serves as additional insurance.

Bituminous tile roofing

Almost all companies give an additional guarantee for roofing material if this waterproofing layer is installed over the entire surface of the roof. This option is required if the slope is less than the recommended 12°. In other cases, it is desirable. It is good to use it if the base is made of boards, and not board material: plus, waterproofing will smooth out and hide cracks. It will also improve the heat and sound insulation of the roof.

They begin to roll out the waterproofing carpet from the lower edge of the roof along the entire overhang. At least 5-10 cm of material is left on the sides, it is folded and nailed to the end of the base. The upper edge is fastened with roofing nails (galvanized with a wide hat) every 40 cm. Fasteners are stuffed along the lower edge more often - after 10 cm.

Roll out the second layer on top. With its lower edge, it comes to the first one by at least 10 cm. To be sure, in several places they make marks with chalk or a marker, which they use when laying.

This is what a partially installed waterproofing carpet looks like

At the junction of two rolls or strips, they are laid with an approach of at least 15 cm. The places of overlap are glued with bituminous mastic and pressed, then nailed, in increments of 10 cm.

In places where pipes pass through the roof or adjoin walls, the material is cut so that it extends 5-10 cm onto the wall or pipe.

When passing the valley, the horizontally rolled carpet is cut along the border, nailed along the edge. When the waterproofing is laid and fixed on both sides, from above along the axis of the joint, another piece of waterproofing material is rolled out. It is nailed along with nails, with an interval of 20 cm.

Stage two: installation of end and eaves strips

To protect the cornices and ends, so that water does not flow under the materials, cornice strips are stuffed along the entire overhang of the roof. They are fastened with nails every 10 cm, with one at the bottom of the bar, the other at the top, the next one again at the bottom and so on, moving in a zigzag. Two adjacent planks are stacked with an overlap of at least 5 cm.

The edges of the roof are protected with special strips

End strips have a slightly different shape. They are fixed at the same interval, according to the same scheme. Begin installation from the bottom, moving towards the ridge.

Stage three: laying the valley carpet

There is a special protective carpet for the valleys (places where the roof slopes join) - it is thicker than the protective one, as well as a coating of the same dressing as on the tiles. These places necessarily require careful processing: it is here that big mass water. It is rolled out from top to bottom and nailed in 10 cm increments.

It is advisable to use a valley carpet also in places where it adjoins the walls of the building (if any) and around chimneys. These are also the areas where leaks are most likely.

Stage four: fixing the cornice strip

This material differs from the usual flexible tiles in geometry: it is a flat strip, without a figured lower part. It is the starting one: it rolls out along the roof overhang and forms an even lower edge.

Remove the protective film from the reverse side. The strip is placed with an indent of 1-2 cm from the bend of the cornice strip, laid and pressed. Nailed along the edges and in places of perforation. The attachment points are then overlapped by the following strips - they overlap one another by 5 centimeters.

Stage five: installation of flexible tiles

Packages of tiles are stored indoors or under sheds. Transfer several packs to the installation site. Colors in different packs may vary slightly. Therefore, it is desirable to simultaneously open four or six pieces. When laying bituminous tiles, it is required to take one sheet with each alternately (or fold in a pile, laying alternately). So the roof of bituminous tiles turns out to be more voluminous, while there will be no clearly visible stripes of different shades.

Laying ordinary shingles start from the center, moving towards the ends. The first row is positioned so that its lower edge is flush with the cornice strip. The top edge should overlap it by a few centimeters.

Before installation, the protective film is removed, the sheet is laid on the base. Fasten along the edges and above the cutouts (3 cm above the edge). With increased wind loads in the region, or if the roof slope angle is more than 45 °, they are fixed with six nails: two additional ones are hammered into upper corners. Two adjacent sheets in a row are laid close to one another.

The second and subsequent rows of tiles are positioned so that the ends of the petals (protrusions) are at the level of the cutouts of the previous row.

At the ends, soft tiles are cut along the inflection line of the end plank. The place is glued with bituminous mastic. After gluing, each seam is additionally treated with a sealant.

The valley requires special attention. To prevent the tiles from sticking beyond the fold line, a part of the film is left glued. The excess is cut off so that it remains open lane of the valley carpet is about 15-20 cm. When cutting, a hard material (a piece of plywood sheet) is placed under the tile. This is necessary so as not to damage the waterproofing layer located under the tiles.

From the reverse side of the tile, remove the remnants of the film. The joints with the valley carpet are glued with bituminous mastic, and the seams are filled with sealant.

Stage six: sealing pipe passages

Using round pipes, mount special passage elements. They are available in different diameters for different angles of roof slope.

Under the passage node, the required hole is marked. According to the markup, a part of the base and a lining carpet are cut out. The part of the carpet to which the pass-through unit will be attached is smeared with mastic. It is installed and fixed around the perimeter with nails every 10-15 cm (indent from the edge of the order of 1-1.5 cm).

The stacked sheets of tiles are cut, the edges that go to the passage node are glued with mastic. After laying, the seams are sealed.

In places where brick pipes pass, patterns are made from the valley carpet. Similar patterns are also made of galvanized metal. How to properly make the passage of the pipe through the roof, read the article "How to bring the pipe through the roof of the bath."

around the perimeter brick pipe nailed wooden corner, with a markup of 5 * 5 cm. When laying, a lining carpet is started on it, and then an ordinary tile on top. bottom surface the chimney is treated with bituminous mastic to a height of 30 cm. This height should be a lifting strip on this side. Also, it should go to the bottom row of shingles by at least 15 cm (also smeared with mastic).

Lateral lifting strips run under the tiles. The rear lifting strip is installed last on the bituminous mastic. The height of the rear and side parts depends on the angle of the roof bevel. Top edges the strips are attached with clamping strips, and the seams are sealed with sealant.

Pipe sealing is a rather complicated process

The tile, which, when laying, enters the installed lifting lanes, is additionally smeared with bituminous mastic. The seams are also glued with sealant.

Stage seven: skate

This stage is the final one. The ridge is closed after both slopes are covered with roofing material to the top.

There are two options: some companies have a special ridge tile, others offer to cut ordinary into separate fragments. Then, with a bend along, they are mounted on a ridge on mastic and nails. The second option is cheaper: a package of special ridge tiles costs almost twice as much as a regular one.

Installation is carried out as follows:

• The tiles of the last row should be located at the top at such a level that the nails are covered with ridge tiles.
• Ridge tiles are bent in half and laid on top with an approach to the second side.
• They are nailed along the edges with roofing nails: two on one side, two on the other.
• The next fragment is placed with an overlap of 5-10 cm, overlapping the nails that fasten the previous piece.
• The latter is glued to bituminous mastic.

Everything, the installation of a soft roof made of shingles with your own hands is over. But stayed finishing touch: it is necessary to glue all the seams along the roof overhang, in the valley, in the places of passage and junctions with sealant (check again, and glue where necessary). Then there won't be any leaks anywhere.

There are few requirements for operation and they do not take much time. Necessary:

• Inspect the roof in spring and autumn. If holes and cracks are found, they are sealed with either bituminous mastic or sealants.
• Do not use hard implements when cleaning and removing snow and debris. Brushes are suitable for soft roofing, not shovels.
• Do good system draining water from the roof.

These are all requirements.

findings

We have tried to give as much as possible detailed technology laying soft tiles. Now its installation with your own hands will not be a problem for you. There are no difficulties here, only it is necessary to observe safety precautions when working at height.

In fact, flexible tiles, like other modern similar materials, are a kind of roofing material. At the same time, it, unlike the usual soft roof, also has an attractive appearance. This type of tile is made in the form of tiles, which are called shingles. From one edge they are even, from the other they have a figured cutout imitating a clay original. From the back, the tile is coated with an adhesive composition that allows you to securely fix it on a wooden base.

Flexible tile is convenient in that its laying is easily done by hand, even in the absence of skills and work experience. Each shingle is installed individually. Additionally, they are fixed with self-tapping screws or special carnations. Over time, from the heat of the sun, all the tiles are soldered and turn into a single whole.

Laying technology

As practice shows, now it is flexible tiles that are the most demanded material for roofs. She can easily impose both a gazebo and large cottage, regardless of the steepness of the slopes and the complexity of the design. The only exception is roofs with a slope of less than 11.3 degrees.

At present, products of many manufacturers are supplied to the Russian market. All of them, however, are not very different from each other. Therefore, the problem of choice is limited solely by the homeowner's own preferences.

It should be noted that for all types of flexible tiles there is only one installation method. You don't need to invent your own. The difference lies only in some minor nuances.

On the one hand, many believe that the flexibility of shingles is its main advantage, while many experts tend to see this as significant disadvantage. In general, both of these points of view have the right to life - soft material much easier and faster to lay, because for fitting it is enough to use a knife or a guillotine. Nevertheless, the installation of flexible tiles requires a rigid solid base, for the construction of which the following materials are suitable:

• OSB-plate of the third class of resistance (budget option);
• moisture resistant plywood - FSF type;
• grooved or plain edged board(moisture content not more than 20 percent).

The plates must be laid in a run-up, avoiding the convergence of four corners at one point - this allows you to strengthen the structure. In this case, the edges of the sheet material should fall on the bars of the counter-lattice.

There is no need to fit the plates tightly to each other, on the contrary, a narrow gap of up to 3 millimeters should be left between them. This will allow the entire structure to move freely with alternating temperature conditions and changes in humidity.

The roof is sheathed with boards parallel to the ground in rows. They are laid in a run in situations where one board is not enough for the entire length of the slope. Their ends must be supported on a counter-lattice, secured with at least four nails. The gaps in this case should be slightly larger - up to 5 millimeters, since this type of lumber deforms much stronger than plywood when dried. Also, a damp board often warps if it is poorly fixed.

Ventilation is an important aspect of a proper roof

In addition to protecting the building from rain, care must also be taken to ensure that moisture trapped under the roof escapes freely into the atmosphere. Otherwise, the condensate that collects inside the attic will remain there, and the entire structure will quickly become unusable. In order to prevent this, a special film is used - a hydrobarrier. It allows steam to pass through, but it does not let water in in the opposite direction.

Also, the roof is supplied with special ventilation gaps, called air vents. They allow air to circulate freely under the roof from the bottom up. The channels are formed directly by the counter-lattice and the crate.

A gap is also required between the roof and the insulation, if in attic the attic is being built. Air masses passing through mineral wool, dry it.

Laying waterproofing

This is extremely important point, without which it is impossible to ensure a long service life of the roof as a whole. As a rule, the manufacturer of shingles also supplies its own hydrobarriers to the market, which will need to be used. However, it is allowed to use products of competitors similar in characteristics. A list of suitable materials is often given in the instructions supplied with the shingles.

At the same time, the use of analogues can ultimately lead to unreliable bonding of the flexible roofing material. Completely unacceptable to use polyethylene film or ruberoid. All this often leads to swelling of the roof. In addition, it would not be very far-sighted to use a material as a substrate that is much less durable than upper layer, because shingles can last from 15 to 30 years.

The insulation is laid in two ways, depending on the characteristics of the roof. So, roofs are covered in a continuous way, the slope of which is less than 18 degrees. Waterproofing is sold in rolls. Its strips are applied parallel to the ridge, starting from the very bottom. Each subsequent strip overlaps the previous one (15 centimeters). All joints must be coated with bitumen mastic. In addition, the waterproofing is also attached to the base with roofing studs every 25 centimeters.

Also, additional strips of bituminous roofing material are laid on top:

• on overhangs;
• in the area of ​​junctions with pipes and other structures;
• in valleys.

After that, the ridge and the protruding elements of the roof are again covered with insulation.

Roofs with a slope of more than 18 degrees are only partially covered with waterproofing. With this option, the strip polymer material covered with bitumen, laid along the edges of the roof near:

• gables;
• skate;
• other convex structures.

Valleys and bevels, in turn, are protected in a similar way. Besides, additional insulation laid around chimneys, ventilation pipes and in places where the roof adjoins other architectural elements.

The bituminous polymer strip should have a width of:

• half a meter overhang;
• meter in valleys, so that each side has 50 centimeters;
• up to 30 centimeters in the area of ​​chimneys and other vertical structures interlocking with the roof.

In the latter case, the material must partially bend onto the wall.

Polymer roofing materials that will go to the base must be matched to the tone of the tiles. You should not look for an exact match - this will allow you to focus on the split blocks.

It is also worth noting that the valleys must be covered with a single strip. If this cannot be avoided, it is better to place the joint in the upper part of the roof. The overlap in this case should be at least 20 centimeters.

Tiling

For convenience, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof must be marked with a chopping cord. In this case, horizontal lines are applied every five rows of tiles, while vertical lines are applied in accordance with the width of one shingle.

Next, the actual installation begins. First you need to stick the cornice row directly along the overhang. Such end shingles are sold separately, but it can also be easily made from ordinary shingles - for this, it is enough to remove the curly part from the shingle to get an even strip.

The overhang is pre-supplied cornice plank from tin. The prepared strip of bituminous tiles is glued, stepping back from the edge of the roof by 1 centimeter. The adhesive layer is protected by a special tape - it must be removed. The remaining loose areas are additionally smeared with mastic. Cornice shingles are fastened with nails for reliability. It is important not to skew when driving them - the hat should lie clearly parallel to the counter-lattice.